THE WEEKENDER

Merano Thermal Baths

Words by CORE IVAN CARVALHO RELAXATION , ALTO Don’t put all your apples in one basket when taking the waters in this Italian spa town, where the best of the Dolomites is ripe for the picking

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The indoor pool at the Merano Thermal Baths

estled in the ting expert hands knead out the gorgeous knots on the massage table. Dolomites, Merano is Waterworld a town with Merano’s claim to fame is its a N split personality. The health curative waters, which locals resort is in ’s northern- have been pumping from most province, Alto Adige nearby Monte San Vigilio for (also known as South Tirol), decades. Residents and tourists and was part of until alike take advantage of its thera- the end of World War I. First- peutic properties, said to cure time visitors may feel lost since aching joints and respiratory at every turn there are signs ailments, at the Merano Ther- in German and Italian, but the mal Baths, a sleek glass-and- blend of cultures makes for the steel cube designed by architect best of both worlds. Teutonic Matteo Thun. The sprawling e!ciency is paired with Ital- complex with lush gardens ian café culture, and the food counts 25 swimming pools scene has something for every- inside and out, steam baths and one: there’s the local brew- an in-house spa specializing in ery with its beer garden, bars Tirolean treatments (hay baths, serving great vintages by the skin peels with apples and soaks glass from surrounding winer- in wooden tubs filled with red Kallmünz chef ies, and a host of promising wine). Luigi Ottaiano chefs engaged in cooking up Piazza Terme 9. Day pass from inventive menus split evenly Trauttmansdor! Castle, where $25. www.termemerano.it Sissi’s ‘egg-within-an-egg’ between Mediterranean and Austrian royalty once wintered, carbonara I hearty mountain fare. Even the Garden of plenty terraced gardens are home to AGG scenery will have guests doing Blessed with over 300 days of exotic flora. Travelers looking to I CAMB

a double take, with palms and sunshine a year and ringed by stretch their legs can tour the A I

olive groves amid the pine trees high mountains that keep out grounds to discover a rice pad- A G :

and snowcapped peaks. Most cold air from the north, Mera- dy and tea plantation, as well E L

vacationers, however, will be no’s mild climate supports a as lemon and orange groves. In DD more interested in unwinding wealth of vegetation not usu- April, tulips bloom, followed by MI in one of the hotel spas and let- ally spotted at this latitude. At roses and lavender in June. !

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The Botanical gardens at Trauttmansdorff Castle

The tasting room at the Alois Lageder Winery

Cantina Tramin

Via San Valentino 51. Open April apples eaten in Europe. Many to mid-November. $15. varieties of apple can be found www.trauttmansdor!.it in the orchards that encircle the town, and many wind up in Cider haus rules the juices, strudels and spar- Those keen to take home local kling cider sold in the shop. Ask wines, mostly from regional music is played in the cellars to goodies should make a beeline to see the curing room down- vintners. Each week, dozens soothe the grapes. Put nose to for the Kurhaus, an art nou- stairs, where legs of speck (the of bottles are opened in the glass and sample a red made veau building on the town’s Tirolean answer to prosciutto) store’s high-tech tasting room. from lagrein, a native grape. main promenade that origi- are hung to air-dry. Oenophiles should rent a car Afterward, backtrack to the vil- nally served as a spa. Today, Corso della Libertà 35. and explore the local wine lage of Tramin, birthplace of it houses Pur Südtirol, a gro- www.pursuedtirol.com country (www.suedtiroler- the aromatic gewürztraminer, cer styled on a farmers market weinstrasse.it). A visit to bio- and pull up at the modernist where shoppers can find hun- Vine trail dynamic grower Alois Lageder nest of cooperative Cantina dreds of regional foodstu"s. A few blocks away on the other (Vicolo del Conti 9. www.alois- Tramin (Strada del Vino 144. I AGG Even the interiors are designed side of the River Passer, Pur’s lageder.eu), recently named www.cantina tramin.it). Among I with local produce in mind: owners manage the Mera- Sustainable Winery of the Year the highlights is the sauvignon CAMB

A shelves are made from recycled ner Weinhaus (Via Roma 76. by Italy’s wine bible Gambero Montan, favored by somme- I A apple crates – the province www.meranerweinhaus.com), Rosso, is worth the half-hour liers, and the dessert wine Ter- G grows more than 10% of the an enoteca that stocks 2,000 drive to Magrè, where classical minum, grown in a sheltered !

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Traditional Tirolean treats and crafts at Pur Südtirol

vineyard conducive to the ben- ers between courses such as eficial noble rot. “liquid pizza,” a shot of soft cheese, herbs and tomato, and Liquid pizza a spoon-sized apple pie made Back in Merano, diners are with apple essence and served spoiled for choice. The town with a cinnamon bread stick. boasts several elegant eateries For entrées, there’s an “egg- that would not be out of place within-an-egg” carbonara with Workers picking if parachuted into the middle asparagus and shoulder of lamb apples in Merano of Manhattan. At Kallmünz in a pistachio nut pastry. If you (Piazza Rena 12. Tel: +39 0473 go for a bottle, order the Gant 212917. www.kallmuenz. it), merlot from Kellerei-Cantina Neapolitan chef Luigi Ottaiano Andrian (www.kellerei-andrian. skillfully blends Italian and com) and tuck into some of Japanese flavors – sashimi for Fenoglio’s meat dishes. starters followed by asparagus wrapped in duck breast, oxtail Water beds ravioli or barley fettuccine with Those wishing to maximize rabbit sauce. While Tokyo- their contact with the health- ite and sommelier Masashi giving waters at the thermal Yamashita does his own ver- baths should check in to the sion of fusion, ably pairing adjacent Hotel Terme Merano each course with a Tirolean (Piazza Terme 1. Tel: +39 0473 white or red. Andrea Feno- 259000. Rooms from $325. I AGG glio’s Michelin-starred Sissi www.hoteltermemerano.com). I

(Via Galileo Galilei 44. Tel: +39 It has its own private entrance CAMB

A 0473 231062. www.andrea- to the baths and a plush lounge A suite at the I A fenoglio.com) is every bit as in dark cherry red with leather Imperial Art Hotel G ! creative, sending out little teas- sofas and antler-accented

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lampshades. Privacy seekers can try the intimate Imperial Art (Corso della Libertà 110. Tel: +39 0473 237172. Rooms from $155. www.imperialart.it) across the street from grocer Pur Südtirol. Rooms are deco- rated with contemporary art- work and a mix of vintage fur- niture. Downstairs, a simple breakfast is prepared in the adjoining café that sports a vast collection of old-fashioned stovetop espresso makers – the house roast comes from Schreyögg, the locals’ Lavazza. For nature lovers wanting to get away from it all, beds can be booked through Gallo Rosso (www.redrooster.it), a network of working farms that double as bed-and-breakfasts. They make their own cheeses, preserves and liqueurs, and o"er comfort food such as canederli (Tirolean dumplings).

! GO TO MILAN SAS takes you to Milan from Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. Book your trip at www.fly- Courtyard dining sas.com or use your EuroBonus points at Kallmünz starting at 18,000 points one way

It’s what comes with your MEN LOVE IT. steak that makes your meal healthy or not. Women need it. At Big Horn - you pick your side orders by choice! Beef is lean meat and your main source of iron: Your best choices: Kcal Fat total per g. Saturated fat Unsaturated fat Iron mg Beef tenderloin 118 3,7 1,7 1,4 equals 38,0% 2,5 Beef sirloin 110 2,3 1,0 1,0 equals 43,5% 2,1 Beef top loin 110 2,3 1,0 1,0 equals 43.5% 2,3 BIGHORN.NO !""#$%&'($)*"&($ +,-$$ +./$$ ,.0$$$ ,.1$$ "23&4)$5/.,6$$ 7.8$ 94 APRIL 2012 SCANORAMA Source: Opplysningskontoret for egg og kjøtt. 29 RESTAURANTS IN NORWAY* * One restaurant in Puerto Rico, Gran Canaria.