APRIL 2010 BUSINESS  CULTURE  ENVIRONMENT  POLITICS  SPORTS

The contribution of the Western Balkans to the European future Contents April 2010

Pooled resources Silent poetry 42 oday’s world is too complex for the individual to master each and every aspect of it. So Plečnik’s T there is nothing wrong in admitting that we need to pool our resources in certain areas. This also applies to international relations, and the Veronika Stabej desire for friendship with our neighbours is indeed written Director into ’s national anthem. Together with the hope that we will be able to overcome any disagreement. If, however, disagreements arise, it is important that we are able to sit down at the same table and seek common Around the solutions. Including through informal dialogue. same table sat How to resolve problems is something that was indeed recently demonstrated by Slovenia and , the leaders of neighbouring countries that are spreading the efforts for countries, some good neighbourly relations to other countries of the former of which do not Yugoslavia. On the initiative of Slovenian Prime Minister Borut Pahor and his Croatian counterpart Jadranka Kosor, even recognise what has been termed the Brdo process was recently each other, launched at Brdo pri Kranju. The aim of this process is to while they strengthen cooperation and the resolving of bilateral issues in the European spirit, especially in the light of common recognise that efforts to attain EU membership. “we all need Around the same table sat the leaders of countries, some of each other”, which do not even recognise each other, while they recognise especially that “we all need each other”, especially neighbours. neighbours. Memories of the neighbourhood are not always pleasant, MONTHLY REPORT 14 however. Our interviewee in this issue is Boris Pahor, persons act adopted 04 from Trieste, whose books and testaments from prison camp life draw attention to the injustices done IN FOCUS in to the Slovenian population and humanity as a OUR GUEST: Dr Mikko Kosonen, head of the Finnish Innovation Fund Sitra 06 whole, and he is regarded by many as one of the highest INTERVIEW cultural and moral authorities of the Slovenian nation. Boris Pahor - Slovenian writer from Trieste 14 Pahor has found that neighbourly relations started improving when Slovenia became a state and a member of BUSINESS 06 the EU. Record one billion euros for travelling abroad last year 18 More evidence that what we need is to come together. No one can do it all alone. LETTER FROM AMBASSADOR Nenad Fabijanić, Oskar Kogoj And this is something demonstrated every year by the 20 organisers of at Planica, who sometimes through ART & CULTURE almost inhuman effort succeed in hosting an event enjoyed 22 Boris Podrecca at the National Gallery 22 by spectators and competitors alike. OUR EXCELLENCE Small can be big, Gold Thread 2009 29 SPORTS Rober Kranjec and Jože Šparovec - Slovenian and Canadian Skiing Legend 33 Sinfo - Slovenian information

SLOVENIAN DELIGHTS Editioral Government Communication Office Gateway to information on Slovenia www.slovenia.si Idrijski žlikrofi – a true speciality of 37 Gregorčičeva 25, 1000 Ljubljana Government Communication Office www.ukom.gov.si Tel. +386 1 478 2630, Fax +386 1 251 2312, www.ukom.gov.si Government of the Republic of Slovenia www.vlada.si PEOPLE Director Veronika Stabej Slovenian Tourist Board www.slovenia.info Editor-in-Chief Vesna Žarkovič, [email protected] Slovenian Chamber of Commerce and Industry www.gzs.si Iztok Kovač - Catching the Falcon 39 Editorial Board Albert Kos, Mateja Malnar Štembal, Valerija Slovenian Chamber of Craft www.ozs.si Mencej, Jože Osterman, Polona Prešeren, Andreja Šonc Public Agency of the RS of Entrepreneurship and Foreign CULTURAL TRAILS Simčič, Andrej Savelli, Branko Vidrih Investments www.japti.si Silent poetry, Plečnik’s Ljubljana Photo Editor Veronicca Ditrih www.ljse.si 42 Production Videotop Color Media d.o.o. Statistical Office of the Republic of Slovenia www.stat.si Graphic design Boštjan Krajnc Printed by Mobinet State Portal of the Republic of Slovenia e-uprava.gov.si NATURAL TRAILS 44 33 SINFO is printed on the eco-friendly FSC label paper. The FSC label provides assurance, that paper originates from responsible forest Bela Krajina 44 Jeseničnik Tomo photo Cover management according to the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) standards.

02 April 2010 April 2010 03 Monthly Review

Prime Minister and large economic delegation visit Bosnia and Herzegovina for the first time

the B&H Presidency and the Parliamentary Assembly, and also took part in a business conference attended by businessmen from both countries. During the visit, Pahor stated that Slovenia believes in B&H and its future, and that he therefore seeks to further political and economic contacts with it. Pahor and Špirić described relations between the two countries as good, but the countries continue to hold divided viewpoints with regard to the repayment of the debt to depositors of the former Ljubljanska banka. Ljubljana continues to seek a solution within the framework of succession, while Sarajevo seeks a two-party solution. They emphasised FIRST STATE VISIT BY CROATIAN At the beginning of March, Prime first official visit to that country. They met the significance of the fact that the two Minister Borut Pahor and a nearly 140- with Prime Minister of B&H Nikola Špirić, countries are prepared to negotiate and PRESIDENT JOSIPOVIĆ member economic delegation and four and discussed conditions in the country that they are both seeking opportunities ministers travelled to B&H on Slovenia’s and its accession to the EU and NATO with to resolve the issue. Mateja Malnar n the middle of the month, new Croatian President Ivo Josipović made his Štembal first state visit, to Slovenia. He was received in Brdo pri Kranju by Slovenian President Dr Danilo Erased persons act adopted Photo STA I Türk, who stated after the meeting that Slovenia and Croatia are coming to the beginning of a new chapter in their relations. With a vote of 48 in favour and 30 can obtain permanent residence permits. ‘It is no coincidence The Slovenian president emphasised that this new chapter presents the opportunity to resolve the against, the adopted It also sets out the cases in which citizens remaining unsolved issues and to make progress in the direction of strengthening bilateral relations. the Act amending the act arranging the of other republics of the former SFRY who that I chose He said that a great deal of the credit for the situation is due to the governments of the two countries, status of citizens of from former Yugoslav were deleted from the register of permanent Slovenia for my which last year “made major advances on this path and developed successful cooperation which republics in Slovenia, through which the residents shall be retroactively considered very first state reinforces mutual respect and trust”. Türk and Josipović also expressed support for both governments in state is intending to regulate the status of to have had permanent residence permits establishing a bilateral commission that will review all of the unresolved issues between the two erased persons. and declared permanent residences. visit, since the countries, and for the renewal of the operation of the bilateral commission for economic cooperation. According to Minister of Internal The amending act is opposed by the friendship between The Croatian president said that it is no coincidence that he chose Slovenia for his very first Affairs Katarina Kresal, the intent of opposition, who maintain that the Act will ‘There are still 13,426 the two countries state visit, since the friendship between the two countries has lasted for centuries. the law, in accordance with a series of be used as the basis for the payment of persons who are has lasted for The presidents also dedicated a great amount of attention during their meeting to conditions in the decisions by the Constitutional Court and compensation. The SDS therefore proposed region. According to the Slovenian president, Slovenia and Croatia have very concordant interests, in the spirit of the Slovenian Constitution, various amendments, which would make without official status in centuries,” said which dictate the strengthening of cooperation in the region, and both countries also support closer is to comprehensively resolve that part of the conditions for erased persons to obtain Slovenia and for whom Ivo Josipović. cooperation and the resolution of unresolved issues in the Western Balkans. the injustices endured by erased residents status stricter, which were largely rejected that relate to the revoking of their status by the National Assembly, as the coalition there is no data on their 18 years ago. believed that the proposers’ intention was permanent residence.’ Agriculture Minister resigns The Act amending the act arranging the to use them to neutralise the content of status of citizens of other SFRY successor the findings of the Constitutional Court. the regulation of the issue of the erased In the middle of March, a matter of principle. He made the decision wrongdoing or corruption and expressed countries in Slovenia regulates the status of In the middle of March, the SDS and the persons, which has remained unresolved Milan Pogačnik irrevocably after numerous accusations in connection the hope that he would prove this the erased persons who were denied the right SNS responded by submitting a demand for 18 years. At that time the state is alleged resigned his position as with allegedly questionable procedures through the facts evident in the to supplementary decisions, the majority for the holding of a legislative referendum. to have deleted 25,671 residents of Slovenia Minister of Agriculture, of returning bull mastiffs to their owner documents which refer to the controversial of whom do not have an official status. The demand for the holding of a legislative who were citizens of former republics of Forestry and Food. and allegations that in exchange for allegations. The amending act sets out the conditions referendum was signed by 31 deputies, the SFRY from the register of permanent At an extraordinary session of the support during his interpellation from He decided to resign because after these under which foreigners who were citizens who believe that the Government’s claim residents or transferred them to “passive” National Assembly, the Minister explained the opposition SNS party he promised to events he believed that it was impossible to of other republics of the former SFRY on that the adopted act will not have any records. The erased persons were therefore to the deputies that he is irrevocably support their project of building an aviation continue to perform the duties of minister 25 June 1991 and who still do not have financial consequences is false. deprived of various social rights, many had resigning from the position of minister as museum. He denied any allegations of regardless of his guilt or innocence. permanent residence permits in Slovenia The adopted act is the final stage of to leave Slovenia.

04 April 2010 April 2010 05 In Focus “Today, we saw the political leaders of countries, some of which do not even recognise each other, sitting at the same table,” said Slovenian PM Borut Pahor after the conference ‘Together for the : The Contribution of the Western Balkans to the European Future’, thus stressing one of the major achievements of the event – jointly organised by Slovenia and Croatia – that took place on 20 March at Brdo pri Kranju in Slovenia.

Macedonia, Montenegro, Kosovo and Albania, and the European Enlargement The contribution of the Commissioner, Štefan Füle. Despite the absence of the Serbian President, Boris Tadić, and EU senior representatives, the participants agreed that the conference had been a success, as their attendance alone underlined the event’s main goal, i.e. Western Balkans to to reaffirm the commitment to reform processes and demonstrate an awareness that responsibility for stability and development lies within the region itself. In The Balkan Incentive Fund for addition, the participants discussed initiatives and concrete projects that may the European future Culture – (BIFC) of the European stimulate regional cooperation and integration, since – as suggested by PM Pahor Cultural Foundation (ECF) is an in his statement – this part of Europe has no joint infrastructure projects. Mutual Dialogue as a step towards regional cooperation important instrument that promotes non-recognition is one of the reasons for weak cooperation in the region, and the cultural development at local and Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Alenka Čebular Photo STA regional levels, and has in recent conference alone served to prove that this is the region’s key problem. years brought together a number of he idea for the conference was first proposed at an cultural workers from the region. Joint declaration informal meeting of Slovenian and Croatian prime ministers in Kranjska Gora, on By adopting a joint declaration, the participants reaffirmed their commitment T 13 January this year. Such high-level meetings have often proved that outstanding During Slovenia’s 2009 Presidency of to their respective EU perspectives as well as the implementation of reforms bilateral issues are best resolved at an informal level, through open dialogue. This fact the Council of Europe, ministers of based on EU standards, principles and values. They agreed that the process of highlights the importance of the Western Balkans conference as a method of resolving the countries of the Western Balkans visa liberalisation should continue throughout the Western Balkans region, and issues – introduced by Slovenia and Croatia – and it could become a model for other followed Slovenia’s initiative and agreed called on the EU to keep future enlargement among its top priorities. The issue countries in the region. to abolish tuition fees for students from of the EU perspective is paramount to the region, as it provides the necessary the region on a mutual basis until 2011. Brdo pri Kranju hosted prime ministers from Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, motivation to carry out further reforms and continue to resolve outstanding

06 April 2010 April 2010 07 In Focus

bilateral issues in a European spirit. Highlights from an secrets of all the hydro-electric plants in Of course, the absence of the EU’s most senior officials – apart from the the Balkans. And this advantage was not Enlargement Commissioner – did not go unnoticed. However, this may well interview with Vojko Volk, lost in the years when we literally tried have highlighted the fact that the countries in the region need one another Coordinator for the Western Balkans to flee the Balkans. But in the EU this is at the Ministry of Foreign Afairs, and that the strongest initiatives to strengthen regional cooperation should not always an advantage – especially published in Delo, Sobotna priloga come from within the region, as only this can lead to future stability, economic when EU representatives such as (by Saša Vidmajer // the interview was development and reconciliation both in politics and everyday life. European Union Special Representatives conducted before the Brdo conference In this respect, both hosts, the Slovenian PM Pahor and the Croatian PM (EUSRs) for individual countries or and published on 20 March) Kosor, welcomed the attendance of the President of the Council of Ministers of peace-keeping operations such as Eulex Bosnia and Herzegovina, Nikola Špirić, who came to Brdo despite all pressures are being appointed. We have been he faces. According to the Slovenian PM, Mr Špirić put dialogue first and showed Spain, which is currently presiding contaminated. We have not had a single great political courage and responsibility, which – to quote the Croatian PM, over the EU, has announced a senior representative appointed just Jadranka Kosor – many leaders in the region did not do. conference on the Western Balkans; because we are from the region. This Italy, too, has great ambitions in ambivalent attitude on the part of the EU The Brdo Process the region; we are still waiting for can be upsetting, particularly given our The March conference is said to be the first in the process of re-establishing the decision of the International huge input in terms of finance, personnel cooperation and trust between the countries of the Western Balkans. The presidents Court of Justice in The Hague about and commitment – seven hundred troops agreed to future presidential meetings by adopting the joint declaration. The first Kosovo…This summarises the in Kosovo, for example. This is not fair. ministerial conference to follow this example should be about and international situation in which We want to convince Brussels that it is infrastructure, as these two areas are vital to the region’s future development. Slovenia is organising the Brdo time for Slovenians, too, to be appointed conference. What is Slovenia’s goal? to certain posts in the EU and the Slovenia and the Western Balkans Suddenly, it seems as if there were too Commission concerning the Balkans. Those who have been closely monitoring developments in the Western many initiatives, but at the time when Balkans were not surprised to see that Slovenia was one of the initiators of we began our work – last autumn – we How much expertise does Slovenia the conference; the country has been actively involved in the region in the were afraid that little, or nothing, would have on the Balkans? political and economic spheres, and in civil society. Until recently, its activities be happening about the Western Balkans. The only criterion is what others think. And were largely uncoordinated, but they have now been brought together in the After studying the Spanish Presidency now, after a long while, expertise is again document ‘Guidelines of the Republic of Slovenia’s policy towards the Western plan, we found that there was no particular worth something; we are again being asked Balkans’, which was approved by the Government in March 2010. emphasis on the Western Balkans. We were for opinions and we are receiving answers The document lays down priority areas and measures needed for a more aware of the Italian initiative to organise a to our initiatives, like the Brdo conference. synchronised and coordinated engagement of all interested parties – state, conference ten years after Zagreb, but we Our ambition to re-establish ties that have commercial and other – in the region. The objective is to create a favourable knew that it would have been difficult to been broken has been acknowledged. This environment in the region, with security, stability and the development of organise it there. We had a number of ideas, ambition is supported by the USA and the the Western Balkans being the key priorities for Slovenia and its economy. among others to move the conference EU alike; they know that if we succeed A number of NGOs are active in the Western Balkans, including the Slovenia’s activities in the region are mainly focused on fostering the under the Spanish Presidency from Zagreb in establishing dialogue and cooperation Centre for European Perspective, Foundation ‘TOGETHER’, the Centre development and stability of the whole region. to Sarajevo instead. We can say that the between the countries of the Western for eGovernance Development, the Centre of Excellence in Finance, the Spanish conference in Sarajevo is our Balkans, this could help revive the desire to International Trust Fund for Demining and Mine Victims Assistance (ITF), the Centre for International Cooperation and Development, Slovenia’s top priorities include: idea, and alongside it we proposed the enlarge the EU. SLOGA, all of which were founded by the Slovenian Government. • Strengthening political cooperation with the countries of the Western initiative to have a conference at Brdo as an Balkans, with Slovenia working at the bilateral level as well as within introduction to the one in Sarajevo. We took You once stated that it is hard to be The Foundation ‘TOGETHER’ and ITF are among the most recognised. the EU and NATO to promote the countries’ prospects of Euro-Atlantic the risk of trying to seat at the same table an expert on Balkans. Why do you integration, foster regional cooperation based on good neighbourly all the leaders, including those of the two think so? The Foundation ‘TOGETHER’, a Regional Centre for the Psychosocial relations, and encourage the efficient resolution of bilateral issues. newest countries, Montenegro and Kosovo. I said that because that is what I have Well-being of Children, was established in February 2002 by the Government of the Republic of Slovenia, the Municipality of Ljubljana • learnt from my mistakes. Whenever a Supporting the integration process of the Western Balkans in NATO and other and the non-governmental organisation Slovenian Philanthropy. international organisations, with Slovenia encouraging an ongoing debate How does Brussels see Slovenia traditional diplomat tries to analyse and Today, it is a recognised and well-established organisation whose on the Western Balkans, providing political support to candidate countries, with its ambitions in the Balkans? predict a certain country’s next step, activities and programmes represent an important form of humanitarian and supporting the activities of international and regional organisations Is the fact that Slovenia is part of we say that he/she identifies with that aid and development assistance of the Republic of Slovenia. The International Trust Fund for Demining and Mine Victims Assistance (ITF) which could strengthen reform processes and boost the region’s development. the region a ‘pro’ or a ‘con’? particular country, and calculates the is a humanitarian, not-for-profit organisation dedicated to the eradication Both. Our advantage lies in the fact that costs and benefits of that particular of landmines in South-Eastern Europe (SEE) and elsewhere in the world. In the field of the environment, In the countries of the region, Slovenia we speak the language, that we know the step. More than once I have found that The ITF was established by the Slovenian Government in March 1998 to Slovenia is planning to strengthen is promoting IT support for science, situation in the greatest of details. The the countries in the Western Balkans are assist Bosnia and Herzegovina with its landmine problem and with the physical and socio-economic rehabilitation of landmine victims. Since regional cooperation as part of the education and culture by financing infrastructure in the Western Balkans willing to act in a way that harms them. other countries in the region and SEE also suffer from the landmine the COBISS library information Dinaric Arc Initiative, which will was largely constructed by Slovenian The cost and benefit analysis does not problem, the ITF has expanded its operations, and is now operating system, which may develop into ensure sustainable environmental companies: Iskra knows everything always rely on rational criteria, but also in Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Serbia and development in the Western Balkans. a large regional online library. about the power grid; Litostroj knows the emotional. This is why it is difficult to Montenegro, and is also launching operations in the Caucasus and Cyprus.

08 April 2010 April 2010 09 In Focus

be an expert on the Balkans, and there is no need to try too hard. Effort should be invested in attempting to neutralise OUR GUEST: irrational criteria and internal political Dr Mikko Kosonen, head of the interests, and make way for the logic Finnish Innovation Fund Sitra that we must keep moving on. We have The economic crisis is something recently heard Serbian politicians say that the EU needs – it shows that a if they were pressed to choose between the EU and Kosovo, they would opt for lot of things need to change • Strengthening economic ties with the Western Balkans, also by Kosovo. This is difficult to comprehend. fostering a favourable business environment through creating new, and Since Serbia has neither Kosovo nor Vesna Žarkovič strengthening existing, mechanisms of EU and regional and international the EU. And one would think that the Photo Mateja Jordovič Potočnik organisations; further assistance is possible by attracting foreign investors simple wish to become an EU member and by investing in joint projects that reach beyond national borders. would mean getting both. I remember • International development cooperation, with Slovenia focusing on the my late grandfather, who never got over ow do we ensure development, maintain creation and strengthening of social services and social infrastructure, the fact that he had lost the in competitiveness, make it possible for citizens to use the particularly training the civil service, administration and institutions in which he had lived. Sadly, he did not H existing resources, how do we eliminate bureaucratic good leadership practices and the rule of law as part of their EU perspective, live to see Slovenia join the EU and the obstacles and deeply rooted divisions in society, are only a on business services and infrastructure (energy, environment, etc.), human borders opening, so he could go to Gorizia few of the questions raised at a recent round table by Dr Mikko rights and sustainable development. for a coffee and speak to the waiter in Kosonen, head of the Finnish Innovation Fund Sitra. Slovenian without a sense of fear or At the beginning of March the Finnish Embassy in Slovenia Slovenia has also been closely and successfully collaborating with the countries resentment. This is our experience, which and the Government Office for Development and European of the Western Balkans in agriculture, environment, health care, general security, we would like to share with the Balkans: Affairs held a round table on the structural and development science and technology, culture and intercultural dialogue. that the joint future of Serbia and Kosovo challenges facing society. is where we are now – in the EU; that “Everyone needs everyone” the Kosovo-EU dilemma is not a serious Times are changing and the good old “Everyone needs everyone” was the conclusion of the participants at the Brdo dilemma, or at least, it is not rational. days are not coming back conference. By organising the conference, and more generally through its “The economic crisis is just the tip of the iceberg, there are create as much health as possible. Primary health care must be activities in the region, Slovenia is the only EU member state from the region You do not believe that what major forces in the background that are going to change the significantly improved and reformed in a way that effectively to have provided a model which shows that even fundamental issues can be transpired between Slovenia world completely”, says Kosonen. “Economic power is shifting transfers the focus from treating illnesses to health promotion, resolved through dialogue, openness and trust. and Croatia – Slovenia’s blocking to Asia, not just in products but also in added value. The prevention and early intervention. The patients should be The declaration marks the beginning of a process that will focus on of Croatia’s EU accession – could question arises of how the European countries will respond to stewards of their own health and the better utilisation of infrastructure projects and concrete collaboration from which all people in happen again elsewhere, say this. Our generation is aging, and how we will deal with that information technology in reforming services. Health value the region will benefit. With the declaration, the region sent the EU a joint between Croatia and Bosnia and is an important question. I believe that the economic crisis is can also be improved through specialisation and competition. message that it is ready to take further steps towards European integration, Herzegovina, or Serbia? something that the EU and need, it shows that a lot of Changes and reforms are not a threat, but an opportunity, and that the countries of the region would support one another. Despite the Once Croatia joins the EU, other countries things need to change.” and even a prerequisite for a good health care system. It fact that EU accession depends on the progress of individual countries, joint in the Balkans will receive a very clear “First of all health care. We have to move from reactive to is possible to produce reasonably-priced, high-quality efforts, mutual support and assistance play a vital role in the process. The message, i.e. that settling all outstanding proactive health care, which means that people have to learn services; however, it requires a higher cost, greater quality conference thus represented a dialogue between the region and the EU, which issues with their neighbours is the only to live healthy lifestyles. We have to change the paradigm of awareness, and effective use of new technologies (electronic was established by the presence of the Enlargement Commissioner Füle. The way. We should not forget that Slovenia’s thinking about health. The aim of the healthcare system is to services in particular). We should really improve customer- declaration is also a joint statement to the EU-Western Balkans ministerial door to the EU was opened by Solana’s orientation. Cost control, cost awareness, and productivity scheduled to take place in June in Sarajevo. compromise and the unratified agreement can be increased through pricing policies for municipal between Drnovšek and Račan. Serbia, services, transparency of funding and implementation of the Slovenia and the Western Balkans in figures too, will have to make its way by settling service voucher system and the purchaser-provider models. • Slovenia annually allocates 70% of its bilateral development assistance relations with its neighbours, which to the region; in 2009, this amounted to over €10m (€10,092,049.00), include Kosovo. To hide this pressing fact Sitra – the Finnish Innovation Fund – is an independent while in 2010 this share is expected to increase to 80%. would be irresponsible, and most of all to • Slovenia is participating in both EU civilian crisis management public fund which under the supervision of the Finnish Serbia, which is expecting the so-called missions in the Balkans: EUPM in B&H and EULEX in Kosovo. Parliament promotes the welfare of Finnish society. Since • 378 Slovenian army personnel help maintain security in EU questionnaire containing several ‘The economic crisis is just the its establishment, Sitra’s duty has been to promote stable KFOR units in Kosovo and 25 in the Althea operation in B&H. thousand questions, including those and balanced development in Finland, the qualitative and Slovenia is taking over NATO command in Skopje. pertaining to the size of the country, the tip of the iceberg, there are major quantitative growth of its economy and its international • The Western Balkans is Slovenia’s second most important market in terms number of citizens, towns, villages, etc. forces in the background that competitiveness and co-operation. Sitra´s aim is to help of trade in goods, accounting for 17% of the country’s exports and 6.5% of its And the answers to them will clearly show Finland prosper as global pioneer in systemic changes that imports. According to the , the majority (67.4%) of foreign are going to change the world that Serbia is eager to join the EU alone, generate well-being. direct investment in the Western Balkans is by Slovenian enterprises. without Kosovo. completely”, says Kosonen.’

10 April 2010 April 2010 11 impartial information to support social Križanič, Laura Kakko, Finnish Finance Ambassador to Slovenia decision-making, while developing Minister and testing new operational models and accelerating new business activity. The objectives will be met by boldly looking for different views and promoting innovative operations. The Landmarks Programme develops new methods for identifying, measuring and reinforcing the significance of the countryside in the individual well-being of Finns. The programme promotes the establishment of demand-based services and companies, and the public sector is also challenged to join Industry this mission. The development is based on a human approach, Finnish companies have successfully manufactured machinery catering to the needs and demand of citizens, as well as on and other metal products for the global market. The mechanical regional differentiation. industry has a significant multiple impact on the society. The aim, therefore, is to see the countryside flourish, although Finnish machinery companies have to react quickly to the there is still uncertainty over its future. The countryside needs change in the market. a new, vital and active role. “This branch of industry has a lot of unemployment, and a lot In the future most people will live both urban and rural of jobs are not going to come back after the crisis, and there lifestyles. A study was recently carried out in Finland which is also the problem of the 100,000 small subcontractors that Moreover, increasing initiative and health awareness in the ‘I think that Singapore and South found that the majority of Finns have a lifestyle which is equally work for the large companies. The large companies usually public greatly contributes to preventive health care.” divided between both urban and rural, so they are searching for look for subcontractors in Asia, since it is better to have your Korea are significantly more solutions where people could live in both areas in a way that is subcontractors near the markets. If the subcontractors do Health care policy a major problem all dynamic societies than the rest not exclusive. not join together and combine their strengths and make over the world international connections, they won’t survive. We are helping “In Finland we want to be the most modern country with of the world, in part because Public Leadership and them create new strategies. We help 120 employees with a share regard to introducing innovations into the health care they are managed like global Management Programme capital of EUR 750 m invest in companies if we see that it would system, and we want Finland to be the leading country with companies which have a vision The purpose of the four-year Public Administration Management be promising.” regard to introducing new services and the new technologies Development Programme is to support the public sector in the that accompany them. All of this will create new business for the next 20 years – not just challenges of leadership and management: to create and pilot opportunities. The balance between the public and private until the next elections.’ new management and operating models suitable for the public sectors is not healthy, since we can’t just add more jobs in sector. New kinds of leadership and practices will help improve ‘Dr Mikko Kosonen: I would like the public sector. We have to be prepared for service activities Programme focuses on improving the energy efficiency of the job satisfaction, efficiency and learning to a significant degree. to warn the inhabitants of the to move into private practice. This would definitely increase built environment. Reversing the trend in energy consumption Currently employing over 600,000 people in Finland, the public the efficiency of health care and create new jobs in the private requires motivating consumers to action, as well as the rapid sector must remain attractive. EU that we will not have good sector. This would be a big change,” renewal of the service sector and the “Management in the public sector, i.e. the way that the prospects if we continue in the says Kosonen. entire building and real-estate sector. government and the ministries are organised, is outdated and same manner as we have in They want to create new rules for too hierarchic, slow and rigid,” says Kosonen. “I think that Sitra is currently focusing on five energy-efficient construction, pilot Singapore and South Korea are significantly more dynamic the past. The things that have programmes: Municipal Programme, projects on new ways of living that societies than the rest of the world, in part because they are not proven to be good have to Energy Programme, Growth are more energy efficient, and a new managed like global companies which have a vision for the next Programme for the Mechanical project for rebuilding old houses. 20 years – not just until the next elections. They are thinking be changed, and in doing so Industry, Landmarks Programme and about what they can offer the world, and internal politics is not take on risks, responsibilities, Public Leadership and Management Landmarks Programme the most important for them. They are positioning themselves in short work hard, change the The objective of the five-year globally; they have made rapid progress and have developed Energy Programme Landmarks Programme is to very successful management programmes. In Singapore, civil country … small countries have Because of the challenges involved increase the well-being obtained by servants are educated in government schools, where they meet an advantage here. I would like in the production and more efficient use of energy, Finland Finns from a renovated countryside and to strengthen the employees in the private sector and discuss national interests. needs to create new innovations and agility in responding to significance of the countryside when developing commercial In Finland the ministries are highly autonomous and do not to encourage them not just to these challenges communities use almost as much energy as and social operational models aiming to achieve sustainable always function very well with their environment.” follow the rules of the EU, but industry. Energy saving poses a major challenge for companies, development. also to lead the way themselves.’ the public sector and consumers. The five-year-long Energy The Landmarks Programme provides and disseminates Growth Programme for the Mechanical

12 April 2010 April 2010 13 Interview “I was saved by love” BORIS PAHOR The key moments in the life of the Slovenian author from Trieste were living in Nazi concentration camps, the pain and paralysis that he experienced upon losing the Slovenian language in the occupied zone in Trieste, the confusion of post- war Trieste and the always-fresh, constant theme of Pahor’s writing – love. Neva Zajc Photo Dare Čekeliš

Mr Pahor, your story begins in Croats, in Europe in the 20th century. This me. My perspective on Trieste was Trieste, the city of your birth, area had to become Italian, for good or ill. probably worth something. The decisive where it continues to this day. Do moment was when I was accepted by you have any happy memories of It’s clear that this period affected you Edvard Kocbek, who later became a great the city from your childhood? deeply and awakened the stirrings friend, a virtuous man and a man of letters I have few happy memories. I remember of your national consciousness. who understood me and supported me, the sea and swimming, and when we got When did you first become aware one of the few people who was interested sunburned and were as red as lobsters. that you were Slovenian? in people on this side of the border. Quite a bit of time passed before I realised In conversation you always mention who I was. It happened at the seminary It was an exceptional, cruel, but the first sad sight, the burning of in Koper, where I made friends who were nevertheless important period in your the Slovenian Cultural Centre, which much more sophisticated. The trauma life, which you have written many books deeply affected you even though of my youth had affected me deeply. I about, including Necropolis, which is you were just a seven-year-old boy. couldn’t find myself. It wasn’t just a now being read by all of Europe. You I can still remember the flames that night question of national consciousness or wrote them because of the experiences in 1920. But it wasn’t just the Cultural identity. I was a bit lost in secondary that you shared with many other Centre; the fascists also burned internees in the concentration the one near sv. Ivan (St. John), It is hard to explain how camps. How deeply did this then the one in Rojan, Barkovlje, it is possible that this experience affect you? and the printing shop. I don’t could have happened to I was deeply affected by the remember everything, but the us, around six thousand proximity of death and the atmosphere was miserable. destruction of humanity. I was Lorries careened through the inhabitants, Slovenians and lucky to avoid being a labourer in villages. I remember screaming. Croats, in Europe in the 20th the tunnel, where I didn’t last long Like a storm had come. The worst century. This area had due to illness, but also because thing was that they destroyed to become Italian, they knew I was a Slovenian and our institutions until the Fascists for good or ill. spoke several languages. They came to power in 1922. Then appointed me as an interpreter they began abolishing our schools and school. My Koper schoolmates were much and I stayed in the barracks, so I didn’t have associations. It was the beginning of more self-confident, they predicted an to go out on roll call in the rain and snow. the end of every form of Slovenian life, uprising and I gradually realised that I was That was my salvation. I suffered less than economic and cultural, and the right one of them. I read Slovenian literature and the other prisoners. When they emptied to Slovenian schools. They abolished became a normal person who knows what the camp and sent us on to Dachau - I Slovenian first and last names. All of he wants and struggles against fascism. was among the three thousand or so the inhabitants of Friuli-Venezia Giulia whom the Home Guard sent to became Italians. This is a historical case What stimulated your desire to the camps - I got lucky again. I became an without equal in Europe. It’s difficult to write? It happened after the war, orderly and stayed with the sick patients understand today. When I explain what when you began writing in earnest. in the barracks. I probably contracted happened to us in other countries, how my I had already begun to write before the war. tuberculosis there, which I was treated wife Radoslava Premrl became Francesca I started trying to write when I discovered for after the war, but I was protected from Premoli, they simply don’t get it. It is Slovenian literature. Since I was educated the outside world, which was very tough, hard to explain how it is possible that in Italian, my Slovene was poor. I sent especially during the winter, when the this could have happened to us, around my writing to the publisher in Ljubljana. temperature would fall as low as twenty six thousand inhabitants, Slovenians and They corrected me, but they didn’t reject below zero Celsius (-4 ºF). It was difficult,

14 April 2010 Interview

and the hardest part was the destruction The relations began to change only when had nothing to do with that. It was simply though they didn’t fight with weapons. one of those whom during fascist times What are you telling us about it? of humanity. Trainloads of people were Slovenia became a country and joined the a question of ethics. History forgets these poor people, the were called “sciavi”, when we were without I have already mentioned that I was saved sent to their deaths. The twentieth century European Union. Today we do not have nearly four million people who died in the a culture and without a language, a second- by love, while my fellow internees were was a century of destruction, Fascism in those extreme divisions between people. Once again you showed your camps. I pay my respects to them because class nation; looking back now, it is a great committing suicide, many of them. From Italy and Spain, Nazism in Germany, and Some circles in Italy have realised that rebellious side. they deserve it. satisfaction. A nation who they considered my experience and my belief I have always on the other hand Stalin, who eradicated they have to accept the Slovenians and That wasn’t rebellion. It was allegiance to a peasants, ignoramuses, barbarians, is now repeated that the only thing which is good millions of people in the name of Marxism take them into account. But Rome still certain natural human ethic. I don’t think Clearly you were accepted in and which remains good in people or communism. The whole of Europe was makes the decisions about Trieste. that I’m a rebel. When I was interrogated by France long before you were is love. It means to save your involved in this enormous slaughter. This the SS I trembled with fear that I would give accepted in Italy, where you existence as something beautiful. I cannot forget. You always fought for the rights away my fellow prisoners. I’m not a hero. I live. How do you explain that Love and respect for the other, of minorities. How do you see the tried to be true to that which is truly shared recognition at home came so the body itself, which you must A lot of people say that you are a situation of minorities today? by humanity, which has to be taken account late, that you gained it in your not afflict with misfortune. It is rebellious person. Did you write because Many years ago I founded the magazine of regardless of one’s world view or faith. later years and that several also sad that the fruits of love, our of this rebellion? Did you write because Zaliv (The Gulf, as in the Gulf of Normal relations between people. Life has decades passed before you were children, again sometimes fall into someone had to describe the slaughter, Trieste, t.n.), since I did not accept any been good to me. I had my own magazine, finally translated into Italian? misadventure when they have to because you wanted to bear witness, dictatorship, neither Italian nor German a few supporters and people with similar It was because of a policy that was become soldiers and cause more or did you write because you had to nor Yugoslavian. With Zaliv I wanted to views. Today nobody remembers Zaliv, not not favourable towards Slovenes. misfortune. It seems to me that process the experience internally? encourage discussion of the problem of even historians. I didn’t cross the border When I sent my manuscripts, the humanity has yet to find a way for It was both. The need was born in the minorities throughout Europe, beginning into Slovenia until 1981. publishers didn’t know who I was. something to be borne of love that seminary, when I found myself and I with our question. This was not a ghetto, So the French translation was The twentieth would then live without violence, felt the need to validate myself through as some critics claimed, but a need You love France. You said that you were published first, due in particular to century was a century of the deprivation of freedom and writing. It was similar in the camps. While to resolve the national question, the reborn there. You experienced love the efforts of my friend Evgen Bavčar, destruction, fascism in Italy similar injustices that happen all I was recuperating in the sanatorium in question of our minority in Italy, which there, which has always been who lives in Paris and who set out and Spain, Nazism in Germany, the time all over the world. Paris I wrote notes so I wouldn’t forget. I seemed crucial to me. The former regime important in your life. to get Necropolis published, and kept writing them when I returned home did not understand this. I was interested I always liked the French language. the Guillaume de Roux publishing and on the other hand Stalin, What about nature? That is to Trieste in 1948. in Sloveneness. I published the magazine Knowing French also helped me to house, who received the manuscript. who eradicated millions of another one of your loves… In Trieste I published my work in the for 25 years. The issues are unresolved to become an interpreter in the camps. My The Italian publishers probably people in the name of Marxism Nature is also unfortunate. We magazine Razgledi (Perspectives). I wrote this day, coming to terms with the Italian French improved in the sanatorium. And mistakenly believed that I was writing or communism. The whole despoil her instead of loving her. sketches about the camps. A collection population and with Italian culture. The they took me in as one of their own, as about fascism, about which Italy is of Europe was involved in We destroy the human body, of short prose was published in 1948, situation in other places is similar. they treated for two years at their own not aware. They are just discovering it which is the fruit of nature. This is which included three of mine. Twenty cost, as if I had been French. France saved me now. When the atmosphere in Trieste this enormous slaughter. a major sin against nature. What years later I went back to the Struthof Mr Pahor, how did you feel when and became very dear to me. I was educated changed slightly, some individuals This I cannot forget. we are given is not enough; we are concentration camp in Alsace, and that’s the Yugoslavian authorities put a in Italian, but culturally I am closely began talking and writing about constantly looking for new ways to where Necropolis was formed. There was a “persona non grata” stamp in your connected to France. Despite my age they me. The novel The Villa by the Lake was also garnering recognition and being preserve our humanity, but what happens need to bear witness, but there was also a passport, when you couldn’t cross the gave me a stipend, and I went to work with published and my name gradually began to treated as equals. It is both a personal to nature is all the same to us. The world need to write about what I experienced. It border into Slovenia, which happened a translator, edit my manuscripts, and I appear. I was later nominated for the Nobel and a national satisfaction. When I spoke goes on according to its own will and the was also a form of redemption. How many because of your support for your friend spent more time in France than in Prize, Necropolis was named book of the year about Necropolis on that television show desire for profits, but finding a solution for of my fellow deportees met with sad ends and role model Edvard Kocbek? Trieste. When my books were published in Germany, and Slovenian newspaper critics last year, and about fascism as a prelude the consequences, pollution, for instance, after the war due to their inability to return I was ashamed that the government in French I received a lot of attention, also awarded me prizes. Meanwhile Slovenia to Necropolis, our people in Trieste cried, is avoided by many leaders. They don’t care to a normal life. We expected a new life, but prevented my entrance into Yugoslavia, made several presentations and had joined the European Union, and I since it was an opportunity for me to what it will be like in twenty or thirty years. we were disappointed in many respects. and Slovenia. It was Kocbek who was conversations on radio and television. gradually began to receive more attention. speak about fascism and to greet them convicted. But they also attacked me, They never treated me like a foreigner, Necropolis was finally published in Italian in Slovenian. Unfortunately we have not Boris Pahor was taken from Trieste to What was Trieste like when you returned? and the writer . However, I even though they knew that I was from as well. The Italian press now cover me experienced this officially, as the Italian Dachau in February 1944, and remained Trieste was chaotic. While I was was glad that Kocbek had made up his Trieste and a Slovenian. I still receive every time I publish something. A big shift authorities have not yet given us that there for 15 days. recuperating in Paris I met a French girl mind and condemned the treatment of invitations and they are a great honour occurred after my appearance on Italy’s satisfaction, although they should. The He was then taken to the Natzweiler who liked me. I experienced my return to the Home Guard, whose lives were taken. to me. number three television network. For the last Germans have admitted their guilt, but Struthof concentration camp, where he life there, with her. I was not happy about Things could have been settled differently year or more I have been receiving invitations the Italians have not done so, at least remained until September 1944. going back to Trieste, although they were after the war. Kocbek condemned that You love to visit Paris and you from all over to speak to young people not in relation to us, the Slovenians From Natzweiler Struthof he was taken eagerly awaiting my return. Trieste’s fate action on behalf of everyone who entered always visit the Memorial of the and others. It took a long time, as we are and the Croats, who suffered the most back to Dachau, and then to Mittelbau-Dora was uncertain. The political battles and the national war of liberation with the Deportation. Is there a special reason? talking about books that I published in the under fascism. In this regard we are in a and Bergen Belsen, which was liberated divisions lasted nine years. The Slovenian understanding that it was a pluralistic For me, the Memorial is a shrine in the seventies. Slovenian literature, whose home position that is not at all promising. by the Allies in April 1945. national question was pushed to the side. movement. It wasn’t that terrible for me, centre of Paris where I go to pay my is in Trieste, is becoming known today. After the liberation he began travelling to it was sad, but I accepted it. The Party at respects to my friends who are no more. I Love is a constant theme in your Paris, where he arrived on 10 May 1945 at the How would you describe the relations the time accused us of having changed see the visits as a duty, since these people Is that your greatest satisfaction? work; it appears in all of your novels Red Cross sanatorium in Villiers sur Marne, between Slovenian and Italian Trieste? sides and joined the Home Guard, but it also gave their lives for freedom, even Of course, the fact that I am recognised, and was also your personal beacon. where he was treated until Christmas 1946.

16 April 2010 April 2010 17 Business

Kajfež Bogataj, an ecologist who was part of the possibility that the Government would have to Record one billion team that received the Nobel Peace Prize with issue an approval in the case of a sale. This is American Al Gore, the Slovenian Government supposed to be an additional safety net. has pushed the problem of greenhouse gases Numerous Slovenian companies and their euros for travelling aside too much to date. The Government has employees have also received special safety established a special office, according to Dr nets in the last few months. According to labour Kajfež, but she had hoped that the office would minister Dr Ivan Svetlik, the Government, or his abroad last year have farther-reaching competences. She stated ministry, has assisted nearly 1 500 companies Vesna Bertoncelj Popit, Delo Photo STA that Slovenia’s strategic element is water, and with around 85 thousand employees through in her opinion they should already be thinking partial subsidies of full-time employment and hile Slovenia’s gross domestic product fell about emphasising water as a brand and partial compensation of laid-off employees. The by seven per cent last year, this year it is expected to surviving with it. Dr Kajfež opposes the new ministry estimates that their measures have W rise by one per cent. This means that Slovenia will block at the thermoelectric plant in Šoštanj Dr Lučka Kajfež Bogataj saved at least 26 thousand jobs. need a few years to return to its 2008 GDP level. Some people are for ecological reasons and says that if she had Ecologist According to data from the Employment comparing last year’s fall in GDP with the drop after the breakup the choice, she would support a Service of Slovenia the number of the former Yugoslavian market and Slovenia’s independence. new block at the ‘According to Dr Lučka Kajfež of registered unemployed The economic outlook for 2010 is also not very optimistic. plant, since there is evidence persons in Slovenia is currently Analysts have determined that Slovenia can expect economic that the only countries, that Bogataj, one of the causes of remaining slightly below one growth only from exports this year, as neither domestic have managed to reduce the excessive consumption of hundred thousand, although demand nor investments are expected to generate growth. greenhouse gases, are those they had forecasted that However, most of Slovenia’s largest exporters, who due to the with nuclear energy. According energy in Slovenia is spatial that figure would be reached economic crisis posted significantly poorer results last year (like to Dr Kajfež, one of the causes planning, which is strongly by the end of last year. The the majority of the world’s multinationals), are not expecting of the excessive consumption unemployment level according to see export growth in 2010. Medium-sized enterprises, which of energy in Slovenia is spatial influenced by Slovenia’s to the International Labour were not as deeply affected by the crisis last year, are more Postojna Cave planning, which is strongly local self-government, with Organization’s Social Security optimistic, in some cases because the crisis appeared as early influenced by Slovenia’s local Inquiry was six per cent in as the end of 2008 and more or less subsided last year, so that purchasing power last year strongly affected leasing companies, self-government, with its 200 its 200 municipalities and December of last year, while this these companies have the means and the strength to invest in which emphasised the fact that they are making payment municipalities and mayors, mayors, and the same number year it is expected to be slightly development and increase their competitiveness. agreements with customers having payment difficulties, but and the same number of spatial of spatial plans, industrial higher. The service sector, which in did not comment on the fact that plans, industrial zones and Employees are extremely the opinion of some experts new leasing contracts are down other ideas. zones and other ideas.’ dissatisfied with the changes drifted into the crisis with some ‘The European Investment significantly, which means lower New environment minister that the Government intends to delays, is even less optimistic Bank approved 538 million revenues in future. Dr Roko Žarnić has also placed concern for water make to labour legislation, which will shorten this year. The most significant Owing to last year’s decrease among his priorities and believes that the issue the period of notice for redundancies to just in this perspective is difficulties euros in loans for Slovenia in both exports and imports, of landfills is very important in Slovenia, but one month and reduce severance pay for laid-off in construction, as the majority last year, and a total of two Slovenia’s current balance of is also overblown. Dr Žarnić also expects that workers. The trade unions state that the labour of construction companies are payments was substantially negotiations over Italian oil terminals on the legislation is supposed to protect workers facing illiquidity, particularly billion euros since 2005.’ better than in the past few years, will continue and that it will be and are not satisfied with the Government’s construction companies whose when foreign trade deficits led to possible to reach an agreement, since if not, bargain: higher minimum wage but faster firing. lines of business include the construction of large amounts a current deficit of over EUR 1 billion every year, while last year Slovenia will report Italy to a European court. Students are also highly dissatisfied, since the of apartments on spec, which are selling poorly during crisis it was only slightly over EUR 200 million. The huge difficulties of the Koper company Government has limited and levied additional times. The fast-growing economy and bank loans in past years Last year the European Investment Bank approved EUR 538 Istrabenz, which expanded its lines of business taxes on student employment. Students used the caused these companies to grow too quickly. It seems in fact million in loans to Slovenia, and a total of two billion euros into a wide variety of areas, are threatening to money earned by working during their studies that Slovenian contractors evaluated the market poorly, as since 2005. The largest share of its business in Slovenia last year force the sale of the Slovenian subterranean to cover the high residential costs, since there is they are also having a lot of problems with luxury apartments, was conducted with the Slovenian export and development gem the Postojna Caves and Predjama Castle, Dr Roko Žarnić, never enough space in the student dormitories, since in Slovenia people who have a lot of money tend to build bank (SID), which allocated a little less than half of those funds which has incited the Postojna economic Environment Minister and also used the money to purchase meal houses with all of the luxury conveniences, and not buy flats for projects, intended to reduce emissions. sphere to collect funds for the purchase of coupons. The students believe that now only in blocks. Owing to the taking effect of a law which levies a special tax the concession, as they would like the Postojna Caves to wealthier students will be able to afford to study. On the other Trade revenues were also down significantly last year, which on motor vehicles that cause higher amounts of pollution, the remain in Slovenian hands after the expiry of the concession. hand the Student Services have a large amount of funding, was particularly noticeable in mail-order and internet sales, prices of the majority of cars increased in Slovenia, while the Although the Government states that the current concession which they invest in various things. The Government believes and owing to the reduced number of foreign guests the crisis prices of a smaller number went down. for managing the cave, which was extended two years ago for that companies avoid hiring young people by hiring students, also strongly affected tourism. On the other hand Slovenians Environmental warnings in Slovenia are also becoming a period of twenty years, has not generated bad experiences, and that the new regulations, which would also count student continued to travel abroad in great numbers, as foreign travel increasingly serious. On one hand, some companies have a possible sale, which has allegedly generated some interest work as employment, will be to the students’ advantage and figures last year for the first time exceeded one billion euros. not yet met European environmental standards with regard in Italy, could change the conditions. The Ministry of the those unemployed persons will also be able to apply for so- On the other hand, and lower household and commercial to reducing environmental pollution. According to Dr Lučka Environment and Spatial Planning is therefore studying the called “small jobs”.

18 April 2010 April 2010 19 Art & Culture Plečnik’s Ljubljana in Budapest, Franc Days of Comedy in Celje Novinc in Brussels Last month Celje raised the curtain on the 19th edition of Days of Theatrical Comedy, an At the beginning of March, an exhibition of photographs of Plečnik’s event that always manages to cheer the city up during the slightly melancholy winter season. works in Ljubljana opened in the foyer of Budapest Castle, one of Jože Osterman Photo STA the most prestigious and most visited exhibition spaces in . Jože Osterman Photo Brigitta Soós, STA he programme included 12 author of the text was the dramatist, comedies chosen by selector writer and director Vinko Möderndorfer, he exhibition consists of 30 In Brussels, Anita Pipan, the Slovenian T Tatjana Doma: eight of them in the without a doubt one of the most original beautiful photographs by Stane Jeršič ambassador to Belgium and Kris Peeters, competition programme and four in the and prolific Slovenian literary artists who, T which present, through the interplay Minister-President of Flanders, opened a accompanying programme. incidentally, has now won the Comedy of sunlight and shadow, details of Plečnik’s retrospective exhibition of works by the Celje’s comedy festival is also known Pen at the Celje festival for the sixth time. most interesting architectural heritage in well-known painter Franc Novinc, who is for the biennial Comedy Pen award that The festival was opened by the comedy Ljubljana. The exhibition has previously also a professor at the Ljubljana Academy goes to a new comedy chosen from Krpan vs. Brdavs, a production of the KULT been shown in Malta and in Cyprus in of Fine Arts. Novinc’s landscapes, for anonymously submitted manuscripts. Cultural Institute. This was followed by the context of Plečnik Year (2007) and the which he won a Prešeren Fund Award, This year an impressive 13 works were productions from Narodni Dom , Slovenian Presidency of the European have long formed one of the more submitted and the winner chosen by SNG Drama Ljubljana, SLG Celje, the Union (2008). The opening was attended interesting series of works in Slovenian the jury was Nežka se moži (Agnes , Koper Theatre, SNG by a large number of people, among them painting. This well-organised exhibition Gets Married). This comedy for three , the Prešeren Theatre Kranj attendees of the Slovenia-Hungary Business is a further demonstration of the excellent actors, which is tied to one of the best- and the Kikinda National Theatre from Forum. The exhibition was opened by relations between Slovenia and Flanders, known situations in Slovenian comedic Serbia, a selection that proves that comedy

Gábor Tamás Nagy, mayor of the First which in recent years have exchanged a Vinko Möderndorfer, dramatist, literature, impressed the jury with its keen is by no means an underappreciated District of Budapest, and Darja Bavdaž Kuret, number of projects in the economic and writer and director sense for theatrical situations and, above genre in Slovenia’s theatres and that the Slovenian ambassador to Hungary. cultural spheres. all, its extraordinarily rich language. The most theatres are careful to find room following day it was revealed that the for it in their repertoires. Boris Podrecca at the National Homage to a literary great n February, Cankarjev Dom in (on the left) and In this context, it was Gallery Jože Osterman Photo STA Ljubljana hosted a fascinating Kajetan Kovič touching to hear Kovič’s I symposium dedicated to one of contemporary and friend, oris Podrecca is without a to be one of the highlights of the artistic Slovenia’s most prominent poets, Kajetan the great poet Ciril Zlobec, doubt one of the most recognisable calendar in Slovenia this year. Kovič. This prolific poet, perhaps most talk about the times in which B names in European architecture Podrecca (born to a Slovenian father familiar to younger readers as the creator Kovič, Pavček, Menart and he today. This is demonstrated not only by from Trieste and a Herzegovinian of Maček Muri (Mury the Cat), celebrates himself introduced brand- the large number of projects that he has mother from Mostar) is an incredibly his eightieth birthday next year. But new elements to Slovenian completed in recent years for various multifaceted architect. The exhibition there is still a huge amount of material, the main reason for this symposium on poetry with the collection clients and the fact that his architectural includes photographic documentation as the extensive exhibition catalogue also his work was the publication of a new Pesmi štirih (Poems of the studio is one of the busiest in the world, of already realised works, competition shows. collection of poems entitled Vse poti so Four). Two other poets, but also by the numerous awards he has entries and winning projects that are yet In recent decades Podrecca has left his (All Roads Are). This collection includes and Fabijan received for his solutions, in which his to be realised, various sketches, drawings, mark not only on Vienna and but works from Kovič’s poetry collections Hafner, the latter a Slovenian successful synthesis of the new and the old, notes, freehand drawings, posters, and also on Ljubljana and Slovenia, while he dating all the way back to 1948, as well as from Austrian Carinthia, by no means an easy task in architecture, is travel sketches from journeys through has also been a very strong presence in 40 poems previously only published in contributed selected readings particularly admired within the profession. Asia and the Middle East – in other words the Eastern Adriatic area, where he has magazines. The symposium thus became and cogent analysis, while This celebrated Slovenian architect is now an enormous mass of everything that his realised or is in the process of realising a a good opportunity for participants to Boris A. Novak discussed coming to Slovenia’s most important lively mind has encountered on his many large number of projects. These are not remember one of the most fertile periods the form of Kovič’s poetry, exhibition space – the National Gallery – journeys. Since the National Gallery does merely building projects but, more often, for Slovenian poetry, which in 1948 began describing his poem Južni with a major exhibition presenting, among not have unlimited exhibition space, the comprehensive town-planning projects, to free itself from the grip of socialist otok (A Southern Island) as a other things some of his most recent architect has restricted himself to his work many of them in the historic centres or realism and start out in a new and true masterpiece of classical projects. The Podrecca exhibition promises from the 1980s to the present day. Even so, streets of old towns. distinctly individualistic direction. poetry.

22 April 2010 April 2010 23 Art & Culture member jury was appointed to choose the best production at the festival, along with a five-member jury responsible for selecting 12TH FESTIVAL OF the best Slovenian dramatic work staged or written in the past year. DOCUMENTARY FILM The Slovenian Drama Week has always striven to present foreign productions of The 12th International Festival of Documentary Film took place works by Slovenian dramatists and this in Cankarjev Dom in Ljubljana from 24 to 31 March. year’s international festival programme is even more extensive than in past years, Albert Kos Photo www.fdf.si featuring five productions from abroad: the Theater im Keller from Graz in Austria he eight days of the festival took part in the festival with its production programme saw the projection of Evald Flisar’s Uncle from America (Onkel T of 64 films, divided into five aus Amerika), the Théâtre de l’Oriental categories, the largest of which was from Vevey in Switzerland performed the last: a retrospective of Bosnian Dragica Potočnjak’s Alisa, Alice, the Tristan documentary films covering 44 titles Bates Theatre from London and the and functioning as a thematic review Hercegnovsko Pozorište from Montenegro of the development of Bosnian short both staged versions of Saša Pavček’s Aria, documentary filmmaking from the early and the Al-Ghad Theatre (National Heritage 1950s to today. Theatre Company) from Cairo in Egypt The other four festival categories, performed Evald Flisar’s Antigone Now. consisting of five films each, The festival’s international programme encompassed a wider international is therefore an important indicator of the thematic selection of feature-length Slovenian playwrights and plays that have documentary films prepared by been most successful recently in breaking Simon Popek, the director of the film onto foreign stages. programme at Cankarjev Dom, with a Accompanying the festival were three particular emphasis on the competition drama workshops, the organisers of which category consisting of five films on the aim to encourage young writers of plays theme of human rights, where Cankarjev Nataša Posel Simon Popek in Slovenian and in this way contribute Dom, as the organiser of the festival, to the further development of Slovenian has been collaborating with Amnesty included five films (two American, two films as an important way to raise people’s SLOVENIAN DRAMA drama. The key workshop this year was International Slovenia for several years. German and one Israeli). A three-member awareness of human rights issues: ‘The dedicated to psychodrama. The workshop According to Popek, this selection of international jury awarded a plaque to most convincing and involving story is was led by Tomi Janežič a theatre director films deals with apparently marginal the best film in the category. one that is told in a documentary film, in WEEK FESTIVAL and lecturer at the Ljubljana Academy of themes from areas where rights are Accompanying the festival were words and images, by the people to whom Theatre, in collaboration with Vladimir abused or denied on a massive scale, a seminar on the development and it actually happened. And although it’s IN KRANJ Milošević, a psychiatrist and the director although not always in the most obvious production of documentary films true that films cannot change the world, The annual Slovenian Drama Week in Kranj is, along with of the Psychodrama Institute in Belgrade, forms of human rights violations such in Europe organised by Media Desk the people who see them can.’ the Borštnik Festival in Maribor, the most important and the Israeli psychodramatist and as physical violence, torture or unlawful Slovenia with expert guests Stefano established Slovenian theatre festival. actress Hedva Novich. imprisonment. No less dangerous are Tealdi and Leena Pasanen, and a With both its festival programme certain less obvious forms of human round-table discussion entitled Albert Kos Photo STA and the accompanying programme, rights violations such as denying people ‘Environment, Human Rights and this year’s Slovenian Drama Week the right to healthy food, wilful pollution Corporate Responsibility’, organised he original focus of the four decades of the existence of this successfully fulfilled its stated purpose of the environment, misleading people jointly by Cankarjev Dom and Amnesty festival is that it is exclusively festival, something which the Prešeren of highlighting current developments in and manipulating official food safety International Slovenia. T dedicated to staging Slovenian Theatre in Kranj, the festival organiser, Slovenian dramatic arts which, according and nutrition data, or preventing mixed The festival took place in two venues dramatic productions, in an attempt to wished to highlight in the preparation to the selector Marko Sosič, are reflected or interethnic marriages or domestic – Cankarjev Dom and Kinodvor – in stimulate the production of Slovenian of this year’s programme. The festival above all in a ‘critical reflection on partnerships. As Popek points out, such order to further increase its potential theatrical works, which, though they selector, Marko Sosič, until recently the some of the fundamental moments of forms and examples of human rights audience. Thanks in part to this festival, account for a minority share in the artistic director of the Teatro Stabile Slovenia’s social and political past and violations receive less coverage in the the audience for documentary films programmes of Slovenia’s theatres, often Sloveno in Trieste, included seven of the a deepening of the critical view of the media and therefore there is all the more in Ljubljana and Slovenia in general play a crucial supporting role. This year’s 37 entries in the festival’s competition fabric of a society in which the spiritual reason for documentary films to draw continues to grow. 40th Slovenian Drama Week, which took programme and a further six productions and social dignity of the individual is attention to them. Nataša Posel, the director of Amnesty place from 20 March to 2 April, completes in the accompanying programme. A three- increasingly called into question.’ The festival’s competition category International Slovenia, sees documentary

24 April 2010 April 2010 25 Art & Culture Retrospective of comic strip artist Tomaž Lavrič at Modern Gallery Tomaž Lavrič is one of Slovenia’s best-known comic strip artists. Andrej Savelli

he exhibition Stripi (Strips), which is on display until 6 June at T the Modern Gallery in Ljubljana, presents a cross-section of his work. It features around 85 comic strip boards, the original drawings, with some from each period of his career and each specific

Jure Eržen style, as Lavrič is a versatile artist who changes styles like a chameleon. Lavrič began his career in the second half of the 1980s at the weekly magazine Second annual Slovenia Mladina, where he has published the majority of his work, and where he still remains today. Although Lavrič Press Photo awards is probably best known for his weekly strip Diareja (Diarrhoea), in which he Andrej Savelli Photo Jure Eržen, Jošt Franko has summarised the biggest current stories of the week in two or three lovenia’s second annual employed by the Slovenian media or environment (Anže Petkovšek and Boris pithy drawings every week for the last festival of photo-journalism working as freelance photographers once Farič), entertainment and culture (Matjaž 23 years, he has also created covers for S and documentary photography, again competed in several categories. The Krivic and Aleš Bravničar) and people Mladina, illustrations and caricatures Slovenia Press Photo 2010, which was international expert jury, which was led (Domen Grögl and Tomaž Črnej). to accompany stories, and last but not organised by the Institute for the by Christopher Morris, the founder of the least has published comic strips, both Promotion of Photography, was held VII Photo Agency and Time Magazine’s Jošt Franko individual and weekly serials. Lavrič at Cankarjev dom from 23 February to White House photographer, selected the has also collected the majority of those 18 March. The festival was opened by a best Slovenian press photo of 2009. strips in 11 albums, with which he has retrospective exhibition of the work of The jury selected a photo by Jure Eržen, penetrated and established himself on photographer Göksin Sipahioglu, the which shows a young Palestinian woman some of Europe’s most demanding comic founder of the reputed French agency with a one-year-old son in the ruins of their strip markets, such as France, Belgium Sipa Press of Paris. The festival also house in Gaza, when she lost her husband, and Italy. featured an exhibition entitled “War”, father and several relatives during the As director of the Modern Gallery with photos by members of one of the three weeks of Israeli shelling last year. Zdenka Badinovac said at the exhibition world’s most influential photo agencies, The award for best documentary of the opening, comic strips have long VII. The exhibition presented all of the year went to a photo documentary entitled demonstrated that they are a unique art major crisis spots of the past decade. Vdova (The Widow), in which 16-year-old form which deserves a place on gallery The high point of the festival, which Jošt Franko portrayed his grandmother walls, and the Tomaž Lavrič exhibition is also featured several accompanying events going about her daily chores. The jury an excellent opportunity for people who (photography workshops, presentations) also awarded prizes in the categories sport follow art but do not read comic strips to was the announcement of the winners of (Jure Kravanja and Tomaž Bevk), news get acquainted with his work. On the other of the strip to visit the Modern Gallery hopes that the exhibition heralds better the SPP contest. Slovenian photographers (Aleš Gregorič and Jure Eržen), nature and hand, the exhibition will also attract fans who otherwise might not attend. Lavrič times for comic strips in Slovenia.

26 April 2010 April 2010 27 Our Excellence

before the order was confirmed, despite the difficult economic Nataša is not currently planning a visit to Canada. She prefers situation, we had bought faster and quieter sewing machines South America. and organised new premises, so I knew that we would avoid production bottlenecks and that we were capable of doing the A frustrated vet job well if we got it.’ Before entering the family business, Nataša, who had loved animals since she was a child, was thinking about studying Continuing a family tradition veterinary medicine. She had to give up this idea because of The wearing of sports kit at schools and sports clubs in health problems and numerous allergies. In the meantime she Slovenia in the 1970s was an developed another great passion innovation for which Nataša’s – travelling. South America was father was partly responsible. her favourite destination. Later A former physical education she enrolled at the University teacher, it was he who proposed of Ljubljana’s Faculty of Textile what for Slovenian sport was Technology, although she did then a new form of dressing. not complete the course. ‘It Once the business had got off simply wasn’t interesting,’ she the ground, Nataša’s mother says with a smile. Her great Kristina dedicated practically success with athletes’ numbers all of her working life to sewing at the Olympics, which has not sports kits and athletes’ passed unobserved among numbers for almost the whole designers within the sector, of Slovenia. has finally convinced Nataša Nataša inherited the family that she made the right choice business on her mother’s when she decided to dedicate retirement in 1991, and with it herself to the family business. a good reputation that allowed Interestingly, her ambitions her, as she herself puts it, to remain modest for the time find a business partner in the Of course money is being. She says she is not larger Austrian market. And so, important, but it is thinking about a new Mura in via an agency in Innsbruck with not decisive for my Radovljica. ‘ feel like an Olympic champion, I have achieved which she has been working quality of life. ‘No, I don’t want a big factory, a new personal best,’ says the otherwise reserved and modest for a number of years, she beat I’m satisfied with our current SmalL can I Nataša Pristov, 40, of Radovljica, with a hint of pride. She is off competition from all over way of working. Of course money thinking of the recent XXI Olympic Winter Games in Vancouver the world to win the above order for the Olympic Games in is important, but it is not decisive for my quality of life,’ says in which she also took part, in her own unique way. Canada. this modest businesswoman from Radovljica for whom, on the The feeling of victory began the moment the last of many The actual sewing of the numbers was not difficult, other hand, personal spiritual development is very important. be big boxes containing the last batch of the almost 15,000 athletes’ explains Nataša Pristov, although the cut for each individual For the last five years she has been studying kundalini yoga Sanja Rubinić Photo Matej Povše/Dnevnik numbers sewn at her company Prina in Radovljica, at the foot discipline, the breadth of the shoulders, the depth of the as taught by Yogi Bhajan, which helps greatly in her work. of the , reached its destination in Canada. This was roughly neckline and, of course, the gender of the athletes is precisely ‘I notice that, thanks to yoga, it is easier to concentrate and two months before the opening of the Games, when the client specified. More important was the preparation of the colour to separate essential things from unnecessary, unimportant gave a uniform verdict – the little company from Gorenjska had printing process. ‘Colours, specifically a dark blue shade things. I cope better with fear and, through yoga, have The feeling of victory done an excellent job! that is very difficult to get on a printer, were decisive in the almost got rid of it entirely. Of course I am not just talking began the moment the Between 1 September and 10 December last year, in premises company getting the order,’ explains Nataša. ‘Naturally the about my own fears, but fears that are probably common to measuring 130 square metres, three seamstresses, Pristov material also has to be of a certain quality, but that is not as most people, since these days we can see how principles are last of many boxes herself and her husband Andrej Okorn (who had left his important as the colours.’ falling down and a kind of chaos prevails. On the one hand containing the last batch job at Elan for this important order) sewed numbers for the Winter is the time when the sewing season at the everything is permitted, while on the other hand nothing of the almost 15,000 athletes due to appear at the Olympic and Paralympic Games workshop reaches its peak. Their numbers have been worn is, and in these conditions it is difficult to focus on values. athletes’ numbers sewn in Vancouver, the television broadcasts of which have just been by competitors in World Cup skiing events for years. Besides For me personally, the best way to do this is through yoga.’ at her company Prina in viewed by an audience of millions. athletes’ numbers, of which they make up to 10,000 a year, Nataša, who describes herself as a ‘cautious optimist’ does ‘There was no panic or euphoria, or even any sleepless depending on the season and orders, the little company also not want to burden herself with negative thoughts, negative Radovljica, at the foot nights. We organised the work carefully before we started and makes kits for football, volleyball, basketball and handball, energy, and thinks that in a way this is how she managed to of the Alps, reached its then completed it calmly and almost without stress,’ Pristov and offers screen printing services. ‘summon up’ the order of the decade. destination in Canada. explains, adding that for the three months that her company Only in summer, when work slows down considerably ‘Yoga helps you to become calmer,’ concludes Nataša. ‘You was working on the job there were almost no other orders. because of the seasonal drop in orders, do they take a well- accept things as they are. You only focus on the present. This ‘There were no surprises. Everything fell into place. Even earned rest in the form of a short holiday. Despite everything, is the spirit in which our whole group worked, and I’m not

28 April 2010 April 2010 29 Our Excellence

Labour, Family and Social Affairs Minister Ivan Svetlik (third from the left) posing with the winners of the Golden Thread 2009 awards for best employers handed out by publisher Dnevnik Gold Thread 2009 Si.mobil, Nil and Vivo Catering are the best employers Ana Mrzlikar Photo STA

lata nit, or Gold Thread, is a media research nit. “More than 8,000 Slovenians gave marks for relations within project run by the newspaper company Dnevnik, and since the organisation that employs them, and among the finalists we sure that I would have taken things as calmly if it hadn’t been businesswoman from Radovljica and, like the successes of Z 2007 it has been holding the national selection of the best also looked into the area of leadership, while for all companies for yoga.’ the skiers Tina Maze and Petra Majdič, both of whom shone in employer. The first year saw the participation of 130, and in three we took into account financial performance, so I am certain Vancouver, the media covered it down to the smallest detail. years around 250 companies, with several thousand employees that our society can learn a great deal from many of these best Media attention But despite all the media coverage, no congratulations, thanks taking part each year. The Zlata nit award is presented in the employers.” Nataša Pristov does not see the order for the Winter Olympics or even a bouquet of flowers have been forthcoming from categories of small, medium and large companies, depending on The Zlata nit project is supported by the most prominent as the greatest success of her life, although it is already clear the authorities in Radovljica, even though this little town in the number of employees. The most significant portion of the figures of the business world, civil society and the academic that it will represent a kind of turning point in her business. Gorenjska has enjoyed its own share of fame and publicity marks is given by employees in the companies participating in the sphere, while the honorary patron is the Slovenian Ministry Her most important success, thanks to Nataša’s success. selection, and the winners of individual categories are selected of Labour, Family and Social Affairs. The Minister for Labour, she says, is the healing of her When asked where she sees in the end by a committee, following in-depth interviews with Family and Social Affairs, Dr Ivan Svetlik, said in his introduction son, a process in which she was That sewing numbers herself in five or ten years’ time, company managers and after a vote by the expert council. speech at this year’s award ceremony: “The Zlata nit project fulfils involved in a very specific way. for Olympic athletes Nataša does not have an answer. The main purpose and design of the project is to seek out numerous aspects associated with values, theory and practice as When he was a baby, her son ‘I trust to intuition and will wait the top Slovenian company of the 21st century, one where well as employment and training policies. The examples of this Aljaž, now 10, contracted a serious was very important and see what the future brings. employees have the chance to fulfil their talents, and through project’s award-winners show that for companies with good key form of atypical dermatitis. The for her company is I don’t make long-term plans them to contribute to the success of the organisation in the personnel and cohesive and motivated employees, even the alternative treatment conducted also illustrated by because something can always global market, say the organisers of Zlata nit. economic crisis does not pose a threat, but rather a challenge by the homoeopath Kornelija the way that global come along to shatter them in a The organisation of Zlata nit begins each year in the first which they are prepared to overcome. Employers who know Pope-Toth also included ‘healing’ marketing works in moment.’ few days of autumn, then in the first few days of spring it how to provide a creative working environment by motivating the mother. By changing her That sewing numbers for concludes with a celebration and awards ceremony. “Through employees, where their business performance is reflected patterns of thinking and working this specific case. Olympic athletes was very the media research project Zlata nit and its selection of the best primarily in the creation of good and safe jobs, are worth all our on herself, she was consequently important for her company is employer, we want to contribute to the dynamic development of confidence and support. The Zlata nit awards are a prize for all the able to help improve the state of also illustrated by the way that employees and organisations and also to the competitiveness efforts of companies that invest in employee satisfaction as well health of her son. The situation in those years at the beginning global marketing works in this specific case. Despite the fact of the Slovenian economy. Each year our team devotes eight as development. The best employers are a model and inspiration of the new millennium, as Nataša vividly remembers, was that new orders are arriving, she will not be allowed to mention months of preparation, research and work to the selection, and for the Slovenian economy, since work and employment anything but rosy. The business, too, was going through a the Olympic project on her website for another two years. even in these rather unfavourable economic conditions we have represent for individuals not just social security, but also an period of uncertainty. But even without the internet, there must be some truth in again managed to find shining examples of best practices in the important indication of their status in society.” Journalists were quick to seize on the success story of the the saying that ‘a good reputation travels far’. area of working with people,” says Saša Mrak, the head of Zlat A total of 115 companies opted to take part in this year’s

30 April 2010 APril 2010 31 Our Excellence

national selection of the best employers, which came really We are building on this relationship at every step, since we are Nil, winner of the medium-sized category close to last year’s number of participants (117). Of the 101 best aware that our staff are just people, with hearts and feelings, Last year the company Nil celebrated two decades of presence in employers there were 50 small companies (up to 50 employees), and we devote great attention to this fact. The company’s vision the communication technology field. And that’s not all – we can 25 medium (between 51 and 250) and 26 large companies (251 and is for all users to recognise Si.mobil as the most attractive safely say that Nil is one of the leading companies in this field, more employees). communications provider in Slovenia, and all members of the and is not just able to identify global trends, but through its orchestra are responsible for this,” stresses CEO Dejan Turk, know-how, which is bought by leading world multinationals, it And the best employers are … who is also 2009 manager of the year. So what is the secret of is even helping to shape them. This is no doubt in part because The best employers of 2009 were announced at the award this company’s success? “A few years ago, like the majority one of the main focuses of the company has a very simple title: ceremony, which took place on 18 March this year at Ljubljana of mobile telephony companies, Si.mobil had a distinctly talents. “Whenever we recruit, we are looking for people who Castle. In the small company category the title went to Vivo technological orientation. We then made a conscious decision will fit well with our personnel,” says managing director Klemen Catering, for the medium category to Nil and in the large not to compete in this field, since the competition in this area is Štular. “We have a good team of workers. It’s similar to team sports. company category the title went to Si.mobil. extremely fierce and the investments huge. We decided instead A good team is the secret for success. Outstanding individuals, of this to try to get the most whom we like to call virtuosos in sports, are desirable, or the dot Si.mobil d.d., winner driven and motivated people,” on the i, but they are powerless without a strong team. We in fact of the large The distinguishing adds Turk. have both: a strong team and virtuosos.” company category feature of Si.mobil is And this commitment, or Among the exceptional companies ranked as finalists in the This year Si.mobil was among our staff, whose drive, rather the drive of the staff category of medium-sized companies, Nil stands out in several the Zlata nit finalists in the large dedication and originality at Si.mobil, their enterprise, criteria. Its internal balance is something essential: in all factors company category for the third infused with a creative of the organisational climate, such as a stimulating work time, and last year the company is the company’s greatest climate, the orientation to environment and management, job autonomy, the possibility had already received a special asset. We are building on this innovation and development of career development, the absence of overloading, dedication award for the most innovative relationship at every step, of highly demanding jobs, plus to the company and staff cohesion, the company is in first or and socially responsible since we are aware that our the successful commercial second place. The company also scores very highly in terms of approach to employees and the staff are just people, with development of the company, added value: in 2008 it exceeded EUR 120,000 per employee. wider environment. are the factors recognised by “The distinguishing feature hearts and feelings, and we the committee, against stiff Vivo Catering, winner in the small of Si.mobil is our staff, whose devote great attention to competition, as belonging to the company category important as the one preparing the main dish. If that person drive, dedication and originality this fact. best employer of 2009 in the large The company Vivo Catering, this year’s winner in the small has the wrong approach to doing dishes, it is no use arriving is the company’s greatest asset. company category. company category, was already one of the finalists last year. on site with a fabulous main dish but dirty plates,” adds Jerneja Right since they started, they have been handing down the Kamnikar. The high marks from the committed employees and skills and culture of event catering to generations of school and the indicators of successful company development confirm university students studying catering and tourism courses. that, quite simply, she is right. “The thing that distinguishes the Vivo people and the Vivo The other finalists of this year’s Zlata nit that also received Catering brand, is professionalism. Our guests recognise us by awards at the ceremony are the small companies B2, Collegium this the moment they set foot in the door. Years ago the staff at Mondial Travel, Hair Beauty, Intera, List and XLAB; in the Vivo adopted the motto “It isn’t medium-sized group they are a job, it’s lifestyle”, and as the Četrta pot, Halcom, Medis, founder this is a clear message Outstanding Microsoft, MIK and ; and that we’re on the right track. We individuals, whom we among the large companies they are very proud that the British like to call virtuosos in are dm drogerie markt, , protocol services, in other words sports, are desirable, Lekarna Ljubljana, S&T Slovenija, the Queen, selected us to work for or the dot on the i, but Trimo and Zavarovalnica . them. The achievement of being And one more new feature selected for this will be very hard they are powerless of the project this year: for the for us to outdo. There is a general without a strong first time this year Zlata nit is rule around the world – if you team. We in fact have being extended to government are entrusted official British and both: a strong team administration and its operating Japanese functions, you have and virtuosos. units. The response of these long-lasting capital in terms of units has been extraordinary, references, and this applies both with registration from 55 out of a to the individual and the company,” says managing director total of 58, representing more than 94 percent. This is important, Jerneja Kamnikar. since the results of surveys will be very representative. They will The company excels in challenging operations, where a top- be presented at the Days of Public Law and Public Management, quality service can only result from the full empowerment 2 June 2010, when the three best operating units will be of human capital. “For us the person washing up is just as announced in the small, medium and large categories.

32 April 2010 APril 2010 33 PLANICA – CRADLE OF THE FLYING CARNIOLAN MARK II Planica shines at the 21st world ski flying championship SLOVENIAN SPORT Andrej Stare Photo Darinka Mladenovič Andrej Stare Photo Darinka Mladenovič our years ago we celebrated the centenary were built in Harrachov in Czechoslovakia and Ironwood in the of the birth of Ludvik Starič, the best Slovenian speedway USA. Planica gradually re-established ties with the biggest jumps, F contestant of all times, whose amazing feats of speed and from 1985 on the world record has had its home at the Planica before the Second World War won him the nickname “The Flying giant built by the Gorišek brothers. Flyers such as Mike Holland, Carniolan”. Now Slovenia has a new “Flying Carniolan” – the ski Matty Nykanen, Piort Fijas, Martin Hoellwarth, Toni Nieminen (the jumper . first to break the 200 metre barrier with a 203-metre flight), Espen This season has been by far the most successful one for Robert Bredesen, Lasse Ottesen, , , Kranjec. After taking top spot in the World Cup competition four Thomas Hoerl, , Matti Hautamaki and finally years ago in Kuusamo, this year his outstanding jumps and Bjoren Einar Romoeren became heroes of Planica, the most famous flights have won him the small crystal globe as winner of the Slovenian valley in the world. In the time from 1969, when the jump special World Cup ski flying ranking. In front of a crowd of 50 was enlarged, to this year, events at Planica have been attended by 000 spectators at the jump in Austria, Robi, as his friends more than 2.5 million spectators. The ski flights at Planica have call him, beat out all the world competition, and his one victory ay back in 1933, the engineers Stanko Bloudek become the biggest and most important sports event in Slovenia. and one second place catapulted him onto the top ranking of ski and Ivan Rožman set off by train from Ljubljana to Many people have called the week of flights at Planica a flying. He won the icing on his cake at the Heini Kloepfer jump W Rateče. Their final destination was the Planica valley, national holiday, a festival of sport and the peak of winter sports. in Obesrstdorf, where his second place merely confirmed his which stretches out from Rateče to Tamar. They had hit upon the In recent years Planica has hosted the conclusion of the World Cup dominance this year of the World Cup. After 13 years, it was a fine idea of finding some location to erect and install a ski jump from seven times, and in this valley below Mt. Ponce one more sports sight to see a Slovenian jumper with the crystal globe at the close of which it would be possible to jump more than 100 m. The other sub-discipline has been born – team ski flying competitions. At the World Cup in the famous location of Hollmenkollen near Oslo. locations they had checked out were not suitable. According to Planica every sports person is welcome, especially those who At the end of last season, when he came third in the flights at the pioneers of this sport from the , Planica was hurtle down the inrun and launch themselves at speeds of over Planica, Robert Kranjec was already predicting his rise to the top. an ideal valley for a ski jump. The two construction engineers 100 km/h, rising around 8 metres above the ground and landing At that time he told a TV reporter: “Tomorrow I’ll rest, then the inspected the valley, which was accessible at that time by a footpath, on the outrun at speeds of more than 115 km/h. Those who have next day I start training for the 2010 Olympic season.” Although they determined the grade of the slope and the location, and the flown off the Planica jump were always thrilled, many describing medals eluded him in Vancouver, he won the small crystal globe, decision was made. The following spring, the first workers arrived their flights as the high point of and flying. while at the recently concluded world ski flying championship with cartes, cleared the spruces and other trees and thereby started Planica has been visited by kings, emperors, prime ministers in his home turf of Planica he came fifth. It is hard to avoid the the coming year he would be even stronger, even better. In 2011 building the ski jump, which in the next two decades shaped a and presidents, and they were always welcome, no matter where feeling that this 28-year-old Kranj native has had plenty of bad the world ski jumping championship will be at Hollmenkollen, new branch of sport – ski flying. It was they who built the ski jump they came from. During his visit to Planica, the former President luck. The ski flights at Planica are always the treat at the end of above Oslo, the cradle of ski jumping. Robi is promising a on which in 1936 the Austrian Sepp Bradl flew 101 metres, thereby of Zambia, Dr. Kenneth Kaunda, said: “This is the first time I have the season, and this year the four-day competition was attended supreme state of readiness and the attainment of his first becoming the first man to break what ever been dressed up for winter, by around 100 000 spectators. They came from all over, with huge individual medal in the big competitions. At the end of the World was in those times the magical barrier Planica has been with a hat and woollen gloves, and if numbers of ski flying enthusiasts from , Finland, Austria, Cup season, he is predicting a new record being set at the Planica of a hundred metres. Ski flights became I was younger, I would undoubtedly Germany and Switzerland. Planica shone at the 21st world ski giant. The world record is 239 metres, set by the Norwegian flyer the major winter sports attraction, and visited by kings, emperors, head off down the jump and fly … flying championship. Ultimately the top crown was taken by the Bjorn Einar Romoeren, and the Slovenian national record is an right up until 1948, when the Swiss Fritz prime ministers and being like a bird in the jungle, here extraordinary Swiss jumper , a young man who equally outstanding 229 metres. Many experts are wondering Tschannen flew 120 metres, Planica presidents, and they were in the snow, which in my homeland has now added the title of best flyer to his haul of two Olympic whether the “Flying Carniolan” can be the first man to fly 250 was the place of the longest ski flights. always welcome, no matter we have never even seen.” gold medals and victory in the total World Cup ranking. metres. Robi’s response to such ideas is: “It’s quite possible Later ski flying jumps were also built where they came from. Just how big the Planica jump Yet Robert Kranjec was not far off flying his way to a medal. that I’ll be the first to fly 250 metres, and for that I would need in Germany, Austria and Norway, and is can best be conveyed Despite what was by far the furthest flight on the first day, owing a lot of luck choosing the flight path, favourable uplift and a lot the world record became the property by the words of the one- to the new rules, which were applied for the first time in the of support from the spectators.” And always there among the of Oberstdorf , Kulm and Vikersund. time ski flying world record holder Matti Nykanen of world championship, he only secured seventh place. Problems supporters is his spouse Špela, who follows Robi everywhere. In the middle of the sixties, the brothers Janez and Lado Finland from 20 years ago: “When you get to the top selecting the appropriate flight (the length of the flight path “Without Špela I would no longer have enough motivation Gorišek revived Planica, and at a new location they constructed of the ramp and you look down into the valley and the outrun, and thereby the appropriate speed on launching) and the wind to jump, but since we’ve been together, my life has turned 180 the “mammoth jump”, which facilitated flights of over 160 you get the feeling that you’re trying to jump onto a postage conditions did not favour Robert Kranjec this time. In the end degrees for the better. So I have no lack of motivation, and I hope metres. In 1969 there was a spectacular opening, at which the stamp. You hear the roaring of the 10,000-strong crowd, and the he took fifth place, which is the third best ranking of a Slovenian that the coming big competitions will finally be mine!” world record was re-set five times. The heroes of flight were the whole thing sends you into a trance.” flyer to date in the world championships. Whoever knows Robert Kranjec – the “Flying Carniolan” Mark Norwegian Bjoren Wirkola, the Czech Jiri Raška and German And that trance is Planica, with its charisma and its sports and But Robert the “Flying Carniolan” Kranjec, who earned his II – knows that Robi is serious, for he has reached a maturity in Manfred Wolf. On the final day of the flights, Wolf reached what wider significance. Planica is an expression of Slovenia’s love of nickname through his extraordinary flights over 200 metres (he his sport. And his approach, his agreeable nature and above all was then an unbelievable 165 metres. sport, and this national sports festival is and remains the biggest has already notched up 88 in his career) is not giving up. Over the his outstanding flights have captured the hearts of Slovenian Gradually other ski jumps were expanded, and new facilities Slovenian event of each year. loudspeakers at the end of the competition he announced that in ski-flying enthusiasts.

34 April 2010 April 2010 35 Jože Šparovec Slovenian and Canadian Skiing Legend Polona Prešeren Photo Aleš Fevžer

I was very honoured when the Slovenian Olympic Committee offered me this job, since most of the people who had held the position at other Olympiads were politicians of some sort. When they came to Vancouver they decided to put my experience to use. My role was to give advice to the head of the delegation and their assistant, since I was the athletic director of the Canadian ski team for eight years.

Can we even speak any longer of the spirit of “the important thing is to participate” in the Olympic Games as we see them today, or have the athletes become modern-day gladiators? This is a personal dilemma for me. I have participated in plenty of Olympic Games and I have to say that the Olympics are becoming more and more commercial. The athletes and the events are not the priority. I think that the International Olympic Committee ože Šparovec is the coach who stood behind the has to think about this. The Olympics are becoming an incredibly great early successes of Slovenian (at the time still big event and only a few countries are capable of hosting them. J Yugoslavian) skiing. He trained skiing stars like Bojan Križaj This is not good. And the commercial aspect is so big that all of and Rok Petrovič. Twenty years ago he and his family moved to the sponsors and the entire Olympic family are focused on it. The Whistler, where he first became the head of the local ski team, and athletes are therefore becoming like gladiators in the arena. In a few years later became the athletic director of the Canadian alpine fact, everything is subordinated to the commercial momentum. ski team. Now a local in Whistler, Jože Šparovec is still connected The safety of the athletes is no longer as important, and they are with sports, but now in more of a business capacity. He was the increasingly exposed to risk. It’s more important that the television Olympics attaché of the Slovenian ski team at this year’s Winter broadcast will be at the right time than whether the conditions will Olympics. We spoke with him at the Slovenia House in Whistler. be right for the competitors. This is a major dilemma. I also think that perhaps some sports shouldn’t be in the Olympics. It would How do you rate the performances of our skiers at the be better to focus on the athletes, and not so much on whether Olympic Games? some individual stars will appear at the Games. In view of the size of Slovenia these are phenomenal results. We are right up there with the big countries. Some countries just have What does the future hold for alpine skiing, in your opinion? great conditions for winter sports – like Canada, Norway, Sweden Alpine skiing will have to redefine itself. The competition for and all of the countries that get a lot of snow. Slovenia competes viewers, for the attention of the sponsors, is huge. Alpine skiing with these countries as a powerhouse, with a lot of very successful is a little too heavily laden with superpowers which have a competitors. But Slovenians are not just successful at winter sports; conservative approach. They should perhaps follow the example of we do well in summer sports too. Of course Petra Majdič and Tina other professional sports. One interesting example is the biathlon, Maze are the standouts, but I have to congratulate the entire team. which changed from a relatively unwatched sport into a highly watched and popular sport. Alpine skiing needs to go through How about the Terry Fox Award that Petra Majdič received? some kind of similar transformation. If you look at the larger That is really something special. Terry Fox is truly a legend in countries, we see that the concept of alpine skiing is practically Canada. He was a young man, an athlete, who endured an immense foreign to the average viewer. For instance, ski cross is simpler: four amount of suffering. He showed something great to himself and racers compete and whoever crosses the line first is the winner. the world, and increased awareness of cancer and the fight against There is no complicated calculation of two runs, no counting from cancer. He ran 26 miles on one leg every day until his body gave out 30 down, no special provisions regarding start numbers etc. and he died. Canadians really respect his effort, and they highly Furthermore, it is very difficult to get World Cup races outside admire and value everything connected with Terry Fox. They are all the Alps. And it will stay that way as long as it doesn’t become united in this respect. popular all over the world. The addition of additional races in Zagreb is a very positive development. But until there aren’t races You were the Olympics attaché of the Slovenian ski team in China and elsewhere around the world, including the Southern at this year’s Winter Olympics. What was your job like? Hemisphere, it will be difficult to succeed.

36 April 2010 Slovenian Delights Idrijski žlikrofi A true speciality of Idrija Polona Prešeren Photo Tomo Jeseničnik

lthough it is only a small Divje Jezero or ‘Wild Lake’. the mercury mine. Over time, of course, place, Idrija is famous for several Idrija is also home to a gastronomic the dish acquired its own characteristic A things. It is the home of the world- speciality. The town and the surrounding local recipe, appearance and taste in Idrija famous Idrija lace, while the abandoned area have been famous since the mid-19th and the surrounding area. Owing to a lack mercury mine, with its unique history, century for idrijski žlikrofi. As Dr Janez of historical sources, however, its exact has long attracted large numbers of Bogataj writes in his book Taste Slovenia, origin has never been established. Idrijski visitors. Attractions in the vicinity of there are several theories about the origin žlikrofi are a national dish of Slovenia Idrija include a wonderful manor house, of this dish but it is most likely that žlikrofi made from dough with a potato filling Kendov Dvorec, today a hotel, and many originated in Transylvania, brought by and a characteristic shape. In view of their beautiful natural sights, among them the mine workers who came to work in traditional process of elaboration and

April 2010 37 Slovenian Delights ‘Žlikrofi are a popular dish in the Idrija area

recipe, in 2002 the Ministry of Agriculture, and homemade žlikrofi are a frequent item Forestry and Food granted idrijski žlikrofi on the menu in many households. They traditional product status. are also made by five certified producers How are they made? and can be bought in the shops.’ Making idrijski žlikrofi can be quite a lengthy process and consists of several phases. The first thing to do is to prepare the dough. Then it is time to make the filling. This consists of potato, minced lard or smoked bacon, onion, seasoning and herbs. The filling is shaped into regular, hazelnut-sized balls. Then the dough is rolled out thinly and the balls of filling are placed onto it. The dough is then folded over and pressed down between the balls of filling, forming ‘ears’. A little hollow is then made in the top of each individual žlikrof, giving the žlikrofi their characteristic ‘hat’ shape. Now the žlikrofi are ready for the final phase – cooking. Idrijski žlikrofi are served with cracklings, various meat sauces and other sauces. The most common sauce for žlikrofi is called bakalca and is made with mutton or rabbit. Idrijski žlikrofi are served by some restaurants and farm tourism establishments. These can be identified by a distinctive yellow-and-brown signs with the inscription ‘Traditional Food Served’ and the logo of the Society for the Promotion and Protection of the Traditional Recipe for the preparation of around 150 idrijski žlikrofi Dishes of Idrija. Frozen idrijski žlikrofi can (enough to satisfy the whole family): be found in supermarket freezers. Dough Preparation In the meantime, prepare a An extremely popular dish  Up to 300g white flour Mix together the ingredients filling from boiled and peeled  1-2 eggs for the dough, which should potatoes. Mash the potatoes The popularity of idrijski žlikrofi shows  Oil not be too hard. Knead the when still warm. Season with no signs of waning and they are among  Water­ or milk as necessary dough until it becomes salt. Fry and chop the smoked the traditional Slovenian dishes whose flexible and elastic and does bacon and add to the potatoes production and consumption are growing Filling not stick to the hands or the (alternatively use cracklings  500g potatoes board. If the dough is cut it or minced lard). Mix in the strongly. According to some figures,  Up to 50g minced lard or must be dense and without fried onion and seasonings. around 50 tonnes of them are produced chopped smoked bacon air holes. Mix well and knead until the and consumed each year. Idrijski žlikrofi  Up to 50g onion Form the dough into a mixture is soft. Form the (including the frozen variety) contain  ­Seasoning: chives, black loaf and leave to rest for 30 mixture into hazelnut-sized pepper, salt, marjoram minutes. Then roll it out thinly. balls. no preservatives, colouring or flavour enhancers. The dish is so popular that a special Idrijski Žlikrofi, one member who is not overall impression. This year’s winner was tasting is held in Idrija every year. This part of the certification system, one new the Gostilna Kos from Idrija. year it took place in early March. Nine member of the Society who is hoping Preparing frozen žlikrofi is very simple: competitors took part with samples to obtain the certificate shortly, and a shake the frozen žlikrofi into boiling salted of their žlikrofi, among them certified local women’s club with samples from water and cook until they float to the producers who make their žlikrofi in five of their members. A commission surface. They can be served with a variety accordance with the Report on the awarded points for five characteristics: of sauces, giving free rein to individual Traditional Product Designation for appearance, smell, flavour, texture and creativity.

38 April 2010 People

Trbovlje Iztok Kovač is from Trbovlje. In a relatively small but geographically extremely diverse IZTOK KOVAČ country like Slovenia, this means a lot. Trbovlje, around which most of Slovenia’s Catching the Falcon mines are located (all of them now Jože Osterman Photo Barbara Jakše closed), is still considered Slovenia’s first relatively modern industrial centre, with all the social consequences that this

APril 2010 39 People

implies. These are: in the beginning, the Slovenia of the grey, polluted and forgotten reputation gained him the support of the Španski Borci birth and development of the town and its landscape of socialist heavy industry. His management of Slovenia’s largest cultural In recent years Kovač has also been working population with a relatively high return to his native town should not be centre, Cankarjev Dom, which became a co- focusing on the question of a suitable standard of living, the struggle for workers’ understood merely as personal sentiment, producer of his projects and, in the early working environment to enable the solid rights, and finally, following the collapse but as a return to the origins of his own days, provided him with rehearsal space. and systematic creation of contemporary of most of the industrial plants after the physical constitution, which formed itself This was without a doubt a breakthrough, dance in Slovenia. A decade ago En-Knap end of the 20th century, a gradual slide surrounded by the bodies of workers and since even a decade earlier contemporary was instrumental in the founding of a into a poorer life and major environmental miners.’ The aesthetic of the heavy bodies dance had been a marginal sphere of the contemporary dance department at the problems. People from such places are and movements of the workers and arts in Slovenia. Recognition in the form School of Music and Ballet in Ljubljana, one usually used to hard work. They are miners, in some respects awkward and of the Prešeren Fund Award won by Kovač of the few State-run institutions in Europe persevering and self-confident, even clumsy but with an undoubted beauty in 1994 and the solid support of the City of to offer education in this field. ‘I think it stubborn. The fact that the internationally and attractiveness of their own, was, Ljubljana and the Ministry of Culture are is vital that contemporary dance should famous avant-garde music group Laibach in the last decade of the last century, a merely confirmations of the successful become a field for which we ourselves was formed in this town, that the art novelty that shook Europe and prepared and convincing work of Iztok Kovač and are capable of training professionals and collective Neue Slowenische Kunst has its it for a reflection on the aesthetics of the a number of other figures from the enabling steady employment for them,’ roots here and that Iztok Kovač comes from once despised socialist way of life. Slovenian contemporary dance scene says Kovač. ‘This would significantly here is evidence of the incredible creative such as Ksenija Hribar and Matjaž Farič. increase young people’s motivation charge that can be generated in a formerly En-Knap At the same time, Kovač has helped for dance.’ He took the first step in the prosperous industrial environment by Kovač, who was working successfully as contemporary dance expand into the direction of establishing a more solid critical self-reflection. a dancer and choreographer even before sphere of dance film, where Kovač’s institution by creating a professional Kovač sees his own development as Slovenian independence, earned the collaborations with one of Slovenia’s most company of five dancers, selected by something self-evident. He has always attention and also the praise of Slovenian gifted young directors Sašo Podgoršek means of a very successful international been very interested in the physicality and international contemporary dance audition. ‘If in the early 1990s Slovenian of the human body. He has dedicated circles, particularly with his project How I ‘‘I think it is vital that cultural policy showed a marked openness a lot of energy to sport, and even today Caught the Falcon, which he created in 1991 contemporary dance towards new initiatives in art, later on, is a fanatical athlete. When a student at and in which he dances alone. Modestly, when it became necessary to consolidate the Technical Secondary School of Civil he explains that the piece’s success was should become a field achievements deriving from this basis and Engineering in Ljubljana he was one of the also conditioned by the period in which for which we ourselves introduce them into the system, things best sport dancers in the country, while it occurred. ‘The wars in the Balkans, this fell off a little,’ says Kovač, who continues back in Trbovlje he was a member of the entirely unknown area slowly opening up are capable of training to fight for his chosen sphere. In 2009, by generation of Alpine skiers that was then to reveal its horrors, over which Europe professionals and entrusting En-Knap with the running of establishing this sport at the national undoubtedly had a bad conscience, were the Španski Borci Cultural Centre (named level (these days skiers from that part of instrumental in helping me attract the enabling steady in honour of the Yugoslav members of the country have once again faded into the interest of some of the best foreign artists,’ employment for the International Brigades who fought background). ‘A few days ago I passed an remembers Kovač. ‘We communicated in the Spanish Civil War), the City of exam to be a Telemark skiing instructor,’ openly and equally with some of the them,’ says Kovač.’ Ljubljana opened up real possibilities for boasts Kovač, adding that he has grown biggest names of that time. The fact that have created a fascinating artistic niche the founding of Slovenia’s third national a little tired of ‘normal’ Alpine skiing. you have information, that you find out that has intrigued audiences around dance institution (alongside the Maribor Anyone familiar with skiing will know that at first hand what is happening in your Europe. “It’s logical,” is Kovač’s laconic and Ljubljana opera and ballet companies), the Telemark style is an attractive form of own sphere and can add your own part, explanation of this development. “The which is Kovač’s greatest aim, as he freely skiing that combines sliding down snow- is incredibly valuable.’ In 1993 he won a theatre and most other dramatic arts admits. ‘I believe that cultural policy, by covered slopes with elements of cross- prestigious Time Out London Dance and have literature as a basis, but dance can which I mean above all the Ministry of country skiing and trekking. For Kovač, it Performance Award for Best Performance only be adequately recorded by film.” This Culture, will be capable of recognising represents a new challenge. by a Visiting Artist. This year of successes expansion does not, of course, remain contemporary dance as a field that needs ‘The aesthetic of the heavy bodies and From this starting point, Kovač’s also represented an important turning merely at the level of recording; rather, it its own national institution, and will take movements of the workers and miners, in interest moved to higher levels of point on the organisational side: in the allows both artists to address brand-new steps to facilitate that.’ Iztok Kovač also thinking about the miracle known as Belgian city of Leuven, under the aegis of challenges and enhance the physical tie to believes that this will happen soon. some respects awkward and clumsy but with the human body and the way it moves, the Stuc arts centre and the Klapstuk dance the body, which is of course the reality of When you ask him if he is satisfied an undoubted beauty and attractiveness of while remaining closely connected to the festival, Kovač founded the international dance. Films such as Vertigo Bird, filmed with his work to date and with his environment that he came from. The critic dance group En-Knap, which even with on the 360-metre-high chimney of the successes, Kovač says that he has actually their own, was, in the last decade of the last Eda Čufer sees an extraordinary loyalty to its name returns him symbolically to his power station in Trbovlje, and later films never thought about it. This is perhaps century, a novelty that shook Europe and his native Trbovlje in the poetics of Kovač’s native environment. Knap is, in fact, the through which the two artists enhance understandable: he is still a relatively dance. ‘A frequent point of reference in his local word for a miner. existing dance projects represent a brand- young man with clear goals, for which prepared it for a reflection on the aesthetics work is his birthplace, Trbovlje – a mining The group’s home became Ljubljana. new page for contemporary dance, and he is working tirelessly and in which he of the once despised socialist way of life.’ town and at the same time a symbol in Kovač’s growing international also for dance film. believes. In short – a knap.

40 April 2010 April 2010 41 Cultural Trails

was unveiled on ‘his’ Zacherl and Industry (now the House in Vienna. The following Constitutional Court), the year a Plečnik symposium was Mutual Assurance Company, held in Kraków in Poland. The and, connected to the already Czechs have even proposed mentioned in his Church of the Sacred Heart the very centre of the city, a for inscription on the UNESCO very long, mainly two-storey World Heritage List. Following building which on its lower level, Slovenian independence, along the river, also contains when Plečnik’s works were re- Žale Cemetry a fish market. This imposing evaluated, the new country creation stands opposite the chose his image for the 500 tolar ‘It was the great outdoor market and is supported, along banknote (until the adoption of the euro, the whole of its length, by pillars in the the tolar was Slovenia’s national currency). Slovenian architect form of an antique colonnade. At one Plečnik’s career can be divided into his Jože Plečnik, who end of this complex stands a little flower Vienna, Prague and Ljubljana periods. shop reminiscent of a classical temple, His rise, as we have already said, began began his career in followed, in the direction of the main in Vienna, where he created eight works Vienna and Prague market, by an open area supported by between 1901 and 1914: the Langer villa and then established pillars, today mainly used by spice sellers. and apartment house, the Loos villa (in Then we come to one of the largest Melk), the Weidmann and Zacherl houses himself above buildings created by Plečnik in Ljubljana, Silent poetry and the chapel of the latter, the St Charles all in Ljubljana the National and University Library. With Plečnik’s Ljubljana - The beautiful creations of Borromeo fountain and the Church of with wonderful the brick elements built into its classically Slovenia’s greatest architect: in Slovenia and, the Holy Spirit. Then came Prague, where inspired walls, this is Plečnik’s bold yet between 1926 and 1933 he designed architectural characteristic architectural masterpiece. before that, in Vienna and Prague numerous architectural masterpieces. It stands a stone’s throw to the west of Among the most important are the achievements that and the former Palace of Tripple Bridge over the Juš Turk Photo Darinka Mladenovič Paradise Garden, the Garden on the gave the city a noble the Province of , today the main Ramparts, the First Courtyard in university building. Next to the library, on hat is it that makes the ascetic and infinitely committed to the Vienna. Plečnik changed the city greatly, Prague Castle, the Plečnik Hall, the new appearance Vegova Ulica, Plečnik erected monuments biggest impression on the Catholic faith, a proposal has even been effecting a wonderful transformation. He official apartment of the President after the long to Slovenian musicians and linguists. W foreign visitor to Ljubljana? made for his beatification. chose his own original artistic path which, of Czechoslovakia, the park of the Baroque period.’ Around the corner, in French Revolution Almost certainly the Triple Bridge over Plečnik was born in Ljubljana in 1872. however, nevertheless followed classical presidential summer residence, the Third Square, he placed a monument to the poet the Ljubljanica and the market along After attending the school of industry architecture. Above all, he showed through Courtyard in Prague Castle, the Bull Steps main works were created as part of this Simon Gregorčič and an obelisk in honour the riverbank. Very few visitors know, and crafts in Graz in Austria, he graduated his work that in artistic terms Slovenia was and the Garden on the Bastion. Yet his design. One of Plečnik’s most brilliant of Napoleon and his , however, who it was who embellished from the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, the equal of any other country in the world. most numerous and greatest architectural solutions is the Triple Bridge, mentioned of which Ljubljana was the capital. A few Slovenia’s capital with these and many where two of his creations immediately Not only did the authorities agree with and cultural achievements were created in the introduction, which he created on steps beyond the obelisk is the monastery other creations of startling originality. attracted attention for their originality. the majority of his plans, they provided when he returned to his homeland, the basis of an earlier stone bridge built in complex of Križanke, the property of the It was the great Slovenian architect Jože He then took up a post in Prague, where broad financial support for his colossal where, in 1920, he became a professor of 1842. To this earlier bridge, Plečnik added Teutonic Knights from the 13th century, Plečnik, who began his career in Vienna he taught at the School of Arts and Crafts, artistic breakthrough. And indeed, how architecture, although in the meantime he two footbridges. These, however, are not which was beautifully renovated by and Prague and then established himself while at the same time demonstrating else could so many architectural marvels also completed the Church of the Sacred parallel but follow the bend in the river Plečnik in 1952. This building and the above all in Ljubljana with wonderful several magnificent architectural have been created? Those in the Slovenian Heart in Prague’s Vinohrady district. His and from above, from the Franciscan former park behind it have become the architectural achievements that gave the solutions at Prague Castle. In 1920 he was capital alone were enough to earn it the Slovenian period, which was above all a church and the square containing the venue for Ljubljana’s summer festival. city a noble new appearance after the long appointed full professor of architecture lasting epithet ‘Plečnik’s Ljubljana’. Ljubljana period, lasted until his death. Prešeren statue, they lead like a kind The Embassy in Slovenia Baroque period. But almost ever major at the ’s Faculty of funnel towards the famous Robba’s has chosen it for its annual Fourth of July town in Slovenia – and many more out-of- of Engineering. In 1938 he became a full Revived fame in Paris Wonderful results of a large- Fountain ( was an 18th- reception to mark Independence Day. the-way places too – can boast at least one member of the Slovenian Academy of and Prague scale urban design concept century Baroque sculpture of the Venetian The courtyard of Križanke also contains of his works. It may be a street, a bridge, Sciences and Arts. He died in 1957. And yet after the Second World War Plečnik This was also the period when he first school). The fountain stands outside the architect’s only statue. The house a library, a church, a baptistry, a bank was largely forgotten in Slovenia until tackled the consolidation of a special , behind which rises where he was born, next to the church in building, a cemetery, a garden, a memorial Colossal transformation Europe began to rediscover his art in the town planning concept for Slovenia’s another of the famous sights of the city: Ljubljana’s , today houses or merely a monstrance or chalice in a of Ljubljana early 1980s. The turning point came in 1986 capital city which included, above all, the the Castle Hill topped by the medieval the Plečnik Museum. church. His achievements in architecture Until the start of the 20th century, with a major exhibition at the Pompidou interconnection of the city’s squares and . are so remarkable that some people Ljubljana was a small provincial city Centre in Paris. Later, in 2006, a statue of park areas interspersed by monuments Ljubljana contains several other And almost ubiquitous consider him the Slovenian Michelangelo. with buildings that, for the most part, Plečnik was unveiled at Prague Castle. and obelisks and characterised by a masterpieces by Plečnik: the Stadium, the hint of Antiquity And since he was simultaneously an were merely humble copies of those in The same year, a commemorative plaque beautifully regulated environment. His building of the Chamber of Commerce Another, even greater work by Plečnik is

42 April 2010 April 2010 43 Cultural Trails

Plečnik’s arcades on the main market

the breathtakingly beautiful arc of funeral chapels reminiscent of classical buildings ‘Yet his most numerous and greatest at the entrance to Ljubljana’s main architectural and cultural achievements were cemetery. Other projects begun by Plečnik in Ljubljana included the remodelling of created when he returned to his homeland, the high altar in the church of Saint Joseph, where, in 1920, he became a professor of although unfortunately the post-war authorities decided to convert the church architecture, although in the meantime he into a film studio. Plečnik’s work also also completed the Church of the Sacred includes the stadium in Ljubljana, today somewhat neglected. For the occasion Heart in Prague’s Vinohrady district.’ of the Eucharistic Congress in Ljubljana in 1935, Plečnik built the stadium’s Plečnik’s works also adorn other parts Heart in Osijek, the church of Our Lady of remarkably beautiful grandstand. The of Slovenia. They include numerous Lourdes in Zagreb and a pavilion for Tito’s architect also left his artistic stamp on the churches around the country, a monastery, summer residence in the Brijuni Islands. church of St Francis of Assisi and on the a savings bank, and a royal hunting lodge. He drew plans for the cathedral of Saint parish church of St Francis in Ljubljana, He also designed memorials to victims of Joseph in Sarajevo and designed the into which he incorporated a classical the Second World War in several locations church of St Anthony of Padua in Belgrade. temple with a Doric entrance and a hall around the country. He was responsible After the war and the wartime devastation based on Early Christian basilicas. Other for rebuilding the twin bell towers of the of Slovenia there were no longer any major works include Šentjakobski Trg (St James’s church in Ribnica, which were destroyed commissions for Plečnik. Because of the Square), the renovation of the Aemona during the Second World War. But his lack of available funds, he did a lot of work walls (in Roman times Ljubljana was genius stretched even further afield, to free of charge. Even as a professor, he taught called Aemona), and the other parts of the former Yugoslavia. In for a time without being paid. Despite the Shoemakers’ Bridge. Plečnik also laid out Croatia he enlarged the pilgrimage church fact that, as a religious man, he was out the city’s largest park, Tivoli. The columns at Trsat in and designed the ground of favour with the post-war authorities, topped by spherical lamps along the main plan for the extension to the pilgrimage in 1949 he received a Prešeren Award, still path through the park are designed to sanctuary at Marija Bistrica. He also worked today the most important award for artistic look like people strolling. on the church and monastery of the Sacred achievements in Slovenia.

44 April 2010 March 2010 45 Natural Trails

Bela Krajina A land of Easter eggs and many other curiosities Jože Prešeren Photo Darinka Mladenovič

ne of the many interesting all for its extraordinarily rich cultural things about Slovenia is that heritage, while we should not overlook O some of its most beautiful and the numerous other material goods that attractive regions are actually those the people of Bela Krajina can boast: the that are most out of the way. Some of region’s wines are extremely good – the these have already been presented in the best known are the red Metliška Črnina Tourist gems pages of our magazine. In the far south- and the white Belokranjsko Belo; Bela The region’s many interesting east of Slovenia, right by the border Krajina also has a number of successful sights and unspoilt and extremely with Croatia, along the river Kolpa, lies modern factories, including a bathroom beautiful countryside greatly help the Bela Krajina. Geographically, it really is furniture factory, although unfortunately development of tourism in Bela somewhat distant from major centres, the region’s once strong textile industry Krajina. The number of private tourism and therefore its inhabitants often have is currently facing serious difficulties. In enterprises is growing, farm tourism is the feeling that they are overlooked recent times the people of Bela Krajina have on the increase, with many farms offering and forgotten, and that they are lagging been calling on the national government excellent food and wine, and a number of behind in development. This may even to improve the region’s transport and hotels are being renovated. The town of be true in part, but this remoteness also communications, since they are aware that Črnomelj recently celebrated the 600th brings the region numerous advantages, their future development will also depend anniversary of the granting of town for which Bela Krajina is famous both on this. A road tunnel below the Gorjanci rights. Metlika is half a century older. in Slovenia and in many other places Hills is planned to be built in the next Both towns have much to offer in terms around the world. The local people few years. This will connect Bela Krajina of cultural history. Sights in the town often say of their region that it lies on more closely to central Slovenia. The two centres include old castles, numerous the sunny side of the Gorjanci Hills, traditional centres of Bela Krajina are the museums and galleries and other and that it is a land of white birches and old towns of Črnomelj and Metlika. More institutions of national importance. white national costumes, all of which is recently, they have been joined by Semič, Semič is also slowly developing the true. Today the region is known above a rapidly developing market town. features of the town, its development

April 2010 45

34 February 2010 Natural Trails

2001). The village of Vinica ob Kolpi has a lovingly curated commemorative collection dedicated to Oton Župančič, one of Slovenia’s greatest poets and a native of these parts. Among the popular events attracting large numbers of visitors to Bela Krajina every year is the Vinska Vigred (‘Wine Spring’) event in Metlika, offering plenty of opportunities to discover characteristic Bela Krajina food and wines and get to know the local crafts tradition. Folklore enthusiasts gather in Črnomelj for Slovenia’s oldest folklore festival, Jurjevanje (‘Feast of St George’), while a similar folklore-based event in Semič is the Semiška Ohcet (‘Semič Wedding’), where couples get married according to the old Bela Krajina tradition, dressed in traditional local costumes. This is ‘Among the popular events attracting also an opportunity to sample some large numbers of visitors to Bela Krajina of Bela Krajina’s gastronomic delights. Bela Krajina also offers visitors many every year is the Vinska Vigred (‘Wine opportunities for sport and recreation: Spring’) event in Metlika, offering plenty boating on the Kolpa, cycling, skiing in winter, numerous marked footpaths and of opportunities to discover characteristic trails between villages and hikes into the Bela Krajina food and wines and get driven by a number of important These are found in particular above worth visiting, in the vicinity of Semič, Gorjanci Hills, to Gora and through to know the local crafts tradition.’ industrial plants. The other undoubted Metlika and Drašiči. is the ancient temple of Mithra above the nature parks. distinguishing feature of Bela Krajina is Bela Krajina also offers many Rožanec, where an image of Mithra, the its folk heritage, with numerous folklore interesting cultural and historical god of light and truth, is carved into the The Easter tradition as a coloured Easter eggs of Bela Krajina, Dr so they are usually painted as empty events attracting visitors from far and sights. Not far from Metlika is Tri Fare, a rock. Locals will also draw the attention symbol of Bela Krajina Janez Bogataj, a contemporary researcher eggshells. In this way the pisanica makes wide. Bela Krajina’s winemakers are complex of three Gothic churches built of visitors to many other natural beauties A distinctive feature of Bela Krajina, of Slovenian ethnic heritage says that the a suitable permanent souvenir. among the finest in Slovenia and their between the 14th and 16th centuries. The and features of this marvellous little and one of the most popular souvenirs people of Bela Krajina have developed a In the Slovenian countryside, the wines have won numerous international churches are surrounded by a cemetery region. of Slovenia throughout the year, is the special technique for decorating eggs Easter season is the period of the awards. wall. The Kolpa Nature No visitor to pisanica, a coloured Easter egg decorated using wax. A similar technique is used in reawakening of nature, symbolised by The most important natural sights Park information ‘Bela Krajina’s Bela Krajina should in a characteristic manner. Easter the Prekmurje region of Slovenia, where food and numerous festive dishes. As Dr of Bela Krajina include the river Kolpa, centre is housed in a winemakers are miss the chance eggs, which are prepared in Slovenian decorated eggs are known as remenke. Dr Bogataj points out, eggs are an ancient one of Slovenia’s cleanest and warmest beautifully restored to visit the Bela households in the run-up to Easter, along Bogataj classes the making of coloured Indo-European symbol of spring, a rivers, part of which flows through typical Bela Krajina among the finest Krajina Museum in with various traditional Easter dishes, are Easter eggs as a traditional Slovenian natural proof of fertility and the source the protected landscape of the Kolpa farmhouse, Šokčev in Slovenia and Metlika. The museum usually dyed using shop-bought dyes or folk craft, since today pisanice are made of new life. Christianity adopted the egg Nature Park, and the river , part Dvor, not far from the contains a permanent even with onion skins, and they are often throughout the year in many parts of the as a symbol of Christ’s Resurrection – red- of the basin of which forms a protected village of Adlešiči. In their wines have exhibition on the additionally decorated with stickers. But country (in Bela Krajina particularly in the dyed eggs represent Christ’s blood – and landscape area containing numerous the village of Drašiči, won numerous life of the people of the eggs that are made in Bela Krajina village of Adlešiči) and sold as souvenirs. so the egg is a constituent element of karst phenomena. Also very beautiful every visitor is taken Bela Krajina. Metlika in this period are of a special kind that Interestingly, some Easter egg traditional Easter dishes in all Christian and interesting is the powerful spring on a hospitable visit international is also home to the is found nowhere else in Slovenia. makers add written inscriptions to the countries. Bela Krajina at Easter time of the river near Semič, where it is to the communal wine awards.’ National Museum of Making an Easter egg takes time. The decorations on their eggs in the form of an is no different from the other regions even possible to find specimens of the cellar and introduced Firefighting, where right tools are required, as are design Easter greeting (‘Alleluia!’ for example), a of Slovenia – tables groan beneath the ‘human fish’ (Proteus anguinus). One to an old custom that is still maintained you can learn about the development skills deriving from the tradition. In the saying, or even a message of love from a weight of an abundance of good things, popular excursion destination is Mirna today: all the villagers contribute their of firefighting in Slovenia. The first middle of the last century, the leading girl to a boy or vice versa, since coloured including various types of potica, hams, Gora (1,047 metres), the summit of which own wine to this cellar, after which they volunteer fire brigade in Slovenia was Slovenian ethnologist Dr Niko Kuret Easter eggs can also be given as gifts at horseradish, cakes and of course the offers a view of the entire region. Other can receive it back as a loan as necessary, founded in Metlika in 1869. Also worth wrote that ‘richly decorated Easter eggs the social events and dances that follow traditional Belokranjska pogača (Bela notable natural features of Bela Krajina recording their consumption on a special visiting in Metlika is the Kambič Gallery, are a genuine Slovenian custom that is Easter. Clearly these decorated Easter Krajina flatbread), which has recently been are the many birch forests and stands of tally stick. Of course, visitors are also with over 200 paintings from the private not found among either the Germanic or eggs are too beautiful to be used as an granted the European Union’s Traditional birch trees with bracken undergrowth. invited to taste the wine. Another sight collection of Dr Vinko Kambič (1920– the Romance peoples.’ With regard to the ordinary Easter dish and eaten as eggs, Speciality Guaranteed designation.

46 April 2010 April 2010 47 Photo Darinka Mladenovič