The Sea Of

The sea of lost time

There are two places in Peru where pleasure rubs shoulders with history: Colán and Cabo Blanco. The coastline that borders the desert department of Piura is redolent with serene beauty. Pure white sands, solitary beaches, a balmy sea, epic sunsets, fishermen about their tasks, local cooking based on seafood, and a sense of tranquillity not to be found on beaches anywhere else on Earth: these are sufficient arguments to explain the fascination that those in the know feel for these shores, the only ones in Peru that enjoy a tropical climate. What is more, Colán and Cabo Blanco are two spots in a region that hide a great deal of history.

Those who camp out on any of the endless beaches between fishing coves to take photographs of Nature, light bonfires at sunset and wander along these miles of solitude, often dive into the warm sea for a refreshing dip at night, their bodies gleaming like fish in the silver moonlight. While winter has stripped the rest of the Peruvian coastline of its warmth, the sun continues to tan visitors at Cabo Blanco and Colán, far from the melancholic mists that shroud the south coast. The temperature in summer can hit 35°C, and still maintains a spring climate during winter, meaning everyone wears shortsleeves all year-long. The ocean is responsible for these balmy winters. Off the cove of Cabo Blanco, the western-most tip of South America, two sea currents collide: the cold Humboldt, which flows north from the Antarctic, and the warm El Niño current, which wells up from the Ecuadorian sea. Cabo Blanco (given its name, White Cape, by the Spaniards for the white guano that streak the shore bluffs) marks the limits of the Peruvian sea that off 92% of the Peruvian coastline is rich in plankton, and therefore shoals of anchovy and sardine. Here, the cold, green ocean waters give way to a turquoise tropical sea teeming with huge marlins, manta rays and tuna which devour the shoals of smaller fish brought here by the southern current. The size of the local marine wildlife has made the area one of the finest locations for deep-sea fishing. From the terrace of the legendary hotel Cabo Blanco Fishing Club, south of the cove, one can gaze out at the endless clash of dark waves with the light blue tropical sea, waters that do not mix, but run parallel from there to Asia. At times, one current pushes back the other, and the locals have no idea which sea they will look out at when they open their windows the next morning. The wind gusts freely, and appears to blow away all the bad memories. In the 1950s and 1960s, Cabo Blanco became the paradise of deep-sea fishermen, bent on pitting their sturdy fishing rods against the big tropical fish, whether marlin, tuna or shark. In the 1930s, a British plantation owner called Stockes, based in the nearby oil camp of Talara, caught marlins weighing from 700-800 lb. In those days, British engineers worked drilling for crude oil along the coast. Years, later, the steamships of the Graceland shipping line brought European visitors, who were captivated by the place: exciting fishing for huge fish species competed with watching for whales, dolphins and manta rays. Spurred on by the size of the catch, in 1951 10 Americans and Peruvian Enrique Pardo Heeren founded the Cabo Blanco Fishing Club, a long pavilion squatting on a hill overlooking the sea, and with access to a superb beach, where the best fishermen began to flock, bringing with them the international jetset. Author Ernest Hemingway spent many fishing seasons by the sea, with a large glass of pisco by his elbow. The enormous fish described in his novel The Old Man and the Sea is said to have been based on the writer's experiences during his visits to this part of Peru. John Wayne, Marilyn Monroe, Bob Hope, Doris Day, María Félix, Joe Dimaggio, Dominguín and Nelson Rockefeller are just a few of the big names who touched base at Cabo Blanco. That era logged world records that are unbeaten today. North American Alfred Gossell caught the largest black marlin ever registered: 1,560 lb. Fellow American Kimberly Wiss still holds the record for the largest marlin ever caught by a woman: 1,525 lb. Marlin is a generic name for several kinds of large fish which are related to the sailfish and the swordfish. Fast swimmers that live mostly in warm waters, the marlin features a long nasal bone structure in its upper jaw, forming a long and rounded sword. The Cabo Blanco Fishing Club holds 10 world records. But in 1970, the club shut down due to the hostile environment for North Americans in Peru created by military ruler Gen. Juan Velasco Alvarado. His military regime went on to nationalize most foreign companies in Peru, stripping Cabo Blanco of its tourists. In the United States alone, there are some 40 million sports fishermen, including professionals and amateurs, while there are more than 100 million fishermen all over the world. However, the club was reopened by Andrés Ocampo in 1986, and is well on its way to recovering its former prestige. Fishermen from all over the world flock here once more, hunting for the big fish and strolling down the hallways of the club hotel which are filled with memorable photographs and trophies, as if it was a fishing shrine. The big fish continue biting, and sports fishermen can hire a boat, crew and captain to spend a fantastic day at sea. One can also hire underwater fishing gear and launches to explore the ocean depths. The cove is reached down a rutted road from El Alto, a town of 3,000 inhabitants which lives off the oil industry. At one point along the way, between two oil pumps appear a pair of signs, one indicating the road to the cove and the other, which leads further south, points to the fishing club. The first road runs around a small hill and winds its way down to the fishing village and its dock, where one can find the Merlín Hotel. Trawlers and other fishing boats bob on the waves, while further out to sea one can see the oilrigs. A smell of oil is on the breeze. One can also spot refrigeration trucks amidst the ambiance of a ghost town, filled with rusting machinery and piping, living on the memories of a past that is unlikely to return. This is not a common tourist spot, but rather the humble center of activity for dozens of men who make a living off the rich Peruvian sea. Apart from the hotels, there are few establishments here: a police station, a couple of stores, a factory and a couple of restaurants. Looking south, at the foot of the hill, one can spot the Panic Point beach, where surfers have pitched their tents. Against the wind snake long waves that are only for surfing enthusiasts.

Colán Further south, 45 minutes from the city of Piura and 20 minutes from the port of Paita, lies an even older town: San Lucas de Colán. Colán was the name of a local chieftain who ruled over the area until the arrival of the Spanish Conquerors. The Tallanes were the first recorded settlers in the region, overrun by the Mochica culture and centuries later by the Incas led by ruler Inca Yupanqui, 40 years before the Spanish arrived. Francisco Pizarro arrived in the region in 1532 and founded the first Spanish city in South America Tangarará, with the name of San Miguel, today the prosperous city of Piura. Colán is home to the church of San Lucas. Built from sea stone in 1536 by Colán locals, it lies on top of a platform dating back to the Chimú-Inca era. The church occupies an area of 1,100 square meters, and its crumbling façade does not make it any less attractive. Its status as the first Catholic church in South America gave it a unique role in the history of the Church. La Esmeralda de Colán, Piura's foremost beach resort, lies just 10 minutes away. Like the workers camp in Lobitos, near Talara, the houses in La Esmeralda de Colán are built on wooden pilings, so they can stand near the sea without the local inhabitants fearing the breakers, although the sea is generally tranquil. The houses are built of wood and feature superb balconies and airy rooms. Other rows of houses are built from brick and feature lovely palm tree-lined gardens. Together, they create a local style worth a look. Visitors can find some first-rate seafood restaurants here. Cebiche de mero (sea bass marinated in lemon juice) is a favorite local dish. After lunch, there's nothing like a snooze in the shade of the palm trees, as the overhead sun beats down mercilessly. Summer visitors, well-off families from Piura, Chiclayo and Lima, play racquet games in the sand, while young couples prefer to stroll along the beaches at night. Colán boasts good tourist infrastructure. Some of the residents rent out rooms or even homes, although there is also a hotel with bungalows on the south side of the beach, called Las Palmeras. The only thing to watch out for are the stingrays, so mind where you step when you wade out into the sea. Colán deserves to be a happy memory.