St. John CEO Leaving in Early November Builder Z Supply Is Driven by Deborah Belgum Senior Editor by Decades of Experience Beetz Left Coty to Invest in St

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$2.99 VOLUME 70, Number 47 october 31–November 6, 2014 The Voice of the Industry for 69 years

Retail real estate Redondo Beach’s Boutique Retail Project Delayed By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

There’s going to be a yearlong wait until anything can happen with The Waterfront, a $300 million renovation of the pier area in Redondo Beach, Calif. Recently, the Redondo Beach City Council voted to take another swing at the environmental impact report for the Waterfront project, which was originally slated to bring unique boutique retail, a farmers-style market and upscale restaurants to what many local businesspeople consider a rundown waterfront, 21 miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles. The area is surrounded by well-off beach cities in Los Angeles’ South Bay, where the median income is $90,000 annually, according to the project’s developer, CenterCal Properties, headquartered in El Segundo, Calif. For the upcoming EIR process, Redondo Beach’s plan- ners and politicians will have to consider alternatives to the current plan, which range from a no-growth option where the waterfront remains the same to lower-density growth. ➥ South Bay page 3 felix salzman WESTERN EXPOSURE: New York label Ruffian opted to show its Spring ’15 collection in Los Angeles at an Oct. 27 event at the Gavlak Gallery. For more looks from the show, see page 5 Fast-Growing Apparel Brand St. John CEO Leaving in Early November Builder Z Supply Is Driven By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor by Decades of Experience Beetz left Coty to invest in St. John along with Chinese con- After a little more than one year on the job, Geoffroy van glomerate Fosun International. Vestar Capital Partners still By Julie Gallego Contributing Writer Raemdonck is stepping down as the chief executive of St. John, owns a majority share. the high-end knitwear company based in Irvine, Calif. Recently, Beetz was named to the board of directors of Quik- Tucked into one of the many nondescript office parks in Ir- Temporarily taking over the role of CEO will be Bernd silver, a surfwear brand based in Huntington Beach, Calif. vine, Calif., is apparel manufacturer Z Supply Inc. Just a little Beetz, who is currently the executive chairman of the board St. John, which employs 2,500 people, manufactures the ma- over a year old, Z Supply is growing into a mini-powerhouse of the company he partially owns. A search for a new chief jority of its clothing collection in its Irvine facility, where scores producing contemporary womenswear that is sold in 1,800 executive will start immediately. Van Raemdonck’s departure of knitting machines are located. stores from coast to coast. is effective Nov. 6. The company was founded in 1962 by Bob and Marie Gray, Founded in 2013 with four lines—Black Swan, Others “We have made tremendous progress to further strengthen a former model. She started out knitting a shift dress for herself Follow, White Crow and Z Supply—the apparel maker has this iconic brand and, on behalf of the board, wish Geoffroy the and then expanded to knit suits and other items to capture a managed impressive growth in a short time. best in his future endeavors,” Beetz said. “The business remains well-to-do customer who didn’t mind paying $2,000 to $2,500 The company, which recently expanded into the top floor well capitalized and positioned as we continue to execute our for an outfit. About two-thirds of the collection is daywear and of the building it leases on Cowan Street near John Wayne global expansion strategy.” the rest is eveningwear. Marie Gray is still on the company’s Airport, cleared $8 million in sales last year with its four Beetz, who joined the company in 2013, hired van Raemdon- board. Bob Gray died in 2012. brands and expects to nearly double that to $14 million by ck from Louis Vuitton, where he was president, South Europe, While 80 percent of the company’s sales are still in the the end of this year, said Greg Garrett, Z Supply’s owner, co- based in Milan. The Louis Vuitton executive succeeded Glenn United States, St. John has been eying China and other Asian founder and driving force. McMahon, who held the chief executive position for six years. countries as a bright frontier for expansion. St. John has 24 “When we moved here, I thought we would never fill it up,” Beetz, who was chief executive of Coty Inc. for 11 years, company-owned boutiques and is sold in luxury department he said. Now the top floor is being primed for an expanded grew the beauty company’s revenues from $1.3 billion to $4.7 stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Nor- staff of customer-service reps and marketing staff, and a bright billion and expanded the company’s presence to 135 countries. dstrom. ● ➥ Z Supply page 8

company profile Inside: SM 1st Round: Boosting Athletic Performance With Where fashion gets down to business Textile Technology

By Alison A. Nieder Executive Editor made from a mineral-embedded textile that enhances performance by boosting endurance and reducing fatigue. When planning the concept behind their sports-appar- The EnergyDNA technology uses fibers embedded with 2 6 el line, 1st Round Athletics, Teague Egan and Sterling minerals such as silver, titanium, aluminum, carbon and cop- Brewster wanted to take the idea of wearable technology a per. One of the elements in EnergyDNA is Celliant, which True Religion omnichannel push ... p. 2 step further. was initially created to help improve circulation for diabetes DSquared2 opens in LA ... p. 2 “Instead of creating a line that will read your vital organs patients, Egan said. Benefits of the fiber technology include or tell you your blood pressure, heart rate or how many calo- improved circulation, increased oxygen levels in muscle tis- CIT, CFA discuss finance alternatives ... p. 3 ries you burned, [we were looking at] what’s the next step sue, and antimicrobial properties for sweat and odor resis- What’s Checking ... p. 6 we can take and have the clothes increase the performance of tance. the user,” said Brewster, who serves as president of the Los The 1st Round line includes compression garments de- T-Shirt Resources ... p. 9 Angeles–based company. signed for professional athletes. “We also make looser-fit 1st Round features men’s and women’s athletic apparel ➥ 1st Round page 5 www.apparelnews.net

01,3-6,8-9.cover.indd 1 10/30/14 5:47:31 PM news Rodeo’s DSquared2 Shop Takes Bow on Rodeo With Caten Brothers

With fingernails painted sneakers, jeans, eyewear and Storageassociati designed the look. of marriage noire film “Gone Girl,” Dita von Halloween black, twins fragrance. On Oct. 28, DSquared2 threw a gala at a Teese, model Shaun Ross, stylist Brad Gore- Dean and Dan Caten of the The main floor and most private residence in West Hollywood, Calif., ski and Cameron Silver, co-owner of De- DSquared2 designer label of the 4,500-square-foot where celebrities Alexander Ludwig of the cades boutique, celebrated the DSquared2 swept into Beverly Hills Oct. boutique is devoted to men’s “Hunger Games” films, Emily Ratajkowski store.—Andrew Asch 28 for the grand opening of styles. In the back there’s their first U.S. boutique, suiting and tuxedos pro- at 461 N. Rodeo Drive. (It duced by Isaia, the Neopoli- was formerly the address tan suit label. DSquared2’s True Religion Goes Omnichannel of the Etro boutique, which men’s jeans, sneakers, bags moved to Two Rodeo Drive and accessories are placed in John Hazen thinks a lot of shoppers are difference is that it is designed for sales as- in 2013.) the front of the store. Wom- put off by various retailers’ experiments with sociates, not customers, Hazen said. It pro- As with all Rodeo Drive en’s styles are located on omnichannel—in particular, the kiosks used vides a selling tool that allows the sales as- stores, the DSquared2 store the first level, or “subterra- in omnichannel-focused stores. These kiosks sociate to take shoppers through every pos- presented a magisterial ex- nean” floor, of the shop and typically find uses ranging from viewing a sible category in True Religion’s collection, terior look. However, inside includes red-carpet gowns, brand’s full collection to completing a sale. which, in lingo of the digital biz, is called an the store there was a lot of Dean (left) and Dan Caten footwear, bags, jewelry and Retailers such as Staples use kiosks. “endless aisle.” room for whimsy, including T-shirts. Hazen vowed that any om- the humorous jailhouse-themed Fall/Winter The store features dark wood panels and nichannel experience that he 2014 collection “Caten Penitentiary.” the dressing rooms’ graphics of forests in- would create would be differ- “You go in bad and you come out good spired by the Catens’ native Canada. The ent. True Religion Apparel and fashionable,” joked Dan Caten, who Catens and Milan-based architectural firm Inc., headquartered in Vernon, wore a denim DSquared2 Calif., hired Hazen in June to be shirt. its vice president of omnichan- The Catens started nel commerce and digital in- DSquared2 in their native novation. He formerly directed Toronto. They currently omnichannel services for ac- reside in London, and the tion-sports brands Fox Racing collections are manufac- and O’Neill. He put his views tured in Italy. They also on kiosks and omnichannel on intend to open boutiques display with the recent debut of

in New York and in Miami True Religion’s remodel of its Courtesy of T rue R eligion in the next few months. store in Los Angeles’ Beverly The designers said they Center. THE PARTY: This kiosk made its debut at True Religion’s wanted to create places “The learning curve is high,” Beverly Center opening. where they could show ev- he said of shoppers trying to ery category in their col- navigate omnichannel kiosks in stores. “It’s Also, shoppers cannot pay for an item lection, which runs from time-consuming. It’s not easy to check out self-serve style at a kiosk as they would at men’s suits to red-carpet THE STORE: Interior of Rodeo Drive’s DSquared2 boutique. Image [pay for an item] on a large screen.” The ki- a supermarket or big-box retailer. Rather, a gowns, streetwear-savvy courtesy of DSquared2 osk experiment could be embarrassing, too. sales associate conducts the sale and is cred- Shoppers often have to figure out how to use a ited with the sale immediately. Sales associ- kiosk in front of a store filled with shoppers. ates also are equipped, typically, with a mo- The two stars of True Religion’s Beverly bile point of sale–system iPad tablet. Center remodel are a 42-inch portrait screen The kiosk will not only be able to show kiosk mounted on a wall in the middle of the entire collection, but it will help search the store and an LED screen at the front of stock in other True Religion stores and help the store to attract people inside. Hazen and reserve items that may not be at that loca- his team created a proprietary platform for tion. The kiosks will be tested at other True the kiosk. E-commerce software technology Religion stores, in Summerlin, Nev., and company Demandware also was used in the New York. The program may eventually be system. rolled out to its more than 124 stores in the One of the True Religion kiosk’s point of U.S.—A.A.

COS Opens 1st U.S. Store in Beverly Hills

Come COS—an H&M division that offers contemporary visit our WWW.HENRYHANGER.COM fashion for women, men and children—opened its showroom first U.S. store Oct. 30, in Beverly Hills, Calif. The new store is located at 357 N. Beverly Drive, New York Showroom in a space that formerly housed a Banana Republic. Its neighbors are boutiques such as Iro, Intermix, 1 877.HenryNY Scoop, Alice + Olivia and Planet Blue. With 5,683 square feet of selling space, the store Los Angeles Showroom THE DEBUT: Opening-night party at offers men’s suits, woven shirts, sweaters, leather COS in Beverly Hills 1 877.HenryLA boots, women’s trousers, jewelry and underwear, much of it with a stylish, mid-20th-century inspiration. Some prices include $89 for a men’s Nashua Office & woven shirt and $99 for a women’s slim-side zip trousers. Manufacturing Keeping with the brand’s aspiration toward refined style, the store’s design goes for a minimal, Scandinavian-inspired design, with blonde wood-looking floors, raw steel hanging 1 800.88Henry rails that create different rooms within the space, and mid-century modern and contemporary furniture. COS opened in London in 2007 and runs a fleet of stores with locations in Europe, Asia and the Middle East.—A.A.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS october 31–November 6, 2014 apparelnews.net

02.news.indd 2 10/30/14 5:59:17 PM finance Experts Discuss Financing Options for Businesses Big and Small By Alison A. Nieder Executive Editor working-capital deficiency.” Her business connects these companies with a network of “It works in tandem with banks and factors. It’s not meant third-party advisers and investors. Financing alternatives from traditional methods such as to replace existing or conventional financing,” he said. “Fac- “There is a lot of support from the U.S. government that factoring to crowdfunding opportunities were discussed at a tors continue to do the credit approval and lend on receiv- is left on the table,” she said. “Very few companies are tak- recent panel discussion featuring factors, investment bank- ables.” ing advantage of the growth opportunities of emerging mar- ers and other finance experts. kets.” “We are in the area of the country that develops new tal- Investment potential Both Fitzgerald’s and Suominen’s companies offer an on- ent,” said Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion line platform for companies to connect with investors. Association, who co-moderated the event with Mitch Co- For Brownlie and Moser, each representing private-equi- These platforms are providing an efficient way to re- hen, regional manager of CIT Commercial Services. ty investment firms, the apparel industry represents a “rich search accredited investors, Suominen said. Organized by CIT and the CFA, the Oct. 23 event, titled industry with multiple opportunities,” Moser said. “We leverage technology to reach a broad offering of in- “Green Is the Color of Money,” was held at the Omni Hotel “It’s a very large industry with opportunities for brands vestors,” Fitzgerald said. “By introducing technology, [these in downtown Los Angeles. The panel included CIT Presi- to grow and scale,” she said. Moser’s firm has invested in platforms] allow companies to focus on relevant investors. dent Jon Lucas; Steve Brownlie, managing director of Alta- apparel companies such as Paige Premium Denim and Re- We’re able to cut down fundraising time to two to three mont Capital Partners; Jennifer Baxter Moser, managing volve Clothing. months from 12 to 18 months.” director of TSG Consumer Partners; Paul D. Schuldiner, “There are lots of companies in different situations, rang- Suominen described her company as a “conduit” for managing director of business development for King Trade ing from companies that have hit on a right trend or owners companies to gain access to investors and expertise. Capital; Katie Fitzgerald, manager business development that want to take their chips off the table or bring in a part- “At the end of the day the deal is between you and the inves- for CircleUp; and Kati Suominen, founder and chief ex- ner,” Brownlie said. “There are also the type of opportuni- tor, not you and the platform,” she said. ecutive officer of TradeUp and of Nextrade Group LLC, ties where a company finds themselves in situations that are as well as founder and partner of the US Export Capital out of their control. We bring more than capital. We bring Brand vs. private label Group LLC. experts and additional structure.” Cohen started the event off with a series of questions for Brownlie said his Palo Alto, Calif.–based firm will even While many on the panel said they were looking for great the audience, who were equipped with hand-held meters to look at a company that has “hit a plateau or has been ne- brands with potential for growth, Metchek asked if any were record their answers. According to the results, 86 percent glected.” looking at private-label manufacturers that may be interested of attendees use factoring in their business or recommend “The core strength of the brand is really paramount,” he in building their own brand. it to others. Most said they use factoring for account-receiv- said. “The next stage of growth might be something man- “We haven’t heard about financing companies with great ables management and credit protection. A smaller, but still agement doesn’t have experience with.” potential to become great brands,” she said. “Most of the significant group—69 percent—said they had brought in Altamont invested in action-sports brand Dakine, which companies in California are private label. Where is the mon- private-equity financing or have recommended it, primarily was under the Billabong umbrella while the surf brand was ey to get to the point to be a great brand?” to gain market share, while 54 percent also said they use undergoing a proxy fight. For CIT and King Trade, many of their clients are private- or recommend purchase-order financing to build equity or “Dakine was a great example of what we’re looking for,” label manufacturers. because the company is undercapitalized. Brownlie said. “It has a loyal customer base, but within Bill- “The companies we look at are on their way to being And while 42 percent said they are aware of crowdfund- abong different factors caused the brand to be neglected.” brands,” Schuldiner said. “Companies like Billabong, hon- ing but never explored it, 30 percent said they were unaware With Altamont’s help, the company expanded its product estly, aren’t going to need P.O. financing.” of crowdfunding at all, and only 13 percent said they have categories and shored up its international business, he said. While crowdfunding resources such as CircleUp typi- used crowdfunding in their own business. cally look at up-and-coming brands rather than private-label For many in the apparel industry, factoring is the tradi- Crowdfunding from start-up to export manufacturers, Fitzgerald acknowledged the value of indus- tional means of financing a business. try experience. “The basic product, the purchasing of an invoice, hasn’t Fitzgerald’s company, CircleUp, looks for “standout” “If you have experience in the industry and are starting a changed [in years],” Lucas said. What has changed is tech- companies in the earlier stages of brand building. new brand, that’s more interesting to an investor than a com- nology. [Today,] we communicate electronically—we use CircleUp is perfect for “companies that have historically pany with no experience in the industry,” she said. electronic credit filings. Technology helps us process invoic- had trouble raising capital,” she said. “If you are sub-$15 Both Brownlie and Moser said their companies like to es. There are more changes in the consumer product space million, you don’t have a lot of resources to facilitate growth invest in founders—the “visionary” behind the brand. and retail space. The landscape has changed. Our clients at an earlier stage. We get companies through that difficult “What we see is people care deeply about the legacy of have fewer [retailers] to sell to. Their exposure is larger.” stage.” what they’ve built,” Brownlie said. The cyclical nature of the fashion industry and the scale Suominen’s business, TradeUp, helps connect companies But both Lucas and Schuldiner noted the importance of of big-box retailers have also provided an opportunity for looking to export with potential investors. strong management teams as well. factors that provide purchase-order financing. “Our focus is on exportation across sectors,” she said. “The founder has the vision, but before him are the team, “It’s an incremental finance tool,” Schuldiner said. “It “These companies typically grow very rapidly once they the ones that are on the front line every day,” Schuldiner allows customers to take an order that they wouldn’t have reach the international stage. Companies that typically come said. been able to.” to us have trouble securing capital from traditional banks.” Lucus said CIT looks primarily at the management team Schuldiner said the use of P.O. financing has grown as Suominen said her company looks at “more-seasoned and the business plan. big-box retailers have begun giving orders to customers companies” that already sell overseas, “given that there is “It’s more of an art than a science,” he said. “There are that may have “seasonal cash-flow problems and short-term a learning curve.” many different ways to finance a business.” ●

retail

South Bay Continued from page 1 been talk about turning AES’ 10 acres into a multi-use development of residences, open space and shops called Harbor Village. However, The new EIR is scheduled to be completed in late 2015, and, if ap- the Redondo Beach City Council voted to put the Harbor Village plan proved, construction could start in 2016, said Mickey Marraffino, up for a much wider vote and recently approved a measure to put the CenterCal’s vice president of marketing. plan on the March 2015 municipal ballot. Redondo Beach voters will Redevelopment of the pier has been an issue for the seaside city’s get a final say on what to do with the land. chamber-of-commerce crowd for decades, but plans for development gained momentum in 2012 when CenterCal was awarded a contract Locals divided to develop the waterfront area, whose history goes back more than 100 years. Critics of the Waterfront and Harbor Village projects, such as Re- “It will be different from a traditional mall,” Marraffino said. “The dondo Beach City Councilmember Bill Brand, believe the original best feature will be the Pacific Ocean. The entire project is along the proposals were not reviewed closely enough by Redondo Beach resi- waterfront.” dents and will bring more traffic to an already congested city. Originally proposed for the development: a luxury cinema with a Businesspeople in Redondo Beach generally seem to think The restaurant, a new public boardwalk with unique retail proposed for Waterfront project will benefit the area’s economy. “It’s the perfect the project, park space, new paths for bicyclists and pedestrians, and undeveloped place,” said Lisa Zagha, owner of the Lisa Z fashion Shade, a high-end boutique hotel that is proposed to be developed by boutique, located a mile away from the development in the Riviera the Zislis Group. (The company also runs a Shade hotel in neighbor- Village boutique district. “The pier is broken down.” She forecasts ing Manhattan Beach.) the development will attract Redondo Beach residents to spend more To develop this area, CenterCal must demolish 221,347 square feet dollars in their hometown and bring more tourists to the area. In turn, of existing structures and build 289,906 square feet of new develop- the tourists will spend more in places such as Riviera Village. ments, according to the Redondo Beach planning department’s de- Muhammed El-Hasan is the co-owner of Beach Bowls Açai Café scription of the project. restaurant, a Redondo Beach resident and former business editor of Redondo Beach also will be in store for more major changes. AES the Daily Breeze newspaper. California, a power provider and an electrical-plant operator, said it “As a resident, it’s a headache,” he said of traffic. “But as a busi- is in a position to close its more than 60-year-old power plant neigh- nessman, it’s a blessing. If they stop this plan, another plan will come OLD REDONDO: The Redondo Beach pier boring The Waterfront project. AES has constructed smaller, more- up. It’s an uncut, unpolished diamond,” he said of the waterfront area. sign. The city is currently discussing a $300 efficient plants nearby, according to the company’s website. There has ● million redevelopment of the pier.

apparelnews.net october 31–November 6, 2014 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3-6,8-9.cover.indd 3 10/30/14 5:48:21 PM REtAIL Coming Soon in Macerich Says Shopping-Mall Sales Are Up The Macerich Co., which owns Santa saw their occupancy levels rise to 95.6 percent Monica Place and a host of other shopping compared with 93.7 percent last year. November centers across the country, said its tenants “It was another solid quarter for us as we saw their annual sales per square foot inch maintained our positive leading momentum, up 4 percent from one year ago. recording both further occupancy gains and Annual sales went from $549 a square continued double-digit releasing spreads,” November 7 foot last year to $571 this year for the quarter said Arthur Coppola, Macerich’s chairman Cover: Fashion ending Sept. 30. and chief executive, in a statement. E-tail Spot Check On a comparable-mall basis, tenant sales The shopping-center operator—which increased to $569 per square foot from $567 has outposts in New York, Virginia, Arizona, Denim Report a square foot last year. Illinois, Oregon and California—noted it Eco Notes In its third-quarter results, the real estate in- was adding a 48,000-square-foot ArcLight Fashion Advertorial vestment trust, headquartered in Santa Monica, Cinemas to the Santa Monica Place mall, Print/ONline Sample Calif., said its net income was $35.9 million, or which should open in one year. Sales Special 25 cents per diluted share, on $263.5 million The company is also selling its South in revenues compared with $38.1 million, or Towne Center mall in Sandy, Utah, for $205 27 cents per diluted share, on $269 million for million. Annual tenant sales at the mall were the same period last year. The company’s malls $344 per square foot.—Deborah Belgum 11/7 Alice + Olivia to Melrose Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet has director, said her brand runs a couple of other found a new Los Angeles home. boutiques in Los Angeles County but Melrose The contemporary brand recently moved would serve as the flagship. “LA is my sec- November 14 into its new flagship, located at 8501 Melrose ond home and so important to our brand. It is Cover: Fashion Ave., at the corner of Melrose and La Cien- so exciting to be opening a flagship store on Retail Report ega Boulevard. The brand’s flagship at 134 S. Melrose,” she said in a statement. Surf Report Robertson Blvd. will close in March. The 2,100-square-foot boutique will offer Visual Display The store moved because it needed more Alice + Olivia’s entire collection—including Trade Show Special Section space, according to a company representative. gowns, shoes, handbags and accessories—as Stacey Bendet, the New York–headquartered well as items from third-party brands. Bonus Distribution brand’s chief executive officer and creative —Andrew Asch DG Expo SF 11/23–24 11/14 San Clemente Retailer Killed in Murder/Suicide A day at Bliss boutique in San Clem- deputies assigned to the sheriff’s Critical In- ente, Calif., turned tragic when Cynthia Jean cident Response Team were dispatched to the November 21 Rosier, the owner of Bliss, was allegedly shot store at 167 Avenida Del Mar, which is San Cover: Fashion and killed by her husband, Patrick Dillard, on Clemente’s main boutique shopping street. Technology Oct. 25. Once they entered the boutique, they found The couple was going through a divorce. the bodies of the gunman and the victim. Tags & Labels Media reports say that a gunman walked into Bliss had served San Clemente for more Fashion Faces the boutique, killed Rosier and then killed than a decade. The 3,000-square-foot bou- Tags & Labels Advertorial himself. A worker who fled the boutique was tique sold high-end contemporary apparel, physically unharmed. footwear and bags, as well as emerging de- An Orange County Sheriff’s Department signers. It is unclear what is next for the statement said that at 2:40 p.m. on Oct. 25, boutique.—A.A.

11/21 Calendar Nov. 5 Nov. 19 “Techpacks in Excel” workshop by Fashion Business Inc. “Branding Insights” Rodeo Drive “Walk of Style” California Market Center, A792 Avery Dennison RBIS Customer Ceremony for Burberry Los Angeles Design & Innovation Center Rodeo Drive November 28 Los Angeles Beverly Hills, Calif. Nov. 23 Cover: Fashion Nov. 12 Nov. 20 DG Textile Expo Fabric & Trim Show New Resources Designer & the Muse, presented “InDesign In Fashion Best 750 Kearny St. by FGI Practices,” presented by Kevin Retail Report San Francisco Mr. C hotel Sheffield Through Nov. 24 T-Shirts Los Angeles FIDM Lingerie in Focus Los Angeles Nov. 13 T-shirt Advertorial Nov. 22 There’s more Fashion Resource “Negotiating Chargebacks” on ApparelNews.net. webinar by Fashion Business City of Hope’s “Spirit of Life” Inc. Gatsby Party Celebration For calendar details and contact online The W Hotel information, visit ApparelNews. 11/28 Hollywood net/calendar.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel Call now for speCial rates News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Proper- ties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2014 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Published weekly except semi-weekly first week Terry MarTinez of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertis- (213) 627-3737 x213 ers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS october 31–November 6, 2014 APPARELNEWS.NEt

01,3-6,8-9.cover.indd 4 10/30/14 5:48:51 PM news events California’s Retail Picture Brightens West Coast Debut for Ruffian California fashion retail keeps growing. cy did not break down categories of stores— New York designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais skipped the New York Fashion Week Through booms and tough times of the whether they are independent boutiques, big- runways at Lincoln Center in favor of a more intimate setting at the Gavlak Gallery in Los past decade, the Golden State’s clothiers box stores or department stores. Angeles, where the two showed their Spring 2015 Ruffian collection on Oct. 27. have grown steadily, according to data from The BLS also found that California is a fash- the San Francisco office of the Bureau of ion retail juggernaut. More than 12 percent of Labor Statistics. the nation’s fashion retail employees work here. California saw a 10 percent increase in the Their average wage is $20,000 annually, accord- number of stores in the past decade. The state ing to the BLS. Despite a steep fall during the sold jeans, basics, bikinis, T-shirts, caps, suits Great Recession, employment and store counts and dresses at 9,946 stores in 2013, the last have rebounded, according to the BLS report year the BLS covered this category. The agen- that was released in June.—Andrew Asch

Jerry Leigh Named New Dickies Girl Licensee Veteran Los Angeles apparel maker Jerry color and youthfulness to the juniors brand Leigh of California has been given the li- and sold it at major department stores and cense to make Dickies Girl juniors apparel. specialty stores. The license was awarded by Texas work Years later, the two had a falling out. In wear company Williamson-Dickie Manu- 2012, Apparel Limited sued Williamson- facturing Co., which has been making hard- Dickie in federal court, claiming that the work core work wear as well as more fashionable wear company was cannibalizing the Dickies pieces since 1922. Girl brand. Apparel Limited said in its lawsuit The Oct. 30 announcement said that Jerry that it became aware in 2010 that Williamson- Leigh would start design, production and Dickie allegedly was manufacturing and sell-

sales of the line immediately. Products will ing merchandise that duplicated Apparel’s felix s a lzm n include work and fashion tops, bottoms, out- custom-designed Dickies Girl line. erwear, juniors underwear, sleepwear and Apparel Limited said Williamson-Dickie loungewear. was selling “even sizes” of these designs on Jerry Leigh takes over the Dickies Girl the same racks in Walmart and other stores license from Los Angeles–based Apparel where Apparel’s Dickies Girl was sold in odd Limited Inc., which had been making Dick- sizes. The products were so close that neither ies Girl apparel for about 15 years. customers nor sales staff could distinguish be- “Dickies has a rich and storied history, and tween the two products, court papers said. Jerry Leigh is thrilled to be involved with this Sarshar said he returned the Dickies Girl revered brand,” said Andrew Leigh, president license a few months ago to Williamson- and chief executive of Jerry Leigh, founded Dickie. by his father in 1962. ‘We are excited to have Jerry Leigh will begin shipping Dickies been selected to grow and update the Dick- Girl in February 2015 as current inventories ies Girl pants and tops business. We also look are depleted. The company will start with forward to supporting the category with fash- legacy products and develop new items in ion items to wear in social settings.” 2015. Apparel Limited founder Masud Sarshar, Jerry Leigh, who has manufacturing op- who launched his company in the late 1980s, erations in Guatemala and Shanghai, has started to dye classic Dickies bib-overalls in other licenses that include agreements with

24 bright colors in 1996. Shortly afterwards, Disney, Hello Kitty, Hasbro, Paul Frank, Aremis S tudios he approached Williamson-Dickie about Marvel and a host of other well-known METROPOLITAN LA: Los Angeles designer Jason Ryan showed his avant-garde menswear collection as part of Metropolitan Fashion Week, held Oct. 26 at Greystone Mansion in Beverly Hills. Ryan was obtaining the exclusive license for Dickies brands. It makes clothes for men, women, part of a lineup that included Xavier Othon, David Tupaz, Adan Terriquez, Mireille Dagher, Christos Girl, which he won. For years, he injected children and babies.—Deborah Belgum Costarellos and Divina by Edward Arsouni.

company profile

ing an Indiegogo campaign that helped Egan and Brewster “That’s a huge demographic of athletes that look for the Continued from page 1 1st Round raise $55,000 in seed capital, followed by a seed round of top performance benefits in companies,” Egan said. athletic garments as well as seamless garments for your av- $725,000. The line is currently available on the 1st Round Earlier this year, Egan and Brewster signed the brand’s erage weekend warrior, gym goer or yogi,” said Egan, who website (1stRound.com) and sells for $55 to $100. first licensing deal to become the official apparel partner of serves as 1st Round’s chief executive officer. the FIA Formula E Championship, the electric car–racing According to the company, EnergyDNA’s thermo-con- Pro tested series that held its first race in September in Beijing. 1st ductive minerals convert heat into “reusable energy by re- Round will be producing merchandise for Formula E per- flecting, absorbing and recycling the body’s natural energy NFL player Jordan Campbell, linebacker for the Kansas sonnel, as well as fan merchandise such as jackets, T-shirts, back to the body, increasing oxygen delivery to muscles.” City Chiefs, and Olympic gold medal–winning sprinter Shawn polo shirts and caps. Egan and Brewster’s part- Crawford are the first two official athletic endorsements for Eventually, Egan and Brewster plan to expand distribution ner in the venture is Trenton 1st Round. Egan and Brewster are looking to enlist the sup- to include traditional channels such as sporting-goods retail- Horinek, who serves as chief port of several other profes- technology officer and oversees sional athletes, drawing from the development of the fabric. their personal connections to Celliant, which is produced in the sports business. Prior to Taiwan, was initially created launching 1st Round, the two to help improve circulation for entrepreneurs ran a sports diabetes patients, Egan said. agency under the same name “We were doing research while still at the University into how to make the fabric on of Southern California. The our own and completely verti- two were friends with many cally integrate ourselves—from of the USC football play- finding the minerals to break- ers and chose the 1st Round ing them down to embedding name as a nod to their friends’ Shawn Crawford them in the fibers and making draft status. “A bunch of our PERFORMANCE-MINDED: The 1st Round collection includes compression garments designed for the yarn and the fabric—when USC friends got drafted in the professional athletes, as well as looser-fits and seamless styles for the non-professional athlete. we came across our technology partner, Celliant,” Egan said. first round,” Egan said. “It means being first and being the best. ers, but for now they are taking a grassroots approach to build- “They had already put in about eight years of research and de- If you’re 1st Round, you’re the best.” ing the 1st Round brand by “reaching out to athletes, showing velopment as well as millions of dollars in the clinical studies “Right now, we have a lot of people who are wearing the them what the product can do for them, how it can make them proving that it does increase circulation and increase oxygen in line,” Egan said, adding that he and Brewster have about 30 better,” Brewster said. the muscles.” NFL players and 10 NBA players, as well as MLB and NHL The two plan “to scale the business through profession- Egan and Brewster brought on former Lululemon de- players wearing 1st Round products. Plus, he said, “We’re al athletes and to get it synonymously known with them,” signer Amy Yeung to help with the design of the line, which looking to do deals with a few sports agencies.” Brewster added. “Then, hopefully, it will have a trickle- is produced in China, Indonesia and Peru. The two are also looking at other sports such as running and down effect with consumers when they see their favorite The collection officially launched in February follow- cycling with an eye on marathon and triathlon athletes. NFL athlete or their favorite driver wearing the brand.” ●

apparelnews.net october 31–November 6, 2014 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 5

01,3-6,8-9.cover.indd 5 10/30/14 5:49:51 PM WhAt’S ChECkINg

GUERILLA ATELIER What’s Checking: Destination Retailers Arts District 427 s. hewitt st. By Alyson Bender Contributing Writer www.guerillagalleries.org

In a sea of large corporate retailers, vintage stores and strip malls, there still remains a small species of Guerilla Atelier is a contemporary boutique that has flourished in stand-alone bricks-and-mortar locations rather than in a boutique luxury retail space that re- neighborhood surrounded by other retailers who cater to a similar customer. sides in a renovated ware- These “destination retailers” stand relatively apart and, yet, have incredibly loyal customers. It takes a house in the heart of the strong sense of brand identity to garner that kind of following, so we caught up with a few of those retailers to Arts District in downtown find out what is the DNA of their brand and why they think they have found success thus far. LA. Carl Louisville, founder of Guerilla Atelier, attributes recently moving into a brand- new space in a burgeoning creative community, along with a NO REST FOR BRIDGET keen eye for craftsmanship in Three locations in orange County fabric selection, fit and tailor- 3121 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach (pictured) ing to the wild success of his 250 e. 17th st., Costa mesa atelier. Bella Terra shopping Center (7777 edinger Ave.), “The downtown community huntington Beach such as Lush, Signature, and in particular the Arts Dis- shop.norestforbridget.com Flying Monkey, Naked trict community has responded Zebra and Audrey, to very well to the idea of a highly Mas Hayakawa, chief executive officer of No Rest name a few, it also intro- considered environment with For Bridget, attributes the success behind the rapidly duced its own private-label exclusive brands not available expanding women’s boutique to selective “merchandis- collection a little anyplace else in the city,” Lou- ing, [a proprietary business intelligence technologies– over a year ago, isville said. “This is a creative Mr. Freedom Watchman based business model], location strategies and the peo- which has proved community with a significant jacket ($449.95) ple we hire.” Stocking affordable, quality fashion styles to be lucrative. percentage of the population and staple basics that turn over almost weekly, it choosing the district because it of- another layer of has become the go-to boutique in Orange County fers unique creative space to self exclusivity on Annelore with locations in Newport Beach, Huntington express—which for Guerilla Ate- top of being the Notehed collar Beach and Costa Mesa. The company also has an lier means a significant local client only retailer in dress ($580) East Coast store in Boston and plans to expand to base to support a unique luxury re- the United States be a national chain with several locations opening tail environment.” to carry certain brands. in selective major cities in the next two years. Guerilla Atelier stays away from “In our women’s collection we For Fall 2014, it has been selling out of all its Vegan-leather trends and pays close attention to have A Rosebud [original textile] plaid and flannel shirts, midi dresses, knits, body- No Rest jacket by Signature the story behind the designers and from Annelore that we nearly sold con dresses and ankle boots. While it carries brands For Bridget ($77.99), Red Tartan their lines. Louisville only works out of on arrival,” Louisville said. Left: Naked Zebra dress burgundy PIKO 1988 shirt ($36.99), Final Touch private- ($48.99) with a couple of hand-picked ven- “We also sold the plum dress to the label dress dors in each category each season. piece on our opening weekend in There’s more cardigan ($32.99) and on ApparelNews.net scarf ($16.99); Right: ($38.99) The store also only typically stocks our new space. [The designer] uses Audrey paisley print dress one size of each item, providing ➥ Guerilla Atelier page 8 ($34.99)

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BUCKS & DOES Guerilla Atelier Continued from page 6 Sunset Junction/Silver Lake a couple of seamstresses from Val- 3906 Sunset Blvd. entino’s couturier who make all her www.bucksanddoes.com patterns and sew all her garments. It’s a Guerilla Atelier exclusive col- Bucks & Does has carved a loyal local customer base at Sunset lection in the city. We also carry an Junction in the 17 months it has been open. Surrounded by numer- exclusive knitwear collection, all ous vintage stores, Bucks & Does stands alone with contemporary hand knit, from Berlin by way of designers, com- dise, always keeping it fresh. Some of its top-selling women’s styles at Switzerland from Vivian Graf. The fortable styles, light the moment include a Rails tartan shirt ($134) and a TYSA jumpsuit long cardigan dress [$600] has been knits, timeless accesso- that is available in a series of prints ($219). It also does very well with a fast seller in spite of the recent heat ries, friendly assistance accessories, including Lovelybird hats (averaging $140), Rayban sun- wave. Our clients know these pieces and smooth jams such glasses and Cosabella clutches. don’t stick around, and in the case of as Bon Iver playing According to Jason O’Dell, owner, “65 percent of our current busi- the knitwear, I only stock one of each over the speakers to set ness is women’s, with 35 percent men’s.” O’Dell has built out a design item, which makes them go fast.” the atmosphere. studio and work spaces behind the storefront (not open to the public). Accessories brands the store is cur- Although it typi- There, he houses a design team, pattern makers, sewers and dye special- rently having much success with are cally only orders one ists to produce their two in-house lines—Porridge and O’Dells—both Gordan Graham eyewear and Tara Women’s tartan TYSA O’Dells of each style in each of which do well. Hirschberg jewelry. All Gordan Gra- shirt by Rails jumpsuit women’s top size, it has a weekly Bucks & Does officially launched its online store Oct. 15, which it ham frames are handmade in Japan ($134) ($219) ($170) turnover of merchan- plans to grow in the next few months. with 18-kt.-gold finishing and are num- bered and accompanied by a certificate DIANE MERRICK of authenticity. Prices range from $690 to $790. Tara Hirschberg is a local LA Mid-City Los Angeles designer who uses 18-kt. gold and dia- 7407 Beverly Blvd. monds in her collection. For men’s, the Mister Freedom A destination retailer for more than four “Loco Watchman Denim Jacket” decades in the heart of Los Angeles, Diane Quirky clutch ($48) ($449.95) has done exceptionally Merrick’s boutique draws ce- well. “Best thing I’ve personally ever lebrities and locals alike. San Pellegrino water is of- worn,” remarked Louisville. fered upon arrival, accompanied by and offering vintage housewares to the mix. While she Guerilla Atelier moved to its cur- a familiar, at-home comfortableness does admit to emotional ties to some items, ultimately rent location within the past month. that is warm and inviting. anything and everything in her store has a price. The front part of the space is men’s Although Diane Merrick says she She is known for her collection of cashmere and is and women’s “closet” and home de- used to buy the fashion trends and buying more pants and tops than dresses lately. The sign accessories, and the back is go- labels, which is what put her on the boutique also has an assortment of vegan-leather bags ing to be a rotating fine-art gallery. map, more recently she has changed and totes in bright hues and an array of scarves but As for the future, Louisville says, chooses not to stock shoes. Merrick’s customers love Diane Merrick her buying strategy to buying “what and Doll Face “We are now developing a line of I like, when I like.” She enjoys the her private-label solid basics because they are “easy, proprietary products from handmade Diane instant gratification that buying Im- simple and wearable.” shoes to an exclusive fragrance and Merrick mediate deliveries gives and has “For 43 years I have been carving out a niche for myself, and I am print pants Nikibiki vegan-leather candle collection.” ($42) jacket ($66) expanded into private-label apparel still carving,” Merrick said.

company profile

Z Supply Continued from page 1 menswear in the mid-’90s after a challenge from Tilly’s founder space is set up as a photo studio for look-book Tilly Levine. and catalog shoots. “She threw something at me “I don’t like giving numbers, but we are and said, ‘Here, make this,’” he above projections, and our profits are accord- remembered. “And I did, and I ingly,” said co-owner Glen Reder. “I think thought, ‘Boy, this is fun.’” our growth is phenomenal. I’ve been around Garrett never looked back. He a long time, and I haven’t seen a company that was the brand manager for BB has this growth.” Dakota and went on to work for The quick growth comes from a long histo- Los Angeles–based Swatfame ry in apparel and a core team that has worked Inc., makers of Kut From Kloth together forever. and other women’s lines. “Everybody in this building has been asso- Then, in 2013, along with partners Reder, who gave his age as “old,” and John Zhao, who gave his age as “young,” Garrett (age: “middle”) founded Z Supply. Others Follow Z Supply tees Reder handles the financial end of things while Zhao deals with production and sourcing and acts as go- winning—sell a certain style to tar- between with the company-owned Chinese geted groups of women with little factory, where the clothes are made. overlap in the stores that cater to “I do everything else,” said Garrett, the them. public face of the company, who manages the For instance, Black Swan (whole- brand and connects with retailers. sale priced at $28–$80) is aimed at Black Swan White Crow His partners’ biggest job is “helping me women 25–35 and has a sophisticat- at 16- to 21-year-olds. It is Z Supply’s “bohe- sleep at night,” he said. ed, feminine style with a romantic twist and mian” brand and wholesales from $14 to $42 sells at Nordstrom and high-end specialty to retailers nationwide such as Tilly’s and Ir- Retail-minded stores such as Agoura Hills, Calif.–based vine, Calif.–based No Rest for Bridget. M.Fredric. Garrett describes the Others Follow girl Z SUPPLY TEAM: Greg Garrett, Glen Reder and Unconcerned with of-the-moment trends, Black Swan is “a diverse line—it’s eclec- as the type who can pack her wardrobe into John Zhao the company updates as necessary to stay tic in a way,” said Fred Levine, co-owner of a backpack for a day at the beach followed by current but retains the core look of each line. M.Fredric. The line fits the retailer’s customer a night out. ciated with me, seriously, for over 30 years,” More to the point is making sure the retailers of “hip working moms” ages 30 to 40, Levine “It’s that young California girl,” said mar- said Garrett after introducing several of his want to sell it. said, citing Black Swan’s variety of fabric keting director Beatrice Rosu. Of Z Supply’s team and giving a résumé of connections too “We weren’t really thinking of filling a choices and pieces such as work-appropriate four lines it is the brand with the most Insta- long to recount here. niche but rather an opportunity for the retailer, sheath dresses, easy weekend tees, maxi skirts gram followers and is a fan favorite among Garrett, tall and gray-haired with the casual to offer them a contemporary line at a great and faux-leather jackets. “It’s like Free People the selfie-taking blogger set. air of a long-time Californian, started his ca- margin. Our product is much more specialty for a more mature customer,” Levine said. White Crow sets out to dress women ages reer in the surf industry, working at original driven but offered at a great price for the retail- Others Follow’s Spring 2015 line is filled 21 to 30 who love artisanal denim and graphic surf brand Hang Ten, then at Ocean Pacific ers,” Garrett said. with cut-off shorts, surfer-girl tanks, skater- in the 1970s. He eventually moved into wo- Z Supply’s model is straightforward but skirt minis and music-festival kimonos aimed ➥ Z Supply page 9

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS october 31–November 6, 2014 apparelnews.net

01,3-6,8-9.cover.indd 8 10/30/14 5:57:30 PM COmpany prOFIle T-shirt Resources Apparel News Group Z Supply Continued from page 8

tees—the girl who wants to wear combat boots with her cut-offs Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. and overalls instead of flip-flops. “The ‘edge’ was the White 1881 Athens Highway Crow,’” Garrett said, explaining the delineation of the lines. Jefferson, GA 30549 1945-2014 (706) 367-9834 “It’s just more denim-driven—urban.” White Crow’s whole- Sixty-nine years of news, sale prices range from $18 to $80 and is sold at specialty stores www.buhleryarns.com fashion and information [email protected] such as The Buckle and Chicago-based E Street Denim. CEO/PUBLISHER Finally, Z Supply is a line of comfortable soft knit tees, Contact: David Sasso TERRY MARTINEZ tanks, hoodies, pullovers, and track and yoga-style pants car- Products and Services: Get more than just yarn. In addition to the industry ried at retailers and department stores nationwide. With whole- ‘s best yarn, Buhler provides unsurpassed technical support, transpar- ExECUtIvE EdItOR CLaSSIfIEd aCCOUnt ency, and 20+ years of supply chain partnerships. Our US-based ALISON A. NIEDER ExECUtIvES sale price points ranging from $9 to $20, the line of essentials SEnIOR EdItOR ZENNY R. KATIGBAK facilities allow for quicker delivery and agile responsiveness to market JEFFERY YOUNGER is a retailer favorite. DEBORAH BELGUM CLaSSIfIEd aCCOUntIng trends. Known throughout the industry for consistency, our products are REtaIL EdItOR “We recently discovered Z Supply’s knit line, and we’re MARILOU DELA CRUZ certified safe by Oeko-Tex Standard100, which include Supima Cotton, ANDREW ASCH SERvICE dIRECtORy doing extremely well with it because the fabrics are really EdItORIaL ManagER MicroModal Edelweiss, Micro TENCEL, and various blends. Visit our aCCOUnt ExECUtIvE fine and have a silky feel,’’ said M.Fredric’s Levine. “And the JOHN IRWIN new website at www.buhleryarn.com. JUNE ESpINO COntRIBUtORS body styles range from fitted at the hip to more-generous cuts PROdUCtIOn ManagER ALYSON BENDER KENDALL IN anybody could wear.” The retailer sells Z Supply “Boyfriend BEN COpE Hoodies” for $42 and racer-back tanks for $26 online. VOLKER CORELL aRt dIRECtOR US Blanks RHEA CORTADO DOT WILTZER JOHN ECKMIER Besides adding space and staff, Z Supply has expanded its 3780 S. Hill St. PROdUCtIOn aRtISt CAITLIN KELLY social-media presence by connecting with bloggers who wear Los Angeles, CA 90007 TIM REGAS JOHN FREEMAN FISH their clothing and in the past few months has gotten a new dis- (323) 234-5070 FELIx SALZMAN PHOtO EdItOR N. JAYNE SEWARD JOHN URqUIZA tributor that has cut the company’s turnaround time, making it Fax: (323) 234-5010 MIGUEL STARCEVICH CREdIt ManagER SARAH WOLFSON possible to beef up online sales. Z Supply also has its eye on www.usblanks.net RITA O’CONNOR wEB PROdUCtIOn Products and Services: Welcome to the US Blanks premium fashion basic BUSInESS dEvELOPMEnt overseas markets such as London and Hong Kong, where Gar- ALISABETH MCqUEEN MOLLY RHODES rett gets inspiration, he says. apparel line for men and women. US Blanks is the creation of two CREatIvE MaRkEtIng PUBLISHEd By dIRECtOR But next up is a menswear line that Garrett hopes to launch decades of research and expertise, incorporating the concept that styles tLM PUBLISHIng InC. LOUISE DAMBERG in August 2015. In the corner of the spacious first-floor confer- should be manufactured with the finest cottons and raw materials. We aPPaREL nEwS gROUP believe in the idea that design, fit, and feel can be brought to a new dIRECtOR Of SaLES publishers of: ence area hangs a rack of Z Supply tees mixed with masculine- and MaRkEtIng California Apparel News TERRY MARTINEZ looking pieces and a few items from Others Follow. standard in our market. As a vertical manufacturer, we mill our own fab- Waterwear ric, dye, cut, and sew all right here in the USA. Not only is our cut and SEnIOR aCCOUnt ExECUtIvE Decorated Garrett has been shopping the mix to retailers as a way to AMY VALENCIA ExECUtIvE OffICE sew domestic, but the majority of the yarns we use are made right here aCCOUnt ExECUtIvE illustrate the vibe of what a Z Supply menswear line would California Market Center at home. US Blanks’ quality standards ensure that superior fabric, inno- LYNNE KASCH look like. 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 vative designs, and quality sewing are implemented on every garment SaLES aSSIStant/RECEPtIOnISt Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 “There’s a lot of opportunity there,” he says. that passes through our Southern California facilities. We appreciate NOEL ESCOBAR (213) 627-3737 Despite the company’s growth, Garrett thinks of Z Supply adMInIStRatIvE aSSIStant Fax (213) 623-5707 each and every customer that will keep the U.S. manufacturing jobs RACHEL MARTINEZ Classified Advertising Fax as a start-up. here and help the U.S. economy thrive. SaLES aSSIStant (213) 623-1515 “I always want to maintain that exciting energy that is of- pENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY www.apparelnews.net [email protected] ten found at start-up companies,” he says. “I want to keep it Printed in the U.S.A. fun for everyone—retailers and employers. You have to keep it This listing is provided as a free service to our advertisers. We regret that we cannot fun and new for the retailer so that they keep buying into your be responsible for any errors or omissions within T-Shirt Resources. brand.” ●

Directory of Professional Services & Business Resources

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CLASSIFIEDS www.classifieds.apparelnews.net P 213-627-3737 Ext. 278, 280 F 213-623-1515 www.apparelnews.net Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available

1ST THRU PROD. PATTERNMAKER Great opportuni- CUSTOMER SERVICE ty for a highly detail, organized and self- Contemporary company looking for experienced Customer motivated individual. Min. 5 years exp.Must have strong Service/Billing. Must be knowledgeable in Quickbooks & Ex- communication skills and able to keep to schedule. cel. Must be organized and able to multi task. Please e-mail Greber or Pad. Email resume/salary history: resume to [email protected] [email protected]

apparelnews.net october 31–November 6, 2014 CalIFOrnIa apparel news 9

01,3-6,8-9.cover.indd 9 10/30/14 9:23:54 PM Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available

CUTTING SUPERVISOR Routing Clerk Company requires an individual proficient in UPS and in Neckwear Los Angeles Division routing large and small chain stores. This person will be Looking for a highly organized individual with strong at- responsible for routing all outgoing shipments to cus- tention to detail tomers and incoming from suppliers. Must be able to PRODUCT DEVELOPER read, understand and follow routing guide procedures. The Cutting Department Supervisor oversees cutting 5-7+ years in a Product Development role in fashion This position requires computer literacy with email, ex- production personnel in order to ensure efficient produc- industry. Possess creativity and eye for color and cel, UPS, apparel industry software and various chain tion output and to maintain workload priorities. quality. Computer proficiency in MS Word, Excel, store logistics websites. Experience with scheduling WebPDM, Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign helpful. Ability to communicate effectively both verbally The Cutting Department Supervisor coordinates cutting experience strongly preferred. A team player with a and in writing is required. Apparel industry experience orders and other requests to meet production needs. He/ demonstrated ability to problem solve and partner with preferred. Bilingual Spanish/English is a plus. Wages she distributes the workload, and resolves personnel is- other department to effect solution. Strong written and commensurate with experience. sues in order to cover for absences, tardiness, etc. Other verbal communication skills. Knowledge of the competi- Please email resume to: [email protected] duties include making cardboard patterns or stencils for tive market place in terms of qualities, price and trends. custom patterns, organizing patterns, fabricating sam- Relationships with domestic and offshore fabric vendors ples/custom swatches, or other "rush" needs. The Cut- and factories. College Degree or equivalent experience. ting Department Supervisor oversees component pro- Send resume to [email protected] duction personnel (tipping, lining and cutting), concur- rently checking in with the Production Manager and/or Demin Sales Representative/Merchandiser * 1st THRU PRODUCTION PATTERN MAKER Director of Manufacturing in order to ensure production "Grace in LA" seeks Denim Sales Rep/Merchandiser. Must We are looking for an experienced 1st thru Prod. pattern output, priorities and a smooth work flow. Training of have Denim Sales experience. Must be fully versed in all maker. Must have experience in women's apparel. new and current personnel in cutting techniques, pattern denim products and related strategies and must have two or Strong communication and organizational skills. Gerber making and cutting efficiencies is also done by the Cut- more years of experience in similar merchandising role. system a plus. Min 2 -3 yrs experience. ting Department Supervisor. Must have basic knowledge of retail math and be proficient in excel. Commission rate is negotiable. Contact: * WOMEN'S APPAREL PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Please submit resumes to [email protected] [email protected] Assist domestic & import production Shipping Coordinator and Chargeback Analyst Measure samples Shipping Coordinator who has knowledge in Routing Guide- Assemble tech packs lines and Vendor Compliance for all major accts. Knowledge Min 1-3 years experience in the industry in EDI and AIMS is a MUST! AS400/VPS Software knowledge a plus Strong communication skills, oral & written Chargeback Specialist/Customer Service Chargeback Analyst familiar with major accts. Knowledge in Strong MS Office skills, especially Excel To work with major stores & boutiques to reconcile & Aims and QB a plus. Strong organizational skills mediate charge backs. To work closely with prod, shipping, sales, cust. serv. & acctg in order to implement & Please e-mail resume Production managers need not apply. This is an entry monitor corrective measures. To assist cust serv with to [email protected]. level position for someone who has 1-3 yrs apparel exp. data entry, Factor credit check & approval. Must be proficient in Excel. MARK AND ESTEL INC. SEEKING Email resume and salary history in Word/PDF format to: [email protected] PROFESSIONAL SEAMSTRESS (Los Angeles) [email protected] or fax to 323-277-6830 Candidate must have 5+ years professional garment sewing Data Entry experience. Knowledge of tailored garment construction is a Production Patternmaker Johnny Was is in need of Data Entry. Must be experi- must. Experience operating an industrial sewing machine Women's contemp. garment dye company enced with SPS Commerce - EDI and UPC Data entry (single needle, overlock, and overstitch) is desired. English has opening for production patternmaker. Must (Intertrade). Fax resume to:(323)231-5231 speaking. Samples and references required. Contact have garment dye experience/Tuka tech knowledge. E-mail to: [email protected] [email protected] Salary and benefits commensurate with exp. Email resume to [email protected]. Sales force wanted SPORTSWEAR CUSTOMER SERVICE HAAMA group is building its sales force. Experienced in a Garment Industry. Dynamic and excel- Junior Dress Company in the City of Commerce has the Join us for selling Pocket and Fusing linings to LA manufac- lent verbal communications Duties includes customer following openings: turers. Ideal candidates must have good contacts in the LA and sales rep order processing and follow ups. Work manufacturers scene. Please submit your resume to: closely with Production. Knowledge of AIMS a plus. Production full time Sample Sewers. 5 + years experi- [email protected] Email resume to: [email protected] or ence sewing both daytime and special occasion dresses. fax to (323- 526-5866) Ability to communicate with design staff and pattern- Imports Coordinator makers is required. Competitive salary and benefits. Downtown garments manufacturer looking for an Im- ports coordinator, responsible for working with overseas 1st Patternmaker. Must be detail oriented, have an eye factories in all aspects of planning and communication. for junior styling, good communication skills, min of 5 + Must have good understanding of garment construction Candidate Open House on Thurs, Nov 6th at the Cooper years experience and be able to use Gerber 8. Competi- and production process. At least five years' relevant ex- Building - 860 S. Los Angeles Street, Mezzanine Suite 4, tive Salary and benefits. perience and excellent communications skills required. from 10am-6pm. This event is for new freelance & full time Email resumes to: [email protected] Email: [email protected] talent. Great opportunity for top talent with fashion industry SALES REP experience! Bring your Resume, Portfolio, and 2 forms of ID. Production Mgr. Assist./Tech.Designer New contemporary fashion T-shirt brand is seeking an ener- Visit us at fourthfloorfashion.com -5yrs exp. in swim/knit. Knowledge in grading. getic and seasoned independent sales rep with 3-5 years of Basic patternmaking. Must be detail oriented, highly or- current connections/relationships with established retail ac- Sales Executive ganized and a team player. counts to sell hip T-shirt line featuring original and unique Immediate availability for an experienced sales profes- Ideal candidate will work alongside Prod.Mgr designs. Looking for placement in upscale and/or trendy sional. We represent contemporary women's apparel & West L.A.based boutiques. Current relationships with boutiques and inde- accessories brands. Several years experience in selling Send resume to: [email protected] pendent stores is preferred. Must show track record of suc- juniors/women's contemporary wholesale is preferred. cess with both. Base plus comm. Contact: [email protected] JR. ADVERTISING Email resume to [email protected]. SALES EXECUTIVE * Seeking professional, CAD ARTIST/SPEC TECH energetic salesperson with Dress Designer Expert Illustrator and Adobe CAD artist needed for in house Apparel Industry and or Ad Agency experience. Please Commerce based manufacturer looking for an experienced CAD's for sales team and TECH PACKS for import team. email your resume to: Dress Designer in wovens & knits. 3 yrs. Min. exp as SPEC TECH/CAD ARTIST. [email protected] Salary commensurate with experience. E-mail resumes to: [email protected] Pls send your resume to: [email protected]

10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS october 31–November 6, 2014 APPARELNEWS.net

10-11.classified.indd 10 10/30/14 9:27:10 PM Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available DESIGNER FAST PACED Jr. Company seeks an creative, highly motivat- Sr. Costing Needed in Commerce, CA ed & enthusiastic DESIGNER.Must provide details sketches/ Create cost sheets, estimate garment consumption/ designs, perform market research & trend analysis, manage yields. Work closely with import factories, sales, & production to ensure target prices and delivery are met. Al- pattern & sample makers & entire sample room,& must have PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER Illustrator EXPER. DESIGNER will create the sample line for so responsible for pre-production. At least 7yrs produc- Must have 5 yrs. Exp. with Stretch, Rigid Denim fabrics, each market [email protected] tion and costing experience req'd. Must have knowledge Knits, jersey, top, bottom, women, kids, and men lines. of garment construction, fabrics, and trims. Must know Well Organized, detailed oriented with sense of urgency. pattern layout to get best yields. JUNIOR LEVEL SALES REP Must know how to work with shrinkage, grading, nest Email resume to [email protected] For established LA Contemporary Collection. Must have reading, fitting, some marking, specs. at least 2 years wholesale exp. Existing relationship w/ Must know how to use Optitex System, some hand pat- West Coast buyers preferred. Will also assist Sales tern making & leather patterns xp. preferred Manager w/ major accounts. Email resume to: [email protected] Human Resource Generalist 2 yrs Previous HR exp required APPAREL SPEC TECHNICIAN SAMPLE ROOM MANAGER Bilingual, English & Spanish NEW GROWING COMPANY LOOKING FOR SOMEONE WHO 5+ years experience in the fashion industry and sample Assist Operations Department & HR Manager. CAN SPEC GARMENTS. GREAT GROWTH POTENTIAL TO making. Responsible for managing sample room, Track and Report leave of absences, FMLA, WC, etc. BECOME AN EXPERIENCED TECHNICAL DESIGNER. cutters and sewers. Familiar garment construction and fabric dye. Responsible for communication between Laundry QC PLEASE FAX RESUME 213 623-3815 sample room and design and making sure deadlines are Must have 3 yrs. xp. with high end denim washes, tie met. Knowledge in pattern making is a plus Email re- dyes, dip dyes, laser washes, paper transfer designs. sume along with salary requirement to: Must have sense of urgency to get cuts on time, need to [email protected] interact between laundries, follow up with samples and TOPs, good reporting skills and problem solving PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER Textile CAD Designer required. Must have min. 10 yrs exp. Expertise in Advanced Con- Leading LA based Fabric converter seeking talented full temporary construction. Exp. with garment dye, washes, time textile cad designer: Submit resumes to Hiring Mgr. [email protected] shrinkages a must. Must be Gerber proficient. Must be -Must have knowledge of repeats, color separation and or fax: (562) 806-6785 able to keep to schedule, communicate well and work cleaning of designs well with others. -Strong understanding of production aspect such as S/O Buy, Sell and Trade Please send resumes w/work and salary history to: and engraving communication with overseas mills [email protected] -Must have at least 5 years experience in textile industry Wanted a Hot Promotionally Priced Jr. Line! -Candidate must have good communication skills in I have connections with everybody. general Are you capable of producing & shipping volume orders? -Nedgraphics skill is a must and Photoshop a plus. Email: [email protected] Please email resume to: [email protected] Call: 213*268*8889 or Fax it : 213-688-2874 WE NEED FABRIC COSTING ASSOCIATE Silks Wools Denims Knits Prints Solids... Apparel & Home decorative. Create and update cost sheets in an accurate and effi- No lot to small or large... cient manner for domestic and import departments. Also, buy sample room inventories... Must have strong written and verbal skills and capable of Stone Harbor 323-277-2777 juggling multiple projects in conjunction with handling Marvin or Michael daily assignments. Require 2 year experience and hold Sales Representative college degree. WE BUY FABRIC! Import company looking for sales representatives for our Ju- Please send resume to [email protected]. Excess rolls, lots, sample yardage, small to large qty's. nior woven lines, including woven tops, dresses, shorts and ALL FABRICS! pants. In house and free lancer are both welcome. Ideal can- fabricmerchants.com Steve 818-219-3002 didates must have a strong understanding of fashion industry, with at least 3-5 years junior line import sales experi- Freelance PAD Pattern & Marker Service ence. Having existing major customers/accounts are pref- First, Production, Grade, Knock-Off, Spec ered. Email: [email protected] Keryl Kris Reinke [email protected] Cathy McCroskey [email protected] Real Estate

SPACE FOR LEASE * In newly renovated Anjac Fashion Buildings Entry Level Design Assistant in the heart of Downtown Fashion District. Strong needed for a CA based hosiery manufacturer. * Industrial, retail and office space also available Candidate should be able to work independently, multi- throughout the San Fernando Valley. task and have strong design skills, specifically illustrator. * Retail and office space also available just Interested candidates please submit resume and CAD south of Downtown. examples for consideration: [email protected] 213-626-5321 or email [email protected]

GARMENT BUILDINGS Mercantile Center 500 sq. ft. - 16,500 sq. ft. Priced Right. Full Floors 4500 sq ft., Lights-Racks-New Paint-Power Parking Available-Good Freight. Call 213-627-3754 Design Patternmaker Garment Lofts 300 sq ft - 1,000 sq ft. Call 213-627-3755

APPARELNEWS.net October 31–November 6, 2014 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 11

10-11.classified.indd 11 10/30/14 9:27:20 PM USBlanks 022213.indd 1 2/21/13 6:14:00 PM