One Fine Day

Whitechapel SFMOMA

San Francisco You’re in town , seen from the for business, but you Fairmont have the day off. Go! Amy Harrity (Coit Tower); Alanna Hale (tacos) Alanna Hale Tower); (Coit Harrity Amy

Cala Kelly Puleio (Whitechapel); Henrik Kam/Courtesy of SFMOMA (museum);

Story Justin Goldman December 2017!!"#

RHAP1217_021_One_Fine_Day.indd 21 09/11/2017 11:25 One Fine Day

9 a.m. meats and potatoes on handmade They call San Francisco the City corn tortillas—in a spare tile and by the Bay, so start your day on concrete space at the restaurant’s the water, at the Ferry Building back entrance. As SF’s own Carlos Marketplace. The nearly 120-year-old Santana would say: ¡Que sabor! building, with its iconic clocktower, is still a functioning ferry terminal, but 2 p.m. the main draw now is the expansive Brave the fog and head to the gourmet food hall. Grab a Ham & city’s largest park, the Presidio, a Tam sandwich (smoked ham and former military base that became Mt. Tam cheese on an Acme challah part of the Golden Gate National roll) from the Cowgirl Creamery Recreation Area in 1994. The green Sidekick Cafe and have a bite while space is replete with hiking and sitting on the dock of the bay. biking trails and views of that big orange bridge everyone’s always 10:30 a.m. talking about and that prison alleg- Stroll down Market Street and edly no one ever escaped from, but hang a left past Yerba Buena it’s a real treat for film geeks. Fort Gardens and into the San Point is where Kim Novak—actually, Francisco Museum of Modern her stunt double—jumped into the Clockwise from top left: 7:30 p.m. the Yoda statue at the Art. SFMOMA reopened in 2016 bay in Vertigo, and the Letterman Letterman Digital Arts Shake out the cobwebs and zip after a three-year renovation that Digital Arts Center, George Lucas’s Center in the Presidio; over to District, where, made it one of the largest modern headquarters, is guarded by a anchovies and fried just around the corner from the hal- and contemporary art museums in statue of Yoda. Life-size, it is. butterbeans at The lowed concert hall, you’ll find The America, and this month is a perfect Progress; a martini at Progress. Stuart Brioza and Nicole Whitechapel; grilled time to visit: Current shows include 5 p.m. cheese from the Cowgirl Krasinski’s 2-year-old restaurant may an Alexander Calder sculpture It’s nap time, so climb—no, actually, Creamery Sidekick Cafe; not have the hype (or the wait) of its exhibit and major retrospectives cab—to the top of Nob Hill and a gallery at SFMOMA older, more casual sister, State Bird on Robert Rauschenberg and the the . Provisions, but it has earned James photographer Walker Evans. The classic Gilded Age palace is Beard Award nominations and a on the National Register of Historic Michelin star (and it takes reserva- 1 p.m. Places, and for good reason: tions). This is Northern , Mexican food is a must in San Following the 1906 earthquake it so seasonality rules, but can’t-miss Francisco, but if you don’t quite was repaired by groundbreaking menu items include lamb shank have the appetite for one of the (no pun intended) architect Julia and octopus a la plancha and local Mission District’s famously hefty Morgan, and in 1961 anchovies with fried butterbeans. burritos, head to Cala, just on the gave his first performance of “I Left (Brioza himself calls those tiny fish other side of Civic Center in tony My Heart in San Francisco” in the “a religious experience.”) Hayes Valley. Gabriela Cámara, of hotel’s Venetian Room (a statue Mexico City’s famed Contramar, of the now-nonagenarian crooner 10 p.m. opened this Modern Mexican res- stands out front). Don’t forget the Lovers of juniper-based liquor and taurant in 2015 to smashing success. earplugs to counter the clanging Tube-station aesthetics will agree on At lunchtime, she serves mouth- of the cable cars on California and the cocktail venue. Whitechapel, watering tacos de guisado—stewed Powell streets. in the city’s newly hip Tenderloin, is from the owners of the literary- minded cocktail bar Novela and the nautically minded tiki bar The Smuggler’s Cove (a mainstay on the

World’s 50 Best Bars list), and claims (sandwich) SFMOMA (museum); Chloe List y of to have “the largest gin selection in North America.” Order one of the many variations on a G&T or a martini, or get a Bohemian Grove Accord (cabernet-barrel gin, gen- ever, Becherovka, oloroso sherry, and orange Curaçao), named after a high-society men’s camp in Sonoma County, and have a seat beneath the subway tiles and barrel-vaulted ceiling. Don’t forget to take your heart when you go. imageBROKER/Alamy (Yoda); Henrik Kam/Courtes Henrik (Yoda); imageBROKER/Alamy

!!""December 2017

RHAP1217_021_One_Fine_Day.indd 22 09/11/2017 11:26