Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/15-17 Registrar of Newspapers Licenced to post without prepayment for India under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-506/15-17 Publication: 15th & 28th of every month Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS INSIDE • Short ‘N’ Snappy • Cauvery water dispute • The surfing champion • Besant to Vasantha • Madras in indigenous history

Vol. XXVI No. 13 MUSINGS October 16-31, 2016 for World Heritage status? (By A Special Correspondent)

he last month saw print and social media report on a city- Tbased think tank demanding that Mylapore be given world heritage status. While this is not a tag that is given out for the asking and, so, is not likely to happen any time soon, the question is does Mylapore deserve such a status and, more importantly, can it live up to the discipline that such an accreditation demands? If, indeed, it is the dominant presence of the temple at the heart of the locality that has spurred this suggestion, then there are sev- eral others that can compete for this even within . Take A beautiful picture by Dr. VIJAY SRIRAM of sunset over the – NOT seen from the aircraft above but for instance the Meenakshi Amman temple in Madurai. Would from the north bank. that not qualify better? Or, for that matter, Srirangam? Both of these shrines have created an ecosystem around them that Lessons to learn from Kolkata depend on the central attrac- he Durga Puja festival in in place to ensure that the idea and helped people plan the December Music Festival tions for survival. There is, con- TKolkata has just come to people are not put to much in- their visit itineraries. or the Mylapore Festival. It sequently, a lot of effort on an end. The city witnessed convenience on the roads. That These lessons were not could begin with special public maintaining tradition. Even the around 36,000 different pandals is where the Government learnt in a day. Just last year a transport arrangements. This commercial establishments being put up, for the duration comes in. It ensures that public particularly sensational pandal was a feature for years during around have realised this and of five days, all in public places transport operates in full right made a huge section of the city the December festival of the are doing what little they can to – street corners, parks and side- through the nights on the im- out of bounds owing to the 1970s when buses would ply participate, something that walks. portant days of the festival. It numbers that visited it. There from point to point till late at cannot be said of Mylapore. These temporary structures also cordons off entire streets, have been fire accidents and night. This can be easily re- True, the temple does form a and their contents, chiefly icons making them accessible only by stampedes. But with a vigilant vived. Another aspect is to focus here as well. But there is and friezes, cost a whopping Rs foot. There are certain hotspots administration taking care of make certain areas accessible lot more to the place than just 600 crore in a rough estimate, only on foot. After all, when that. There are multiple reli- making it one of the biggest re- we can cordon off entire areas gions that claim a share in its ligious events celebrated in G by A Special Correspondent for VIP movement, why can antiquity. That again is an at- public. The five-day extrava- the same not be done in the tribute that towns such as ganza witnessed a huge degree name of culture? The four Nagapattinam and Trichy can of public-private partnership in – some well known locations such pain points, even the driv- Mada Streets during Navaratri lay claim to. Can Mylapore making it a success and ensur- where some star pandals come ing rain this year could not or Arupathu Moovar would stand up to be counted? ing it passed off peacefully. up year after year that thou- cause much dislocation. The make for a great attraction. The next question is, what There is much that a city like sands of people go to see. These benefits are evident to all – There will be an increase in exactly of its heritage has Chennai can learn from this areas have queue systems in there has been a marked rise in business for the commercial Mylapore retained? In terms of experience. place, by means of enclosed tourist attendance. The restau- establishments all around. For its antiquity, there is not much. One of the big advantages walkways and an ample police rants and hotels have seen good celebrations such as Madras Not even the present that Durga Puja has over any- presence to make sure people patronage. The heritage spots Week or the December festival Kapaliswarar shrine or for that thing even remotely like it in use only these routes and not in the city have seen a marked we could have printed maps matter the San Thomé basilica, Chennai is that it is a public the main roads. increase in visitors. and guides to help people get can claim a physical connect to event, celebrated all across The private aspect comes in It is true that Chennai does around. a very ancient past. This is Kolkata. It, therefore, becomes the organisations of these not have a citywide festival, With Tamil Nadu topping partly due to historical reasons a time when shops, establish- pandals and also the provision barring perhaps, on a limited the nation in terms of tourist but also in part due to rampant ments and schools close, of amenities – first aid, access scale, Madras Week. But there inflow and Chennai taking the modernisation that has taken thereby bringing down regular for the disabled and the feeding is much that the Government lead within the State, even such place within the shrines. traffic by a significant percent- of the public. The publication of can do to make an impact with small steps could make a big Among the older but less- age. However, there are several a map, giving the locations of events such as the Arupathu impact. Is anyone in the admin- (Continued on page 8) regulations that still need to be prominent pandals was a great Moovar festival at Mylapore, istration thinking about this? CMYK 2 October 16-31, 2016 Some oil When MMM goes to college he Man from Madras of the marble regulation pen reminded by that, the Dean on Cauvery T Musings is a sucker for stand that he had clutched as a leaned across to MMM and these things – invite him to weapon of defence, was not said that it would be best if he, speak and he will accept at impressed. Why had MMM MMM spoke in Tamil as that once. His good lady, also come, he asked. Did MMM not is what the students would un- waters known as She Who Must Be know that he the Dean did not derstand better. MMM agreed. he Cauvery Water dispute has a long and chequered history. Obeyed, believes that this is meet anyone without an ap- There was still no sign of the some kind of an addiction, a pointment? And if MMM was coconut water. TTamil Nadu lacks a perennial river and, until 1974, the State complete dependence on the seeking admission for his ward The professor’s speech of had a lion’s share of the Cauvery waters. This was reduced when microphone and a large-ish then he, the Dean, would like welcome was in English. Then expanded its consumption of water by constructing a audience looking up at the po- to inform him, MMM, that it came the Dean’s turn. He number of dams and expanding its canal system. When the 50- dium. In all her years of play- was rather too late. By then, would be brief, he said, for he year-long earlier agreement ended in 1974, the issue heated up. ing Simon Legree to MMM’s what MMM in the dim light was certain that everyone had Chauvinistic attitudes of political parties in both the States and an Uncle Tom, the good lady has took to be a potted palm be- gathered to hear the great indifferent Centre contributed to the issue smouldering for over cured him of many things. came animated and revealed it- OOO who had come to speak four decades. In the absence of agreement on the part of the politi- Making strange noises while self as a peon. MMM turned to at the college despite his busy cal leadership, the only course left was to take recourse to a judicial eating, not blocking the mouth him and asked for the profes- schedule. The moment MMM remedy. while yawning, and resisting sor who had called him to the heard that, his heart sank into Tamil Nadu’s former Chief Minister, M.G. Ramachandran, the urge to sing at all odd hours college in the first place. The his shoes. Experience has maintained cordial relations with the leaders of the Centre and the being are just a few (MMM is peon left to find the person and shown MMM that any speaker neighbouring States. Remember the huge success of his efforts to certain that the good lady can in the meanwhile, peace of who says he/she will be brief get Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Maharashtra to agree to add several more to the list). some kind having been re- means exactly the opposite. But this tendency to accept stored, MMM explained to the This was entirely true of the providing 15 tmcft of water from the Krishna river to quench the invitations to speak is one that Dean that he was the chief Dean as well. Speaking at thirst of ? It was a rare and unique occasion to even she, despite her iron hand guest for the prize distribution. length (in English), he em- witness the Prime Minister of the country, Indira Gandhi, presiding in the velvet glove, has been The man, who clearly had no barked on a long description of over a meeting addressed by Chief Ministers of five States and the unable to rid MMM of. And so idea as to who had been in- the happenings at the institu- Union Territory of Puducherry! we have MMM hurrying from vited, immediately turned on a tion in the past one year. He The DMK was represented in the three coalition governments speech to speech, rather like smile that revealed several spoke of honourable ministers, of the 1990s. DMK supremo Karunanidhi did enjoy clout with the politicians at election time. more teeth than the usual MPs, MLAs, bureaucrats and NDA I government. Under the UPA I, Tamil Nadu had 13 What is the point of this number. He asked MMM to others who had paid visits to ministers in the Central cabinet handling vital portfolios including extensive preamble you won- take a seat. Would MMM like the institution. He paid the Finance. Sadly, this clout was not used effectively to get over the der. MMM can also see the to have coffee or tea or coco- usual encomiums to the power Cauvery issue. Chief gritting his teeth as he, nut water, he enquired. MMM that is, failing which no doubt, green pen in hand, proceeds to opted for the last named. as MMM reflected, he the G read the above tract. “Get on In the meanwhile, the invit- dean, ran the risk of his power S. Viswanathan with it,” is probably what the ing professor came rushing in being turned off at the main, The AIADMK has not maintained cordial relation with the NDA and UPA I & II, due to its arch rival DMK being part of these governments. The relationship was adversarial. SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY There was the other political factor of Karnataka electing Congress or BJP governments. Both the parties are non-entities in Tamil Nadu. BJP has no base in the Sate. In the present Modi Chief mutters on such occa- and, in a highly flustered voice, rather like the college’s elec- sions, and so MMM will get on did the formal introductions. tricity. The coconut water was cabinet, there is just a Minister of State from Tamil Nadu. Congress with it. The reason why MMM Surely the Dean had read what yet to make its appearance. has been riding piggy back on the DMK or the AIADMK and has brought all this up is a prize- MMM wrote about, said the MMM found his thoughts also been riven with intense rivalry among its different leaders. This giving event at a college that professor to the Dean, accom- wandering. He realised situation made for the Centre being more zealous in wooing its specialises in architecture and panying it with a winning smile vaguely that the Dean was vote bank in Karnataka. planning, that he was invited and an arch look that indicated singing his (the Dean’s) glories The original award given in 1991 was not acceptable to both to. The professor who called that the Dean had better say in the third person. The stu- the Sates. In the absence of any political clout with the Centre, MMM was an acquaintance of ‘yes’. The Dean got the cue and dents were also in a stupor- time and again, Tamil Nadu has in recent years resorted to seeking longstanding and MMM could nodded his head vigorously, like state. After several more a judicial remedy. not refuse. On the appointed adding that it was a great plea- minutes of the Dean’s speech, After 16 long years the final award was given by the Cauvery day, MMM drove up at the ap- sure to have finally met up with the man finally sat down, Water Dispute Tribunal (CWDT) in 2007. This provided 419 pointed hour and after, as is the great LLL. stating that the college student tmcft for Tamil Nadu, 270 tmcft for Karnataka, 30 tmcft for usual in such places, having union leader would read out and 7 tmcft for Puducherry. explained the reason why he The long wait the bio-data of Mr QQQ, who had come to a most sceptical actually needs no introduc- The Centre, for reasons mentioned above, did not bother to security officer who had never “MMM,” corrected theprof. tion. And, by the way, you notify the award in the Gazette till 2013 and constitute the Cauvery been kept informed of MMM’s The dean apologised to The guessed it, no sign of the coco- Management Board. This is manifestly a serious dereliction of visit, he entered the august Man from Madras Musings and nut water. responsibility on the part of the Centre and its failure to resolve portals of the institution. thereafter referred to him as If you are still awake at this the decade-long issue. Staggered into the place NNN right through. The stage, MMM will let you get We cite the experience of smooth resolution of such inter-State would be more appropriate. power, he said, had just been on with it by stating briefly water disputes earlier through the constitution of statutory authori- For one, the steps were not of turned off owing to some tech- (and he means that in the full- ties. The Bhakra-Beas Management Board (BBMB) was formed to uniform rise and tread, which nical glitch. It was a good thing, est sense), that MMM spoke ensure fair allocation of water from the Beas, Sutlej and Ravi rivers was rather surprising for a col- he added, that the prize-giving in Tamil and was well to the States of Rajasthan, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Haryana, lege that specialises in archi- was fixed at the open courtyard received. Just as he began, a Delhi and Chandigarh UT. BBMB supplies 28 million acre ft of tecture. MMM, having lifted and not inside the auditorium. miracle took place – a micro- water for irrigation and drinking, including 12.50 million acre ft his foot to the extent that the MMM baulked at this, for what phone working on battery was earlier steps had risen, found with the temperature being delivered to MMM and so he for agricultural land in the four States. It has 28 power generation what it was and the fact that he units with an installed capacity of 2865 MW. These plants gener- himself stubbed on the last was heard. The coconut one which was much taller, was getting thirstier than the water, however, never came. ate 10,000 million units to 14,000 million units of cheap power and so shot forward as if from Thanjavur region, this looked and supply it at just 20 paise per unit. a cannon. Having clutched at like torture of the first water. Tailpiece Likewise, after the Narmada Water Dispute Tribunal (NWDT) a potted plant he found that he Anyway, MMM, Dean and was constituted by the Government of India, there has been agree- had fast-forwarded into the professor trooped into the open The speech concluded, it was ment over sharing of water by the riparian States. Against this Dean’s office where every- courtyard. The head table was time for The Man from Madras background, the direction of the Supreme Court to the Govern- thing was shrouded in dark- on a platform and down below, Musings to flee. But not before ment to set up the Cauvery Management Board within four weeks ness. It was as though a solar in the well of the open space, wanting to use the toilet. This should leave the management to experts who would allocate water eclipse was in progress. The the students sat at the far end, seemingly innocuous request as per the judgment of Supreme Court. Hopefully this would ensure good officer was at his desk, no doubt keeping as much dis- had the Dean disturbed. With a lasting solution to this dispute. thinking dark thoughts no tance as possible between much hesitation he informed Farmers in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka continue to raise water- doubt and on seeing MMM themselves and the speakers. MMM that the toilets of the guzzling crops like rice and sugarcane and insist on multiple crop- bound in with what appeared The coconut water had not building were pitch dark when to be murderous intent he was come as yet. the power fails, as they were ping. In the context of much higher demand for pulses, oilseeds, The meeting got to order provided with no windows. corn and vegetables, which demand much less water, a systematic naturally startled. MMM introduced himself. with the singing of the obliga- Would MMM mind taking a campaign to move away from paddy and sugarcane should be at- The Dean, who had stopped tory song on the glory of the candle along? tempted. Wisdom demands making the best use of available water palpitating by then and let go local language. As though – MMM – (Courtesy: Industrial Economist). October 16-31, 2016 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 The Jesuit seekers of knowledge n my article published in Madras Musings on September 16th Tannery effects Iand October 1st, I have mentioned only some of the Jesuits who lived and worked in Madras and in Tamil Nadu. But then rof. M.S. Swaminathan has these individuals are not to be seen in isolation. They belong to a Pstated (MM, October 1st) corporate body, The Society of Jesus. So, some general comments “The conflict between environ- on their work in India are in order. ment and development can be Today the secular historians are highly critical about the ended only if we can stop eco- missionaries in general and the Jesuits in particular. One histo- nomic greed.” rian calls them simply the “Jesuit travellers” and groups them as those who traveled in Asia for inspiring Asia and those who In an Award passed by the traveled in Asia for discovering Asia. Loss of Ecology (Prevention of By ‘inspiring’ is meant to preach the Gospel values, studying pollution and Payments of local languages, making Christian literature available in these Compensation) Authority languages, while appreciating local cultures and religions. By ‘dis- constituted by the Central gov- covering’ is understood the traveling to the hitherto unexplored ernment on the orders of the geographical regions of Asia, noting down the astronomical Supreme Court in the Writ locations of various cities and towns, jotting down the happen- Petition filed by Vellore Citi- ings of their surroundings, contributing to the body of scientific zens’ Welfare Forum, it was re- knowledge of Asia. This type of transference of knowledge and method of study vealed that hundreds of dyeing was a part of the larger process of discovering and constructing units had polluted the Noyyal India in a colonial setting, in which the role of the Jesuits was river, a tributary of the Cauvery, significant. But after the colonial experience of the subjugated Bouchet’s Map. and had damaged 28,49,816 nations, the term “discovery” becomes a loaded one. The de Goes (1562-1607), Francis de Azevedo (1578-1660), Antonio hectares of fertile farm lands in so-called ‘discovery’ led to a particular way of constructing the de Andrada (1580-1634), Johann Grueber (1623-1680), Albert seven taluks of Coimbatore, image of the ‘discovered’ people. Through their scholarly D’Orville (1621-1662) and Ippolito Desideri (1684-1733). They Erode and Karur Districts. An researches and ethnographic writings a new India emerged in the have left valuable sources for an ethnographical and geographical Award was also passed by the minds of the Europeans and also created a new self-understand- study of India. Ecology Authority against 547 ing among the Indians themselves. Jean-Venant Bouchet (1655-1732) was responsible for the Though the categories of Jesuit ‘inspirers’ and ‘discoverers’ tannery owners for having dam- first dependable map of the interior of the southern peninsula. overlap in the case of many Jesuits, their contribution to litera- Bouchet, who arrived in India in February 1689, covered the aged thousands of hectares of ture and science has been substantial and significant. The fertile lands which became Coromandel coast on foot, made astronomical observations at substantial number of Jesuit literary contributors include Henry Pondicherry and prepared maps and sketches. His map of the unproductive, affecting the live- Henriques (1520-1600), Thomas Stephens (1549-1619), southern peninsula was published in 1737 and was followed by lihood of 29,193 individual Roberto de Nobili (1577-1656), Joseph Beschi (1680-1747), his famous Carte de l’ Inde in 1752. farmers. Ernest Hanxleden (1689-1732), Heinrich Roth (1620-1668), Bouchet, a French Jesuit, was known as Sanjvi Nathar in The affected farmers and in- Jean Francois Pons (1698-1752), Gaston Coeurdoux (1691- Tamil. Four of his works in Tamil are still available. Jnana Sanjivi dividuals were awarded com- 1779), Jean Calmette (1693-1739) and Joseph Tieffenthaler was one of them. (1710-1785). pensation for the damage of In Madras and the Tamil regions, where they worked, the During the period between the 16th and 19th Centuries, Jesuits played a great role at a particular time of history. They their land, but it was very mea- priority was given to practical astronomy, due to the increasing gre when compared to the ac- have left a large amount of writings in Tamil, which form part of navigational needs of those in search of new territories for comm- the Tamil literary heritage, which is acknowledged by the schol- tual loss suffered by them. erce and colonisation. Navigation required accurate maps of ars. I wrote to Prof. harbours, coasts and islands, which in turn necessitated accurate They may not remain in the “communicative memory” of the M.S. Swaminathan pointing observations of the position of certain stars and planets and the Tamil people which goes back perhaps to some 80 years or so at out the heavy loss of crops due determination of longitudes and latitudes of locations. Many the most, but in the “cultural memory” which goes back to several missionaries were cartographers and had the necessary equipment centuries. They have found a place in Tamil tradition. to the pollution caused by in their hands. There were over 25 Jesuits in expeditions to tannery effluents and in a letter various parts of India, Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and China during – Dr. Anand Amaladss dated 17-11-1989 he stated, the 17th and 18th Centuries. Notable among them were Bento Dhyana Ashram “My dear Subrahmanian, I thank you for your letter of No- Coimbatore, released a report Candidates needed All the election promises of Candidates when elected vember 14th. I am grateful to you stating 35,000 to 40,000 hect- the candidates must be well must have adequate time and ven though the High Court for the papers you have sent. I ares of fertile farmland were de- documented/recorded and pub- interest to meet and listen to has cancelled the civic polls, agree with you that we must stroyed by tannery effluents. E lished and tested after their voters’ problems and issues. what MM said in its October 1st find methods of preventing Not much has changed. election/selection, periodically, They must have time for voters issue remains valied. damage to agricultural lands and published for the benefit of and share their contact details P.S. Subrahmanian What do voters expect from from tannery effluents. I shall do the public/voter. Target vs with voters through newspapers “Ranga Villa” candidates, be it from civic bod- whatever I can in this matter.” actual performance must be and should visit voters once in No 8, Second Main Road ies, state legislatures or parlia- On 6-3-1992 the Tamil visible in a transparent/quanti- a fortnight and inform them C.I.T. Colony ment? Nadu Agricultural University, fiable manner what good they have done thus Chennai 600 004 A political party must ensure far and what they would do that its candidate has a passion The Marketing principle, before their next visit to serve the public without “Never promise what you can- The candidate must be free OUR ADDRESSES expectations and a hidden not deliver and always deliver from vested interests and hun- agenda. more than what was promised For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt ger for popularity and power of receipts etc.: Chennai Heritage, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, The candidate’s track record and more than customer expec- Westcott Road, , Chennai 14. of public service must be closely tations”, must be adopted by Dr. H.K. Lakshman Rao the candidate. Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the examined before putting up the 33, Krishnapuri Chennai 600 028 editor can be sent via email to editor@madras candidate for election. The candidate’s capability/ musings.com. If the candidate is seeking ability to serve voters must be Jumble resolved election for a second or more quantified and be data-based, Those who wish to intimate change of address can also do times, his or her performance in not opinion-based. n the last issue of Madras so provided the subscription number is quoted. the previous periods must be IMusings the Printer’s Devil For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other The candidate’s money closely audited power must be minimised and had scrambled the first para- circulation matters: Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani South- The candidate must be the hunger for popularity/power graph of Partab Ramchand’s ern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 capable and reliable and under- must be diminished. ‘September memory’. This is 006. On editorial matters: The Editor, Madras Musings, No. stand his/her role and the how it should have read. We 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai importance of public service. The candidate must under- regret the error. 600 014. The candidate must have an stand that voters keep watching –The Editor his/her performances through- No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters adequate knowledge and feel Thirty years ago, on September out. received will be sent from these addresses every couple of for the voters’ problems and 22, 1986, at M.A. Chidam- days to the persons concerned and you will get an answer issues and attempt to solve There must be appropriate baram Stadium in , from them to your queries reasonably quickly. Strange as it them during the period of his/ remedial course of action for Maninder Singh is given out may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ approach, we will be her tenure. defaulting councillors and this lbw at 5.18 p.m. and the Test able to help you faster and disappoint appoint you less. The candidate must never must be made known to the between India and Australia promise while campaigning candidate when seeking ends in a tie – only the second – THE EDITOR what he/she cannot fulfill. election. such result in 1052 matches. 4 MADRAS MUSINGS October 16-31, 2016 October 16-31, 2016 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 Making the ugly walls Murthy – the surfing champion rom an undistinguished boy help or a loan, which he could Fwho surfed the waves using have, given the excellent rapport of Madras... flotsam and styrofoam boards, to he had with most of them. In- st becoming a champion surf- stead, he just enjoyed surfing and e are in the 21 Century. There are many public walls, pillars and beams. Swachh Bharat boarder, Murthy Megavan has hanging out with them without gadgets, whatsapps and several other W also means clean walls and pillars. come a long way. He is at the any strings attached. modes to communicate messages. Yet, painting on We, the general public, do not know whether the walls by political parties and pasting of posters the Corporation has any control over this menace centre of an upcoming surf An impressed Yotam Agam by politicians, film-makers and individuals that makes the city look ugly. No other country, I school serving as a source of in- offered to make a video about continue as an eyesore in Chennai. These believe, has allowed the use of walls of private spiration for aspiring surfers, Murthy to share on YouTube — communicaters are yet to come out of these primi- individuals to such abuse. trainers, community builders and a video that went on to win the tive ways of conveying messages. Why do the If the throwing of household wastes in the humanity – lifting the lives of young fisherman a lot of fans, movie-makers indulge in pasting large posters on corner of the street is one kind of attack on the many, like a rising tide does. both online and on the shore. the walls, electricity junction boxes, telephone cleanliness of the city, these posters and paintings India has a long coastline and Soon, the print media fol- junction boxes and even road signboards, as if are another kind of ‘acid attack’. plenty of beaches. Citizens of the lowed with their own articles people go to films only after looking at these Another menace is fixing of ‘No Parking’ country, and visitors too, have posters? about this gem of a sportsman boards with the advertisers’ names on the gates of daily access to many parts of the Magazines have now followed the trend. private apartments and buildings. There are a and the benefactor hidden on Instead of displaying their weekly or monthly minimum five to six boards of various shapes and coast along the Arabian Sea and Chennai’s shores. These articles magazine posters in the newsmarts, they blatantly sizes hung on each gate. Other than advertising the . Yet, it is rare in the local dailies got the atten- paste them on the walls of houses of unknown without permission the services or products, these to hear about water-sports en- tion of many locals who wanted people, making the walls ugly. boards serve no purpose. The irony is more thusiasts in this cricket-frenzied to give the sport a try. Kovalam There are posters to announce the marriage vehicles are parked in front of the gates than country. This is exactly why the beach, which is about 40 Murthy Megavan. or death of someone in some unknown colony. before! story of Murthy Megavan is so The huge pillars below the flyovers are also not kilometres from Chennai, gradu- The Chennai Corporation authorities should remarkable. ally saw an increase in their num- ating dangerous rips but it also with a sense of social service to left free. Posters of all political parties dominate do something to eliminate this ugly use of public Born in the late 1970s into a them. At one of the flyovers, the beams bear the bers on the weekends. means that a surfer can surf a the community. The teachers at spaces. A clean city is what local residents and poor fishing family living in a political leader’s name and face prominently and visitors look for. Visiting surfers came to relatively uncrowded peak. Point regularly lead Murthy holds a surf board with Arun Vasu and Jhonty Rhodes on his right and T.M. Krishna on his left. the local area leaders’ names are painted in Some years ago, there was an ad by the Corpo- small settlement on Kovalam Kovalam beach looking for Built with modern facilities, beach clean-ups. In the recent colours that hit you in the face. ration of Madras, saying ‘Be Proud of Madras’. (Covelong) beach near Chennai Murthy. They loved surfing with the Covelong Point Surfing past, they also organised health (not to be confused with Do political parties think that the public is The editor of The Mail then wrote: ‘We are proud, Hebner set up a surf school Kovalam beach, like the rest of to surf there with our sons Jakob him and sharing their stories. School stands testimony to the camps and eye check-ups for the admiring this artwork, or the huge banners that Kovalam beach, Kerala), Murthy in spite of the Corporation!’. that combined spirituality with the Coramandel coast on the In- and Viktor. I remember the sec- More importantly, they loved his saying: “Follow your passion and locals who have no access to reli- block the pavements, while standing on the road? dropped out of school in order to surfing, consequently winning dian Ocean, was hit by a tsunami ond visit, when this young Indian story. people follow you.” The school able health care. They have a no One Traffic Ramasamy is not enough for Charukesi provide for his family. His father himself the nickname ‘Surfing in 2004. Having lived through villager (Murthy) ran towards us A prominent businessman offers a lovely view of the sea, a smoking, no drugs, no alcohol Chennai to fight against this menace of targetting [email protected] left the family due to a feud and Swami.’ (or perhaps, surfed through) that with an old surfboard under his and sports aficionado in clean and promising restaurant policy to propagate clean and Murthy had to shoulder the re- The surf school Hebner natural disaster right at his door- arm. He was an incredible surf Chennai, Arun Vasu, also took that serves up daily catches in healthy sporting habits. They sponsibility of providing for his started in 2004 in Mangalore was step, Murthy devoted much of enthusiast. Mind set on surfing, notice of Murthy’s talent. delectable dishes, and a few host a spectacular three-day grandmother, mother and sister. a key milestone in India’s surf his time towards community we shared a lot of waves with Murthy was already on a winning rooms to accommodate surfers eclectic music and yoga festival ... look better – This was not unusual then. movement. Cleverly combining building. He enrolled at a local Murthy and an increasing num- spree then. He had won coveted coming from far and wide. In less that brings budding musicians, Many youth in his place and with spirituality with surfing, the Surf NGO and offered his time to im- than three years, Covelong Point artists and sportspeople together his background would have done Swami brought a significant prove the lives of the not-so- has had over 300 students. The against the backdrop of the the same. with streetscape ideas number of surfers from the world privileged around his home. school has full-time staff to teach ocean, sun and sand. But it was unusual that the over to India. The surf move- His family had very little but G kayaking, kite surfing, and wind The school sees a stream of young son of a fisherman didn’t by Uma Muthuraaman he grandly-planned streetscape for Luz ment has been growing since, al- he says there were many around surfing, besides surfing itself. surfers from Germany, Japan, Is- Church Road – wide pavements, central limit himself to catching fish. He T though slowly. The best places to him who had even less — this Every single teacher in the rael, France, and the US to keep pavement median, displays of heritage spots of wanted to ride the waves. surf in India are Mangalore, motivated him to be a giver. school is a local fisherman, hand- it busy throughout the year. Surf Luz and Mylapore, special lighting and street Kovalam is essentially a fish- Kovalam in Kerala, Goa, In the years that followed picked and trained by Murthy. schools like Covelong Point alter furniture – is now history. ing village although it is known ber of young village boys who places in many Asian surfing Chennai, Pondicherry, and the Murthy’s tryst with the Surfing These boys – Murthy’s boys – the city’s (and even the nation’s) Some Mylaporeans challenged the idea, for its beach culture as well. The were surfing with anything they competitions in Sri Lanka, India islands of the Andamans. India’s Swami, more and more people now excel at national competi- beach culture in significant especially the central median plan and Chennai daily catch Murthy brought in could find to catch a wave – tim- and Indonesia, which were hotly top surf schools are in these discovered Chennai’s surf spots tions! ways. Corporation dropped the plan the next day, was just about enough to feed his ber boards, styrofoam boards – contested by people from around places. Every school offers train- — some well-to-do locals, some What sets Murthy’s team In this growing surf culture leaving no space for other people to debate the family. He had nothing in excess anything that would float. These the world. He had a growing net- whole project. ing and accommodation. The visiting Australians, a few Israe- apart from other surf schools in there are many who ride a wave to equip himself with in order to talented youth were missing a work of international fans. trend these days is to combine lis, Americans, and Europeans. the country is its service to the and some more who can turn the Today, the wide pavements on either side of indulge his passion for surfing. few decent boards. Fortunately, Arun Vasu decided to invest yoga on the beach before and af- Every single surfer who came to community. Murthy intends to tide in their favour, but very few the road are being hijacked by hawkers. Some So, wooden planks and flotsam we met Yotam Agam at that in Murthy. This was a huge turn- spots remain. And one such spot on the north ter surfing to enhance mind- Kovalam beach noticed Murthy attract sports-minded (as op- like Murthy who lift the lives of served as his first surfboards. He same time. Yotam organised a ing point for the surfer. The pa- pavement, opposite Amrutanjan and next to body coordination. for two reasons: he was a remark- posed to money-minded) people others. taught himself to surf by trying proper surfboard as a present for tron generously offered to build Nalli’s, is being designed. It will host a Murthy had the chance to ably dexterous surfer and he was and trying again. Murthy. That was the start of a surf school around Murthy’s neighbourhood map and photos of local heritage meet the Surfing Swami at a devoted social worker. He had In the beginning, he didn’t Murthy and the Covelong Point talent and to support it until the and have street furniture. Work by contractors of Kovalam beach, Chennai, in a genuine concern for people and the civic body has begun. know any surfing techniques. surf saga…” school was able to generate its CHENNAI HERITAGE 2001. He borrowed the Swami’s was helping build a self-reliant Nor did he have a trainer. He Like a true sportsman, for ev- own running costs. Architect Kavitha Selvaraj who designed the surf board and took only a few community despite his own poor No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 simply aligned his body with the ery new surfboard he received as So, Covelong Point Surf Luz Church Road re-design project hopes local minutes to adapt to it. In just a economic background. residents can further enrich this spot. “People can plank to ride a wave. a gift, Murthy passed on his old School opened its doors in No- I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List short time he rode every swell Naturally, with this ability to line the wall with potted plants, for example,” she He would practice for hours surfboard to an aspiring surfer in vember 2012 (Covelong is an No...... ) / I have just seen Madras Musings and like a pro, showing no traces of make such a fantastic first im- suggests. and observe different types of his village. There were many English interpretation of having used wooden planks until pression, Murthy struck up great would like to receive it hereafter. As an extension of this streetscape spot on this waves. He says he made mental youngsters in the village who Kovalam). then to pursue the sport. The relationships and friendships G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. road, Kavitha hopes to re-design the walls that notes to correct his own mistakes liked the sport but just couldn’t The surf season in Chennai Swami was instantly impressed. with people from around the wrap the local TANGEDCO and BSNL tele- and perfected the art of surfing afford surfboards. starts in the pre-monsoon month 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI He left his phone number, urg- world. Some surfers shared their phone exchange offices that flank Nageswara Rao through sheer hours spent in the This was a boon for the boys of April and continues until the HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to Madras ing Murthy to get in touch with surf techniques with him, some Park and the street leading to Our Lady of Light sea. He’s not sure if it was his pas- at Kovalam fishing village — end of the monsoon season in Church, Luz. him. But a not-so-literate shared fancy chocolates from Musings for the year 2015-16. sion for catching waves or his in- learning to surf and being able to September. Covelong Point is an Murthy didn’t know the city their home countries, some G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, Just now, one corner is a open urinal and some nate ability to ride them that instruct others opened up en- exposed beach and reef break codes and dial-in format to use gifted him their old surfboards, parts of the rear wall has BSNL’s promos painted brought improvement. tirely new opportunities to sup- that has pretty reliable surf. Off- environment and a better city that Madras Musings on it. that number. So, for a few more and some went on to use their The person accredited with port their erratic fishing liveli- shore winds are from the west espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an additional years, he continued to remain own professions and talents to “Can we use simple murals to showcase local starting the surf movement in hoods. northwest. undiscovered by the rest of the spotlight Murthy’s talent. Rs...... (Rupees ...... ) Please heritage on these walls on both sides?" asks India is Jack Hebner, an Ameri- Yotam Agam, a well known The ideal swell direction is Kavitha. The rear wall of the BSNL Mylapore telephone world. But the few minutes spent One of the first surfers to dis- keep/put me on your mailing list. can who was drawn to India’s Israeli entrepreneur in Chennai, from the east southeast. Typi- exchange office (top); a sample mural created on the wall on a real surfboard inspired cover Murthy was Tobias As an experiment, her colleagues have spiritual side. At a time when took an immense liking to cally, this coast inherits the wave Name : ...... on Luz Church Road, opposite Nageswara Rao Park Murthy, against his family’s Hartmann, a German expat in designed a mayil (peacock) mural image on the surfing was unheard of in India, Murthy. He liked the boy’s atti- conditions in Bali two or three Address: ...... wall on the edge of the BSNL office fronting the (above). wishes, to use all the family’s India. Tobias says, “I met Murthy we can change the streetscape here,” says he realised that different parts of tude. He found him ingenious, days later. Waves at the beach Park’s main gate. meagre savings to buy one. in the summer of 2007 at ...... Kavitha. the country’s coastline lent optimistic and also considerate break both left and right and Fishing and surfing were the Covelong Point, which was un- All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be “If we convince BSNL and others who use themselves well to surfing in dif- towards others. Murthy never there is a right hand reef break these walls and get Corporation to fund murals, – Mylapore Times reporter dual aspects of his life until known at the time. I had started ferent seasons. approached visiting surfers for too. Surfing here means negoti- sent by Speed Post only. 6 MADRAS MUSINGS October 16-31, 2016

Besant to My book in a (Current Affairs questions are from the period September 16th to 30th. Questions 11 to 20 pertain to Vasantha Annie Besant. bookstore Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) 1. Which Indian airport has was a student of Besant mittee, spoke first and he was oday I am on cloud nine! The journey skywards started last become Asia-Pacific’s only airport, “I Theosophical School followed by an inspiring speech TSeptember when my book Seeing in the Dark, a translation and one of the world’s few, to during 1938-50, a school Annie by Dr. G.S. Arundale, the then of R. Chudamani’s short stories, was released. If you have ever achieve a carbon neutral status? Besant had helped to establish.” President of the TS. Papanasam seen a determined woman peering closely at airport bookshelves 2. Name the Nobel Laureate, She was greatly admired by the Sivan, the music composer and in the months since then, it was me. The first anything is special, former PM and President of Israel, the first child, the first love, the first teacher, the first salary... who passed away recently. people of India for her contri- musician, known as the Thya- make your choice. It is not that the next is less precious. The 3. What is the official name of bution to the freedom move- garaja of the 20th Century, first writes on a clean slate. This was my first book. Gurgaon today? ment as well as her devotion to composed Devi Vasanthe as a The circle of family and friends loyally attended the book 4. India will purchase 36 Rafale education. She established the tribute to Dr. Annie Besant at release function. The said circle also loyally asked for my signa- fighter jets from France. Who Vasantha Press with her own no one’s behest. His devotion to ture. One special member of the audience was my six year old makes the jets? funds, outside the Theosophical her had impelled him to do it. grandson who sat patiently listening to the speeches just to see 5. What honour has been accorded Society (TS) compound, to He has heard her soul-stirring his Paatti stand up. Then began the saga of ‘The Search of the by the Union Government to 105- publish her political writings as lectures several times. Though Bookshelves’. I really don’t know what I expected. I only know year-old Kunwar Bai from well as all the publications of he did not know English, he un- I was sorely disappointed not to see a single copy of my book Chhattisgarh’s Dhamtari District? the TS. She herself published derstood her, as she conveyed anywhere. Then I told myself that perhaps the first edition had 6. Land Rover commissioned the sold out... completely. But as in the old black and white movies world’s largest Lego sculpture of a some 300 books. her message to the atman.” This where two K.R. Vijayas or Saroja Devis appeared with flowing London monument, created with Annie Besant became the prayer song could have been hair, one in black saree and one in white sari arguing with each 5,805,846 pieces, to launch its new President of The Theosophical sung on the very first day of the other, my black sari image appeared and dampeningly told me vehicle ‘Discovery’. What is this Society in 1907 (till 1933). But, school. “Prabha, you’ve got a hope!” edifice? was Vasantha the real name of When Papanasam Sivan first Today I went to Star Mark at the Express Mall to buy books 7. Which Asian online giant is the press when it was started in arrived at Madras in 1929, it for my grandchildren in the US. Ruskin Bond seemed the right planning to launch the world’s first 1908? We do not know who was Rukmini Devi who was the choice for my grand-daughter. I picked up two of his and then e-commerce satellite next year to gave the apt name, Vasantha. first person to recognise his ge- went around the store. I returned to Ruskin Bond. There... I provide people with the best veg- However, at the end of the day, nius. His association with her could not believe my eyes... were my books, Seeing in the Dark, etables? nestling between Ruskin Bond and Amitav Ghosh. Not bad Besant gifted it to the TS and matured to his becoming the 8. Who is to be the inaugural re- company at all. I was thrilled. A slender sales girl was quietly re- cipient of the annual Jesse Owens this acquisition was sold by the composer and musician when arranging the books. I told her,” Do you know.. that is mine!” Olympic Spirit Award for a person TS in 1973. the School started functioning. She didn’t know, it would seem, judging by the way she was who has served as an inspiration in The Besant School’s prayer Kalakshetra was soon after- dropping her jaw. What was this grey haired lady in a grey cotton society? song was composed by Papa- wards formed, in 1936. saree trying to say? 9. Lok Kalyan Marg is the new name “Ma’am , are you saying you are the writer?” of which road in Lutyens’ Delhi? “Yes, yes.” 10. Name Google’s new messaging G I picked up the book and showed the last page where I was app, intented to rival WhatsApp by K.V.S. Krishna beaming from a picture. and Facebook Messenger, that was “Ma’am, shall I shift them all to the top shelf?” launched recently. “ You will?” And I rushed away. nasam Sivan with the words About the first anniversary * * * I don’t think she had ever seen anything like this. Devi Vasanthae and the Besant of the School, G. Swaminathan Then I went up to the cashier. 11. Which Tamil film has been se- School magazine published an- writes, “My proudest moment lected as India’s official entry for “You know what? You have my book!” the 89th Academy Awards for nually, was named Vasantha, was on the School Day in 1935, “What, Ma’am?” Second jaw dropped. Foreign Language Film category? with students contributing to it. when I received – for profi- “The book I wrote... you have it there.” I took a deep breath. 12. Where in Ramanathapuram Similarly the School’s Scout ciency in English, Mathematics “Oh! Cash or card, Ma’am?” District was the world’s largest so- movement was named ‘The and Cricket – lotus petals from I will be more composed and dignified when my second book lar power plant at a single location, Vasantha Boy Scouts and the Chief Guest, the Revered hits the shelf! with an installed capacity of Guides’. Even the Krishna- Rabindranath Tagore.” The – Justice Prabha Sridevan 648MW, commissioned recently? murthi Foundation premises is first SSLC batch had just nine 13. The Asian Development Bank named Vasantha Vihar. This students who appeared for the “Regarding the song com- Anupallavi: The queen of has approved a $631 million loan building came up on 6.5 acres exams in 1937, but only two for building India’s first coastal in- posed by Bramhasri Papanasam speech, you work tirelessly, you off . It was de- passed the exams. The school dustrial corridor between Chennai Sivan on Dr. Besant, it still con- have hoisted. signed by an architect friend of now has got more than 1000 and which city? tinues to be sung in all the insti- Rabindranath Tagore and given students, though the name has The standard (flag) in the 14. Apart from Madurai and tutions under the Kalakshetra by Annie Besant in 1928 to J. been changed to The Besant world, establishing the greatness of Thanjavur, which other two Tamil Foundation on all special occa- Nadu cities have been shortlisted Krishnamurthi, for his resi- Theosophical School. truth, equality, sions of the institution. I had by the Union Ministry of Urban dence. He used it for five Captain G. Swaminathan, the good fortune of learning And wisdom through the right Development in the third batch of decades. the other student who passed in path, and celebrated by the rulers Smart Cities Mission? from him an Ashtapadi from N. Sriram was a devoted the first batch in 1937, showed of the world. poet Jayadeva’s Geetagovindam, 15. Which paddler from the State Assistant Editor of New India me some years back in 2007, his became the second Indian to win for which Rukmini Devi com- Charanam: Condemning ego, and a right hand for Annie Scouts Scarf, which was a silk an ITTF event (after A. Sharath posed the dance for my you joined hands with the poor, Besant. His eldest son was born square of violet with a border in Kamal) by clinching the men’s arangetram in 1950. helpless and downtrodden, you es- on October 1, 1922, which is yellow. Dr. G.S. Arundale was singles title at the Belgium Open? The song on Dr. Besant tablished the Religion of Truth as also the birthday of Annie the Commissioner for Scouts in 16. Name the famous Bengali poet which was written and tuned by the highest religion. who took up a teaching assignment Besant, So, he named his son India in 1934 to 40. Sivan goes thus at the Male Orphan Asylum in Vasanth Nilakanta in her Annie Besant’s last wish A fitting tribute to Dr. Devi Vasanthe. Ragam: in 1848. honour. Similarly, a Theoso- expressed to Dr. Arundale Annie Wood Besant. She never Vasantha, Talam: Adi 17. Which market in Chennai is phist devoted to Annie Besant, before she passed away in 1933 elaborated on her maiden Translation named after the Telugu term for a N. Swaminathan, named his was to establish a school in name, Annie Wood. However, tiger’s cage? Pallavi: Oh Goddess Vasan- daughter as Vasantha. Adyar, as the one she had ear- the book South of the Adyar 18. Who wrote the detailed South- tha, Hail to you, Hail to your com- Papanasam Sivan was the lier established was gifted to J. River has a picture of thickly ern India: Its History, People, Com- passion wooded forest in its backcover! merce and Industrial Resources, one first teacher of music when the Krishnamurti at his request, so of the most popular reference books Besant Memorial School was that he could start The Rishi on the history of Madras? founded by G.S. Arundale with Valley School at Madanapalle, MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB 19. On which busy Chennai thor- K. Sankara Menon as its Head- his native village. Dr. Arundale oughfare is the Sri Balasubramania master and P.S. Krishnaswamy carried out his promise to her To reach out to as many readers as possible who share Bhakta Jana Sabhai, synonymous and K. Venkatala Sastry, the and established the Besant our keen interest in Madras that is Chennai, and in with Thiru Vi. Ka located? other two teachers. It was inau- Memorial School in 1934 in response to requests from many well-wishers – 20. Nimynbacka, Lingumbauca gurated on June 27, 1934. G. Adyar. especially from outside Chennai and abroad who and Moongumbaukum are some of Sundari writes in the book “I contacted my classmate the variants that occur in the South receive their postal copies very late – for an online India Company records of which South of the Adyar River, “I was (1950) Prof C.V. Chandra- edition. Madras Musings is now on the web at www. five years old and was sitting on sekhar and he translated the bustling, present-day Chennai madrasmusings.com locality? my father’s lap. N.Sriram, the school prayer song and sent it (Answers on page 7) Chairman of the School Com- to me with his brief views”. – THE EDITOR October 16-31, 2016 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 An indigenous look at Madras history Roberto de Nobili. r. V. Raghavan, while contributing to the Madras tercente- Dnary volume in 1939, could only quote two sources of Sanskrit literature about Madras, though he knew about the existence of yet another but which he could not lay his hands on at the time. The two that he quoted were Visagunadarsa Campu and Anandaranga Vijaya Campu, both notices of Madras in Sanskrit works. Much later, he discovered the manuscript of Sarva Deva Anandarangam Pillai. Vedachala Mudaliar* Devanayaga Mudaliar. Vilasa, in 86 palm leaves stored Anandaranga Vijaya Campu in the Adyar Library and a more composed in 1752 by poet According to the campu, former Chief Minister of Tamil wiser one, here too, replies that important work on the social Srinivasa to celebrate the lives Anandaranga was born in Nadu, Bakthavatsalam was a the foreigners are just and have conditions of 17th Century of Thiruvengadam Pillai and his Sarvadhari year Phalguna descendant of the family. Simi- better modern equipment and Madras. son Anandarangam Pillai. The month, corresponding to March larly, he has traced the family of arms. The foreigners are re- A well-known Sanskrit poet 1709. Vedachala and got a portrait ferred to as Svethamukhis, th original palm leaf manuscript of of the late 17 Century, Venka- this work was obtained by Pro- The campu narrates the story from one of the descendants, an white-faced ones, similar to tadhvarin, living in Arasani- fessors K.A.N. Sastry and S. of Thiruvenkata living among Abhirama Mudaliar. Vedachala American Indians calling the palai near , com- Vaiyapuri Pillai from the house the merchants and moving to Mudali was the son of Kesava white ‘paleface’. posed the Visvagunadarsa Cam- of Anandarangam Pillai in Chennapattina with his two Mudali who is mentioned in co- pu, meaning ‘holding a mirror to While there is a certain Puducherry. In this work, sons and then on to Navapura. lonial references. He appears to amount of cynical remarks the universe’. A campu kavya is Srinivasa traces the family of Obviously this means Pudu- be from Kalasai (now Thotti- in prose and poetry form and in about the English and their Anandarangam Pillai to one of cherry, nava meaning ‘new’ (in kalai) and his grandfather is behaviour, the narrative also this narration two semi-divine its very early members, Garbha- Tamil pudu). Madras is men- noted in a poem of Thottikalai characters travel over India in mentions that certain mer- daraka (in Tamil Karuvendan), tioned in this campu as Chenna- Subramania Muni in his Kala- chants stood up to the English. an aerial vehicle observing the pattina and Chennake- who lived in Ayanapura, today’s saikovai, a work in Tamil. The topography of the town land below and offering a com- savapura. Ayyanavaram. A generous Devanayaka Mudali is also of Chennapuri is clear from the mentary on what they observe. mentioned in Company records Krisnau and Visvavasu are the text. There was a wall which as Dharmakartha of the Agas- has historic importance for a tax two Gandharva-s, one a cynic teeswarar temple of Nungam- and the other a positive thinker. G by K.R.A. Narasiah that was never collected and is bakkam. His grandfather was a indicated as prakara. Other After crossing North India, they dubash in Eyre Coote’s time. reach Tirupathi and then come places indicated in the text are Though a staunch Vasihnavite, Viksaranya (Tiruvellore), Kala- to Thiruvallur where the Vira- he supported other temples too man, he was visited by poets When Dr. Raghavan got the sai (Tottikalai), Nungapuri raghava temple engages their and a portrait of him was found from Andhra Desa. It appears Sanskrit manuscript of Sarva (), Toyadri attention. Then, after passing by Dr. Raghavan in a temple. from the manuscript that Deva Vilasa, he wrote a com- (Tiruneermalai), Adhipuri over Sriperumpudur, they come Incidentally, there is a Madras Garbhadaraka was invited by mentary on it. The narrative (Tiruvottriyur), Pravalanagari to Thiruvallikkeni. In Sanskrit, District Record entry dated the King of Golconda. There is here is more descriptive of the (Coral Merchant Street) and the tank is called Kairavani, June 6, 1820, where his signa- a corresponding work in place and persons and talks Navasthala (Puduppakkam – meaning ‘the pond of lilies’. At ture appears as S. Davy Telugu, Anandarangarat Chan- about the social conditions of new place). Persons mentioned that point of time in history, the Naigum. damu, by one Kasturi Rangayya, the then Madras. All the char- in the text are Manali Venka- pond was south of where a tank The colourful procession is which says that Ayyanavaram acters in the work are real and, takrishna (son of Muthukrish- exists today. (The old tank area described and shows how these was in Pattana Rajya, obviously therefore, historically this work na) Mudaliar, Ravanappa, and is now a residential area named merchants vied with each other meaning Madras. From both is more important while study- Colla Ravanappa Chetti, who Vedavallipuram). Here there is to show off their wealth and these works, it is understood ing 18th Century Madras and its built the Kotwal Market and an interesting discussion be- power. Their mistresses accom- that the King of Golconda made social construct. the Kanyaka Parameswari tween the two. Visvavasu, be- panying them were talented in Garbhadaraka the lord of temple in 1803-4 from his own ing a positive thinker, speaks Sarva Deva Vilasa, meaning their respective arts, like music Vetrapura. Vetra in Sanskrit is funds and owned a house in- well of the temple, place and ‘the dwelling place of all Gods’, and dance, and were notewor- cane (in Tamil pirambu) and side the Fort in 1822, in addi- people while Krisnau faults ev- that is, Madras to the anony- thy for their beauty. All these therefore Vetrapura is today’s tion to a property belonging to erything. He says that while the mous poet, talks of the impor- merchants, according to the . him. temple and place may be good, tant merchants of the city. Here poet divine, bathed with their The Anandaranga Campu the place is vitiated by the for- too the structure of the text is mistresses in the pond so that Other indigenous writing on says, Garbhadaraka had three eigners (he refers to them as in prose and poetry, but is not the public could see them! the English include several folk sons named Solai, Uttara hunas) who “don’t even wash of classical Sanskrit. Using as it This narrative is important songs booklets of the events (Vadamalai) and Sridhara themselves after calls of na- does in Sanskrit the transliter- to the present day historian as that took place during the En- (Thirumalai). The family lin- ture.” But Visvavasu describes ated Tamil idioms and phrases, it reconstructs the social condi- glish rule in Madras, while a eage is traced in the campu, the foreigners as having some show that the author was of tions existing then, and the much better Tamil poem by one which says Solai had a son virtues. “They do not lie and are Tamil origin but had learned equations between the Com- Varadaraja Pillai was published Bommayya who in turn had two just,” says he, probably taking Sanskrit. Once again the narra- pany officials and the mer- in his India by Bharati on the sons and a daughter. The sec- into account the judgement tive is in the form of dialogue chants. The Company was in- crash of the Arbuthnot Bank. ond son was Thiruvenkata, who meted out during Right-hand between two celestial figures, terested in having a loyal sub- Other folklore written in un- was the father of Anandaranga. and Left-hand caste disputes. Vivekin and Ativivekin (wise servient class who would man- grammatical and colloquial The Telugu work eulogises He also notes the difference be- one and wiser one). age the local population, a man- Tamil describe events like the Thiruvenakata saying that he tween Muslim invaders and the They follow the processions agement technique most suited fire in Peoples’ Park, the first was a linguist and had even English in respect of temples. of the great merchants who in at that time. The English knew flight in Madras, and the Emden studied Christianity, so that he The second treatise Dr. them ostentatiously show off that temples were the nodal shelling of the harbour. The in- could argue with missionaries. Raghavan mentions is the their power, wealth and virility. points for society and the rich formation found in them is reli- At the start itself the poet de- men wanted to have control able in constructing the history Answers to Quiz clares the four merchants he is over them to show their su- of Madras. 1. Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi; 2. Shimon Peres; dealing with are greater than premacy. In appointing the The best written record is, of 3. Gurugram; 4. Dassault; 5. She has been chosen the ‘Swachh Bharat Bhojaraja – bhojadhik. The four dharmakartha-s, the English en- course, that of the diarist Abhiyan’ mascot; 6. Tower Bridge; 7. Alibaba; 8. Muhammad Ali; 9. are called Kalingaraya, Sri- sured that they had a set of loyal Anandarangam Pillai, which is Race Course Road, where the PM’s residence is located; 10. Allo. ranga, Vedachala and Deva- people who would carry out the well known. nayaka. They were all persons will of the governing authority. * * * who actually lived in Madras The English are referred to 11. Visaranai; 12. Kamuthi; 13. Visakhapatnam; 14. Vellore and Sa- and find mention in the works as hunas and the wise one says lem; 15. G. Sathiyan; 16. Michael Madhusudhan Dutt; 17. Puli bone of colonial historians as well. that these foreigners are de- * Dr. Raghavan obtained this picture (bonu) bazaar in ; 18. Somerset Playne; 19. TTK Road; 20. Dr. Raghavan has traced the stroying the culture and the tra- from one Abhrama Mudaliar, a Nungambakkam. family of Sriranga and says the ditions of the locals, while the descendant. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS October 16-31, 2016

Memories of films past Till October 30: Stellar Memories – an exhibition of abstract paint- G Some random reflections of a film buff turned film critic about the English doubt that serpentine queues over an extended period as well as ings by V. Hariram (at Varija and Hindi movie scene in the city over the last half century and more. silver jubilee runs of films were going to be a thing of the past. Gallery, DakshinaChitra). The coming of cable TV in the 1990s ensured that. Till October 30: An exhibition of rom a teenage film buff in the early 1960s to being a film critic The English movie scene was a bit different. Films sometimes for a city newspaper for about 25 years, I have been a close artworks by Nupur Chatterjee on F were shown in the city a year or so after their original release and Bengal Cats (at Kadambari Gal- observer of the movie scene in Madras over the last half century if there were censorship problems then it could even result in a and more, specialising in English and Hindi films. And what vivid lery, DakshinaChitra). longer wait. So city film-goers who loved English films had to be November 5-30: Traditions of memories they bring back for me even as I continue to watch old patient before they could see My Fair Lady, The Sound of Music, classics on YouTube. Tamil Nadu – an exhibition of Doctor Zhivago, Lawrence of Arabia, The Graduate, Jaws, The portraits by Antony Raj and One of my earliest recollections is seeing Ben Hur at Odeon Godfather and so on. The most popular were the James Bond Ramu (at Kadambari Gallery, (later Melody) in 1961. Movies then used to be shown in the city movies which always drew crowds and had successful runs DakshinaChitra). a year or two after their initial release abroad and this was not just whether 007 was played by Sean Connery or Roger Moore. And November 5-30: I see what I pant – confined to English movies. Even Hindi movies were released in the 1980s and 90s, moviegoers made a beeline for the action an exhibition of artworks by some months (or perhaps even a year) after their release in films of Stallone and Schwarzenegger. Anamika V. (at Varija Gallery, Bombay and northern towns. A phenomenon among English movies released in the city was DakshinaChitra). That same year I saw Jis Desh Mein Ganga Behti Hain and MacKenna’s Gold. Nothing matched the popularity of this Gre- Gunga Jumna, both at Midland (later Jayaprada) and Hum Dono gory Peck-Omar Sharif starrer and it demanded a return viewing * * * at Star Talkies. The three were prestige home releases of the three for countless moviegoers more than once. Released in 1970 at Workshops biggest stars at the time, Raj Kapoor, Dilip Kumar and Dev Devi it ran for some 40 weeks – something unheard of for an For Children Anand. Naturally, they drew big crowds and had highly success- English movie – and people talked about the action scenes, the November 19: Bookmark making. ful runs. stunts and the stunning photography for years afterwards. It cer- 8-14 years (at DakshinaChitra). tainly struck a chord with the movie going public in the city like For Adults The most enduring memory of 1963 was seeing Taj Mahal at few films before or since. November 12-13 & 19: Midland and Mere Mehboob at Star. Both films in colour (a trend Terracotta jewellery (at Dak- picking up at a time, when most movies were still being shot in Partab Ramchand shinaChitra, 10.30 a.m.-5.30 black and white) and boasting super hit music by Roshan and [email protected] p.m.). Naushad. Predictably, they celebrated silver jubilee runs. If there was one early phenomenon among movies that ran in the city it would be Aradhana. It enjoyed a golden jubilee run in 1969-70 at Little Anand. Rajesh Khanna was elevated to super- star status, Sharmila Tagore’s performance earned her a Filmfare Mylapore for World Heritage status? award and S.D. Burman’s foot-tapping music was being hummed all over town. It mattered little to moviegoers that Shakthi (Continued from page 1) in its entirety. Mylapore would ments. The shops and commer- Samanta’s film was a remake of To Each his Own, a 1946 Holly- not stand up to much scrutiny. cial establishments have so far wood tearjerker that brought Olivia de Havilland the first of her Yes, it does have temple proces- thwarted all attempts at enforc- two Oscars for best actress. known spots, it is perhaps Luz sions, a live shrine in worship ing discipline. When even such And can I forget the “friendly” competition between Bobby Church that is really a survivor and is perceived as the home of basic aspects of discipline are and Yaadon Ki Baraat in 1973-74? Raj Kapoor’s blockbuster was from the past in terms of its but, then, resisted, what price such UN released at Midland and Nazir Hussain’s entertainer was on show structure. There is, of course, so do others. As for its architec- stipulations as uniform signage, at Star. Released about the same time, the two films celebrated much that is intangible in ture, there is not much of it that cleanliness and, above all, re- their silver jubilees and then their golden jubilees. The dialogue Mylapore that forms a link to and the music was played repeatedly on the juke boxes in restau- is left. Most of the four Mada moval of all visual elements that rants. the past, but that alone cannot Streets are now filled with the distract from the heritage to be make for world heritage status. ugliest possible commercial preserved? Can any property But perhaps the most enduring memory will be the serpentine The recent experience of queues outside Sathyam theatre during the long run of Sholay in structures. What world heritage owner in Mylapore counte- 1975-76. The queues were seen day after day, week after week as making out a case for Fort St status are we talking about? nance that? the popularity of Ramesh Sippy’s magnum opus never ceased. George to be declared a world Lastly, even if such a status Amjad Khan’s dialogues, now part of filmy folklore, was on heritage monument, and one is bestowed on Mylapore, it will It is best that Mylapore and everyone’s lips. that was unsuccessful, throws be accompanied by stringent the rest of Chennai focus on With the coming of television, which made its debut in the some light on what exactly is guidelines that will have to be preserving what little of heri- city in August 1975, it was inevitable that there would be some needed for a favourable hearing. adhered to. Failing this, the ac- tage that is left, and work to- sort of dip in the popularity of films. People preferred to sit and The spot so chosen needs to creditation can be withdrawn. wards improving the quality of see the news and entertainment programmes at home. These were have some tradition or an archi- Mylapore is now an example of life. World heritage status is a insipid and limited to a few hours, but TV being a novelty quite a tectural feature or some impact urban chaos. The four Mada wild goose chase at this point of few people became addicted to it even in the early years. Sure, an on the world by way of history Streets do not even have regu- time and at our levels of appre- Amitabh Bachchan starrer still drew crowds, but there was little or culture to merit preservation lated traffic or parking arrange- ciation of our past.

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