SUMMER 2013 A PUBLICATION OF THE AMERICAN GUILD VOL.XVIII, NO.3

INSIDE THIS ISSUE 2 National Notes 3 Sponsor Spotlight 4 Chapter News and Beyond the Store-Bought T Views by Anne Marie Soto 16 Sew ‘n Tell: National -shirts are available everywhere, from mass merchandisers to specialty retailers, and Sewing Month in a whole range of price points. Given their overwhelming presence in the Success! T marketplace, why would anyone want to spend time sewing one? And 18 why have ASG members around the country embraced chapter pro - Sew ‘n Tell: grams where T-shirts take center stage? Class Act: Sew on the Go The Fit Factor Fit is the number one attraction for making your 20 own T-shirts. Common fitting problems include Sew ‘n Share: drooping shoulders, restrictive sleeve caps, sleeveless Angelina Adds Attitude! versions with gaping armholes, distortion across the bust, and shirts that ride up when you sit down. 22 Sew ‘n Tell: The So we asked some of our favorite T-shirt gurus to give ASG IRS Designation us some insight as to what makes the fit of their T-shirt J. STERN DESIGNS 24 THE TEE #0041 patterns special. Sew Young “As our bodies mature, it is increasingly difficult to pur - chase a ready-to-wear T-shirt that is flattering,” says Pamela PAMELA’S PATTERNS 29 Leggett of Pamela’s Patterns. “If you get one with enough #104 THE PERFECT T-SHIRT Sew for the #105 THE PERFECT TANK TOP Gold room in the hip or bust area, they are usually too big in the neck and shoulders. Making one isn't much easier from a commercial either. 30 They usually require at least five pattern changes in order to have them fit properly.” ASG Pam’s 14 years of experience as a Palmer/Pletsch Fit Instructor inspired her to create Conference patterns that have the most common fit issues built in. Her 2013 patterns are geared for a mature-ish figure and include 32 forward shoulder, high round back, optional front with Book Beat full bust, adjustment lines for shortening the armhole, Book Briefs FASHION PATTERNS BY CONI CS1207 PERFECT KNIT SLOPER and more room at the hip and tummy area. & STYLED T-SHIRT 34 “Almost everyone has at least one fitting Product Previews challenge. It could be something simple like 35 adjusting the length of the sleeves and Industry Insider or something more involved, like creating enough room for a full bust,” observes Jen- 44 nifer Stern-Haseman of J. Stern Designs. She Chapter Calendar incorporates some of the fitting adjustments women need into her patterns. “For example, 47 my women’s-sized pattern has been designed Advertiser Index with a full bust adjustment, relaxed fit, and a 48 short sleeve that is a more generous length.” SILHOUETTE PATTERNS Members Only Jennifer also incorporates an above-the-bust #113 SUNNY’S TOP

SAF-T- PATTERNS PERFECT PAIR 2008 (continued on page 38) Beyond the Store-Bought T The Master Top pattern includes the (continued from page 1) basic T-shirt pattern pieces and instructional video, as well as direc - detail to make it easy to cus - tions and templates for three tomize the fit of the neckline and variations. Her pattern fits bust sizes shoulders independently of the lower 32" to 42". Her system addresses the portion of the tee. fact that some of us need one size in Peggy Sagers, whose Silhouette the front and another in the back. She Patterns are known for their B-, C-, also pays particular attention to those and D-cup sizing, uses the French with a rounded back and those who as her secret T-shirt fitting are short from shoulder to bust point. weapon. She incorporates it into her Emma Seabrooke’s SewkeysE pat - T-shirt patterns because it combines tern line, designed especially for the bust and waist dart, providing knits, includes several T-shirt styles. some shaping and giving a great look Her patterns are created by the drap - —which Peggy claims makes every - ing method rather than the flat pat - one look 10 pounds lighter! When it tern drafting method. Emma draped comes to refining the fit, “there’s no on a variety of figures to get her gen - need to lower or raise the dart if it is eral sizes. The resulting patterns have in the wrong place,” says Peggy. smaller shoulders, a bigger , “With a French dart you simply con - and a lower bustline. “We’re not tinue to up a little higher if perky teenagers,” says Emma. “As we needed or stop stitching a little lower age, we go south. So do my patterns!” if the dart is too high.” Regardless of whose patterns you Connie Crawford of Fashion Pat- choose, in the words of Pamela terns by Coni offers patterns with a Leggett, “The Internet has allowed special cup fit that allows room for many good sewing instructors and the larger cup size figure. Her collec - educators to develop and market tion includes a master T-shirt pattern much better-fitting patterns than the that comes in two size ranges— commercial offerings. Be sure to take Misses’ 8 to 20 and Women’s 1X to 6X. advantage of these wonderful It can be sewn as a simple knit T-shirt instructors! They know your issues or used in developing patterns for because they have them, too!” other design variations. Connie draws on her years of experience in Fabric Flexibility the garment industry to create pat - The second advantage to sewing a T- terns that are balanced front-to-back. shirt is the flexibility to choose the In Connie’s words, this means that fabric you want, in the color you “when patterns are made, the front want. Natural fiber knits (or those and back have to have a proportional with a high percentage of natural 1 difference (at least ⁄2" larger in the fibers) tend to be cooler to wear than front than the back) and the side seam synthetic fibers. For T-shirts, single has to have the same shape. If these knits or lightweight interlocks tend to two items are not correct, when the be less forgiving to your body curves pattern is sewn and put on the body, than knits with a bit more substance. the finished garment will pull or Stretch. It’s important to match the twist. This is very common in quite a stretch of your knit to the pattern’s few patterns. Also, if the armhole is requirements. Generally, a pattern for 1 not longer in the back by ⁄2" (balanced knits will include a gauge — or tell you armhole) the finished garment will how much stretch your fabric should pit out in the front and the shoulders have. If it doesn’t, here’s a method to will pull to the back.” use, courtesy of Connie Crawford: Judy Kessinger’s Fit Nice System 1. Measure your T-shirt pattern’s cir - revolves around two master patterns. cumference at bust level.

© American Sewing Guild • www.asg.org ASG • Summer 2013 2. Using , mark this measurement rics will shrink more than once. To along a cross- fold of your knit. keep your T-shirt looking beautiful 3. Measure your body circumference after it is made, she advocates wash - at full bust. Draw a line on a piece ing the finished item on the gentle of paper that is equal to that meas - cycle and hanging it to dry. Then toss urement. it in the dryer with a fabric softener 4. Place the fabric along the drawn sheet for no more than five minutes. line, with one hand at each - Your T-shirts will look good for years mark. Gently stretch the fabric until if you give them this special care. there is some resistance. If the fabric stretches the length of Finishing Details your body measurement, then you Shoulders. Because the shoulder should be fine. If the amount of seams support the weight of the T- stretch doesn’t match your body shirt, you want to be sure they won’t measurement, go up a pattern size. If stretch out of shape. Both sew-in and the fabric stretches more than 3" past fusible stay tape will work. For light - your body measurement, go down a weight knits, Saf-T-’s Marsha pattern size. McClintock recommends the bias ver - Recovery. This is as crucial as the sion of fusible tape. She fuses it to the amount of stretch. Knits without front shoulder seam so that the tape 1 good recovery aren’t going to stand overlaps the seamline a scant ⁄8" and up to stretching, washing, and wear - then stitches or serges the seam, ing. To test your knit’s recovery, take catching the tape in the stitching. a double layer of the knit, stretch it Jennifer Stern-Haseman prefers to until it resists, and then release it to apply the tape to the back as she see if it goes back to its original shape. serges the shoulder seam together. If the recovery is poor, save the fabric She cuts the tape 2" longer than the for a garment with a loose, flowing shoulder seam measurement, so that style. A little spandex (even as little as it extends 1" beyond each end of the 3%) will add to the fabric’s ability to seam. This gives you a 1" “head start” stretch and recover. of tape that will lead in under the If you are purchasing your knit so the feed dog teeth will online, you might want to have a chat grab it, making serging that short with your fabric resource before buy - shoulder seam go more smoothly. ing. Let them know what you plan to Press the toward the do with it and they can guide you to back, and topstitch it in place. If you suitable options. Some fabric have sensitive skin, this will encase resources list the weight of the knit. the tape in fabric so it doesn’t itch. For example, Nancy’s Notions offers Whichever method you choose, be some T-shirt-friendly knits: a 100% sure to mark the length of the tape to cotton interlock and a 51% cotton/ match the length of the pattern’s 49% polyester interlock (both with shoulder seam so you don’t distort matching rib knit which you can use the seam as you apply the tape. as yardage or to create custom rib - . For necklines that bing), all in a 10.5 oz weight. Other “hug” into your body, the neck - 1 1 online vendors may be able to tell you line band or ribbing 1 ⁄2" to 2 ⁄2" small - the weight if you ask. Once you know er than the neckline opening. As you the weight of a fabric in your stash, attach the band or ribbing, stretch it to mark and save a swatch. That way, fit the neckline opening. you will have a weight reference for On most commercial T-shirts, the future purchases. neckline is finished with a band of If your knit is washable, Pamela self fabric. Home sewers may know Leggett recommends prewashing and drying the fabric twice, as many fab - (continued on page 40)

ASG Notions • Summer 2013 © American Sewing Guild • www.asg.org Beyond the Store-Bought T open. Then, after the band is applied, (continued from page 39) stitch the remaining shoulder seam closed and press it toward the back of this technique as French . The the garment. To secure the bit of seam width of the band should be three allowance at the neck edge, catch it to 1 times the finished width plus ⁄2". So the inside of the neckline with a few 3 for a ⁄8"-wide finished band, cut a tiny hand stitches. On a r-t-w T-shirt, 3 crossgrain strip of knit that is 1 ⁄4" the “catch stitching” is actually a 1 wide; for a ⁄2" wide finished band, cut short row of topstitching that runs it 2" wide. Experiment by making a parallel to the shoulder seam through sample band on a scrap of your knit the band and shoulder seam allow- fabric before you decide on the final ances. However, without a custom- width. Although the narrower band is ized commercial , it’s used on most r-t-w T-shirts, it’s suc - way too easy to make a mess as you cess will depend on the weight of try to machine stitch through so many your fabric. The length of the band layers in this restricted area. 1 1 should be at least 1 ⁄2" to 2 ⁄2" smaller A second finishing option is to use than the neckline opening. Divide fold over elastic. It is available in a both the band and the neckline into wide variety of colors—and even 5 eighths and mark. Pin the band to the some prints. It comes ⁄8" wide with a neckline, right sides together and raw crease down the center, so you get a edges matching. Stitch slowly, gently narrow band without a lot of bulk. stretching the band to fit between the Simply fold the elastic lengthwise in markings. Press lightly to avoid dis - half, sandwich the raw edge of the torting the band. Wrap the band to neckline between the layers of elastic, the inside of the neckline and press and edgestitch in place. So your knit again. Serge-finish, zigzag finish, or doesn’t slip and slide, either hand- pink the raw edge of the band. Pin or baste the elastic in place or glue-baste glue-baste so that the underside of the it securely before stitching. band is secure, then working on the The third option is a traditional right side of the T-shirt, topstitch neckline . If you use a facing, 1 3 close to the inner edge of the band ⁄4"– ⁄8" off the facing’s shoulder through all the layers. seams. As you attach the facing, NOTE: If you plan to serge-finish stretch it to fit the neckline opening. the raw edge of the band, it may be Understitch with a three-step zigzag 1 easier to cut the band an extra ⁄2" wide stitch. Your facings will turn to the and then serge one long edge, trim - inside effortlessly! Block or steam the 1 ming off the extra ⁄2", before you neckline when you are done. apply it to your neckline. And if you are working with a lightweight knit, Options you may want to double the width of A rippled hem can ruin an otherwise the band and then fold it in half beautifully crafted T-shirt. Fortu- lengthwise. Apply it to the garment nately, there are several ways to avoid so the folded edge is on the inside of the ripple effect. Do a test-run on the T-shirt. some fabric scraps to determine your Some T-shirt gurus prefer to com - preferred technique. plete the shirt before applying the Cover stitch. If your serger has this band. In this case, the ends of the capability, here’s where it shines. band are stitched together diagonally Twin needle stitching. The zigzag (to reduce bulk) and then the band is stitch that occurs on the underside applied with the joining seams offset adds flexibility to your hem, which at the center back . However, on many means no popped stitches. Choose a ready-to-wear T-shirts, the neck band twin needle designed for stretch fab - is applied with one shoulder seam rics. If your hem sample has skipped

© American Sewing Guild • www.asg.org ASG Notions • Summer 2013 stitches, try using a different size nee - Anne Marie Soto is the editorial director dle and/or lengthening your stitch. of Notions . She has written articles for Topstitching. Choose either a sin - many publications and has gle row or two parallel rows. Stabilize authored a variety of before stitching. Options include a sewing books, including permanent stabilizer, such as fusible “Simplicity's Simply the knit stay tape or a strip of lightweight Best Sewing Book” (1988 fusible knit , or a tempo - and 2001 editions), “Sim- rary stabilizer, including tear-away, plicity's Simply the Best heat-sensitive, and water-soluble ver - Home Decorating Book” (1993 edition), sions. If the stitches break when you and “Good Housekeeping Stain Rescue.” gently stretch your sample hem, try She was present at the birth of the stitching with woolly nylon in American Sewing Guild, serving as its the . national administrator during the start- NOTE : Don’t overlook the value of up years of the first nine ASG chapters. a . This handy accessory will help eliminate the ripples for done on your conventional sewing machine. No walking foot? T-SHIRT CONTRIBUTORS Experiment by slightly reducing the All of these savvy sewing gurus will presser foot pressure. be teaching at ASG Conference 2013 in Arlington, Va. in August. Beyond the Basic Once you’ve made that first great fit - ting “T,” there’s no reason to stop. Connie Crawford Fashion Patterns by Coni And our T-shirt gurus have seen to it www.fashionpatterns.com that you have plenty of options. Pamela Leggett offers a companion DVD that takes you through the steps Judy Kessinger of constructing her basic pattern and Fit Nice System then goes on to give variations. www.fitnicesystem.com Jennifer Stern-Haseman’s basic T offers multiple opportunities for color Pamela Leggett blocking. Peggy Sagers’ Silhouette Pamela’s Patterns Patterns line includes more than a www.pamelaspatterns.com dozen different T-shirts. Connie Crawford’s basic pattern block Marsha McClintock (CS1207) is designed as a stepping-off Saf-T-Pockets Patterns point for you to become your own www.saf-t-pockets.com designer. Judy Kessinger offers a large selection of variations to her basic pattern in your choice of CD or Peggy Sagers downloadable formats. Emma Sea- Silhouette Patterns www.silhouettepatterns.com brooke offers seven different Neck- line Variations, laminated instruc - tions for design adjustments that can Emma Seabrooke be made to all her T-shirt patterns. SewkeysE Finally, Marsha McClintock shares www.emmaseabrooke.com an idea that will change the look of any T-shirt design: take your favorite T-shirt pattern and serge the seams to Jennifer Stern-Haseman the outside using a contrasting thread J. Stern Designs www.jsterndesigns.com for a colorful accent. Bet you can’t sew just one!!!

ASG Notions • Summer 2013 © American Sewing Guild • www.asg.org