Calculating Water Wavelength Using Dispersion Relation and Approximation
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Dispersion of Tsunamis: Does It Really Matter? and Physics and Physics Discussions Open Access Open Access S
EGU Journal Logos (RGB) Open Access Open Access Open Access Advances in Annales Nonlinear Processes Geosciences Geophysicae in Geophysics Open Access Open Access Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 13, 1507–1526, 2013 Natural Hazards Natural Hazards www.nat-hazards-earth-syst-sci.net/13/1507/2013/ doi:10.5194/nhess-13-1507-2013 and Earth System and Earth System © Author(s) 2013. CC Attribution 3.0 License. Sciences Sciences Discussions Open Access Open Access Atmospheric Atmospheric Chemistry Chemistry Dispersion of tsunamis: does it really matter? and Physics and Physics Discussions Open Access Open Access S. Glimsdal1,2,3, G. K. Pedersen1,3, C. B. Harbitz1,2,3, and F. Løvholt1,2,3 Atmospheric Atmospheric 1International Centre for Geohazards (ICG), Sognsveien 72, Oslo, Norway Measurement Measurement 2Norwegian Geotechnical Institute, Sognsveien 72, Oslo, Norway 3University of Oslo, Blindern, Oslo, Norway Techniques Techniques Discussions Open Access Correspondence to: S. Glimsdal ([email protected]) Open Access Received: 30 November 2012 – Published in Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss.: – Biogeosciences Biogeosciences Revised: 5 April 2013 – Accepted: 24 April 2013 – Published: 18 June 2013 Discussions Open Access Abstract. This article focuses on the effect of dispersion in 1 Introduction Open Access the field of tsunami modeling. Frequency dispersion in the Climate linear long-wave limit is first briefly discussed from a the- Climate Most tsunami modelers rely on the shallow-water equations oretical point of view. A single parameter, denoted as “dis- of the Past for predictions of propagationof and the run-up. Past Some groups, on persion time”, for the integrated effect of frequency dis- Discussions the other hand, insist on applying dispersive wave models, persion is identified. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Waves and Weather
Waves and Weather 1. Where do waves come from? 2. What storms produce good surfing waves? 3. Where do these storms frequently form? 4. Where are the good areas for receiving swells? Where do waves come from? ==> Wind! Any two fluids (with different density) moving at different speeds can produce waves. In our case, air is one fluid and the water is the other. • Start with perfectly glassy conditions (no waves) and no wind. • As wind starts, will first get very small capillary waves (ripples). • Once ripples form, now wind can push against the surface and waves can grow faster. Within Wave Source Region: - all wavelengths and heights mixed together - looks like washing machine ("Victory at Sea") But this is what we want our surfing waves to look like: How do we get from this To this ???? DISPERSION !! In deep water, wave speed (celerity) c= gT/2π Long period waves travel faster. Short period waves travel slower Waves begin to separate as they move away from generation area ===> This is Dispersion How Big Will the Waves Get? Height and Period of waves depends primarily on: - Wind speed - Duration (how long the wind blows over the waves) - Fetch (distance that wind blows over the waves) "SMB" Tables How Big Will the Waves Get? Assume Duration = 24 hours Fetch Length = 500 miles Significant Significant Wind Speed Wave Height Wave Period 10 mph 2 ft 3.5 sec 20 mph 6 ft 5.5 sec 30 mph 12 ft 7.5 sec 40 mph 19 ft 10.0 sec 50 mph 27 ft 11.5 sec 60 mph 35 ft 13.0 sec Wave height will decay as waves move away from source region!!! Map of Mean Wind -
Double Negative Dispersion Relations from Coated Plasmonic Rods∗
MULTISCALE MODEL. SIMUL. c 2013 Society for Industrial and Applied Mathematics Vol. 11, No. 1, pp. 192–212 DOUBLE NEGATIVE DISPERSION RELATIONS FROM COATED PLASMONIC RODS∗ YUE CHEN† AND ROBERT LIPTON‡ Abstract. A metamaterial with frequency dependent double negative effective properties is constructed from a subwavelength periodic array of coated rods. Explicit power series are developed for the dispersion relation and associated Bloch wave solutions. The expansion parameter is the ratio of the length scale of the periodic lattice to the wavelength. Direct numerical simulations for finite size period cells show that the leading order term in the power series for the dispersion relation is a good predictor of the dispersive behavior of the metamaterial. Key words. metamaterials, dispersion relations, Bloch waves, simulations AMS subject classifications. 35Q60, 68U20, 78A48, 78M40 DOI. 10.1137/120864702 1. Introduction. Metamaterials are artificial materials designed to have elec- tromagnetic properties not generally found in nature. One contemporary area of research explores novel subwavelength constructions that deliver metamaterials with both a negative bulk dielectric constant and bulk magnetic permeability across cer- tain frequency intervals. These double negative materials are promising materials for the creation of negative index superlenses that overcome the small diffraction limit and have great potential in applications such as biomedical imaging, optical lithography, and data storage. The early work of Veselago [39] identified novel ef- fects associated with hypothetical materials for which both the dielectric constant and magnetic permeability are simultaneously negative. Such double negative media support electromagnetic wave propagation in which the phase velocity is antiparallel to the direction of energy flow and other unusual electromagnetic effects, such as the reversal of the Doppler effect and Cerenkov radiation. -
Marine Forecasting at TAFB [email protected]
Marine Forecasting at TAFB [email protected] 1 Waves 101 Concepts and basic equations 2 Have an overall understanding of the wave forecasting challenge • Wave growth • Wave spectra • Swell propagation • Swell decay • Deep water waves • Shallow water waves 3 Wave Concepts • Waves form by the stress induced on the ocean surface by physical wind contact with water • Begin with capillary waves with gradual growth dependent on conditions • Wave decay process begins immediately as waves exit wind generation area…a.k.a. “fetch” area 4 5 Wave Growth There are three basic components to wave growth: • Wind speed • Fetch length • Duration Wave growth is limited by either fetch length or duration 6 Fully Developed Sea • When wave growth has reached a maximum height for a given wind speed, fetch and duration of wind. • A sea for which the input of energy to the waves from the local wind is in balance with the transfer of energy among the different wave components, and with the dissipation of energy by wave breaking - AMS. 7 Fetches 8 Dynamic Fetch 9 Wave Growth Nomogram 10 Calculate Wave H and T • What can we determine for wave characteristics from the following scenario? • 40 kt wind blows for 24 hours across a 150 nm fetch area? • Using the wave nomogram – start on left vertical axis at 40 kt • Move forward in time to the right until you reach either 24 hours or 150 nm of fetch • What is limiting factor? Fetch length or time? • Nomogram yields 18.7 ft @ 9.6 sec 11 Wave Growth Nomogram 12 Wave Dimensions • C=Wave Celerity • L=Wave Length • -
Basin Scale Tsunami Propagation Modeling Using Boussinesq Models: Parallel Implementation in Spherical Coordinates
WCCE – ECCE – TCCE Joint Conference: EARTHQUAKE & TSUNAMI BASIN SCALE TSUNAMI PROPAGATION MODELING USING BOUSSINESQ MODELS: PARALLEL IMPLEMENTATION IN SPHERICAL COORDINATES J. T. Kirby1, N. Pophet2, F. Shi1, S. T. Grilli3 ABSTRACT We derive weakly nonlinear, weakly dispersive model equations for propagation of surface gravity waves in a shallow, homogeneous ocean of variable depth on the surface of a rotating sphere. A numerical scheme is developed based on the staggered-grid finite difference formulation of Shi et al (2001). The model is implemented using the domain decomposition technique in conjunction with the message passing interface (MPI). The efficiency tests show a nearly linear speedup on a Linux cluster. Relative importance of frequency dispersion and Coriolis force is evaluated in both the scaling analysis and the numerical simulation of an idealized case on a sphere. 1 INTRODUCTION The conventional models in the global-scale tsunami modeling are based on the shallow water equations and neglect frequency dispersion effects in wave propagation. Recent studies on tsunami modeling revealed that such tsunami models may not be satisfactory in predicting tsunamis caused by nonseismic sources (Løvholt et al., 2008). For seismic tsunamis, the frequency dispersion effects in the long distance propagation of tsunami fronts may become significant. The numerical simulations of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami by Glimsdal et al. (2006) and Grue et al. (2008) indicated the undular bores may evolve in shallow water, as the phenomenon evidenced in observations (Shuto, 1985). In the simulation for the same tsunami by Grilli et al. (2007), the dispersive effects were quantified by running the dispersive Boussinesq model FUNWAVE (Kirby et al., 1998) and the NSWE solver. -
Shallow Water Waves and Solitary Waves Article Outline Glossary
Shallow Water Waves and Solitary Waves Willy Hereman Department of Mathematical and Computer Sciences, Colorado School of Mines, Golden, Colorado, USA Article Outline Glossary I. Definition of the Subject II. Introduction{Historical Perspective III. Completely Integrable Shallow Water Wave Equations IV. Shallow Water Wave Equations of Geophysical Fluid Dynamics V. Computation of Solitary Wave Solutions VI. Water Wave Experiments and Observations VII. Future Directions VIII. Bibliography Glossary Deep water A surface wave is said to be in deep water if its wavelength is much shorter than the local water depth. Internal wave A internal wave travels within the interior of a fluid. The maximum velocity and maximum amplitude occur within the fluid or at an internal boundary (interface). Internal waves depend on the density-stratification of the fluid. Shallow water A surface wave is said to be in shallow water if its wavelength is much larger than the local water depth. Shallow water waves Shallow water waves correspond to the flow at the free surface of a body of shallow water under the force of gravity, or to the flow below a horizontal pressure surface in a fluid. Shallow water wave equations Shallow water wave equations are a set of partial differential equations that describe shallow water waves. 1 Solitary wave A solitary wave is a localized gravity wave that maintains its coherence and, hence, its visi- bility through properties of nonlinear hydrodynamics. Solitary waves have finite amplitude and propagate with constant speed and constant shape. Soliton Solitons are solitary waves that have an elastic scattering property: they retain their shape and speed after colliding with each other. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Dispersion Coefficients for Coastal Regions
(!1vL- L/0;z7 /- NUREG/CR-3149 PNL-4627 Dispersion Coefficients for Coastal Regions Prepared by B. L. MacRae, R. J. Kaleel, D. L. Shearer/ TRC TRC Environmental Consultants, Inc. Pacific Northwest Laboratory Operated by Battelle Memorial Institute Prepared for U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission NOTICE This report was prepared as an account of work sponsored by an agency of the United States Government. Neither the United States Government nor any agency thereof, or any of their employees, makes any warranty, expressed or implied, or assumes any legal liability of re sponsibility for any third party's use, or the results of such use, of any information, apparatus, product or process disclosed in this report, or represents that its use by such third party would not infringe privately owned rights. Availability of Reference Materials Cited in NRC Publications Most documents cited in NRC publications will be available from one of the following sources: 1. The NRC Public Document Room, 1717 H Street, N.W. Washington, DC 20555 2 The NRC/GPO Sales Program, U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission, Washington, DC 20555 3. The National Technical Information Service, Springfield, VA 22161 Although the listing that follows represents the majority of documents cited in NRC publications, it is not intended to be exhaustive. Referenced documents available for inspection and copying for a fee from the NRC Public Docu ment Room include NRC correspondence and ir.ternal NRC memoranda; NRC Office of Inspection and Enforcement bulletins, circulars, information not1ces, inspection and investigation notices; licensee Event Reports; vendor reports and correspondence; Commission papers; and applicant and licensee documents and correspondence. -
Plasma Waves
Plasma Waves S.M.Lea January 2007 1 General considerations To consider the different possible normal modes of a plasma, we will usually begin by assuming that there is an equilibrium in which the plasma parameters such as density and magnetic field are uniform and constant in time. We will then look at small perturbations away from this equilibrium, and investigate the time and space dependence of those perturbations. The usual notation is to label the equilibrium quantities with a subscript 0, e.g. n0, and the pertrubed quantities with a subscript 1, eg n1. Then the assumption of small perturbations is n /n 1. When the perturbations are small, we can generally ignore j 1 0j ¿ squares and higher powers of these quantities, thus obtaining a set of linear equations for the unknowns. These linear equations may be Fourier transformed in both space and time, thus reducing the differential equations to a set of algebraic equations. Equivalently, we may assume that each perturbed quantity has the mathematical form n = n exp i~k ~x iωt (1) 1 ¢ ¡ where the real part is implicitly assumed. Th³is form descri´bes a wave. The amplitude n is in ~ general complex, allowing for a non•zero phase constant φ0. The vector k, called the wave vector, gives both the direction of propagation of the wave and the wavelength: k = 2π/λ; ω is the angular frequency. There is a relation between ω and ~k that is determined by the physical properties of the system. The function ω ~k is called the dispersion relation for the wave. -
Dispersion Relation & Index Ellipsoids
8/27/2020 Advanced Electromagnetics: 21st Century Electromagnetics Dispersion Relation & Index Ellipsoids Lecture Outline • Dispersion relation • Dispersion surfaces • Index ellipsoids Slide 2 1 8/27/2020 Dispersion Relation Slide 3 The Wave Vector The wave vector (wave momentum) is a vector quantity that conveys two pieces of information: 1. Wavelength and Refractive Index –The magnitude of the wave vector conveys the spatial period (i.e. wavelength) of the wave inside the material. When the frequency is known, the magnitude conveys the material’s refractive index n (more to be said later). 22 n k 0 free space wavelength 0 2. Direction –The direction of the wave is perpendicular to the wave fronts (more to be said later). ˆ kkakbkcabcˆˆ Slide 4 2 8/27/2020 The Dispersion Relation The dispersion relation for a material relates the wave vector to frequency . Essentially, it sets a rule for the values of as a function of direction and frequency. For an ordinary linear, homogeneous and isotropic (LHI) material, the dispersion relation is: 2 222n kkkabc c0 222 kkkabc 2 This can also be written as: 2 kk000 nc0 Slide 5 How to Derive the Dispersion Relation (1 of 2) The wave equation in a linear homogeneous anisotropic material is: 2 Assume no magnetic response i. e. 1 . Ek 00 r E 0 The solution to this equation is still a plane wave, but the allowed values for (modes) are more complicated. jk r ˆ E Ee00 E Eaabcˆˆ Eb Ec Substituting this solution into the wave equation leads to the following relation: 2 kk E000r0 kE k E 0 This equation has the form: abcˆˆ ˆ 0 Each (•••) term has the form: EEEabc 0 Each vector component must be set to zero independently. -
Detection and Characterization of Meteotsunamis in the Gulf of Genoa
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Detection and Characterization of Meteotsunamis in the Gulf of Genoa Paola Picco 1,*, Maria Elisabetta Schiano 2, Silvio Incardone 1, Luca Repetti 1, Maurizio Demarte 1, Sara Pensieri 2,* and Roberto Bozzano 2 1 Italian Hydrographic Service, passo dell’Osservatorio, 4, 16135 Genova, Italy 2 Institute for the study of the anthropic impacts and the sustainability of the marine environment, National Research Council of Italy, via De Marini 6, 16149 Genova, Italy * Correspondence: [email protected] (P.P.); [email protected] (S.P.) Received: 30 May 2019; Accepted: 10 August 2019; Published: 15 August 2019 Abstract: A long-term time series of high-frequency sampled sea-level data collected in the port of Genoa were analyzed to detect the occurrence of meteotsunami events and to characterize them. Time-frequency analysis showed well-developed energy peaks on a 26–30 minute band, which are an almost permanent feature in the analyzed signal. The amplitude of these waves is generally few centimeters but, in some cases, they can reach values comparable or even greater than the local tidal elevation. In the perspective of sea-level rise, their assessment can be relevant for sound coastal work planning and port management. Events having the highest energy were selected for detailed analysis and the main features were identified and characterized by means of wavelet transform. The most important one occurred on 14 October 2016, when the oscillations, generated by an abrupt jump in the atmospheric pressure, achieved a maximum wave height of 50 cm and lasted for about three hours.