Eileen Fisher at 30 for Three Decades, Eileen Fisher Has Kept True to Her Signature Style, and for Spring, There Are Plenty of Silhouettes in Light, Airy Fabrics

SECTION II WWDMILESTONES

Eileen Fisher At 30 For three decades, Eileen Fisher has kept true to her signature style, and for spring, there are plenty of silhouettes in light, airy fabrics. Here, a linen knit tank over a silk dress, a linen scarf and a cotton scarf worn as a turban, all organic.

THE FISHER PHILOSOPHY KEEPING IT GREEN COUNTER- CULTURE

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE 2 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Three Decades of Organic Growth 1984 I Eileen Fisher starts the company with one size of clothing. 1986 I Company incorporates with four employees on East 10th Street in Manhattan.

1987 I 9th Street boutique opens. I Headquarters opens on 39th Street. I Company now employs seven people. 1991 I Portfolio expands to include 2 sizes of clothing [1 (s/m) and 2 (m/l)]. I 25 employees now working in wholesale. I New York showroom opens. I First full-price retail store opens at 521 Madison Avenue. 1992 The Isabella Rossellini campaign, 1998. The “Real Women” campaign, 2003. I Saks Fifth Avenue becomes the first major retailer to carry Eileen Fisher. I Headquarters moves from West 39th and Creative Center in Manhattan. street to Irvington, N.Y. 1998 I U.K. stores open at Marylebone I Profit-sharing added as a company I Atlanta showroom opens. High Street and Covent Garden. benefit. I Store opens on Pine Street in I The first Eileen Fisher store in I Columbus Avenue store opens. Seattle. Canada opens in Vancouver. I Eileen Fisher New York collection I A concept store opens at 1993 is launched. Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship. I Two stores open in New York, I Isabella Rossellini campaign runs. I Debut of the shoe collection. on Fifth Avenue and at 1039 Madison Avenue. 2012 1999 I Green Eileen store opens in 1994 I Northampton, Mass., store opens. Yonkers, N.Y. I Los Angeles showroom opens. I 326 retail and wholesale employees. I China silks receive Bluesign I Company has 1,400 wholesale I More than 1.6 million units ship. certification for chemical, water accounts. and energy usage, bringing the eco I Showroom opens at 214 West 39th 2001 collection to 27 percent certified. Street and the company now employs I Water Tower store opens in Chicago. I For Earth Day, all stores collect six people. gently worn Eileen Fisher clothing, I Four stores open: East 2002 which is sent to Green Eileen for Hampton, N.Y.; Sanibel, I Three stores open: Tysons recycling to support causes for women Fla.; Copley Place in Boston in McLean, Va.; Bethesda- Bedding with Garnet Hill, 2006. and girls. and Chestnut Hill, Mass. Montgomery, Md., and Palo I Company now counts Shoes Alto-Stanford, Calif. 2013 130 employees. launch, I Four retail stores open: King of I U.K. store opens in Wimbledon 2011. 2003 Prussia, Pa.; Bridgeport Village in Village. 1995 I More than 2.5 Tigard, Ore.; University Village in I Green Eileen store opens in Seattle. I White Plains, N.Y., units ship. Seattle; Hingham, Mass. I Full-price store opens in Nashville. store opens. I Five stores I Eileen Fisher ranks 7th on the Great I Fifth Avenue and Columbus Circle open: Walnut Place to Work list. stores are renovated as concept stores. 1996 Creek, Century I Eileen Fisher is named one of the I Distribution center opens City and South 2008 Best Small & Medium Workplaces by in Secaucus, N.J. Coast Plaza in I First Eileen Fisher TV commercial the Great Place to Work Institute. California; Troy- airs. 1997 Somerset in Michigan; Naples, Fla. I New York showroom moves to 111 2014 I Two stores open: Westport, Conn., I “Real Women” spring ad campaign Fifth Avenue. I The company marks its 30th and SoHo in Manhattan. launches. I Leather collection bows. anniversary, with more than 1,100 I Employee roll grows to 280. I Eileen Fisher makes its first employees and 67 stores. appearance on the Great Place to 2009 I The Icon collection makes its Work list, compiled by the Great Place I Seven stores open: Highland Park, debut as part of the 30th anniversary to Work Institute. Ill; Mill Valley and Palm Desert, Calif.; celebration. Chevy Chase, Md.; Denver; Santa Fe, I The Fisher Project capsule 2004 N.M.; Wayside Commons, Mass. collection launches and a Project I Company marks its 20th I Eileen Fisher Lab store opens in store opens on Robertson Boulevard anniversary, counting 587 retail and Irvington. in Los Angeles. wholesale employees, 27 retail stores, three outlets and two boutiques. 2010 SOURCE: EILEEN FISHER AND WWD ARCHIVES I Columbus Circle store opens in I Eileen Fisher New York. Leadership The company entered Canada in Institute for 2011. Here, the Calgary store. 2006 Girls is formed. I Employee Stock Ownership Plan (ESOP) launches. 2011 I Eileen Fisher Home Collection by I Eileen Garnet Hill makes its debut. Fisher receives I Eileen Fisher ranks 7th on the Architectural Great Place to Work list. Record’s “Good Design is 2007 Good Business I Eileen Fisher Creative Center Award” for The 20th opens at 111 Fifth Avenue. its corporate anniversary ad I Irvington headquarters is headquarters campaign, 2004. expanded. in Irvington THAYER WENDY BED BY GRAHAM; RANDOLPH STORE BY SERGIO KURHAJEC; SHOE PHOTO BY CONGRATULATIONS

on 30 years of timeless design

From the exclusive home of EilEEn FishEr homE

delight by design™

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WWD MILESTONES The Accidental Designer Over three decades, Eileen Fisher has built a standout brand while managing to stick to her values. By Lisa Lockwood

ileen Fisher doesn’t care about “I saw kimonos, the wide-crop pants, “It was a good thing I only sold to eight “It was me. It was what I wanted, fashion per se, getting critical the simplicity of the whole aesthetic. stores. I made [the collection] in a tiny what I saw next, what I was missing and acclaim from the industry or Everything was very natural,” she said. factory in Queens, and I cut the first gar- what proportions. It was just the sim- succumbing to the frenetic, Fisher had already been drawn to mini- ments on my floor in my loft in TriBeCa,” plest things,” she said. E malism and simplicity, and that became she said. “What was so interesting was Sometimes she’d make them skinnier sometimes brutal pace of the apparel industry. Instead, over the past the basis of her first designs. The box top that it was exactly the right amount. If I and sometimes wider. “Sigi helped me a 30 years, she has built a company that’s was the first piece she ever designed. As had done any more, I would have been little bit. She was making the patterns quite the opposite — a serene palette, an interior designer, she had an interest overwhelmed and not able to get it out.” and they were so simple. The sewer basic silhouettes, natural fabrics and re- in fabric and the soft side of interior de- She named the collection after herself. helped me,” she said. sponsible sourcing, and she starts each sign. It took her about five years before “I wanted to call it something else, but Fisher said she doesn’t sketch at all. meeting with meditation. she created her first garments. couldn’t come up with a name. From the “It’s really not my thing,” she said, pre- Fisher likes to say she stumbled into Working for a Japanese school, she time I committed to the booth, I only had ferring to tell people what she was look- the business, with neither a fashion nor was asked to create uniforms. She never a very short time — like three weeks — to ing for through words. business degree. Starting her company actually finished the project, but it put the first line together,” she said. Since Soon after, she got her first depart- with $350 in her bank account, she today made her think a bit more about cloth- she had previously done graphics, she was ment-store accounts. She sold a little oversees a firm that generated $430 mil- ing. From that experience came a holis- able to whip up a logo using her name. to Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s and Lord lion in volume last year, and is arguably tic design concept. For her second Boutique Show, & Taylor. She also opened a small bou- one of the best-performing and socially After separating from her Japanese Fisher started using French terry, and it tique on Ninth Street, between First and responsible apparel companies in the U.S. partner, she started doing her own small was a big hit. Second Avenues, and then another store “I call it organic growth,” said Fisher, projects and as she put it, “stumbled “Buyers stood in line to write orders. on Madison Avenue and 53rd Street. in an interview at her Irvington, N.Y., around” in New York. I booked $40,000,” she said. “In those “The Ninth Street store is still there. home. “People are always asking me “This idea started forming and I days, it was a lot.” It started selling samples and damages. how big I think [the company] will be. I could see the pictures in my mind,” she She said she listened to the buyers I hate to waste anything. It’s 450 square don’t know. It was never about how big it said. She was living in TriBeCa at the and turned it into a fashion business, feet. It’s like a closet,” said Fisher. would be or having a real strategy.” time and friends suggested she present offering current shapes, getting the “People still love that store.” Obviously, her top executives have at the Boutique Show in 1984. proportions, colors and fabrics right. The person who runs the store buys a game plan, but as far as she’s con- “I didn’t have any fantasies of doing a She added the kimono jacket, a straight from the main line, but also sells samples cerned, it’s more about creating a cul- runway show, or being a designer. I was skirt, a jumpsuit, a pair of leather pants there. Fisher opened the Madison Avenue ture and a work environment where interested in and wanted to make these and a simple dress. Because she sold unit, which also is still operating, about people feel appreciated and passionate simple clothes — a box top, a little crop as much as she did, she needed to find five or six years into launching the busi- about what they’re doing. pant, a simple pullover vest and a shell,” someone to cut them, and couldn’t do ness. She said the Ninth Street store was As the company has grown, so has she said. The original group came in four the cutting on her floor anymore. easy because the rent was inexpensive its emphasis on social responsibility. It colors — rose, tan, ivory and teal. As for the difficulty of living off a and renovating the store cost nothing. is committed to sustainability, human Teal? company generating $40,000 in sales, “I really opened it on a shoestring and started selling clothes the day I opened. The Madison Avenue store was more expensive to open — that was my ex-husband’s idea. He saw the power of the idea and thought it could work on Madison Avenue. I wasn’t so sure. But when we ran the numbers, we thought we only had to [generate sales of] a few thousand dollars a day, and we were almost doing that on Ninth Street, so we figured we could do The Accidental that on Madison,” she said. The store opened and they were successful from the first day, said Fisher. Once Bloomingdale’s saw how busy her Designer Madison Avenue store was, it bought the line as well. “[Bloomingdale’s] saw women standing at the cash register with stacks of clothes,” said Fisher. “They thought we NE

o must be up to something, even if they didn’t understand it. Bloomingdale’s The Eileen thought it should have its own little Fisher store shop. We were in contemporary at that MAS IANNACC in the Time time, on the second floor.” tho Warner Center After that, other department stores in New York. became interested. The clothing con-

Photo by Photo by tinued to be made in Queens by the same woman. “She grew her business rights and global initiatives that em- “It’s so weird,” said Fisher. “I wore she replied, “How did I live off nega- around my business for quite a number power women and girls — key issues teal in those days.” tive $20,000? I needed to buy the fabric of years,” said Fisher. that Fisher takes very seriously. Today, Fisher dresses exclusively in and get the sewing done. I was living in The company eventually added an- When Fisher graduated from the black, gray and white. “And the funniest TriBeCa in a loft, and clothes were ev- other factory in Chinatown and one in University of Illinois in 1972, having thing is, I didn’t do black for many years. erywhere. I looked at my checkbook the the Garment Center. studied home economics and interior de- And now, we probably sell more black day I started the business and I went, In the late Eighties, color was key sign, clothing wasn’t even on her radar. than any other color,” she said. She re- ‘I’m crazy. I only have $350 in my bank to the collection. “The stores wanted “I think I would have been interest- called that in the early days of the compa- account. What am I thinking?’” color, for sure, I remember when I wanted in clothes, except that clothes were ny, buyers didn’t want to buy black. They Fisher worked out of her home for a ed more neutrals. When I tried to sell not fashionable at the time. It was in would say, “No, we have black in private while and would ship the clothing from gray, they said, ‘Gray doesn’t look good the Sixties and people were wearing label, or we have black basics so we don’t a store basement she rented. A year on anyone.’ They liked the teals, but not jeans,” said the Chicago-born designer, want that from you. We like your colors.” later, she moved the office out of her loft the greens,” she recalled. who grew up in Des Plaines, Ill. At that first Boutique Show, Fisher and into a studio space on 10th Street, As the business grew, Fisher expanded She recalled that one of her art displayed her offerings on an eight-foot between Avenues C and D. It was the to 450 doors across nine department-store teachers suggested she go into fashion wall in a tiny booth way in the back of loft of her first employee, Sigi Ahl, who chains and more than 300 specialty stores because the teacher had admired a long the exhibition hall. She said buyers still works for the company. “She had a in the U.S., Canada and U.K., as well as coat that Fisher wore. After graduation, weren’t so excited about that first group baby and she needed to stay home. I was 67 freestanding stores internationally, Fisher moved to New York, where she of colors or the fabric she was using. terrified to lose her so I moved the com- including company stores and units in worked for a Japanese graphic designer. They seemed to understand the con- pany to her,” said Fisher. Canada and the U.K. The company today They became partners, both profession- cept, but the grouping was in linen and The staff consisted of just Fisher, Ahl does the lion’s share of its volume at ally and personally, and they traveled cotton, and she described them as “ar- and some part-time helpers. wholesale — 80 percent — and 20 per- frequently to Japan, often spending chitectural and a little clunky and awk- As is the intention of many designers cent through its own freestanding stores. lengthy periods there. And she became ward.” She said she was fortunate to get starting out, Fisher wanted to design for Its Web site is its largest retail enterprise inspired by that nation’s style. orders from eight stores. a woman like herself. {Continued on page 6}

WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 5 WWD.COM

The Accidental Designer ’’

People are always asking me how big I think [the company] will be. I don’t know. It was never about how big it would be or having a real strategy. — EILEEN FISHER ’’phoTo bY KYlE EriCKsEN 6 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Fisher meditating at home. chain relationships, and it has had long- standing relationships with its China factories. The fi rm is working toward its Sustainability 2020 vision, including the use of all-recycled polyester or nylon, all-organic cotton and linen, all-sustainable wool and Bluesign-certifi ed dyes for fi ve of its top-10 volume fabrics. The company made the move overseas more than 20 years ago when it started producing silks. That category was followed by making fi ne knits, cash- meres and merino wools overseas. But lately, it has been moving more production back to the U.S. Fisher manu- factures its jeans and other cottons in California. At present, 20 percent of Fisher’s production is domestic. The company has been researching opening its own factory in the Bronx or Queens. What separates Fisher from many other fashion companies is that the employees have an ownership stake in the business. Eileen Fisher herself owns 60 percent of the company, while the employees own the rest. “It was gifted to the employees,” said Fisher. “They didn’t have to buy in. We keep people for a long time and

we also have profi t sharing,” she said. Over the years, Fisher has been ap- proached by people who have wanted to buy the company. “We’ve been very The Accidental Designer clear that we’re not interested. We looked into going public and didn’t like

the idea. I didn’t want to be controlled by outside forces. I like to be in a place {Continued from page 5} Mary Turner, executive vice presi- For years, Fisher said she worked where the people who do the work are and is experiencing the fastest growth, dent of merchandising at Hudson’s Bay on a woman’s “outer self,” with cloth- owners. It’s a different sense of belong- she said. Interestingly, the company Co. DSG, said that the line performs ing. But more signifi cant, she says, she ing and participation,” she said. hasn’t penetrated the European market very well at Hudson’s Bay and Lord & wants to “help from the inside out.” Despite the lack of a formal busi- yet beyond the U.K., nor has it made in- Taylor. She explained’’ that six years ago From the start, she said, women ness background, Fisher appears to roads in Asia. they decided to reinvigorate the better have told her that they feel a little bet- have picked up best practices of run- “We’ve been growing our business business at Hudson’s Bay, and the fi rst ter about themselves when they’re com- ning a company. “It’s kind of common here. It’s quite a leap to go that far. brand they called was Eileen Fisher, fortable in their clothes and they like sense for me,” she said. “Ever since I We’re still learning — it’s complex with which had been absent from the store what they’re wearing. “I never think the was 12, I pretty much supported myself. the different languages,” said Fisher. for six years. “As the staff was unpack- clothes should take over the person. The Anything I wanted, I had to buy. I put She said it’s been a struggle getting to ing the boxes on the fl oor, all of the clothes should support the person and myself through college.” understand the business in London and Eileen Fisher customers came out of help her fi nd her own style. They’re so She said her father was saving his sending people that far “is expensive.” nowhere. It demonstrates the incredible simple that you make them your own.” money for his only son, who ended up Retailers have consistently ex- resonance and loyalty Eileen Fisher has One of the big challenges these days not going to college. Then he put his perienced strong sell-throughs with with her customer,” she said. is getting a new generation of consum- younger daughters through college. Fisher’s collection. “Her clothes really let the woman’s ers interested in the clothing. Fisher Fisher is the second-oldest of seven “Over the years, it’s been the most personality and style come through. It said she has been trying to develop a children, with an older sister, a young- consistent performer at Bloomingdale’s. offers a fairly democratic fi t without younger customer, while continuing to er brother and four younger sisters. It’s an amazing brand,” said Frank compromising the look of the garment,” cater to her loyal clientele, a strategy “I learned the value of money. I’m very Doroff, vice chairman of Bloomingdale’s, she added. that appears to be working. There is practical about money and understand which houses Fisher in its New View de- it on some simple level,” she said. She partment. “It’s generally a casual brand stressed that when she started the com- that fi ts a lot of people. There’s great pany, it was a tiny operation. “Day by day, knitwear. They’ve been trying to go to a Over the years, it’s been the most I built it from the ground up. I got good different fashion level each season.” people to help, people who were knowl- He said the customer, who is very consistent performer at Bloomingdale’s. edgeable about different areas,” she said. loyal, is attracted to the fit, fabrics The company’s current executive and the look. “The sell-throughs at full structure comprises two co-chief oper- price are one of the best in the store,” They’ve been trying to go to a different ating offi cers running the business, a he added. Fisher also has a more con- chief fi nancial offi cer and a vice presi- temporary brand called The Fisher fashion level each season. dent of wholesale. Project, which is small, he noted. While each of the company initiatives Colleen Sherin, senior fashion di- — FRANK DOROFF, BLOOMINGDALE’S is important to Fisher, perhaps the most rector at Saks Fifth Avenue, said that meaningful is the recycling program. Eileen Fisher has been “a wonderful “The recycling thing is huge,” said brand at Saks for many years. Five years ago, Fisher began to no denying that Fisher has been cat- Fisher. There are two Green Eileen “It appeals to women of all ages and change her role at the company. “I’ve egorized as a Boomer brand, but she stores, in Yonkers, N.Y., and Seattle. all shapes and sizes. It’s a very demo- been trying to pull away, almost moving believes there’s a lot more to it. “We’re Customers can return their gently worn cratic collection. It suits so many dif- toward retirement,” she said. more than that. We transcend age. It’s clothes at any Eileen Fisher retail store ferent types of women,” she said, add- She became more involved in the who I am, I can’t completely disasso- and receive $5 for each returned gar- ing that as women lead more casual Eileen Fisher Community Foundation, ciate from them. We do have a lot of ment. The company then sends those lifestyles, a brand like Fisher becomes the recycling program, girls’ leadership younger designers and merchandisers garments to one of its recycling cen- all the more relevant. and the Happiness Project. Now, she who are dressing themselves, as well as ters in Irvington, N.Y., and Seattle to “We’re seeing this whole movement wants to start a learning center focused hip, older designers,” she said. be mended and cleaned. They then sell toward ath-leisure,” said Sherin. Fisher’s on leadership. These days, Fisher still fi nds herself those garments for a lesser price in their line “is not trendy, but it will nod to the But as she began to pull away from immersed in all areas of the business. Green Eileen stores and the money goes trends in a way that’s easily understood.” her business, she had a change of heart. She’ll attend leadership meetings and to support women’s and girls’ charities. Another positive is the wardrobe- “Though I can have a lot of impact drop in on advertising meetings. But She explained that when she building aspect of the collection, from through the foundation, I can actually she doesn’t get ’’too deeply involved in launched Green Eileen, she was afraid season to season. “Customers can mix have more impact through the compa- the product. “They haven’t run [prod- she would see all her mistakes from and match pieces from previous sea- ny,” she said. uct] by me for 10 to 12 years,” she said. the past. “Actually, what’s been really sons,” she said, noting the customer She explained that she’s been think- “I’m championing sustainability. We’re fascinating to me is to see how relevant seeks out the natural fabrics. “It’s im- ing holistically about how the company making a huge effort to try to be a lead- they still are,” she said. Half of the re- portant because it affects the way the can be a force for change in the world, er in the fashion world.” turned garments can be resold, but half garment feels, washes and travels. and that’s what’s intriguing to her Fisher has only been to China once, are in bad shape, with stains or pulls That’s important to the customer. The these days: “Sustainability, women and but has employees who visit the facto- and can’t be sold. They are now start- color palette is fairly neutral.” girls, the fact that we have over 1,000 ries several times a year. The company ing an upcycling program, where they She said it was a strong business employees, and getting everyone in the has a sustainability department with a make quilts and rugs with the fabric at Saks and is carried in Modern company lit up about what their pur- human rights manager who is responsi- and they unravel the sweaters. Collections at the fl agship. pose and passion is.” ble for overseeing the company’s supply- {Continued on page 8}

8 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD MILESTONES ’’

style as more of a gatherer of informa- I’m more enlivened by it than I’ve been tion. “I’m a listener. That’s why I like in a long time. It got me to see what I The Accidental Designer the circles,” she said. “I like to hear really wanted to do, and how I could {Continued from page 6} and watches. The company licenses everyone. I might have an idea, but try make a difference.” Fisher also gives each of the Chainson for footwear, produces bed- to always check it out. Does it resonate Fisher has two children, 25 and 21, employees $1,000 for an education ben- ding through Garnet Hill and makes with other people? I’m not aggressive or but isn’t grooming them to take over efi t, and $1,000 for a wellness benefi t. leather goods in-house with various pushy, maybe not very decisive. But I’m the business. “There could be a role The education benefi t, for example, vendors. Fisher has no fragrance. “I’m feminine in the way of gathering infor- for either of them in the business. I’m can be used for whatever they want, not a fragrance person,” she said. mation and listening to everyone and kind of letting them fi nd their own path such as cooking, yoga or music classes. Fisher’s work culture is really what modeling that for others. Great ideas a little bit,” she said. She said her son Employees often use the wellness ben- makes the company unique. For ex- come from every corner of the company.” worked in the recycle program and in efi t for on-site massages. ample, meetings are conducted in a At the company, they adhere to a Web design for a while. As the workplace in general has be- circle. Attendees take turns checking concept called “Good Growth” and try To celebrate the company’s 30th an- come more casual, Fisher’s company niversary, Fisher developed The Icons fi nds itself in a strong position. “Our collection, a small group recalling clothes have gotten more casual, which some of the original designs, tweaked is more in sync with that. Sometimes I We want to do it right. It’s not so for today. “It’s gotten me reenergized. think we’re missing that ‘go-to-work’ It wasn’t my idea, but I just think it’s so category,” said Fisher. She said it often much about doing it fast and doing brilliant. It’s making me see the rele- depends on what kind of job a person vance of the design concept. And really holds. For example, Hillary Rodham it big. Small is the new big. wanting to make sure that it’s held and Clinton wears Fisher’s clothes — but on the next generation really understands the weekend. In the early years, Fisher — EILEEN FISHER the essence of what it is,” she said. found that women in professions like The Icons consist of the coat (fresh- therapists, professors and artists were in and talking about something per- not to get stressed out. “We really do ened up, shorter, lighter-weight wool), gravitating toward the collection. One sonal or something going on in their believe that less is more sometimes. the box top (simple, easy top, now in misconception was that the clothes area. There can be three, four, fi ve or We want to do it right. It’s not so much cashmere), two long cardigans, a little were geared exclusively to full-fi gured 40 people in a meeting; 80 percent of about doing it fast and doing it big. black dress and a shell. Every store that women, which Fisher said isn’t the case. employees are women. Small is the new big,” she said. carries the line took The Icons, which “I think we’ve worked hard on that. Meetings start with a moment of si- The company has been growing at says “30th anniversary” on the label — We have sizes XXS and XS and it took lence and a chime, to allow people to take an annual rate of 10 to 13 percent over and stores are reordering it. It comes in us a long time to add that to our line. a breath, collect their thoughts and be the past fi ve years. While the company mostly black, red, gray and gold/green. Our clothes are easy and tend to be on present. Fisher, who said she meditates, continues to be on a growth trajectory, After doing this for 30 years, Fisher the looser side. We have XXS to 1X, 2X noted she likes starting meetings this way. one of the biggest challenges right now isn’t looking for any accolades from the and 3X to serve every woman,” she said. “I’m not sure we’ve totally combat- is future leadership. fashion industry. “I don’t care about that. Interestingly, Fisher has kept the ted stress in our organization. It helps “A lot of us are coming to a certain It’s not what I do or why I do it. I’ve always business focused on apparel and foot- people calm down a little bit and it gets age,” said Fisher. “How are we groom- been about real clothes that really work wear and hasn’t expanded like many them to focus. It makes for more thought- ing the next generation of leadership? for real life. It’s not about an art project of its competitors into a host of cat- ful, conscious decisions,” she said. That’s the big challenge.’’ I’m 64. I was for me. It’s real design, vision, solving egories, such as eyewear, outerwear Fisher described her management pulling out, and now I’m back in there. problems — that’s what fascinates me.”

Candice reffe and rebecca perrin “The brand needs to evolve. Eileen’s vision,” Reffe said. Meetings are held in always been the chief proponent of that. circles to reinforce the point. “It’s kind As she says, ‘Everyone’s eye shifts.’ ” of like [sitting around] the campfi re. It’s While fairly new to their positions, very, very collaborative because Eileen Perrin and Reffe are Fisher veterans: believes, as do Candice and I, that you Perrin has been with the company for can fi nd insight everywhere. It’s very par- 22 years and Reffe for 30 years. Perrin, ticipatory, I’d say, working here.” a former dancer, started with the com- Speaking of the company’s collabora- pany in retail, managing The Eileen tive environment, Perrin and Reffe cited Fisher Boutique, the brand’s fi rst store, that morning’s design-team meeting, a on Ninth Street in Manhattan. She was follow-up to their brainstorming ses- brought onto the design team in 2002 sion for the resort collection. “We don’t and later recruited onto what the com- come in and say, ‘This is the design di- pany calls its “core concept team.” rection,’ and then it fl ows down to them “The team was developed to really from there. It’s very much two-way. It’s hold on to the essence of the brand vi- hearing all voices,” Perrin said. “We see sion,” Perrin explained. At its incep- what they present, and if we don’t like it, tion, in 2006, the team consisted of we don’t just say, ‘No, that’s off-brand.’ three members: Perrin, Reffe and Kira We talk about it. We say, ‘We’re uncom- Denison-Cole, who now leads the team. fortable, and here’s why.’ We’re thinking Reffe also made her way onto the aloud, and we articulate why either a sil- team via retail. She was a poet — “I houette or a direction in a print doesn’t

Photo by StEVE EIChNER Photo by was and still am a poet,” she corrected feel right to us. It’s a very iterative pro- — while her husband owned a small cess, a healthy back-and-forth.” offi cers, installed just over a year ago. boutique in Provincetown, Mass. He Discussions often center around the “To a large degree, Eileen created began carrying Eileen Fisher the fi rst brand’s evolution: How can the compa- our roles because we can carry her year she sold, in 1984. “So I would ny advance the brand while retaining Getting voice,” Perrin said. “Her vision is re- write poetry and sell Eileen Fisher its DNA? ally in our DNA.” clothes,” Reffe recalled. Eileen Fisher “It’s a delicate dance,” Reffe noted. Perrin and Reffe — wearing the eventually took over the store and de- “Sometimes they push us, sometimes same roomy black cardigan, inciden- veloped it into a larger retail concept. we push them,” Perrin added. “We need Creative tally — are seated on a plush sofa at Reffe was brought onto the corporate to survive into the future, and that UNDER THE “WHO WE ARE” tab on the the Eileen Fisher corporate offi ces in team, fi rst in a writing capacity, then means surviving beyond Eileen. That’s Eileen Fisher Web site is a four-minute, the Flatiron District. It looks like the moving to core concept. the difference between us and a lot of 21-second video. A score of violin and display fl oor of a West Elm: hardwood The women have maintained the fashion brands: It’s more about the per- staccato percussion plays while brand- floors and tracts of exposed brick; unique corporate culture birthed by son and their singular vision [at other concentrated shots fade in and out: the Edison bulbs strung up with ropey Fisher: nurturing with a touch of hip- brands, but] this is more about the vi- Empire State Building, a rack of ribbed yarn and draped in raw linen swatch- pity-dippity. The offi ce has a distinctly sion she gave birth to. It isn’t about her long-sleeve knits, fanned-out look books. es; mannequins standing on recycled spa-like quality — you kind of expect — it’s about her design essence.” Then some text fl ashes: “Our design wooden crates (or deliberately tattered the place to smell faintly of eucalyptus Perrin and Reffe communicate with strives to balance the timeless with the wooden crates meant to look recycled); — and the (predominantly female) em- Fisher on a regular basis — they esti- modern, function with beauty.” The im- glass hurricanes holding unlit candles; ployees are offered yoga, Pilates and mate a couple of times a week — but ages feature dark-haired or graying fe- faux succulents and dried fl owers sit in massages on-site. There are also month- her role is essentially titular: She male Eileen Fisher employees thumbing glass terrariums. ly workshops in the offi ces, with recent doesn’t get involved in daily operations through hemp swatches, looking at mood “I think the reason she chose us was topics ranging from “The Benefi ts of but, rather, takes advantage of the di- boards or sketching, with either circle that we see and feel this brand so much Hypnosis” to “Mindfulness at Work.” rect line she has to the creatives. scarves or measuring tape strung around the way she does and have for a long The culture is also distinctly demo- “She’s a customer, so when she goes their necks. More text: “Ours is an or- time,” Perrin continued. “But there is cratic. Reffe and Perrin operate in and shops, we hear a lot of feedback,” ganic system, always evolving, changing, this constant conversation about where an unassuming work space. They’re Perrin said. “What she found, what building up what’s come before.” do we push forward, where do we not, scrunched into a pair of tiny corner cu- she couldn’t fi nd, what’s missing, what Two women have been tasked with what is our essence and how does it bicles, in a room lined with them. she loved.” overseeing that build: Candice Reffe and evolve so that it looks different from “It’s really a culture about the accu- Reffe smiled, adding, “And we defi - Rebecca Perrin, the brand’s co-creative how it might have 30 years ago. mulation of voices in service of the design nitely listen.” — TAYLOR HARRIS BORN IN

1984Macy’s celebrates 3O yeaRs Of eIleeN fIsheR

70077_M4100096_WWD_11-18.indd 1 Women’s Wear Daily (11/18/2014)- single 11/3/14 11:13 AM Job #: 70077_m4100096_101 month/Week: nov Wk3 merch: salute/eileen Fisher TRIM: (11” x 14.75”) BLEED: 0” SAFETY/LIvE AREA: 10” x 13.875” Art Dir: Michéle (x: 5649) Writer: Simon(x: 2457) Coord: Tannya (x:5728) Production: Marilyn (x: 5527) 10 WWD Tuesday, November 18, 2014 SECTION II

wwd Milestones

Desert Daze EilEEn FishEr’s spring collEction is FillEd with light and airy piEcEs that layEr togEthEr, capturing a nomadic yEt EthErEal vibE.

Cotton and silk vest with a silk high-low top over a silk dress and slip. Leather boots. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE WWD Tuesday, November 18, 2014 11 WWD.COM

A cashmere sweater and cotton stretch jeans.

Desert Daze A silk top and silk apron EilEEn FishEr’s spring collEction is FillEd with light and airy piEcEs pants, organic cotton scarf worn as a turban that layEr togEthEr, capturing a nomadic yEt EthErEal vibE. and leather sandals.

A silk jumpsuit with layered scarves in modal, silk and linen A silk dress with back detail Cotton and silk vest with a silk high-low top and a leather bag. and an organic cotton knit scarf. over a silk dress and slip. Leather boots. MODEL: ANNE P/MAJOR; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MARCEL DAGENAIS FOR LVA ARTISTS USING ORIBE HAIR CARE ARTISTS DAGENAIS FOR LVA MARCEL MODEL: ANNE P/MAJOR; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE 12 WWD Tuesday, November 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

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Silk jumpsuit.

Fisher Project’s silk button-up dress over a silk slip. Eileen Fisher’s silk and linen scarf and organic cotton scarf Organic cotton top, linen and worn as a turban. cotton pants and leather sandals. ESE_WWD.indd 1 04/11/14 15.42 14 WWD Tuesday, November 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

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A cashmere high-low top, silk tunic and cotton stretch jeans with an organic cotton scarf worn as a turban and leather sandals.

16 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

Management is a collaborative effort. Team Players By Arnold J. Karr

wholesale accounts, while the ceos and others at the com- other 40 percent manifests pany for some time: “We learn through its own retail opera- more from our diffi cult times tions, just over a quarter of than from the easy moments.” which are attributable to e- Among the reasons for the commerce and the rest com- company’s strong showing in ing through its network of 67 the immediate aftermath of stores in the U.S., Canada and the worst financial contrac- in and around London. tion since the Thirties was a It’s the steadiness, rather decision to bring in Ideo, a de- than the speed, of the ascent sign and branding company, to that they fi nd most gratifying. help it emerge from the fi nan- “There are a few years cial crisis in better shape than when there’s been an ex- it entered it. ception, but if you look at Cukier noted that Fisher, this company over a 30-year who never had formal busi- span, it’s been a steady climb ness training, “has an in- — year in, year out, of nice stinct about when to take a single- to low-double-digit risk and sometimes it’s at the

growth,” said Gundell. “It re- times when other companies ally reﬂ ects the way Eileen are pulling back. She hired and now our entire design Ideo and we began to look team look at the essential at the business in ways we issue each season: how are just hadn’t before. We evalu- we going to build our relation- ated our relationships with

ship with the customer? How our customers, the visual el- do the clothes work and fi t? ements of the business. We It’s always been about taking asked ourselves how we can Jim Gundell and Jonci Cukier the customer to the next level continue to broaden our cus- and making sure that we give tomer reach.” PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY her new reasons not just to While Eileen Fisher re- ’’ embrace the clothes but the mains focused on the baby IF THERE’S A CONFLICT in from others in the New York just hours before the start of values behind them. It’s al- boomer, it hasn’t backed away the power-sharing arrange- fashion market and setting a vacation in which she was ways been evolution, never from other opportunities, ment between Jonci Cukier higher priorities than simply intent on not being tethered to revolution.” providing they’re consistent and Jim Gundell in their roles beating last year’s numbers. her smartphone. Eileen Fisher is coming off with the company’s mission. as co-chief operating officers Cukier initially came Cukier and Gundell arrived two very strong years in 2012 To celebrate its 30th anniver- of Eileen Fisher, they’ve cer- on board as a consultant to at the company with depart- and 2013, when it had about sary, the company developed tainly done an admirable job work with the design studio ment store backgrounds, and 25 percent growth, “and some the Icons Collection, updated of keeping it hidden. but stayed on as facilitating both took detours in the years of it refl ected that we’d deep- items based on pieces de- “Luckily, we’re collabora- leader of the area. While she before they became a part of ened our relationship with our signed by Fisher when the tive by nature, and, like ev- generally focuses on design, Eileen Fisher. wholesale accounts and also company was in its infancy. eryone at this company, we’re merchandising, product de- Gundell, a native New expanded our stores and e- “We found that those piec- accustomed to working in a velopment, manufacturing Yorker raised in Rye, commerce, too,” Gundell said. es were appealing to women collaborative manner,” said and production, Gundell’s of- N.Y., spent 19 years at That might help explain of all ages, more than virtually Cukier. “We very quickly re- Bloomingdale’s in roles that one of the feats of which the anything else in the collec- alized that we couldn’t be in- included general manager of management team is proud- tion,” said Cukier. “It wasn’t volved in everything.” the 59th Street fl agship and est: its flat performance in a matter of, ‘We need to de- As often happens in their We begin by general merchandise man- 2009 in the aftermath of the fi - sign for a younger customer.’ tandem management arrange- ager of women’s accessories, nancial meltdown of late 2008. There’s something about our ment, Gundell finished the putting our intimate apparel and foot- “We knew very well that design message and the mes- thought: “A lot of this comes wear; he also worked at Ralph our major competitors and a sage of the company that reso- from Eileen, who has never customers’ needs Lauren Corp. as divisional lot of the people we hang with nates across all ages. It’s not believed in ‘the power of one president of its factory out- in stores had double-digit de- universal — it’s still a niche — voice.’ She believes in the lets. But he stepped outside creases,” Gundell stated. “We but it’s broader than just the power of many voices and that in the center the corporate retail world to landed pretty much where we women who were brought up the best things happen when become president of retail for started and felt very grateful with Eileen.” you tap into the wisdom of a and making our the Museum of Modern Art. about it.” Gundell noted that there’s group of people who are in A native of Detroit, Cukier Major accounts — a tendency to underplay the the know and really have an decisions from moved to Minneapolis after then and now — include fashion savvy and even the understanding of what the op- college and spent 10 years Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, purchasing power of the fe- portunities and issues are and with Dayton’s department Bloomingdale’s Macy’s, male baby boomer. fi nd a path to work together.” there. store, including time as divi- Dillard’s and Holt Renfrew. “Don’t underestimate her,” And there is never a short- sional merchandise manager In a way, the post-recession he said. “She’s got disposable age of voices at Eileen Fisher. —JONCI CUKIER of better sportswear. She and results verified something income and she also wants to The fi rm has operated under her husband, David, operated Fisher had told her two co- {Continued on page 18} an employee stock ownership a small chain of petite spe- plan since 2005. Fisher owns fi cial duties incorporate brick- cialty and contemporary shoe 40 percent of the company and-mortar and e-commerce stores prior to relocating to that bears her name, and the retailing, visual merchandis- Cincinnati in 1994, when she employees, including the two ing, technology and global became president of the Easy co-chief operating officers, enterprise. Both are part of Spirit footwear stores owned own the majority, with vesting the company’s eight-person by U.S. Shoe Corp. After the taking place after fi ve years. facilitating leadership team stores were purchased by Nine Cukier and Gundell joined that’s involved in all major de- West, she landed in New York. the company within weeks of cisions — all part of a culture Cukier and Gundell both each other in 2004 and have that seems deliberately op- take pride in Eileen Fisher’s shared the chief operating posed to the idea of fortifi ed growth trajectory over the 10 offi cer role for the past fi ve silos with thick walls separat- years they’ve been with the years, bringing an unusual ing departments. fi rm: Sales this year are on division of labor to a compa- “We know it’s’’ very impor- pace to reach $430 million ny that, taking cues from its tant for Jim and me to stay from $178 million a decade founder, has no reservations connected, and we miss it earlier. About 60 percent of about doing things differently when we’re not,” Cukier said the business is conducted with System core pieces in the South Coast Plaza store in Costa Mesa, Calif. HER COMMITMENT TO WOMEN HAS BLAZED A TRAIL THAT WE HAVE ALL BEEN HONORED TO FOLLOW. We salute Eileen Fisher and her 30 years of celebrating women.

608F14_10x13.875_NMS WWD EILEEN FISHER SALUTE AD.indd 1 10/27/14 4:32 PM 18 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

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the not-for-profi t conservation trying to understand how to group out of Canada, to elimi- properly scale something out- nate the use of fabrics contain- side the U.S., as we’re doing Team Players ing fibers from endangered with our stores in London, or {Continued from page 16} lifestyle centers and suburban forests. It received Bluesign outside our core products,” feel relevant in ways that her street-front locations. Technologies certifi cation for Gundell said. “That doesn’t mother probably didn’t. She’s While the fi rm designates the silk it sources in China, happen overnight.” with us and shes going to be its stores as either “retail,” meaning they are dyed and fi n- Cukier added, “We don’t do with us for a long time, and it or full-price with an aver- ished using fewer chemicals, fast well.” seems her daughter will, too. age size of about 2,500 square less water and less energy. Gundell replied, “That’s We’re seeing the daughters of feet, or “company,” a syn- Cukier and Gundell — like true, but we do slow really, re- our ‘classic customers’ coming onym for “factory” or “outlet,” Fisher herself — don’t spend ally well. When we take our into our stores and going online at between 4,000 and 5,000 time boasting about their com- time, when we’re thoughtful, and loving what we’re doing.” square feet, there’s mixing mitment to corporate social re- we make the best decisions.” Another example of Eileen and matching throughout the sponsibility, viewing it as being Everything they do at Fisher’s ability to reach be- chain. The company opened totally consistent with a corpo- Eileen Fisher needs to in- yond its core customer — a 3,000-square-foot company rate culture in which pleasing crease the brand’s outreach while at the same time ad- store in Manchester, Vt., this customers has laid the ground- and generate income, “but dressing its core values as a year that has liquidated mer- work for higher sales. it also has to abide by this socially responsible apparel chandise, some “system piec- Both Gundell and Cukier incredible relationship of marketer — is the Green es” featuring core shapes and became somewhat serious in trust that’s existed between Eileen initiative begun five fabrics at regular prices and tone when pressed about why Eileen and her customer for years ago. other items at lesser discounts. Eileen Fisher hadn’t moved 30 years,” Cukier said. Customers were invited The store’s sales are running A look from fall. more aggressively to take ad- “Are we leaving money on to bring in pieces from their 60 percent ahead of plan. vantage of what is obviously a the table? We probably are,” PHOTO BY BONE & BLACK PHOTO BY wardrobe — delicately re- “The high-low approach loyal customer base anxious Gundell said, his tone becom- ferred to by Gundell and refl ects the way women are ships stretching back 20 years or to see more from the designer. ing noticeably more passionate. Cukier as “gently worn” — shopping today,” Gundell more with some of those plants. Why, for instance, are “But you have to remember: and receive a $5 gift card in said, “So why not set it up We really do look at them as our there only two licensees — Eileen didn’t start this business exchange. The company then that way within the Eileen overseas partners.” Chainson for footwear and to sell anything to anyone. She had the returned clothes dry- Fisher brand?” But the ties to the home Garnet Hill for bedding — started it to solve a problem — cleaned and sold for prices in The company’s interna- market are clear. “Today, 97 when the brand could easily fi rst her own problem of getting the mid- and high-$40 range, tional expansion at retail percent of garments sold in the support, among other classifi - dressed, and for the 30 years with the profi ts going to ben- has been relegated to the U.S. are made elsewhere,” pro- cations, multiple accessories since, the customer’s. efi t initiatives to help needy English-speaking world, with claims the company’s Web site. categories? Why hasn’t inter- “For 30 years, we’ve been women and girls. two stores in Canada (Calgary “We produce 20 percent of ours national expansion carried working on solving [the cus- “Suddenly, we had a vin- and Vancouver) and three, in New York and Los Angeles.” the company into more mar- tomer’s] problem of how to tage collection,” Gundell ex- soon to be four, in and around Under Amy Hall, the com- kets, like those outside the dress comfortably and stylish- claimed. “Women in their 20s London. While its wholesale pany’s director of social con- English-speaking world? ly within her understanding and 30s love the look and they operations in the U.K. are sciousness, the fi rm has gone “We do and will consider of those ideas,” he concluded. also loved the price point. It handled by a distributor, it op- well beyond standard oper- other markets and classifi- “And when we solve her prob- was the perfect Eileen Fisher erates its own stores there. ating procedures to monitor cations, but our focus is on lem, she buys our clothes.” concept — a brilliant way to The Eileen Fisher story its impact on workers in the recycle and repurpose clothes, began with garments being plants that produce its mer- and at the same time reinforce sewn and sold in New York chandise, as well as the envi- the timelessness of our cloth- and there’s still a healthy do- ronments from which its raw ing and our mission and serve mestic component to its busi- materials are derived, its fi - an emerging customer.” ness, with U.S. manufacturing bers and fabrics produced and “We do not start with bot- accounting for between 20 and its finished garments made tom-line goals here,” Cukier 25 percent of production, de- and sold. said. “We begin by putting our pending on the season, and Besides strict monitoring customers’ needs in the cen- factories recently added in of its relatively compact sup- ter and making our decisions California. The remainder ply chain to guarantee worker from there.” comes primarily from six fac- safety and fair treatment, the The executives have pur- tories in China, with addition- company has been among the sued a measured growth strat- al items imported from India, fi rst apparel companies to en- egy in the confi guration of the Peru and Turkey. dorse sustainability initiatives retail business, with 18 of its 50 “We could be 50 to 80 percent such as organic cotton, certi- U.S. full-price stores in mall lo- of a plant’s production,” Cukier fi ed dyeing and recently the A Green Eileen store in Seattle. cations and the rest split among noted, “and we’ve had relation- pledge promoted by Canopy,

tends to the brand as a whole, which is modate employees’ needs and time employee-owned. “Every year, the em- constraints, the company has dedicat- ‘We’re All in This Together’ ployees buy more and more of the com- ed space within its offi ces to massage pany from Eileen,” said Schor. “Many and yoga rooms, bringing the services IT MIGHT SOUND like a bunch of lip ping,” she said. “We have a very strong firms are bought by outsiders, but straight to the workplace. service or a line from a Hallmark card, value around teams and people collab- Eileen has always thought that, when Employees also receive another but at Eileen Fisher, employees come orating with each other, with the basic the time came to start selling the com- $1,000 for educational purposes, in- first — so much so that the company belief that there is a lot of wisdom in pany, selling it to the employees really cluding continuing education, museum has an executive devoted to the con- the company, and if people can share refl ected her philosophy of ‘We’re all memberships or classes to acquire a tentment of its workforce. wisdom with one another, we’re likely in this together.’ It also means that, new skill, such as cooking, art, photog- “We really care about people having to get to a better place.” come retirement, people will be able raphy or music. integrated lives, with work and per- Collaboration is at the center of to cash in on that.” Schor describes the Eileen Fisher sonal,” said Susan Schor, chief culture Eileen Fisher’s internal infrastruc- All employees are included in year- offi ces as relaxed, or “very much like offi cer. “We care a lot about individual ture. The brand is overseen by co- end profi t sharing, too. the aesthetic of our clothes.” She con- development and well-being. We want creative offi cers Candice Reffe and “The formula for profi t-sharing is tinued, “None of our leaders have of- people to be able to develop their pas- Rebecca Perrin. Rather than relying the same, whether you are in a high- fices because of our belief that we sion and their love. We really believe on the traditional role of the chief level position or a sales person in our should connect with one another. that the company wins when people executive offi cer, the company is run store or someone in the warehouse There is very little that we need priva- are doing work that they love and can by what’s called a “facilitator leading — everyone gets the same formula,” cy for. We don’t generally sit around a grow doing that.” team,” consisting of seven employees. Schor explained. For the 2013 fi scal table for meetings — we’re much more Schor oversees areas ranging from The word “executive,” in general, is year, all employees received an ad- relaxed. We begin our meetings with health to education, as well as the frowned upon. ditional 11 weeks’ pay — a record for a chime and a couple of minutes of general offi ce environment. To that “We believe in teams within depart- the company. The average year garners silence, so people can let go of where end, she works with a number of de- ments as well as teams across depart- about six weeks’ pay. they were and transition into being partments within the company, from ments,” said Schor. “When we think “The premise behind it is, we have with one another.” human resources, leadership and about our product, we have to concep- profi ts because of our employees,” This focus on both the individual development to internal communica- tualize, merchandize, sell — we need she added. and the collective team has landed tions and social consciousness. It is to bring together people in teams that On the individual level, workers Eileen Fisher on the Great Place to this cross-department teamwork, said cut across functions in order to deliver receive several yearly stipends, in- Work Institute’s “Best Medium-Sized Schor, that sets the tone for the com- what it is we want to deliver external- cluding a $1,000 wellness benefi t to be Workplace” every year from 2003 to pany culture. ly. We’re all in this together.” used on gym memberships, massages 2013. Added Schor, “It’s a huge feather “We’re about circles and overlap- The teamwork mentality also ex- and other services. To better accom- in our cap.” — LAUREN MCCARTHY 037251A / NY NE Region 10/14/14 Women’s Wear Daily early due: 10/1/14 10” x 13.875” FC 100LPI C: Amanda D: Jun P: Cat

years

c oNgrAts! eileen fisher Cheers to 30 fabulous years of elegant design. We’re truly inspired by your socially conscious style and hope the next 30 are just as amazing.

037251A.Eileen Fisher Tribute Ad.indd 2 11/6/14 12:18 PM FINAL2 20 WWD Tuesday, November 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

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to lead visual merchandising, the Continent is close on the over 80 percent and Web sales store design and brand experi- horizon. “We believe strongly shot up 200 percent. Web, ence. Goulet has been adding that we have a customer in which was once 13 percent interesting furniture, signage northern Europe,” Gray said. of our total business, now On Message and unique displays to stores. “We want to find ways to serve equates to 29 percent.” “He’s shifting our store design her. The European woman Eileen Fisher is dipping Retail follows the same company tenets of a little bit,” Gray said. “He’s loves the quality, timelessness its toe in global wholesaling. helping to make the shopping and elegance of the brand. We “We’re looking at Germany,” sustainability, experimentation and customer experience clearer and the de- feel we’re going to get there.” LoRusso said. “It’s very inter- engagement. By Sharon Edelson sign of the clothes easier to see. On the wholesale side of the esting to us, but there are no We rolled out mannequins, and business, Eileen Fisher works conversations yet. We’re inter- EILEEN FISHER IS AN ues as our current customer. it really makes a difference.” primarily with key department ested in broadening our base eco-friendly, experimenta- She’s very invested in clothes Niche buying or tailoring stores, including Saks Fifth in London.” tion-minded, socially aware, that give a woman confidence assortments to different mar- Avenue, Nordstrom, Neiman The brand, which entered change-driven powerhouse and engage her creativity in kets and types of stores is also Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Canada in 1998, is sold at with 67 company-operated dressing. We’re learning about being implemented. Macy’s, Belk and Dillard’s. Holt Renfrew, The Bay and stores worldwide and a $430 that new customer and how to “For an urban store, there An in-the-field merchandis- Nordstrom in Calgary. “We ex- million business. connect with her. Our future would be pieces with more ing team of 30 tailors buys for ceeded [Calgary Nordstrom’s] But even after 30 years, the customer is even more con- polish and more go-to-work specific regions of the country. expectations,” said LoRusso. company is testing a variety of cerned with the environment. retail concepts. We’re speaking in a louder

A new Eileen Fisher Lab in voice in stores about our sus- An in-store shop Irvington, N.Y., offers full-price tainability work.” at Neiman Marcus merchandise, samples, Green Eileen Fisher’s store ex- in Chicago. Eileen products and shoes. pansion in the U.S. will echo “It’s Eileen’s little experi- the company’s trademark or- mental store,” said Karen ganic style. “We don’t set spe-

Gray, vice president of retail cific growth targets,” Gray said. and global development. “It’s “We’re looking for interesting a fun lab environment.” opportunities and places where Two Green Eileen stores the customer will find us. We’re operate in Yonkers, N.Y., and handpicking these locations. We could probably open anoth- Seattle, selling gently worn ’’ Eileen Fisher apparel col- er four or five stores over the lected from customers and next few years.” dry-cleaned, with profits going Fisher operates 51 full-price to organizations supported by locations in the U.S. and five Fisher, such as groups devoted units in Canada and the U.K. to environmental conscious- Last year, Eileen Fisher ness and human rights. Fisher’s hosted 120 events — at depart- own social-consciousness team ment stores and company- awards grants to programs sup- owned stores, in the U.S. and porting women and girls. internationally. The goal of the A boutique called The events, which vary widely, is Eileen Fisher Boutique at 314 to connect with local commu- East Ninth Street — the site of nities while underscoring the Fisher’s original store — is an values of the brand. under-the-radar shop featur- “We’re doing events that ing samples, one-offs and liq- resonate with local custom- uidated products, along with ers,” Gray said. “Our store in full-price styles. Chestnut Hill, Mass., did an We’re actively working on building a bridge to the A new retail concept in event with MassArt where stu- Manchester, Vt., has been out- dents displayed their sustain- next generation. Our new customer is as connected to performing its siblings. “It’s 60 able designs. Those are the percent over plan,” Gray said kinds of things we like to do of the hybrid store. “It’s tech- in our stores and will be doing our core values as our current customer. nically a company store, or more of. We’re investing in our outlet, but it also has full-price store experience quite heavily — Karen gray merchandise, shoes, luxury wardrobe basics and favorites options, versus a store such Next year, the company ex- “It’s one of the top 10 doors. — classic styles we bring back. Karen as one in Mill Valley, Calif., pects to have its first $1 million Eileen Fisher launched at The customer loves it because Gray which is looking for something account with a specialty store. Fenwick of Bond Street in she can shop the high-low really unique. Mariclare Van Bergen, vice London and exceeded sell- thing and walk out with a big “We’re refining our global president of sales, said The through expectations there, as bag of merchandise.” strategy,” Gray said. “We’re Fisher Project is being incor- well. Harvey Nichols launched Another experimental store, looking for nice steady growth porated into major store pre- the brand on Nov. 1 online and on Fifth Avenue, features rates — but good growth, tak- sentations or housed within its in the Edinburgh store.” third-party jewelry and hand- ing into account social con- own section in certain stores. Eileen Fisher, which bags as well as unique samples sciousness and our impact on “Our goal is to stimulate has opened hard shops at from the Eileen Fisher line the environment. We look at existing customers and bring Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flag- that were never produced. “It’s more than just the dollars. It’s in new customers,” she said. ship and Macy’s’’ Herald Square, been doing extremely well,” a big conversation now.” “We’re also using it to tell a wants to control the image it Gray said. “We’re looking at Gray described the compa- story online.” presents to customers. bringing elements of that store ny’s Canadian business as “ex- The edgy Fisher Project “We have a tremendous into new units we’re renovat- tremely successful and highly helped the company boost its amount of input in depart-

ing and building.” e Chinsee profitable. Canada is going to Bloomingdale’s online business ment stores,” Van Bergen said. G A store on Robertson become the focus of our re- by 60 percent. “They cater to a “We send a directive to all Boulevard in Los Angeles is tail expansion. We expect to contemporary customer,” Van stores. In some, we have more called The Fisher Project, after move into Toronto in 2015 or Bergen said. “There’s so much carte blanche than others.” a capsule collection that exper- 2016. We’re looking at Ottawa, crossover for our customer. The brand also sponsors iments with luxurious basics Geor photo by Montreal and maybe a second She can be traditional and pol- events at wholesale partners. and dramatic proportions. For with new concepts, and we’re store in Vancouver. It’s really ished, layered with artistic and “We have an opportunity to example, there’s an angle-front experimenting actively.” significant growth for us. We’ll whimsical [touches].” engage and excite the custom- cropped leather jacket ($798), Eileen Fisher is also invest- also be selling to Nordstrom The Eileen Fisher customer er,” Van Bergen said. “They a long sheered alpaca jacket ing in technology. Web shoppers in Canada.” who shops at Lord & Taylor want to know what inspires with leather sleeves ($748), a account for 29 percent of over- Fisher’s U.K. business is tends to be a little more tradi- Eileen’s designs and how to pleated leather skirt ($578) and all revenue, Gray said, adding, growing by double digits. Stores tional, Van Bergen said. The wear them. They’re excited a racer-back dress ($198). “Younger customers will shop are located at Covent Garden, brand allows retailers to cher- about sustainability.” “The collection is a bit more more heavily online. Our core Wimbledon and Marylebone. ry-pick its collections to tailor A new showroom and edgy and fitted and pushes us customer is shopping online, as “We’re opening another store in an assortment to its customers. branding center is opening in forward a little,” Gray said. well. The future generation is London in the spring on Kings “We’ve seen progressive L.A., and the Eileen Fisher “We’re actively working on very time-pressured. She wants Road,” Gray said. “It will have a growth in wholesale sales,” University will bow in March, building a bridge to the next things to be very easy.” small showroom and office area said Anthony LoRusso, direc- as a day when store owners and generation. Our new customer Within the past year, Mark for our London team.” tor of sales. “In the past five buyers attend brand-education is as connected to our core val- Goulet joined the company Entering other countries on years, wholesale has grown workshops in New York. EIF14-101_WWD_Milestone_FINAL.pdf 1 11/3/14 11:52 AM

congratulates EILEEN FISHER on the past 30 years. 22 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

sure what they will look like yet. “The brick-and-mortar stores aren’t going away. Online needs to influence Renewal and Redesign offline and give the customer easier ways to find what she’s looking for,” A major overhaul of the from tablet and three to four percent Croke said. from smartphone. She noted that although it’s com- Web site emphasizes social Croke said the site has seen double- mon for many shoppers to visit online and environmental issues. digit increases since 2013, but in the and offline, there is a bit of a differ- coming year, she hopes for a more in- ence in consumer behavior. Typically, By Rachel Strugatz tegrated, cross-channel experience for the online customer is younger by a

the consumer. few years and tends to spend more. e Chinsee EILEEN FISHER unveiled a new Web To do this, she explained that the “She’s in our top three segments,” G experience in August, coinciding with its customer will be able to access prod- Croke said, meaning that this cus- 30th anniversary, where highlighting the uct wherever she is — whether this tomer shops in-store if there is one Lauren Croke brand’s sustainability message is key. means integrating inventory across nearby, and at department stores that In addition to factoring customer stores and online or finding places to carry the brand, as well as online at ei- Geor photo by feedback and site analytics into the incorporate mobile access. She added leenfisher.com. “She ends up being the and a platform for storytelling. We don’t redesign, reflecting the brand’s sus- the company is even looking at ways most valuable customer — she shops in see the site as just an online store,” tainability was a focus, according to to leverage wholesale partnerships all three places. You would think that Croke said. Lauren Croke, director of e-commerce. online, although she admits she’s not customers farthest from those places For the time being, updating the “The real story around our [stores and department stores] front end and focusing on the look and clothes is the social and environ- would be shopping most online, feel of eileenfisher.com is the first step mental issues that inform the way but customers closest to the in the brand’s digital evolution. The we make them. It’s such a huge stores shop most online. It’s more brand worked with Createthe Group to part of our brand message,” Croke is more is more.” offer a “clean, modern and simplified said. “But it’s been buried on our Since the site relaunched, the experience” — with the most noticeable site, and a big piece of our redesign brand has reported 8 percent change being an emphasis on content. — especially around our 30th [an- growth in orders, with average A complete back-end overhaul will take niversary] — was to elevate that.” time spent on the site also increas- place next year, including the launch of The Web site, designed in-house ing. The “& Behind the Label” an entirely new technology platform. by senior graphic designer Maiko portion specifically has seen page According to Monica Rowe, pub- Fronteddu and art director Shanti views multiply by 10 times since lic relations and social media leader, Durkee, plays an integral role in the redesign, with the most visited the brand began using social media the business, according to Croke, sections being Certified Dyeing, in 2011, starting with Facebook and who said that of Eileen Fisher’s Made in USA, Repair and Care, Twitter. Now, it’s active on Pinterest, 67 freestanding stores globally, the Green Eileen and Organic Fibers. Instagram, LinkedIn and YouTube as site is the number-one retail door. The “& Behind the Label” design well — with about 70,000 followers com- Sales from eileenfisher.com rep- was led by Eric Nevin and Martin bined. Pinterest drives the most refer- resent 29 percent of the total re- Bone of Bone & Black, Eileen ral traffic, even though Facebook and tail volume. Currently, more than Fisher’s creative agency of record, Instagram have the most engaged fans. 50 percent of traffic comes from and was built and produced in The brand’s digital strategy will con- desktop, with 30 percent from tab- partnership with the digital agen- tinue to evolve, Croke added. “[Digital] let and the remainder via smart- cy Createthe Group. provides a platform that clears out the phone. As for revenue, more than “We feel that we have trans- noise a bit and allows us to continue to 70 percent of e-commerce sales The Web site’s “& Behind the Label” section tells the formed the site as a primary artery tell deeper stories, connect with more come from desktop, 25 percent story of the company’s sourcing and sustainability. for a seamless brand experience women and hopefully dress them, too.”

a chord with her, as it cap- including “Women Change tured the editor in a real way. the World Every Day,” “Every That photo not only inspired Body is Beautiful” and “Alive Truth in Advertising Fisher to work with Greenfield- in the World.” Sanders, but it also gave her These shoots showcased The company’s focus communicate how the clothes communications, Hilary Old, the idea to create a campaign the clothing’s shapes in a vari- moved and felt, Thoren said. said, explaining that the com- featuring real women. ety of ways on groups of mod- in marketing has Through the years, pany isn’t actually averse to As a result, the brand els, underscoring the brand’s been on simple styles the company has tapped the idea. tapped its own employees — Aristotelian philosophy that and real women. By photographers, includ- “Coming off working with at the time, a novel concept. the whole is greater than the ing Dick Nystrom, Patrick someone like Isabella, it’s Using images of its employ- sum of its parts. Alexandra Steigrad Demarchelier, Peter In recent years, Fisher’s Lindbergh and Gentl and message shifted again to focus OVER ITS 30 YEARS in busi- Hyers, to depict the clothes in on the thinking behind the col- ness, Eileen Fisher has stayed a simplistic way through por- lection. This translated to the true to its mandate of produc- traiture. The singular focus of introduction of the ampersand ing clean yet simple designs the clothing on a model has logo on advertising, which re- for real women. represented the importance flected the brand’s attention to That vision has also re- of female empowerment. sustainability. mained a constant theme in That idea led Fisher to “Sustainability is a huge pri- the brand’s marketing and ad- work with Isabella Rossellini, ority for Eileen and the compa- vertising campaigns, running who had been released as ny,” said Old, who noted that the through its design philosophy Lancôme’s face in 1996. At brand now works with Martin as well as its choice of models the time, Rossellini, who was Bone’s agency, Bone & Black. and photographers. in her mid-40s, had been re- That agency has helped Fisher “Since we began, our vision placed by a younger model. hone its message and launch has been pared down to two That story resonated with its current fall campaign “First messages,” said director of vi- Fisher and the brand. Love, New Love,” celebrating sual advertising Ellie Thoren. “She embodied so many the brand’s 30th anniversary. “One: focusing on the design of the things we embodied,” As the apparel brand has and the depiction of really said Thoren, adding that she evolved, so too has its media simple shapes, and two: the thought Rossellini was actual- spend. According to the com- important value of supporting ly at the height of her beauty. pany, it spends $4.5 million a women to be themselves.” For the campaign, which Ads reflect the brand’s fashion and values. year nationally on advertising, The brand waited a full ran in 1998, Stewart Shining 50 percent of which is devoted decade before it launched its shot the actress in black-and- like, Where do you go next?” ees with captions that told the to print, and about 50 percent first advertising campaign, white. She was posed on a Old offered. “We started think- story of the people behind the of which is split nearly equally in WWD, in 1994. The ads re- chair, wearing a black shift ing about how we’re rooted in brand, the real-women cam- for digital and outdoor ads. flected Fisher’s use of five sim- dress, partially covering her authenticity.” paign became a leading factor “We’re still spending more ple shapes, and it didn’t even face; another ad was a portrait According to Old, Fisher in the company’s art direction on print than digital,” said include a model — just the of Rossellini in a simple black had seen a portrait of the late until the mid-2000s. creative director Thoren. clothes on a white background. knit V-neck. Harper’s Bazaar editor in chief The company worked “Print feels just as relevant, It wasn’t until 1996 that the The brand hasn’t used a ce- Liz Tilberis, shot by Timothy with Jill Glover of the Glover but digital is very important firm began using models to lebrity since, vice president of Greenfield-Sanders, that struck Group on several campaigns, as well.” We congratulate Eileen Fisher on 30 years!

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2 on Crescent Siegner’s Ltd Dean’s A Different Point Asheville, NC Abingdon, VA Naperville, IL of View Rochester, NY Fabricate, Inc Koi Petite Connection Greenville, NC Lafayette, LA Delray Beach, FL Lifestyles Saratoga Springs, NY Monkees of Purtian Cape Cod Irresistibles Blowing Rock Hyannis ,MA Marblehead, MA Counterpoint Blowing Rock, NC Rochester, MN Mabel Danahy’s All Together Unique Evelyn and Arthur Amherst ,NY Clothing and Accessories The Children’s Hour Boynton Beach, FL Griffin, GA Salt Lake City, UT 24 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Keeping It Green Sustainability efforts affect every step of the process. By Lauren McCarthy

LOOKING GOOD is only part One of the brand’s earli- of the equation. Denim jeans produced in the U.S. est sustainable strategies,

Beyond design, Eileen Green Eileen, fits perfectly Fisher has put a concentrated into that model. Green Eileen, focus on sustainability efforts a recycled-clothing program, across the board. Its most re- is part of the Eileen Fisher cent initiative, Sustainability Community Foundation, a 2020, maps the company’s nonprofit organization that

goal to be completely sus- supports various female-em- tainable by the year 2020 — a powerment centers, institutes milestone the fi rm is well on and programs. Through Green its way to achieving. The ini- Eileen, customers trade in tiative is overseen by Candice gently used Eileen Fisher Reffe, co-creative offi cer, and clothing for a $5 gift card to- Amy Hall, director of sustain- ’’ ward a future purchase. The ability, and split among four clothes are then cleaned and main sectors: design, manu- resold at a discounted price at facturing, buying and selling, select locations. and engaging the customer. “If you have something that “It’s where we feel we can you’ve worn and has mean- have great impact,” Reffe said ing to you, you don’t really of the four areas. want to just get rid of it,” said Materials used are the larg- Cheryl Campbell, managing est component when chang- director of the Eileen Fisher ing design practices. “That’s Community Foundation. “By where our greatest environ- reselling this, we’re keeping mental impact is,” said Reffe, clothing out of the landfi ll, and “We started out as a company we’re also using the process to

that used a lot of natural ﬁ - BONE & BLACK PHOTO BY help women and girls.” bers, but along the way we had Since its inception in an “aha” moment and realized September 2009, Green Eileen that natural doesn’t always has accepted over 200,000 do- mean good. Now, we are look- We have a vision of what nations. “I thought I was going ing at how we source materi- to have a little rack in the back als.” As of 2014, 67 percent of manufacturing should look like of the store with these gently cotton and 63 percent of linen used clothes,” said Campbell. used is organic. By compari- “It’s been beyond anyone’s son, in 2012, just 2 percent of in the future, and we want to try imaginations.” linen used was organic. The As the initiative main- team hopes to increase these to realize it. tains its popularity, Campbell numbers by 10 percent each hopes to expand the number year to reach the 2020 goal. — CANDICE REFFE, EILEEN FISHER of existing retail locations in “Each of our stepping which Green Eileen second- stones has an annual, incre- China, all working together tries, but beyond that, and all hand clothes are available. mental increase that we’re to make it a success,” said the way back to the farm, it gets “It’s great having a brick-and- hoping to achieve,” explained Reffe. “It’s another example of murkier and murkier.” mortar Green Eileen store, but Hall. “I would say most of how we’re trying to keep our- The mapping exercise with as we want to give the proﬁ ts them are conservative, so selves up to a very strict bar. Made-By led the company to away, the more we can reduce we’re likely to achieve them.” Amy Hall We chose Bluesign because it hire an on-staff supply-chain- our overhead by using existing

While cotton and linen have JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY is the strongest standard out -transparency specialist. Eileen Fisher locations, the bet- exceeded expectations, other there right now.” The sustainability project is, ter for us,” she said. “The goal is materials, such as viscose and able to teach our other facto- To understand the com- above all, a collaborative effort to make it more available.” wool, will be more of a chal- ries about,” said Hall. “We are pany’s supply chain fully, and — clients included. “It’s about Added Reffe, “We’ve always lenge to replace. a worker-owned company and how it might be ecologically im- raising [our customer’s] aware- grown very organically. At 30 “We’ve already been work- want to prototype that for the proved, Reffe and Hall tapped ness,” said Reffe.’’ “Some peo- years, we’re looking back and ing for the past two or three factory, as well.” Made-By, a U.K.-based nonprof- ple walk through the door and we’re looking forward. We years on those projects,” said Added Reffe, “We have a it that works with fashion and know what we’re about, while want to put our stake in the Reffe. “It’s slow-going — it’s not vision of what manufacturing textile brands that want to im- others may not really know ground. That’s why there is a always easy to convert a fabric.” should look like in the future, prove the full life-cycle impact what it means to make a shirt year attached to our sustain- The company is also ad- and we want to try to realize it. of their collections, to map its or dress. We just redesigned our ability [targets]. We want to cre- vancing manufacturing at the We know if we can understand supply chain. “It’s something Web site, so that in the shopping ate some goals that help shape factory level. “We’re looking at it from the fi eld level, then we that’s really hard to grasp,” area, the fi rst thing you see is a different kind of future and factories from a multilayered can be much better partners to said Hall. “We use about 45 the environmental and social create a paradigm shift for picture,” said Reffe. “Part of it our manufacturers.” fi rst-tier suppliers in 12 coun- story behind the garment.” fashion as an industry.” is around the effi ciencies of a The initiative reaches the factory, such as how it’s using supplier and factory level, water and energy, but it’s also as well. As of spring 2012, the very much about the people brand’s silk offerings, which who work there.” account for about 10 percent To promote the best overall of all products, are Bluesign practices, the company is cur- certified, signifying that the rently looking into building its China-imported materials are own factory within New York dyed and fi nished with fewer City. Factories are located chemicals, less water and less around the world, with about energy. Eileen Fisher was the 70 percent of manufacturing fi rst company to have Bluesign- done in China, 20 percent in certifi ed silks, as well as the the U.S., and the remaining first American fashion com- 10 percent split across India, pany to become a Bluesign- Peru, Spain, Turkey, Ethiopia, certifi ed member. Rwanda, Japan and Korea. “It took us three years to get “We’re looking at [a New that dye-house certifi ed, and it York factory] as an opportunity was a collaboration between to create positive environmen- Eileen Fisher, the dye house Repairing clothes for resale. tal impact that we might be and several other people in An ad for Green Eileen. Congratulates Eileen Fisher on

Years of30 Timeless Success

We are Honored to be Part of Your Celebration Congratulations on 30 years of passion, beautiful designs and changing the world, one garment at a time!

We are honored and proud to be a part of your team.

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Experience the power. Visit ww.mcgladrey.com.

MCG-1014JH WE CELEBRATE YOU. Congratulations to Eileen Fisher on 30 years of remarkable success, and here’s to many more!

All the best. David A. Falk and Daniel L. Levine

ADcariaggi_2014WWD30th.pdf 1 29/10/14 15:58 TRICOTS LIESSE WOULD LIKE TO TAKE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO CONGRATULATE EILEEN FISHER AND HER INCREDIBLE TEAM, ON YOUR VERY SPECIAL ACCOMPLISHMENT OF ATTAINING THE

30 YEAR MILESTONE OF INCORPORATION

EF’s insight into the world of fashion, coupled with her extraordinary compassion towards good corporate citizenship and social consciousness, truly has a halo effect on all of those associated with EF to make the world a better place.

WE WISH YOU MANY MORE YEARS OF SUCCESS AND CONGRATULATIONS.