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Federal-State Land Use Planning Commission For Alaska

! Dear Reader:

Preservation of Alaska's primitive land is important to society for a variety of reasons: Wildlands are used for recreation: they are needed by living cultures and contain the archeologic record of past peoples. Alaska's undeveloped areas are our nations last extensive wilderness. And they support ecosystems including their wildlife, which have been fragmented or lost in other states. The Commission has delineated these values in a number of studies so that an adequate and representative system of the states natural lands can be set aside for present and future generations.

Landscape values are an equally important aspect of the natural setting. But until now the visual and aesthetic qualitites a·f the Alaska environ­ ment have not received the same attention as such other factors as Recreation, Culture and History, Wilderness, and Ecosystems. Landscape has been neglected as a primary value of natural lands because it has not been sufficiently described, quantified, and categorized. It has been the province of the artist, not the scientist, and perhaps rightly so.

But Alaska is changing, and if the state's diverse natural landscapes are to survive, efforts for their protection must be undertaken now. Visual and aesthetic values should be given full weight in the estab­ lishment of Federal and State parks and other preserves. Furthermore, the vulnerability of various landscapes to disruption can be a con­ sideration in the creation of land use plans and development guidelines ! throughout the state.

We believe therefore, that "Alaska Natural Landscapes" fills a major gap in the studies that have been completed by the commission and by others in recent years . .I __ j ~(!~iJ~Ifl~ l Esther c. Wunnicke Walter B. Parker Federal Co-Chairman State Co-Chairman I -~

733 W. FOURTH AVENUE, SUITE 400 ANCHORAGE, ALASKA 99501 i ALASKA NATURAL LANDSCAPES

By Richard J. Gordon and Benjamin A. Shaine

Illustrations by Ayse Gilbert

_,i Joint Federal-State Land Use Planning Commission __ j ' for Alaska

. J May, 1978

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75 75 Acknowledgments. Acknowledgments. I I

73 73

Citations. Citations. --' --'

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72 72 .. .. Summary Summary

Area. Area. River River 70 70 White White The The

Complex: Complex: Scenic Scenic a a of of Example Example An An

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34 34 3. 3. Map Map of of Elements Elements Complexes: Complexes:

Scenic Scenic and and Units Units Visual Visual Representative Representative or or Outstanding Outstanding

29 29 ...... Viewpoints Viewpoints Important Important

28 28 .• .• ...... Places Places Special Special

22 22 Landscapes. Landscapes. River-Related River-Related of of System System A A

22 22 ...... 2 2 Map Map of of Elements Elements

Places: Places: Special Special and and Viewpoints, Viewpoints, Environments, Environments, River River

21 21 Types. Types. Character Character Landscape Landscape Alaska Alaska of of Distribution Distribution

18 18 Alaska Alaska of of Divisions Divisions Topographic Topographic

16 16 Landform Landform

16 16 . . Relief Relief

15 15 Location Location

15 15 1 1 Map Map of of Elements Elements Types: Types: Character Character Landscape Landscape Alaska Alaska

10 10 Landscapes. Landscapes. Evaluating Evaluating for for Criteria Criteria Illustrating Illustrating Areas Areas

8 8 Landscapes Landscapes Outstanding Outstanding Evaluating Evaluating for for Criteria Criteria

4 4 . . Method Method

3 3 Study Study this this in in Used Used Terms Terms Some Some of of Definitions Definitions

2 2 Study Study this this of of Components Components

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1 1 ...... Introduction Introduction

CONTENTS CONTENTS

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a a diversity diversity of of outstanding outstanding visual visual units units

are are in in proximity. proximity.

- I I perspective perspective on on specified specified criteria; criteria; and and scenic scenic complexes, complexes, where where

of of a a single single character character type type which which stand stand out out from from a a statewide statewide

These These superlative superlative landscapes landscapes are are of of two two kinds: kinds: Visual Visual units units

o o Second, Second, description description of of

the the superlative superlative landscapes landscapes of of Alaska. Alaska.

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them them over over the the entire entire state. state.

J J lists lists the the kinds kinds of of landscape landscape units units found found in in Alaska Alaska and and maps maps

landscape landscape units units in in limited limited parts parts of. of. the the state. state. Our Our analysis analysis

terminology. terminology. These These two two agencies agencies are are now now beginning beginning to to map map

type," type," using using Bureau Bureau of of Land Land Management Management and and U.S. U.S. ForestService ForestService

These These areas areas can can be be said said to to have have a a specified specified "visual "visual character character

areas areas of of clearly clearly interrelated, interrelated, uniform uniform visual visual characteristics. characteristics.

o o ·First, ·First, - J J identification identification ,:~ ,:~ of of areas areas with with describable describable visual visual character: character:

of of land land as as experienced experienced by by people. people. The The analysis analysis involves involves two two tasks: tasks:

Landscape Landscape is is defined defined here here as as including including the the aesthetic aesthetic and and visual visual aspects aspects

types. types. This This study study can can be be used used as as one one tool tool in in developing developing such such a a system. system.

system system protecting protecting outstanding outstanding representatives representatives of of the the various various landscape landscape

undisturbed undisturbed character character of of Alaska Alaska landscapes landscapes by by creating creating a a statewide statewide

and and regulations. regulations. Policy Policy makers makers may may wish wish to to attach attach special special value value to to the the

ment. ment. It It can can be be used used in in the the creation creation of of landscape landscape protection protection policies policies

vulnerabilities vulnerabilities and and strengths strengths of of the the various various landscape landscape types types for for develop­

A A landscape landscape inventory inventory can can be be the the basis basis for for further further work·listing work·listing the the

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and and alter alter our our findings. findings.

as as a a starting starting point point for for such such discussions, discussions, will will refine, refine, ~hich ~hich criticize, criticize,

but but people people from from many many backgrounds. backgrounds. We We hope hope that that this this study study can can be be used used

landscape landscape aesthetics aesthetics

requires requires

much much discussion discussion among among not not only only professionals, professionals,

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than than we we were were able able to to give give in in a a brief brief time. time. Consensus Consensus on on issues issues of of

been been published published in in Alaska Alaska and and which which deserves deserves considerably considerably more more attention attention

This This work work is is preliminary preliminary because because it it covers covers a a subject subject on on which which little little has has

statewide statewide significance. significance.

we we have have found found a a combination combination of of superlative superlative landscape landscape qualities qualities of of

illustrate illustrate each each landscape landscape type. type. In In addition, addition, we we map map those those areas areas where where

Alaska Alaska landscapes landscapes and and describe describe outstanding outstanding or or representative representative areas areas that that

their their value value can can be be more more clearly clearly understood. understood. We We identify identify characteristic characteristic

purpose purpose of of this this study study is is to to describe describe the the landscapes landscapes of of Alaska Alaska so so that that

particularly particularly in in the the diverse diverse and and spectacular spectacular setting setting of of Alaska. Alaska. The The

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the the visual visual aspects aspects of of the the natural natural environment environment are are important important to to people, people,

seldom seldom given given weight weight in in resource resource development development and and land land use use decisions. decisions. Yet Yet

Because Because it it is is not not usually usually quantified quantified and and categorized, categorized, landscape landscape is is INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION

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illustrating illustrating .. .. (1) (1)

analysis analysis of of the the landscape. landscape. Nonetheless, Nonetheless,

it it is is worth worth introducing introducing and and

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we we have have mapped. mapped. To To an an extent, extent, the the concept concept goes goes beyond beyond a a strictly strictly visual visual

significant significant cultural cultural ·or ·or historical historical values, values,

as as do do several several special special places places

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some some people people have have developed developed a a special special feeling. feeling. They They may may also also represent represent

and and scenic scenic complexes. complexes. They They tend tend also also to to be be areas areas for for which which at at least least

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distinctive distinctive

and and thus thus are are important important in in identifying identifying outstanding outstanding 1 1 landscape~ landscape~

are are smaller smaller in in

extent extent than than visual visual units. units.

They They can can make make a a landscape landscape

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or or from from especially especially interesting interesting i i viewpoints. viewpoints. Generally, Generally, special special places places

particular particular peak, peak, wall wall or or gorge, gorge, waterform waterform or or other other individual individual feature, feature,

valleys. valleys. They They may may derive derive their their special special character character from from the the presence presence of of a a

Special Special places places are are often often formed formed by by enclosures, enclosures, such such as as canyons canyons and and

Special Special Place: Place: An An area area of of unique unique or or striking striking visual visual characteristics. characteristics.

into into a a scenic scenic complex. complex.

and and unify unify a a scenic scenic complex. complex. Sequence Sequence is is also also a a factor factor unifying unifying areas areas

from from key key observation observation points points can can cover cover diverse diverse landscape landscape character character types types

one one visual· visual· character character type, type, which which may may be be experienced experienced together. together. Viewsheds Viewsheds

scenic scenic complex complex consists consists of of several several visual visual units units representing representing more more than than

representational representational visual visual characteristics characteristics in in contiguous contiguous areas. areas. Usually Usually a a

Scenic Scenic Complex: Complex: A A landscape landscape of of diverse, diverse, ?triking, ?triking, or or distinctively distinctively

happen happen to to be be in in existence existence today. today.

encouraged encouraged by by the the geography geography of of natural natural features, features, rather' rather' than than roads roads that that

these these same same features. features. In In this this study, study, we we consider consider only only the the sequences sequences

movement. movement. Roads, Roads, railroads., railroads., and and often often light light aircraft aircraft usually usually follow follow

examples examples of of natural natural features features that that tend tend to to pattern pattern the the sequence sequence of of human human

lake lake systems, systems, saltwater saltwater passages, passages, coasts, coasts, and and valleys-and-passes valleys-and-passes are are

the the sequence sequence of of their their perceptions. perceptions. Navigable Navigable rivers, rivers, interconnected interconnected

of.movement of.movement and and thus thus the the location location from from which which they they see see the the landscape, landscape, and and

travel travel along along given given routes. routes. Landform Landform tends tends to to dictate dictate peoples' peoples' patterns patterns

Sequence: Sequence: The The tendency tendency of of the the land land to to channel channel and and encourage encourage human human

although although diverse diverse in in character. character.

feature, feature, or or which which is is a a usually usually unified unified and and internally internally related related unit unit

small small in in extent, extent, or or which which has has a a strong strong visual visual focus focus on on one one central central

related related viewsheds, viewsheds, or or which which is is visually visually very very homogeneous homogeneous and and relatively relatively

Visual Visual Unit: Unit: area·of area·of An An land land encompassing encompassing a a viewshed viewshed or or set set of of closely closely

Viewshed: Viewshed: The The area.that area.that can can be be seen seen from from a a given given location. location.

the the Bureau Bureau

of of Land Land Management Management and and U.S. U.S. Forest Forest Service. Service.

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or or consistently consistently similar similar visual visual characteristics. characteristics.

This This term term is is used used

by by ~,

a a single single visual visual character character type type is is a a area area of of clearly clearly interrelated, interrelated, uniform uniform

Visual Visual Character Character Type: Type:

The The overall overall appearance appearance of of the the land. land. An An area area of of

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DEFINITIONS DEFINITIONS OF OF SOME SOME TERMS TERMS IN IN THIS THIS USE~ USE~ STUDY STUDY

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and and differences differences within within Alaska. Alaska.

subdivisions subdivisions

which which effectively effectively delineate delineate the the regional regional visual visual similarities similarities

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boundary.) boundary.) The The result result is is a a single single set set of of regional regional divisions divisions and and selected selected

character character type, type, extending extending on on both both sides sides of of the the physiographic physiographic division division

transitional transitional landscape landscape itself itself may may be be delineated delineated as as a a distinct distinct visual visual

without without doing doing violence violence to to physiographic physiographic breaks.. breaks.. (In (In such such cas·es, cas·es, the the

expanses, expanses, making making it it feasible feasible to to use use approximate approximate vegetation vegetation boundaries boundaries

physiographic physiographic or or vegetative vegetative aspects aspects or or both both are are transitional transitional over over broad broad

used used to to separate separate the the major major vegetative vegetative types. types. In In other other cases, cases, either either

tive tive

features features such such as as ridgelines ridgelines or or mountain mountain fronts, fronts, which which also also can can be be

all all cases. cases. In In many many cases, cases, physiographic physiographic boundaries boundaries are are formed formed by by distinc­

to to

reflect reflect locations locations of of regional regional interfaces interfaces of of these these vegetative vegetative types types in in

Accordingly, Accordingly, we we have have modified modified traditional traditional regional regional physiographic physiographic boundaries boundaries

distinctive distinctive visual visual appearances, appearances, as as also also does does high high brush brush where where it it dominates. dominates.

("northwoods") ("northwoods") forest, forest, and and coastal coastal (rain) (rain) forest forest to to present present strikingly strikingly

We We consider consider the the three three major major vegetative vegetative types types in in Alaska--tundra, Alaska--tundra, boreal boreal

primarily primarily a a function function of of climate. climate.

of of texture texture and and color color are are geologic geologic structure structure and and vegetation, vegetation, the the latter latter

secondarily secondarily on on similarities similarities of of texture texture and and color. color. Two Two primary primary determinants determinants

based based

primarily primarily on on large-scale large-scale relationships relationships of of landforms landforms and and relief relief and and

All All three three maps maps included included in in this this study study show show a a regionalization regionalization of of Alaska Alaska

visual visual character. character.

for for dividing dividing the the state state into into landscape landscape regions regions and and into into unit.s unit.s of of specific specific

appropriate. appropriate.

Wahrhaftig's Wahrhaftig's physiographic physiographic map map was was our our most most important important tool tool

We We borrowed borrowed freely freely from from all all of of these these sources sources and and modified modified as as seemed seemed

mapping mapping of of the the Chugach Chugach and and Tongass Tongass National National Forests. Forests.

Reserve-Alaska Reserve-Alaska

and and

Forty-Mile Forty-Mile areas, areas, and and the the Forest Forest Service Service

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Existing Existing 7. 7. BLM BLM landscape landscape mapping mapping for for the the National National Petroleum Petroleum

Stenmark Stenmark and and others. others.

other other scenic scenic resource resource identification identification .maps .maps (9, (9, 10) 10) prepared prepared by by

Commission's Commission's Resources Resources Inventory Inventory of of Alaska Alaska (8) (8) as as well well as as

6. 6. Stenmark's Stenmark's mapping mapping and and evaluation evaluation of of scenic scenic quality quality in in the the

focus focus of of many many landscape landscape units. units. (7) (7)

Department Department of of the the Interior, Interior, locating locating features features which which are are the the

interagency interagency workshop workshop conducted conducted by by the the Commission Commission and and the the

A A list list 5. 5. and and map map of of Alaska's Alaska's natural natural features features developed developed by by an an

divisions divisions and and smaller smaller units. units.

which which were were used used whenever whenever possible possible in in defining defining physiographic physiographic

as as an an indicator indicator of of ecosystems ecosystems and and ecotones, ecotones, (6) (6) boundaries boundaries of of

4. 4. The The Commission's Commission's ecosystems ecosystems

(vegetative (vegetative type) type) map map of of Alaska, Alaska, I I ' '

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area area has has been been selected. selected.

which which are are required required to to exemplify exemplify the the qualities qualities for for which which the the

particular particular geographic geographic area. area. Included Included are are only only those those portions portions

intended intended to to include include all all visual visual or or physiographic physiographic aspects aspects of of a a

be be outstanding outstanding as as a a whole. whole. Scenic Scenic complexes complexes are are not not

generally generally

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or or of of a a region region of of sufficient sufficient

overall overall diversity diversity or or quality quality to to ; ;

be be comprised comprised either either of of a a grouping grouping of of outstanding outstanding visual visual units, units,

4. 4. To To encompass encompass as as scenic scenic complexes complexes some some larger larger areas, areas, which which may may

types, types, rather rather than than a a complete complete cataloging cataloging of of them. them.

may may represent represent only only outstanding outstanding examples examples of of such such landscape landscape

only only a a limited limited number number of of visual visual units units are are delineated, delineated, which which

in in Alaska. Alaska. In In regions regions where where striking striking scenery scenery abounds, abounds, however, however,

3. 3. To To include include as as visual visual units units the the most most visually visually striking striking places places

merely merely as as a a representative representative example example of of a a type. type.

Each Each unit unit was was selected selected on on its its individual individual merits, merits, however--not however--not

2. 2. To To identify identify the the widest widest possible possible range range of of landscape landscape types. types.

upon upon each each of of the the listed listed criteria. criteria.

1. 1. To To include include outstanding outstanding landscapes landscapes throughout throughout the the state state based based

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may may increase increase

satisfaction satisfaction from from __ __ directly directly perceived perceived vistas. vistas. } }

landscapes landscapes have have been been produced, produced,

and and are are still still being being altered, altered,

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4. 4. The The contemplation contemplation and and understanding understanding of of the the processes processes by by which which

visual visual experience experience . .

presence presence in in the the past past may may give give an an additional additional depth depth to to the the

3. 3. The The visual visual evidence evidence of, of, or or merely merely the the knowledge knowledge of, of, human human

or or even even thought thought of of such such views views may may do do the the same. same.

people people may may provide provide a a spiritual spiritual satisfaction. satisfaction. The The rememberance rememberance

2. 2. The The experience experience of of viewing viewing landscapes landscapes ·known ·known to to be be unaltered unaltered by by

of of Alaska. Alaska.

of of a a landscape landscape of of considerable considerable social social importance importance as as a a symbol symbol

Denali Denali is is the the highest highest peak peak on on the the continent, continent, it it is is the the center center

assume assume social social or or symbolic symbolic significance. significance. For For example, example, because because

Landscapes Landscapes 1. 1. focused focused on on distinctive distinctive particular particular features features often often

viewer viewer in in at at least least the the following following ways: ways:

have have a a social, social, intellectual, intellectual, emotional, emotional, or or spiritual spiritual impact impact upon upon the the

tics. tics. We We wish wish to to point point out, out, however, however, that that visual visual experiences experiences may may also also

*This *This study study concerns concerns itself itself strictly strictly with'discernable with'discernable visual visual characteris­

of of special special interest, interest, often often periodically periodically or or seasonally.* seasonally.*

areas areas for for caribou, caribou, natural natural salt salt licks, licks, and and similar similar places places are are

routes routes of of wildlife, wildlife, coastal coastal bird bird and and mammal mammal colonies, colonies, gathering gathering

8. 8. Large Large scale scale or or striking striking evidence evidence of of wildlife. wildlife. Mi.gration Mi.gration

natural natural forces--i.e., forces--i.e., not not visibly visibly altered altered by by human human activities. activities.

7. 7. Visual Visual appearance appearance of of terrain terrain apparently apparently affected affected only only by by 3. Pavlof Volcano from surrounding valleys and hills on the lower Alaska Peninsula, or from the seas far to the north or south. (From a much smaller perspective, Aniakchak Caldera is seen to be a miniature enclosed world from the point of view of the observer within.)

4. Denali looming far above its Alaska Range neighbors across Wonder Lake, from the Kantishna Hills, or from many other close and distant viewing points.

5. Chitistone-Nizina Canyons with their stratified light-colored enclosing walls, dominating all views except for slot-like vistas of the mountains beyond.

6. The lone Pinnacle of Mount Saint Elias rising far above the glaciers which extend upward from Icy Bay.

7. Series of round, smooth, evenly-trending ridges, with their narrow intervening valleys, seeming to roll like waves to the horizon, such as the Nulato Hills in the Andreafsky watershed.

8. The unity and austere grandeur of the winding Tracy Arm fiord, with smooth near-vertical rock walls and a narrow swath of saltwater flooring the immense defile.

Significant features and special places

Many of the visual units, especially in mountain and coastal regions, possess striking features. See discussion of Special Places, which illustrates how such features can create a powerful visual image.

Outstanding sequences

l. The float down the Kisaralik River from a cirque in the Tikchik Mountains, across rolling tundra uplands, through raptor-inhabited I I canyons cutting through the Kilbuck Mountains, then along narrow channels beside innumerable ponds where ducks and swans nest, into the Kuskokwim Delta.

___ I 2. The traverse, via large lakes, short connecting streams, and portages through the Tikchik and Wood River lakes system, with wooded plains ,_j on one side and glacier-carved mountains on the other.

J 3. The Chitistone Pass traverse from the semi-arid White River basin, beside large glaciers and through deep Chitistone Canyon, into the expansive, mountain-flanked, alder-covered Chitina Valley.

4. Float travel down the enormous Copper River canyon, from interior birch woods, down a wide steep-walled defile cutting through the high coastal mountains, past calving-glaciers, and into flats rich in waterbirds and rimmed by coastal rain forest.

11 3. Lower Koyukuk River constantly cutting snake-like curves in one place, yet slicing across such curves in another, leaving visible traces in an expansive pattern of oxbows and meander lakes.

4. Upper Chitina Valley, where ~lides and other mass-wasting constantly occur along the rimming mountains, and where the river deposits -, silt and gravel over its mile-wide bed, yet with its main current I in places cutting into forested valley sides beyond its bed's previous edge.

5. On the Copper River Delta, the large amount of annual outbuilding, as well as the continuing rearrangement of the ocean-bordering spits by longshore currents.

6. Hubbard Glacier calving steadily into Disenchantment Bay, yet c- ' seeming to advance inexorably toward a blockage' of tributary Russell Fiord.

7. Muir Inlet in Glacier Bay, where the bay-head glacier is rec'eding hundreds of yards annually as it has been for centuries, with the various successional stages of returning vegetation visible in sequence down the bay.

Terrain appearing unaltered

Virtually all of the units visually appear to have been affected almost solely by natural forces, although the rate of human-caused change in this situation is accelerating.

Striking evidence of wildlife

l. The annual post-calving concentrations of the Porcupine Caribou Herd in favored Arctic lowland valleys in the northern Arctic Wildlife Range from the Canning to the Kongakut Rivers.

2. Migrating concentrations of caribou through key passes in the Brooks Range such as Howard Pass connecting the Arctic foothills with the Noatak, accompanied by their predators such as the wolf.

3. Large numbers of ducks, geese, swans, and cranes in fall flight, concentrated in favored lakes and wet meadows on the Yukon Flats. - 1 -_j 4. Moose concentrations in winter within sheltered willow-rich river bottoms such as along the Koyukuk.

5. High sea cliffs such as the Fox Castles on St. George Island of the Pribilofs, where apparently over a million seabirds swarm and nest annually, as well as large harems of fur seals on the adjacent bouldery coastlines.

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Islands Islands

Mainland Mainland

Southeast Southeast Alaska Alaska

Islands Islands

Mainland Mainland

Northern Northern Gulf Gulf

VI. VI. Gulf Gulf of of Alaska Alaska Coast Coast (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: coastal coastal forest) forest)

Cook Cook Inlet Inlet (upper (upper portion) portion)

Coastal Coastal Ranges Ranges - north north slopes slopes J J

Wrangell Wrangell Mountains Mountains

Alaska Alaska Range Range (includes (includes J J Talkeetna Talkeetna Mountains) Mountains)

v. v. Pacific Pacific Mountain Mountain System System (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: boreal boreal forest) forest)

Aleutian Aleutian Islands Islands I I

Alaska Alaska Peninsula Peninsula (including (including Unimak Unimak Island) Island)

IV. IV. Aleutian Aleutian Range Range (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: high high brush, brush, tundra) tundra)

Coastal Coastal influence influence

Interior Interior --! --!

I I Lowlands Lowlands

Southwestern Southwestern

Western Western

Eastern Eastern

Highlands Highlands

III. III. Interior Interior (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: boreal boreal forest) forest)

South South Slope Slope (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: boreal boreal forest) forest)

North North Slope Slope (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: tundra) tundra)

II. II. Brooks Brooks Range Range

Islands Islands

Lowlands Lowlands

Uplands Uplands

Western Western

Lowlands Lowlands

Foothills Foothills

Arctic Arctic

I. I. Tundra Tundra Lowlands Lowlands (predominant (predominant vegetation: vegetation: tundra) tundra)

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prominent prominent divisions divisions listed listed below.· below.·

small small inset inset map map of of Physiographic Physiographic Divisions Divisions on on Map Map l l shows shows only only the the more more

Stenmark, Stenmark, and and the the Land Land Use Use Planning Planning Commission Commission ecosystems ecosystems map. map. The The

visual visual characteristics. characteristics. They They are are adapted adapted from from the the work work of of Wahrhaftig, Wahrhaftig,

These These physiographic physiographic divisions divisions are are delineated delineated strictly strictly on on the the basis basis of of

Location Location

variables variables of of location, location, relief, relief, and and landform landform are are described described as as follows: follows:

I I the the same same degree degree of of relief, relief, and and (3) (3) they they have have the the same same landform. landform. The The

are are located located in in the the same same physiographic physiographic division division of of Alaska, Alaska, (2) (2) they they have have

I I visual visual characteristics. characteristics. Areas Areas of of the the same same an~ an~ character character type type (l) (l) they they if if

contiguous contiguous unit unit of of clearly clearly interrelated, interrelated, uniform, uniform, or or consistently consistently similar similar

An An area area of of a a particular particular visual visual character character type, type, as as shown shown on on Map Map l, l, is is a a

ALASKA ALASKA LANDSCAPE LANDSCAPE CHARACTER CHARACTER TYPES TYPES

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I I ' ' ~edimentary (depositional) mountains. S Mountains of ~edimentary rocks, in some cases lightly metamor- phosed. ~ ' I Sv Valleys and troughs exceptionally wide, in above type. Sr Ruggedly glacier-carved sedimentary mountains. Se Ruggedly ~roded sedimentary mountains, predominantly limestone.

l I yolcanic mountains or lava flows, of single type or with other types of mountains. V Volcanoes and lava flows. Vo Irregular volcanic islands or uplands with outcrops. Vi Volcanoes with igneous intrusive mountains.- Vs Volcanoes with ~edimentary and layered metamorphic mountains.

Glacial 'I '-1 G Glacier and icefield dominated environments.

River-shaped topography and riparian zones. - R River dominated environments.

Coastal landscapes. Note that only selected types of coastlines and coastal landscapes which are particularly distinctive have been delineated. Others are considered to be merely the edges of the types of landscapes adjacent to them', for the purposes of this study. Cm Coastal marshes, spits, and low islands. Cb Beach and forest coast. Ci Bay and inlet coast. j Cs Bay and inlet to fiord coast set into banded ~edimentary rocks, in many cases mixed with volcanic rocks. Cf Fiord coast. Og Fiord coast set into sheer granite (Ig) mountains .

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elevations. elevations. high high relatively relatively at at ' '

some some mountains, mountains, the the separating separating troughs troughs and and gaps, gaps, valleys, valleys, walled walled

steep­ generally generally flat-bottomed, flat-bottomed, wide wide very very except except (S) (S) to to Similar Similar Sv Sv

contorted. contorted. frequently frequently cases, cases, many many

in in visible visible bedding bedding or or Layering Layering passes. passes. 'and 'and valleys valleys traversible traversible

__ __ ) ) , , by by penetrated penetrated cases cases many many in in locally, locally, remaining remaining glaciers glaciers some some

with with glacier-carved, glacier-carved, heavily heavily usually usually rocks, rocks, sedimentary sedimentary in in Ranges Ranges S S

j j subtype. subtype. important important an an domes domes glacial-rounded glacial-rounded and and walls walls exfoliated exfoliated

smooth smooth of of Massifs Massifs granitic. granitic. generally generally common,; common,; walls walls and and faces faces

______) _) . . with with extensively, extensively, more more or or I I locally locally remaining remaining glaciers glaciers with with carved, carved,

glacier­ heavily heavily rock, rock, cliff-forming cliff-forming resistant resistant massive massive in in Ranges Ranges Ig Ig

,,, ,,,

' ' glaciers. glaciers. valley valley and and snowfields, snowfields, peaks, peaks,

and and ridges ridges sharp sharp with with glaciated, glaciated, heavily heavily ranges, ranges, rugged rugged Very Very Ir Ir

passes. passes. and and valleys valleys traversible traversible by by penetrated penetrated

cases cases many many in in locally, locally, remaining remaining glaciers glaciers with with glacier-carved, glacier-carved,

heavily heavily usually usually rocks, rocks, volcanic volcanic or or crystalline crystalline softer softer in in Ranges Ranges I I

slopes. slopes. facing facing north north

on on particularly particularly conspicuous, conspicuous, be be may may glaciation glaciation of of effects effects Local Local

present. present. be be may may outcrops outcrops erosional erosional thawing; thawing; and and freezing freezing and and frost, frost,

perma­ water, water, moving moving by by erosion erosion of of forces forces by by affected affected primarily primarily

valleys, valleys, steep-sided steep-sided narrow narrow with with often often mountains, mountains, rounded rounded Generally Generally M M

canyons. canyons. dissected dissected and and

plateaus, plateaus, summits, summits, flat flat relatively relatively featuring featuring areas, areas, canyon canyon and and Mesa Mesa Em Em

mountains. mountains. Higher Higher 4. 4.

mountains. mountains. or or rocks rocks

volcanic volcanic with with mixed mixed cases cases many many in in slopes, slopes, and and cliffs cliffs of of layering layering

and and banding banding showing showing mountains, mountains, low low into into set set coast coast inlet inlet and and Bay Bay Cs Cs

mountains. mountains. crystalline crystalline carved carved interspersed interspersed with with deltas, deltas, and and glacier~ glacier~

estuaries estuaries islands, islands, barrier barrier spits, spits, forest, forest, and and beaches beaches with with Coast Coast Cb Cb

islands. islands. on on cases cases many many in in mountains, mountains, low low into into set set coast coast Fiord Fiord Cf Cf

----- islands. islands.

on on cases cases many many in in mountains, mountains, low low into into set set coast coast inlet inlet and and Bay Bay Ci Ci

hills. hills. or or mountains mountains low low through through cutting cutting bottoms bottoms river river Major Major R R

predominates. predominates.

evidence evidence volcanic volcanic which which within within bedrock bedrock stratified stratified or or Volcanoes Volcanoes V V

glaciation. glaciation. by by shaped shaped predominantly predominantly Bedrock Bedrock I I

uplands. uplands. gentle gentle on on spaced spaced widely widely mountains mountains of of Ranges Ranges Ms Ms

elevation. elevation. in in trend trend sloping sloping with with Ridges Ridges Mt Mt

water. water. flowing flowing by by dissected dissected significantly significantly Bedrock Bedrock Mw Mw

contorted. contorted. frequently frequently cases, cases, many many in in visible visible bedding bedding or or

layering layering metamorphosed, metamorphosed, partially partially some some rocks, rocks, sedimentary sedimentary in in Ranges Ranges S S

(S). (S). in in described described character character the the of of clusters clusters

localized localized by by surmounted surmounted cases cases some some in in horizon, horizon, the the to to reaching reaching

formations formations

regular regular extensive extensive often often hills, hills, of of ranges ranges Rounded Rounded M M ! !

deposits. deposits. consolidated consolidated poorly poorly of of dissection dissection major major - Badlands Badlands Eb Eb

mountains. mountains. gentle gentle otherwise otherwise in in features features eroded eroded strikingly strikingly

as as or or bluffs, bluffs, and and rivers rivers along along predominately predominately either either sures, sures,

expo­ erosional erosional rugged rugged with with land land mountainous mountainous to to flat flat Relatively Relatively Eo Eo

hills. hills. and and mountains mountains 3.,Lower 3.,Lower DISTRIBUTION OF ALASKA LANDSCAPE CHARACTER TYPES

This table combines all three variables used to define landscape character type: location, relief, and landform. Categories of relief are: (1) plains and lowlands; (2) gentle uplands; (3) lower mountains and hills; (4) higher mountains; (5) very high mountains. Landform categories are described beginning on page 16.

Location by Region

Landform Tundra Brooks Aleutian Pacific Gulf Type Lowlands Range Interior Range Mountains Coast

F 1 1 Fp 1,2 2 1,2 2 Fo 1 F 1 1

Eo 2 3 El 2 Er 2 2 Eg 2 Eb 3 Em 4

M 2,3 2,3 2,3,4 Mw 3 Mt 2 2 2 2,3 Ms 3 3 3 Mb 2

I 2,3,4 2,3,4 3,4 4 Ir 4 4 4 4,5 4,5 I 4 4 l ! s 3 3,4 4 Sv 4 Sr 4 Se 4

v 2 3,4,5 5 3 Vo 2 Vi 5 5 Vs 5

G 4 4

R 1 2 2 3 4 4

. J' Cm' 1 1 Cb 1,2,3 Ci 2,3,4 3 I Cs 3,4 . ' Cf 3 2,3,4,5 c 4

21 5. KILLIK: Fa~rly small, flowing through very wide, steep~walled mountain valley, then across higher foothills into Colville. Moderately clear, slightly glacial-influenced. Flow extremely variable, turbid at high water. Much of upper portion very slow with pond-like segments, through primarily consolidated sand dunes. .I Foothill portions rather fast flowing with bouldery rapids where successive moraines are crossed. Very high bluffs at intervals in foothill section. Tundra, except high brush on gentler bluffs, within which parts of lower valley are constricted. l 6. NOATAK: Fairly large, flowing west between lower ridges of Brooks Range to sea; in places in narrow valley, more generally in very broad basin. Two short canyons. Moderately clear, slightly glacial­ influenced; flow rather variable, turbid at higher water. Crosses tundra with scattered spruce stands along lower portion beneath tundra uplands. Moderately slow, except for moraine-related somewhat rapid sections in upper portion. Small delta with whistling swans , seasonally visible. i 7. KOYUKUK NORTH FORK: Fairly small, flowing between steep rugged mountains of southern Brooks Range in rather narrow valley, then in broader valley rimmed by more rounded mountains, to junction of main Koyukuk. One very rugged deep canyon in upper part. Tundra on hills and along upper-most part, grading into boreal forest to south. Moderately clear except at high water, slightly glacial­ influenced. Portions quite rapid, becoming moderately rapid to more gentle in lower segment. 8. ALATNA: Fairly small, flowing south through Brooks Range, foothills, the flat plains to Koyukuk. Generally clear except at high water, slightly glacial-influenced. Uppermost portion tundra, with brush along river, entering boreal forest in middle portions, and forest to open muskeg along lower segment. Fairly narrow mountain valley, becoming enclosed by high rugged rock-rimmed mountains in middle portion. Most of river very slow and meandering, even through much of mountain portion. 9. KOBUK, UPPER: This portion fairly small, flowing from large Walker Lake through very broad valley bordered by low mountains. Generally clear. Sparse to densely wooded spruce forests. Flow rather gentle except heavy rapids in two short sinuous canyons, one through lava flow. 10. SALMON: Small, flowing south through Brooks Range, into Kobuk _I across marshy lowland. Very clear, except at higher water. Upper portion tundra and willow brush, with patches of spruce forest and scattered tundra along lower portion. Pond-filled wetlands near mouth. Rather narrow valley through fairly steep but lower mountains for most of its course. Steady current but usually gentle, occasional rapids and pools. Jade flakes give vivid color to river environment .J in places. 11. KUZITRIN: Small, flowing from low rounded mountains, across marshy flats, into network of sloughs, then into saltwater lake. Water­ birds much 'in evidence. Rugged low mountains to southwest.

23 I

-_- .i turbid. Many bars and slough. High willow and cottonwood along river, boreal forests adjacent. Gentle, though steady strong current, quite dramatic at breakup. Strikingly scenic bluffs and palisades at intervals along each bank, some with contorted finely­ layered rock strata, others with jagged low pinnacles. 20. CHARLEY: Relatively small, going from fairly high rounded hills, across strongly rolling uplands, through a succession of narrow I canyon-like segments into gentle plain leading into the Yukon. Succession of high rocky bluffs on alternating sides of river. Exceptionally clear. Generally tundra in upper portion, boreal forest with moist tundra benches and rqcky shorelines. Succession of moderate rapids for most of length. 21. CHILIKADROTNA: Fairly small, heading in large lake at edge of Chigmit Mountains, flowing across foothills region of flat bottom­ land. River is rimmed by scattered, low, rounded hills. Subalpine _---i woodland at upper end, boreal forest and muskegs in valley, birch woods on slopes, tundra on hilltops. Quite rapid, with nearly constant though moderate rapids for entire length to junction with Mulchatna. Very clear, with hint of blue-green from the glacial flour-tinted Twin Lakes at head. 22. CHISANA: Rather large turbid glacial river, forming one of two upper branches of the Tanana, above junction with Nabesna. Flows north from Chisana glacier at edge of Wrangell Mountains, across wooded plain, then knives through Nutzotin (Alaska) Range through rather narrow rock-palisaded canyon, then crosses foothills and extensive Tetlin Flats with many ponds. Boreal forest. Fast­ moving but few rapids, though some areas of turbulence. Wide river bottom with gravel and mud bars. 23. BEAVER CREEK OF WRANGELLS: Fairly small, flows across fairly narrow valley between mesa-like mountains of northern Wrangells and rather rugged edge of Nutzotin Mountains. Generally clear, with moderate glacial influence, muddying water at times of peak glacial melt. Tundra on upper portions, across subalpine parkland in middle portions, then into Canada through boreal forest before joining White River. An east-flowing river contained within the mountains, quite rapid with one canyon. Bluffs frequent along lower portion. 24. DELTA: Fairly small and clear in upper portion, where it joins a

I series of lakes in rolling subalpine hills, becoming larger and 'I c~ turbid from glacial tributaries where it crosses northward in a deep narrow valley through the eastern Alaska Range, passing close J '· to Black Rapids Glacier, then crossing a sloping interior plain to the Tanana. Boreal forest except willow and tundra near head. J Moderate rate of flow with quite rapid sections. High mountains close to middle portion. j 25. SUSITNA: Very large glacial river, very turbid, emerging from glaciers at the south edge of the Alaska Range high peaks. Cuts deeply into a high rolling plateau, with rock-walled canyons. Lower down, becomes braided with clay bluffs and mud banks, until

25

27 27

height. height. considerable considerable of of walls walls

granite granite smooth smooth near-vertical near-vertical by by enclosed enclosed valley valley of of Much Much sides. sides.

both both on on mountains mountains round-topped round-topped high high with with valley, valley, U-shaped U-shaped floored, floored,

flat­ Wide Wide beyond. beyond. forest forest conifer conifer coastal coastal dense dense bottoms, bottoms, along along

groves groves cottonwood cottonwood Tall Tall areas. areas. Braided Braided flow. flow. steady steady turbulent turbulent

too too not not but but fast fast very very with with stream, stream, glacial glacial turbid turbid Medium-sized Medium-sized

Alaska. Alaska. Southeast Southeast of of end end southern southern at at Canada Canada from from Enters Enters UNUK: UNUK: 39. 39.

background. background. in in mountains mountains

bold bold but but Low Low reached. reached. is is Strait Strait Chatham Chatham before before flow, flow, reversing reversing

with with channels, channels, river river saltwater saltwater virtual virtual of of miles miles flow flow which which beyond beyond

mouth, mouth, near near forest forest spruce spruce grassy grassy Open Open segments. segments. canyon canyon rocky rocky

_j _j

several several edge; edge; water's water's to to right-up right-up forest forest coastal coastal heavy heavy with with valley valley

gentle gentle in in Partially Partially falls. falls. and and rapids rapids with with alternating alternating sections sections

gentle gentle Fairly Fairly Bay. Bay. Mitchell Mitchell on on saltwater saltwater to to Island Island Admiralty Admiralty on on

Lake Lake Hasselborg Hasselborg from from flowing flowing stream, stream, clear clear short short Very Very HASSELBORG: HASSELBORG: 38. 38.

_j _j

banks. banks. Low Low behind. behind.

looming looming mountains mountains coastal coastal 'high 'high with with Yakutat, Yakutat, Near Near throughout. throughout.

channel channel single single short; short; Very Very abundant. abundant. and and visible visible steelhead; steelhead;

including including Fish, Fish, current. current. steady steady with with though though Gentle, Gentle, forest. forest. Coastal Coastal

marshes. marshes. and and beach beach Ocean Ocean Pacific Pacific to to lake lake headwaters headwaters from from lands lands

low­ across across flowing flowing river, river, coastal coastal clear clear very very small small Quite Quite SITUK: SITUK: 37. 37.

seen. seen. often often are are concentrations concentrations swan swan trumpeter trumpeter where where mound mound

high high a a beneath beneath lies lies lake lake a a junction, junction, Near Near River. River. Copper Copper enters enters

where where dunes dunes Sand Sand bars. bars. gravel gravel and and silt silt with with gentler gentler somewhat somewhat

portion portion Lower Lower banks. banks. onto onto piles piles water water where where turns turns sharp sharp with with walls, walls,

rock rock low low narrow narrow between between contained contained places places many many in in rapid, rapid, ingly ingly

exceed­ River River ponds. ponds. many many with with benchlands benchlands and and terrain terrain hummocky hummocky of of

Valley Valley forest. forest. rain rain coastal coastal into into grading grading head, head, near near forest forest boreal boreal

brushy brushy vegetation, vegetation, Transitional Transitional Mountains. Mountains. Chugach Chugach the the of of peaks peaks

ice-hung ice-hung high high by by rimmed rimmed valley valley mountain mountain wide wide fairly fairly deep deep a a through through

west west glaciers, glaciers, from from flowing flowing river, river, glacial glacial turbid turbid Very Very BREMNER: BREMNER: 36. 36.

Peninsula. Peninsula. Alaska Alaska central central on on south south

Flows Flows flow. flow. of of rate rate steady steady though though rapid rapid Very Very lava. lava. and and ash ash of of

influence influence beyond beyond predominant predominant grasses grasses Tall Tall coast. coast. Pacific Pacific along along beach beach

to to down down uplands, uplands, covered covered tundra tundra and and willow-alder willow-alder across across Gates, Gates,

The The slot, slot, cliff-rimmed cliff-rimmed through-deep through-deep emerging emerging Caldera, Caldera, Aniakchak Aniakchak in in

beginning beginning stream, stream, small small rather rather clear, clear, moderately moderately Short Short ANIAKCHAK: ANIAKCHAK: 35. 35.

Peninsula. Peninsula. Alaska Alaska upper upper On On north. north. to to Bay Bay Bristol Bristol into into

lowland lowland tundra tundra wet wet over over then then upland, upland, gentle gentle across across Range Range Aleutian Aleutian of of

edge edge from from tundra, tundra, dry dry across, across, flow. flow. gentle gentle Fairly Fairly valley. valley. open open broad broad

through through flowing flowing influence influence glacial glacial some some clear, clear, Fairly Fairly SALMON: SALMON: KING KING 34. 34.

-l. -l.

bluffs. bluffs. rock rock

to to gravel gravel of of areas areas occasional occasional terraces, terraces, higher higher between between bench bench narrow narrow I I

into into inset inset places places In In rapids. rapids. sharp sharp constant constant with with clear, clear, Very Very

forest. forest. boreal boreal and and tundra tundra maritime maritime between between transitional transitional vegetation vegetation J J

and and nearby, nearby, mountains mountains higher higher with with uplands, uplands, hilly hilly Mainly Mainly Coville. Coville.

Lake Lake into into valley valley wide wide across across flowing flowing ve~y ve~y Range, Range, Aleutian Aleutian of of edge edge

at at lakes lakes in in starting starting river river small small short, short, Fairly Fairly CREEK: CREEK: AMERICAN AMERICAN 33. 33.

forest. forest. boreal boreal Open Open stream. stream. along along bluffs bluffs rock rock

of of areas areas common, common, outcrops outcrops Rock Rock pools. pools. intervening intervening with with falls, falls, and and

1 1 I I

29 29

rimmed rimmed to to south, south, narrow narrow and and bounded bounded by by cliffs cliffs to to north. north.

other other across across North North Fork Fork Koyukuk Koyukuk valley; valley; opening opening broad broad and and hill­

H. H. GATES GATES OF OF THE THE ARCTIC: ARCTIC: Boreal Boreal Mountain Mountain and and Frigid Frigid Crags Crags face face each each

the the north. north.

sheer sheer bedded. bedded. sidewalls sidewalls of of both both sides sides of of Dietrich Dietrich Canyon Canyon lead lead far far to to ' '

G. G. SUKAKPAK SUKAKPAK MOUNTAIN: MOUNTAIN: Striking Striking cliff-rimmed cliff-rimmed landmark, landmark, from from which which I I

mesas, mesas, and and narrow narrow deep deep gorges gorges in in rolling rolling open open tundra tundra uplands. uplands.

F. F. IGLOO.MOUNTAIN: IGLOO.MOUNTAIN: Area Area of of round-shaped round-shaped scalloped scalloped uplands, uplands, sharp sharp

distant distant horizon. horizon.

_. _. J J

smooth smooth ridge, ridge, with with gently gently undulating undulating uplands uplands and and entrenched entrenched rivers, rivers, I I

E. E. LOOKOUT LOOKOUT RIDGE: RIDGE: In In lower lower Arctic Arctic foothills, foothills, sighting sighting down down very very long long

mountain mountain valley valley far far to to south. south.

portion portion of of Killik Killik Valley, Valley, with with cliff-sided cliff-sided bluffs bluffs and and long long straight straight

j j D. D. PINGALULIGIT PINGALULIGIT MOUNTAIN: MOUNTAIN: Sharp Sharp high high hill hill overlooking overlooking foothills foothills

front front of of Brooks Brooks Range. Range.

J J

expansive expansive vistas vistas similar similar to to western western plains, plains, backed backed by by abrupt abrupt north north

C. C. CASTLE CASTLE MOUNTAIN: MOUNTAIN: Mesa Mesa rising rising above above rolling rolling tundra tundra foothills, foothills,

. J J .

of of Brooks Brooks Range Range . .

out out past past foothills, foothills, looking looking in in at at highest highest most most glacier-clad glacier-clad mountains mountains

B. B. PETERS-SCHRADER PETERS-SCHRADER LAKES: LAKES: Pair Pair of of lakes lakes in in Carnivore Carnivore Valley, Valley, looking looking

vista. vista.

behind behind inclined inclined plains plains and and rolling rolling foothills. foothills. Example Example of of unified unified

which which the the closest closest part part of of the the snowy snowy Brooks Brooks Range Range rises rises steeply steeply

A. A. CAMDEN CAMDEN BAY BAY BEACHES: BEACHES: Spits Spits and and lagoons lagoons bordering bordering Arctic Arctic Ocean, Ocean, from from

IMPORTANT IMPORTANT VIEWPOINTS VIEWPOINTS

entrance; entrance; beach beach at at head. head.

granite granite walls walls laced laced with with waterfalls, waterfalls, roaring roaring tidal tidal torrent torrent at at

w. w. FORDS FORDS TERROR: TERROR: Intimate Intimate though though rugged rugged small small fiord, fiord, with with high high sheer sheer

calving calving into into other other end, end, backed backed by by symmetrical symmetrical peaks. peaks.

warmed warmed to to swimming swimming temperature temperature by by hot hot springs, springs, pair pair of of large large glaciers glaciers

v. v. TWIN TWIN GLACIER GLACIER LAKE: LAKE: Lake Lake tributary tributary to to Taku Taku River, River, with with one one bay bay

and and large large trees. trees.

and and pools, pools, with with fast fast currents, currents, subtidal subtidal life, life, meadows, meadows, luxuria~t luxuria~t

u. u. KOOTZNAHOO KOOTZNAHOO INLET: INLET: Intricate Intricate maze maze of of shallow shallow rocky rocky saltwater saltwater channels channels

bold bold rock rock outcrops. outcrops.

small small islands islands separating separating passage passage from from the the ocean ocean on on the the other, other, with with

between between meadows meadows and and forested forested mountains mountains on on one one side, side, and and a a string string of of

T. T. WEST WEST CHICHAGOF CHICHAGOF INNER INNER PASSAGE: PASSAGE: Lengthy Lengthy reach reach of of bays bays and and channels channels

at at head. head. · ·

glaciers glaciers slide, slide, and and triad triad of of pinnacled pinnacled high high ice ice peaks peaks above above glacier glacier

ultimate ultimate in in austere austere glacial glacial landscapes, landscapes, with with steep steep walls walls down down which which

s. s. JOHNS JOHNS HOPKINS HOPKINS INLET: INLET: Abundant Abundant seals seals on on iceflows iceflows bring bring life life to to the the

with with very very evident evident remains remains of of historic historic human human passage. passage.

I I

rounded rounded mountains mountains and and glaciers, glaciers, between between coast coast and and piney piney interior, interior, ., .,

R. R. CHILKOOT CHILKOOT PASS: PASS: Steep Steep passageway passageway between between steep-walled steep-walled glacially­

of of rain rain forest, forest, muskeg, muskeg, and and rock rock exposure. exposure.

between between Prince Prince William William Sound Sound islands, islands, with with sea sea otters otters and and patchwork patchwork

Q. Q. BAINBRIDGE BAINBRIDGE PASSAGE: PASSAGE: Narrow Narrow long long saltwater saltwater channel channel with with fast fast currents currents I I l slopes of Blackburn looming above it all, seemingly quite close behind. v. NIKO~I RIDGE: Flat gravelly ridge, the platform from w,hich to peer down the Mile High Cliffs of Nizina Canyon, and far up the deep trench of Chitistone Canyon, with high snow mountains surround­ I ing them. Perhaps the classic canyon-rim viewpoint of Alaska. w. RIDGE ABOVE CANYON CREEK: Low mountain ridge separating the wet l meadows and Big Bend Lakes of the open·basin to west, a large grassy basin to north, snow peaks to east, looking south down into the slot of the very deep narrow twisting gorge of Canyon Creek in the Wrangells. X. ROCK MOUND OVERLOOKING MATANUSKA GLACIER: Bold rounded bedrock outcrop above Glenn Highway, from which one can peer far up the Matanuska Glacier to the blocking high mountain wall behind, and up and down the road-traversed narrow valley of the Matanuska River and colorful ridges beyond. Y. PANORAMIC PEAK OF GRANITE MOUNTAIN: To north across rough low foothills and wet plains, to west toward Mount Hayes, and nearer­ to-south, Alaska Range at Mount Sivertip, across high gentle plateau. Z. RIDGE OVERLOOKING BLACK RAPIDS GLACIER: Delta River valley and Richardson Highway to east, narrow view far up straight gorge of Black Rapids Glacier to west and into snow peaks of Alaska Range. AA. MOLYBDENUM RIDGE: North to lower ridges and canyon of Little Delta River, south across high valley to strikingly-sculpted high peaks 'of Mt. Deborah and Hayes. BB. PARKS HIGHWAY TOWARD DENALI: From south, first broad open vista of Denali and great rock gorges in front of it. · CC. SOUTHWEST RIDGE OF KANTISHNA HILLS: Direct view across Wonder Lake at white ramparts of Denali, and across intermontane valley to south at face of Alaska Range, in contrast to receding hills and lower lands to west. DD. ROOSEVELT HILLS ABOVE CHILCHUKABENA LAKE: From low platform, across lake set into hills, far out over flat pond-flecked plaip., I at wall of high Alaska Range and Denali to south. EE. CASTLE ROCKS: From low granite hills, southeast across flat plain at Denali and Alaska Range. This point, and the two above, are anchors for the extensive vista unifying interior lowlands with the I high wall of snow peaks. This is the type of view which perhaps characterizes Alaska in the minds of visitors, more so than any _j other. It encompasses vast distances, clarity of atmosphere and simplicity of structure. j FF. UP ELDRIDGE GLACIER TO DENALI: Parks Highway view, with rocky pinnacles in middle distance, back toward the distant looming dome J of Denali. GG. BUNCO-SWAN LAKES AND EASTERN PETERS HILLS: Series of viewpoints l with foreground setting of lakes or high valleys, over jagged Tokosha Mountains, up granite-bounded Ruth Glacier Gorge toward Denali and Hunter.

31 j l RR. RUSSELL ISLAND IN UPPER GLACIER BAY: From this rocky island in the middle of the upper widening of Glacier Bay's west arm, appears a scene apparently just emerging from the ice age, with a succession of inlets from wh\ch glaciers flow or are closely seen, with much bare bedrock and talus, and only the scantiest vegetation, with scattered icebergs enlivening the waters. 1 SS. MOUNT RIPINSKI: This low mountain at the head of Lynn Canal provides I a sweeping vista far down the mountain and forest lined rims of this very long straight waterbody at the upper end of Southeastern Alaska. To the west across the Chilkat valley stand the jagged icy Takinska Mountains beyond Haines. TT. DENALI FAULT TRENCH: This viewpoint is indicated at Anderson Pass in McKinley Park, a strategic location for looking far along the fault in either direction. This fault, which actually slices diagonally through the Alaska Range, can be experienced at many other points as well, being a very narrow trench into which glaciers pour, and a narrow vista right through the heart of Alaska's highest mountains.

!

J

I __I

. J

_j

33 Largest aufeis field in Arctic Alaska at Ivishak junction with Saviukviyak River. Abrupt mountain front in Echooka-Ivishak area, among most striking in Brooks Range. 4. KADLEROSHILIK PINGOS: Kadleroshilik Mound is largest pingo in Arctic Alaska, ice-cored mound 190 feet above plain. Near adjacent Kadleroshilik River, excellent array of pingos in all stages of development, strikingly rising from flat Arctic plain, patterned I ground, and thaw lakes. 5. FRANKLIN BLUFFS-WHITE HILLS: White hills, very pale, form isolated plateau 600 feet above Arctic plain, deeply dissected into badlands. To north, Toolik River pingo fields. To east, equally high bluffs along Sagavanirktok River, also eroded into badlands, but here brightly colored. Wildlife often seen, including peregrine falcon. To south along river, excellent examples of braiding in shallow non-glacial stream. ' 6. COLVILLE DELTA: Interlaced system of distributary channels, deltaic deposits, largest area of sand dunes in Arctic lowlands with whistling swans in numbers visible in summer. Simpson Lagoon and islands to east. 7. PIC DUNES: Sand dune fields, lying in odd playa lake, set SO feet below surrounding Arctic plain. Sagebrush. The major Arctic dune system. 8. COLVILLE RIVER BLUFFS: Scattered very high stratified bluffs along lengthy section of Colville River. Contrast of river basin cutting through long even narrow ridges of foothill zone. Dense high willow along slopes, contrasting with tundra elsewhere. Peregrine falcon and other raptors often seen in summer. Ishukpak Bluff the northernmost. 9. ROOFTOP RIDGE: In foothills east of Anaktuvuk River, hogback, very steep on north side. Varied rock types in Racetrack Basin and hills just to north. 10. CHANDLER RIVER MESAS AND HOGBACKS: a. Hatbox Mesa: · Irregular flat-topped mesa rising above upper foothills west of Chandler Lake. One of the most striking arrays of mesas and buttes in Alaska, such as Castle and Fortress Mountains, river bluffs such as Paunagaktuk, Niakogon and Tuktu along the Chandler. Also curious notches in hills such as "The" (Kiruktagiak) Notch north of Chandler Lake.

I Features formed from various sedimentary types; fossils. .J 11. TOPAGORUK ORIENTED LAKES: Just east o'£ Topagoruk River, series of lakes, in all stages of development, oriented in roughly north­ J south axis. 12. IKPIKPUK-OUMALIK POLYGONS: Extensive polygon formations, both high and low, centered west of Oumalik River, oxbow lakes and small

I dunes along river. To the north, sluggish meandering Ikpikpuk _j River with meander scrolls, oxbow lakes, low dunes. 13. TAKRAK ORIENTED LAKES: Outstanding series of mature oriented lakes between Ketik and Meade Rivers, lying on flat plain.

35 From Elusive Lake, set well into the mountains, south to the main divide, the South Fork Ribdon, Accomplishment Creek, upp~rmost Wind River country has narrow valleys and austere rocky mountains with I little vegetation. 21. SMOKE CREEK: An area with rather separate mountain blocks on the I South Slope, local wooded area, and side valleys with ponds.

- I 22. ATIGUN GORGE: A narrow canyon at the north edge of the mountains, I in places a chasm as much as 2000 feet deep, revealing multi­ layered very contorted rock strata, eig~t miles in length. 23. NORTH FORK CHANDALAR AND LAKES: a. North Fork Chandalar Valley: The main valley and a parallel prong just north form deep U-shaped canyons with high steep walls contrasting with the numerous ponds along the valley floors. b. Geroe Creek Cirques: Exceptionally precipitous headwaters of this North Fork tributary, with a great cirque, cliffs, and a few tarns. Squaw, Twin, and Chandalar Lakes set in steep-walled canyons near the south mountain front. Ponds and tarns in the Poss Mountain area southwest of Big Lake. 24. SHAININ LAKE: Fairly large lake in broad U-shaped valley at north front, with rugged gray limestone mountain slope rising abruptly above it, and Mount Wachsmuth distinct from adjacent mountains, protruding onto the foothill lands. 25. GATES OF THE ARCTIC MOUNTAINS: a. Ulo Valley: Valley of the north-flowing Itkillik River, with Itkillik Lake at mouth. Exceptionally striking steep-walled mountains with stata varying from light to nearly black. Isolated cirque-headed side valley to west beneath Cocked Hat Mountain, with pinnacles. b. Mount Doonerak Area: East-west side valley along north side of Doonerak with Kinnorutin Pass set off on both sides by narrow canyons. Gorges and tarn lakes in valleys bounding Doonerak; a horn-shaped peak carved out of dark sedimentary rock, rising above level of adjacent mountains. c. Gates of the Arctic-Ernie Creek: Upper North Fork Koyukuk bounded by two opposite cliff-rimmed peaks, Boreal and Frigid I - J (The Gates), colorful Redstar Mountain to south, Doonerak to east, and Valley of Precipices along Ernie Creek, the continua- tion of same valley to north. · An area of exceptionally sharply glacier-carved slaty rocks, many distinctive peaks, small glaciers. Many tarns at tributary heads along the parallel east-west upper Tinayguk and Anaktuvuk Creek J (Anaktiktok Valley) to the east. 26. CHANDLER LAKES AND HIGH VALLEYS : I a. Chandler-Agiak Valley: Large Chandler Lake set in cliff­ rimmed U-shapped valley near the north front, with a series of lakes to north and south in Chandler and similarly aligned Agiak valleys. At south end, valley system ends at Lonely

37

39 39

craggy craggy peaks peaks with with many many pinnacles. pinnacles.

parts, parts, with with beaches beaches and and bordering bordering meadows, meadows, set set beneath beneath very very

a. a. Selby Selby Lake: Lake: Selby-Narvak Selby-Narvak is is single single lake lake separated separated into into two two

ANGAYUCHAM ANGAYUCHAM HILLS HILLS AND AND LAKES: LAKES:

rocks. rocks. Small Small granite granite area, area, upper upper Igning. Igning.

necting necting passes, passes, narrow narrow valley valley bottoms, bottoms, and and striking striking glacial-scoured glacial-scoured

mountain mountain valleys valleys on on north north side side draining draining into into Noatak, Noatak, with with intercon­

much much smooth smooth bedrock. bedrock. Complex Complex also also includes includes the the three three westernmost westernmost

Includes Includes tributary tributary Ulaneak Ulaneak River River with with pale pale massive massive limestone limestone and and

shades. shades.

rock rock types, types, including including finely finely banded banded cliffs cliffs in in contrasting contrasting

ains ains and and bold bold cliffs cliffs rimming rimming parts parts of of the the valley. valley. Various Various

a. a. Upper Upper Ambler Ambler Canyon: Canyon: U-shaped U-shaped canyon canyon with with rugged rugged lower lower mount­

SCHWATKA SCHWATKA MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS:

Etivluk Etivluk Rivers. Rivers.

evidence evidence of of early early man. man. Lakes Lakes near near passes passes at at heads heads of of Nigu Nigu and· and·

large large numbers numbers of of migrating migrating caribou, caribou, as as well well as as significant significant historical historical

the the upper upper Noatak Noatak drainage drainage from from the the North North Slope. Slope. Traditional Traditional use use by by

block-like block-like mountains mountains at at east east end end of of DeLong DeLong Mountains, Mountains, separating separating

INYORURAK-HOWARD INYORURAK-HOWARD PASSES: PASSES: Series Series of of fairly fairly low low passes passes and and intervening intervening

are are surrounded surrounded by by the the various various sedimentary sedimentary types types described. described.

and and numerous numerous tarns. tarns. The The relatively relatively small small smooth smooth granite granite intrusions intrusions

narrow narrow side side valleys valleys between between Arrigetch Arrigetch and and Igikpak Igikpak have have rock rock faces faces

Takahula Takahula Lake, Lake, set set beneath beneath massive massive pale pale rock rock slopes. slopes. Numerous Numerous

foothills foothills zone. zone. Near Near the the Alatna Alatna well well within within the the mountains mountains lies lies

the the orange orange of of the the birches birches and and the the deep deep green green of of the the spruces, spruces, in in the the

sections sections of of the the forest, forest, where where their their brilliant brilliant hue hue contrasts contrasts with with

the the north. north. In In this this region, region, they they live live on on the the floor floor of of more more open open

subalpine subalpine plants plants elsewhere elsewhere in in Alaska Alaska to to the the south, south, and and disappear disappear to to

bearberry, bearberry, whose whose leaves leaves turn turn a a very very vivid vivid orange-red orange-red in in fall, fall, are are

the the Brooks Brooks Range, Range, offer offer unique unique color color display display in in fall: fall: alpine alpine

Foothills Foothills in in this this area, area, as as presumably presumably elsewhere elsewhere on on south south edge edge of of

lenses lenses and and are are severely severely contorted. contorted.

front, front, thinly thinly layered layered strata strata have have contrasting contrasting dark dark and and light light

to to side side in in curious curious contrast contrast to to the the rugged rugged walls. walls. Near Near south south

smooth smooth rock rock faces. faces. The The blue blue Alatna Alatna meanders meanders gently gently from from side side

by by pale pale pastel-colored pastel-colored sedimentary sedimentary rocks rocks with with many many exposed exposed

Fork Fork is is a a wide wide U-shaped U-shaped extremely extremely steep-walled steep-walled valley, valley, bounded bounded

d. d. Alatna Alatna valley: valley: Section Section from from Arrigetch Arrigetch Creek Creek nearly, nearly, to to Malamute Malamute

glaciers. glaciers.

contrast contrast sharply sharply with with the the adjacent adjacent walls. walls. Small Small clean clean white white

tarns. tarns. Seasonally Seasonally green green valley valley floors floors and and lack lack of of talus talus

walls walls with with both both spires spires and and narrow narrow reef-like reef-like summits. summits. Abundant Abundant

Igikpak, Igikpak, sculpted sculpted by by ice ice into into massive massive slick-smooth slick-smooth dark dark gray gray

I I c. c. Arrigetch Arrigetch Peaks: Peaks: Another Another area area of of granite granite not not far far east east of of

few few trees trees at at south south end. end.

uriant uriant spruce spruce forest. forest. Very Very open open lichen-floored lichen-floored terrain terrain with with

~hove ~hove 'outcrops 'outcrops northwest northwest shore, shore, contrasting contrasting with with rather rather lux-. lux-.

south south front front of of the the mountains. mountains. Beaches. Beaches. Low Low bold bold hummocky hummocky

b. b. Walker Walker Lake: Lake: A A large, large, long long narrow narrow lake lake entering entering from from the the I I

41 41

lagoons. lagoons. enclosing enclosing

formations, formations, cuspate cuspate of of number number A A above. above. from from pattern pattern striking striking forming forming

bars, bars, and and

spits spits

of of pairs pairs of of series series with with Island Island Lawrence Lawrence St. St. of of J J . .

coast coast south south along along repetition repetition Remarkable Remarkable 48. 48. SPITS: SPITS: AND AND LAGOON LAGOON KOOZATA KOOZATA

tarns. tarns. small small many many and and flows flows J J

lava lava ragged ragged steep-sided; steep-sided; and and fresh fresh cones, cones, small small of of number number large large

including including features, features, volcanic volcanic small-scale small-scale of of Diversity Diversity Island. Island.

Lawrence, Lawrence, St. St. on on volcano volcano shield shield Old Old FIELD: FIELD: 47. 47. VOLCANIC VOLCANIC KOOKOOLIGIT KOOKOOLIGIT

white. white.

·c_J ·c_J · ·

' '

nearly nearly coast, coast, from from inland inland just just Kwiniuk Kwiniuk Mount Mount on on Cliffs Cliffs Marble Marble

northeast·, northeast·, To To Sound. Sound. Norton Norton Bay, Bay, Golovnin Golovnin of of side. side. east east on on Darby Darby

Cape Cape at at cliffs cliffs pale pale high high Very Very CLIFFS: CLIFFS: 46. 46. SWINIUK SWINIUK DARBY-MOUNT DARBY-MOUNT CAPE CAPE

channel. channel. single single

in in flows flows Kuzitrin_River Kuzitrin_River which which through through congregate, congregate, waterbirds waterbirds where where

basin, basin, of of head head at at marsh marsh Tundra Tundra basin. basin. in in reflect reflect peaks peaks Craggy Craggy

petroglyphs. petroglyphs. with with channel channel rock-rimmed rock-rimmed narrow narrow through through sea sea entering entering

estuary estuary large large Basin, Basin, Iinuruk Iinuruk into into south south to to off off break break Mountains Mountains tion. tion.

vegeta­ willow willow and and Tundra Tundra tarns. tarns. and and lakes lakes mountain mountain striking striking Very Very

streams. streams. by by separated separated and and dissected dissected thoroughly thoroughly glacier-carved, glacier-carved,

ruggedly ruggedly very very but but low low Mountains Mountains BASIN: BASIN: MOUNTAINS-IMURUK MOUNTAINS-IMURUK KIGLUAIK KIGLUAIK 45. 45.

creep. creep.

soil soil extensive extensive and and polygons polygons Frost Frost beach. beach. sand sand pale pale with with Lake Lake

Kuzitrin Kuzitrin mountains, mountains, of of base base At At behind. behind. far far ridge ridge a a as as appearing appearing

Mountains Mountains Bendeleben Bendeleben with with lakes, lakes, of of number number a a Border Border vegetation. vegetation.

other other of of patches patches little little with with them, them, on' on' growing growing moss moss and and lichen lichen

with with flows, flows, different different from from lava lava recent recent rather rather of of shades shades Various Various

another. another. one one to to adjacent adjacent flows flows

lava lava uneven uneven rough rough very very but but low low and and tundra, tundra, open open beach, beach, with with

beds, beds, lava lava extensive extensive of of edge edge at at lake lake small small Rather Rather ·Lake: ·Lake: Lava Lava a. a.

BEDS: BEDS: LAVA LAVA IMURUK IMURUK 44. 44.

tops. tops.

ridge ridge along along tors, tors, called called granite, granite, of of pinnacles pinnacles and and protrusions protrusions

rock rock block-shaped block-shaped of of series series castle-like castle-like with with capped capped hills, hills, gentle gentle

by by Surrounded Surrounded springs. springs. bot bot below below valley valley in in turf turf summer summer green green and and

vegetation vegetation willow willow high high Luxuriant Luxuriant TORS: TORS: AND AND SPRINGS SPRINGS HOT HOT SERPENTINE SERPENTINE 43. 43.

permafrost. permafrost. with with interacted interacted

materials materials volcanic volcanic hot hot where where explosions explosions underground underground by by caused caused

lakes lakes Maar Maar landscape. landscape. tundra tundra upland upland rolling rolling gently gently in in banks banks high high

under under deeply deeply set set lakes, lakes, round round perfectly perfectly of of pairs pairs or or groups groups Killeak Killeak

and and Mountain, Mountain, Devil Devil Fish, Fish, White White LAKES: LAKES: EXPLOSION EXPLOSION MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN DEVIL DEVIL 42. 42.

tundra. tundra. open open on on west west to to

conspicuous conspicuous very very swans swans and and cranes, cranes, Loons, Loons, sands. sands. volcanic volcanic blackish blackish

of of west west to to Beaches Beaches size. size. large large of of lagoons lagoons Some Some Krusenstern. Krusenstern.

like like patterned patterned Peninsula; Peninsula; Seward Seward of of rim rim northern northern entire entire the the across across

islands islands barrier barrier and and spits, spits, lagoons, lagoons, of of series series Wales, Wales, of of Prince Prince

Cape Cape to to west west Espenherg, Espenherg, Cape Cape From From BARS: BARS: AND AND INLETS INLETS SHISHMAREF SHISHMAREF 41. 41.

feature. feature. visual visual striking striking a a contribute contribute seasonally seasonally

waterbirds waterbirds Many Many tundra. tundra. and and marsh marsh in in fingers fingers spruce spruce Scattered Scattered . ' I ! volcanic bedrock, forming a series of narrow colorful gorges, through which the dark waters of the river flow smoothly. Howling Dog Canyon, Lower Ramparts also notable. 58. CENTRAL YUKON FLATS RIVER NETWORK: In vicinity of the junction, and proximity of the Yukon, Porcupine, Black, Grass, and Sheenjek Rivers lies an expanse of river-created landscape, with extensive sloughs, meander lakes, oxbows, islands, and similar features. Nesting waterbirds are very noticeable in season. 59. UPPER YUKON RIVER HIGHLANDS: a. Yukon River Bluffs: Between Kathul Mountain and the Charley River, the Yukon has its greatest density of rocky bluffs. b. Ogilvie Mountains-Tatonduk River: Spectacular relief where the narrow partly incised Tatonduk Valley knifes through the Ogilvies, with whitish cliffs lining the valley and gorge segments of the rapid clear river. Between Eagle and Toakoma Bluff, the upper Yukon River has cut a series of tock bluffs of diverse rock types. Some are thinly laminated into layers of contrasting shad~s and colors, others are carved into pinnacles,. about which peregrine falcons may be seen. The Ogilvie Mountains, though not high, show one of the most strik­ ing samples of ruggedly-carved limestone topography in Alaska. They reveal sharp crestlines, precipitous slopes, and deep narrow valleys, interrupted by gorges, with areas of red rock, 4000-foot local relief, and. massive cliff-forming sedimentary rocks (after Wahrhaftig). 60. TANANA HIGHLANDS: a. Charley River Bluffs: The middle Charley River exposes a series of .. high rock bluffs on alternating sides of the river, with views of the dome-shaped mountains beyond. The culmination of the Interior highlands occurs in this region, with wave after wave of fairly high but rounded mountains, sur­ mounted locally by sharp cones. An occasional north-facing cirque with tarn, but over most of the range no glaciers have intruded, leaving a topography of smooth-crested summits, even by steep-sided slopes, with streams in narrow V-shaped terraced canyons. Spruce forest and tundra interdigitate with subalpine brush in many loca­ tions. Ridges surmounted in places by granite tors and rock fingers above the general level. Subalpine fall color particularly fine. 61. BEAVER CREEK MOUNTAINS AND BENCH: ·- j a. White Mountains: Inside the bend of upper Beaver Creek, these mountains form a single ridge of limestones and volcanics, J weathering white, and though not high, sculpted by solution and freezing-and-thawing into a remarkable assemblage of J bizarre pinnacles, reefs, glens, and gorges; the ultimate landscape of its type in Alaska. Western edge rises as a I smooth uplift of bare bedrock from the edge of Beaver Creek. Beaver Creek is fairly small, very clear, with many bluffs and rock outcrops along its upper portion, meandering near its mouth into the Yukon Flats. Series of ridges with isolated higher summits

43 70. KOBUK SAND DUNES-LICHEN WOODLANDS: Extensive area of un~onsolidated wind.~ shaped high sand dunes, bordered and cut by small streams and springs. Scattered groves of small cottonwoods in swales on dunes, spruce bordering streams, tundra-covered low Waring Mountains on south side, large slow Kobuk River on north. On adjacent vegetated old dunes, lovely spruce woodland of open-grown trees and pale gray-green forest floor deeply covered with lichens. This area I . I extends far west from the present dunes and is a good example of this woodland type. 71. PURCELL MOUNTAINS: Isolated low range of mountains; with rounded summits. Contains an odd tarn in a north-facing cirque, especially noteworthy for the V-shaped gorges in its mountain valleys. 72. NOGAHABARA SAND DUNES: A small area of active sand dunes at the end of a low mountain ridge, and bordered on the east by the Koyukuk Flats. 73. KAIYUH SLOUGH PONDS: Partially forested wetlands, forming a series of interconnected lakes within the wetlands, where waterfowl can readily be observed. 74. BEAVER MOUNTAINS: An isolated long north-south ridge with spurs, generally rounded but with many tiny tarns and a few glacial lakes. 75. ANDREAFSKY ROtLING HILLS: Portion of the Nulato Hills near Andreafsky River, characterized by very extensive ranges of even parallel­ trending compressed high hills, forming a tightly-patterned land­ scape. Summits even-topped, rounded, giving impression from above of closely-spaced waves. Separated by steep-sided very narrow valleys, with trellis pattern of parallel main streams, and perpen­ dicular to them, other sets of parallel tributary streams. Tundra except for woodlands along lower slopes near streams. 76. MIDDLE KUSKOKWIM CANYON: Gorge 100-400 feet deep incised into much wider older 1000 foot deep valley crossing Kuskokwim Mountains. Major river, partially constricted, though in other places with some side channels. 77. CHUILNUK-KIOKLUK MOUNTAINS: One of the m~st scenic small ranges in the interior, between the Aniak and Holitna Rivers. Each range deeply dissected by tributaries of the Holokuk and other streams into a finger-like pattern of ridges, with tarns and a series of larger glacial lakes inset in the north-facing steep-sided basins. 78. SHOTGUN HILLS: East of the Tikchiks and more heavily glaciated than most small interior ranges, intricately dissected in a radial series of ridges and hub-like drainages, with many tarns.

I 79. AHKLUN MOUNTAINS-WOOD TIKCHIK LAKES: Groups of rugged steep-walled J mountains, having sharp summits, sometimes with needle-like-slate­ gray pinnacles, separated by broad valleys and lowlands. Most i rivers incised into low bedrock gorges in lower parts of their valleys, several in northwest cutting through canyons directly J across ridges (after Wahrhaftig). Most notable for an extensive series of large lakes on the east side, in deep glacial troughs between serrate ridges, actually extending completely through the mountains into the edging lower lands to the west; long beaches at

45

47 47

burn burn looming looming over over all all else. else.

high high black black ridge, ridge, background background great great white white ridge ridge of of Mount Mount Black­

foreground foreground river river rushing rushing from from deepset deepset glacial glacial valley, valley, middle middle

b. b. Kuskulana Kuskulana Canyon: Canyon: Single Single climactic climactic view view from from upper upper valley: valley:

of of two two forks forks sets sets off off entrance entrance to to upper upper valley. valley.

J J

part part of of main main valley. valley. Orange Orange colored colored .peak .peak on on inside inside of of junction junction

colors) colors) along along southeast southeast wall. wall. Long Long Glacier Glacier entering entering lower lower

red red lavas lavas from from layered layered deposits deposits (some (some in in delicate delicate light light

it it separates separates Wrangell Wrangell lavas lavas which which form form northwest northwest wall, wall, with with

a. a. Upper Upper Kotsina Kotsina Canyon: Canyon: Most Most diverse diverse canyon canyon in in Wrangells Wrangells since since

to to mountain mountain front. front.

mountain mountain ridges, ridges, connecting connecting adjacent adjacent canyons canyons by by low low passes passes parallel parallel

alpine alpine basin basin separating separating ridges ridges above above Chitina Chitina Valley Valley from from main main

topped topped to to jagged jagged layered layered black black volcanic volcanic mountains mountains in in front. front. Sub­

toward toward massive massive volcano, volcano, with with Castle Castle Mountain Mountain and and similar similar square­

85. 85. MOUNf MOUNf BLACKBURN BLACKBURN AREA: AREA: Series Series of of deep deep canyons, canyons, mostly mostly wide, wide, leading leading

eroded eroded in in softer softer materials. materials.

various various colors colors included, included, bright bright yellow yellow rhyolite, rhyolite, and and hoodoos hoodoos

colorful colorful compacted compacted mudflows, mudflows, with with a a variety variety of of boulders boulders of of

and and East East Fork Fork of of Chetaslina. Chetaslina. Deep Deep and and very very narrow, narrow, incised incised in in

a. a. Lower Lower Chetaslina Chetaslina Canyon: Canyon: Pair Pair of of canyons, canyons, which which join, join, on on main main

mud mud ponds ponds surmounting surmounting bare bare rises rises on on slopes. slopes.

coloring, coloring, and and major major waterfall waterfall up up Chesnina Chesnina Canyon. Canyon. Bubbling Bubbling warmed warmed

by by series series of of rock-walled rock-walled canyons, canyons, with with much much deep deep red red volcanic volcanic

flat flat on on top. top. Closer Closer to to mountain mountain heights, heights, Wrangells Wrangells deeply deeply incised incised

to to large large high high snowy snowy volcanoes, volcanoes, some some rounded, rounded, some some jagged, jagged, one one quite quite

1 1 from from fringing fringing Copper Copper River, River, inset inset in in steep steep gravel-rimmed gravel-rimmed sidewalls

tionally tionally smooth-appearing smooth-appearing vista vista of of aproned aproned slopes slopes rising rising evenly evenly

84. 84. WESTERN WESTERN WRANGELL WRANGELL MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS AND AND FORELANDS: FORELANDS: Very Very large-scale large-scale excep­

and and in in lower lower stream stream bottoms. bottoms.

eastern eastern skyline. skyline. Open Open tundra tundra except except fringe fringe of of trees trees along along lakes lakes

closer closer jagged-topped jagged-topped layered layered black black volcanic volcanic Tanada Tanada Peaks Peaks forming forming

almost almost at at the the timberline. timberline. Wrangells Wrangells volcanoes volcanoes on on skyline, skyline, with with

sidewalls sidewalls and and alpine alpine lakes. lakes. Two Two large large lakes lakes set set at at base base of of mountains, mountains,

cate cate series series of of deep deep narrow narrow flat-floored flat-floored canyons canyons with with castellated castellated

deep deep rock-ribbed rock-ribbed Jacksina Jacksina Canyon, Canyon, and and interconnected interconnected with with an an intri­

rather rather flat-topped flat-topped benches benches and and high high mesas mesas at at various various levels, levels, cut cut by by

83. 83. JACKSINA JACKSINA MESAS-TANADA MESAS-TANADA LAKE: LAKE: Horizontally Horizontally layered layered landform landform of of

Creek, Creek, cathedral-like. cathedral-like.

spruce spruce forest forest patches patches with with lush lush mossy mossy floor floor along along lower lower Beaver Beaver

in in between, between, Nutzotins Nutzotins bordering bordering closely closely on on north north side. side. Tall Tall open open

parallel parallel to to the the White White River, River, with with clear clear water, water, mesa-like mesa-like mountains mountains

over over Chitistone Chitistone Pass. Pass. Beaver Beaver Creek Creek drainage drainage lies lies north north of of and and

The The above above two two areas areas are are unified unified by by the the natural natural channel channel for for travel travel

with with the the sidewalls sidewalls cut cut by by large large deep deep glacier-floored glacier-floored cirques. cirques.

with with strikingly strikingly layered layered volcanic volcanic rocks, rocks, some some brightly brightly colored, colored,

third third side side of of a a triangular triangular series series of of passages passages is is Sk9lai Sk9lai Basin, Basin,

vistas vistas of of high high precipitous precipitous crystalline crystalline peaks. peaks. Forming Forming the the

tributary tributary gorges. gorges. South South side side valleys valleys of of Chitistone Chitistone frame frame

domes domes and and pinnacles. pinnacles. Similar Similar small-scale small-scale features features in in narrow narrow surrounding Amphitheater Mountains. Large area of rounded bedrock domes and ridges, wet to dry tundra uplands; the upper Delta River flowing through the Tangle Lakes, and Maclaren River pointing straight toward Mount Hayes, separating Clearwater (west) from the Amphitheater (east) Mountains. a. Black Rapids Glacier Trough: Narrow glacier-filled trough hol,ding periodically rapidly-moving glacier, leading the eye straight into high peaks. b. Eureka Basin: Large alpine valley between Amphitheater Moun­ tains and crest of Alaska Range, with low summits, ~treams, and ponds, and overlooks from the south toward the high peaks. 93. TALKEETNA HIGH BENCHLANDS AND LAKES: On northeast edge of Talkeetna Mountains, where steep-sided rather flat-topped ridges, deeply dissected by intricate stream network, grade into high rolling plateau. Several larger mountain lakes and tarns including stair­ step series of lakes down through narrow basins. Oshetna River to Kosina Creek. 94. UPPER MATANUSKA VALLEY AND GLACIERS: Fairly narrow glaciated trough draining southward down Matanuska River, containing exposed bedrock domes to 1000 feet high, many ice-carved bedrock basin ponds, steep high bounding walls contrasting on opposite sides. On the northwest (Talkeetna) side, layered mountains and colorful outcrops with dall sheep often visible. a. Matanuska Glacier: On southeast side of trough, massive crystalline Chugach Mountains are split by huge glacier, leading from dark hummocky snout far up white-floored valley into heart of high ranges. 95. SOUTHWEST TALKEETNA MOUNTAINS: At south end, lush subalpine Hatcher Pass valleys with gentle slopes and angular gray peaks behind. Extensive alpine benches and ridges rising gently east toward jagged rocky peaks, very deeply cut by Kashwitna and Sheep Creeks,· with long gentle main valleys and hanging side canyons with many tarns. 96. SUSITNA RIVER GORGE: Cutting west across northern Talkeetna plateaus, powerful glacial Susitna River has cut deep gorges, the deepest being very steep-walled, extremely narrow, and as much as 1000 feet deep, with the river pounding through it with enormous turbulence, from east to west. 97. NANCY MORAINE LAKES: In Little Susitna Valley just east of the Talkeetnas, Cook Inlet lowlands exhibit extensive stagnant ice I topography, with drumlin fields, eskers, and various sorts of ·. J moral.nal debris. Covered by birch-spruce forest with luxuriant undergrowth, the hummocky topography provides the setting for innumerable ponds and lakes, which are connected in ~he Nancy Lakes area by only short overland gaps. · 98. SWANSON-SWAN MORAINE LAKES: Similar topography to 97, though nearly-connecting system of lakes covers larger expanse. Drained by clear small Swanson River, more bog areas present, and much of the terrain exhibits new growth following extensive fires. Waterfowl

49 c. Denali Fault Slit: The active Denali Fault maintains a narrow trench between the mountain front and the summits, creating passes such as Anderson, from which a vast extent of the fault is visible east and west (the visual unit mapped runs east to the Broad Pass Trough). It is partly occupied by glacial ice. d. Wickersham Wall: One of Alaska's most massive cliffs is the high wall facing northwest from Denali, separated from the ridge to the north by the defile of Peters Basin. The northern side'of the Denali massif is wholly encompassed by the above visual units, plus the immense vista from the Chilchukabena Lake unit. 102. BROAD PASS BASIN-DENALI VIEWS: Long narrow basin between Alaska and Talkeetna Ranges. Long narrow lakes and low hills on floor. Main streams incised in deep rock-walled gorges. Series· of fine views from basin, which Parks Highway follows, across Chulitna River and open spruce woods, up Eldridge Glacier and over high pinnacles in middle distance toward Denali. Tall vertical face of Mount Hunter a striking feature, as well as portions of other crags and glaciers. On east side of basin, bare round hills above Byers Lake provide sweeping views of a similar nature from a higher perspective, with ponds and rock domes in foreground. 103. DENALI GLACIER GORGES: This complex unified Denali, the long glaciers and granite gorges leading from it, the pinnacled Tokosha . I' Mountains at the foot of this segment of the Alaska Range, the fringing foothills, and lowland lakes at the base of the mountains. Three types of vistas are most often experienced. From such lakes in the wooded lowlands as Swan and Bunco, Denali's white ramparts appear over the darker Tokosha Mountains foreground, with a gentle woodland and tundra apron dipping down from them. Just to the west, the northeast edges of the Peters Hills provide a more extended perspective, up the Tokositna and Ruth Glacier Gorges, a relatively close mountain view, but of diverse alpine elements, in contrast to the apparently simpler alpine structure as seen from the Kantishna Hills to the north, where the snow peaks appear to rise almost sheer from the plains. a. Ruth Glacier Gorge: The third view is that from alpine ridges, such as at the head of Alder Creek, where the view is of mile­ high dark granite walls enclosing the white Ruth Glacier, with an amphitheater at the head of The Great Gorge, and the West _:_l' Fork passing along the high face of Mount Huntington, with Mount Hunter looming above. 104. AMOS LAKES-CATHEDRAL BASIN: The Upper Tonzona River unifies foot­ hills and mountains on the northwest side of the Alaska Range. Colorful bare ground of deep reds and other hues is eroded into modest badland topography along Red Paint Creek and the Amos Lakes area. Up the Tonzona is the west facing Cathedral Basin with granite cliffs beneath Heart Mountain. The narrow Tonzona valley upstream to the south dissects rough alpine topography toward the gentle Mystic Pass.

51 -, Tlikakila River canyon. The lakes are all variations on a theme: I Turquoise lies amidst tundra, with an abrupt mountain wall looming above the flats at its head. Lachbuna is in gentler country, with long beaches. Portage is a . deep rich purnlish blue ..i:olor, and lies just above the rim of Tlikakila canyon. The canyon has a navigable I glacial river flowing through it, with the lower canyon composed of two parallel canyon segments, with a high rugged but very narrow island-like mountain ridge separating them. At its head is Lake Clark Pass, which has a small mountain lake, and glaciers from each side coming together to form a jumbled glacial topography. a. North Fork Canyon: A row of massive cliff-sided mountains, with inset glacial cirques, rises sharply above the narrow, partly glacier filled canyon. The narrow floor and immense side walls create a powerful enclosure, leading upward to dark jagged peaks above the main glacier. b. Twin Lakes Valley: A classic set of twin mountain lakes, with rugged peaks on both sides and at the head, and narrow side valleys leading into them. Water, as with many of the lakes in the area, reflects a vivid hue from glacial flour. Gravel beaches are bordered by subalpine woodland, a fringe replaced , at higher.elevations by tundra. Adjacent to the lower lake is an odd mountain of granular finely laminated rock of great diversity of shades, and colors varying from buff to black, giving somewhat the impression of an enormous multi-hued sand dune. c. Tlikakila Canyon: The straight lower portion of this canyon is rather narrow, though flat-floored, and very steeply bounded by pale walls of sheer cliffs and narrowly enclosing mountain rims. 110 . LAKE CLARK: a. Lake Clark-Little Lake Clark: Lake Clark is a large, very long straight lake, with its head in very rugged mountains, with mountains rimming much of its length, and foothills and flats near its foot. Since most of its shoreline is visible from most anywhere along its length, the lake unifies a very large visual unit, a single enclosed but lengthy vista. At its head, separated from the main lake by glacial outwash with a short connecting stream, is Little Lake Clark, rimmed by steep mountains with high escarpments, and a large waterfall ' l in one side valley. b. Kijik Lake and Canyon: Separated from the midpoint of Lake J Clark only by a low mountain is Kijik Lake, rather small, rimmed by narrowly enclosing low but very steep mountain J walls. Large numbers of red salmon can be readily seen spawning __ I in the shallows. Kijik Canyon, above the lake, is a very' windy, extremely narrow slot with a variety of eroded rockforms along its walls. These two visual units comprise the Lake Clark scenic complex.

53 b. Tuxedni Bay: Long bay with side i.nlets, penetrating Chigmits. Partially silted in. Large Chisik Island, with bird cliffs and other promontories and islets, of thinly layered rock structure, the combination providing rugged diverse coastal landscape. c. Tilted Hills Coastal Cliffs: Between Chinitna and Iniskin Bays, coast rimmed by a succession of cuestas and hogbacks dipping gently inland but very steeply seaward. Finely bedded sedimentary rocks, of pale orange to brown, finely textured. Cliffs like the Tilted Hills scattered all along this coast, some with waterfalls cascading down them into the sea. Hickerson Lake with high gray-brown finely layered cliffs, scrubby Sitka spruce (coastal) forest at lower end, waterfalls in side valleys, and slightly steaming Iliamna Volcano looming above lake head. To the north, close views of Redoubt up Drift River valley. Area charac­ terized by heavily silted bays, rocky islets, fine-textured coastal cliffs, scrubby tree stands with high brush, Chigmit Mountains of relatively low heights but craggy tops and many rock exposures, with the two volcanoes looming symmetrically overall. Classic examples of patterned morainal deposits, as at stagnating Red Mountain Glacier from Mount Iliamna, with, unveg~tated debris crossed by narrow arc-shaped bands of raised, heavily vegetated end moraine. 115. EASTERN LAKE ILIAMNA: From Pile Bay area inland and east toward the coast: Intermixture of vegetation elements from boreal forest, maritime tundra, and coastal forest. Two extensive groups of small islands and intricately dissected low larger islands, one at east end of Lake Iliamna in Pile-Pedro Bays, the other in the southeastern part of the lake around Kakhonak and Intricate Bays. Low but humpy with much exposed bedrock, open woodland and brushy tundra. Just west of the Chigmit Mountains south of the east end of Lake Iliamna, chain of long narrow lakes in rolling uplands, but set in bold ' rock-rimmed basins. From one group, the short clear Copper River flows through low gorges, over cascades, and among pools, west into Lake Iliamna. 116. AUGUSTINE ISLAND VOLCANO: A fairly low symmetrical volcano forming an island in lower Cook Inlet. Quite active and steaming .. Orange bluffs in places along coast, and colorful gorges, contrasting with pal~ gray ash forming much of remaining surface. 117. KATMAI LAKES-VALLEY OF TEN THOUSAND SMOKES: a. Kulik Lake Valley: Long narrow lake set into moderate elevation part of Aleutian Range, with high steep bluffs rimming lakeshore. Mountains grayish-purple, coarsely laminated with contrasting shades of light and dark, snow-capped volcanoes beyond head. _)' Many tarns. ; b. Bay of Islands Area: At head of North Arm of Naknek Lake, J cluster of islands and narrow inlets, along with narrow irregu­ lar ponds just inland, primarily brush-covered with scattered trees and much exposed low rounded bedrock.

55 bl. Amber Bay Beaches: Pair of long crescent beaches backed by extensive grassy flats, along heads of twin bays of Amber and Aniakchak. Rocky capes on intervening headlands. Aniakchak River flows navigably though rapids from caldera to beach across ash flows, then lush meadows and brushlands. 122. SEMIDI ISLANDS AND HAYSTACKS. Cluster of small islands well offshore, characterized by vertical, often smooth granite cliffs, haystacks, and spires, in places deeply inset by ocean in gorge-like defiles. Large seabird and sea lion colonies in summer. Uplands rolling and grassy. 123. CASTLE CAPE FIORDS: Intricately scalloped topography south of Chignik, with Castle, Kuiukta, and Devils Bays and very intricately dissected and extremely rugged intervening fiord network. Bedded sedimentary rocks give fine-textured appearance. Pale rock colors and deciduous vegetation make fiords less somber than elsewhere in coastal Alaska. Castle Cape with layered rocks of many hues, and high pinnacles; landmark to sailors. a. Devils Bay: A small inlet, it is virtually enclosed by steep mountain walls which are finely layered and eroded into diverse formations. 124. SHUMAGIN DISSECTED ISLANDS: Similar shoreline pattern to the above, but crystalline rocks predominate. Succession of deep bays and narrow inlets. Vegetation grassland with exceptionally deep luxuriant moss. Sea otters readily seen in numbers. 125. HOODOO LAKE-CANOE BAY: Intricate erosional topography in poorly consolidated rocks surrounding Hoodoo Mountain, with lake in flat basin just beneath. Deeply-gouged cirque lake enclosed by rim of adjacent Mount Dana, beneath which lies nearly enclosed Canoe Bay, with narrow marshes rimmed by steep low mountains. 126. PAVLOF VOLCANO-IZEMBEK LAGOON: a. Cathedral Valley: Long valley, wide below, narrowing near head, rimmed by starkly-eroded cliffs and fluting formed from buttresses of surrounding volcanoes. Northward draining, - ) tundra. b. Izembek Lagoon: Extensive series of Bering Sea coastal lagoons, sheltered by spits and sandy islands, with marshes extending inland. Outstanding viewing area for geese concentrations during migration. Jagged volcanic mountains rise to south and east. , Pavlof is a very high symmetrical volcano, with the addition of a lower cone that stands beside it. Just west across Cathedral Valley stands the lower but needle-topped Aghileen Pinnacles. In I its vicinity stands the much-eroded remnant of a caldera, with _) narrow cliff-sided Emmons Lake filling a segment of it. Pavlof has been recently active. 127. SHISHALDIN VOLCANO-FISHER CALDERA: On large Unimak Island, 9300 foot Shishaldin Volcanoe rises steeply in perfect snow-covered symmetry. Just east and almost totally separated by a low pass stand the contrasting Isanotski Peaks, a volcano whose top has been

57 I '

as Karluk where salmon and the brown bears which feed on them are readily observed. Tangled high brush of alder, devil's club, and salmonberry cover mountains to 2000 feet, but interspered with large meadows and birch parklands on lower slopes in places, and attractive cottonwood groves near stream mouths. I a. Three Saints Bay: A curving rather small narrow fiord on the south side, with a seabird islet near its mouth, and inlet with gravel beach and large intertidal reef. Warmer tone to ,this fiord than to those further east in the Gulf of Alaska, due to the yellow-green hues of the deciduous vegetation and grasses.

GULF OF ALASKA COAST Division (Vegetation: coastal rain forest)

137. NORTHERN AFOGNAK BAYS AND ECOTONE: Along the northwest coast of Afognak Island, the Sitka spruce of the coastal forest opens into lush grassy meadows, and fades into lush grass and brushlands. Topography is a series of long, narrow inlets with bold but often green headlands and irregular shorelines with many islets. Innumer­ able ponds, some shaped like the inlets arid barely separated by intervening lowland. Low mountains near coast, becoming more gentle in the interior of the island. Red Peak low but colorful. Extends from Devil Inlet and Hidden Lake to Malina Bay and Afognak Lake, across the vegetation transition. 138. KACHEMAK BAY: Unique combination of contrasting, though separately common landscapes. Rather wide long inlet, partially enclosed near outer end by long low Homer Spit of gravel. South coast characteris­ tic coastal forest, with coves and low-descending glaciers from Kenai Mountains, of moderate height but extremely rugged crest. On the north side, gravel beaches, gently sloping benchlands, with alternation of boreal spruce woods, birch groves, and an extensive complex at various levels of small to large meadows. Available vista may look through birches, across large flower-filled meadow out over the bay, across at the white glaciers and dark forests fringing the crags bounding the view. 139. KENAI FIORDS: A very compact series of narrow inlets, islands and sea stacks backed by the Kenai Mountains to the north. From the Harding Icefield atop these mountains, glaciers descend steeply into the fiords, some calving i~to tidewater. Rising seawater with respect to the land has drowned the valleys, inundated the bottoms of cirques, and created an extremely intricate scalloped topography which is the best representation of its type on the west coast of I ~orth America. In many cases, adjacent fiords are separated by J curving, ruggedly glacier-carved mountain ridges only a few hundred ,, yards thick. Sparse coastal forest. Seabirds and marine mammals ,._! perhaps visible in greater abundance than in any other major Alaska fiord area except nearby southwestern Prince William Sound. Puffins are particularly common.

59 near outlet of fiord. The most notable characteristic distin­ guishing the fiords in this area from Alaskan fiords elsewQere is the contrasting juxtaposition of tidewater glaciers and fringing high mountains with dark green forests, in some places right up to the glaciers. Kittiwake colony. b. Esther Passage: Narrow passage between Esther Is laRd and mainland, forested near tidewater, but with high granite walls in places, down which fine lacy waterfalls plunge. c. Unakwik Inlet: Long fiord with glacier at head and variou~ small offshoot bays and lakes. Patterned vegetation between patches and stringers of forest and open muskegs covered with sphagnum moss, and coated with tiny but colorful flowers in season. d. Columbia Glacier: Very broad glacier with high seaward face. Great length and breath visible retreating into the higher mountains., Areas of forest approach in places nearly to ice. Heather I~la~d separates inlet into two bays. Glacier Island, very dissected and with hummocky rock outcrops, borders the foot of the bay. Granite Bay on Esther Island also has high cliffs and falls. Muskegs and meadows a'lternate more frequently with dense forest than in most areas in the coastal forest region. Coghill Lake is a partially wooded lake adjacent to College Fiord, its luxuriance contrasting with the cliffs and glaciers just up the fiord. Cascade Bay in Eaglek Bay has several rather large waterfalls, coming from lakes above the bay. Lowland lakes and tarns are abundant in the area. 143. KEYSTONE CANYON GORGES: Just above Valdez, the Lowe River has carved a deep exceedingly narrow slit through the lower edge of the mountains. Several similar tributary gorges are carved on the north side of the river, just upstream from the main canyon. 144. PORT FIDALGO COVES: Three coves cut into the south shore of Port Fidalgo, Two Moon Bay being especially noteworthy. This is an area of isolated abrupt low mountains, separated by expansive gentle topography mostly clothed in muskeg bog, with scattered trees providing variously shaped silhouettes. 145. LOWE~ COPPER RIVER CANYON: A very wide flat-bottomed steep-walled _j canyon winding entirely through the high coastal mountains, the Chugach Range. Wood Canyon, a narrow low gorge where the entire river is narrowly constricted. Very steep alder-covered slopes

; · alternating with rock buttresses and glaciers rise directly 6000- _j 7000 feet above the river. Low sand dune deposits. Two large

'] glaciers, Childs and Miles, calve directly into the river, one in a J lake-like widening, the other in a rapid narrow section. Transition from birch-spruce woods just below Chitina, through long section with heavy brush and the odd cottonwood, to coastal forest at the very lower end. Bears and goats often seen along the river.

61

63 63

and and shoreline, shoreline, in in gaps gaps from from entering entering glaciers glaciers bedrock, bedrock, much much

but but glaciers, glaciers, by by smoothed smoothed terrain terrain austere austere An An West West A~m: A~m: Upper Upper a. a.

bay. bay. up up developed developed

less less successively successively Vegetation Vegetation action. action. glacial glacial intense intense

by by tions tions

i i

eleva­ lower· lower· at at rounded rounded and and bared bared scoured, scoured, heavily heavily all all types,, types,, rock rock

diverse diverse quite quite of of mountains mountains by by riouned riouned and and bedrock bedrock exposed exposed of of largely largely

islands islands including including character, character, distinct distinct own own its its with with each each fiords, fiords,

tributary tributary into into narrowing narrowing bay bay wide wide Rather Rather ARM: ARM: WEST WEST BAY BAY GLACIER GLACIER 154. 154.

_j _j

1 1 bay. bay. of of portion portion upper upper

by by partly partly filled filled one one valleys, valleys, twin twin separating separating syounetrically syounetrically rather rather

bay, bay, into into protrudes protrudes ridge ridge humpy humpy High High arm. arm. west west of of head head at at flat flat

large large for for except except bay, bay, the the rim rim bluffs bluffs steep steep and and bedrock bedrock exposed exposed much much

with with mountains mountains Low Low inlets. inlets. of of number number a a with with bay bay Long Long BAY: BAY: DUNDAS DUNDAS 153. 153.

experience. experience. visual visual sequential sequential in in them them uniting uniting bays, bays,

these these between between feasible feasible travel travel Foot Foot glaciers. glaciers. near near valleys valleys floored floored . .

flat- of of heads heads in in lakes lakes Small Small valley. valley. one one from from flows flows River River Dixon Dixon

beaches. beaches. sandy sandy with with bays bays halfmoon halfmoon deep deep and and headlands headlands bold bold with with

section section transitional transitional a a is is south south to to inlets inlets rocky rocky and and north north to to beaches beaches

the the Separating Separating exten~ive exten~ive BEACHES: BEACHES: AND AND BLUFFS BLUFFS BOUSSOLE-DIXON BOUSSOLE-DIXON 152. 152.

front. front. ice ice by by formed formed forest forest upper upper in in ridges ridges low low Long Long colony. colony.

seabird seabird to to host host is is bay bay in in Island Island Cenotaph Cenotaph Cliff-edged Cliff-edged wave. wave. tidal tidal

massive massive recent recent by by high high feet feet 1700 1700 to to vegetation vegetation of of scoured scoured ridge ridge One One

spits. spits. between between defile defile bouldery bouldery turbulent turbulent a a through through penetrates penetrates which which

Bay, Bay, Lituya Lituya by by entered entered portion portion Central Central jumbles. jumbles. glacier glacier chaotic chaotic

with with filled filled mostly mostly and and line line fault fault a a following following Valley, Valley, Desolation Desolation

is is LaPerouse LaPerouse and and Crillon Crillon of of peaks peaks Range Range Fairweather Fairweather high high and and them them

Between Between mountains. mountains. rocky rocky low low to to leading leading beach, beach, behind behind benchlands benchlands

Forested Forested Glaciers. Glaciers. Fairweather Fairweather and and LaPerouse LaPerouse between between uplift, uplift, recent recent

to to due due wide wide beach, beach, sand sand Extensive Extensive BAY: BAY: COAST-LITUYA COAST-LITUYA FAIRWEATHER FAIRWEATHER 151. 151.

north. north. to to Canada Canada in in basin basin upland upland on on lakes lakes

large large of of series series south; south; to to valley valley rock-bound rock-bound beneath beneath fiord fiord of of vista vista

Pass, Pass, From From side. side. Canadian Canadian from from enter enter birch birch white white and and fir fir subalpine subalpine

which which below below pass, pass, to to leading leading field field boulder boulder Steep Steep floor. floor. valley valley

on on outcrops outcrops huounocky huounocky and and walls walls rock rock glacial-smoothed glacial-smoothed steep steep between between

upstream upstream narrowing narrowing valley valley forested forested Wide Wide VALLEY: VALLEY: PASS-DYEA PASS-DYEA CHILKOOT CHILKOOT 150. 150.

basins. basins. in in set set lakes lakes

small small many many with with hills hills alpine alpine gentle gentle of of portion portion lower lower to to adjacent adjacent

Hills Hills Deception Deception river. river. from from glaciers glaciers over over visible visible south south to to Range Range

Fairweather Fairweather of of suounits suounits High High below. below. flats flats estuarine estuarine Bay Bay Dry Dry into into

and and river, river, the the into into steadily steadily calves calves which which Glacier Glacier Alsek Alsek wide wide mile mile

five­ by by flows flows Then Then border. border. near near peaks, peaks, high high by by in in heouned heouned closely closely

' '

section section Basin-like Basin-like bed. bed. wide wide in in river river glacial glacial fast fast large large Very Very

! ! . . . . in in segment segment Al~ska Al~ska River River Alsek Alsek lower lower of of Portion Portion CANYON: CANYON: ALSEK ALSEK LOWER LOWER 149. 149.

again. again. once once be be soon soon may may and and fresh fresh been been before before have have

but but saltwater, saltwater, presently presently are are which which Fiords, Fiords, Russ.ell-Nunatak Russ.ell-Nunatak the the

are are edge edge right right its its Behind Behind advancing. advancing. slowly slowly is is bay, bay, the the into into

breaking breaking face face wide wide high high very very a a with with Glacier, Glacier, Hubbard Hubbard tains. tains.

moun­ distinctive distinctive high high of of wall wall semicircular semicircular solid solid a a by by riouned riouned

and and glaciers, glaciers, white-fronted white-fronted large large by by bordered bordered basin, basin, floored floored

65 65

animal animal life. life.

tionally tionally luxuriant luxuriant readily readily visible visible subtidal subtidal marine marine plant plant and and

rocky rocky intervening intervening channels channels with with rapid rapid tidal tidal currents; currents; excep­

series series of of salt salt lakes, lakes, meadow-rimmed meadow-rimmed salt salt pools, pools, and and a a maze maze of of

b. b. Kootznahoo Kootznahoo Inlet: Inlet: Draining Draining west west from from Hasselborg Hasselborg River, River, a a

cluster cluster of of steep-sided steep-sided mountains. mountains.

by by lowlands lowlands

with with tall tall forest, forest,

while while the the head head is is rimmed rimmed by by a a -·- J J

i i

a. a. Hasselborg Hasselborg Lake: Lake: Long Long narrow narrow lake lake whose whose lower lower end end is is rimmed rimmed

salmon salmon runs. runs. Humpback Humpback whales whales frequent frequent Seymour Seymour Canal. Canal.

characteristic characteristic of of this this island island can can be be observed observed fishing fishing during during the the

salmon salmon streams streams

such such as as Pack Pack Creek, Creek, where where the the very very dark dark brown brown bears bears j j

Along Along Seymour Seymour portion~. portion~. Canal Canal on on east east shore, shore, series series of of product·ive product·ive

Short Short forest-rimmed forest-rimmed Hasselborg Hasselborg River River has has falls falls as as well well as as gentle gentle

forested forested shores, shores, including including many many very very large large Sitka Sitka spruce spruce giants. giants.

ponds. ponds. A A traversable traversable chain chain of of lakes lakes and and s·treams, s·treams, with with beaches beaches and and

north north and and south south portions, portions, with with rounded rounded wooded wooded ridges ridges and and scattered scattered

wide wide area area of of gently gently rolling rolling uplands uplands between between the the mountains mountains of of the the

161. 161. HASSELBORG HASSELBORG LAKE LAKE CHAIN-PACK CHAIN-PACK CREEK CREEK BROWN BROWN BEARS: BEARS: On On Admiralty Admiralty Island, Island,

among among them them Rezanof Rezanof and and Plotnikof. Plotnikof.

inlets, inlets, in in very very rugged rugged settings settings beneath beneath steep steep glacier-hung glacier-hung peaks, peaks,

of of Whale Whale Bay. Bay. A A cluster cluster of of rock rock basin basin lakes lakes just just south south of of these these

with with shallow shallow turbulent turbulent entrances. entrances. Long Long inlets inlets such such as as Great Great Arm Arm

Baranof. Baranof. Redoubt Redoubt Lake Lake barely barely separated separated from from saltwater. saltwater. Other Other bays bays

but but long long narrow narrow inlets inlets and and lakes lakes in in similar similar basins basins on on west west co'ast co'ast of of

160. 160. SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST BARANOF BARANOF FIORD FIORD COAST COAST AND AND LAKES. LAKES. Series Series of of ocean-exposed ocean-exposed

Red Red rock rock exposure exposure on on bluff bluff near near entrance. entrance.

long long fairly fairly gentle gentle valley valley meandering meandering far far into into the the mountain mountain spine. spine.

east east side side of of southern southern Baranof. Baranof. High High rock rock bluffs bluffs above above the the bay, bay, but but

159. 159. RED RED BLUFF BLUFF BAY: BAY: Particularly Particularly narrow narrow deeply deeply penetrating penetrating fiord fiord on on

may may be be found found in in bay bay of of that that name. name. Small Small glaciers glaciers common. common.

that that fall fall between between levels levels or or directly directly into into saltwater. saltwater. Warm Warm springs springs

lake lake groups groups in in the the descending descending glacial glacial basins, basins, and and striking striking waterfalls waterfalls

Nelson Nelson Bay-Warm Bay-Warm Springs Springs Bay Bay area area are are steep steep rock rock .slopes, .slopes, stair-step stair-step

Archipelago. Archipelago. They They rise rise more more steeply steeply from from the the east east shore. shore. In In the the

Island Island are are higher higher and and more more rugged rugged than than elsewhere elsewhere on on Alexander Alexander

158. 158. EAST EAST BARANOF BARANOF BAYS BAYS AND AND WATERFALLS: WATERFALLS: Mountains Mountains of of southern southern Baranof Baranof

the the area. area.

its its smooth smooth volcanic volcanic form form contrasting contrasting with with mountains mountains within within view view in in

on on Kruzof Kruzof Island Island just just north north of of Sitka. Sitka. Set Set apart apart from from other other mountains, mountains,

157. 157. EDGECUMBE EDGECUMBE VOLCANO: VOLCANO: A A rather rather low low rounded rounded symmetrical symmetrical volcano volcano r1s1ng r1s1ng

Sound. Sound. Goulding Goulding Lakes Lakes chain chain inland. inland.

of of the the Quetico-Superior Quetico-Superior canoe canoe country country or or San San Juan Juan Islands Islands in in Puget Puget

smooth smooth

rounded rounded low low bedrock bedrock rising rising from from the the water water much much in in the the manner manner . . I I

I I

outcrops. outcrops. Most Most distinctive distinctive along along shorelines shorelines and and islands islands is is massive massive

bench, bench, thinly thinly covered covered with with muskeg-like muskeg-like vegetation vegetation with with rounded rounded rock rock

Along Along much much pf pf this this coast coast is is a a gently gently rolling rolling low low sea-cut sea-cut bedrock bedrock

sity sity as as seen seen from from the the water. water.

and and thus thus are are a a very very conspicuous conspicuous visual visual element element creating creating diver­

67 67

best best the the lies lies Canals, Canals, Portland Portland and and Behm Behm East East by by bordered bordered

peninsula peninsula huge huge this this of of end end southern southern the the At At Inlet: Inlet: Willard Willard b. b.

horizon. horizon.

the the along along inland inland farther farther craggy craggy more more becoming becoming above, above, mountains mountains

rounded rounded with with type), type), rock rock and and dimensions dimensions (similar (similar canyons canyons

J J Yosemite-like Yosemite-like of of maze maze a a in in interconnect interconnect fiords fiords these these above above

valleys valleys The The middle. middle. the the in in island island large large a a with with Lake Lake Punchbowl Punchbowl

is is it it

above above

Just Just Punchbowl. Punchbowl. The The

called called --~ --~ basin basin round round walled walled

I I

vertical­ a a in in heading heading fiord fiord

steep-walled steep-walled A A Bay: Bay: Rudyerd Rudyerd a. a.

J J . . . . inlets inlets tributary tributary smaller smaller with with fiord fiord long long

extremely extremely straight, straight, rather rather a a is is Quadra Quadra de de Boca Boca fiord. fiord. this this of of head head

the the above above Lake Lake Goat Goat Big Big of of setting setting the the is is dramatic dramatic ·Equally ·Equally walls. walls.

furrowed furrowed slightly slightly places places some some in in steep, steep, with with narrow, narrow, and and winding winding is is

fiord, fiord, northern northern the the Cove, Cove, Walter Walter granite. granite. smooth smooth of of walls walls bounding bounding

precipitous precipitous high high with with short short relatively relatively are are ones ones northern northern The The border. border.

Canadian Canadian the the along along Canal Canal

Portland Portland to to south south Channel Channel Revilla Revilla and and ·i ·i _. _.

Canal Canal Behm Behm East East of of side side (mainland) (mainland) east east the the along along extends extends fiords fiords

of of network network A A FIORDS: FIORDS: CANAL CANAL QUADRA-PEARSE QUADRA-PEARSE DE DE BAY-BOCA BAY-BOCA RUDYERD RUDYERD 174. 174.

Alaska. Alaska. Southeastern Southeastern in in landscapes landscapes dominated dominated

outstanding outstanding the the ~ake~ ~ake~ of of One One Arm. Arm. Thorne Thorne of of head head the the near near lakes lakes

small small of of cluster cluster a a to to Creek Creek Fish Fish down down Lakes Lakes Gokachin Gokachin and and Mirror Mirror and and

Grace Grace Lake Lake from from extending extending uplands, uplands, these these in in ice ice by by scoured scoured basins basins

many many the the occupy occupy lakes lakes mountain mountain large large rather rather and and ponds, ponds, tarns, tarns, able able

Innumer­ bedrock. bedrock. scoured scoured and and vegetation, vegetation, subalpine subalpine muskeg, muskeg, forest, forest,

of of mixture mixture a a with with topography topography upland upland rounded rounded generally generally scoured scoured

glacier glacier Island, Island, Revilla Revilla southeastern southeastern On On LAKES: LAKES: CREEK-GOKACHIN CREEK-GOKACHIN FISH FISH 173. 173.

areas. areas. Lake Lake Hetta Hetta and and Niblack Niblack

the the in in lakes lakes of-small of-small chains chains and and Strings Strings higher. higher. slightly slightly only only

though though glaciation, glaciation, escaped escaped which which summits summits spire-like spire-like by by surmounted surmounted

locally locally feet feet 2000-3500 2000-3500 of of summits summits hummocky hummocky Rounded Rounded Island. Island. Wales Wales

of of Prince Prince on on Inlet, Inlet, Klakas Klakas and and Sound, Sound, Moira Moira Sound, Sound, Cholmondeley Cholmondeley

above above inlets inlets narrow narrow long long of of number number A A INLET: INLET: SOUND-KLAKAS SOUND-KLAKAS MOIRA MOIRA 172. 172.

ponds. ponds. interior interior and and

islands, islands, small small walls, walls, marble marble rocky rocky with with island, island, of of portion portion central central

through through cutting cutting nearly nearly inlets inlets of of Series Series marble. marble. in in weathering weathering

solution solution to to due due topography topography pitted pitted and and gullies, gullies, formations, formations, rock rock

shaped shaped forming forming ~ddly ~ddly topography, topography, Karst Karst COAST: COAST: INLET INLET ISLAND ISLAND DALL DALL 171. 171.

border. border. Canadian Canadian

near near tributary tributary on on them them through through cutting cutting River River Blue Blue and and formations, formations,

lava lava recent recent eroded eroded Unusually Unusually headwalls. headwalls. granite granite vertical vertical smooth smooth

high high of of areas areas with with valley, valley, U-shaped U-shaped wide wide through through passes passes Canada Canada from from

entering entering river river glacial glacial navigable navigable Medium-sized Medium-sized VALLEY: VALLEY: RIVER RIVER UNUK UNUK 170. 170.

bears. bears. black black readily-observed readily-observed of of concentration concentration

' '

' ' attract attract Creek Creek Anan Anan on on salmon salmon chum chum and and pink pink of of run run Large Large ridge. ridge. ' '

main main of of south south and and side) side) (Anan (Anan north north both both tarns tarns and and lakes lakes interior interior

smaller smaller of of Clusters Clusters saltwater. saltwater. into into Shelokum Shelokum as as such such valleys valleys lake lake

from from descending descending Waterfalls Waterfalls Bay. Bay. Yes Yes to to adjacent adjacent Lake Lake McDonald McDonald as as

such such lakes lakes coastal coastal shaped shaped similarly similarly and and Bay Bay Bailey Bailey as as such such inlets inlets

narrow narrow long long Peninsula, Peninsula, Cleveland Cleveland On On LAKES: LAKES: CREEK CREEK BAY-ANAN BAY-ANAN YES YES 169. 169.

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•• •• ~. ~.

., .,

: :

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The The White White River River Area Area i i

An An Example Example of of a a Scenic Scenic Complex: Complex:

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forest. The peaks provide dominating landmarks from almost every view­ point, while the lakes are special places providing a focus for human journeys and activities.

Surrounding scenery is also important. The sequence of travel through ; I the area, then over Chitistone Pass and down the Chitistone Canyon to the Chitina Valley, then on to the coast at Cordova involves moving ! through the varied environments of this part of the continent, always in the most spectacular and interesting examples of each landscape type.

Color contributes to the scene in summer and particularly during autumn. The dominant colors of the area are light pastels--greens~ oranges, and blues. Color is an important element differentiating this area from landscapes coastward from the Alaska and Wrangell Ranges, where greater rainfall produces much deeper and less subtle coloration.

Natural processes, both ecological and geological, are striking. The landscape is new and in tumult, primarily under the influence of moving ice. The Russel1 Glacier has surged and changed in the past few years. On bluffs along the floodplain of the upper White River, recent erosion reveals melting permafrost lenses. These same bluffs contain many feet of peat, interlayered with river sediments and volcanic dust. Stumps from a dozen generations of spruce forest lie exposed-in the peat, with the present generation growing from the top layer.

The area is one of the best in the Wrangell Mountains Region for viewing dall sheep, caribou, and other species, including schools of grayling and trout, which congregate near the shores of the larger lakes. All of, the area is nearly pristine wilderness, except for four small guiding camps.

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71 l SUMMARY

VISUAL CHARACTERISTICS DEFINING LANDSCAPE CHARACTER (BLM SYSTEM) * Landform--physiography, rockform, texture * Vegetation--type and extent of cover, interfaces * Water--coasts, lakes, streams, marshes * Color--rock, soil, vegetation, sky color * Adjacent Scenery--influence of nearby and distant views

FACTORS.DEfiNING VISUAL CHARACTER TYPE (THIS STUDY) * Location--by region within the state * Relief--large-scale shape of the land surface * Landform--features and textures of that surface

CRITERIA FOR EVALUATING LANDSCAPES * Diversity of visual characteristics * Well developed, clearly expressed single characteristic * Significant features, landmarks and places * Outstanding sequences * Significant visual spaces--vistas, enclosures * Evident natural process--ecological and geological I I * Terrain appearing unaltered by man * Large scale or striking evidence of wildlife

CRITERIA FOR DEFINING SCENIC COMPLEXES * Sequence--the unifying factor of human travel patterns * Viewshed--the area seen from key viewpoints * Contiguity of outstanding landscapes of varied types

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72 -' I I CITATIONS

l. Vineyard Open Land Foundation, "Looking at the Vineyard: A Visual Study for a Changing Island," published by the Vineyard Open Land Foundation, West Tisbury, Massachusetts, 1973. Kevin Lynch, Consultant.

2. We discussed these systems with Duane Lyon and Jim Tallerico, ! landscape architects for the U.S. Forest Service, Chugach Na_tional Forest, Anchorage, and Stan Specht, landscape architect for the BLM State Office, Anchorage. The BLM system is newer and more refined than the USFS system. It is under development by landscape archi­ I ~ects, many of whom transferred to BLM after working on the Forest Service system. The Forest Service landscape analysis system is defined in "National Forest Landscape Management Volume 2: Chapter 1: The Visual Management System," USDA Forest Service, Agriculture Handbook Number 462. The BLM system, now being revised, is at Section 6300 (Visual Resource Management) and following sections of the BLM Manual.

3. L. Burton Litton, "Forest Landscape Description and Inventories: A Basis for Land Planning and Design," USDA Forest Service Research Paper PSW-49, 1968. Developed further in Litton, "Aesthetic Dimensions of the Landscape," in John Krutilla (ed.), Natural Environments, Resources for the Future, 1972. pp. 262-291.

4. Clyde Wahrhaftig, "Physiographic Divisions of Alaska," U.S. Geolog­ ical Survey Professional Paper 482, 1965.

5. Edwip, H. Hammond, "Classes of Land - Surface Form," map of Alaska, National Atlas Sheet Number 61, U.S. Geological Survey, 1969. Howell Williams, "Landscapes of Alaska - Their Geological Evolution," U.S. Geological Survey, 1958, and Robert L. Detterman, "The Arctic Lowland Region - Potential Landform and Lifeform Natural Landmarks, U.S. Geological Survey, 1974. 6. Joint Federal-State Land Use Planning Commission for Alaska, "Major Ecosystems of Alaska," 1973.

7. Summarized in memorandum and map, "Intergovernmental Meeting on Data and Evaluation Criteria for Natural and Cultural Features," Duncan L. Read to Co-Chairmen, Federal-State Land Use Planning Commission for Alaska, August 22, 1977. 8. Scenic evaluation, maps, and discussions by Richard J. Stenmark in "Recreational and Preservation Opportunities in Alaska" and "Resources of Alaska - A Regional Summary," completed by Resources Planning Team, Joint Federal-State Land Use Planning Commission for -,:.J Alaska, July, 1974.

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manuscript. manuscript. the the of of review review

I I critical critical their their for for Gibert Gibert Sally Sally and and Stenmark Stenmark Richard Richard to to and and typing, typing,

elegant elegant their their for for Wasson, Wasson, Dorcus Dorcus and and Stredwick, Stredwick, Nadine Nadine Hill, Hill, Grace Grace

I I Christensen, Christensen, Karen Karen to to cartographer, cartographer, LeFever, LeFever, Susan Susan to to due due is is credit credit

Special Special process. process. publication publication the the coordinated coordinated also also who who Gilbert, Gilbert, Ayse Ayse

illustrator, illustrator, the the and and authors authors the the of of endeavor endeavor cooperative cooperative a a is is study study This This

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I I

74 74

map map overlays overlays on on 1:250,000 1:250,000 scale scale giving giving scenic scenic quality quality rating. rating.

10. 10. Richard Richard J. J. Stenmark, Stenmark, Federal-State Federal-State Land Land Use Use Planning Planning Commission, Commission,

Planning Planning Commission Commission for for Alaska, Alaska, May, May, 1977. 1977.

Lands Lands of of National National Interest Interest in in Alaska," Alaska," Joint Joint Federal-State Federal-State Land Land Use Use

Scenic Scenic and and landform landform 9. 9. maps maps by by Richard Richard J. J. Stenmark Stenmark in in "The "The D-2 D-2 Book, Book,

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the the intimate intimate setting setting of of Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Creek, Creek, winding winding through through white white spruce spruce

and and lakes lakes set set in in tundra. tundra. There There is is the the vast vast open open White White River River valley valley and and

In In close close proximity proximity are are large large lakes lakes and and small small lakes, lakes, lakes lakes set set in in forest forest

The The area area has has tremendous tremendous visual visual diversity diversity in in form, form, texture, texture, and and color. color.

Alaska Alaska Range Range and and the the Kantishna Kantishna Hills. Hills.

the the vicinity vicinity of of Wonder Wonder Lake, Lake, where where the the McKinley McKinley River River separates separates the the

edge edge of of the the Southcentral Southcentral Alaska Alaska arc arc of of high high mountains, mountains, notably notably also also in in

tion tion of of vast vast space. space. This This pattern pattern repeats repeats at at only only a a few few places places along along the the

the the hills hills from from the the high high mountains, mountains, creating creating sweeping sweeping vistas vistas and and a a percep­

The The upper upper White White River, River, running running parallel parallel to to the the Natazhat Natazhat ridge, ridge, separates separates

hills hills and and valleys valleys dominated dominated by by the the Natazhat Natazhat ridge. ridge.

these these travelers, travelers, the the area area is is clearly clearly defined defined as as the the complex complex of of lakes, lakes,

Pass, Pass, the the only only break break in in the the Wrangell-St. Wrangell-St. Elias Elias mountain mountain barrier. barrier. For For

aircraft aircraft almost almost all all come come along along a a route route between between Chisana Chisana and and Chitistone Chitistone

the the area. area. People People passing passing through through the the ·area ·area on on foot, foot, horseback, horseback, or or light light

either either case, case, their their visual visual world world is is circumscribed circumscribed by by the the boundaries boundaries of of

White White River River or or the the smaller smaller basins basins of of Rock Rock and and Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Lakes. Lakes. In In

in in the the area, area, people people tend tend to to stay stay either either within within the the large large basin basin of of the the

The The sequence sequence of of human human travel travel patterns patterns further further confirms confirms this this unity. unity. Once Once

and and the the ridges ridges near near Ping Ping Pong Pong Mountain. Mountain.

White White River, River, the the shores shores of of and and ridges ridges above above Rock Rock and and Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Lakes, Lakes,

visual visual space. space. Some Some of of these these key key viewpoints viewpoints are are North North Fork Fork Island Island in in the the

lie lie within within the the area, area, adding adding to to the the perception perception that that the the area area is is a a single single

north. north. The The view view as as seen seen from from a a number number of of critical critical viewpoints viewpoints tends tends to to

rising rising above above Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Creek Creek and and the the White White River River tributaries tributaries to to the the

lowlying lowlying White White River River Valley, Valley, and and the the complex complex of of hills hills and and mountains mountains

St. St. Elias Elias and and Wrangell Wrangell high high ranges ranges to to the the north north and and west, west, the the broad, broad,

The The landform landform of of the the area area is is defined defined by by three three major major elements: elements: the the

to to the the north, north, as as far far as as Wiki Wiki Peak Peak several several miles miles beyond beyond Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Lake. Lake.

across across Rock Rock and and Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Lakes, Lakes, and and is is still still dominant dominant from from the the ridges ridges

dominates dominates views views from from the the White White River River valley· valley· floor, floor, is is framed framed by by views views

St. St. Elias Elias Mountains Mountains is is seen seen as as the the dominant dominant natural natural landmark. landmark. This This ridge ridge

defined defined as as the the area area from from which which the the high high white white Natazhat Natazhat ridge ridge of of the the

The The area area is is unified unified by by a a number number of of visual visual characteristics. characteristics. It It can can be be

outstanding outstanding visual visual units units and and scenic scenic complexes. complexes.

mountains. mountains. The The area area is is exceptional exceptional by by the the criteria criteria used used to to define define

System System at at places places where where the the high high peaks peaks are are adjacent adjacent to to hills hills and and lower lower

complex complex found found generally generally along along the the northern northern margin margin of of the the Pacific Pacific Mountain Mountain

Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Creek. Creek. It It is is an an unusually unusually fine fine example example of of a a type type of of landscape landscape

includes includes the the upper upper White White River River drainage drainage and and the the adjacent adjacent area area drained drained by by

extending extending into into Canada Canada is is superlatively superlatively scenic. scenic. The The scenic scenic co~plex co~plex

The The northeast northeast corner corner of of the the Wrangell Wrangell Mountains Mountains region region in in Alaska Alaska and and

AN AN EXAMPLE EXAMPLE OF OF A A SCENIC SCENIC COMPLEX: COMPLEX: THE THE WHITE WHITE RIVER RIVER AREA AREA

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on on late-spawning late-spawning and and dead dead salmon. salmon.

visible, visible, which which roost roost in in tall tall cottonwoods cottonwoods along along the the river river and and feed feed

Chilkat Chilkat Lake, Lake, is is a a major major concentration concentration of of bald bald eagles, eagles, readily readily

colorful colorful rock rock outcrops. outcrops. Along Along the the Chilkat Chilkat River River in in winter, winter, near near

Takhin Takhin Rivers Rivers cut cut interconnecting interconnecting valleys valleys far far back back into into them, them, with with

topped, topped, ice-hung ice-hung fluted fluted range range of of alpine alpine peaks. peaks. The The Tsirku Tsirku and and

Takinsha Takinsha Mountains Mountains tower tower above above Haines, Haines, a a classic classic compact compact spire­

175. 175. TAKINSHA TAKINSHA MOUNTAINS-CHILKAT MOUNTAINS-CHILKAT EAGLES: EAGLES: West West of of the the Chilkat Chilkat River, River, the the

an an almost almost 'austere 'austere sense sense of of deep deep enclosure. enclosure.

steep steep primarily primarily bedrock bedrock slopes slopes rising rising from from each each side, side, creating creating

with with very very turbulent turbulent entrance, entrance, narrowly narrowly separated separated walls, walls, and and

c. c. Hidden Hidden Inlet: Inlet: Fiord Fiord off off Pearse Pearse Canal Canal of of small small dimensions, dimensions,

of of cedar, cedar, hemlock, hemlock, and and spruce. spruce.

including including silver silver fir fir locally, locally, as as well well as as the the differing differing textures textures

( (

Alaskan Alaskan mainland mainland exhibits exhibits the the greatest greatest variety variety of of tree tree species, species,

latter latter is is enhanced, enhanced, since since this this most most southerly southerly area area of of the the

vista vista of of powerful powerful enclosure, enclosure, yet yet of of proliferating proliferating life. life. The The

low low and and forested forested mountains mountains rising rising closely closely above above it, it, creating creating a a

although although more more crooked crooked than than most, most, with"rather with"rather steep steep but but fairly fairly

slack slack tide. tide. Willard Willard Inlet, Inlet, off off Pearse Pearse Canal, Canal, is is typical, typical,

Many Many have have intense intense tidal tidal turbulence turbulence at at their their mouths mouths except except at at

network network in in Alaska Alaska of of exceedingly exceedingly narrow narrow extremely extremely long long fiords. fiords.

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the the view view down down the the inlets inlets beyond. beyond.

strings strings of of alpine alpine lakes, lakes, the the near near view view of of which which contrasting contrasting with with

enclosed enclosed settings. settings. Between Between them them are are low low mountain mountain uplands uplands with with

long, long, narrow narrow cuts cuts with with intimate intimate forest forest and and upland upland landscapes landscapes in in

Island Island lie lie Burnett, Burnett, Mossman, Mossman, and and Menefee Menefee Inlets Inlets which which are are very very

168. 168. ETOLIN ETOLIN ISLAND ISLAND INLETS INLETS AND AND LAKES. LAKES. Across Across central central part part of of Etolin Etolin

the the valley valley floor. floor.

glacier glacier approaches approaches near near river, river, or or high high rock-walled rock-walled ridges ridges rise rise from from

10,000 10,000 foot foot Kates Kates Needle Needle visible visible north north from from the the river. river. In In places places

valleys valleys leading leading to to lakes, lakes, glaciers, glaciers, and and peaks. peaks. Steep-sided Steep-sided horn horn of of

flowing flowing through through wide wide U-shaped U-shaped steep-sided steep-sided valley, valley, with with tributary tributary

167. 167. LOWER' LOWER' STIKINE STIKINE RIVER RIVER VALLEY: VALLEY: Stikine Stikine River River enters enters from from Canada, Canada,

Large Large waterfowl waterfowl flocks flocks readily readily seen seen here here during during migration. migration.

irregular irregular often-rocky often-rocky shoreline shoreline and and extensive extensive grass grass flats flats and and bars. bars.

166. 166. ROCKY ROCKY PASS: PASS: Rather Rather narrow winding winding narrow island-dominated island-dominated waterway, waterway, with with

within within bays bays of of generally generally rock-rimmed rock-rimmed chara.cter. chara.cter.

series series of of islands, islands, many many rocky rocky or or steep-sided steep-sided and and flat flat topped, topped,

mainly mainly forested, forested, with with often-wooded often-wooded muskegs muskegs interspersed. interspersed. Extensive Extensive

Large Large tidal tidal flats flats with with grass grass and and sedge sedge favored favored by by deer. deer. Land Land

of of Kuiu Kuiu Island. Island. Irregular Irregular shorelines shorelines and and numerous numerous side side inlets. inlets.

uplands uplands with with scattered scattered steep-sided steep-sided low low mountains mountains on on the the west west side side

165. 165. TEBENKOF-BAY TEBENKOF-BAY OF OF PILLARS: PILLARS: Two Two adjacent adjacent bays bays in in forested forested rolling rolling

pair pair of of narrow narrow alpine alpine lakes lakes in in rugged rugged setting. setting. ~t, ~t,

Thomas Thomas Bay, Bay, small small narrow narrow steep-walled steep-walled cove, cove, with with waterfalls. waterfalls. Above Above

164. 164. SCENERY SCENERY COVE COVE AND AND LAKES: LAKES: Near Near the the Baird Baird Glacier Glacier at at the the head head of of

cliffs. cliffs. Beach Beach at at head. head.

contrast contrast of of the the gray gray rock rock and and blue blue water. water. Waterfalls Waterfalls along along

between between the the sheer sheer walls, walls, individual individual trees trees accentuating accentuating the the

interior interior between between smooth smooth walls, walls, with with narrow narrow crannies crannies leading leading up up

r r

roaring roaring tidal tidal maelstrom maelstrom near near mouth, mouth, and and narrow narrow canyon-like canyon-like

b. b. Fords Fords Terror: Terror: Much Much smaller smaller fiord fiord off off Endicott Endicott Arm, Arm, with with

ice. ice.

near near head,.bordered head,.bordered by by mountains mountains much much rounded rounded off off by by flowing flowing

with with cascades, cascades, rounded rounded high high rims, rims, and and two two glaciers glaciers entering entering

a. a. Tracy Tracy Arm: Arm: Very Very long long winding winding fiord fiord with with near-vertical near-vertical walls walls

canyons, canyons, and and fairly fairly high high but but glacially.rounded glacially.rounded dome dome like like summits. summits.

appear appear to to be be pulling pulling apart, apart, occasional occasional often-precipitous often-precipitous edged edged side side

nften nften exfoliating exfoliating granite, granite, long long furrows furrows in in walls walls where where mountains mountains

toward toward ~alls ~alls the the head head of of the the fiord, fiord, becoming becoming smooth smooth almost almost sheer sheer

heading heading in in glaciers. glaciers. Topography Topography of of these these fiords fiords is is of of steepening steepening

above above it, it, two two long long rather rather narrow narrow winding winding fiords fiords bifurcate, bifurcate,

enclosing enclosing outer outer ridges ridges and and the the massive massive hump hump of of Sumdum Sumdum Mountain Mountain

163. 163. TRACY TRACY ARM-ENDICOTT ARM-ENDICOTT ARM: ARM: Within Within Holkham Holkham Bay, Bay, framed framed by by nearly nearly

granite granite faces faces along along portions portions of of lower lower inlet. inlet.

river, river, partly partly heated heated by by hot hot springs. springs. Meadows Meadows and and smooth smooth vertical vertical

into into river. river. Twin Twin Glacier Glacier calves calves into into lake· lake· of of that that name name adjacent adjacent to to

Small Small steep steep Hol.e Hol.e in in the the Wall Wall Glacier Glacier and and wide wide Taku Taku Glacier Glacier calve calve

near near Juneau. Juneau. Cottonwood Cottonwood and and spruce spruce swamp swamp forest forest on on river river bottoms. bottoms.

162. 162. TAKU TAKU INLET: INLET: Taku Taku River River from from Canada Canada flows flows into into long long tidal tidal inlet inlet several small flats and gravel beaches. Only low brush in sheltered locations where a little soil has formed. Large gently-rising glacier above head of Tarr Inlet. b. Johns Hopkins Inlet: A different world, as this inlet bends and narrows, with 6000 foot rock walls flaring only slightly, and small glaciers forming frozen cascades down them. Glacier .at head with zigzag morainal pattern on ice, and three 10,000

foot pyramidal peaks rising side by side from head of glacier. ( Penetrates more deeply into very high mountains than any other Alaska fiord. 155. GLACIER BAY EAST ARM-PLANT SUCCESSION: Smaller arm, partially bordered by both erosional and depositional ice-formed topography of moderate relief. Low distinct rusty-colored pyramid, the Nunatak, rises along the shore. Further up, White Thunder Ridge of pale · granitic rocks rises low but almost sheer from the water. All stages of vegetational succession down from head of bay: from lichens on rock, to moss, to mountain avens, to willow patches, to alder brush, .to scrubby spruce in heavy brush, to cathedral-like just-matured forest with straight columns and open mossy forest floor, to· island with fully mature uneven-aged snaggly-topped spruce-hemlock forest with brushy openings and low brush on forest floor. a. Upper Muir Inlet: Muir Glacier steadily retreating, leaving for the.moment the Alaska Fiord most sterile of terrestrial life, but favored by a large seal herd which raises pups on iceflows. High-faced active glacier at head, and smoothed recent ice remnants, no longer moving, up side valleys. b. Adams Inlet: Extensive basin with rim of higher mountains and large glaciers, partly saltwater, partly extensive flats from bare mud to early successional vegetation, partly low hills. Evidence of earlier forest in trunks and stumps still visible near shore. 156. WEST CHICHAGOF-YAKOBI ISLAND COAST: a. Ogden Passage-Slocum Arm Waterway: An unusual sheltered continuous waterway along the west edge of the main island, with intervening salt lakes and meadow-fringed bays, but separated from the ocean by a nearly solid string of small narrow islets. Scrubby forest, with many trees shaped by the elements into contorted shapes, and intermingled partly wooded to open muskegs. Whereas interior muskegs are stands of spire-shaped black spruce and feathery tamarack, the coastal type is quite different, with an extremely picturesque form of low often contorted lodgepole pine, often with individual trees or small groups of separate, discrete small ponds ·on brush-free sphagnum floor, dark often flag-shaped mountain hemlocks, and rusty barked paler-needled cedars, the latter often in rows rimming the muskeg. Due to high .precipitation and often poor drainage, these coastal muskegs often grow on gentle slopes, rimmed with trees at the break of the slopes,

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head head of of Yakutat Yakutat Bay, Bay, gives gives the the feeling feeling of of being being a a vast vast water-

b. b. Disenchantment Disenchantment Bay-Hubbard Bay-Hubbard Glacier: Glacier: Disenchantment Disenchantment Bay, Bay, the the

of of the the bay bay up up the the Tyndall Tyndall Glacier Glacier to to Saint Saint Elias, Elias, is is outstanding. outstanding.

The The vista vista over over saltwater saltwater from from the the hills hills on on the the southwest southwest rim rim

glacial glacial lobes, lobes, and and separated separated by by high high rugged rugged groups groups of of hills. hills.

a. a. Icy Icy Bay: Bay: This This inlet inlet is is choked choked with with calving calving ice ice from from various various

exceeded exceeded in in the the state. state.

young young forest, forest, or or meadows. meadows. Flower Flower displays displays in in the the meadows meadows are are not not

antly antly a a series series of of wide wide sand sand beaches, beaches, fringed fringed by by ponds, ponds, marshes, marshes,

across across the the glacier glacier to to the the summits. summits. Malaspina Malaspina coastline coastline is is predomin­

as as an an enormous enormous pyramid. pyramid. A A unified unified vista vista is is gained gained from from the the beaches, beaches,

Ocean Ocean Cape Cape at at the the tip tip of of the the Yakutat Yakutat Forelands, Forelands, the the latter latter appears appears

facing facing cliffs cliffs and and white white summit summit pyramid pyramid of of Saint Saint Elias. Elias. Viewed Viewed from from

Cook, Cook, the the great great dark dark rock rock faces faces of of Augusta, Augusta, to to the the enormous enormous south­

are are individually individually distinctive, distinctive, from from the the ice-sheathed ice-sheathed battlements battlements of of

into into a a ragged ragged but but repetitive repetitive pattern pattern of of compression. compression. The The mountains mountains

ing ing black black lines lines of of medial medial moraine moraine rock, rock, in in places places very very contorted contorted

its its terminus; terminus; white white and and nearly nearly flat flat behind, behind, with with strikingly strikingly contrast­

Glacier. Glacier. It It is is dark dark and and pitted, pitted, with with vegetation vegetation growing growing on on it it near near

high high peaks peaks virtually virtually to to the the ocean ocean lies lies the the vast vast piedmont piedmont Malaspina Malaspina

148. 148. SAINT SAINT ELIAS ELIAS RANGE-MALASPINA. RANGE-MALASPINA. GLACIER: GLACIER: Extending Extending many many miles miles from from the the

shaded shaded layers, layers, the the overall overall impression impression a a dark dark purple. purple.

fluted fluted nearly nearly vertical vertical wall wall carved carved into into contrastingly contrastingly colored colored and and

Guyot Guyot and and Bering Bering piedmont piedmont glaciers. glaciers. Their Their south south face face is is a a bare bare

fringing fringing forest, forest, these these mountains mountains separate separate the the coastal coastal lowlands lowlands from from

147. 147. ROBINSON ROBINSON MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS: A A short short distance distance behind behind ocean ocean beaches beaches and and

mudflats mudflats in in migration. migration.

and and huge huge numbers numbers of of shorebirds shorebirds and and waterfowl waterfowl use use the the bays bays and and

grass. grass. Trumpeter Trumpeter swans swans easily easily seen seen in in the the marshes marshes during during summer, summer,

some some such such as as the the Suckling Suckling Hills, Hills, low low but but covered covered mainly mainly with with lush lush

with with extensive extensive marshes marshes surrounding surrounding ragged ragged isolated isolated mountain mountain blocks, blocks,

The The area area presents presents a a mixture mixture of of landscape landscape types types unique unique in in Alaska, Alaska,

volume volume of of water water plunging plunging over over them. them.

large large waterfalls, waterfalls, impressive impressive not not for for their their height height but but for for the the

the the lake, lake, the the .. .. large large glacial glacial Bering Bering River River plunges plunges over over two two

hung hung face face of of the the horizontally-layered horizontally-layered Carbon Carbon Mountain. Mountain. Below Below

filled filled with with floating floating ice, ice, and and backed backed by by the the precipitous precipitous glacier­

which which is is partially partially separated separated by by the the edge edge of of Bering Bering Glacier, Glacier, is is

b. b. Berg Berg Lake-Bering Lake-Bering Waterfalls: Waterfalls: The The upper upper Berg Berg Lakes, Lakes, one one of of

off off virtually virtually into into the·sea. the·sea.

tip, tip, where where a a 1600 1600 foot foot vertical vertical yellowish-white yellowish-white cliff. cliff. drops drops

streams. streams. Kayak Kayak Island Island is is fairly fairly low low except except near near the the south south

·a ·a mosaic mosaic of of small small lakes, lakes, ponds, ponds, marshes, marshes, sloughs, sloughs, and and indefinite indefinite

distinctive, distinctive, with with a a large large glacial glacial outwash outwash and and delta delta plain plain with with

with with seabird seabird colony. colony. The The flats flats at at the the head head of of the the bay bay are are

Okalee Okalee Spit Spit is is low, low, long long and and narrow. narrow. Wingham Wingham Island Island is is higher, higher,

with with silt silt flats, flats, bordered bordered by by a a series series of of islands· islands· and and spits. spits.

a. a. Controller Controller Bay Bay Spits-Kayak Spits-Kayak Island: Island: Controller Controller Bay, Bay, shallow shallow

146. 146. WEST WEST COPPER-BERING COPPER-BERING RIVER RIVER DELTA: DELTA: a. Beauty Bay: An inlet in the West Arm of Nuka Bay, under the sharp spire of Iceworm Peak. b. Harris Bay: Sea arches; bay nearly divided into upper and lower segments by islets nearly across its center. Northwestern Lagoon with numerous entering glaciers. c. Aialik Bay: Low but ragged icy peaks on all three sides, small Quicksand Cove Beach. Chiswell Islands at mouth with large seabird and sea lion colonies. 140. MONTAGUE EARTHQUAKE COAST: The Hanning Bay area of southwest coast of Montague Island illustrates the 30-foot uplift during 1964 earthquake. Bog, forest, and alpine tundra in close proximity in adjacent McLeod Harbor, a characteristic pattern in Prince William Sound. 141. SOUTHWEST PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND ISLANDS AND FIORDS: a. Knight Inlet Coastline: Of all the islands in Prince William Sound, this one is particularly striking due to its submarine volcanic origin. Lumpy pillow lavas on a large scale make .much of the island appear dominated by round smooth bare bedrock, of many shapes, though high cliffs and low rugged peaks have been carved by glaciers. An extremely incised west coast provides diverse landscapes, which are set off by narrow channels bordered by islands and a string of rocky islets. Between Deer Cove and Drier Bay, precipitous faces some with waterfalls, plunge to the saltwater, and rise to three bold low mountains, The Three Giants. b. Icy Bay-Jackpot Bay: Jackpot Bay is small, rimmed by glacier­ hung peaks, and a series of small lakes up the valley. Icy Bay and associated Nassau Fiord reveal many icebergs that have calved from the entering glaciers and are favored by the many harbor seals. Several small seabird colonies. Sharp-topped Pinnacle Mountain visible above the head of Icy Bay. c. Bainbridge Narrows: A very long narrow marine passageway shows a diversity of textures and rockforms at close range, with patches of dark coastal forest, little meadows, and ribs of rock. Sea otters often seen. West end frames Bainbridge Glacier across Port Bainbridge. Winding channel, scattered islets. Whales of diverse species can perhaps better be seen in these waters than any other accessible place in Alaska, although an equal abundance of one species, the humpback whale, can be seen along the east side of Admiralty Island in Southeastern Alaska. A maze of mountainous but small inlets, bays, and islands drop off into the Pacific in bold headlands from Elrington and adjacent islands. 142. NORTHWEST PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND: a. Harriman Fiord: A nearly enclosed narrow long arm of Port . Wells, bordered by long mostly bare slopes leading to very ·high craggy peaks, incised by glaciers which calve into the fiord.· Yet somewhat gentle topography immediately adjacent to parts of shoreline. Scrubby coastal forests on lower slopes

60 deeply eroded into huge pinnacles. Well to west across lush tu~dra and low brush is the remnant of Fisher Caldera, containing two large lakes, and opening east toward the high volcanoes. Completing a triangle between them is Tugamak Ridge on the north edge of the island, offering an overlook to the volcanoes. 128. OKMOK CALDERA: On Umnak Island, much like Aniakchak, but with higher Tulik Cone looming from just outside steep enclosi~g walls, and steaming from many fumaroles much as the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes must have once appeared. Colorful cones and broken lava flows. 129. ISLANDS OF THE FOUR MOUNTAINS: A cluster of rather small islands, each representing the above-water portion of a distinct volcano. Two of them, Carlisle and Cleveland, are perfect high cones, the latter steaming furiously in recent years. Two other high volcanoes visible on nearby Umnak Island. 130. WEST ATKA FIORD COAST: A long, narrow, indented grassy island, with many long narrow fiords nearly cutting the island into pieces, steep-sided low mountains, and many ponds and lakes. 131. ADAK LAKES AND BAYS: Southern part of.Adak, characterized by grassland and bold rounded rock hummocks and promontories on low. mountains. Coastal cliffs, fiords, and interior formed by glaciers into rugged topography and innumerable ponds and lakes. High coastal cliffs: Many waterfalls, including Bay of Waterfalls, where many cascade into the sea. 132. KANAGA CALDERA AND VOLCANO: Volcano on northern peninsula of Kanaga Island, with Kanaga Volcano, and small Kanaga Caldera, whose main ridge, Kanaton Ridge is separated from the volcano by a lake­ filled depression, and which provides an excellent viewing platform. 133. SEMISOPOCHNOI CALDERA: Five-mile wide caldera, like Okmok and Aniakchak, but with several lakes. Located on small island with Anvil Peak in center. 134. DAVIDOF-KHVOSTOF DROWNED CALDERA: Remnants of caldera formed between the· two listed islets and Pyramid Island. Blocks, pinnacles, and remnants protrude from the sea, with openings that a ship can pass between. Various shapes and textures of rocks, including layering, make the vista from within one of the strangest arid most dramatic in Alaska. 135. ATTU MOUNTAIN GRASSLAND: Low but steep-sided and closely-spaced mountain topography, with bold headlands and stream valleys around the bays. Exceptionally luxuriant though non-woody lowland vegeta­ tion, consisting of tall grasses, herbaceous plants, and in season a flower display not excelled in Alaska. Fog characteristically shrouds the rock forms and hides the emerald hues seasonally so vivid on Aleutian Islands such as Attu. 136. WEST KODIAK FIORDS AND LAKES: A nearly interconnecting network of ~ong fiords and similarly-shaped lakes dissect west-central Kodiak Island. Wide grassy valleys separate the rather low but boldly carved bedrock-exposed crystalline mountains. Inlets varying from long straight Uyak Bay to narrow winding Moser Bay, and lakes such

58

56 56

colorful colorful gash gash in in wall, wall, The The Gates. Gates.

about about 1930. 1930. Aniakchak Aniakchak River River flows flows from from lake lake through through narrow narrow

tion tion just just becoming becoming reestablished reestablished following following volcanic volcanic activity activity

cliffs, cliffs, containing containing cones cones and and Surprise Surprise Lake, Lake, and and sparse sparse vegeta­

.i. .i.

a. a. Aniakchak Aniakchak Caldera: Caldera: Large Large crater crater within within volcano, volcano, rimmed rimmed by by

l2l l2l .. .. ANIAKCHAK ANIAKCHAK CALDERA CALDERA AND AND BEACHES: BEACHES:

string string of of round round to to peaked peaked volcanoes volcanoes inland. inland.

strata strata in in mountains mountains near near coast, coast, extensive extensive bay-head bay-head tide tide flats, flats, and and

rocky rocky islets, islets, between between Wide Wide Bay Bay and and Nakalilok Nakalilok Bay, Bay, with with layered layered rock rock

120. 120. CHIGINAGAK CHIGINAGAK VOLCANO VOLCANO COAST: COAST: Bay Bay and and inlet inlet coastline, coastline, with with small small

favored favored by by brown brown bears. bears.

coastal coastal inlet. inlet. Many Many low low islands islands in in Southeast Southeast Arm Arm with with tall tall grass, grass,

Adjacent Adjacent smaller smaller lakes lakes and and Portage Portage Bay, Bay, with with steep steep cliffs cliffs along along

in in valleys valleys that that rim rim the the long long narrow narrow Southeast Southeast Arm Arm of of Becharof Becharof Lake. Lake.

shore shore of of Becharof Becharof Lake. Lake. Rim Rim of of low low but but ruggedly ruggedly eroded eroded mountains mountains

volcanic volcanic cone cone near near the the Gas Gas Rocks Rocks under under Mount Mount Peulik Peulik on on the the south south

ll9. ll9. BECHAROF BECHAROF SOUTHEAST SOUTHEAST ARM ARM AND AND PEULIK PEULIK ACTIVE ACTIVE VOLCANO: VOLCANO: Newly Newly active active low low

top top collapsed collapsed inward inward in in this this century. century.

silhouette silhouette like like shark's shark's teeth, teeth, showing showing the the remnant remnant after after the the

Mount Mount Katmai Katmai volcano, volcano, which which has has a a round round level level rim rim with with a a

Bay Bay (of (of which which Geographic Geographic Harbor Harbor is is inner inner part), part), one one can can see see

in in miniature miniature on on beach beach rock rock outcrops. outcrops. From From just just outside outside Amalik Amalik

purples, purples, with with laminations laminations of of all all shades, shades, the the pattern pattern repeated repeated

Rimmed Rimmed by by steep-sided steep-sided rather rather mountains mountains of of tans tans flat~topped flat~topped to to

way way entering entering it, it, bordered bordered by by low low bedrock bedrock and and sand sand beaches. beaches.

a. a. Geographic Geographic Harbor: Harbor: Picturesque Picturesque fiord fiord with with very very narrow narrow passage­

behind behind which which loom loom the the network network of of volcanoes. volcanoes.

readily readily observed observed feeding feeding and and resting. resting. Coarsely Coarsely laminated laminated mountains, mountains,

sedge sedge meadows, meadows, and and near near stream stream mouths, mouths, brown brown bears bears can can often often be be

very very sharp, sharp, with with broad broad mud mud flats flats at at head. head. On On these these mud mud flats, flats,

Kukak Kukak Bay, Bay, rimmed rimmed by by group group of of volcanic volcanic peaks, peaks, some some rounded, rounded, some some

capes, capes, vegetated vegetated by by luxuriant luxuriant high high brush brush with with interspersed interspersed meadows. meadows.

118. 118. KATMAI KATMAI VOLCANO VOLCANO AND AND INLET INLET COAST: COAST: Series Series of of deep deep inlets inlets and and low low

cliffs cliffs through through the the softer softer materials. materials.

erosion·to erosion·to expose expose the the harder harder nearly nearly horizontal horizontal surfaces, surfaces, and and form form

resistance resistance of of sedimentary sedimentary rocks rocks and and ash ash or or lava lava flows flows have have allowed allowed

at at successive successive levels, levels, deeply deeply entrenched entrenched by by stream, stream, where where differential differential

mountain mountain front. front. In In northeast, northeast, extensive extensive series series of of bedrock bedrock benches benches

of of large large mountain mountain lakes, lakes, extending extending from from Brooks Brooks to to Battle, Battle, along along

Brushy Brushy open open birch birch or or spruce spruce woodland, woodland, grading grading into into tundra. tundra. Chain Chain

by by unified unified cluster cluster of of 5000-7000 5000-7000 foot foot volcanoes volcanoes of of irregular irregular shape. shape.

Inland Inland slope slope of of Aleutian Aleutian Range, Range, with with low low layered layered mountains mountains backed backed

altering altering character character of of landscape. landscape.

height height volcanoes. volcanoes. Erosional Erosional and and depositional depositional processes processes rapidly rapidly

tains, tains, and and rimmed rimmed at at head head by by Knife Knife Peak Peak and and other other medium­

cut cut by by streams streams into into narrow narrow gorges, gorges, surrounded surrounded by by moun­ ro~nded ro~nded

bottomed bottomed basin basin covered covered with with buff-colored buff-colored compacted compacted ash, ash, deeply deeply

c. c. Valley Valley of of Ten Ten Thousand Thousand Smokes: Smokes: Extensive Extensive intermontane intermontane flat­

54 54

seen seen from from lower lower end, end, a a contrasting contrasting form. form.

Line Line of of craggy craggy summits summits surrounding surrounding upper upper lake. lake. Redoubt Redoubt Volcano Volcano

coastal coastal influence. influence. Extensive Extensive sand sand beaches beaches near near lower lower end. end.

Mountains. Mountains. White White spruce spruce forest forest but but with with heavy heavy brush brush from from

a. a. Crescent Crescent Lake: Lake: Medium-sized Medium-sized lake lake set set into into west west edge edge of of Chigmit Chigmit

114. 114. REDOUBT-ILIAMNA REDOUBT-ILIAMNA VOLCANOES-COOK VOLCANOES-COOK INLET INLET COAST: COAST:

ALEUTIAN ALEUTIAN RANGE RANGE Division Division (Vegetation: (Vegetation: tundra tundra and and high high brush) brush)

areas. areas.

and and pools. pools. It It is is surrounded surrounded by by open open woodlands woodlands with with extensive extensive open open

sections sections carved carved into into low low but but narrow narrow rock-rimmed rock-rimmed gorges, gorges, with with cascades cascades

exposed exposed in in this this country. country. The The river river itself itself has has bold bold bluffs, bluffs, and and

nonetheless nonetheless is is striking striking due due to to the the abundant abundant rock rock outcrops outcrops which which are are

113. 113. KOKSETNA KOKSETNA VALLEY VALLEY AND AND BLUFFS: BLUFFS: Set Set in in rather rather low low hills, hills, this this river river

river river shoreline shoreline changes changes abruptly abruptly to to tundra. tundra.

where where the the foothills foothills end, end, and and the the spruce spruce forest forest away•from away•from the the

easily easily attained attained summit summit views. views. This This section section ends ends at at Red Red Bluff, Bluff,

interesting interesting foothills, foothills, with with their their diverse diverse vegetation vegetation and and

portion, portion, the the Mulchatna Mulchatna is is rather rather closely closely rimmed rimmed by by low low but but

a. a. Mu1chatna Mu1chatna Foothills Foothills Valley: Valley: At At the the lower lower end end of of its its foothills foothills

terms terms to to the the mountains. mountains.

within within the the Interior Interior Division, Division, but but it it ties ties more more closely closely in in visual visual

the the lakes lakes from from which which they they spring. spring. The The bulk bulk of of this this complex complex lies lies

rather rather s.mall, s.mall, rapid, rapid, and and clear, clear, since since the the glacial glacial flour flour settles settles in in

backed backed by by the the Chigmit Chigmit Mountains. Mountains. The The rivers rivers flowing flowing through through are are it it

enclosed enclosed basin, basin, visible visible from from many many places places within within or or along along it, it, and and

River River and and their their woodlands woodlands are are open. open. One One gains gains a a sense sense of of a a vast vast

provide provide easily easily attainable attainable since since they they fringe fringe the the Mulchatna Mulchatna vie~oints vie~oints

foothills, foothills, wooded wooded along along their their slopes slopes but but with with tundra tundra on on top. top. These These

Bonanza Bonanza Hills Hills rising rising from from its its floor, floor, and and rimmed rimmed by by a a series series of of

woodland woodland along along much much of of its its floor, floor, with with scattered scattered hills hills such such as as the the

112. 112. MULCHATNA-CHILIKADROTNA MULCHATNA-CHILIKADROTNA FOOTHILLS FOOTHILLS BASIN: BASIN: An An extensive extensive basin basin with with

between between the the peaks. peaks.

promontory, promontory, channeling channeling the the view view deep deep into into the the narrowing narrowing defile defile

vertical vertical cliffs cliffs line line the the upper. upper. end end of of the the lake, lake, with with one one rock rock

height height but but extremely extremely rugged rugged and and with with small small glaciers. glaciers. Low Low

straight straight stretch stretch leading leading into into mountains mountains of of only only moderate moderate

$and $and beaches beaches fringe fringe the the lower lower portion. portion. Above Above a a bend bend is is a a long long

a. a. Kontrashibuna Kontrashibuna Lake: Lake: This This is is a a particularly particularly impressive impressive lake. lake.

spruce spruce ~oodland. ~oodland.

birch birch and and spruce, spruce, tundra, tundra, and and areas areas of of dry dry lichen-floored lichen-floored open open

tion tion between between boreal boreal forest forest and and maritime maritime tundra, tundra, with with patches patches of of

looming looming above above it. it. The The vegetation vegetation around around the the lower lower lake lake is is a a grada­

mountain mountain borders. borders. The The lower lower lake lake has has lower lower more more rounded rounded mountains mountains

south. south. The The upper upper lake lake has has extensive extensive gravel gravel beaches beaches and and .rugged .rugged

below below each each of of these these lake lake groups. groups. The The two two Tazimina Tazimina Lakes Lakes lie lie to to the the

lll. lll. KONTRASHIBUNA-TAZIMINA KONTRASHIBUNA-TAZIMINA LAKES: LAKES: Large Large waterfalls waterfalls cascade. cascade. from from rivers rivers

52 52

Lachbuna, Lachbuna, and and Portage Portage Lakes Lakes at at the the mountain mountain front, front, and and the the deep deep

the the west west side side of of the the Chigmit Chigmit Mountains, Mountains, in-cluding in-cluding Turquoise, Turquoise, Twin, Twin,

109. 109. LAKE LAKE CLARK CLARK PASS PASS AREA AREA CANYONS CANYONS AND AND LAKES: LAKES: This This complex complex encompasses encompasses

Pass. Pass.

complex, complex, with with Necons-Chilligan Necons-Chilligan Pass Pass lying lying directly directly north north of of Merrill Merrill

These These two two visual visual units units encompass encompass the the Revelation Revelation Mountains Mountains scenic scenic

Spurr, Spurr, a a recently recently active active volcano. volcano.

northeast northeast of of the the lake lake rises rises the the high high bulky bulky mass mass of of Mount Mount

shore, shore, except except for for a a sandy sandy beach beach near near the the stream stream outlet. outlet. Just Just

glacier-covered glacier-covered pinnacles pinnacles rising rising directly directly from from the the ~outh ~outh

large large straight straight Chakachamna, Chakachamna, a a classic classic mountain mountain lake, lake, with with high high

Glacier, Glacier, yet yet with with wide wide beaches beaches and and gentle gentle wooded wooded slopes; slopes; and and

filled filled in in from from glacial glacial outwash outwash and and nearly nearly blocked blocked by by Shamrock Shamrock

river river to to the the east east are are two two contrasting contrasting lakes: lakes: Kenibuna, Kenibuna, nearly nearly

Merrill Merrill Pass, Pass, most most no.tably no.tably The The Tusk Tusk and and Skwentna Skwentna Spires. Spires. Down Down

b. b. Chakachamna Chakachamna Lake-Merrill Lake-Merrill Pass: Pass: Sharp Sharp granite granite spires spires near near

mountains mountains on on the the Chilligan Chilligan River River side. side.

Necons), Necons), and and the the gentler, gentler, colorful, colorful, much much more more talus-covered talus-covered

landforms landforms of of crystalline crystalline spires spires on on the the west west side side (Two (Two Lakes­

lake lake lies lies at at its its head, head, from from which which is is visible visible the the contrasting contrasting

characteristic characteristic of of this this particular particular mountain mountain range. range. A A small small

penetrates penetrates the the Chigmit Chigmit Mountains Mountains to to a a low-elevation low-elevation pass pass

a. a. Two Two Lakes-Necons Lakes-Necons Chilligan Chilligan Pass: Pass: A A narrowing narrowing alpine alpine valley valley

108. 108. MERRILL MERRILL PASS PASS AREA AREA SPIRES SPIRES AND AND LAKES: LAKES:

one one of of the the most most abrupt abrupt mountain mountain faces faces in in Alaska. Alaska.

8000 8000 feet feet above above the the lowlands lowlands near near the the head head of of the the Big Big River River shows shows

alpine alpine flanks flanks on on the the west. west. The The vista vista of of Hesperus Hesperus rising rising a a sheer sheer

area area of of tall tall cliffs cliffs at at the the head head of of the the Big Big River, River, rimmed rimmed by by gentle gentle

The The surrounding surrounding Revelation Revelation Mountains Mountains are are an an exceptionally exceptionally remote remote

scarps scarps of of Golgotha Golgotha and and Angel Angel Peaks Peaks at at the the south south end. end.

separated separated by by side side canyons, canyons, abruptly abruptly terminated terminated against against the the

extremely extremely deep deep glacial glacial trough trough with with mountain mountain .walls .walls scarcely scarcely

lower lower elevation elevation of of the the glacial glacial approach. approach. A A single single very very narrow narrow

separated separated from from one one another, another, though though rising rising taller. taller. due due to to the the

and and character character to to the the Cathedral Cathedral Spires, Spires, but but less less completely completely

a. a. Hesperus-South Hesperus-South Buttress Buttress Glacier Glacier Gorge: Gorge: Spires Spires of of similar similar form form

107. 107. REVELATION REVELATION MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS:

and and the the small small spaces spaces from from within within which which they they are are closely closely seen. seen.

rise rise from from base base to to top, top, but but very very impressive impressive due due to to their their sheerness sheerness

s·eparate s·eparate them them into into individual individual ridges ridges and and peaks peaks of of modest modest actual actual

crags crags can can be be closely closely seen seen from from the the intervening intervening glaciers, glaciers, which which

compact compact cluster cluster of of smooth-walled smooth-walled granite granite spires. spires. These These vertical vertical

number number of of narrow narrow finger-like finger-like smooth smooth glaciers glaciers deeply deeply dissect dissect a a

106. 106. CATHEDRAL CATHEDRAL SPIRES: SPIRES: Forming Forming the the headwaters headwaters of of the the Kichatna Kichatna River, River, a a

lake. lake.

spires spires above above Cripple Cripple and and Snowslide Snowslide Creeks Creeks beyond beyond the the head head of of the the

of of the the Alaska Alaska Range, Range, with with a a small small cluster cluster of of smooth smooth sheer sheer granite granite

From From gentle gentle woodlands woodlands at at its its foot, foot, it it leads leads into into the the lower lower reaches reaches

lOS. lOS. CHELATNA CHELATNA LAKE: LAKE: Long Long narrow narrow mountain-front mountain-front lake lake on on the the south south slope. slope.

50 50

focus focus to to the the west west from from most most points points is is Denali. Denali.

deposited deposited extensive extensive wide wide gravel gravel and and boulder boulder beds. beds. The The central central

River River area area near near Polychrome Polychrome Pass. Pass. Large Large glacial glacial rivers rivers have have

including including brightly brightly colored colored eroded eroded lava lava flows, flows, in in the the Toklat Toklat

Various Various crystalline crystalline and and volcanic volcanic rock. rock. types types are are visible, visible,

which which may may readily readily be be seen seen many many of of Alaska's Alaska's large large mammal mammal species. species.

bordering bordering it. it. The The McKinley McKinley Park Park Highway Highway follows follows it, it, from from

sweep, sweep, unifying unifying the the extens·ive extens·ive and and diverse diverse types types of of terrain terrain

high high hills hills to to the the north. north. Yet, Yet, this this trough trough allows allows a a visual visual

cutting cutting a a narrow narrow V-shaped V-shaped canyon canyon across across the the rugged rugged unglaciated unglaciated

flowing flowing along along it; it; seven seven streams streams flow flow directly directly across across it, it, each each

addition addition to to those those that that cross cross it. it. This This trough trough has has no no stream stream

There, There, however, however, a a stream stream flows flows through through part part of of the the trough, trough, in in

trough trough between between the the northeast northeast

Wrangells Wrangells and and the the Alaska Alaska Range. Range.

I I

formed formed by by a a line line of of plains plains and and passes, passes, rather rather similar similar to to the the

Hills Hills from from the the Alaska Alaska Range Range is is a a subalpine subalpine to to alpine alpine trough, trough,

b. b. Polychrome-Sable Polychrome-Sable Trough: Trough: Separating Separating the the Wyoming Wyoming and and Kantishna Kantishna

Russell. Russell.

Chedotlathna Chedotlathna Glacier Glacier curves curves up up toward toward the the pinnacle pinnacle of of Mount Mount

facing facing Wickersham Wickersham Wall, Wall, and and further further west, west, the the large large and and colorful colorful

At At closer closer range range one one sees sees the the very very high high cliffs cliffs of of the the northwest­

focus focus is is on on high high section section between between Denali, Denali, Foraker, Foraker, and and Russell. Russell.

toward toward Denali, Denali, often often with with caribou caribou in in the the foreground. foreground. Primary Primary

Kantishna Kantishna Hills Hills across across tundra tundra and and woodlands woodlands and and Wonder Wonder Lake Lake

vista. vista. Closer Closer is is the the view view from from the the southwest southwest edge edge of of the the

topped topped by by Denali. Denali. Castle Castle Rocks Rocks further further west west provide provide a a similar similar

tundra tundra foothills foothills to to the the white white wall wall of of the the Alaska Alaska Range Range beyond, beyond,

lake lake and and vast vast sparsely sparsely wooded wooded moist moist lowland lowland below, below, across across

single single unified unified vista vista a a range range of of visual visual types types from from foreground foreground

basin basin facing facing toward toward mountains. mountains. Views Views from from hills hills unite unite into into

granite granite outcrops outcrops rising rising out out of of vast vast plain, plain, cradling cradling lake lake in in

a. a. Lake-Roosevelt Lake-Roosevelt Hills: Hills: Isolated Isolated Chilch~kabena Chilch~kabena hills hills with with

101. 101. DENALI DENALI HIGH HIGH PEAKS PEAKS AND AND LOWLANDS: LOWLANDS:

black black coal coal to to white white lenses, lenses, in in addition addition to to pale pale buff. buff.

Along Along Lignite Lignite Greek Greek thinly thinly laminated laminated bluffs bluffs expose expose all all shades shades from from

badland badland cliffs, cliffs, and and badlands badlands in in oranges oranges and and reds, reds, as as at at Suntrans. Suntrans.

dated dated rock rock strata strata forming forming small small amphitheaters, amphitheaters, delicately delicately fluted fluted

on on north north flank flank of of Alaska Alaska Range. Range. Soft Soft rapidly rapidly eroding eroding poorly poorly consoli­

100. 100. HEALY HEALY BADLANDS: BADLANDS: Small Small portion portion of of unglaciated unglaciated high high rugged rugged foothills foothills

as as well well as as alpine alpine tarns. tarns. Long Long gentle gentle subalpine subalpine valleys. valleys.

to to glaciated glaciated mountains. mountains. Abundant Abundant valley-floor valley-floor lakes lakes of of all all sizes sizes

valleys valleys and and low low open open passes. passes. Tilted Tilted benchlands benchlands on on west west rising rising east east

Discrete Discrete massive massive mountain mountain blocks blocks separated separated by by network network of of through through

birch birch and and aspen aspen woodlands, woodlands, and and interspersed interspersed with with grassy grassy meadows. meadows.

subalpine subalpine mountain mountain hemlock hemlock band, band, yet yet mixed mixed with with light-textured light-textured

of of dark dark mossy mossy spruce spruce transition transition from from boreal boreal to to coastal coastal fGrest, fGrest, with with

99. 99. KENAI KENAI MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS AND AND LAKES: LAKES: Forest Forest and and extremely extremely attractive attractive mixture mixture

lakeland. lakeland.

and and moose moose often often seen, seen, and and Kenai Mountain Mountain Kenai r;ises r;ises from from east east edge edge of of

48 48

additional additional ponds ponds just just south south in in hummocky hummocky moraines moraines in in and and in in the the

narrow narrow lakes lakes in in rock-cut rock-cut basins basins in in notches notches through through ridges, ridges, with with

of of area, area, with with large large esker esker systems systems around around Crazy Crazy Notch, Notch, and and many many long long

cirques cirques and and passes. passes. Stagnant Stagnant icemelt icemelt topography topography along along south south edge edge

tered tered rolling rolling alpine alpine highlands, highlands, and and rock rock basin basin lakes lakes widespread widespread in in

Clearwater Clearwater Mountains, Mountains, separated separated into into blocks blocks by by streams, streams, with with scat­

alpine alpine plateau plateau traversed traversed by by the the Denali Denali Highway. Highway. Just Just north north are are the the

Susitna Susitna to to Deborah Deborah and and Hess, Hess, including including high high peaks peaks north north from from the the

Delta Delta Creek Creek just just to to the the east. east. On On the the south south side, side, views views over over upper upper

alpine alpine uplands uplands to to the the very very dominant dominant Mount Mount Hayes, Hayes, and and up up and and down down

Fork Fork Little Little Delta Delta to to magnificent magnificent Mount Mount Deborah, Deborah, and and south south over over

rolling rolling alpine alpine plateaus plateaus toward toward lowlands. lowlands. To To the the southwest, southwest, up up East East

colors. colors. To To the the north, north, views views from from Molybdenum Molybdenum Ridge Ridge over over extensive extensive

lavas lavas on on Rainbow Rainbow Mountain Mountain on on southeast southeast edge edge eroded eroded into into bright bright

cutting cutting through through Alaska Alaska Range Range in in tundra-sided tundra-sided narrow narrow valley, valley, with with

tain tain and and high high plateau. plateau. At At the the east, east, Delta Delta River River north~flowing north~flowing

92. 92. MOUNT MOUNT DEBORAH-HAYES DEBORAH-HAYES PEAKS PEAKS AND AND LAKES: LAKES: A A diverse diverse area area of of high high moun­

Mount Mount Silvertip Silvertip and and White White Princess. Princess.

Jarvis Jarvis and and Gerstle Gerstle valleys valleys to to the the high high Alaska Alaska Range Range peaks peaks such such as as

south south across across Jagged Jagged Boulder Boulder Plateau Plateau up up narrow narrow partly partly glacier-filled glacier-filled

Panoramic Panoramic Peak Peak north north over over the the Tanana Tanana Flats; Flats; and and from from its its ridge, ridge,

sion sion of of the the eastern eastern Alaska Alaska Range, Range, and and a a viewing viewing platform: platform: from from

91. 91. JARVIS-GERSTLE JARVIS-GERSTLE MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS: Granite Granite Mountain Mountain forms forms a a northern northern exten­

though though boreal boreal vegetation. vegetation.

bedrock bedrock bosses, bosses, some some inset inset with with brightly brightly colored colored tarns. tarns. Luxuriant Luxuriant

surface surface unusually unusually hummocky, hummocky, with with numerous numerous exposed exposed round round smooth smooth

steep steep scarps scarps and and ice-sculpted ice-sculpted peaks peaks of of craggy craggy character. character. Land Land

fair-sized fair-sized lakes, lakes, each each with with its its own own vivid vivid color, color, vistas vistas framed framed by by

90. 90. TEBAY TEBAY LAKES LAKES BASIN: BASIN: Rather Rather narrow narrow basin basin enclosing enclosing cluster cluster of of three three

small small streams streams and and ponds. ponds.

Valley Valley floor floor entirely entirely a a waterfowl waterfowl marsh, marsh, with with wet wet meadows, meadows, sloughs, sloughs,

ting ting with with steep' steep' vegetated vegetated slopes, slopes, forming forming abrupt abrupt valley valley walls. walls. ' '

Tana Tana River, River, with with glacier glacier at at head, head, rock rock bluffs bluffs and and outcrops outcrops alterna­

89. 89. TANA TANA WEST WEST FORK FORK MARSHLANDS: MARSHLANDS: Large Large basin basin formed formed by by fork fork of of upper upper

into into very very fine fine sharp sharp needles. needles.

with with high high smooth smooth vertical vertical walls. walls. Dark Dark peaks peaks on on south south rim rim carved carved

with with one one large large colorful colorful lake. lake. Kiagna Kiagna Canyon Canyon entering entering from from north north

Subalpine Subalpine meadows meadows and and brushy brushy areas areas along along hummocky hummocky floor floor of of basin, basin,

entirely entirely by by rugged rugged mountains, mountains, the the entrance entrance walled walled off off by by a a glacier. glacier.

88. 88. GRANITE GRANITE CREEK CREEK BASIN: BASIN: Isolated Isolated large large basin, basin, surrounded surrounded almost almost

rock rock strata. strata.

with with very very deep deep narrow narrow winding winding gorge gorge of of strikingly strikingly patterned patterned deformed deformed

87. 87. CANYON CANYON CREEK CREEK GORGE: GORGE: Northward Northward valley valley from from upper upper Chitina Chitina Valley, Valley,

blocky blocky crystalline crystalline rocks rocks remain remain dominant. dominant.

northeast northeast cliffs cliffs are are of of sediments sediments and and volcanics volcanics as as well, well, though though

sity sity Range. Range. Main Main south south wall wall 'of 'of igneous igneous materials, materials, but but to to the the

cirques cirques of of south south face face of of Moul)t Moul)t Bona, Bona, and and adjacent adjacent peaks peaks of of Univi!r­

Hawkins Hawkins and and Barnard Barnard Glaciers, Glaciers, stupendous stupendous scarps scarps along along faces faces and and

86. 86. WALL WALL OF OF MOUNT MOUNT BONA: BONA: Above Above deeply deeply inset inset narrow narrow valleys valleys filled filled by by eastern ends, in contrast to vertical cliffs and rocky promontories interspersed with small gravelly beaches to west. Overlaps interior, wooded country on east, with heavy brush on mountains, extending into tundra country west of the main ridge with scattered brush and cottonwood groves. West of the main ridge is a large number of large to medium sized mountain lakes widespread through the Ahklun and Kilbuck Mountains, many in striking settings of canyons, basins, and cirques, and bordered by drier tundra, cottonwoods, or brush. a. Kisaralik Canyon: After flowing out from the Ahklun Mountains, this river carves a steep vegetated canyon, as well as a series of low rocky gorges with cascades or falls, directly through the round-topped Kilbuck Mountains, going from tundra to cottonwood groves to river-edge spruce woods with tundra benches. b. Lake Beverley Horns: This large lake on the east side of the Ahkluns has two arms called Golden Horn and Silver Horn, which cut between distinctively glacier·-carved rock-ribbed round­ topped pinnacles.

PACIFIC MOUNTAIN Division (Vegetation: boreal forest)

80. CARDEN LAKE AND PALISADES: A marshy lake set in a trough between the north front of the Alaska (Nutzotin) Range and the Carden Hills. Columnar volcanic palisades rise along the south rim of the Carden hills above the lake. 81. CROSS CREEK-CHISANA CANYONS: Two very different canyons, separated by a basin around Chisana settlement, perfectly aligned so that very long narrowly-enclosed vistas go in both directions. Symmetri­ cal pinnacle of Cross Peak, with its face ice-covered, rises at head of Cross Creek. Cross Creek Canyon rather narrow, rimmed in part by thinly-bedded rocks in a variety of light colors. Chisana Canyon is a steep rocky defile through the Alaska Range carved by the large glacial Chisana River, with fluted gray cliffs in portions of it, and sharp-peaked mountains above. 82. CHITISTONE CANYON-WHITE RIVER: a. White River-Ptarmigan Group of Lakes: A broad subalpine glacial valley, set off by high snow peaks forming south wall, and flat-topped alpine ridges of bedded volcanics to north. Series of lakes north of valley, a setting for views of the . high peaks, but with diverse foregrounds: a mixture of meadows, aspen groves, spruce forests, and tundra, with columnar lava cliffs cradling one lake. Several small canyons on south with . brightly colored layered walls, and unique blotchy ground patchwork of exposed white ash deposits. b. Chitistone-Nizina Canyons: North-south Nizina Canyon heading at large glacier and Wrangells volcanoes, joining separate. northeast-trending narrower Chitistone Canyon with gorge and high waterfall near head. Both set in multi-layered rather pale-colored sedimentary and volcanic strata, eroded into

46 from Lime Peak at west end of White Mountains, Mount Schwatka to north overlooking both White Mountains and Yukon Flats, with Mt. Glacier and Wolf also to north, and isolated lower mountains at edge of flats. Yukon Flats in this area bordered by rolling marginal terraces having steep 150-600 foot escarpments above flats, with abundant thaw lakes. Thus, a remarkable diversity of landscape types within small area. 62. CHENA GRANITE TORS: Above Chena River on south side, extensive rather flat tundra ridgetop is surmounted by striking series of granite pinnacles in castle-like formations. 63. KANUTI FLATS-SITHYLEMENKAT LAKE: Series of interconnecting ponds, with streams and sloughs on Kanuti Flats. Drains along Kanuti River, north via narrow rock-walled canyon. To south, two adjacent large round lakes, possibly (though questionable) of meteor origin, Sithylemenkat and Tokusatatquaten, in unique setting for the inter­ ior, in wooded basins under mountain ridges. a. Sithylemenkat Lake: Large round lake cradled within rounded ridges. 64. RAY MOUNTAINS: Although in region which escaped continental glacia­ tion, local glaciation did produce landscape of partially glaciated upper v&lleys and north-facing cirques, a few containing tarns as well as oddly-shaped rocky crags and tors. Springs. 65. YUKON RIVER, RAMPARTS: Very large river hemmed into narrow rocky winding gorge between Ray River and the Tanana. Very high bold partially vegetated bluffs enclose this length of river, with Smoothface Mountain rising behind. In many places, river confined to single channel, flowing fast but without rapids. 66. ~ONEY CREEK DISSECTED BENCHLANDS: From a tableland, covered by mostly-vegetated dunes, a very intricate network of small streams east of the Nowitna River that have carved a remarkable series of 200-300 foot steep-walled gullied canyons. Closely parallel tribu­ taries are also similarly incised, creating on a miniature scale a canyonlands topography. 67. NOWITNA RIVER CANYON: Above the big bend of the Nowitna, this rather small, clear, gentle river has carved a deep bedrock canyon through ranges of compressed, rounded low mountains. 68. LOCKWOOD HILLS-PAR FLATS: A combination of well-defined examples of a vaz:iety of interior landscape types within a relati~ely small area. Steep-sided lone Angutikada Peak immediately overlooking the small wetland Pah Flats with ponds and small streams, draining north via the Pah River through a narrow canyon. Ridge of rounded lower mountains along southwest edge of flats, steeply bounding them. 69. KOYUKUK FLATS MEANDER SLOUGHS: Extensive well-developed ar~a of river-built wetland landscape in general vicinity of.Three Day Slough. Oxbows, meander scrolls and related river features along with thaw lakes, with pond-dominated wetlands atop extensive low benches bordering each side of river bottoms.

44

42 42

and and the the lower lower ends ends of of its its tributaries tributaries have have incised incised themselves themselves into into

Flowing Flowing through through benchlands benchlands and and low low rolling rolling hills, hills, the the main main river river

Alaskan Alaskan section section of of large large Porcupine Porcupine River River in in deep deep gorge. gorge.

a. a. Upper Upper Ramparts: Ramparts: Brick-orange Brick-orange rock rock cliffs cliffs hem hem in in uppermost uppermost

57. 57. PORCUPINE PORCUPINE RIVER RIVER GORGE: GORGE:

INTERIOR INTERIOR Division Division (Vegetation: (Vegetation: boreal boreal forest) forest)

end end of of cliffs. cliffs.

tions tions of of fur fur seal seal harems harems in in rookeries rookeries along along bouldery bouldery coasts coasts on on each each

of of seabirds seabirds on on earth, earth, which which swirl swirl far far out out to to sea. sea. Large Large concentra­

into into Bering Bering Sea. Sea. Seasonally Seasonally hosts hosts one one of of the the greatest greatest concentrations concentrations

all all along along northwest northwest coast coast of of St. St. George George Island Island of of pribilofs, pribilofs, plunging plunging

56. 56. FOX FOX CASTLE CASTLE BIRD BIRD CLIFFS: CLIFFS: Strikingly Strikingly eroded eroded very very high high rim rim of of cliffs cliffs

spit spit off off Hagemeister Hagemeister Strait. Strait. Very Very colorful colorful pebbles pebbles along along beaches. beaches.

mainland mainland to to west, west, Tongue Tongue Point Point to to north, north, and and extremely extremely long long narrow narrow

55. 55. HAGEMEISTER HAGEMEISTER ISLAND ISLAND SPITS: SPITS: Very Very long, long, narrow narrow Asigyukpak Asigyukpak Spit Spit on on

layered, layered, contorted contorted rock rock formations formations of of various various shades. shades.

by by large large numbers numbers of of nesting nesting seabirds. seabirds. Face Face of of cliffs cliffs thinly thinly

uplands uplands into into Bering Bering Sea Sea with with very very high high cliffs, cliffs, favored favored seasonally seasonally

54. 54. CAPE CAPE NEWENHAM: NEWENHAM: Capes Capes Newenham Newenham and and Peirce, Peirce, dropping dropping from from rolling rolling

Favored Favored grazing grazing area area of of Pleistocene Pleistocene relic, relic, the the muskox. muskox.

tip tip of of Nunivak Nunivak Island, Island, extensive extensive low low dunes dunes and and beaches beaches of of peninsula. peninsula.

River River with with a a number number of of lakes lakes at at its its head. head. To To south, south, at at the the south south

volcanic volcanic formation formation with with explosion explosion craters, craters, carved carved by by Duchikmiut Duchikmiut

53. 53. ROBERTS ROBERTS MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN CRATERS-CAPE CRATERS-CAPE MENDENHALL MENDENHALL DUNES: DUNES: Roberts Roberts Mountain, Mountain,

annually. annually.

Cape Cape Mohican Mohican at at tip, tip, hosting hosting hugh hugh numb!'rs numb!'rs .of .of nesting nesting seabirds seabirds

of of Nunivak Nunivak Island, Island, with with low low volcanic volcanic peak peak at at base, base, and and high high cliffs, cliffs,

52. 52. CAPE CAPE MOHICAN MOHICAN BIRD BIRD CLIFFS: CLIFFS: Peninsula Peninsula jut,ting jut,ting from from northwest northwest corner corner

by by very very high high jagged jagged dark dark pinnacles pinnacles of of lava. lava.

rock. rock. Pinnacle Pinnacle Island Island with with small small segment segment of of gravel gravel beach, beach, backed backed

growth growth of of mosses mosses and and other other small small plants, plants, contrasting contrasting with with bare bare

seabirds seabirds nest. nest. Dark Dark volcanic volcanic bedded bedded rocks, rocks, with with remarkable remarkable green green

with with series series of of cliffs cliffs and and intervening intervening ledges ledges where where large large numbers numbers of of

in in middle middle of of Bering Bering Sea. Sea. Cape Cape Upright Upright and and Glory Glory of of Russia Russia Cape Cape

51. 51. ST. ST. MATTHEW MATTHEW ISLAND ISLAND GROUP: GROUP: St. St. Matthew, Matthew, Hall, Hall, and and Pinnacle Pinnacle Islands Islands

the the high high cliff cliff at at Cape Cape Romanzof. Romanzof.

Isolated Isolated mountains mountains to to 2300 2300 feet, feet, breaking breaking off off into into Bering Bering Sea Sea in in

of of four four spits spits (Panowat (Panowat the the longest), longest), and and adjacent adjacent island island beaches. beaches.

waterbirds waterbirds may may be be seen. seen. Between Between Hooper Hooper Bay Bay and and Scammon Scammon Bay, Bay, series series

ponds, ponds, where where North North America's America's most most diverse diverse assemblage assemblage of of subarctic subarctic

the the vast vast Yukon Yukon Delta, Delta, with with its its network network of of distributaries distributaries and and tundra tundra

in in small small area area of of remarkable remarkable diversity diversity of of landscapes. landscapes. Portion Portion of of

50. 50. KOKECHIK KOKECHIK BAY BAY SPITS-ASKINUK SPITS-ASKINUK MOUNTAIN-YUKON MOUNTAIN-YUKON PELTA PELTA SEGMENT: SEGMENT: Combination Combination

Sides Sides carved carved by by formerly formerly higher higher sea sea into into high high wave-cut wave-cut cliffs. cliffs.

generally generally steep-sided, steep-sided, except except where where streams streams have have eroded eroded into into it. it.

s'harply s'harply from from it, it, rather rather flat flat topped topped block-shaped block-shaped mountain mountain of of lava, lava,

marine marine platform platform at at eastern eastern edge edge of of St. St. Lawrence Lawrence Island. Island. Rising Rising

49. 49. KINIPAGHULGHAT KINIPAGHULGHAT MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN AND AND MARINE MARINE PLATFORM: PLATFORM: Raised Raised rather rather flat flat Narrow southern limb of Brooks Range, separated by trough from main portion. Mountains low but ruggedly glacial-carved. Series of large rock-basin lakes in narrow canyons carved by melt rivers from former glaciers to north. Cliffs and pinnacles common. Many alpine tarns. 35. AKILLIK RIVER AND PASS: Baird Mountains with streams primarily eroding upstream from south side, forming a hydrographic divide nearly at north edge of Brooks Range, well north of physiographic divide, i.e., main set of ridges. Thus, rivers such as Akillik cut around behind these high ridges, forming narrow gorges with dramatic canyon scenery, and leading to open low passes intensively used by migrating caribou. Many tarns. 36. DELONG MOUNTAINS AND TARNS: Headwaters of stream cutting into south flank of DeLongs, Bordering north rim of Noatak valley, identical in formation to stream-cut topography (above) in Bairds on south rim. Series of such rivers, most notably upper drainages of Kaluktavik and Kugururok, where curved headward portions form remarkable series of east-west passes at very edge of Arctic foot­ hills to north, forming outstanding travel ways for caribou and man. Utukok headwaters at north. Scattered tarns in relatively low but ruggedly glacier-carved bedded mountains. 37. NOATAK CANYON-NARVAKRAK LAKE: Long narrow mountain valley, areas of high bluffs along single-channeled Noatak River, adjacent large basin lake. Evident glacial features at west edge of late-Pleisto­ cene glaciation. Expansive vistas of low mountains enclosed in vast Noatak valley. 38. SALMON RIVER: Small clear gentle stream bordered by patchwork of spruce forest, deciduous low brush, and tundra. Low rock bluffs along river. Riffles and deep pools, with blue river color inten­ sified by jade particles widely distributed in river sands and gravels.

WESTERN TUNDRA Subdivision

39. CAPE KRUSENSTERN-IGICHUK HILLS: a. Cape Krusenstern: Very extensive series of narrow successively deposited beach ridges between curve of Cape Krusenstern and lagoon inside. Striking visual small-scale pattern as ·seen from adjacent ridge or plane. Easily seen evidences of early man's camps and house pits. Beyond the cape, smooth open tundra, inset with small clusters of whitish-gray chalky bare hills sharply·contrasting with tundra. Sheshalik Spit at east end of beach patterned like Cape Krusenstern. Series of fringing lagoons behind beaches. Rocky bluffs behind lagoons in places. 40. KOBUK DELTA: Park of vast complex of deltas, estuaries, and ponds where Kobuk, Noatak, and Selawik rivers are filling embayment at mouths. Kopuk Delta a pattern of distributaries reaching out ih spreading pattern beyond oxbows and sloughs of river upstream.

40 Lake, atop peculiar wide flat east-we·st basin lying nearly astride the divide. b. Loon Lake: A bouldery-edged small lake just above tree line set amidst steep rock walls at the head of a south-flowing drainage. Snow Bunting Lakes, tarns at the head of its valley. An area of wide steeply-rimmed valleys, with tarns in side valleys. Wide and gentle to. th~ south, though deep within the mountains. 27. WILD'LAKE: A rather long lake with beaches set in a narrow valley in open woods just south of the tree limit, with fairly gentle slopes leading to pinnacles on Surr Mountain to the northwest and a series of high ponds to the northeast. Deep within the South Slope of the mountains. 28. JOHN RIVER CANYON: A narrow canyon set between Gunsight Mountain and The Sentinels, carved into rather pale smooth massive limestone. A section to the north incised narrowly into recent deposits. Gentle river gradient, with deep blue river set off by rock walls. 29. UPPER KILLIK-KURUPA LAKES AREA: Overlapping the upper foothills, the complex includes rolling tundra interspersed with sharp low· mountains. At the north front of the Rlmge intensively eroded stark pale hills are backed by a steep mountain wall. Sharp horns occur near the east end, and tarns and hanging valley are numerous. a. Kurupa Lakes: A pair of narrow deep blue moraine-dammed lakes at the foot of massive rugged mountains. A setting which Detterman (USGS) considers "the most spectacular scenery in the Arctic lowlands." Gray limestone cliffs along the south wall contrast with vari-colored chert on the north side, and highly folded layers in the valley walls. A broad U-shaped valley to the south terminates in a group of cirque lakes. b. Upper Killik River: Montane portion flows slowly through pond-like section. Set in an exceptionally wide valley, the river is bordered by high rock-ribbed mountains cut by deep side canyons. The river bottom is.incised into finely laminated lake bottom sediments, in places capped by partially stabilized sand dunes of considerable height. Outstanding examples are found of depositional glacial topography with a remarkable series of many types of moraines. Long winding bouldery rapids have developed where the river crosses sets of end moraines. 30. ALATNA-NIGU HEADWATERS HIGH BASIN: A high gentle-floored basin, with radiating valleys of great width, yet lying near the height of land.· At the headwaters of the Nigu, Killik, and Alatna Rivers, with numerous ponds and tarns, and exposed bedrock along the valley floor to the northwest. 31. ARRIGETCH-ALATNA AREA: a. Mt. Igikpak: A snaggle-toothed peak, far higher than surround­ ing mountains, at the center of an area of granitic rocks forming walls and spires, yet bordered on the west by the gentle Tupik Creek-Reed River valley connected via Angiaak Pass.

38

36 36

Philip Philip Smith Smith Mountains. Mountains.

directly directly beneath beneath exc.eptionally exc.eptionally rugged rugged glaciated glaciated portion portion of of

connecting connecting head head of of Ribdon Ribdon South South Fork Fork and and Accomplishment Accomplishment Creek, Creek,

a. a. Ribdon-Accomplishment Ribdon-Accomplishment Low Low Pass: Pass: Open Open east-west east-west pass pass and and tarn tarn

20. 20. NORTHWEST NORTHWEST PHILIP PHILIP SMITH SMITH MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS:

and and Lobo Lobo Lakes.· Lakes.·

open open and and closed closed woodland. woodland. Area Area roughly roughly between between Ambresvajun Ambresvajun (Last) (Last)

transitional transitional at at ecotone ecotone between between forest forest and and tundra, tundra, with with patches patches of of

of of U-shaped U-shaped mountain mountain valley, valley, a a striking striking contrast. contrast. Vegetation Vegetation

19. 19. · · UPPER UPPER SHEENJEK SHEENJEK RIVER: RIVER: Abundant Abundant ponds ponds and and lakes lakes throughout throughout section section

boreal boreal forest forest at at lower lower elevations) elevations)

BROOKS BROOKS RANGE RANGE Division Division (North (North Slope Slope vegetation vegetation is is tundra, tundra, South South Slope Slope is is

deeply deeply dissected dissected in in V-shaped V-shaped gorges. gorges.

coast, coast, topographic topographic feature feature nowhere nowhere else else found found in in northern northern Alaska, Alaska,

Very Very compact compact range range of of rugged rugged low low mountains mountains directly directly adjacent adjacent to to

folded, folded, contrasting contrasting shades. shades. Very Very large'bird large'bird colony colony in in summer. summer.

coastal coastal cliffs cliffs elsewhere elsewhere in in Alaska. Alaska. Strata Strata in in cliff cliff face face highly highly

by by the the sea. sea. Gray Gray fossilized fossilized limestone limestone cliffs, cliffs, unlike unlike the the many many

18. 18. CAPE CAPE LISBURNE-LISBURNE LISBURNE-LISBURNE HILLS:. HILLS:. The The Brooks Brooks Range Range is is here here truncated truncated

plain plain to to north north and and canyon canyon country country to to south. south.

northernmost northernmost cuesta, cuesta, thinly thinly bedded, bedded, with with contrasting contrasting vistas vistas of. of.

1700-foot 1700-foot high high very very dissected dissected mesa. mesa. To To north, north, Amatusuk·Hills, Amatusuk·Hills,

elsewhere elsewhere represented represented significantly significantly in in Alaska. Alaska. Poko Poko Mountain, Mountain,

This This is is the the most most scenic scenic area area of of Arctic Arctic lowlands, lowlands, of of a a character character not not

upland upland just just west west of of Kukpowruk Kukpowruk River, River, excellent excellent viewpoint. viewpoint.

b. b. Igloo Igloo Mesa: Mesa: Kidney-shaped Kidney-shaped 1500-foot 1500-foot high high mesa mesa above above gentle gentle

feet. feet. Mesas Mesas and and ridges ridges further further dissected dissected by by tributary tributary streams. streams.

canyon canyon country country in in character character though though not not scale. scale. Relief Relief 1000 1000

and and ridge ridge topography" topography" (Detterman, (Detterman, USGS) USGS) similar similar to to southwest southwest

a. a. Kukpowruk Kukpowruk Entrenched Entrenched River: River: "A "A magnificant magnificant section section of of canyon canyon

17 17 . . KUKPOWRUK KUKPOWRUK HpGBACKS HpGBACKS AND AND ENTRENCHMENTS: ENTRENCHMENTS:

trations trations visible visible during during calving calving season. season.

Little Little known known but but very very striking striking canyonlands canyonlands country. country. Caribou Caribou concen­

gentle gentle uplands, uplands, with with trellis-shaped trellis-shaped drainage drainage patterns patterns developing. developing.

taries, taries, most most notably notably Canyon Canyon Creek, Creek, have have cut cut very very deep deep canyons canyons into into

heads, heads, forming forming cliffs. cliffs. This This area area of of upper upper Utukok Utukok River River and and tribu­

tion. tion. Disappointment Disappointment Ridge, Ridge, deeply deeply cut cut by by encroaching encroaching drainage drainage

Lookout Lookout Ridge Ridge in in this this area area carved carved into into nearly nearly diamond-shaped diamond-shaped forma­

cutting cutting into into cuesta. cuesta.

gentle gentle on on the the other) other) 1000 1000 feet feet above above base. base. Adjacent Adjacent drainages drainages

,Archimedes ,Archimedes Ridge: Ridge: ~· ~· Long Long linear linear cuesta cuesta (steep (steep on on one one side, side,

16. 16. UPPER UPPER UTUKOK UTUKOK HOGBACKS HOGBACKS AND AND ENTRENCHMENT: ENTRENCHMENT:

are are often often seen. seen. Very Very long long offshore offshore bar. bar.

dunes. dunes. Marine Marine and and lagoon lagoon deposits deposits at at Icy Icy Cape, Cape, where where marine marine mammals mammals

spits spits enclosing enclosing a a lagoon lagoon and and estuary estuary system. system. Stabilized. Stabilized. and and active active

15. 15. KASEGALUK KASEGALUK LAGOON-ICY LAGOON-ICY CAPE: CAPE: Outstanding Outstanding offshore offshore bar bar with with compound compound

side side canyons, canyons, entrenched entrenched into into gentle gentle upland. upland.

14. 14. AWUNA AWUNA ENTRENCHED ENTRENCHED RIVER: RIVER: Canyon Canyon several several hundred hundred feet feet deep, deep, with with

34 34

ice. ice. Smooth Smooth massive massive bare bare slopes slopes facing facing the the lowlands. lowlands.

cottonwood cottonwood grove. grove. Extensive Extensive permanent permanent field field of of stream stream overflow overflow

a. a. Echooka Echooka Springs Springs and and Aufeis: Aufeis: Large Large year-round year-round springs, springs, fine fine

3. 3. ECHOOKA-IVISHAK ECHOOKA-IVISHAK MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN FRONT: FRONT:

Brooks Brooks Range. Range.

stretches stretches an an extensive extensive vista, vista, backed backed by by the the high high ridges ridges of of the the

The The complex complex extends extends northward northward to to the the Arctic Arctic Ocean Ocean beach beach from from which which

with with tributary'McCall tributary'McCall valley, valley, exhibit exhibit outstanding outstanding glacial glacial deposits. deposits.

Western Western edge edge is is Jago Jago Valley, Valley, whose whose upper upper foothill foothill region, region, along along

River River into into plateau. plateau. Limestone Limestone outcrop outcrop in in Katakturuk Katakturuk Fold Fold to to north. north.

badlands badlands of of brightly brightly colored colored rocks, rocks, deep deep canyon canyon carved carved by by Katakturuk Katakturuk

north north flank flank of of nor.thernmost nor.thernmost Sadlerochit Sadlerochit Range, Range, rolling rolling hills hills and and

Slope, Slope, cottonwood cottonwood grove grove in in sea sea of of tundra. tundra. Katakturuk Katakturuk Plateau Plateau on on

mountains. mountains. Shublik Shublik Springs Springs along along Canning, Canning, largest largest on on Arctic Arctic

Valley, Valley, also also fringed fringed with with the the highest highest most most glaciated glaciated Brooks Brooks Range Range

east-west east-west valleys, valleys, separating separating three three parallel parallel ranges. ranges. Broad,Hulahula· Broad,Hulahula·

this this northern northern extension extension of of Brooks Brooks Range, Range, with with lateral lateral vistas vistas up up the the

Canning Canning River. River. Canning Canning River River strikingly strikingly scenic scenic along along west west edge edge of of

1 Unusual Unusual series series .of .of east-west east-west interconnecting interconnecting valleys valleys leading leading to to . .

foothills. foothills.

closely closely fringing fringing river. river. Moraine Moraine pairs pairs and and sand sand dunes dunes in in

c. c. Okpilak Okpilak Valley: Valley: Exceptionally Exceptionally rugged·glaciated rugged·glaciated mountains mountains

Range, Range, adjacent adjacent to to lakes. lakes.

penetrates penetrates high high peaks. peaks. Mt. Mt. Chamberlin, Chamberlin, highest highest in in Brooks Brooks

one one of of few few in in northeast northeast Brooks Brooks Range; Range; Carnivore Carnivore Creek Creek valley valley

b. b. Peters-Schraaer Peters-Schraaer (Neruokuk) (Neruokuk) Lakes: Lakes: These These connected connected lakes lakes are are

Ignek Ignek Mesa Mesa viewpoint viewpoint for for valley. valley.

Brooks Brooks Range, Range, striking striking vari-colored vari-colored strata. strata. Diverse Diverse fossils. fossils.

a. a. Ignek Ignek Valley: Valley: East-west East-west valley valley within within northern northern extension extension of of

2. 2. SADLEROCHIT-ROMANZOF SADLEROCHIT-ROMANZOF FOOTHILLS FOOTHILLS AND AND MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS TO TO COAST: COAST:

Lagoons, Lagoons, Aichilik Aichilik River River delta, delta, wet wet tundra tundra on on shore. shore.

l. l. BEAUFORT BEAUFORT LAGOONS-ICY LAGOONS-ICY REEF: REEF: Offshore Offshore sand sand bar, bar, Beaufort Beaufort and and Nuvagapak Nuvagapak

ARCTIC ARCTIC LOWLANDS LOWLANDS Subdivision Subdivision (Tundra) (Tundra)

or or less less closely closely related related terrain. terrain.

boundaries, boundaries, whereas, whereas, others others grade grade less less definably definably into into less less significant significant

indicated indicated on on a a map, map, that that some some tracts tracts carr carr be be delineated delineated with with very very precise precise

designation. designation. It It is is also also recognized, recognized, though though it it cannot cannot conveniently conveniently be be

and and the the differences differences between between them them are are sufficient sufficient to to warrant warrant separate separate

cases, cases, it it is is judged judged that that the the relationships relationships within within each each of of the the tracts, tracts,

designated designated tracts, tracts, usually usually scenic scenic complexes, complexes, are are contiguous. contiguous. In In those those

larger larger scenic scenic complex complex is is given given a a letter. letter. In In some some cases, cases, two two separately separately

scenic scenic complex, complex, is is given given a a number. number. Each Each visual visual unit unit contained contained within within a a

that that labeled labeled on on Map Map 3. 3. Each Each separate separate tract, tract, whether whether a a visual visual unit unit or or a a

to to be be of of particular particular 'significance. 'significance. Numbering Numbering in in this this section section follows follows

Listed Listed below below are are those those units units considered, considered, based based on on the the criteria criteria presented, presented,

OUTSTANDING OUTSTANDING OR OR REPRESENTATIVE REPRESENTATIVE VISUAL VISUAL UNITS UNITS AND AND SCENIC SCENIC COMPLEXES COMPLEXES

32 32

perfect perfect matterhorn matterhorn peak. peak.

behind behind which which towers towers Saint Saint Elias, Elias, appearing appearing from from this this point point as as a a

across across wide wide Yakutat Yakutat Bay Bay to to the the white white piedmont piedmont Malaspina Malaspina Glacier, Glacier,

spruce spruce forests forests whose whose limbs limbs are are coated coated by by deep deep moss, moss, northwest northwest

QQ. QQ. OCEAN OCEAN CAPE CAPE AT AT YAKUTAT YAKUTAT BAY: BAY: Very Very wide wide fine fine sand sand beaches, beaches, rimmed rimmed by by

Pacific. Pacific.

earth, earth, and and its its rock-ribbed rock-ribbed neighbors. neighbors. To To the the right right lies lies the the broad broad

topped topped bulk bulk of of Mount Mount Saint Saint Elias, Elias, coastal coastal mountain mountain on on high~st high~st

its its calving calving glaciers, glaciers, over over hills hills and and vast vast icefields icefields to to the the pinnacle­

terraces terraces and and cliffs cliffs of of foreground foreground lead lead the the eye eye across across Icy Icy Bay Bay with with

PP. PP. EAST EAST RIDGE RIDGE OF OF ROBINSON ROBINSON MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS OVER OVER ICY ICY BAY: BAY: Rocky Rocky layered layered

enclosure. enclosure.

volcanoes volcanoes than than any any other other in in Alaska Alaska which which gives gives a a partial partial sense sense of of

Four Four Mountains. Mountains. This This vista vista encompasses encompasses more more individually individually striking striking

tion, tion, the the more more distant distant symmetrical symmetrical volcano volcano of of the the Islands Islands of of the the

jagged jagged Rechesnoi Rechesnoi on on nearby nearby Umnak Umnak Island, Island, and and in in the the opposite opposite direc­

00. 00. ANANGULA ANANGULA ISLAND: ISLAND: View View over over saltwater saltwater at at rounded rounded Vsevidof Vsevidof and and

Volcano, Volcano, and and out out over over grassy grassy plains plains to to the the seas seas to to north north and and south. south.

volcano volcano of of lsanotski lsanotski and and the the classic classic Fuji-like Fuji-like high high cone cone of of Shishaldin Shishaldin

and and extensive extensive uplands uplands toward toward the the contrasting contrasting needle-topped needle-topped eroded eroded

NN. NN. TUGAMAK TUGAMAK RIDGE RIDGE ON ON UNIMAK UNIMAK ISLAND: ISLAND: From From rim rim of of caldera caldera across across lake lake

landscapes landscapes from from wooded wooded plains plains to to snowy snowy volcanoes. volcanoes.

this this extensive extensive vista, vista, tying tying into into one one visual visual experience experience a a variety variety of of

mountains mountains and and snowy snowy volcanoes volcanoes far far to to south. south. Naknek Naknek Lake Lake unifies unifies

gentle gentle wooded wooded uplands, uplands, with with higher higher hills hills grading grading into into multi-layered multi-layered

MM. MM. DUMPLING DUMPLING MOUNTAIN: MOUNTAIN: Viewpoint Viewpoint above above Brooks Brooks Camp, Camp, looking looking out out over over

streams streams at at the the bottom bottom and and set set off off by by a a mountain mountain wall wall at at the the east. east.

rimmed rimmed on on three three s:i,des, s:i,des, by by low low rounded rounded series series of of hills, hills, small small clear clear

define define an an extensive extensive vista vista of of a a very very large large visually visually enclosed enclosed basin, basin,

equal equal distance distance to to east. east. This This and and the the previous previous viewpoint viewpoint help help

west, west, and and more more distantly distantly to to south, south, and and the the Chigmit Chigmit Mountain Mountain wall wall at at

upper upper Mulchatna Mulchatna Canyon Canyon is is seen, seen, with with a a rim rim of of low low hills hills to to north, north,

LL. LL. BONANZA BONANZA HILLS: HILLS: Low Low yet yet glacier-scoured glacier-scoured hills, hills, through through which which the the

far far to to the the east. east.

the the Chigmit Chigmit Mountains Mountains seemingly seemingly form form a a wall wall from from which which lakes lakes protrude, protrude,

Chilikadrotna Chilikadrotna and and Mulchatna Mulchatna Rivers Rivers with with widely widely scattered scattered low low hills; hills;

topped topped round round hills, hills, from from which which one one looks looks across across flat flat basin basin of of

KK. KK. HALFWAY HALFWAY MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN ABOVE ABOVE MULCHATNA MULCHATNA RIVER: RIVER: Low Low birch-flanked birch-flanked tundra­

crest crest of of the the Kenai Kenai Mountains. Mountains. · ·

and and beyond beyond the the blue blue waters waters of of the the bay, bay, and and the the glaciers glaciers and and ragged ragged

spruce spruce woods woods and and meadows meadows in in foreground, foreground, Homer Homer Spit Spit in in middle middle distance, distance,

Highway Highway from from which which Kachemak Kachemak Bay Bay is is first first visible, visible, with with interspersed interspersed

JJ. JJ. KACHEMAK KACHEMAK BAY BAY OVERLOOK: OVERLOOK: Not Not far far south south of of II, II, rise rise on on Sterling Sterling

often often visible. visible.

ful ful volcanic volcanic cones cones of of Iliamna Iliamna and and Redoubt, Redoubt, with with wisps wisps of of steam steam

at at the the sharp-peaked sharp-peaked Chigmit Chigmit Mountains, Mountains, far far overtopped overtopped by by the the grace­

II. II. ANCHOR ANCHOR POINT: POINT: Looking Looking west west from from Sterling Sterling Highway Highway across across Cook Cook Inlet Inlet

and and glaciers glaciers pouring pouring out out from from the the mountains. mountains.

looking looking north north across across lower lower hills hills and and basins basins at at Denali, Denali, Alaska Alaska Range Range

HH. HH. MOUNT MOUNT YENLO: YENLO: High High tundra tundra dome dome surrounded surrounded by by upper upper Yentna Yentna valley, valley,

30 30

river, river, black black rock rock face face of of volcanic volcanic mountain mountain behind, behind, with with white white

view, view, with with open open river river bench bench in in foreground, foreground, roaring roaring gray gray glacial glacial

U. U. UPPER UPPER KUSKULANA KUSKULANA RIVER RIVER TO\o(ARD TO\o(ARD MOUNT MOUNT BLACKBURN: BLACKBURN: Classic Classic mountain mountain

Basin. Basin.

and and fringing fringing apron apron of of the the western western Wrangells Wrangells to to the the populated populated Copper Copper

These These two two vistas vistas anchor anchor the the extensive extensive view view which which tie tie the the volcanoes volcanoes

jagged jagged Mount Mount Drum Drum and and long long smooth smooth snow snow ridge ridge of of Mount Mount Wrangell. Wrangell.

T. T. WRANGELLS WRANGELLS OVERLOOK OVERLOOK NEAR NEAR CHITINA: CHITINA: Rather Rather similar similar view, view, toward toward

volcanoes. volcanoes.

even even slope slope to to high high dome dome of of Mount Mount Sanford Sanford other other high high Wrangells Wrangells ~nd ~nd

down down across across incised incised Copper Copper River River and and wet wet lowlands, lowlands, up up very very long long

S. S. WRANGELLS WRANGELLS OVERLOOK OVERLOOK NEAR NEAR SLANA: SLANA: From From hills hills next next to to Glenn Glenn Highway, Highway,

high high snow snow peaks peaks of of Wrangells, Wrangells, with with valley valley laKes laKes just just below. below.

river, river, and and up up to to and and far far across across smooth smooth Nabesna Nabesna Glacier, Glacier, rimmed rimmed by by

sweeping sweeping views views down down valley valley and and into into canyon canyon of of Nabesna Nabesna glacial glacial

R. R. MOUND MOUND IN IN FRONT FRONT OF OF NABESNA NABESNA GLACIER: GLACIER: From From tundra-topped tundra-topped rough rough hill, hill,

Natazhat Natazhat and and row row of of snowy snowy peaks peaks behind. behind.

the the lakes; lakes; Rock Rock Lake Lake and and vast vast White White River River valley valley beyond, beyond, with with Mount Mount

rimmed rimmed Ptarmigan Ptarmigan Lake Lake basin basin below, below, narrow narrow slot slot along along edge, edge, connecting connecting

Q. Q. RIDGE RIDGE ABOVE ABOVE PTARMIGAN PTARMIGAN AND AND ROCK ROCK LAKES: LAKES: Spruce-patch Spruce-patch and and meadow meadow

Mountains Mountains to to south. south.

Flats Flats to to north, north, and and pale pale craggy craggy limestone limestone peaks peaks and and gorges gorges of of White White

P. P. MOUNT MOUNT SCHWATKA: SCHWATKA: Overlook Overlook of of pitted pitted lake-strewn lake-strewn uplands uplands and and Yukon Yukon

sweep sweep of of Wood Wood River River Mountains Mountains and and Lakes, Lakes, one one after after another. another.

0. 0. ALEKNAGIK ALEKNAGIK LAKE LAKE ROAD: ROAD: Rise Rise looking looking northwest northwest from from road road gives gives sudden sudden

portion portion of of lake. lake.

extending extending out out from from mountains, mountains, and and rugged rugged peaks peaks rimming rimming upper upper

offers offers contrasting contrasting vista vista of of open open woodland woodland below, below, various various lakes lakes

N. N. RIDGE RIDGE ABOVE ABOVE LAKE LAKE BEVERLEY: BEVERLEY: Above Above Hard Hard Luck Luck Bay Bay of of the the lake, lake, ridge ridge

pond-filled pond-filled tundra tundra plain plain to to the the west. west.

deep deep canyon canyon to to the the east, east, and and gentle gentle hills hills merging merging with with endless endless

across across tundra tundra and and cottonwood-covered cottonwood-covered rolling rolling uplands uplands leading leading to to a a

M. M. KILBUCK KILBUCK MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS ALONG ALONG KISARALIK KISARALIK RIVER: RIVER: Vista Vista up up small small river river

open open Bering Bering Sea Sea visible visible to to west. west.

most most productive productive nesting nesting area area with with sloughs sloughs and and ponds, ponds, with with spits spits and and

L. L. ASKINUK ASKINUK MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS: Rocky Rocky volcanic volcanic hills hills on on Yukon Yukon Delta, Delta, overlooking overlooking

along along edges. edges.

of of which which seem seem tied tied together together by by view view from from dunes dunes within within or or hilltops hilltops

rugged rugged Brooks Brooks Range. Range. Sense Sense of of enclosure enclosure in in vast vast basin, basin, all all parts parts

tree-rimmed tree-rimmed basin, basin, tundra tundra topped topped hills hills and and backed backed on on one one side side by by

similar similar to to that that in in Lake Lake Clark Clark western western foothills, foothills, with with wooded wooded flat flat

rimmed rimmed by by lichen-floored lichen-floored open open woodland. woodland. Example Example of of unified unified vista vista

K. K. KOBUK KOBUK SAND SAND DUNES: DUNES: Pale Pale rolling rolling sand sand dunes, dunes, cut cut by by little little streams, streams,

Brooks Brooks Range. Range.

in in rocky rocky gorges, gorges, across across gentle gentle upland upland toward toward south south front front of of main main

J. J. ANGAYUCHAM ANGAYUCHAM MOUNTAINS: MOUNTAINS: Close Close view view of of lakes lakes such such as as Selby Selby enclosed enclosed

wooded wooded base. base.

walled walled narrow narrow canyon canyon of of lower lower John John River River through through limestone, limestone, with with

TI!REE TI!REE TIME TIME I. I. MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN IN IN JOHN JOHN RIVER RIVER VALLEY: VALLEY: Overlook Overlook of of smooth­

28 28

two two sides. sides.

whose whose evidences evidences remain. remain. Groups Groups of of high high snow-covered snow-covered volcanoes volcanoes on on

nocturnal nocturnal seabirds; seabirds; former former hunting hunting outpost outpost of of early early man man in in Alaska, Alaska,

p. p. ANANGULA ANANGULA ISLAND: ISLAND: Small Small lush lush grassy grassy island, island, home home to to eerily-calling eerily-calling

walls walls and and small small volcano volcano cone; cone; diverse diverse volcanic volcanic features. features.

o. o. OKMOK OKMOK CALDERA: CALDERA: Steaming Steaming volcano volcano floor floor miles miles across, across, with with steep steep

swarms swarms of of seabirds seabirds and and sea sea lions. lions.

of of granitic granitic sea sea islets, islets, covered covered with with grassy grassy meadows meadows and and large large

n. n. SEMIDI SEMIDI ISLANDS: ISLANDS: Sharply-etched Sharply-etched sea sea cliffs, cliffs, haystacks, haystacks, and and pinnacles pinnacles

alder-covered alder-covered walls, walls, and and ice-hung ice-hung peaks. peaks.

large large braided braided glacial glacial river, river, bordered bordered by by a a gorge, gorge, calving calving glacier, glacier,

m. m. LOWER LOWER COPPER COPPER RIVER RIVER CANYON: CANYON: Immense Immense canyon, canyon, wide wide floor floor occupied occupied by by

tion. tion.

ponds, ponds, abruptly abruptly bordered bordered by by round round tundra tundra mountains; mountains; diverse diverse vegeta­

1. 1. ROCK-PTARMIGAN ROCK-PTARMIGAN LAKES LAKES TRENCH: TRENCH: Narrow Narrow slot, slot, floored floored by by six six successive successive

canyon. canyon.

entrance entrance to to the the high high steep steep multi-layered multi-layered walls walls and and deep deep flat flat floored floored

k. k. CHITISTONE CHITISTONE CANYON-TRUMPETER CANYON-TRUMPETER LAKE: LAKE: Small. Small. lake lake with with waterbirds waterbirds at at

Range. Range.

across across tarns tarns and and Wonder Wonder Lake Lake toward toward Denali Denali and and white white wall wall of of Alaska Alaska

j. j. SOUTHWEST SOUTHWEST KANTISHNA KANTISHNA HILLS: HILLS: Viewing Viewing platform platform in in Camp Camp Denali Denali area, area,

cliffs cliffs near near head. head.

one one end, end, leading leading into into high high jagged jagged mountains, mountains, bordered bordered by by bluffs bluffs and and

i. i. KONTRASHIBUNA KONTRASHIBUNA LAKE: LAKE: Long Long narrow narrow glacial glacial lake, lake, with with beaches beaches near near

other other with with pond pond set set in in pass. pass.

etched etched crags crags down down one one side, side, smooth smooth orange-flecked orange-flecked ridges ridges down down the the

h. h. NECONS-CHILLIGAN NECONS-CHILLIGAN PASS: PASS: In In Lake Lake Clark Clark country, country, contrast contrast of of sharply­

and and tundra tundra meadows. meadows.

succession succession of of high high rocky rocky bluffs, bluffs, rapid rapid clear clear river, river, wooded wooded banks, banks,

g. g. CHARLEY CHARLEY RIVER: RIVER: Between Between Copper Copper Creek Creek and and bas·e bas·e of of mountains, mountains, with with

by by low low but but very very rough rough jumble jumble of of partly partly vegetated vegetated lava lava flow. flow.

f. f. LAVA LAVA LAKE: LAKE: Small Small lake lake bordered bordered partly partly by by beach beach and and tundra, tundra, partly partly

Mountains Mountains behind. behind.

abundant abundant nesting nesting waterbirds, waterbirds, and and sharp sharp glacier-carved glacier-carved Kigluaik Kigluaik

e. e. IMURUK IMURUK BASIN: BASIN: Large Large salt salt lake, lake, bordered bordered by by petroglyphs, petroglyphs, with with

past past human human use. use.

ridged ridged and· and· swales swales paralleling paralleling ocean, ocean, each each with with distinct distinct evidence evidence of of

d. d. CAPE CAPE KRUSENSTERN: KRUSENSTERN: Rounded Rounded gravel gravel cape cape with with innumerable innumerable narrow narrow

above. above.

meadows meadows set set in in rocky rocky gorge gorge of of Brooks Brooks Range Range spur; spur; sharp sharp pinnacles pinnacles

c. c. SELBY-NARVAK SELBY-NARVAK LAKE: LAKE: Hourglass Hourglass shaped shaped lake lake with with beaches beaches and and sloping sloping

valley. valley.

mountains mountains of of various various shapes shapes and and textures; textures; Arrigetch Arrigetch Peaks Peaks up up side side

slowly slowly meanders, meanders, with with many many ponds, ponds, bordered bordered by by massive massive bare-rock bare-rock

0 b. b. ALATNA ALATNA CANYON: CANYON: Wide Wide wooded wooded canyon canyon thr ugq ugq which which Alatna Alatna River River

bedded bedded mountains mountains and and narrow narrow craggy craggy side side valleys. valleys.

a. a. ULO ULO VALLEY: VALLEY: Wide Wide tundra tundra valley valley bordered bordered by by exceptionally exceptionally rugged rugged

SPECIAL SPECIAL PLACES PLACES

26 26

flows flows into into Lake Lake Iliamna. Iliamna. Very Very rapid, rapid, with with series series of of heavy heavy rapids rapids

Source Source in in lakes lakes in in low low mountains mountains near near Cook Cook Inlet's Inlet's southwest southwest side; side;

32. 32. COPPER COPPER (ILIAMNA): (ILIAMNA): Very Very short short stream, stream, fairly fairly small, small, very very clear. clear.

otherwise-gentle otherwise-gentle uplands. uplands. Flows Flows into into Lake Lake Clark. Clark.

sharp sharp rugged rugged rock rock outcrops, outcrops, both both along along river river itself itself and and in in adjacent adjacent

into into rock-rimmed rock-rimmed small small canyons. canyons. Noteworthy Noteworthy due due to to abundance abundance of of

rapid, rapid, with with ledges ledges and and small small cascades. cascades. Gorge Gorge sections sections where where incised incised

Mountains. Mountains. Open Open boreal boreal forest forest with with meadow meadow areas. areas. River River quite quite

from from headwater headwater lakes lakes across across rolling rolling uplands uplands close close to to base base of of Chigmit Chigmit

31. 31. KOKSETNA: KOKSETNA: Rather Rather small small stream stream with with very very clear clear water. water. Flows Flows in in arc arc

entire entire length. length. Flows Flows into into Lake Lake Clark. Clark.

forest, forest, with with heavy heavy alder-willow alder-willow brush. brush. Rugged Rugged peaks peaks visible visible along along

rapid rapid though though even even flow, flow, beginning beginning from from small small lake lake at at head. head. Boreal Boreal

with with cliffs cliffs and and high high mountain mountain walls walls on on both both sides. sides. Moderately Moderately

Chigmit Chigmit Mountains, Mountains, through through rather rather narrow narrow U-shaped U-shaped alpine alpine valley valley

30. 30. TLIKAKILA: TLIKAKILA: Very Very turbid turbid glacial glacial river river flowing flowing from from low low pass pass in in

readily readily navigable navigable across across upland upland terrain. terrain.

water. water. Very Very gentle, gentle, one one of of smallest smallest rivers rivers in in Alaska Alaska which which is is

Inlet. Inlet. Quite Quite narrow, narrow, very very clear clear except except for for amber amber bog-color bog-color to to

many many lakes, lakes, across across gently gently rolling rolling boreal boreal forest forest plain, plain, into into Cook Cook

29. 29. SWANSON: SWANSON: Source Source in in area area of of morainal morainal hills hills on on Kenai Kenai Peninsula Peninsula with with

gentle, gentle, across across valley valley with with areas areas of of bluffs. bluffs. st~ep st~ep

morainal morainal hills, hills, into into Susitna. Susitna. Luxuriant Luxuriant boreal boreal forest. forest. Fairly Fairly

clear clear except except at at high high water. water. Flows Flows acros.s acros.s rolling rolling uplands, uplands, hummocky hummocky

28. 28. KROTO KROTO (DESHKA): (DESHKA): Rather Rather small small Susitna Susitna Valley Valley stream, stream, generally generally

Gulf Gulf of of Alaska. Alaska.

Extensive Extensive delta, delta, much much favored favored by by waterbirds, waterbirds, before before river river enters enters

rugged rugged steep-walled steep-walled mountains. mountains. Two Two glaciers glaciers calve calve into into river. river.

valley valley with with exposed exposed silt silt and and low low sand sand dunes, dunes, rimmed rimmed by by very very high high

the the Coast Coast Range Range (Chugach (Chugach Mountains) Mountains) with with a a wide wide flat-bottomed flat-bottomed

Canyon, Canyon, then then flows flows with with fast fast steady steady current current and and wide wide braids braids through through

more more turbulent turbulent in in upper upper portions. portions. Lower Lower part part enters enters a a gorge, gorge, Wood Wood

to to boulder boulder high high bluffs bluffs along along edges. edges. Rather Rather rapid rapid flow flow throughout, throughout,

in in rather rather wide wide valley valley bottom bottom with with braids, braids, gravel gravel banks, banks, and and gravel gravel

long long apron apron of of ascending ascending Wrangell Wrangell lavas lavas from from Copper Copper Basin. Basin. Entrenched Entrenched

from from edge edge of of high high Wrangell Wrangell mountains mountains around around large large arc arc separating separating

27. 27. COPPER: COPPER: Very Very large large glacial glacial river, river, heading heading in in glacier, glacier, swinging swinging

and and lake-deposited lake-deposited materials. materials. Boreal Boreal forest. forest.

Entrenched Entrenched in in deep deep slot, slot, with with boulder boulder to to silt silt cutbanks cutbanks into into glacial glacial

rolling rolling Copper Copper (Nelchina) (Nelchina) Basin Basin uplands, uplands, moving moving quite quite rapidly. rapidly.

from from mountain mountain lake lake in in Chugach, Chugach, and and glacier. glacier. They They cross cross gently gently

flout, flout, with with some some glacial glacial color color in in water water as as well. well. Branches Branches begin begin

26. 26. NELCHINA-TAZLINA: NELCHINA-TAZLINA: Fairly Fairly small, small, though though turbid turbid due due to to glacial glacial

Boreal Boreal forest. forest.

intense intense turbulence. turbulence. Lower Lower end end steady steady movement movement but but not not turbulent. turbulent.

white white water water rivers rivers with with high high volume, volume, severe severe constriction; constriction; and and

fast; fast; middle middle canyon canyon portion portion among among the the continent's continent's classic classic powerful powerful

it it enters enters the the rapidly rapidly silting silting head head of of Cook Cook Inlet. Inlet. Upper Upper portion portion Generally fairly clear. Tundra with some willow patches. Mostly slow, with sections of steady current. Broad valley. 12. KISARALIK: Flows through western tundra region into lower Kuskokwim on Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta. Generally clear except turbid at high water, very slight glacial influence. Flows from cirque in Ahklun Mountains, across rolling tundra upland, through Kilbuck Mountains in canyon with scattered cottonwood groves, across foothills ·with rim of boreal forest just along river, then across pond-filled lowlands with alternating tundra, high willow brush, and spruce groves. Mostly fairly gentle with fast steady current, with several canyons having sharp rapids or falls. .Generally in broad valley, except canyon sections. 13. PORCUPINE: Enters from Canada; fairly large, flows across rolling gentle upland benches, then through extensive Yukon Flats wetlands. Boreal forest, mostly of small stature. Gentle flow, though steady and fairly fast through entrenched upper sections, which form colorful cliff-rimmed narrow gorges. Moderately clear to moderately turbid. Lower portion braided with sloughs to junction with Yukon. 14. UNALAKLEET: Fairly small, flowing through narrow valley between low rounded mountains with steep sides, into Norton Sound. Generally very clear. Moderately steady current. Rather short river. Wooded lower slopes, brush to woods on valley bottoms, tundra on hills. 15. SELAWIK: Fairly small, across broad wooded valley rimmed by rounded hills in upper portion, then crossing extensive pond-filled wet plain, ending in extensive delta and estuary system. Waterfowl very evident in season. Clear, except wine-colored bog water influence in lower portion. Gentle, though steady flow in upper portion. Boreal forest, grading to open marsh and tundra near mouth. 16. KOyu,KUK: Main stem is rather large, fairly turbid river, with broad silt to gravel banks and clay to boulder bluffs. Crosses extensive wetlands, where river forms many miles-wide system of oxbows, sloughs, and similar evidences of meandering channel. Boreal forest, with large cottonwoods and willows along river. Quite gentle. 17. NOWITNA: Fairly small, crosses from high rounded hills through rolling uplands, then across wet plain and into Yukon. Fairly narrow valley, with canyon segment in upper portion. Deeply incised tributaries, with silt and clay bluffs primarily. Gentle but steady current. Meanders in lower portion. Boreal forest. Gener­ ally quite clear, with bog water stain in lower portion. 18. YUKON, RAMPARTS SECTION: Very large, through narrow rocky gorge with bold steep, but generally wooded high bluffs rising directly above narrow river bottom. Winds through gorge, with gentle though strong steady current. Boreal forest. Quite deep and turbid. Low mountains beyond. 19. YUKON, TANANA HIGHLANDS SECTION: Very large, through moderately narrow valley in high rounded hills with mountains beyond. Quite

24

22 22

in in upper upper foothills. foothills.

quite quite rapid, rapid, with with ledges. ledges. Large Large early early summer summer caribou caribou concentrations concentrations

brush brush in in mountains. mountains. Lies Lies in in narrow narrow to to broad broad valley. valley. Upper Upper portion portion

typical typical of of North North Slope Slope rivers. rivers. Flows Flows through through tundra, tundra, some some low low

flow flow quite quite variable. variable. Very Very braided braided beyond beyond mountain mountain front front as as is is

and and plains plains to to coast. coast. Moderately Moderately clear, clear, slightly slightly glacial-influenced; glacial-influenced;

through through Brooks Brooks Range, Range, then then across across foreshortened foreshortened stretch stretch of of foothills foothills

4. 4.

KONGAKUT: KONGAKUT: Fairly Fairly small, small, flowing flowing for for considerable considerable distance distance north north

thus, thus, wildlife wildlife is is often often a a visible visible aspect aspect of of landscape. landscape.

is is major major wildlife wildlife habitat habitat in in terrain terrain otherwise otherwise much much less less diverse, diverse,

innumerable innumerable ponds ponds and and large large lakes lakes across across plains. plains. Riparian Riparian corridor corridor

willow willow brush brush along along upper upper portions. portions. Sand Sand dune dune area. area. Abutted Abutted by by

shallow, shallow, and and rather rather clear. clear. Moist Moist to to wet wet tundra tundra primarily. primarily. Extensive Extensive

across across extensive extensive Arctic Arctic lowlands. lowlands. Very Very braided, braided, generally generally quite quite

3. 3. IKPIKPUK: IKPIKPUK: Fairly Fairly small, small, flowing flowing from from lower lower Arctic Arctic foothills, foothills,

mid-summer. mid-summer.

cross cross such such landforms. landforms. Large Large caribou caribou concentrations concentrations cross cross river river in in

sided sided mesas, mesas, With With sections sections of of the the Utukok Utukok deeply deeply incised incised where where they they

able able ponds. ponds. Upper Upper part part across across rolling rolling terrain terrain overtopped overtopped by by steep­

moist moist (tussock) (tussock) with with dry dry tundra tundra on on hills, hills, to to wet wet tundra tundra with with innumer­

Not Not glacier-influenced; glacier-influenced; clear; clear; rather rather gentle. gentle. Tundra Tundra ranging ranging from from

2. 2. UTUKOK: UTUKOK: Fairly Fairly small, small, ·flowing ·flowing through through Arctic Arctic foothills foothills and and lowlands. lowlands.

Extensive Extensive delta, delta, with with sand sand dunes. dunes.

bluffs bluffs or or cliffs cliffs along along one one side side or or the the other other for for much much of of length. length.

gullies gullies in in upper upper portion. portion. Rolling Rolling to to flat flat terrain, terrain, with with high high

gradient. gradient. Tundra, Tundra, except except high high willow willow brush brush along along bluffs bluffs and and side side

or or snowmelt, snowmelt, and and somewhat somewhat turbid turbid at at high high water. water. Rather Rather gentle gentle

variable variable since since neither neither soil soil nor nor vegetation vegetation can can absorb absorb much much rainfall rainfall

lowlands. lowlands. Not Not glacier-influenced, glacier-influenced, moderately moderately clear; clear; flow flow quite quite

1. 1.

COLVILLE: COLVILLE: Fairly Fairly large, large, flowing flowing through through Arctic Arctic foothills foothills

and and

( (

A A SYSTEM SYSTEM OF OF RIVER-RELATED RIVER-RELATED LANDSCAPES LANDSCAPES

powerful powerful visual visual impact impact on on the the viewer, viewer, in in a a highly highly personal personal way. way.

areas areas of of unique unique or or striking striking visual visual characteris~ics characteris~ics which which may may impart impart a a

which which are are drawn drawn in. in. Also Also shown shown are are examples examples of of special special places, places, small small

key key viewpoints, viewpoints, which which are are useful useful in in determining determining viewsheds, viewsheds, examples examples of of

suggest suggest a a system system of of wild wild and and scenic scenic rivers rivers .. .. The The map map also also locates locates selected selected

intended intended to to be be representative, representative, not not comprehensive. comprehensive. It It is is not not intended intended to to

with with the the more more uniformly uniformly shaped shaped units units shown shown on on Map Map 1. 1. The The system system is is

usually usually lie lie in in long long narrow narrow corridors, corridors, difficult difficult to to array array in in combination combination

landscapes landscapes that that are are primarily primarily riparian riparian in in nature. nature. Such Such landscapes landscapes

intended intended to to illustrate illustrate the the range range of of Alaskan Alaskan visual visual character character types types of of

and and regional regional landform landform and and vegetative vegetative diversity. diversity. The The examples examples shown shown are are

clarity, clarity, and and rapidity rapidity of of the the river river itself, itself, as as well well as as degree degree of of incision, incision,

scapes. scapes. They They are are chosen chosen to to illustrate illustrate variety variety in in terms terms of of size, size, water water

Map Map 2 2 includes includes a a representative representative system system of of river river and and river-related river-related land­

RIVER RIVER ENVIRONMENTS, ENVIRONMENTS, VIEWPOINTS, VIEWPOINTS, AND AND SPECIAL SPECIAL PLACES PLACES Sr Sim~lar to (S) except ruggedly glacier-carved with sharp ridges and. peaks. ' Se Ruggedly eroded limestone mountains, essentially unglaciated, forming spires, reefs, cliffs, and other sharply defined bedrock features. ' V Volcanic mountains. G Broad icefields, total snow and ice environments from which nunataks, peaks, and ridges may rise, but do not dominate. R Major river bottoms cutting through higher mountains, forming very deep wide canyons. Ci Bay and inlet coast set into higher mountains. Cf Fiord coast set into higher·mountains, except as below. Cg Fiord coast set into higher mountain type described in (Ig). Cs Fiord to bay and inlet coast as in 3(Cs).

5. Very high mountains. Ir High peaks areas, containing distinctive individual intrusive or uplifted summits rising above mountain ranges, from the slopes of which glaciers flow into the foothills. V High volcanoes rising along gradual slopes from open plains. Vi High peaks dominated by symmetric volcanoes, rising in certain ( cases, above extensive ranges. Vs Limestone and volcanic, rock cliff and canyon landscapes, featuring very high layered walls and stream-cut gorges, and backed by very high mountains. · Cf Fiord coast set into very high mountains.

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Cf Cf Fiord Fiord coast coast set set in in gentle gentle uplands. uplands.

isolated isolated low low mountains. mountains.

Ci Ci Bay Bay and and inlet inlet coast coast set set in in gentle gentle uplands, uplands, in in some some cases cases including including

Cb Cb Beach Beach and and forest forest coast coast set set in in gentle gentle uplands. uplands.

R R Major Major river river bottoms bottoms through through gentle gentle uplands. uplands.

local local groups groups of of vents, vents, cones, cones, and and other other outcrops. outcrops.

isolated isolated volcanic volcanic uplands, uplands, in in places places having having wave-cut wave-cut cliffs cliffs and and

Vo Vo Gently Gently undulating undulating to to rough rough volcanic volcanic topography topography on on islands islands or or

V V Gentle Gentle uplands uplands dominated dominated by by lava lava flows. flows.

I I Rugged Rugged intrusive intrusive islands islands and and sea sea stacks stacks

rock rock outliers outliers and and glacial glacial deposits. deposits.

Mb Mb narrow narrow flat-bottomed flat-bottomed basin, basin, set set in in higher higher Lon~ Lon~ mountains, mountains, with with

mountains). mountains).

Mt Mt Ridges Ridges with with sloping sloping trend trend in in elevation elevation (transitional (transitional to to hills hills or or

M M Rolling, Rolling, even even trending trending ridges. ridges.

narrow narrow gorges. gorges.

bold bold cliffs cliffs locally locally exposed, exposed, and and streams streams very very deeply deeply incised incised in in

Eg Eg Hogbacks, Hogbacks, cuestas, cuestas, mesas, mesas, buttes, buttes, and and dome-like dome-like formations, formations, with with

or or major major river river deeply deeply incised. incised.

Er Er Flat Flat lying lying to to gently gently rolling, rolling, moderately moderately to to intensely intensely dissected; dissected;

overtopped overtopped by by mesa-like mesa-like hills hills on on gently gently undulating undulating plain. plain.

El El 1ong 1ong ridges,·some ridges,·some steep-sided steep-sided and and narrow, narrow, others others broad, broad, locally locally

ridges, ridges, mesas, mesas, or or buttes. buttes.

Eo Eo Irregular Irregular surface, surface, with with occasional occasional rugged rugged lower lower hills, hills, sharp sharp

Fp Fp Flat Flat lying lying to to gently gently rolling, rolling, many many ponds ponds or or streams. streams.

water. water.

F F Flat Flat lying lying to to gently gently rolling, rolling, many many streams streams but but little little standing standing

2. 2. Gentle Gentle uplands. uplands.

Cb Cb Beach Beach and and forest forest coast. coast.

Cm Cm Coastal Coastal marshes, marshes, estuaries, estuaries, deltas, deltas, spits, spits, barrier barrier beaches. beaches.

R R Major Major river river bottoms bottoms (alluvial (alluvial flats, flats, terrpces, terrpces, meanders). meanders).

stagnant stagnant ice, ice, severely severely pitted pitted outwash). outwash).

Fg Fg Small Small scale scale relief relief due due to to glacial glacial deposition deposition and and melting melting (moraine, (moraine,

Fo Fo Flat, Flat, like like (Fp), (Fp), oriented oriented lakes lakes predomina'nt. predomina'nt.

stream stream courses courses or or on on deltas). deltas).

(thaw (thaw lakes, lakes, stream stream meanders, meanders, stream stream drainage drainage networks networks along along

(outwash (outwash generally, generally, flatter flatter moraine, moraine, till till plain); plain); or or nonglacial nonglacial

Fp Fp Flat Flat or or essentially essentially flat, flat, much much standing standing water. water. May May be be glacial glacial

F F Essentially Essentially flat, flat, like like (Fp), (Fp), but but little little standing standing water. water.

I I

1. 1. Plains Plains and and lowlands. lowlands.

Map Map 1: 1:

divisions divisions we we have have identified. identified. Each Each type type of of topography topography is is represented represented on on

the the diverse diverse topography topography of of Alaska. Alaska. This This list list shows shows all all of of the the topographic topographic

The The two two factors factors of of relief relief and and of of landform landform can can be be combined combined to to describe describe

Topographic Topographic Divisions Divisions of of Alaska Alaska Relief

These numbers, combined with the landform abbreviations below, identify the various visual character types that are shown on Map l. l. Plains and Lowlands

2. Gentle Uplands

3. Lower Mountains and Hills

4. Higher Mountains

5. Very High Mountains

Landform

Upper case letter indicates the primary characteristic; the following lower case letter indicates the most significant secondary characteristic.

Flat to gently rolling lowlands. F Flat, few ponds. · Fp Flat, many ~onds. Fo Flat, oriented ponds. Fg Qlaciai· deposition, gently rolling, many ponds.

Erosional environments, generally of low to moderate relief. - Eo Outcrops and rough irregular hilly surface. El Long ridges on undulating plain. Er River incised or dissected. Eg Gorges, hogbacks, domes, i.e. gentle canyonlands topography. Eb Badlands. Em Mountains of mesa and canyon character, relatively greater relief.

Mountains: Mountains generally of rounded form or wide spacing. M Generally rounded mountains with little or no glacial carving. Mw Bedrock shaped and-dissected by flowing water. Mt Ridges with sloping trend. - Ms Mountains or ranges widely spaced on uplands. Mb Narrow basin within mountains.

Igneous intrusive mountains, generally glacial-carved and rugged. I Crystalline mountains, moderately rugged, some glaciers. Ir Rugged crystalline mountains, glaciers generally widespread. Ig Sheer granite peaks and cliffs, often exfoliating.

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Creek. Creek.

along along and and above above the the stream stream mouths mouths of of Seymour Seymour Canal, Canal, such such as as at at Pack Pack

7. 7. Brown Brown bear bear concentrations concentrations on on Admiralty Admiralty Island Island during during salmon salmon spawning spawning

and and the the Alaska Alaska Range. Range.

trough trough in in Mt. Mt. McKinley McKinley National National Park Park between between the the Kantishna Kantishna Hills Hills

including including sheep, sheep, grizzly, grizzly, caribou, caribou, and and moose moose along along the the subalpine subalpine

6. 6. Seasonal Seasonal abundance abundance and and visibility visibility of of a a variety variety of of large large mammals mammals

12 12

other other portions portions of of its its ever-changing ever-changing channels. channels.

sionally sionally exposing exposing remains remains of of mammoths mammoths while while depositing depositing islands islands in in

of of the the bluffs bluffs augmented augmented by by melting melting of of exposed exposed permafrost permafrost and and occa­

2. 2. Upper Upper Yukon Yukon River, River, cutting cutting back back into into its its bluffs, bluffs, the the sloughing sloughing off off

materials materials from from nearby nearby unvegetated unvegetated river river bars. bars.

Dunes, Dunes, as as well well as as continuing continuing incremental incremental deposition deposition of of fine fine windblown windblown

1. 1. Constant Constant reshaping reshaping of of unconsolidated unconsolidated sand sand within within the the Kobuk Kobuk Sand Sand

Evident Evident natural natural processes processes

peaks peaks of of the the Saint Saint Elias Elias Range. Range.

Malaspina Malaspina piedmont piedmont glacier glacier to to the the ice-sheathed ice-sheathed precipices precipices and and high high

6. 6. The The ice-age ice-age vista vista from from the the Pacific Pacific Ocean Ocean beach beach across across the the huge huge

Mountains. Mountains.

giant, giant, seemingly seemingly suspended suspended volcanic volcanic snow snow domes domes of of the the Wrangell Wrangell

5. 5. The The extensive extensive evenly evenly sloping sloping apron apron from from 'the 'the Copper Copper River River up up to to the the

vistas. vistas.

cally cally unifying unifying diverse diverse landscapes, landscapes, is is among among the the classic classic Alaska Alaska

Range Range with with its its centerpiece centerpiece Denali. Denali. This This type type of of long long view, view, dramati­

plain, plain, toward toward the the distant distant but but immense immense white white wall wall of of the the Alaska Alaska

above above Chilchukabena Chilchukabena Lake, Lake, across across the the flat flat muskeg-filled muskeg-filled interior interior

4. 4. The The expansive expansive vista vista from from low low overlooks overlooks such such as as the the Roosevelt Roosevelt Hills Hills

leading leading the the eye eye far far into into the the high high mountains. mountains.

by by the the single single water water body, body, walled walled by by foothills foothills and and mountains, mountains, and and

3. 3. The The long long yet yet confined confined space space looking looking up up or or down down Lake Lake Clark, Clark, unified unified

Mountains.) Mountains.)

and and two two spur spur ridges ridges reaching reaching the the Kobuk Kobuk River, River, and and the the Waring Waring

surrounds surrounds the the Kobuk Kobuk Sand Sand Dunes, Dunes, rimmed rimmed by by the the Baird Baird Mountains Mountains crest crest

and and backed backed by by the the Alaska Alaska Range. Range. (A (A similar similar basin, basin, shown shown on on Map Map 2, 2,

in in the the Lake Lake Clark Clark country, country, rimmed rimmed by by low low tundra-capped tundra-capped foothills foothills

2. 2. The The vast vast semi-enclosed semi-enclosed basin basin of of the the Mulchatna-Chilikadrotna Mulchatna-Chilikadrotna Rivers Rivers

Arctic Arctic National National Wildlife Wildlife Range. Range.

northernmost northernmost wall wall of of the the Brooks Brooks Range Range on on the the other, other, in in northwestern northwestern

l. l. The The vast vast space space bounded bounded by by the the Arctic Arctic Ocean Ocean rim rim on on one one edge edge and and the the

Significant Significant visual visual spaces spaces - vistas, vistas, enclosures enclosures

.extremely .extremely narrow narrow tributary tributary fiords. fiords.

Alaska, Alaska, with with side side trips trips up up the the succession succession of of extremely extremely long, long,

6. 6. Boat Boat travel travel along along Pearse Pearse Canal Canal at at the the southeast southeast edge edge of of Southeast Southeast

and and pine pine forests forests of of the the interior interior (in (in Canada). Canada).

and and connecting connecting the the coastal coastal wet wet forests forests with with the the drier, drier, redolent redolent fir fir

5. 5. The The Chilkoot Chilkoot Pass Pass crossing, crossing, rich rich in in evidence evidence of of prior prior human human passage, passage,

10 10

along along the the edges, edges, but but easily easily perceived perceived from from any any point point within. within.

expanse expanse of of the the Yukon Yukon Flats, Flats, readily readily seen seen from from overlooking overlooking bluffs bluffs

2. 2. The The unity unity of of stream, stream, pond, pond, muskeg, muskeg, woodland, woodland, and and sky sky inter-tying inter-tying the the

middle middle Colville. Colville.

Plains Plains once once was, was, extending extending outward outward from from the the river river bluffs bluffs along along the the

hills hills forming forming a a single single unbroken unbroken unfenced unfenced horizon horizon like like the the Great Great

1. 1. Nearly Nearly featureless featureless yet yet endlessly endlessly rolling rolling tundra tundra plains plains and and low low

Well Well developed developed single single characteristic characteristic

near near its its mouth. mouth.

the the glacier-hung glacier-hung crags crags and and cliffs, cliffs, clam clam beaches beaches and and rain rain forest forest

pine pine woods, woods, and and round round rocky rocky domes domes of of the the interior interior (in (in Canada) Canada) to to

6. 6. The The Stikine Stikine River River valley, valley, which which grades grades perceptibly perceptibly from from the the meadows, meadows,

between between the the west west shore shore of of Cook Cook Inlet Inlet and and the the Mulchatna Mulchatna River. River.

mountain-edge mountain-edge lakes, lakes, and and foothills foothills of of tundra tundra and and boreal boreal forest, forest,

both both craggy craggy peaks peaks and and overtopping overtopping volcanoes, volcanoes, across across into into large large

coastal coastal rain rain forest, forest, fiords, fiords, high high glaciated glaciated mountains mountains including including

5. 5. The The regional regional compression compression in in the the Lake Lake Clark Clark country country of of Pacific Pacific

of of maritime maritime tundra, tundra, boreal boreal forest, forest, and and coastal coastal rain rain forest. forest.

Inlet Inlet coast; coast; within within this this small small area area exists exists a a unique unique intergradation intergradation

4. 4. The The northeast northeast edge edge of of Lake Lake Iliamna Iliamna and and adjacent adjacent valleys valleys and and Cook Cook

tundra tundra and and cottonwood cottonwood groves groves in in the the Togiak Togiak watershed watershed on on the the west. west.

yet yet extending extending west west right right through through them them into into a a rolling rolling upland upland of of

east, east, set set in in relatively relatively low low but but strikingly strikingly glacier-carved glacier-carved crags, crags,

3. 3. The The Wood-Tikchik Wood-Tikchik lakes lakes area, area, extending extending into into wooded wooded lowlands lowlands on on the the

south south to to rolling rolling forested forested New New England-like England-like foothills. foothills.

by by colorful colorful mountains mountains of of massive massive exposed exposed sediments, sediments, leading leading on on the the

Arrigetch Arrigetch Peaks Peaks to to the the west, west, the the tree-floored tree-floored valley valley itself itself rimmed rimmed

with with tundra-covered tundra-covered uplands uplands to to the the north, north, the the granite granite spires spires of of the the

2. 2. The The middle middle portion portion of of the the Alatna Alatna River River valley valley in in the the Brooks Brooks Range, Range,

tively tively compact compact area area between between Camden Camden Bay Bay and and the the Brooks Brooks Range Range crest. crest.

mountains mountains including including both both layered layered and and granitic granitic types, types, into into a a rela­

spits, spits, lagoons, lagoons, pond-filled pond-filled plains, plains, foothills, foothills, and and high high glaciated glaciated

l. l. The The regional regional compression compression in in the the Arctic Arctic Wildlife Wildlife Range Range of of coastal coastal

Diversity Diversity of of visual visual characteristics characteristics

combinations combinations of of criteria, criteria, the the examples examples listed listed below below are are illustrative. illustrative.

each each of of the the criteria criteria for for evaluating evaluating landscapes. landscapes. While While many many units units reflect reflect

The The visual visual units units and and scenic scenic complexes complexes identified identified on on Map Map 3 3 demonstrate demonstrate

AREAS AREAS ILLUSTRATING ILLUSTRATING CRITERIA CRITERIA FOR FOR EVALUATING EVALUATING LANDSCAPES LANDSCAPES CRITERIA FOR EVALUATING OUTSTANDING LANDSCAPES

Eight criteria are used to evaluate superlative visual units and scenic complexes shown on Map 3. These criteria are an outgrowth of the factors used to distinguish between landscape types.

1. The presence of a diversity of visual characteristics. Diversity is indicated by factors such as vegetative types, physiographic provinces, water, and land surface form. It is heightened by complex interrelationships between these features, such as found in areas of interfingered ecological zones, twisting coastline, and the like.

2. The presence and clearly visible expression of a single visual characteristic exceptionally well developed. The arctic coastal plain where it most clearly exhibits endless horizons and a surface free of major features is an exceptional land­ scape, for example.

3. The presence of significant natural features, landmarks, striking forms, and special places, such as specific peaks and canyons.· Distinctive natural features can be the dominating and unifying elements of a landscape.

4. The opportunity for special sequential experiences within the landscapes, as on a chain of canoe lakes, a fjord, or inter­ connecting valleys. For example, thle trip by water on the Wood River-Tikchik Lakes complex is a powerful aesthetic experience and, as a result, the lake/stream complex and its environs forms one landscape complex of high quality.

5. The inclusion of significant visual spaces, such as vast expansive vistas or deep enclosures. An important expansive landscape with broad vistas might be bounded on one side by a range of"high peaks and, fifty miles away across plains, by low hills from which the scene is best viewed. Or, in an area of relatively low relief, a river winding through a forest may create many small enclosed spaces, as perceived from water level.

6. The presence of natural processes. Highly visible natural processes are both interesting and unifying elements in the landscape. They include evidence of ecological change and succession, geological processes (including erosion, glaciation, volcanism, and deposition), seasonal changes, and evidence of movement--and sand, snow, ice, and so forth. Alaska landscapes often dramatically feature these processes.

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The The objectives objectives of of Map Map 3 3 are: are:

intended intended to to be be a a definitive definitive listing listing of of all all the the superlative superlative landscapes. landscapes.

them. them. The The map map shows shows only only outstanding outstanding representative representative areas areas -- it it is is not not

Map Map 3. 3. We We include include the the state's state's best best landscapes landscapes to to the the extent extent we we know know

Alaska's Alaska's many many kinds kinds of of visual visual units units and and scenic scenic complexes complexes are are shown shown on on

lowlands. lowlands.

scenic scenic complex complex comprised comprised of of mountains, mountains, lakes, lakes, streams, streams, foothills, foothills, and and

the the Wood-Tikchik Wood-Tikchik lake lake and and river river system system is is the the unifying unifying element element of of a a

join join landscapes landscapes into into an an area area usually usually as as a a unity. unity. pe~ceived pe~ceived For For example, example,

passes passes and and valleys valleys are are natural natural features features which which can can channel channel travel travel and and

movement movement on on the the land. land. A A river river or or coastline coastline or or a a series series of of connected connected

viewpoint viewpoint is is a·viewshed. a·viewshed. Sequence Sequence refers refers to to the the pattern pattern of of human human

scenic scenic complexes: complexes: viewshed viewshed and and sequence. sequence. The The area area seen seen from from a a key key

shown shown on on Map Map 3. 3. We We used used two two additional additional concepts concepts to to help help us us define define

representative representative Visual Visual units units and and superlative superlative scenic scenic complexes. complexes. These These are are

Maps Maps 1 1 and and 2 2 were were our our starting starting point point for for identifying identifying outstanding outstanding and and

Map Map 3: 3: "Visual "Visual Units Units and and Scenic Scenic Complexes" Complexes"

personal personal knowledge knowledge and and certainly certainly could could be be expanded. expanded.

illustrate illustrate a a range range of of examples examples and and are are limited limited also also by by the the extent extent of of our our

key key viewpoints viewpoints and and special special places places shown shown on on Map Map 2 2 are are intended intended only only to to

distinctive distinctive valleys, valleys, and and summits summits of of unique unique 'and 'and striking striking character. character. The The

tive tive riparian riparian visual visual environments, environments, coasts), coasts), capyons, capyons, gorges, gorges, cliffs, cliffs,

features features (lake (lake basins, basins, lake lake systems, systems, river river stretches stretches which which create create distinc­

visual visual units. units. It It shows shows a a variety variety of of special special places, places, including including water water

viewpoints viewpoints which which are are useful useful in in determining determining the.viewsheds the.viewsheds which which define define

same same conc.epts conc.epts as as in in preparing preparing Map Map Map Map 2 2 also also 1. 1. locates locates selected selected key key

the the range range of of diversity diversity of of this this aspect aspect of of landscape landscape character character using using the the

rivers rivers and and river-related river-related landscapes landscapes chosen chosen to to iilustrate iilustrate comprehensively comprehensively

shows shows these these natural natural features. features. It It shows shows a a representative representative system system of of

areas areas of of uniform uniform landscape landscape character character type type in in a a statewide statewide context. context. Map Map 2 2

that that are are important important to to any any scenic scenic analysis,'but analysis,'but which'are which'are not not mappable mappable

While While mapping mapping landscape landscape character, character, we we identified identified a a number number of of locations locations

Map Map 2: 2: "River "River Environments, Environments, Viewpoints, Viewpoints, and and Special Special Places" Places"

climate, climate, vegetation, vegetation, and and color color patterns. patterns.

using using these these three three factors, factors, since since they they determine determine such such other other attributes attributes as as

texture texture of of that that surface. surface. We We found found that that lan

large-scale large-scale shape shape of of the the land land surface; surface; and and landform, landform, the the features features and and

three three variables: variables: location location by by region region within within the the state; state; relief, relief, indicating indicating

These These units, units, which which the the regional regional subdivi~e subdivi~e divisions, divisions, are are defined defined by by

Map Map 1 1 divides divides Alaska Alaska into into units units of of uniform uniform landscape landscape character character type. type.

Map Map 1: 1: "Visual "Visual Character Character Type Type Map" Map" METHOD

The initial task was to devise criteria for distinguishing between areas of different visual character. This process began with a review of the BLM and Forest Service landscape analysis systems. (2) The BLM approach, the more refined of the two, uses five key factors to describe landscape character type:

1. Landform: Includes physiography, relief, texture, depositional and erosional forms, and rockform such as cliffs, beaches, and bluffs.

2. Vegetation: Described by type of vegetative cover, extent of cover, and ecotones--the interfacing and intermingling of vegetative types.

3. Water: Presence of still water (lakes), moving water (streams), the intermingli~g of land and water (marshes), and the primary interface of land and water (coasts). 4. Color: Presenc.e of color and color contrasts in soil, rock, vegetation, water, and snow and ice. 5. Influence of Adjacent Scenery: Often views outside the visual units are critical to perceptions of landscapes within the unit--for example, in the situation where distant mountain ranges encircle a lowlying plain. The BLM system is used as a foundation in the development of a chart, "Factors Distinguishing Alaska Landscape Character Types," which shows how we arrive at criteria for classifying landscapes into categories. Litton's landscape classification system, prepared earlier for the U.S. Forest Service, is also useful in defining landscape units from the perspective of human experience. (3) Using this criteria, the state was systematically surveyed for areas of uniform visual characteristics using the following resource information:

1. U.S. Geological Survey topographic maps, useful in delineating relationships and contrasts in land.and water forms.

2. Wahrhaftig's physiographic divisions of Alaska, which comes close to mapping visual character type and thus is the most important basis for this work. (4)

3. Ha~ond's landform map of Alaska, useful in delineating units of comparable relief and texture. We are also indebted to the work of Williams and of Detterman in classifying Alaska land- scapes. (5)

4 COMPOIENTS OF THIS STUDY

The results of the study include:

* This text, which describes the method of work, outlines the criteria used in categorizing landscapes, and lists the types of landscapes identified in Alaska.

*A chart, "Factors Distinguishing Alaska Landscape Character Types," which shows the physical aspects of the land which enable us to dis• criminate between landscapes .

.* Three maps of Alaska showing: (1) areas of uniform landscape character type; (2) the location of certain natural features important in defining visual units and scenic complexes; and (3) outstanding visual units and scenic complexes representing signifi­ cant aspects of the diverse Alaska landscape.

* Illustrations showing many of the types of landscapes we have iden­ tified.

2