E XPLORING BRITAIN’ S COASTLINE

In this first article in a series exploring the British coastline, Alf Alderson takes us on a tour of the Coast National Park. With its many dramatic stretches of cliff, such as St Govan’s Head, and breathtaking beaches – Whitesands beach has recently been voted one of the world’s top 20 – the Pembrokeshire coast easily qualifies as one of Britain’s most beautiful places. Photography by Caroline Jones. Mystery and Enchantment in Pembrokeshire

HE FACT THAT colourful wildflowers in one of the Pembrokeshire is a little sunniest corners of the British Isles. Seals, bit special is not exactly porpoises, dolphins and even whales may ‘breaking news’. As long be seen in the offshore waters; and you ago as the 12th century, can literally walk through history, taking the ancient book of folk in everything from Iron Age standing Ttales known as The Mabinogion used the stones to medieval castles and cathedrals phrase ‘gwlad hud a lledrith’ to describe in the course of a single day. this region of south , and for many Pembrokeshire was an important who know and love the area this poetic centre for Iron Age Celts and the north phrase still holds true today, for it of the county has remained a stronghold translates as ‘the land of mystery of Welsh culture and tradition for and enchantment’. millennia. It was from the windswept Jutting out into the Gulf Stream- highlands of north Pembrokeshire’s warmed water of the Atlantic Ocean, Preseli Hills that the bluestones of Pembrokeshire is at once both the Stonehenge originated, and today this expected and the unexpected. Yes, it area is as quiet as it ever was – just the rains a lot and winter gales here can lift occasional walker, horserider or people off their feet and throw sea spray mountain-biker to be seen. over the top of 150-foot high headlands. Back towards the coast, the focal point Yet in summer you can walk along for many visitors is St David’s, Britain’s sun-drenched footpaths ablaze with smallest city (population 2500) and the

RIGHT The towering cliffs of St Govan’s Head have the power to attract adventurous climbers and walkers. The waves have carved their coarse limestone for millions of years. E XPLORING BRITAIN’ S COASTLINE

MAIN PICTURE, LEFT Horses graze in the morning light on Martin’s Haven reserve.

ABOVE, LEFT St David’s Head at dusk.

ABOVE, RIGHT Coetan Arthur, an Iron Age chambered burial cairn, perched on St David’s Head.

BELOW This fine example of a 12th-century Celtic cross, Carew Cross, stands 14 feet high and is a memorial to the Welsh king, Maredudd ap Edwin, at Carew Castle.

birthplace of Wales’ patron saint. In the 600-foot climb from Whitesands Middle Ages a papal decree said that St Beach to the bare rock summit of David’s Cathedral was so holy that two Carn Llidi, from where most of North pilgrimages here were the equivalent of Pembrokeshire can be seen. Look one to Rome. Today’s pilgrims tend to seawards for the most dramatic views, arrive with surfboards, in their search for however, with the islands of Ramsey, a different kind of ‘holy water’. Skomer, and Grassholm and Indeed, while the past is very much a a score of tiny islets riding above the part of any visit to Pembrokeshire, it is blue Atlantic swells. undoubtedly the coastline that sticks in If you are thinking the islands sound most people’s memories. The more Scandinavian than Welsh, you are stretches 186 right – they were named by Viking miles, from Poppit Sands in the north to marauders in the 10th century. Each Amroth in the south. It can be walked in island has internationally important two weeks by competent hikers but the wildlife populations. Skomer and majority of visitors cherry-pick sections Skokholm have between them the to enjoy over the course of a day.These world’s largest population of Manx vary enormously, from breezy clifftops shearwaters, with over 130,000 pairs, plunging to hidden harbours, such as whilst Ramsey is a haven for Atlantic Solva and Stackpole Quay, to long, wild, grey seals, and Grassholm has the second sweeping golden beaches like Newgale largest gannet colony in Britain. You can and Freshwater West; or the low cliffs take boat trips out to the islands from above the wild swirling waters of St Justinian’s near St David’s and Martin’s Ramsey Sound near St David’s, where Haven near Dale; on the way you will lifeboats have been sunk and kayakers probably see porpoises and may also spot take on the raging rapids off Ramsey dolphins, whales, sunfish and sharks. Island, known as The Bitches. Pembrokeshire’s north and south coasts One of my favourite walks in this area, are neatly divided by the deepest port in whatever the season, is the undemanding Europe, the Milford Haven Waterway,

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“ Celtic myths once again hang in the air. King Arthur’s sword Excalibur is said to lie beneath the waters of Bosherston Lakes. ”

where a bizarre piece of government Carew Castle, with its magnificent Somewhat less tranquil than the lakes legislation that allows developments Elizabethan facade, watermill and are the streets of nearby Tenby, but then within national parks that are considered an ancient, graceful 12th-century Dinbych-y-Pysgod as it is known in to be ‘in the national interest’ has Celtic cross. Welsh (which in English translates rather resulted in the installation of oil To the south of the Waterway the delightfully to the ‘little town of the refineries in the midst of otherwise coastline has a very different feel from fishes’) has always been a busy and quite pristine coastal estuaries. It says the wild, rugged north. The white cosmopolitan settlement. A walk around something for the scenery of the limestone cliffs and sea stacks that soar the town’s atmospheric, narrow streets Waterway and the coastline on either up from the jade-green seas along the will reveal architecture and buildings that side of it that this development has Castlemartin Peninsula are no less cover every period from Norman times had a relatively small impact on the impressive, with the spectacular rocks of to the present day. Some of the highlights landscape – I recently walked a section St Govan’s Head tumbling into the sea. include the 15th-century Tudor of the Coast Path along the Dale There is a warmth and tranquillity about Merchant’s House, town walls and town Peninsula at the western end of the the coastline here, however, that is not gateway and the Regency-period Laston Waterway and easily lost the refineries so apparent in the north. Barafundle Bay House, a former seawater baths above the among the superb natural surroundings. not only has a delightful name but surely harbour, where the legend ‘The sea ead upriver of Milford Haven rivals Whitesands in the beauty stakes, washes away the ills of men’ is inscribed Waterway into the Daugleddau and the golden sands of Broadhaven in Greek above the doorway. HEstuary and you will discover South are also a serious contender – local ou cannot put this assertion to a part of Pembrokeshire that most visitors surfers also love this spot and ride the the test in the baths anymore tend to miss.The glassy, tree-lined waters waves to within a few feet of the shore. Ybut you can on one of Tenby’s here are reminiscent of the sinuous inlets A lovely stroll here takes in all that is two beaches, or on the scores of others and rias of Cornwall’s south coast and best on Wales’ south coast.Wander inland throughout the county for that matter. the river banks make the perfect spot from the sun-warmed sands for just a Why not try the two walks that follow for a lazy picnic, where you may even few hundred yards to the tranquil overleaf, one at Whitesands Bay and the see otters and kingfishers doing ottery - Bosherston Lakes, three lily ponds where, other at Marloes? Whether you will and kingfishery-type things. as in North Pembrokeshire, Celtic myths agree that Whitesands is the best beach Follow the river and its tributaries far once again hang in the air. King Arthur’s when you have checked out all the rest, enough inland and you will pass two sword Excalibur is said to lie beneath who knows, but few would doubt that of the grandest fortifications in Wales – the ponds’ waters, but as they were what the medieval scribes said about 12th-century Pembroke Castle, the actually created artificially as part of an Pembrokeshire nine centuries ago is imposing turreted and crenellated 18th-century landscaping project this still true today – it remains full of both birthplace of King Henry VII, and seems rather unlikely! mystery and enchantment.

TOP ROW, LEFT AND BOTTOM ROW, RIGHT The tranquillity of Bosherston Lakes draws many visitors. TOP ROW, RIGHT Skomer Island, seen here from Martin’s Haven, has the largest seabird colony in southern Britain.

MIDDLE ROW, LEFT St Govan’s Chapel is thought to date from the 13th century but legend tells that St Govan was actually Sir Gawain seeking sanctuary after the death of Arthur, in the 5th century. RIGHT Barafundle Bay’s unspoilt golden sands and grassy dunes are well worth the steep walk required to reach them.

BOTTOM ROW, LEFT The imposing Elizabethan facade of Carew Castle. There has been a fortification on this site for many hundreds of years, possibly as far back as the Iron Age.

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TWO FAVOURITE WALKS ALONG THE PEMBROKESHIRE COAST

WALK 2 DALE PENINSULA interesting geological features. An easy day hike along the coast Beyond this, you overlook START POINT: Marloes village Island, which was once MAP: Ordnance Survey Outdoor heavily populated and has traces Leisure 36 (1:25,000), South of over 130 Iron Age dwellings. Pembrokeshire; Landranger 157 Continue walking and eventually (1:50,000) St David’s & you come to Renny Slip. Haverfordwest From here you climb up on to 1 DISTANCE: 9 ⁄2 miles the Deer Park , from where FOOD & DRINK: The Lobster Pot pub, you’ll have excellent views across Marloes Jack Sound to Midland Isle and Skomer Island – the fierce tidal ROUTE: From Marloes village races and heavy swells here have churchyard, turn right and follow sunk many ships. As you move on to the north side of the peninsula the road to Marloes Sands. Take the first left and walk down there are superb views across the lane to Little Marloes Farm. St Brides Bay to the St At the farm entrance follow the David’s Peninsula. footpath sign to the left, along Following the Coast Path WALK 1 WHITESANDS BAY head. It also gives you a chance the field edge, across a stile and east along the north side of the TO CARN LLIDI to visit the fascin ating Neolithic along the edge of the old airfield peninsula, you drop down to A short, moderate walk uphill for views burial chamber of Coetan Arthur, track as far as Red Cliff (the air- Martin’s Haven then climb up which dates back some 5500 field dates back to the Second again to walk along the relatively START POINT: Whitesands Bay years. Alternatively, follow the World War and was one of a low cliffs to Musselwick Sands car park obvious path which climbs up to number of defences built on the (the name Musselwick, like MAP: Ordnance Survey Outdoor the summit of Carn Llidi . coast here). Skomer, is of Nordic origin, Leisure 35 (1:25,000), North This route is not too steep, At Red Cliff turn right onto and means Mussel Bay). Pembrokeshire; Landranger 157 apart from the craggy summit, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Turn right off the Coast Path (1:50,000) St David’s & where a little bit of scrambling is which you now follow west to at Musselwick Mouth and Haverfordwest involved; but at just under 600 the end of the peninsula. First follow the path to the road. Here 1 DISTANCE: 2 ⁄2 miles feet in height you get surprisingly you pass above Marloes Sands, turn left and take the road back FOOD & DRINK: Whitesands Beach dramatic views from the top – a popular beach with some to Marloes village. BB Café and in St David’s (2 miles) much of North Pembrokeshire is ROUTE: From the car park at visible, including the Preseli Hills Whitesands first take the and all the major offshore islands. Pembrokeshire Coast Path north, If it is very clear (usually when a climbing gently up to the cliffs to north wind is blowing) you may enjoy fine views out towards the even see Ireland’s Wicklow Hills. offshore islands. After about half a You’ll notice a few remnants mile you’ll find yourself above the of human activity on the summit little cove of Porth Melgan . and slopes of Carn Llidi – these Here you can turn left and take are the remains of observation the out-and-back walk to St posts from the First and Second David’s Head – this is a round World Wars. trip of less than a mile which is Then, once you have had your well worth it, for if there is a big fill of the view, either retrace swell running the seas are your footsteps back down or spectacular out here, and if not take one of several alternative G N

you may see porpoises chasing footpaths that are easy to follow U O Y

fish in the racing waters off the back to Whitesands. H A R A S

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