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James Hector Explorer

Bruce Haig Alberta Historical Resources Foundation

Detselig Enterprises Ltd. Calgary, Alberta Following Historic Trails

James Hector Explorer

Canadian Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haig, Bruce, 1936 - Sir James Hector's exploration of the Rockies

(Following historic trails) ISBN 0-920490-35-2

1. Hector, James, Sir, 1834-1907. 2. Rocky Mountains Region - Discovery and exploration. 3. Palliser Expedition, 1857-1860.* I. Alberta Historical Resources Foundation. II. Title. III. Series. FC3213.H34 1983 971.1*02 C84-091027-4 F1060.8.H34 1983

© 1983 by Detselig Enterprises Limited P.O. Box G399 Calgary, Alberta T3A 2G3

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the publisher.

Printed in Canada ISBN 0-920490-35 -2 Acknowledgements

Many people have offered encouragement and sup­ port in the researching of this project. First, I would like to acknowledge the help offered by the staff of Canada's national parks system. Next, my appreciation goes to the staffs at the Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff; the Glenbow Archives, Calgary; the Saskatchewan Archives, Regina and the Provincial Archives of Alberta, Edmonton.

Special thanks to the National Museum and the National Library of New Zealand, Wellington and The Hocken Library, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand.

For her encouragement and support of this project I'm especially grateful to Irene M. Spry of the University of Ottawa, who is Canada's foremost authority on the Palliser Expedition.

Of course, all research is wasted if there is no way of sharing it with people. To the Board of the Alberta Historial Resources Foundation, Calgary and its Executive Director Trudy Cowan and Publications Officer Jim Allabarton, and Ted Giles of Detselig Enterprises, Calgary thank you for bringing the concept to life.

And my gratitude to Frank Huszar, a 20th century "Nimrod" and member of the Historic Trails Society of Alberta, who accompanied me on this adventure of "following historic trails,"

Bruce Haig, Lethbridge, Alberta September, 1983

Sir James Hector (1834-1907)

James Hector was born in Edinburgh, Scotland on March 16, 1834. His father was a lawyer and a friend of Sir Walter Scott, the novelist. At 14 he graduated from Edin­ burgh Academy and went to work in his father's law office. Later, he became a clerk with an insurance com­ pany while he continued with his schooling. At 18 he entered Edinburgh University where he took medicine because only the medical school offered the courses in the natural sciences which were his main interest. In addition to his medical studies Hector also seized the opportunity to study botany, chemistry, and natural history. In his spare time he took lectures in minerology, geology and paleon­ tology. Hector spent his holidays taking part in long field trips studying plants and rocks.

In 1856 he graduated as a medical doctor, but had little time to practice his new career when he was recommended as a member of the Palliser Expedition. His competence in scientific botany and special interest in geology and natural history made him an ideal choice. Also Hector's belief in physical fitness held him in good stead for his future explorations; his peers had great respect for his moral fibre. "He was admired and talked about by every man that travelled with him and his fame as a traveller was a wonder and a byword among many a tepee that never saw the man," wrote Peter Erasmus who was Hector's special assistant. Although only in his early twenties, Hector was described as a wise and kindly man with steady good sense and a warm heart who was cheerful and had a deep sense of humour. His training as a doctor also made it possible for him to help people they met whether they were officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, missionaries, Metis or Indians. The esteem with which the Photograph: Glenbow Archives, Calgary, Alberta Indians held him made it easier for the Palliser Expedition James Hector, at 23 explored the Rocky Mountains in 1858. to conduct its work. From 1857 to 1860 Dr. James Hector travelled thou­ sands of kilometres exploring western Canada. He was an extremely careful and accurate observer and mapper and contributed many diagrams dealing with the geology of the country to Palliser's reports.

Before returning to England, where he received the gold medal of the Royal Geographical Society, Hector made a geological examination of Vancouver Island and This same year, 1868, he married the daughter of Sir toured the gold fields in British Columbia, California and David Munro. They had two sons and three daughters. northern Mexico. Lady Hector died in 1930, almost 24 years after her husband's death. Although Dr. Hector's outstanding contribution to western Canada is preserved in reports that were issued by When the University of New Zealand was established the British Government in 1865, what is not widely known in Wellington in 1870, he was elected to the Senate. In 1885 is the outstanding scientific contribution he continued to he became Chancellor, a position he held until his retire­ make throughout his life. ment in 1903.

At the conclusion of the Palliser Expedition, Sir In 1875 he visited England and Europe and was Roderick Impey Murchison, Director General of the created a Companion of the Order of St. Michael and Geological Survey of Great Britain and President of the St. George (C.M.G.), in recognition of his work with the Royal Geographical Society who had earlier appointed Palliser Expedition 15 years earlier. The next year he was Hector to assist Palliser, recommended him for a position elected a Lyell Medalist by the Geological Society and the in New Zealand. same year, 1876, represented New Zealand at the United States Centenary Exhibition at Philadelphia. He received a On January 5, 1862 he left for New Zealand to knighthood in 1887. become a geologist to the Province of Otago. Three years later he became the Director of the Geological Survey of In 1903, Hector returned to western Canada to revisit New Zealand. the scenes of his explorations nearly half a century before. He brought with him his son Douglas, and it is said that Under his guidance the whole country was surveyed with high spirits he laughingly told people he met that he and his work for the advancement of science was recog­ had come to see the place where he was almost buried alive nized in 1866 by his election to the Fellowship of the Royal — having awoken from unconsciousness after a fall from a Society. The Botanical Garden in the capital city, horse to see that his men had already dug his grave. There Wellington, was placed under his care and for many years is a tragic irony to the story. Shortly after his arrival, his he was in charge of almost all the government departments son, Douglas, became ill. The boy's condition grew worse offering scientific advice. In 1868 he was instrumental in and he was rushed to Revelstoke Hospital where he died forming the New Zealand Institute and was considered the from appendicitis. A granite block was placed on his son's most knowledgeable person on the natural resources of grave — it is thought that the block was cut from the same New Zealand. He was a prolific writer and contributed piece of granite used to commemorate his father's dis­ more than 71 scientific papers of which 31 dealt with birds, covery of the Continental Divide on the Kicking Horse whales and fish; 28 were about geological subjects; three Pass. Overcome with grief Sir James Hector immediately were on botany and nine were of a general nature. He en­ returned home to New Zealand. couraged extensive investigation of the botany of New Zealand and 11 plants have the name "Hectori" included He died four years later on August 16, 1907 at the age in their scientific name. of 73. Some background on the Palliser Expedition In 1858, a tiny settlement known as Red River, now Winnipeg, was all there was of civilization except for strings of fur trading posts along the major rivers. Settlements in the east were cut off by the granite and swamp of the Canadian Shield and to the west by a moun­ tain barrier. For two centuries British North America had been controlled by the Hudson's Bay Company which had harvested the rich furs.

Civilization was beginning to close in on the Hudson's In 1847 Palliser spent two years on the American Bay Company empire. American settlers following the prairies. He later recounted his experiences in a book, Oregon Trail had wrested away the valuable Columbia "Solitary Rambles and Adventures of a Hunter in the River territory when the international boundary was set­ Prairies," which was published in 1853 to great acclaim. tled in 1846. Vancouver Island had remained, as yet, in British hands and soon the Crown colony of British From 1853 to 1856, the United States government Columbia would demand a rail route across British financed a series of expeditions to look for possible routes territory as a link with the east. for railways from the central states to the Pacific. Some of these groups had, on occasion, crossed the border into The Hudson's Bay Company's long trading monopoly British territory and by 1856, John Palliser had come to would soon be up for review. While Sir George Simpson, feel that the British had better learn something about their Governor-in-Chief, argued in London for his company's terrain. Those who were in the know were all members of right to retain its special privileges a young Irish sportsman the Hudson's Bay Company who had a vested interest in and adventurer, John Palliser, had decided that he would, preserving their domain as it was. Surely, it was about time even if he failed to get the support of the British govern­ the government found out for itself what was going on and ment, carry out a one-man expedition to explore the what the possibilities were for the future. As more British prairies and find out if there was any practical rail Americans moved into the Oregon Territory and the call route through the Rocky Mountains. for a democratic vote had ended British control in the pre­ sent states of Washington and Oregon, might this happen Palliser's interest had been whetted by a hunting trip again? As it was at a time when explorers were pushing to the Upper Missouri in the 1840s. The Dublin-born their way through Africa and investigating the far reaches Palliser was a handsome, sociable bachelor who enjoyed of the Arctic, there was almost nothing known of what is world travel and hunting. He was one of many mid- now southern Alberta. Victorian men and women of rank and wealth who preferred the risk and adventure of world exploration to Then there was the mountain barrier. What were the the tedious social life of upper-class England. Palliser's possible routes a railroad might take in British territory? imagination had first been sparked by reading William Fur traders such as David Thompson had pioneered the Fairholme's account of a hunting trip he had made in 1840 northern mountain route, the Athabasca Pass, which was while on leave from military duties in the east. still in use, but how many others were there? The Royal Geographical Society had organized a number of expeditions and possibly it would be interested in helping to finance his explorations. Palliser was nomin­ ated as a Fellow of the Society in November, 1856. Soon after his election he submitted his proposal to explore a large part of North America. One month later he was summoned to London to be interviewed by the Society's expedition committee. Passes were known to exist further south by following either the North or South Saskatchewan Rivers towards Although it took some time for them to reach a their source. Indians were known to use a number of these decision, it turned out the members liked the plan. The passes and occasionally they were used by others when suggestion was made that, although Palliser should remain speed was of great importance. The colorful Sir George in charge, two scientific assistants should go along with Simpson of the Hudson's Bay Company had, while scurry­ him. Palliser was thoroughly skilled in wilderness living ing around the world in 1841-2, followed the South and interested in every branch of science but he was not a Saskatchewan to its headwaters on the Bow River. Then by scientist. It was also suggested that two Royal Engineers way of a pass that still bears his name, Simpson Pass, he accompany the group. The Society President also had continued his westward journey. contacted the Colonial Office in an effort to get the government to contribute £5,000 towards the expedition. In 1848 Palliser met James Sinclair from Red River who had crossed the Rockies at least once with a party of The Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies at the emigrants travelling to the Columbia River. Sinclair time was another Irishman, John Ball. A friend of the described another pass which he hoped to try one day Palliser family he was greatly interested in science and although he was not sure if it was in British territory. could see how such an expedition would not only lead to more knowledge of the country but would add to scientific Palliser decided to go and see for himself. He would knowledge in general. He was an amateur botanist himself travel across the British prairies close to the border of the and was interested in the work of those who were systema­ Red River to the Rocky Mountains. He remembered how tically recording the species the world over and studying to make observations for latitude and longitude from the conditions under which plants lived. The famous Kew earlier studies of astronomy and now he would be able to Gardens in London was anxious that the expedition should settle, once and for all, whether Sinclair's Pass lay in make a careful collection of plants and record the condi­ British or United States territory. Then, of course, there tions, both summer and winter, under which they lived. were probably other passes to discover. Scientists throughout the Empire were involved in Although Palliser originally planned on paying his studies regarding the earth's magnetic field. Noted physi­ own way times, even for wealthy Irish landowners, were cist and astronomer General Sir Edward Sabine requested not good. Palliser's father had even found it necessary to that the expedition obtain records from this new part of sell some of his estates. the world. Sir John Henry Lefroy, soldier and scientist, who had himself made a number of valuable magnetic observations in the far northwest, recommended Thomas Blakiston, a 25-year-old lieutenant from his own regiment, the Royal Artillery, for the job of magnetic observer.

Murchison himself recommended a 23 year-old medical doctor from the University of Edinburgh, James The President of the Royal Geographical Society and Hector, who was also a geologist and naturalist. He en­ Director General of the Geological Survey of Great joyed leading students on geological field trips and had Britain, Sir Roderick Impey Murchison, was leader of a trained himself to endure whatever hardships the outdoors pioneer band of geologists who were classifying the earth's might offer. rocks, clays, sand and gravels according to their character and age. The Society appreciated how valuable an accurate The final member of the team was John W. Sullivan, record of the western part of British North America would a mathematician and sextant observer. He was recom­ be to its study and endorsed Palliser's proposal. mended by Dr. Edward Purcell of the Greenwich Naval School where Sullivan had been teaching, and he would In 1856, an American climatologist, Lorin Blodget, take charge of the expedition's astronomical observations had published a report on the climatic conditions in the and secretarial work. central plains of North America. Palliser's expedition would provide a chance to compare results. In short, those And so a distinguished group was assembled; while it involved in almost all areas of science could see advantages waited for government approval to proceed Palliser to such an expedition. researched the territory he would explore. Under-Secretary Ball, strongly recommended that the Sir George Simpson, the Governor-in-Chief of the government help finance the project. Even while the Hudson's Bay Company offered considerable advice and British Treasury was considering the proposal, top scien­ even went to the trouble of arranging for canoes, horses, tists of the nation, including the naturalist Charles Darwin, supplies and equipment to be available as required. were consulted to investigate the possibility of undertaking other research projects. The distinguished naturalist Sir John Richardson was consulted and the scientist Sir John Henry Lefroy was In due course, it was decided that Palliser should be especially helpful working out the most intricate details of accompanied by a botanical collector, a magnetic obser­ transportation, routes, equipment and supplies. ver, a geological-naturalist-medical man and an astronomical observer who would also be the secretary of Official approval finally came and the expeditionary the expedition. party led by John Palliser, then 39 years old, and accom­ panied by James Hector, Eugene Bourgeau and John Considered the finest collector in the Empire, botanist Sullivan sailed from Liverpool to New York on May 16, Eugene Bourgeau was invited to join the Palliser team. 1857 aboard the steamship "Arabia." Specifically, Hector's geological observations and sketches became the basis of the first complete description Photograph: Glenbow Archives, Calgary, Alberta and explanation of Canada's geological structure west of British explorer Captain John Palliser who led an expedition the Great Lakes. They also threw new light on the various of western Canada between 1857 and 1860. stages of the earth's development and examined the comparative ages of rock and soil formations.

Captain Palliser's report was presented to the British Parliament in 1863. Perhaps it was too detailed, too diffi­ Thomas Blakiston left England six weeks later with cult to follow and too full of scientific observations the expedition's many delicate scientific instruments. He because it seems the report was largely ignored. travelled aboard the Hudson's Bay Company's ship "Prince of Wales"'to York Factory on Hudson's Bay. Con­ By the time the report came out the United States was tinuing his journey by boat rather than overland because it involved in the American Civil War which distracted from was easier on his equipment, Blakiston eventually reached the development of the North American west; also warring Fort Carlton on the North Saskatchewan River near pre­ Sioux Indians, in 1862, had stopped the expansion of sent day Saskatoon and met up with the other members of American settlement west of Red River. the Expedition. At the time of the report's publication Palliser was in Three years later, in 1860, the various excursions of the West Indies preparing for a confidential mission into the Palliser parties were complete. It took three more years the embattled American southern states. Blakiston was in to publish the voluminous details they had collected about China exploring the Yangtze Kiang River and Bourgeau the plants and animals, the changing seasons, the rainfall, was studying plants in the Caucasus Mountains of Russia. snowfall, temperatures and wind, the customs and lan­ Hector went to New Zealand to work as a geologist. guages of Indian tribes and the geology of the territory Sullivan eventually went to New Zealand and as a reporter they had covered and another two years to complete the for the Otago Times he accompanied Hector on several official map. mountain journeys. ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE

EDMONTON Fort Edmonton %

•Hne flivet . Readers are advised Elliot Peak A » If to use topographical Sentinel Mountain A ,5V Kootenay Plains Is maps if planning to \ '•a1° travel this region. Pine Point*/ II Erasmus «•, _„X s Mountain ^-a" ^ Sullivan A °/\ Ji »-«« Mountain «y . A Mt. Murchison Following Historic Trails Lyell Waterfowl Lakes Mountain James Hector & Icefield Explorer

Mistaya \0 A Bow Sun Lake \ is s.,i,m».,,,ls. ^^V A Dolomite Peak ^' Bow Lake^«»<" M ' Bow Peak A » Mour

Hector Lake ^\ \ Hecto -V

Wapta Lake^^-» • * ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE Spiral Tunnel Viewpoint**' saw™*..*msa s Sylvan Lake Yoho Valley Rd. Junctiony0

0f'ert «' Kicking Horse Valley Viewpoint «|o a / A A Castle Mountain i Vermilion tos „>^"*»^Castle Mountain Viewpoint

D,8S8 j Mxrude \ Sawback A Cascade Mountain 8> Lakes V Range

JS _/J" A / Fa°is * v Grotto ^ Old BOW Fort Site • • Town, City or other (Trans-Canada Highway • Readers are advised Park Gate 0s \f\ot-^ Banff-Windermere Highway Junct on) to use topographical B Icefields Parkway • Trans-Canads Highway maps if planning to travel this region. C Icefields Parkway - David Thompso n Highway 1 Range A *> L\ RADIUM The Journey Direction

Here is the day-to-day record of James Hector's The remains of Old Bow Fort are located at Stoney exploratory journey through the Rocky Mountains, in an Indian Park, about 20 km west of the Morley cutoff on abbreviated form. Highway 1A, 60 km west of Calgary.

Simplified directions to enable readers to review and John Palliser, in his report says, "The scenery is wild experience many of Hector's first sightings follow each and beautiful. The Bow Fort was established by the H.B. day's report. Co. for the purpose of trade with the Slave Indians, a name applied by the Crees to the Blackfoot, Peigan and Unless specified, all quotations are attributed to Blood Indians. These tribes are considered by all who James Hector. know them as the wildest and most dangerous of the aborigines in British territory. The fort was ultimately Saturday, August 7, 1858 abandoned by the Company owing to the expense involved in keeping a sufficient staff of men for its protection. The Following the route of Highway 1A towards the barter was chiefly for provisions and buffalo robes, and mountains Hector came to Deadman's River. Now known very few fine furs were obtained, so that by the time the as Ghost River, legend has it that in the early days a ghost goods were transported and the few furs sent to Lake was seen going up and down this river, picking up the Winnipeg, very little profit resulted. Besides, frequent at­ skulls of dead Indians who had been killed in battle by tacks were made on them by the Blackfeet (sic), and Cree Indians. several of the Company's servants lost their lives defending the establishment." Hector crossed the river at the point where it joins the Bow River. The site now is covered by the water of Ghost Old Bow Fort had been chosen as a rendezvous point Lake. for the three parties which made up the Palliser Expedi­ tion. The groups were to explore the passes through the By evening Hector arrived at the site of Old Bow Fort Rockies and find the most suitable route for a railway. to prepare for his penetration of the Rockies in search of a possible route for a railway. "As we were to be here for some days and to make our arrangements for travelling in the mountains without Hector described Old Bow Fort this way, "Its site is the carts, we induced our Stoney Indian friends to camp marked only by a group of mud and stone chimneys, the beside us in order to get them to trade leather and pack remainder of the fort having been constructed of timber, saddles with us for tobacco and ammunition," wrote all of which was long ago removed and used by the Indians Hector. as firewood. A small stream joins the river from the west at this place, and the main stream itself makes a bend from For four days the party was busy preparing for its the north in an easterly course." work in the mountains. Wednesday, August 11, 1858

This is the first day of the James Hector journey which will ultimately take him 57 days to complete.

Accompanying Hector was the botanist Eugene Bourgeau, three men from the Red River area, named Brown, Sutherland and Peter Erasmus, guide and inter­ preter. As well there was Nimrod, reputedly the best hunter of the Stoney Indians. Hector could not pronounce his Indian name, which translated meant, "The one with a thumb like a blunt arrow." According to the Bible, Nimrod, a descendant of Ham, is described as a mighty hunter.

Travelling west along the Bow River, the party con­ sisted of, "... eight horses, three of which served to carry all the little baggage I cared to take, consisting principally of instruments, bedding, ammunition, and tobacco They also took a little tea and grease but had been assured that in the mountains, where they were to explore, there would be ample game.

Following along the Bow River they entered a valley within the first range of the mountains. After travelling for about 30 km, "through fine open woods of young pine, over high level terraces," they camped beside a series of lakes formed where the river had expanded. Bourgeau named the area 'Lacs des Arcs.' Translated, it means 'Lakes of the Bow.'

From his campsite Bourgeau named three other peaks. One he called Pigeon Mountain, presumably because he saw wild pigeons in the area; another peak was named Grotto Mountain because it contained a large cave with a high arched roof, and the third he called Windy Mountain, otherwise known as Wind Mountain, which was officially renamed Mount Lougheed in 1928 after Senator James Lougheed, one time federal Minister of the Interior. Bourgeau's original name was inspired by, "a high peak to the west, on which the clouds were gathering and curling about."

Direction Photograph: Bruce Haig Old Fort Creek as it enters the Bow River at the site of Old These peaks are best seen from Gap Lake which is Bow Fort, about seven km west of the town of Exshaw on Highway 1 A. Thursday, August 12, 1858 Saturday, August 14, 1858

Today, Hector and Bourgeau climbed 300 m up The party travelled 21 kilometres along the valley in Grotto Mountain which was behind their camp. Following five hours. a wild stream, they came across a, "trickling fall several hundred feet in height, splashing in a clear pool with green Sunday, August 15, 1858 mossy banks, and in which we performed our morning ablutions." Close by they discovered a large cave, After an early start they soon reached, "a beautiful "... with a high arched roof and narrow mouth and like little prairie at the base of the 'Mountain where the water Robinson Crusoe's one, with its old goat for a tenant, but falls,' as the Indian name has it, or the Cascade in this case he had long been dead." Here the men split up, Mountain." Bourgeau continuing on to investigate Windy Mountain while Hector and his party travelled for several kilometres Direction along the side of the valley. A spectacular view of Cascade Mountain can be seen Bourgeau did not continue with Hector. He remained from the Trans-Canada Highway on the westerly approach behind collecting plant specimens and returned later to Old to the Banff traffic circle. The "beautiful little prairie" at Bow Fort. Eventually, he returned to England and gave his its base is now Banff airstrip. collection to Kew Gardens, London. During the expedition Hector named the other feature Stopping for the night Hector saw, ".. .just opposite mountain in the area, Mount Rundle, after the Reverend our camp there is a mountain with three peaks which form Robert Rundle, early Methodist missionary who visited the a striking group." It would be another 28 years before region in 1847. geologist George Mercer Dawson named the peaks the Three Sisters in 1886. Cascade Mountain is north of the traffic circle while Mount Rundle is to the south. Direction

Looking to the north from Gap Lake, a large cave can be seen on Grotto Mountain. Gap Lake is about seven km west of Exshaw on Highway 1A.

The Three Sisters, so named because each peak resembles the other two, can be seen south of Canmore.

Friday, August 13, 1858

As food was getting short they did not move their camp and while Nimrod went hunting Hector discovered an abundance of fossils in the beds of limestone.

The fossils helped Hector judge the age of the rocks. He continued to keep detailed notes and made sketches of each mountain and valley as he went along. Wherever he could, he measured the heights of the mountains too. Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Byron Harmon Collection Eventually, Nimrod returned after having killed a Cascade Mountain. deer.

10 Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Byron Harmon Collection Mount Bourgeau, named after the international botanist Eugene Bourgeau who accompanied Hector on the first part of the journey.

*$•;

Photograph: Glenbow Archives, Calgary, Alberta Bourgeau's Windy Mountain, later renamed Botanist Eugene Bourgeau. Mount Lougheed.

11 Monday, August 16, 1858

While waiting for his men to clear a track, Hector climbed Cascade Mountain where he saw a herd of moun­ tain sheep, picas and marmots. "Among the blocks of rock the sifleurs (sic) or mountain marmots kept whistling in a very loud shrill note answering one another, and I also heard the squeaking note of the little pica or tailless hare, which is very common here.

"This is one of the most comical animals I have seen. It is about the size of a small rat, but made exactly like any other rabbit, excepting that it has round open ears. It sits up on its hind legs and calls its note in the most impudent fashion faster and faster as you approach, but always ready to pop out of sight so quickly that you can hardly shoot them, at least with a flint gun."

Tuesday, August 17, 1858

During the course of the day the party covered 27 km in seven hours. While the men with the pack horses followed the track that had been cut out the day before, Hector and Nimrod, "set off to see a fine fall on the river, which lay about three miles out of the direct course. A high hill stands out in the centre of the valley and it is in breaking past this that the river is compressed into a very narrow spout-like channel, and then leaps over a ledge of rocks about 40 feet in height." At this point Hector was describing Bow Falls and Tunnel Mountain. Returning from his visit to the falls he noted that, "above the rocky contraction of the channel the river is dilated and sluggish, Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Byron Harmon Collection and the valley is filled up with large swampy lakes." Bow Falls. Hector was referring to the Vermilion Lakes.

12 Looking beyond the lakes Hector reported, "... we had before us a truncated mountain, evidently composed of massive horizontal strata, and which I named Mount Bourgeau. The pass that Sir George Simpson crossed the Rocky Mountains by in his journey around the world lies to the south of this mountain, and I half thought of cross­ ing the river and following it but we found so much 'white water' in the streams from the south showing that they were in flood.

"Crossed over a low point of rocks, close to the river, where we entered the second great valley, which is of magnificent proportions. Along the eastern side runs a wall of vertical beds, of light grey limestone, the serrated edges of which at once suggested the name of Sawback Range for them," wrote Hector.

Direction

Bow Falls and Tunnel Mountain can be easily viewed from in front of the Banff Springs Hotel in Banff townsite.

Vermilion Lakes and Mount Bourgeau can be seen from Vermilion Lakes Viewpoint on the Trans-Canada Highway, seven km west of the Banff traffic circle.

The Sawback Range Viewpoint is located 17 km west of the Banff traffic circle on the Trans-Canada Highway.

In the distance Hector noted, ".. .a very remarkable mountain still at the distance of 12 miles, which looks exactly like a gigantic castle." He was referring to Castle Mountain, which was known for many years as Mount Eisenhower.

Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Byron Harmon Collectii The Castle Mountain Viewpoint is 25 km west of the Castle Mountain from the Banff-Windermere Highway. Banff traffic circle on the Trans-Canada Highway.

13 Wednesday, August 18, 1858

Today, the party covered 19 km. Their Indian guide, Nimrod, hurt his back severely after falling on his knife while chasing a moose. Hector later shot the animal and after travelling a few kilometres they set up camp, opposite ••'mnr. •••:.• ,-.•:: Castle Mountain, to prepare the meat. •.•• " ::'"-: • ."':. ::W.-:-,-:-^

Thursday, August 19, 1858

Hector and Sutherland explored Castle Mountain. At one point, "We saw several bands of sheep, but did not get a shot; however, we killed two of the marmots or sifleurs. It is the size of a badger, with coarse short hair and no pro­ per fur. It has large incisor teeth like those of the beaver; it lives among the rocks, and has a large nest, in which it lays up stores of provisions for winter, during which season it never comes abroad; but whether it hybernates (sic) or not, the Indians do not know. It returns to its hole late in September, at which time it is very fat and quite as good eating as the beaver, having the same rat flavour." They Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Byron Harmon Collection explored the mountain for 12 hours before returning to Mount Ball, taken from the end of Shadow Lake. camp.

Friday, August 20, 1858 General Sir John Henry Lefroy was a soldier and scientific advisor to the British Army. He was governor of It took them six hours to travel the next 19 km and the Bermudas in 1871, and Tasmania in 1880. their next camp which was on the top of the Continental Divide at the Vermilion Pass. Today, the group shot at its first white goat, but only succeeded in wounding it. "They are very large animals It was at this point that Hector noted, "the first water and walk in a deliberate manner, picking their steps over we had seen flowing to the Pacific. the rocks as if their feet were tender."

"I then ascended the mountain to the east for 1,000 Direction feet above our camp, reaching the limit of the woods after 500 feet. The mountain.. .is a mere spur from a large cen­ At the Vermilion Pass rest area, 10.2 km west of Cas­ tral mass of snow-capped mountains to the south-east, tle Junction on the Banff-Windermere Parkway, there is a which I named Mount Ball, after the Under-Secretary of good view of Hector's ".. .first water we had seen flowing State for the Colonies (in 1857). to the Pacific." The site also includes a sign marking the Continental Divide. "On the opposite side of the valley I saw that the Ver­ milion River rises from a glacier of small size in a high Mount Ball at 3 322 m is the highest peak in the Ball valley of Mount Lefroy," wrote Hector. Mountain Group, southeast of the rest area.

14 KEY A Mountain • 0 Town, City or other site • ••• Trail and Highway — — Trail • •• Highway O83O Distance in kilometres Hector's Total Distance = 900 km (559 miles) Note: Map is not to scale A Castle Junction (Trans-Canada Highway- Banff-Windermere Highway Junction) B Icefields Parkway - Trans-Canada Highway Junction C Icefields Parkway - David Thompson Highway Junction

Augutl 18. 1868 A A Castle Mountain

Vermilion Pass o^°^f.Castle Maintain Viewpoint / Altrude V Sawback 1 Cascade Mountain 8 > Lakes V Range °^ A.,,., .S, .858 Paint Pots/ \25 A /©BANFF CALGARY —•'-•, AMt. Ball ^^ —<• ^ * ,ugu»l 7. 1858 V r- S Bow \. JS JL. A r Falls A ^ Grotto /' Old Bow Fort Site &f-±- N /v^e^ Mt. Bourgeau ( Mt. ^. Mountain > (Peigan Post) /// AV 1 Rundle \ A Ga /° \\ w -I- n Hea|y A \ P ^r^ 130 DeS ArCS ' ^>.*» Vermilion Crossing Qreek Three SlstersV^^^ Mountain - A Pigeon Mountain V\«Simpson Valley Viewpoint A Mt. M • /f- Wardle ' Windy Mountain Ofo, A / A Split Peak « ^^o N.'*, 'H Q Augutl 23 1M*

RADIUM

15 Saturday, August 21, 1858

The party encountered, "heavy soaking mist this morning which soon wetted everything we had for the first time since entering the mountains." For four hours they descended the valley of the Vermilion River. After 10 km they arrived at the Vermilion Plain. "Its surface is entirely covered with yellow ochre, washed down from the fer­ ruginous shales in the mountains. The Kootanie Indians come to this place sometimes, and we found the remains of a camp and of a large fire which they had used to convert the ochre into the red oxide which they take away to trade to the Indians of the low country, and also to the Blackfeet as a pigment, calling it vermilion."

Direction

This area is known as the Paint Pots. Located 20 km west of Castle Junction on the Banff-Windermere Park­ way a short nature trail has been created for visitors to see the mineral springs which early white men mined for ochre. It was used as a base for paint.

Sunday, August 22, 1858

An uneventful day. The party travelled 23 km along the Vermilion River over a period of eight hours. They came across a heavily wooded area, ". .. we got involved in a forest of cedar (thuja) the first I had seen since leaving Lake Winnipeg, and which was almost impassable. "

Direction :-i"::-:-VI v--:.;•

This section of the journey follows the Banff-Winder­ Photograph: Bruce Haig mere Parkway for 18 km from Numa Creek to a spot near Hector's view above the Vermilion Pass. Vermilion Crossing.

16 Monday, August 23, 1858 Tuesday, August 24, 1858 Because of a thunderstorm and heavy rain the night The camp was awakened by some startling news. fore " . every bush and tree was loaded with moisture, "This morning Nimrod, who had set off early to hunt, ti soon did not matter much whether we went into the river returned shortly as white as it is for a red Indian to be with or not, so that we frequently saved a difficult turn by fear. He had been chasing a deer, and had suddenly come accepting a ducking." on a panther, but further than saying that he had wounded him, we could get him to tell us nothing. During the course of this day's journey they discov­ ered, "high banks of white gritty calcareous marl, having a "From seeing them so seldom the Indians are much chalk-like texture," a mineral lick, where they found more afraid of them than they are of grizzly bears, evidence of goats' teethmarks in the mountainside. although there is no comparison between the ferocity of the two animals." Later that day they passed through a gorge which is now named Hector Gorge. Because of dense forest and soaking wet clothes the group only managed to travel six km that day. At one point at the bottom of the valley they came across soft white sandy slates. "The men, by Nimrod's ad­ vice, carried away pieces of this soft slate, and at night they were all busy manufacturing pipes from it."

Direction

Continue south on the Banff-Windermere Parkway 56 km past Castle Junction, and goats can still be seen 'munching the marl' at the Mount Wardle mineral lick where their forebears ate centuries ago. Mountain goats are distinguishable by their white coats and short black horns; mountain sheep are identified by their brownish colored coat, white rump patch and in the male, massive curled horns. Photograph: Bruce Haig Only one kilometre further along the same highway A mineral lick at the side of Mount Wardle is popular with the Hector Gorge Viewpoint shows the start of the 10-km mountain goats. long gorge.

17 Wednesday, August 25, 1858 Hector changed his course from a southeast direction to a northwest direction. He wrote, "I should have liked very much to have descended the Kootanie River for some distance, to find if there is any gap in its valley by which a passage could be effected to the west without following down the stream; but my orders to confine myself to the water-line of the mountains, and which required me to be back at Fort Edmonton early in October, limited me to a less extended circuit in the mountains than I should then have required to make..." Hector was also concerned there was little game in the region and they were running Direction short of provisions. The location where Hector changed direction and Altogether, the party covered 24 km that day. A great started to follow the Kootenay River to its source is near deal of beaver activity was seen. "We saw where they had the Dolly Varden picnic site, which is 68 km west of Castle been cutting up trees five and six inches in thickness into Junction. It is interesting to note that Dolly Varden is the short billets, to use in constructing their houses and name given to the bright orange or red spotted trout dams." popular in western streams. The original Miss Dolly Varden was a character in the novel, Barnaby Rudge by That night in camp, "We heard the cries of a panther, Charles Dickens. She was known for wearing pink spotted which are exactly like those of an infant. Nimrod says that dresses. they call in this manner when they come on the tracks of men or horses, and he seemed to think it might come close, This 18 km section of Hector's route from Kootenay or even into our camp during the night; so when he lay Crossing, Kootenay National Park to the forestry road down to sleep, he kept his 'dagare,' or big Indian knife, cannot be travelled by automobile; only by foot or close to his hand." horseback. 18 >oint of Departure The following guides and outfitters in the area can The parking area for the West Kootenay Trail is found also provide information and services as required. it the Kootenay Crossing Ranger Station, on the Banff- findermere Parkway, 61.2 km southwest from Castle Don Wolfenden, c/o Beaverfoot Lodge, function. Box 1560, Golden, B.C. VOA 1H0 Telephone (604) 346-3205 or 346-3216 It is a one-day hike to Hector's camping spot of august 26th. The night of August 25th he camped near the John Douglas, 2338 3rd Street South, location of the park gate. The section that must be hiked Cranbrook, B.C., VIC 4X5 las an elevation gain of 92 m with a maximum elevation of Telephone (604) 426-7195 II 249 m. At time of writing, (August 1983) there is no official sign marking the cutoff point which takes the hiker over to tecommended the forestry road on the east side of the Kootenay River. There is room for confusion and, therefore, the route Jational Topographical Series Maps: selected must be carefully discussed with the wardens Spillimacheen 82K/16; Mount Goodsir 82N/1 before setting out. Jational Parks of Canada Series: Kootenay Park km (approximate distances) The directions and distances are given going from east to west up the Kootenay River to its source and then down 0.0 — Trail begins at Kootenay Crossing, Kootenay the Beaver foot River to the Trans-Canada Highway just National Park west of the west gate of Yoho National Park. Although 1.2 — Old fire road junction. Take north branch. this whole section can be walked over a period of days, a more practical approach may be to have a vehicle in place 12.8 — Park gate. at the south end of the forestry road. 3.8 — Cutoff to forestry road on east side of Kootenay River. Although the hike along West Kootenay Trail to the 0.8 — Distance to forestry road on East side. Vehicle park boundary is not difficult it is recommended that plans pickup point. be discussed with park personnel at either the Marble Canyon or west park gate information centre in Kootenay 15.4 — Kootenay Crossing junction. Turn west. National Park, Radium, B.C. 0.2 — Kootenay Crossing Campsite. It was in this general area that Hector camped the night of August 26th. Current information on the condition of the forestry road, restrictions due to logging activities and other trail Both the start and end points of the trail are known as information is available from: — Kootenay Crossing. The first is the federally administered Administrative Office, Ministry of Forests, Upper Donald Kootenay National Park while the second is operated by Road, Golden, B.C. VOA 1H0. the British Columbia provincial forest service.

19 Kicking Horse^v Pass Viewpoint ^ Wapta Lake o \ September 3. \i O, Spiral Tunnel Viewpoint mM* /o 37 Yoho Valley Rd. Junction yo 15 3 f Mt. Lefroy I Otterf • August 18 1858 a// Kicking Horse Valley Viewpoint •fo River A A Castle i Vermilion Pass0<£»- X© Castle August 20, 1858 +^^? ^^ Mt. HunterV3, 95 S Altrude \ A I / Lakes X Park fiatPl A Mt- Vaux Paint P°tS / GOLDEN + rdlK Udiei August 21. 1858 #, W Mt. Ball • ••.#°—£• <>• Wapta Falls °/ A ^*^ 4 9 August 29. 1858 Mt. Bourgeau Wapta Falls Overlook ^^ r<$ ^ / . e,- U > Cr

20 «. Beaverfoot Range A ° %. V rossing ^>. ^« Vermilion C /0.\ 37 5

/V \ August 26. 1858 /0.% °c> oV V\«Simpson Valley 4>- Vv Mt- / % N^ ^ | / Readers are advised Ward e Park GateNx \ Cy°o,\%o/G A / ^ A Split Peak to use topographical maps if planning to 4> V c^ travel this region. ^ Q August 23 ib5t •^ *> \\ Brisco Range • %* *••* °± RADIUIV

20 Thursday, August 26, 1858

Although it hadn't rained heavily since they had -rossed the Continental Divide, the group and its baggage as drenched from mountain mists. "The constant moisture has had a bad effect on our moose meat, which, although well enough prepared to keep in the dry climate of the east slope, has within the last few days completely rotted. This is the more serious, as we now seldom see any At this time Hector and his group were running short tracks of game." of provisions. "In the afternoon we passed two large streams in the valleys of which grew quantities of raspber­ In his writings on this day, in which the party only ries, which were very welcome, as we had almost no covered 13 km, Hector recorded, "Yesterday, we passed provisions left." Even their attempts to catch trout for the remnants of very old encampment that must have been their supper were unsuccessful. inhabited in winter, as the trees round it had been cut down on snow shoes, the stumps being six feet high, show­ Direction ing the snow to have been four to five feet deep. The provincially operated Kootenay Crossing Camp­ "We saw signs of this being a very fine fur country, site is located south of the Trans-Canada Highway one km for marten and other tracks were very abundant, but the west of Yoho National Park's west entrance, 28 km along absence of game, which is very unaccountable, prevents the forestry road which follows up the Beaverfoot Valley the Indians tenting up this way to trap." past Beaverfoot Lodge.

By noon the group had reached two lakes, which are To reach the Trans-Canada Highway it is recommend­ the source of the Kootenay River. "Its shallow waters were ed that drivers take the southwestern road from the camp­ thrown into waves by a stiff westerly breeze and splashed site. To the northwest there is a view of the Ice River Valley on a shore of pure white sand; but when we entered the and the mountains Hector named. lake to bathe, we found that a few yards from the shore it had a muddy bottom that was almost unfathomable." In the vicinity of Beaverfoot Lodge Hector's party Nevertheless, Hector was enraptured with the birds and camped for the night. The distance from Kootenay Cross­ began to see many plants that, until then, he had failed to ing to Beaverfoot Lodge is 15 km. notice. Saturday, August 28, 1858 Direction

j The party was forced to chop its way through fallen Included in direction for August 25. timber and had only covered 10 km when a violent storm forced them to make camp. Friday, August 27, 1858 Direction Continuing their journey northward they came across the Beaverfoot River after travelling through a few See the directions for August 29th. kilometres of mossy swamps and small deep lakes crowded with brightly coloured flowers. Hector named two moun­ Sunday, August 29, 1858 tains in the region respectively, Mount Vaux, after William S.W. Vaux, a collector of coins for the British Museum and A memorable day for James Hector. Today he was to a friend of Captain John Palliser, and Mount Goodsir, discover Wapta Falls; be kicked unconscious by his horse; after one of Hector's teachers, John Goodsir, Professor of almost be buried alive and nearly starve to death... Anatomy at Edinburgh University. all within one hour and a half.

21 Direction

Approaching the Yoho Valley Road Junction, 33.3 km east of the west entrance to Yoho Park the traveller will see the wide shingle flat with "the big hill" looming in the background. About four km further on the Spiral Tunnel Viewpoint provides not only a look at the engineering masterpiece which made the Kicking Horse a practical railway route but a look east, up the valley, provides a view of the rugged upper canyon of the Kicking Horse River.

The crest of the Kicking Horse Pass lies below the viewpoint, 45.3 km from the west gate of Yoho Park. The C.P.R. surveyed the area in 1881 and three years later the railway line was pushed through.

Friday, September 3, 1858

Hector finally felt recovered enough from his accident to go hunting with Nimrod.

They travelled a few kilometres on foot and soon Nimrod shot a moose. "It was a doe, and very lean, but, notwithstanding, we soon set about cooking and eating to make up for our long fast. It was not till we got the food that we all found out how depressed and weak we were, as desperation had been keeping us up.

"I had three days before promised that if nothing was killed by today I would kill one of the horses, and this evening, if Nimrod had not killed the moose, the old grey that fell over the cliff would have been sacrificed. I had refrained from killing a horse sooner, as I have been warned by experienced travellers that once the first horse is Direction killed for food many more are sure to follow, as the flesh of a horse out of condition is so inferior as merely to create Descending the east side of the Kicking Horse Pass a craving for large quantities of it, without giving the they followed Bath Creek to the approximate location of strength or vigour to induce the hunters to exert themselves the Icefields Parkway Junction. to kill other game. Bath Creek was named in 1881 when Major A.B. "The prospect of starving is then looked on with in­ Rogers the famous chief surveyor of the Canadian Pacific difference, as they know it will be avoided by killing Railway took an unscheduled plunge into the river while another horse, until at last too few are left to carry the trying to cross the stream on his horse. necessaries for the party, who then undergo great suffer­ ings, and, as in the case of several American expeditions, The Icefields Parkway Junction is 52.9 km east of some may even perish. " Yoho Park's west gate on the Trans-Canada Highway.

24 Saturday, September 4, 1858

As they were finishing their moose, a Stoney Indian, who had smelled the fire, dropped in on the camp. He said there was an Indian camp of eight tents about 10 km west.

Slinging the moose meat over the horses, Hector's party went to visit the Stoney camp. It snowed most of the day, the first of the season.

At the camp, which was at the side of a small lake below Mount Hector, "... the squaws took the whole management of our affairs, — unpacked the horses, put up the tent, lined it beautifully with pine foliage, lighted a fire, and cut wood into most conveniently sized billets, and piled them up ready to hand. They then set about cooking us all sorts of Indian delicacies, — moose nose and entrails, boiled blood and roast kidneys, etc."

The Indian party, like Hector, had wandered into the Sunday, September 5, 1858 valley looking for game, and had killed six moose in two days to feed its starving families. Hector's party was, "... wakened at an early hour by the hymns of our Stoney Indian friends, who join in wor­ During the night, Hector's tent caught fire after he ship every morning and evening, but several times upon failed to douse his camp fire before retiring. The fire spread this day. None of them went hunting, as it was to a pine tree which, "... gave out a magnificent blaze, the Sunday... " roar of which luckily wakened me up, and without waiting to see how much was burning of the forest, I caught our Monday, September 6 and Tuesday, September 7, 1858 powder and my trowsers (sic) and bolted right into the swamp." The Indians prepared a large quantity of dried meat for the rest of Hector's journey. "All of it was very lean, Fortunately, the blaze did not spread. "The glare of and we could not get any fat or grease to trade from the light which this fire threw on the dark forest and swarthy Indians which was a bad look out, as it is nearly as hard to faces of the Indians, who gathered round to watch its live on the dried meat of a lean animal alone without progress, was very striking." grease, as it is to starve altogether."

Direction At this time he exchanged, ".. .our old friend 'the grey' horse with the bruised countenance, and by giving a Hector's party moved north up the Icefields Parkway little 'to boot', got a very good animal in exchange." about 10 km from its junction with the Trans-Canada Highway. A good view of Mount Hector, can be obtained They also allowed a young Indian orphan boy to join while travelling north between Herbert Lake and the their party and travel with them for about 75 km to visit Hector Lake Viewpoint on the Icefield Parkway. friends at another Stoney Indian camp.

25 Wednesday, September 8, 1858

Leaving their Stoney Indian friends, Hector and his group journeyed through a wooded area until they met the Bow River. Intermittent snowstorms hindered their pro­ gress. In late afternoon they came upon Goat Mountain, St . * Shunda ( now called Bow Peak. Lake Nestled in the valley was a large lake which was later Bighorn River / named Hector Lake by the noted Canadian geologist Dr. George Mercer Dawson. No rth

The cold weather was having its effect on the men, Abraham Lake and instead of pitching tents tonight, "we made a regular winter encampment with pine foliage -under us." Cl,ine pwef Readers are advised to use topographical Sentinel Kootenay Plains Because of their curious outline, mountains to the maps if planning to travel this region. north were described by the men, "... that they were like Pine Point »0 / an old woman's jaw." Erasmus 19 6 _^ Septe Mountain

Direction Mt. Murchison

The Hector Lake Viewpoint is located 17 km north of ~ Waterfowl Lakes the junction of the Icefields Parkway with the Trans- %\ O SeP,ei Canada Highway. Mount Hector looms above the view­ point to the east while Bow Peak is the first mountain

north of Hector Lake, up the valley. The castellated towers Mistaya * 0 A BOW Summit of Dolomite Peak, which rise near the head of the valley Lake \ 62 September 9. IBM beyond, are probably those reminding the party, "of an ^AS^ ADA DolomitC e Peak old woman's jaw." A year later, travelling down the near­ jke^S^»' A Bow Lake Molar by Pipestone Valley, Hector's party noted another moun­ Bow Peak A * Mountain tain that so much resembled, "a large tooth that we named \ A Mt. it Mount Molar." Now known as Molar Mountain, it is Hector Lake \ Hector northeast of Mount Hector. V

26 Thursday, September 9, 1858

As the timber began thinning out, they began to make better time and today, in fact, they covered 24 km.

The Stoney Indian orphan boy taught Hector how to snare tree grouse at which Hector became quite proficient.

"He took a short piece of sinew twine and made a nooze (sic), which he fastened on a slender pole, and advancing slowly to the bird gently passed the nooze over its head, and pulled it off the tree," wrote Hector.

During the course of the day's journey they travelled past Bow Lake, "the water of which was of a bright green colour," and reached a height of 2 097 m above sea level at Bow Pass, which is considerably higher than the 1 640 m Vermilion Pass.

From the summit of the Bow Pass, they claimed they could see 40 km down the Mistaya River Valley. Mistaya is an Indian word for bear.

They descended 274 m and then encamped at Mistaya Lake.

Direction

The Bow Lake Viewpoint is located on the Icefields Parkway 34.5 km north of its junction with the Trans- Canada Highway and the Bow Pass Summit is located 6.2 km further along. A spur road branching at this point leads to the parking area for the Peyto Lake Viewpoint and a scenic view of the Mistaya River Valley. Hector's Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Byron Harmon Collection journal makes no reference to Peyto Lake and it would Bow Lake and Bow Glacier. appear he did not see it.

27 Photograph: Bruce Haig The Howse River was followed by the early fur trader David Thompson.

Saturday, September 11, 1858

Friday, September 10, 1858 "During the night we heard a great noise, like distant thunder, at intervals, which Nimrod said was caused by ice Early in today's journey they passed two shallow lakes falling in the mountains," reported Hector. called Waterfowl Lakes. After travelling 26 km, much of it in dense woods, they came upon the North Saskatchewan The group travelled 16 km along the Howse River, River. That night they saw Donati's Comet travelling named after Joseph Howse, fur trader and explorer, who across the sky. journeyed through the pass in 1809.

The comet had caused quite a stir in scientific circles During the afternoon one of their pack horses, at the time but this was the first night that Hector's view carrying Hector's collection of plants and animal skins had not been hidden by mountains. plunged into the waters of Glacier Lake. The animal which, a few days earlier had jumped into the Kicking Direction Horse River, was retrieved and its pack dried out.

The Upper Waterfowl Lake Viewpoint is located 56 Glacier Lake was so named by Hector because of the km north of the junction of the Icefields Parkway and the massive glacier at the western end. Trans-Canada Highway, while the Lower Waterfowl Lake Viewpoint is 2.4 km further. Tonight, they tried shooting bats. ". .. we found that the noise was echoed in a most wonderful manner by the The David Thompson Highway which parallels the successive points from side to side of the lake, the report North Saskatchewan River joins up with the Parkway 76.7 being thus repeated in a sharp distinct manner six or eight km north of the Trans-Canada Highway. times."

28 Direction

A summary of the hiking trail to Glacier Lake is found below. For more information consult the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide.

Allow three hours each way for this hike.

Elevation gain: 215 m (700 feet)

Maximum elevation: 1 645 m

Topo map: Mistaya Lake, 82N/15 West

Point of Departure

The parking area for the trail is situated on the west side of the Icefields Parkway, 1.2 km north of the David Thompson Highway Junction. Parking is well off the highway on the edge of an old roadside gravel pit.

0.0 — Glacier Lake Trail sign 1.1 — North Saskatchewan River, cross via a wooden footbridge 2.3 — Viewpoint overlooking Howse River 8.9 — Eastern end of Glacier Lake 9.2 — Campsite 29 Photograph: Bruce Haig Lyell Glacier at the west end of Glacier Lake.

Direction Sunday, September 12, 1858 Continuing Hector's trail, begun yesterday, the 14.4 km Glacier Lake Hiking Trail starts at the edge of an old Hector moved their camp to the base of the glacier roadside gravel pit off the Icefields Parkway, 1.2 km north and explored the valley floor. of the David Thompson Highway Junction.

30 Later in the day they climbed a nearby peak which Hector named Sullivan's Peak after John W. Sullivan, Monday, September 13, 1858 astronomer and secretary of the Palliser Expedition.

Hector spent the day with Sutherland exploring the Across the lake, "... there is one peak that has a glacier. Their Indian guide Nimrod, turned down their pyramidal top completely wrapped in snow and at least invitation to accompany them. double the height of where I stood above the valley." Hector named this peak Mount Forbes (4 084 m) in "I wished Nimrod to go with me, but he would not honour of his longtime friend, natural history professor, venture on the ice, but told all sorts of stories of sad Edward Forbes. disasters that had befallen those Indians that ever did so; how that, if they did not get lost in a crevasse, they were at Hector and Sutherland encountered a small problem least sure to be unlucky afterwards in their hunting." on their descent. "At one point we thought at first we should require to turn back, and gain the surface of the Although it was cold on their feet, Hector and glacier as we came to a precipice that was closely hemmed Sutherland wore moccasins without socks in order to get a in between a wall of ice and one of rock. However, by better foothold in the ice. They stepped warily around knotting our leather shirts together, and taking off our chasms and breaks in the ice. moccasins, which were now frozen, we managed to get past the difficulty, and pushing on rapidly reached our "We had to go a great way round to avoid one of camp at eight o'clock." these rents, and at last had to jump it when about four feet wide, and, as I found, by timing the fall of stones, 160 feet While Hector and Sutherland climbed the glacier, his deep." other men hunted for game but returned emptyhanded. ".. .we were now limited to the dry lean moose meat, During their investigation of the glacier they saw ice which has not much more nourishment in it than chips of pinnacles crashing, which days earlier they had mistaken parchment." for the sounds of thunder. At night they saw, "a great glare of flame down the From high on the glaciers, "We had a splendid view valley at the lower end of the lake, and we rightly conjec­ over the 'Mer de Glace' to the south and west, the moun­ tured that the fire we left at our halting place among the tain valleys being quite obliterated, and the peaks and fallen woods had set the forest on fire." ridges standing out like islands through the icy mantle," wrote Hector. Direction

The high peak at the centre of the glacier was named Hiking on the glacier or climbing these peaks is not Mount Lyell by Hector after the noted British geologist, recommended. All climbers must check with officials in Sir Charles Lyell. The glacier became known as the Lyell Banff National Park before exploring this region of the Icefield in 1964. mountains. 31 Wednesday, September 15, 1858

At a point along the bank of the North Saskatchewan, the Stoney Indian orphan boy and Nimrod joined up with Hector bringing with them some goats they had killed.

"We tried to eat the goat meat, which was that of a fine young kid, and was fat and exceedingly good-looking, but in spite of our hunger none of us could retain it on our stomachs, as the rank musty flavour gave rise to intense Tuesday, September 14, 1858 nausea."

The party broke camp early and within two hours In the afternoon, "we went very fast, and after 12 came across a still burning forest. Stumbling through the miles we crossed a rocky point where the river abruptly smouldering underbrush, "our horses' legs suffered a changes its course to the north, entering a wide valley that good deal." is prolonged through the mountains.

In time they reached the main valley of the North The region, known as the Kootenay Plains is about 12 Saskatchewan. After travelling only 13 km they set up km long and four km wide. It was well known as the place camp among some sand hills. where, annually, the Kootenay Indians exchanged their furs with the traders from Rocky Mountain House. "Near our camp we found some old buffalo dung, and the Indians told us that not many years ago there were The party made especially good time that day and many of these animals along the valley of the North travelled about 40 km. Saskatchewan, within the mountains. Eleven years ago, they say, there were great fires all through the mountains, Direction and in the woods along their eastern base and after that a disease broke out among all the animals, so that they used Hector travelled along the route of the David Thomp­ to find wapiti, moose, and other deer, as well as buffalo, son Highway (Highway 11), east of the Icefields Parkway lying dead in numbers. Junction. The ". .. rocky point where the river abruptly changes its course to the north", is now called Whirlpool "Before that time (somewhere about 1847 or 1848) Point and is 19.6 km from the junction. there was abundance of game in all parts of the country; but since then there has been great scarcity of animals, and The Kootenay (Kootenai) Plains area is now partially only the best hunters can make sure of killing," says flooded by the Abraham Lake which has formed behind Hector. the Bighorn Dam. The lake was named after Silas Abraham, a Stoney Indian, and his family, who lived in Direction the area for many years.

Hector was returning from the west end of Glacier Recommended Lake approximately to the junction of the Icefields Parkway and the David Thompson Highway. Alberta Rocky-Clearwater Forest Map

32 Thursday, September 16, 1858

While Erasmus, Nimrod and the Stoney Indian or­ phan boy went hunting for mountain sheep, Hector backtracked to a nearby rocky point which he named Pine Point. He examined its geological structure and identified the vegetation.

The hunters successfully killed four large mountain sheep rams. Since they were too big to carry, plans were made to collect the meat the next day.

Direction

The rocky point which Hector called Pine Point is now known as Whirlpool point and is located 19.6 km east of the Icefields Parkway junction on the David Thompson Highway.

Friday, September 17, 1858

They took packhorses part way up a steep mountain slope. However, as Hector did not want to risk the animals he directed his men to drag down the rams, killed the day before.

Hector continued to the top of the mountain, either Sentinel or Elliott Peak. At one point more than 100 rams rushed past him, ".. .so close, indeed that I hit them with stones."

Direction

Photograph: Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Banff, Alberta; Elliott Barnes, photographer Sentinel Mountain and Elliott Peak are located west Stoney Indian Silas Abraham at Kootenay Plains, about 1906. of the David Thompson Highway about 36 km east of its junction with the Icefields Parkway.

33 Hector became separated from the rest of the group because he was examining rock formations. A heavy hail and thunder storm began, "the fall of rain and hail was so severe that the horse tracks were quite obliterated, and I was pushing on very fast in doubt of whether I had passed them or not, when suddenly my horse shyed at a bush, and immediately out sprang a splendid panther.

' 'I did all I could to pull off the leather cover from my rifle, but it was so soaked from the rain that I found it immovable. He stood a few seconds within 12 feet of me, lashing his tail, and as if in doubt whether to spring, while my horse danced about in a state of disquietude, till at last he made off into the brushwood again.

Saturday, September 18, 1858 "He was of a browny red colour, and I had only time to remark the great width of his face, and the length of his Continuing their trek along the North Saskatchewan tail." River Hector noted a valley to the west. "Through this valley Nimrod said a trail runs to Jaspar (sic) House, Hector, none the worse for his encounter with the known as 'Old Cline's trail. Cline was a trader that every mountain lion, shortly rejoined his men where they had set summer travelled through the mountains from Jaspar up camp at Tershishner Creek. House to the Kootanie Plain, and then returned through the woods by their eastern base, collecting, during this The party had covered 39 km that day. tour, enough provision to support him at the trading post of Jaspar House during the winter." Direction

On this day Hector recorded that he named, "a lofty The Cline River Crossing is located about 35 km east peak", Mt. Murchison. of the Icefields Parkway junction with the David Thomp­ son Highway. Sir Roderick Impey Murchison was Director General of the Geological Survey of Great Britain and president of Mount Murchison stands out to the south and west the Royal Geographical Society. He had recommended along the route from the Icefield Parkway. Hector as a member of the Palliser Expedition. Tershishner Creek enters the east end of Abraham About 4 p.m. Hector and his party left the moun­ Lake at the Bighorn Dam. The dam is about 60 km east of tains, just 38 days since they had entered them from Old the Icefield Parkway Junction along the David Thompson Bow Fort. Highway.

34 Wednesday, September 22, 1858

With nine members of the Stoney band Hector, Erasmus, and Nimrod went hunting mountain sheep. They found a flock and were successful in killing 10 of them. Sunday, September 19, 1858 "At the end of the day we found there had been 10 sheep killed, of which Nimrod killed five, Erasmus two, myself Hector moved east and it was decided the others one, and the Stoneys only three among them. would follow as soon as the camp was dried off from the previous day's storm. Nimrod was award of good pasture "That it may not seem like butchery, I may mention at Bighorn Creek and a few days stay in the area would en­ that from their habits the Rocky Mountain sheep is as sure that the horses would be well rested and fed for the difficult to hunt as any deer, while the grey colour renders long trip to Fort Edmonton. them a less easy object to aim at."

Hector set up camp along Bighorn Creek. "The coun­ Hector went on to record, "Nimrod was the great try in the great valley between Brazeau 's Ranges and the man among the Indians on returning to camp, as a good mountains proper, is very beautiful," reported Hector. hunter is always held in the highest estimation. He does nothing but idle and smoke in camp, and may lord it over Direction the rest as he pleases, as they are all afraid to offend him."

The David Thompson Highway crosses the Bighorn Thursday, September 23 and Friday, September 24, 1858 River about six km east of the Bighorn Dam. Hector did not record any activities for these two Monday, September 20, 1858 days.

For the next seven days they stayed at the same camp­ Saturday, September 25, 1858 site and made occasional short journeys into the surrounding countryside to hunt and examine the flora Hector's horses showed steady improvement after and fauna. resting and grazing.

Tuesday, September 21, 1858 Sunday, September 26, 1858

They were joined by a party of Stoney Indians, Chief Hector examined the geological structure of a lime­ Samson's band, which was on its way to Old Bow Fort. stone hill. 35 Monday, September 27, 1858

"This morning, after giving away everything we could spare as presents to our Indian friends, and leaving with them the boy that had accompanied us from Bow River, we started to continue our journey to Edmonton.

"The seven days' rest had greatly improved the horses, and without it I doubt if we should ever have got them to winter quarters."

They were approaching the Brazeau Mountain Range, named after Joseph E. Brazeau, a Hudson's Bay Company employee who served as postmaster and clerk from 1852 to 1864 in Edmonton, Rocky Mountain House and Jasper House.

The party rode 24 km and camped at the source of what is known as Shunda Creek.

Direction

They probably camped at Shunda Lake which is about five km west of Nordegg on the David Thompson Highway. Nordegg is 90 km west of Rocky Mountain House.

Tuesday, September 28, 1858

They continued making good progress and came across the North Saskatchewan River that afternoon. That night they camped by a spruce swamp, after travelling 37 km.

Direction

The David Thompson Highway passes through the gap in the Brazeau Range about six km east of Nordegg. 36 Wednesday, September 29, 1858 Keeping to the valley floor they made good time and travelled 40 km before setting up camp. Thursday, September 30, 1858 "The valley has now expanded till the high lands are represented only by rounded hills at a considerable distance," wrote Hector on the day when they reached Rocky Mountain House. The first post was built by the North West Company in 1799. In the intervening years until 1861 the post, which became the property of the Hudson's Bay Company in 1821, was opened and closed many times depending on the 'business climate' of the time between the Indians and fur traders.

A total of three posts were built on the site in 1799, 1835, and 1866, respectively. The last post ceased as a trading centre and was abandoned in 1875. "The place had a deserted look, the parchment windows being torn, the doors standing ajar, and the court-yard choked with weeds. We established our camp in the kitchen, and tearing down some of the half-rotten pickets, soon made a blazing fire, but I did not feel nearly so comfortable as if we had been encamped as usual. Our supply of sheep pemican that we had made was now fin­ ished, and on looking for the bag of dried meat the Stoney Indians had prepared for us, we found that it had dropped out of our pack, so we were left without any provisions, and had still 180 miles to travel. During the night there was much thunder, followed by snow, being exactly the same kind of storm that ushered in the previous winter.

Direction Rocky Mountain House National Historic Park is located 4.8 km southwest of Rocky Mountain House on Highway 11 A. An orientation centre is open year around while history-nature walks and interpretive programs are carried out in season. For further information contact: Painting: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Ontario Rocky Mountain House National Historic Park Rocky Mountain House, 1835-1861, as recorded by artist P.O. Box 2130 Paul Kane. Rocky Mountain House, Ab, TOM 1T0 37 Friday, October 1, 1858

The ground was covered with snow. They killed some grouse for breakfast and spent the day searching for their horses which had strayed from camp.

Saturday, October 2, 1858

The snow had disappeared although there was a hard frost. They left Rocky Mountain House and headed north­ east, crossing the North Saskatchewan and Clearwater Rivers.

After travelling 26 km they came upon Last Hill Creek, so named because it is located at the bottom of a hill from which the last view of the Rocky Mountains can be seen, about 80 km away.

Direction

To follow the Blackfoot track to Fort Edmonton leave Rocky Mountain House by way of Highway 598 towards Leslieville. At Leslieville turn north. Proceeding north, turn right at the first grid road and within six kilometres a relatively steep hill will begin. At the top take a few moments to observe a last view of the Rockies.

Photograph: Bruce Haig Recommended A final view of the Rocky Mountains from above Last Hill Creek. National Topographic Series Map — Rocky Mountain House 83 B

38 Sunday, October 3, 1858

The weather was bitterly cold today and they travelled quickly. By noon they had reached Gabriel's Lake, pro­ bably named after Baptiste Gabriel, whom Palliser described as, "a first rate trader and a smart little hunter."

They camped with some Indians near Blind River and exchanged Hector's leather tent for some venison.

It snowed heavily that night and by morning there was 15 cm on the ground.

Direction

Hector stopped along the south shore of Gabriel's Lake. Travel east from Leslieville about 6.5 km to EDMONTON Withrow. Gabriel's Lake is located about eight km north­ Fort Edmonton east of Withrow. October 7, 1858 f

Recommended l# 1° National Topographic Series Map — Rocky Mountain House 83 B IS

Monday, October 4, 1858 Pigeon Lake Despite the drifting snow Hector's party struggled on and travelled 45 km before they were forced by a violent \ storm to build a winter camp of pine branches. Watelet Lake Their journey took them past Gull Lake and Prince Lake. Prince Lake Direction -»', Hector went around the north end of Gull Lake which Gull Lake is 13 km east of Rimbey. V Hector's Prince Lake has no official name today although local residents refer to it as Mud Lake. It is on the north side of Highway 53, about 24 km west of Ponoka.

Recommended ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE Sylvan Lake National Topographic Series Map — Red Deer 83 A

39 Tuesday, October 5, 1858 By morning their shelter was completely covered by a heavy drift. Hector tore up his blanket to make foot wrap­ pers for his men. They crossed Battle River and Pigeon Lake Creek, which was so deep they had to swim across. "The effect of Wednesday, October 6, 1858 the plunge on our worn-out horses was, that a few miles after, they began to give out, so that we could hardly get "We travelled on slowly, all on foot, driving the jaded them along." horses through the deep snow." At noon they reached Bad Beaver Dam where they stopped for lunch. By nightfall they had travelled 32 km. At dusk they reached the 'Stoney Plain,' only 40 km Direction southwest of Fort Edmonton and camped for the night. Hector crossed Battle River close to its junction with Direction Pigeon Lake Creek. It is about 13 km west of Usona which is 29 km northwest of Ponoka. Bad Beaver Dam appears to be the marshy area north of Bigstone Creek. He continued north passing between They passed close to Falun on Highway 13 between today's community of Patience and Watelet Lake. Pigeon Lake and Bearhills Lake. Hector's 'Stoney Plain' should not be confused with Recommended the present-day town of Stony Plain, 20 km west of Edmonton. Hector noted that the area was "covered with National Topographic Series Map — Red Deer 83A boulders."

40 Thursday, October 7, 1858

This is the last day of Hector's 57 day exploratory journey which had taken him 900 kilometres through the mountains and foothills.

A sharp frost held the snow firm and the horses were able to make good speed. At noon Hector and his men reached White Mud Creek and, ". . .halted to wash our faces before arriving at the fort."

"At 4 we reached the river, and soon attracted the attention of the inhabitants of the fort, and I had the satisfaction of distinguishing Captain Palliser and the rest of our party awaiting me on the other bank. The swim­ ming of the horses was a troublesome work, as some of them were very weak," Hector concludes in his journal.

Direction

Fort Edmonton or Edmonton House as it was first known was built by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1795 some 32 km down the North Saskatchewan River at the mouth of the Sturgeon River. William Tomison, the man in charge of the post, is said to have named Edmonton House as it was first called, as a compliment to his clerk John Peter Pruden, who came from Edmonton, Middle­ sex, (now Greater London) England. The post changed location a number of times over the years, the last location Painting: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Ontario being near the site of the Alberta Legislative Building Fort Edmonton in 1846, as recorded by artist Paul Kane. where it remained until it was demolished in 1915.

41 On his arrival in September 1858, expedition leader John Palliser wrote the following about Fort Edmonton: "The fort was then in charge of Mr. Brazeau, an American gentleman, in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, generally in charge of the Rocky Mountain House during the winter, but who comes down to the head quarters of the trade at Edmonton: during the absence in summer of the chief factor, who leaves to attend the coun­ cil at Norway House, Lake Winipeg (sic). Fort Edmonton, the largest fort of the Saskatchewan, is built altogether of wood, consisting of one good-sized house, two stories high, the habitation of the officer in charge of the post; it also contained ourselves afterwards, and some visitors. Adjoining the house are the storehouses of the Company, containing their goods and furs, besides the log-houses in­ habited by the men engaged by the Company, together with their wives and families; the whole is surrounded by wooden pickets or piles firmly driven into the ground close together, and about 20 feet high.

"In shape it is an irregular hexagon, about 100 yards .••'•••• -'.••• •..•••••,••.:••••'••.:?• long, and 70 wide; and contains a population of about 40 Photograph: Provincial Archives, Edmonton, Alberta; E. Brown Collection men, 30 women, and 80 children, almost entirely sup­ Fort Edmonton in 1912 with the Alberta Legislative ported on buffalo meat, the hauling of which, for Buildings behind. sometimes upwards of 250 miles across the plains, is the source of great and most fruitless expense. Indeed the labour and difficulty of providing for a consumption of Little agriculture is carried on about Fort Edmonton, ow­ 700 lbs. of buffalo meat daily, and from so great a ing partly to the want of acquaintance with even the distance, would frequently become very precarious, were it leading principles of agriculture, and principally from the not for an abundant supply of fish from Lake St. Ann, disinclination of both the men and women to work steadily about 50 miles to the west of the fort, whence they are at any agricultural occupation." capable of hauling 30,000 or 40,000 in a season; these are a fine wholesome white fish, averaging four pounds weight Today, the spirit of the fort is being preserved at Fort each. Besides this, great quantities of provisions are traded Edmonton Historic Park where it has been refitted as it here, it is the principal depot for provisions, as the several was in 1846, the year the post was visited by another per­ brigades of boats are most supplied from this place. Few sonality in our series, Following Historic Trails: Paul Kane. fine furs are traded here, those which are obtained being chiefly from half-breeds belonging to the settlement at Thus, in only 57 days the 23 year-old Dr. James Lake St. Ann's, where there is a Roman Catholic mission, Hector had travelled more than 900 km in snow and rain; under the direction of two French priests, who have in­ through swamps and forest fires, over mountains risking duced the halfbreeds to cultivate the ground, and some­ and recovering from injury, all in order to advance scien­ times they realize very fair crops of barley and potatoes. tific knowledge and for the joy of adventure. 42 Photograph: Bruce Haig A rebuilt Fort Edmonton at Fort Edmonton Historic Park.

Photograph: Bruce Haig The restored home of Hector's interpreter and guide Photograph: Glenbow Archives, Calgary, Alberta Peter Erasmus, now located at Fort Edmonton Historic Park, Hector's guide, interpreter and hunter Peter Erasmus, who Edmonton. spoke 10 languages and died at 98 years of age.

43 Photograph: Provincial Archives of Alberta; E. Brown Collection The Kicking Horse Pass, chosen as the route for the Canadian Pacific Railway.

44 Photograph: Glenbow Archives, Calgary Sir James Hector at the time of his return to the Rockies in 1903.

45 Bibliography

Erasmus, Peter. Buffalo Days and Nights. Calgary: Glenbow-Alberta Institute, 1976.

Fraser, Esther. The Canadian Rockies, Edmonton: M.G. Hurtig, 1969.

Holmgren, Eric J. and Patricia M. Place Names of Alberta. Third edition, Saskatoon: Western Producer Prairie Books, 1976.

Patton, Brian. Parkways of the Canadian Rockies. Banff: Summerthought, 1982.

Patton, Brian and Robinson, Bart. The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide Canmore: Devil's Head Press, 1978.

Spry, Irene. The Palliser Expedition. Toronto: Macmillan, 1963.

Spry, Irene. The Palliser Papers 1857-60. Toronto: The Champlain Society, 1968.

Wallace, James Nevin. Early Exploration Along the Bow and Saskatchewan Rivers, from Alberta Historical Review, Spring 1961, pp. 12-21.

Maps are available from:

The Government of Alberta, Department of Energy and Natural Resources, Room 804, 620 - 7 Avenue S.W, Calgary, Ab, T2P 0Y8 46 Bibliography

Erasmus, Peter. Buffalo Days and Nights. Calgary: Glenbow-Alberta Institute, 1976.

Fraser, Esther. The Canadian Rockies, Edmonton: M.G. Hurtig, 1969.

Holmgren, Eric J. and Patricia M. Place Names of Alberta. Third edition, Saskatoon: Western Producer Prairie Books, 1976.

Patton, Brian. Parkways of the Canadian Rockies. Banff: Summerthought, 1982.

Patton, Brian and Robinson, Bart. The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide Canmore: Devil's Head Press, 1978.

Spry, Irene. The Palliser Expedition. Toronto: Macmillan, 1963.

Spry, Irene. The Palliser Papers 1857-60. Toronto: The Champlain Society, 1968.

Wallace, James Nevin. Early Exploration Along the Bow and Saskatchewan Rivers, from Alberta Historical Review, Spring 1961, pp. 12-21.

Maps are available from:

The Government of Alberta, Department of Energy and Natural Resources, Room 804, 620 - 7 Avenue S.W, Calgary, Ab, T2P 0Y8 46 Index Calgary 8 California 2 Canadian Pacific Railway 22,23,24 Abraham, Silas 32 Canmore 10 American Civil War 6 Cascade Mountain 10,12 Athabasca Pass 3 Castle Junction 14,16,17,18,19 Castle Mountain 13,14 Bad Beaver Dam 40 Cline River Crossing 34 Ball, John 4,5 Continental Divide 2,14,21 Banff 10 Banff National Park 31 Darwin, Charles 5 Banff-Windermere Parkway 14,16,17,19 Dawson, George Mercer 10,26 Bath Creek 24 Dolly Varden 18 Beaverfoot River 19,21 Dolomite Peak 26 Beaverfoot Valley 21 Donati's Comet 28 Bibliography 46 Bighorn Creek 35 Edinburgh 1 Bighorn Dam 32,34,35 Edinburgh Academy 1 Bigstone Creek 40 Edinburgh University 1 Blakiston, Thomas 5,6 Edmonton 41,42 Blodget, Lorin 5 Edmonton House 41 Bourgeau, Eugene 5,6,9,10 Elliot Peak 33 Bow Falls 12,13 England 2,3,6,41 Bow Pass 27 Erasmus, Peter 1,9,22,23,33,35,43 Bow Peak 26 Exshaw 9,10 Brazeau, Joseph E. 36,42 Brazeau Mountain Range 35,36 Falun 40 British Columbia 2 Forbes, Edward 31 British Government 2 Fort Carlton 6 British Parliament 6 Fort Edmonton 18,35,38,40,41,42 Brown 9,23 Fort Edmonton Historic Park 42

47 Gabriel, Baptiste 39 Geological Survey of Great Britain 2 Geological Survey of New Zealand 2 Goat Mountain 26 Goodsir, John F. 21 Great Lakes 6 Grotto Mountain 9,10 Guides/outfitters 19

Hector, James 1,5,6,8,9,10,12,13,14,18,19,21,22,23, Lacs Des Arcs 9 24,25,26,27,28,30,32,33,34,35,37,39,40,41,42 Lake, Abraham 32,34 Hector, Douglas 2 Lake, Bearhills 40 Hector, Lady 2 Lake, Bow 27 Highway 1A 8,9,10 Lake, Gabriel's 39 Howse, Joseph 28 Lake, Gap 9,10 Hudson's Bay Company 1,3,4,5,36,37,41,42 Lake, Ghost 8 Hunter, John 22 Lake, Glacier 28,29,30,32 Lake, Gull 39 Icefields Parkway Junction 24,25,26,30,32,33,34 Lake, Hector 26 Ice River Valley 21 Lake, Herbert 25 Indians 1,4,8,14,17,21,22,39 Lake, Mistaya 29 Blackfoot 8,16 Lake, Mud 39 Blood 8 Lake, Peyto 27 Crees 8 Lake, Pigeon 40 Kootenay 16,32 Lake, Prince 39 Peigan 8 Lake, Shunda 36 Sioux 6 Lakes, Vermilion 12,13 Slave 8 Lake, Watelet 40 Stoney 8,9,22,25,26,27,32,33,35 Lake, Winnipeg 42 Last Hill Creek 38 Kane, Paul 42 Lefroy, Sir John Henry 5,14 Kicking Horse Pass 2,24 Leslieville 38,39 Kootenay Crossing, B.C. 19,21 London 4,10 Kootenay Crossing (National Park) 18 Lyell, Sir Charles 31 Kootenay Plains 32,34 Lyell Icefield 31 48 Paint Pots 16 Map 7,15,20,26,39 Palliser, John 2,3,4,5,6,8,21,39,41 Map references 19,29,32,38,39,40 Palliser Expedition 1,2,8,31,34 Metis 1 Patience 40 Mexico 2 Pigeon Lake Creek 40 Middlesex 41 Pigeon Mountain 9 Mistaya River Valley 27 Pine Point 33 Mount Ball 14 Pipestone Valley 26 Mount Bourgeau 11,13 Ponoka 39,40 Mount Eisenhower 13 Pruden, John Peter 41 Mount Forbes 31 Purcell, Dr. Edward 5 Mount Goodsir 21 Mount Hector 25,26 Revelstoke 2 Mount Hunter 22 Richardson, Sir John 5 Mount Lefroy 14 Rimbey 39 Mount Lougheed 9 River, Battle 40 Mount Lyell 31 River, Bighorn 35 Mount Molar 26 River, Blind 39 Mount Murchison 34 River, Bow 4,8,9,26,27,36 Mount Rundle 10 River, Clearwater 38 Mount Vaux 21 River, Columbia 4 Mount Wardle 17 River, Deadman's 8 Murchison, Sir Roderick Impey 2,5,34 River, Ghost 8 River, Howse 28,29 New Zealand 2,6 River, Kicking Horse 22,23,24,28 New Zealand, Institute of 2 River, North Saskatchewan 4,6,28,29,32,34,36, New Zealand, University of 2 38,41,42 Nimrod 9,12,14,17,18,23,24,30,32,33,34,35 River, Red 3,4,6 Nordegg 36 River, South Saskatchewan 4 North West Company 37 River, Sturgeon 41 Norway House 42 River, Vermilion 14,16 Numa Creek 16 Rocky Mountain House 32,36,37,38,42 Rocky Mountain House National Historic Park 37 Old Bow Fort 8,10,34 Rocky Mountains 3,4,8,13,38 Oregon Territory 3 Rogers, Major A.B. 24 Oregon Trail 3 Royal Geographical Society 24 Otago, Province of 2 Rundle, Reverend Robert 10 49 Sabine, Sir Edward 4 Saint Ann, Lake 42 Saskatoon 6 Sawback Range 13 Scotland 1 Scott, Sir Walter 1 Sentinel Mountain 33 Shunda Creek 42 Simpson, Sir George 3,4,5,13 Simpson Pass 4 Usona 40 Sinclair, James 4 Spiral Tunnel 24 Vancouver Island 2,3 Stoney Indian Park 8 Vaux, William S.W. 21 Stoney Plain 40 Vermilion Crossing 16 Stony Plain 40 Vermilion Pass 14,16,27 Sullivan, John W. 5,6,31 Vermilion Plain 16 Sullivan's Peak 31 Summit Lake 23 Wapta Falls 22 Sutherland 9,14,31 Waterfowl Lake 28 West Kootenay Trail 19 Tershishner Creek 34 Whirlpool Point 32,33 Thompson, David 3 Whitemud Creek 41 Thompson, David (Highway) 28,29,32,33,34,35,36 Wind (Windy) Mountain 9 Three Sisters Mountain 10 Winnipeg 3 Tomison, William 41 Trans-Canada Highway 10,13,19,21,22,23,24,25,27,28 Yoho National Park 19,21,23,24 Tunnel Mountain 12,13 York Factory 6 50 Bruce Haig was born in 1936 in Lethbridge, Alberta and attended the University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon. He taught school in Lethbridge for 20 years and is pro­ bably best known for developing the "Trek" program which gave students the opportunity to follow historic trails as part of their school program. Alberta Historical Resources Foundation was established In 1978 he organized the Historic Trails Society of in 1975 as a provincial Crown Agency to preserve and Alberta. The Society was involved in the erection of a restore historic resources for the use, enjoyment and plaque, at the North Kootenay Pass, honouring the ex­ benefit of the people of Alberta; and to promote and plorer Thomas Blakiston. In 1982 the society organized a encourage heritage and architectural preservation, in all paddleboat festival to commemorate the 100th anniversary forms, by the people of Alberta. of the first sternwheelers to travel the rivers of southern Alberta. He is currently working on the story of the 19th It is financed by contributions from the Western Canada century artist Paul Kane and his tour of the Canadian Lottery, Alberta Division; Alberta Culture, corporate Rockies, the second book in the series, Following Historic and private donations and members' fees. Trails. In his spare time he is an enthusiastic computerphile. Alberta Historical Resources Foundation 102 - 8th Avenue S.E. Bruce, who is married with three children, continues Calgary, Alberta T2G 0K6 to make his home in Lethbridge. (403) 297-7320 51