4 Z1L_, 1914. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY $2.00 A YEAR 4
MiPt0,21,4V4VOVIIIVIBVI,LVILVI4V11VilV4IVPV4■ K. I i'lVtIVIJAAIVIIVIIVILlElpill‘ The Nid-Pacific Magazine CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor VOLUME VII NUMBER 4 CONTENTS FOR APRIL, 1914.
Our Art Gallery. ■ s • . - - - - - - 317 • • The Making of Tapa • • From Memoirs of the Bishop Museum. Through Tasmania - - - - - - 325 By Oscar Vojnich Punia - - - - - - - - - - 331 (An Hawaiian Legend translated by W. D. Westervelt.) New Zealand's Great Glacier - - - - 337 By Dr. E. Teichelmann Golf in Hawaii - - - - - - - - 341 By Katherine Pope A Fisherman's Paradise - - - - - 347 By Arthur L. Mackaye Labor in the Cane Fields - - - - - - 351 By Royal D. Mead Americanizing Samoa .. - - - - 357 By Frederick Briggs Plant Invasion on Lava - - - - - - 361 By Chas. N. Forbes An Ancient American City - - - - - 367 By Sylvanus G. Morley Some Rarely Visited Islands - - - - - 373 By Zeb Hastings The Open Air School in Hawaii — - 379 By Henrietta Goodnough Hull The Garden Island - - — - - - 385 By W. F. Martin and C. H. Pierce Imperial Cherry Blossoms - - - - - 391 • IN By J. M. Gazine • • Guide Book and Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific.
The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H.
Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and pouessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25e. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.
Permission is given to the Press to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given _
•I I • III _
vtri i)4 A ,, ) • • '" 4 1 ,. , F' . 4' i ... A v -..-,,,.. . .. .
• •
...1 'br' '11, . — ,..':... t .„. . ai pik a I i • ,--. ' . ,,, ■ , 74.'7'' ' .1* , jti — ,..-=• ' Xe. '''.• % ' , . 4471 4 s' t ^ .." , ,.. . -1. , ti -4. '..---- -i• : t., ,,,..y„pp., %, _ i . . 1 .. - i ..4 r. ' i - 11111r" 9 • -' ei'r
7:, ''''' '; V • .9 - .1 - - 4tryli. .
r• I*- . 19:5.5.-. : "'6:1 7 : -'4- ' ' 1. .. ■ '44 ,
' 5 '',.--, , t•' -t r' .?1 .rt'. .." , :--, -pr•. ' - .. . 1-410:....
1 h
Everywhere in the Islands of the Pacific the p ig is the emblem of the feast.
CC1
z
z
O
O
O
V V
O
V
V Q_ •
01::■ O
V
z
O O
V
O
V
O
V V
CZ)
1. tl
tl
O
40 O
tl
tl
4-,O
tl
O O
4-, 0
tl
lls Fa la lu ha a le i Wa
• • II
IN • / ill •
I
I .
[
. - . ,,, ,,, : , -•"•.*%,,,. .--.., , . . , T,,,„:;4• .,,•..
■ ' 0 , ,, , - .
'' •4 1' R
. .
4.•:•I■ ';V' .'''4
e 4."e we f 4t- ''."'" "**. 15;11, :A7 '-^'' ' '•''.,• '..*•ii.• . =`,''';.` * \ . ,.-4. - - .- -.
Kauilci Point light house a t Nana, a t t he e nd of t he Island of Maui.
•
•
•
I • • • •
•
...... -,. - . . --- -
- . ' ' ... ■ • * .'4 ':.. 4%-.-el t .. ' * ------„ . . , ...... ... ,„ . , ,,,,,,,.., .,.., , „„ -„ -,--,„ . , . ;! r ,.; • . .„..,, . - ! , ..-...... ,,„ . . ,
This p ic ture s hows t he Nank ing wa ll and t he road to t he M ing to mbs. 111 • IMI M .,. •
- ...
- . ...._ . .. _._. _ .. _ . . . ,„,. . .,.. . . ,... . ,i,:,, ,, , . ,.. Al . .. , __, ,..4 , , .,,..,.4.,.., ..„.._ .„:„ . ., . _ . .... .______ ...... _ ... - L
This is a scene on the coast of Kauai. A p arty of fishers and trampers have reached the end of the trail.
Croup in the Bishop Museum depicting an ancient Hawaiian Vil- lage, with Tapa beaters in the foreground.
M = g = = = The Mid-Pacific Magazine = . = CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD Vol,. VII. APRIL, 1914. NUMBER 4
Making Tapa in Fiji.
The Making of Kapa
From the Memoirs of the Bishop Museum.
T will not be forgotten that kapa- simple as they usually were, is already making is fast passing into oblivion lost. The etymology of the name is I all through the regions where it simply ka=the, and pa=heaten or the once flourished, and at present ex- beaten thing. There is no living source act knowledge of some of the processes, whence we can make up our deficiencies,
2-M. P. 317 318 THE MID-PACIFIC
for even where the poor relics of the longer fashionable for the living, but the manufacture still exist, they are so af- old beaters were largely used by the na- fected by foreign additions, not to say tive washerwomen to beat the clothes of corruptions, that they are of little help. the foreigners to a more or less pulpy Even the names of the tools are not al- condition on the flat stones by the brook- ways to be obtained today from the few side, and it was in this debased use that old natives who once practised the art. I first saw an Hawaiian kapa beater. The tools with which this work was This excited my curiosity, and it was not done were doubtless, in the beginning, long before I had gathered the names of simple and even rude. On the islands of the various patterns cut on them, and the eastern Pacific, where the making of had also seen their legitimate use. These bark-cloth attained its highest develop- beaters seemed at the time over-abundant ment, the primitive tools were at some and they could often be bought for a unknown time replaced by a more com- hap aumi, the Hawaiian dime. plicated apparatus (at least on the Ha- In 1890, when the Bishop Museum waiian Islands), and this apparatus, was opened, the manufacture and use which reached its zenith in the early part (with such exceptions as we shall find of the nineteenth century, we have in later) had ceased; kapa-making on Ha- abundance in this Museum. waii, where it had excelled, was taking We may premise that early in the its place with the lost arts, and this was second half of the last century foreign true in many other Polynesian groups. textiles had largely replaced on these Samoa still continues its rather coarse islands the choicer kapa, which was much siapo making, but it is mainly for ex- more difficult to make than the common portation as a curiosity. Everywhere the sorts, and was the chosen work of the product of the loom (which the old Poly- higher female chiefs (Alii) . Almost nesians did not know) has driven out the from the coming of the American Mis- product of the beater. sionaries in 1820 these exalted dames On Sunday morning, January 18, 1778, had generally ceased to beat or rather Captain Cook, on his third voyage, dis- decorate kapa for amusement, and be- covered this group, which the Spaniards taken themselves to the more difficult task had visited two hundred and twenty-three of learning to read and write with the years before. We pass over his descrip- new letters brought by these foreign tions of the people until he comes to the teachers. The early chroniclers of the matter we are at present interested in: Mission tell most touching stories of the "They had no ornaments about their desire of the aged natives to master the persons, nor did we observe that their mystery before they died. ears were perforated ; but some were When in 1864 the writer came to these punctured on the hands, or near the islands kapa was worn only in the out- groin, though in a small degree ; and the lying districts, and only the plainer forms bits of cloth which they wore, were cur- were made: in Honolulu, when only the iously stained with red, black and white malo (waist cloth) was worn, it was of colors. cotton cloth and not of kapa. The noise, "In every thing manufactured by these —a rather pleasant one,—of the beating people, there appears to be an uncommon was common enough on Hawaii, in the degree of neatness and ingenuity. Their valleys of Kauai, on Molokai and in a cloth, which is the principal manufacture, few other places, although on Oahu for- is made from the morus p ap yrif era ; and eign cloth was almost universally worn. doubtless, in the same manner as at Ota- A few kapa makers could be found on heite and Tongataboo; for we bought the windward side of the island, for there some of the grooved sticks, with which was, and still is, a superstition that the it is beaten. Its texture, however, though ancient cloth makes the most suitable pall thicker, is rather inferior to that of the or even shroud for the dead, while no cloth of either of the other places; but, THE MID-PACIFIC 319 in colouring or staining it, the people of after the fashion of our country, and it Atooi (Kauai) display .a superiority of was not without the utmost difficulty, that taste, by the endless variation of figures we could make them understand that our which they execute. One would suppose, figures had a meaning in them which on seeing a number of their pieces, that theirs had not." they had borrowed their patterns from In the early days of the American Mis- some mercer's shop, in which the most sion to the Hawaiian Islands there came elegant productions of China and Europe from the Society Islands a man on his are collected ; besides some original pat- way home to England, seeking health for terns of their own. Their colours in- himself and wife, and fortunately for us deed, except the red, are not very bright ; as for the Mission the Rev. William Ellis but the regularity of the figures and was persuaded to stay with the new stripes is truly surprising; for, as far as teachers, to whose labors he gave great we knew, they have nothing like stamps help, as he was already familiar with the or prints to make the impressions. In cognate Tahitian language, and soon not what manner they produce their colours, only preached in Hawaiian, but wrote we had not opportunities of learning; hymns, while the American missionaries but besides the party-coloured sorts, they were acquiring the Hawaiian tongue. He have some pieces of plain white cloth, was an excellent missionary and pastor, and others of a single colour, particularly and in addition a very observant man dark brown and light blue. In general who did more than any one else to ob- the pieces which they brought to us, serve the manners and ways of the Ha- were about two feet broad, and four or waiians before foreign influence had ut- five yards long, being the form and terly transformed them. In his Tour of quantity that they use for their common Hawaii, and his Polynesian Researches dress or maro, and even these we some- he pictures the people of Kamehameha times found were composed of pieces most faithfully and distinctly, and to him sewed together ; an art which we did not I now turn for a description of the kapa- find to the southward, but is strongly, making as he saw it in the early twen- though not very neatly, performed here. ties of the last century. There is also a particular sort that is thin, He had the advantage of living in in- much resembling oil-cloth ; and which is timate association with the people he actually either. oiled, or soaked in some describes shared by none of the previous kind of varnish and seems to resist the witnesses we have cited, all of whom action of water pretty well." were but birds of pasasge, here one week, It is not strange that Cook was sur- gone the next. Ellis had seen the tapa- prised at the accuracy of the drawing. making in Tahiti, and it was no new Death here interrupts the observations of or mysterious process he was investigat- the great Captain, and we must turn to ing, so I have given space for all he had the third volume of the account of this to say even though repetition may seem voyage, where Captain King continues useless. It certainly serves to confirm or the narrative : contradict the account of his forerunners. "The business of painting belongs en- "For several days past we have ob- tirely to the women, and is called kip- served many of the people bringing home paree (kiipalapala) ; and it is remarkable, from their plantations bundles of young that they always gave the same name to wauti (a variety of the Morns papyri- our writing. The young women would fera), from which we infer that this is often take the pen out of our hands, and the season for the clothmaking in this shew us, that they knew the use of it as part of the island. ( July, 1823.) well as we did ; at the same time telling "This morning, the 17th, we perceived us, that our pens were not so good as Keoua, the governor's wife, and her fe- theirs. They looked upon a sheet of male attendants, with about forty other writing paper as a piece of cloth striped women, under the pleasant shade of a 320 THE MID-PACIFIC beautiful clump of cordia or kou trees, cloth is made, is occasionally laid in employed in stripping off the bark from water, to extract the resinous substances bundles of wauti sticks, for the purpose it may contain. Each piece of bark is of making it into cloth. The sticks were then taken singly, and laid across a piece generally from six to ten feet long, and of wood, twelve or eighteen feet long, about an inch in diameter at the thickest six inches square, smooth on the top, end. They first cut the bark, the whole but having a groove on the under side, length of the stick, with a sharp serrated and is beaten with a square mallet of shell, and having carefully peeled it off, hard, heavy wood about a foot in length rolled it into small coils, the inner bark and two inches wide ; three sides are being outside. In this state it is left some carved in grooves or ribs, the other into time, to make it flat and smooth. Keoua squares, in order that one mallet may an- not only worked herself, but appeared to swer for the different kinds of cloth they take the superintendence of the whole are accustomed to manufacture. party. Whenever a fine piece of bark was "Various sort/ of cloth are made with found, it was shown to her, and put aside this plant, some remarkably fine and to be manufactured into wairiirii, or even ; that which has been beaten with a some other particular cloth. With lively mallet, carved in different patterns, much chat and cheerful song, they appeared to resembles muslin at first sight, while that beguile the hours of labor until noon, made with a grooved mallet appears, un- when having finished their work, they re- til closely examined, something like dim- paired to their dwellings. ity. There are other kinds very thick and "This wauti plant, of which the great- tough, which look like wash-leather, but er part of the cloths on this side of the the most common sort is the pau, worn island is made, is cultivated with much round the waists of the females. To make care in their gardens of sugar-cane, this a piece of bark is beaten until it is plantains, etc., and whole plantations are four yards long, and more than a yard sometimes appropriated exclusively to its wide, and of an equal texture through- growth. Slips about a foot long a out. Sometimes two or three pieces of planted nearly two feet apart, in long bark are necessary to make one piece of rows, four or six feet asunder. Two or cloth. Five of these pieces when finished, three shoots rise from most of the slips, are spread out one upon the other, and and grow till they are six or twelve feet fastened together at one erid. These five high, according to the richness of the pieces make one pau. The inside pieces soil, or the kind of cloth for which they are usually white, or yellow ; but the out- are intended. Any small branches that side piece is stained, or painted, with may sprout out from the side of the long vegetable dyes. No gum is used in the shoot, are carefully plucked off, and manufacture of the pau, except that con- sometimes the bud at the top of the plant tained in the bark, yet the fibres adhere is pulled out, to cause an increase in its firmly together. Those stained red or size. Occasionally they are two years yellow, etc., are sometimes rubbed over growing and seldom reach the size at with a vegetable oil, in which chips of which they are fit for use, in less than sandal wood, or the seeds of the pan- twelve or even eighteen months ; when danus odoratissimus have been steeped. they are cut off near the ground, the old This is designed to perfume the cloth, and roots being left, to produce shoots an- render it impervious to wet ; it is, how- other year. ever, less durable than the common pau. "The bark when stripped off and rolled "There is another kind of cloth called up, as described above, is left several tapa moe (sleeping cloth), made princi- days ; when, on being unrolled, it appears pally for the chiefs, who use it to wrap flat. The outer bark is then taken off, themselves in at night, while they sleep. generally by scraping it with a large It is generally three or four yards square, shell, and the inner bark, of which the very thick, being formed of several lay- THE MID-PACIFIC 321
Making Tapa in Samoa. ers of common tapa, cemented with gum, gum and resinous varnish, which not and beaten with a grooved mallet till they only preserves the colours, but renders are closely interwoven. The colour is the cloth imoervious and durable. The various, either white, yellow, brown or maros are about a foot wide, and three black according to the fancy of its owner. or four yards long. Nearly resembling the tapa moe is the "The colours they employ are pro- kihei, only it is both thinner and smaller. cured from the leaves, bark, berries or It is made in the same manner, and is roots of indigenous plants, and require about the size of a large shawl or coun- much skill in their preparation. One or terpane. Sometimes it is brown, but two kinds of earth are also used in mix- more frequently white or yellow, inter- ing the darker colours. Since foreigners mixed with red and black. It is gen- have visited them they have found, upon erally worn by the men, throw loosely trial, that our colours are better than over one shoulder, passed under the op- theirs, and the paints they purchase from posite arm, and tied in front or on the ships have superseded in a great degree other shoulder. the native colours, in the painting of the "But the best kind of cloth made with most valuable kinds of cloth. the cultivated plant is the wairiirii, which "Their manner of printing is ingenious. is made into paus for the females, and They cut the pattern they intend to stamp maros for the men. The paus are gen- on their cloth on the inner side of a nar- erally four yards long, and about one row piece of bamboo, spread their cloth yard wide, very thick, beautifully painted before them on a board, and having their with brilliant red, yellow, and black colours properly mixed, in a calabash by colours, and covered over with a fine their side, dip the point of the bamboo, 322 THE MID-PACIFIC which they hold in their right hand, into original. The original text of Malo's the paint, strike it against the edge of work has never been published (beyond the calabash, place on the right or left extracts), and it exists in several manu- side of the cloth, and press it down with script copies, and the one here quoted is the fingers of the left hand. The pattern from a transcription I made more than is dipped in the paint after every impres- forty years ago from the copy in posses- sion, which is repeated until the cloth is sion of the Hawaiian Government (which finished. has been lost for some years) : I might cite one more witness, a native MOKUNA XVI. one, to tell us of Hawaiian kapa-making. It is noteworthy that while he is the only 1. 0 ke kapa ko Hawaii nei mea aahu, native from any of the kapa-making he ili noia no kekahi mau lauu, he waoke, islands that we can call upon, and while he mamaki, he maaloa, he poulu; o ka he lived and wrote at a time when there waoke ka laau kanu nuiia; o ka ili o ua was certainly a good assortment of the waoke la ke hanaia i kapa penei, na ke best kapa in existence (although the kane e kua ka waoke, a na ka wahine e Alii had already largely given up the uhole a pau ka ili a hoopulu a pulu. pleasing work of decorating the cloth), 2. Alaila kuku ma ke kua me ka ie, a he tells us very little that Cook and Banks palahalaha i na la eha paha nui aku and Ellis have not already told, and he paha, a kaulai i maloo, alaila lole ia i tells that little in a manner that shows he kapa, kekahi ke palahalaha loa nae, ai was by no means appreciative of his peo- pa'u no ka wahine kekahi, o ka mea ple's proficiency in this manufacture ; to ololi iho lilo ia i malo no ke kane. Davida Malo the Old, which he ,repre- 3. 0 ka mamaki kahi laau hanaia i sents to a marked degree, was passing, kapa, a i malo, i pa'u he laau ulu wale and the New, which for us may be repre- no ma ka nahelehele, e kii wale no ka sented by foreign cloth, was now occupy- wahine e uhole i ka ili oia laau, a lawe ing his thought, and doubtless had his mai a kalua i ka imu me ka palaa, oia ke approval. kapa ulaula, ina i kalua pu ole me ka If we could have cross-examined Malo palaa oia ke kapa kelewai. we might have learned a little more, but 4. E hoopulu no e like me ka waoke a not much, for his information in such pulu alaila, kuku ma ke kua me ka ie, a matters was largely hearsay, and the palahalaha ma na la ekolu paha, eha curious compilation which bears the name paha, a kaulai a maloo a lilo i kapa ke- of Malo's Antiquities was mainly com- kahi, a i malo, a i pau, he kapa paa ka posed from contributions brought him mamaki, he liuliu ka aahu ana. by his pupils at Lahainaluna. He men- 5. 0 ka maaloa a me ka poulu, he mau tions casually one process not already laau kukuia laua i kapa, ua like no nae noticed by his predecessors ; indeed I owe me ko ka waoke: a me ko ka mamaki: to him the only information I have that ke kuku ana, a me ka hana ana. Ua the Hawaiians practised it, the coloring nui nae ke ano o na kapa, me ka pa'u, of kapa by steaming in the imu or under- a me ka malo, a n aka wahine no a ground native oven. How or why this hoolilo i ke kapa i ka malo i ka pa'u i was done he either did not know or did mau ano e ma ka hooluu ana, i eleele, not care to mention, and I have not been ulaula maomao, lenalena pela ia no. able to supply the deficiency by enquiries of the few old natives who might have CHAPTER XVI. heard of the process. 1. Kapa was the clothing in this Ha- A sample of Malo's account of kapa- waii; it was made from the bark of cer- making is here given with the Hawaiian tain trees (or shrubs) waoke, mamaki, text and a free translation, omitting many maaloa and poulu. The waoke was of the repetitions of the Hawaiian, but much cultivated; the waoke bark was holding strictly to the meaning of the made into kapa in this way. The men THE MID- PACIFIC 323 got the sticks but the women peeled off 4. This was soaked till soft like the the bark and soaked it until soft. waoke, then beaten on the kua with the 2. It was then beaten on the kau with ie, till it was spread out thin; three the ie. This took four days, perhaps days perhaps, four perhaps was this more, then it was hung up to dry. Then work, and it was hung out to dry; then the cloth if wide was kapa or pa'u for it was kapa, pa'u or malo. This mamaki women, if long and narrow, a malo for was a strong cloth and durable to wear. men. 5. The maaloa and poulu were beaten 3. The mamaki also was made into into kapa like the waoke and mamaki; kapa, pa'u and malo. It grew wild in the beating was the same so was the the woods and the women peeled off the work. Great was the variety in form bark and took it to the oven. With dark and kinds of kapa, the pa'u and the kapa palaa, red kapa was made, if bak- malo, and the women greatly increased ed without the palaa it was the brown the variety by coloring the malo or the kapa, kelewai. pa'u either black, red, green, yellow, etc.
Beating Tapa in Tonga. 324 THE MID-PACIFIC Launceston and King's Bridge, from Trevallyn, Tasmania.
Through Tasmania
By OSCAR VOJNICH. I
UR ship, which left Melbourne at 1903, it contains 179,487 inhabitants. The 5 P. M., was next morning last of the aborigines died in 1876. Since O steaming up the Tamar, the 1882, it has been a separate colony under largest navigable river in the isl- a Governor appointed by the Sovereign and of Tasmania. With the neighboring of England, until finally united to islands Tasmania covers an area of 26,215 the Australian Commonwealth. Children square miles ; it is situate between the of from 7-13 years of age must attend 40° 41' and 43° 38' latitudes S., and the school. 140° 30' and 148° 30' longitudes E. Two On the hilly shores of the island, mountain ranges traverse it, one from forests of eucalyptus trees, in places en- North to South for a distance of forty tirely burned down, in others with scor- miles from the east coast, the other on ched trunks, may be seen ; here and there the West. The space between the two small pasturagelands and farms lend a ranges is covered by a plateau with sev- variety to the scene. After sailing some eral fresh water lakes. The climate is forty miles over fresh water, we arrived temperate. According to the Census of at the town of Launceston. This town,
325 326 THE MID-PACIFIC
•
'1* THE MID -PACIFIC 327 situated on the side of a hill, was found- is the favourite resort for excursioners ed in 1807: today it is the staple of the from Launceston. commerce of Tasmania, and contains I took the express from Launceston 23,000 inhabitants. to Hobart. The train went well enough As I had no time to waste, I went on the narrow-gauge track ; but, as it straight to the tourist office. The Tas- passed 22 stations, and hardly omitted to manian Tourist Society is under the call at any of the 10 conditional stopping patronage of the Government : it offers places, it did not cover the distance of lavish information on all points to 133 miles under 6 hours. In a district so strangers. A good local guide, well illus- thinly populated, every encouragement trated, was thrust into my hand ; I was has to be given to even the smallest set- instructed what to look at, and in what tlement : the stations where the express order my visits should be paid, and what stopped are nearly all such. the cab fares were. Consequently I was With the varying shapes of the hills able to start to make the best use of the visible in the distance, the scenery of this time at my disposal without loss of time, route was finer than that on the way to with a plan of campaign ready to hand. Launceston. Here too the railroad track In the gorge stretching two miles away is flanked by woods of eucalyptus trees, from Launceston, considerable variety is either burned down or with scorched lent to the scenery that is displayed to trunks. On the trees in the woods sur- our view as we pass along the footpath, rounding the farms, almost without ex- partly cut out of the rocky bank, partly ception, a few inches off the ground, made by blasting, by the rushing stream, rings some inches deep and wide, cut the piles of boulders, and the eucalyptus with axes, may be seen. The tree thus woods. deprived of its sap dries up within a year In sunny weather the crickets' chirping or two, when it is felled and sold as fire- makes a deafening noise, though its wood,—the eucalyptus tree being soft slender tones are overwhelmed by a wood. This has only been the case re- louder voice, the cadence of which re- cently, however, since wood has been minded me partly of the peeping of the marketable in the larger towns. Form- guinea fowl. I wondered what insect it erly everything was burned out with a might be : and my eyes were riveted on view to making the soil cultivable as soon the first songster I saw. as possible. An enormous fly, of the size of a man's Hobart, the capital of Tasmania, con- thumb, with transparent wings, was set- tains 32,000 inhabitants, and is situated tled on the branch of a tree. When I on a bay sheltered by islands. On the stopped near it, for a moment it was si- land side, the basaltic rocks of the Wel- lent : but it soon began again to discourse lington mountains form a picturesque its melody. background. Of its flower gardens, the Desiring to get a nearer view of the finest is the botanical gardens situated creature, I struck at it with my stick : high up on the shore of the bay, in the but the blow was intercepted by the vicinity of the Governor's park. branch and the fly was off. As it flew Of the places of resort round about away, it uttered quite a different sound, Hobart, the most frequented is the Wel- I might almost call it a tone of terror. All my further attempts to find the cry- lington range of mountains, particularly ing cricket proved a failure. a fern alley situated in one of its loftier In that part of the gorge nearest to valleys. All around, on the hill-sides, lie Launceston, the vegetation becomes more trunks of trees, to which the verdant val- luxuriant ; tall grass and ferns adorn the ley overgrown with palm-like ferntrees side of the valley, while round the presents an absolute contrast. Father up benches placed here and there, man has on the road that winds up the side of the come to the assistance of Nature. This hill, splendid views can be obtained over 328 THE MID-PACIFIC the scorched forest right down to the huge charred scars. So the woods we open sea. saw while sailing up to Launceston and I made an instructive excursion from in the train on the way to Hobart were Hobart to the south-eastern extremity of mostly remains that had been cleared of the island. I took the train from the undergrowth. village of Belleville on the shore opposite The scorched, ash-covered ground is the bay, to the village of Sorell some ten without more ado sown with grass seeds miles distant, from where I continued my and the fields, that are soon verdant, are journey in a one-horsed carriage. first used as pasture-lands for sheep. In After the cultivated fields lying round districts where the soil is more fertile, Sorell, we find a mountainous district the trees are first cut down, or, if not covered with woods. Along the well- marketable, burned out,—then the land is kept road, here and there farms may be ploughed. The most characteristic are seen : but, as night soon came on, by the those small farms which the tenants or light of the stars, I could make out noth- owners are just beginning to cultivate. ing but the white trunks of dead and Here as a rule, beside a small kitchen dried eucalyptus trees. garden stands a little wooden dwelling: At 10 p. m. we arrived at the station in the vicinity a few flowering shrubs, in of Dunalley, which consists of a few the window red flowers,—and all around farms. Here I spent the night, in a a waste : yonder blackened tree trunks clean and well-managed little hotel. At lying on the ground : a little farther on 4 a. m. I continued my journey with a virgin forests with their gigantic trees fresh h,orse. The driver, who was an and impenetrable "bush." Englishman by extraction but had been At the first sight of this devastation of born in Tasmania, was of great use to Nature, we feel an infinite sorrow, but me in explaining my whereabouts. Hardly when we catch sight of the gardens of had we proceeded two miles when he the more advanced farms planted with called my attention to the sand layer useful trees, the splendid pasture that stretching for some way along the side have replaced the useless bush, and the of the hill. Considering that farther on, ploughed fields, we become reconciled to on the ridge of the hill, marine conchites the present state of affairs. are found, it is evident that this moun- After driving for three hours, I ar- tainous district was at one time below the rived at my destination. Eaglehawk surface of the sea. Neck, some 30 miles distant from Sorell, At sunrise, the flutelike tones of the was the very first settlement in Tas- Australian magpie and the common jack- mania : today two old houses are the only bird of Tasmania, blending with the chat- remains left of the colony once occupied tering to the thrushes, instill some life by deported convicts. But my reason for into the peaceful quiet of this uninhabit- going there was not to visit the scene of ed district. As the air got warmer, small these anything but inspiring recollections : greenish parrots appeared in large num- it was, in fact, to examine the so-called bers : I saw also three large black cocka- tessellated pavement on the shores of the toos, which pursued each other with a sea. noise like the croaking of kestrels. On Here a part of the shore, which is the road we saw some large lizards bask- otherwise shingly, is composed of flat ing in the sun : my driver was inclined to rocks, with oblique and cross crevices that take the snake-track to be seen in the dust give one an impression of the huge bould- for the trail of the poisonous black snake. ers having been laid side by side by the The primeval bush had in most places hand of man. The steep ascent behind been exterminated : when -the dry brush- the pavement is composed of a kind of wood is set alight, many large trees fall sandstone schist in layers, from 15-25 victims to the fire, or, if they escape de- meters in height. The stones contain a struction, their trunks are covered with large quantity of remains of marine THE MID-PACIFIC 329 shells and vegetation. Near to the tessel- previously mentioned ; and in fact no lated pavement, in a splendid situation, other cause can be assigned to the fact stands the Lufra Hotel. Both the Tourist that for a very moderate price excellent Society and the shipping companies run- ning boats to Tasmania, are said to sub- board and lodging can be had there. I sidise this hotel as well as the small one returned to Hobart the same way.
Cliff grounds and first basin, from New Lookout, Launceston. 330 THE MID-PACIFIC
A Hawaiian fisherman with his throw-net getting ready for a catch. This art of fishing is generally performed on the sea coast where draw-nets are unable to be used. Hawaiian spearing fish.
Punia
An Hawaiian Legend translated by W. D. WESTERVELT.
"0 Kohala of the lowlands! they obeyed the tabu and she ate none 0 Kohala of the highlands! of these things, thinking she was being Kohala of the fast falling rain, tested by the aumakuas, the ghost-gods Kohala near to the day of coming life." of her ancestors. Then came a great Old Hawaiian chant. longing for the kumu, which was a tabu fish. HIS is an old legend told in their Lei-makani was troubled and taking childhood to those who are old offerings sought the prophet of his place. T today, and in the same way told The seer consulted signs according to to their grandfathers of genera- the custom of the ancient days, and told tions past. Punia was a boy who was Lei-makani that Hina would become the swallowed by a shark and yet lived. mother of a boy having great ability, In the ancient days Lei-makani and who would endure strange experiences, his wife Hina lived happily together for while the father, Lei-makani, would be a long time without children. Then killed by evil powers who would them- Hina desired to eat black coconuts selves be destroyed by the son. which were tabu for women, and she Lei-makani returned to his home and wanted the short (popoulu) banana, but told Hina that for the sake of the son
331 332 THE MID-PACIFIC
who would come to them, they must he said to Punia : "You must stand here patiently obey the tabu, but he told her and watch while I dive for our lobsters." nothing about the prophecy of his own The boy urged the father to permit him death. to dive at the same time, but the father Months passed by. When the time of refused. birth came Lei-makani watched the signs The shark heard all that was said, for in the clouds of the sky. There was bad he and his followers were lying in the weather, dark clouds, and rain falling all dark shadows of large rocks in the sea. over the land. There were rough seas He was sorry when he heard the father and high surf rolling in land. Evil was forbid the boy to dive with him. spreading everywhere. Therefore when Lei-makani dove deep into the lobster the child was born Lei-makani named hole. He caught three fine lobsters and him Punia, meaning trouble over land began to rise—but the shark-chief caught and sea. him and held him while his followers The child was an oolea, one far in ad- bit and ate the body until all but the vance of his age. As a babe he was as head had been destroyed. This head the strong and wise as a youth. As a boy shark-chief held in his mouth and rose he was as strong as a than. When he to the surface under the place where was three years old he went with his Punia was standing. There the shark father to the land where sweet potaoes floated shaking the head before the boy, and taro were cultivated and aided his while the father's blood colored the father in farming. He went down to waters around him. the sea and helped his father in diving Punia was overcome with grief, but for lobsters and in catching fish. The he was too wise to leap into the sea to boy was allowed to help as he wished. fight the sharks in his frenzy of sorrow. His father taught him to use the o-o or While tears flooded his cheeks he cursed spade for farming, the the or spear for the shark-chief and swore that he would throwing or thrusting, and instructed take vengeance upon him and his fol- him in the moko-moko or boxing and lowers. the kukini or swift running, for in all He returned to his mother and passed these things the father was very skillful. many days in wailing and chanting for When the boy was about ten years old the dead. he was like one of the very strong men. Punia cared for all the things which One day Lei-makani and Punia went had been planted by his father and thus down to the cape of Kohala to their furnished food from the land for their lobster hole to find their sweet food to home, but his mother Hina forbade his eat with the food from the farm. going into the sea after fish. There had come to the cape of Kohala At last he persuaded her to let him go a shark-chief whose name was Kai-ale- to the cape to the. lobster pit. When he ale. He had ten shark followers. They came to the seaside he carefully looked were all man-eaters. At the cape of down into all the shadows of the sea Kohala they began to catch the people and discovered the sharks sleeping by who came down to the sea for fish, and the great rocks of the reef. Then he had already destroyed some of the fisher- called with a loud voice as if speaking men, but Lei-makani had not heard of it. to friends : "Perhaps that is Kai-ale-ale According to the ancient belief this asleep with his followers, filled and shark-chief was worshipped as a man- made drowsy with the flesh and blood shark. He was a mono-kupua or a mano of their victims. I will dive into the (shark) with a kupua power, i. e., he sea and get two lobsters for my mother could appear as a shark or a man, as he and myself and satisfy the hunger of my desired. mother Hina." While Lei-makani stood on the bank The shark-chief awoke his followers above, the pit where his lobsters lived, and prepared to attack the young man THE MID- PACIFIC 333 as he was diving, but Punia took a large shark-chief• until all his followers were stone and threw it into the sea, making killed. Then he thought for a long time a great splash. The sharks swam swiftly about the death of Kai-ale-ale. to the place where the stone sank into a He had Hina make a very fine mat deep hole. Punia dove into the lobster called maka-lii, or the chief's eyes, so pit, seized two lobsters and returned to fine and so soft that it was a delight to the beach. touch it. He made two sticks about an He called loudly to the shark-chief "0 arm's length, very sharp. He prepared Kai-ale-ale, e-e-e. Punia has been div- two fire sticks, the au-neki below and the ing and has his two lobsters. I can get au-lima above, for rubbing until fire my fish in spite of two, ten, or twenty sparks should fly. He took charcoal sleeping sharks. There is a shark with and fine wool (pulu-pulu) from fern a thin tail who gave me my lobsters. stalks. He made knives from sharp You must punish the thin tailed shark." stones and from the spines of the opihi, Kai-ale-ale made his sharks form a the sea urchin. He put good food in a line while he swam around them. He small calabash and wrapped everything saw a shark with a thin tail. It was except the long sticks in the fine mat killed and eaten by the other sharks. made by his mother. When Hina saw Punia coming home He said to his mother: "0 my moth- with lobsters she made a fire to cook er, I am going a long journey and shall them to eat with their sweet potatoes. not return for perhaps twenty days. Do Again Punia persuaded his mother to not be troubled thinking I am lost. Re- let him go down to the sea and this member the au-ma-kuas, the ghost-gods time challenged the shark-chief : "0 of our family and the prayers and in- sleeping Kai-ale-ale, prepare to eat cantations." Punia. He has come again for lobsters He kissed his mother, took his mat belonging to Hina in a place she has bundle and his long stick, and went described to me, not the lobster hole down to a place where there was a steep where my father was killed. I shall pall or bank under which the shark- get two lobsters as food for Hina, my chief slept alone. mother." He shouted to the shark, "0 Kai-ale- Then he threw a large stone into the ale, perhaps you are asleep. If I dive sea on the other side of the cape, fled down to Kai-ale-ale he must die unless across the land, dove to the lobster pit, he swallows me without giving me the took the lobsters and rushed back to the least wound. If I am cut by his teeth place where the sharks were swimming my mother Hina will make me alive and in the waters disturbed by the falling my blood will be the death of the shark- stone. He shouted, "0 Kai-ale-ale, I chief." made a swift dive and secured my lob- The shark rose up ready to swallow sters by the aid of a big bellied shark. Punia. The boy cried, "I dive ; I dive. You must punish him." If I am swallowed I die. If I am hurt The shark-chief was very angry and I live and my mother will kill Kai-ale- commanded his shark followers to lie ale." down as if asleep. When he saw the The mouth of the great shark was one with the big belly he said. "Why open. The boy leaped in with his mat did you aid Punia? It is best that you bundle and his two large sharp sticks. should die." So he killed that shark The shark caught Punia and swallowed and its body was eaten. him without closing his jaws. As Punia Punia laughed at the shark-chief and passed through he thrust the two sticks chanted, "I am having my revenge for upright between the jaws, holding them the death of Lei-makani and I am get- apart. Then he opened his mat and ting lobsters for Hina to eat with sweet pushed it into the throat, filling it so potatoes and bananas." that water could not come in." Again and again Punia deceived the He took his fire sticks and fern wool 3-M. P. 334 THE MID-PACIFIC
Diving into the lobster pit. and charcoal and made a fire and began he cried aloud as if talking to himself : to cook the flesh of the shark. As it "If Kai-ale-ale leave me in the outer surf cooked he cut it off with his sharp all the trouble I have made him will knives and feasted with the food he had endure. He will die and I shall escape, brought in his calabash. but if he takes me inland and I go to Kai-ale-ale, crazed with the burning the shore the poeple of that land will pain, rushed from place to place through kill me." the great seas. The shark because he was suffering so When other sharks met him they cried, sorely and because he thought Punia "0 Kai-ale-ale, why are you flying so would be killed, forgot his own danger, swiftly through the sea like one crazed? and rushed up in the shallow water until Perhaps some enemy is in pursuit ?" He he was stranded on the beach. This was replied, "I am burning up inside because at a place on the western side of the of the mischief of the son of Hina. I island Hawaii known as "Hiiaka noho am rushing to find help and a place to lae," or the cape where Hiiaka, the rest." siter of the goddess Pele, rested. So he went to many places but could Punia prepared to go out from the find no help. He swam to Tahiti and body of the shark, when he heard the even there found no place for rest, then shouts of people : "Auwe ! Here comes back to Hawaii. Thus many days passed a shark ; let us kill it. Cut it with and Punia began to be in trouble for stone knives. Strike it with clubs." the rough stomach of the shark wore When the people began to pound and all the hair off his head and polished cut the shark, Punia said to his enemy : the skin until it was shining. It is said "0 Kai-ale-ale ! You killed Lei-makani. that Punia was the first baldheaded man You tried to be the death of Punia, and in the islands. to eat him as you ate his father. So Punia heard the beating of surf and also have I eaten your flesh and escaped knew that he was near the land. Then your death." THE MID-PACIFIC 335
Then Kai-ale-ale, tortured and angry, hurt the man inside the shark." Again rolled over and over trying to kill Punia those who listened thought it was the and escape to deep waters, but the peo- voice of a ghost-god so they fled from ple pounded him fiercely. He became the beach. very weak, his breath left him and he Punia now was afraid to go out and died. show that was only a man, for he Then the people began to cut up the thought that the people would be very body of the stranded shark with their angry and would kill him. He remem- stone knives. They counted themselves bered that his hair had been worn off by fortunate to have killed it. They shouted the rough skin of the shark's stomach, so with joy as they clustered around it. he took the mat, cut a hole in it, thrust Then Punia called from the belly of his bald head through and waited the the shark, "0 people, be easy and care- coming of evening. ful lest you cut the man inside." Toward sunset he looked out and saw Most of the people did not hear be- the beach covered with people who were cause of the shouting. One man, how- watching the strange shark. As the sun ever, heard and called to his friends : went down he crawled out of the mouth "I hear a voice from inside the dead of tl-w shark calling back as if there shark." were many. ghost-gods with him. They did not believe this man and The people heard. They looked at the ridiculed him until he ran away. shining bald head coming out of the Then others heard a voice calling : mouth of the shark. They cried out, "0 friends, be careful lest you hurt the "Auwe ! auwe ! (alas, alas.) This is a man inside." One man called "Auwe ! shark god. The au-makuas are coming Are you a ghost in the body of the from him to destroy us. He will kill us shark." He threw down his knife and by his ghost-gods." ran away swiftly. All the others fled Darkness was coming and as the last after him. light of the sun made the sky red, Punia Punia found that he was left alone, went straight up toward the people. so he took away the mat from the throat They fled, trembling with fear and of the stranded shark and prepared to go out. While he was doing this he screaming because of the ghosts. heard new voices as other people came Punia followed them inland until he to the shark and began to cut up the was in the forest, then aided by the dark- body. ness he escaped to Kohala and there Punia was quiet for a while, then he dwelt happily with his mother Hina ever called as before, "Be careful lest you after. 336 E MID-PACIFIC
Franz Josef Glacier, the most wonderful in New Zealand, is but one of many in the Southern Alps. New Zealand has built fine roads to the glacier and has erected accommodation huts so that visitors may be taken care of. The head of a New Zealand glacier.
s New Zealand's Great Glacier
By DR. E. TEICHELMANN
ROBABLY no New Zealand keen to enable them to overcome many scenery is more famous or inspir- difficulties, were the only visitors. Now, P ing than that of the Franz Josef however, there is a first-class road all Glacier, and yet it is only in quite the way ; a mail coach runs once a week ; recent years that full access to it for the two of the large rivers have been bridged, ordinary tourist has been made possible. and the third, and worst, is in the course To begin with, until recent years the of being bridged, and should be nearing route from Hokitika to the Waiho Gorge completion by the time this article ap- has been beset with difficulties of various pears in print. Further, the accommo- kinds, and it required a good deal of dation for visitors, who were few, was hardihood on the part of the visitor to reach his destination safely. It is only naturally not much catered for ; but now about from ten to twelve years since the these same people are building houses to road down Mt. Hercules and on to the accommodate comfortably the large num- Wataroa was completed for vehicular ber of travellers who annually pass down traffic. Previous to that, a few cyclists the main South Road. and hardy horsemen whose desire to visit The number of tourists, who, a few this interesting region was sufficiently short years ago, could be counted by tens
337 338 THE MID-PACIFIC
in the summer season, now amount to periodic advance and recession of the ice many hundreds. is not very definitely known, but probably In past years visitors to this interesting due to the varying amount of snowfall in region have been content to go up the the high country in years previous to the track from the accommodation house actual advance or recession. some two and a half miles from the From various points on this track, terminal face of the Glacier, ascend the which is never far from the ice-stream, Sentinel rock, and perhaps climb over the views of different parts of the Glacier are terminal moraine and traverse the ice for easily obtained, and the track serves to some two or three hundred yards. Inter- land the tourist on the Glacier above esting as such a visit undoubtedly is, it the lower icefalls. still only gives the visitor a feeble idea From Robert's Point, with the assist- of the grandeur, beauty and extent of ance of an ice-pick, it is not difficult to this Glacier and its surroundings. In re- travel several miles up the Glacier, or to cent years access to the Glacier and sur- cross it to the south-eastern side above rounding country has been so much im- Cape Defiance, whence the traveller may proved by the Government Tourist De- get beautiful views of the main icefall, partment, and by the explorations of the mountains of the Divide, and the Alpine climbers from both sides of the beautiful "Unser Fritz" waterfall. It is Divide that there is now very little of the on this side, near the Unser Fritz fall, eight-mile long ice river inaccessible to that the climber makes his bivouac on the ordinary tourist when accompanied the night previous to an attempt on by a good guide and properly •equipped Mounts Moltke and Roon. for walking on ice and rough rocks. By leaving the track on the northwest- Access to the northern (north-western) ern side at Rope Creek and ascending in bank of the valley is facilitated by a good the creek bed through some lovely suspension bridge over the Waiho River scenery, visitors may reach the ridge on about half a mile below the terminal ice the Baird Range, and it is this route that face. This bridge leads to a track alter- is taken by the more adventurous climber nately through bush, over solid smooth who desires to cross the Divide at Gra- rock, around almost vertical cliff faces, ham's Saddle and descend to the Tasman over narrow precipitous gorges, through Valley in Canterbury. On the summit of bush again, eventually reaching a point the ridge there is a little lagoon, "The (Robert's Point) some three miles up the Waterhole," and this is generally chosen valley immediately opposite the ice. This as a site for the bivouac by travellers ire- track alone is one of the sights of the tent upon crossing. place, and involved quite a number of From this ridge comprehensive views engineering problems. In its length are are obtained of the Franz Josef Valley two suspension bridges, the larger of and Snowfields, the Fritz Range opposite, which crosses Rope Creek immediately as well as of the great Canyon of the above a beautiful waterfall. In several Gallery on the northwest side. places the track is formed of galleries The most interesting and instructive suspended by strong wire cables as it views of the Glacier are got from the curves round vertical precipices between spur of Mount Moltke on the southeast- one and two hundred feet in height, ern bank of the Franz Josef Valley, and stability being lent to the gallery by solid a moderately good track has been made iron rods leaded into the mountain wall. up to a height of about 3,000 feet, taking In one place, one of the galleries was the visitor into grass country just above completely wiped off the face of the rock the heavy timber line. From this open by a gradual rise of the ice mass in the country a splendid view of the whole ice- bed of the valley, giving a practical stream, with its curves, grooves, and ice- demonstration of the irresistible power of falls, is obtained, Teaching from the steep a glacier in motion. The cause of the snow slopes of the Minarets to near the THE MID-PACIFIC 339
Terminal face. This track is what is was thought of, but owing to the diffi- called a "blazer track," and does not com- culty or impossibility at that time of get- pare with the track on the other bank, ting off the ice opposite the Creek, it was but it is good enough for swagsmen to abandoned, and the party took to the traverse, and was made for the use of the Ridge on the Baird Range, following geological survey party some two or McKay's route as far as the Waterhole. three years ago. Some years later the Brothers Graham A trip up the center of the Glacier proved, the feasibility of crossing from from Robert's Point to opposite the em- the ice into the bed of the Rope Creek bouchment of the Almer Glacier is well stream and ascending that stream to the worth making, although it requires the summit of the ridge, thus saving the long most of a day. The Almer Glacier is a weary bush track on the Baird Range tributary icef all on the northern bank, from the Sugarloaf to the Waterhole. and at its junction with the Franz is re- Since then, of course, the footbridge over markable for the height and weirdness of the Waiho and the track on the north- its ice pinnacles. western bank has been built, and the Rope With a moderate amount of trouble Creek route can be reached without cross- and liberal use of the ice-pick, the ice can ing the ice at all. This route into Can- be left just above the Almer for the terbury has been in use for a good many mountain side, land this is the latest years, and it was only four years ago in achievement in shortening the route from January that a still further shorten- Westland into Canterbury, over Gra- ing of the route was made by a party ham's Saddle. By adopting this route, composed of Mr. L. Lindon (Geelong some two hours in time and the long Grammar School), Dr. E. Teichelmann, climb to the top of the Baird Range are and Alec Graham. Whilst this route, saved. details of which lack of space forbids, is In 1902, a party of three, the Rev. H. undoubtedly shorter, there is a disadvant- E. Newton, Dr. E. Teichelmann, and W. age entailed in having to occupy a camp H. Batson essayed to make the passage site where there is no firewood. A spirit into Canterbury over the Saddle. The lamp has to be used to melt the snow and Rope Creek route, then quite unknown, "boil the billy."
Ice falls of a New Zealand glacier. 340 • III MI • U •
'27 V *; I'! k 1 , `40 , . ''. THE MID-PACIFIC
4.
i° 4' / ... 8 Sr. 8. t o '888 88.8 V
.444414111111raf .
+mt - l''''' - 4.14't14r4w.0"4.iiiiii7
°//r44.4.411' 4 '4 s 8.4 4 h . iltio
=.
.4aT ...,. ..
The Country Club, Honolulu, Hawaii, has one of the finest golf links in the world. The Country Club, surrounded by mountains.
Golf in Hawaii
By KATHERINE POPE. s
HE Country Club is situated at The Club House fits in admirably with an easy distance from the heart its surroundings, mountain walls behind, T of Honolulu. A motor gets one green slopes all about. up there in no time, and one can Never are the links aught but green, go by open trolley to the end of the Nuu- the emerald acres gladden the eye from anu Avenue car line in fifteen minutes, miles away. Usually they are of "living with the terminus just a few steps from green," but always green. The Club the entrance to the club grounds. The property is off on a branching valley of route begins in the narrow business the wide valley of Nuuanu, and the streets, then on the avenue the car climbs mountain walls of both branching and from the shops to a charming residence wider valley are clothed with shades of district, with each block the air getting verdure varying from the spring-like fresher, and at the end of the line a freshness of pasture lands to purplish markedly lower temperature—at the club and dusky hues. Frequent showers and the mercury standing eleven degrees driven mist throw veils here and there, lower than down in the town. and if there is a more changeful, lovelier
341 342 THE MID-PACIFIC scene from golf links anywhere else, I land and sea. In the morning there is no should like to know thereof. one save the quiet-moving, quietly-polite No matter how hot and arid it may be Japanese attendants and the time and at the seaside or in the town, ever up at place are ideal for indulgence in idleness. the club there is freshness and coolness— Hefnmed in by mountain walls on three or at least promise of coolness. sides, Newcomer feels delightfully se- Many players declare any season is a cluded ; and that broad glorious view on fine season for golf here, that on any day the open side, the seaward outlook, gives free from steady rain golf is possible and the exhilirating impression that breadth enjoyable; and almost the full three hun- of view yields. The Club House, how dred and sixty-five days white figures dot clean and comfortable and sort of "sub- the moss-green turf sloping seaward and tropical" it is. When the mountain wind climbing mountainward from the hospit- comes tearing down the heights above ably-portalled, and wide-verandahed Club then the sliding windows mauka are shut House. A newcomer in tramping over and Newcomer is safely enclosed in a the links is wont to forget "the game's "tumultuous privacy of storm." On the the thing ;" unremembering ball and opposite side of the building there is no progress is tempted to stop and feast the glass needed, and none used, everything eyes on this enchanting view, to catch is wide open ; Newcomer looks down, again the lilt of a skylark, to take in deep down on a valley broadening out to a draughts of mountain air, fresh and tonic plain, on myriad roofs and trees, and be- laden with sweetness of mimosa, or the yond these the harbor and the open sea. pungency of lantana. Each tee presents By and by a haze 'veils the town and such a diverse point of view from all the those heights to right and left, and a others, and it would be a wicked waste dreamy atmosphere enwraps the little to lose that wonderful mountain outline world that promised with the overhead from just this spot, to let vanish unap- sun to become over-brilliant, of too daz- preciated that rainbow arch spanning the zling a beauty. In this softened light, in broad valley, to pay no attention to the this quiet spot, Nowcomer will loaf and stately ship out there on the blue, blue invite his soul the day long—let those waters. The wonder is that anyone plays who will stniggle and make futile effort good golf here, there are such distrac- out there in the teeth of the wind. tions for eye and fancy. But alas, not for long does the quiet But maybe it is the caddies that keep hold ; for in mid-forenoon there roll up one down to earth, those sharp-eyed, chattering automobile parties, more at- dark-eyed lads of many races, but all one tendants appear, there is running to and in keenness for sport, all Universal Boy fro. In a trice that delightful sheltered in the matter of memory for failures and wing of the verandah is overflowing with weaknesses. Or perhaps it is the prac- befrilled feminines, luncheon and bridge tical Scotch manager, whose quiet eye are in the air. Newcomer might as well sees pretty much all that is going on. go out and work. And presently Newcomer tries to pretend The practical Scotchman looks at New- there's no view at all, that no skylark is comer quizzically as, with lagging step, singing, there is no shadowy ship upon he descends to the region of lockers, lit- a shadowy ocean. tle balls, and other "balls." But New- But once in a while, the Newcomer comer puts a bold face on and makes no declares independence of critical caddies apology for not having got down to busi- and practical Scotchmen, vows to let golf ness earlier. He will take his time in alone for the nonce and indulge in a day asking for a caddy, so he adopts a con- of open loafing and unashamed roving versational manner and asks concerning eye. On the Club verandah a line of the nationalities of the lads grouped here steamer chairs gives invitation to leis- and there with full picturesqueness. "I'll urely enjoyment of a glorious view of show you their names," says the Scotch- THE MID-PACIFIC 343 man, and presently Newcomer is reading communist Kamaka is, what is his he this list : Ahpau Kong, Ai, Ah Houng, would gladly share with Newcomer ; Ah Fa Kong, Ah Fook, Kim Chow, Ah what is Newcomer's he will gladly make Moa, Ah Fa, Aha Shin, Ah Cheong, Ah use of. So while Newcomer is driving, Soy, Chin Wong, Penang, Kong Ah Fa, Kamaka halts on the green and practices Ah Fat, Ah Young Fat, Ah Yu, Kama- putting. But when Newcomer whistles, ka, David, Kopa, Manuel Frank, Johnnie, he smilingly responds and lopes over with Carl and Hans. the right club. And when Newcomer on Newcomer this day is given of the Ah a long drive sends his ball kersplash into family, who proves as perfect a member the young ocean that is a diabolical feat- of the guild as mortal could hope for ; ure of the Oahu Country Club course, with the eyes of an eagle, feet nimble, Kamaka smilingly breasts the waves and finget s that do not fumble, of an honesty rescues the dripping sphere. Kamaka is that not even the temptation full life of a worth what he costs in time and money, caddy can lessen ; all this proves Ah. and even when he stands like a little imp Newcomer, moment by moment, grows and grins as thirteen times Newcomer fonder of the small Chinaman, and by the tries to get his ball up the face of the time the ninth hole is reached each of the cliff on the way to the sixth hole, still two has told the other not a little of the Newcomer likes him ; likes the gleam of story of his life. Ah discloses that he is his great eyes, his amiability and friend- eleven years old, that he has already liness, and admires his sporting blood made $30 by caddying. What has he and skill with which he uses those bor- done with all his money? "Give Mudda ; rowed clubs. sometimes buy clothes ; sometimes meat, Monday is an off day, and then the fish, rice." He caddies only after school, caddies are allowed to play. Those lean goes to two schools, Government school little fellows are accurate players ; one mornings, Chinese school afternoons. boy has a score of 42. Darkskinned Questioned a little concerning the morals Chinese, Hawaiian, part-Hawaiian and of his profession, Ah shows no cynical freckle-faced haole boys,' off they go, by outlook on life, but the kindliness and ones, and twos, and threes, and fours, faith befitting his years : "Nearly every care-free, joyous, very much alive. A boy don't take the balls ; one, t'ree, do." tremendously interesting feature of the "But, alas, very seldom thereafter is Club they are to Newcomer, and prob- Newcomer so fortunate as to secure this ably to old acquaintances as well. paragon of skill and morality, and pres- Of course they are growled at a-plenty, ently Ah is seen no more ; the inference of course much of the grumbling they is, that he has died young. The head bring down on their heads themselves, caddy is interrogated, but has nothing to but these so youthful soldiers of fortune disclose, and all the other taciturn "Ah" cannot fail to arouse interest and sym- fail to unravel the mystery. Mamaka pathy, and one ponders on the advant- says, "He go back ;" but where and what ages and disadvantages of golf links as a "back" is cannot be ascertained. Ah be- school of experience for boyhood. Un- comes a memory, a neat, pleasant doubtedly the small shavers get a lot out memory. of it and some of them obtain valuable Kamaka is a character, a loosely-knit, training in several directions. And some, loosely garbed native boy, typically Ha- there is no doubt, develop most of all waiian. Singing skylark, arching rain- desire to "get rich quick." bow, some other patron's lost ball, the The scamps were given a wonderful meeting with a fellow-caddy, so much for Christmas tree, this year, "The Tree" in a big roving eye to see and attend to, reality a thicket of Monterey cypress, so what is the use of concentrating on one beautiful in itself it did not need the bag-owner's belongings ? A thorough adornment of myriad colored bulbs and 344 THE MID-PACIFIC
myriad tinsel. But the light and color The bold outline of the mountain is cap- made glitter for the childish eyes, and tured. A group of caddies waiting for a added to the festal air, and both ben- customer is preserved on the film. But efactors and beneficiaries were happier as one picturesque feature of the Oahu result of the labor expended. Country Club is coy, cannot be won To be invited to stroll with a player readily. This is a member of the army around the course near Honolulu is an of workers that keeps the course so trim invitation to be accepted eagerly. One and neat, a man, presumably Japanese, has no care or responsibility (save that engaged in cutting hay and transporting of keeping up with the player), one is his crop in two great bundles. In the able to look about at leisure, and finds latter occupation he looks like an ani- keen pleasure in strolling over the soft mated hay mow—two animated hay turf. What a picture is made by the mows. The kodaker uses persuasion, at- sheep nibbling over there, how uncon- tempts bribes, but Hay-Mows is obdu- cerned that one is when a sliced ball rate— awakes it from its nap. The little thatch- "Me no like !" ed shelters, how attractive they are and "Me hanahana !" wisely placed ; lacking them what a drenching one would get in those ex- "No stop four o'clock !" posed spots. Look at that wind-blown At last persuasion, bribes and compro- beginner taking a lesson ; no wonder the mise on the woman's part bring results. women tie their hats down with veils. If the lady stop till four o'clock, then the What good would hat-pins be going man and the hay may be pictured. The against that gale up to the second hole? lady "stops," and there is no hafdship in 'Eureka! while the player plays, I will it. The steward serves one of the home- use my kodak. Here, Kamaka, I'll carry like luncheons for which he is famous. the bag if you will run to the house and The man discusses things besides golf. get my camera. Not allowed in the There is an afternoon siesta in a lazy ladies' part ? I must go myself ? All chair in a shady corner, followed by an- right. I'll snap the beginner and meet other siesta in the long grass near the you at the second hole." The player's cut grass the coy Oriental is gather- companion hastens to the women's dress- ing up. And at last Two Hay Mows is ing-room, gay and summery in chintz snapped. and rattan, and searches for the machine The tired player and the rested com- she had lazily left behind, looking around panion on their way home passing auto meanwhile at the comfortable quarters after auto filled with ladies in lacy, deli- belonging to the women—restroom, cate dress and billowing veils, cannot help lockers, baths—trim and complete ; and contrasting them with the pantalooned just without the great, airy, general Chinese women working in the fields lounge, three sides open to out-of-doors. fringing the beautiful golf links. The The head caddy refuses to be photo- pantalooned women, too, wear flapping graphed, but the genial steward stops veils, but these are for utility—protection with his tray poised in air and poses for from all-day exposure to the sun—coarse, a picture. Even the wind-blown beginner cotton curtains depending from old hats. is complaisant, Kamaka is dee-lighted. The auto ladies look dainty and graceful The house presents itself picturesque and picturesque, but the Chinese women from different points of view. It is felt do not lack qualities that please. They there need be no scruples about taking are brown and sturdy and smiling; their men at a distance of hundreds of yards. costume is unhampering, and the dull The sheep look pleasant and keep still, blue color consorts well with the red- but one of the "shelters" seems to move brown of the dirt in which they are delv- —appears tipsy when the print is made. ing. These women with the hoe do not THE MID-PACIFIC 345
•seem bowed down with care—and per- asks, "Do you know who of them all I'd haps their toil is no more strenuous than rather be ?" the play of the folk over there straining "Millionaire planter? Owner of forty up those green hills. Newcomer and his thousand acres ? Head of a steamship companion take in the two scenes, the line? Controller of public utilities? nearby workers in their setting, the dis- Manager of—" tant dignitaries and every day folk, each "None of those, but 'Eleven years old with a small minion in tow. Newcomer and already earned thirty dollars' !"
At the end of the day. 346
• •■ im • •
• THE MID-PACIFIC
° .
t 'A
ti
4A$
Bay of Avalon, Catalina Island, showing bathers and Sugar Loaf Island in the distance. The little village of Avalon, Santa Catalina Island.
A Fisherman's Paradise
Bp ARTHUR L. MACKAYE.
ROBABLY in on other place in vidual fisherman will be looked after. the world has the systematic or- The ambition of all visitors, naturally, is p ganization of facilities for the to win the right to wear the gold button comfort and success of fishermen of the Tuna Club. But this can only be reached such perfection as at Avalon, done by capturing a leaping tuna on a Santa Catalina Island, about twenty nine-thread line with reel and pole and miles off the coast of Southern California unaided in any way by a second party, and about twenty-five miles by steamer except that the boatman is allowed to from San Pedro, Los Angeles harbor. gaff the fish when brought to the side. To this spot, from all over the world, en- Nestling at the foot of its embracing thusiastic disciples of Isaac Walton travel mountains the little village of Avalon to try their skill and endurance with the looks out over the placid cove which great game fish of the Pacific, found here forms its harbor and toward the mainland. amid ideal surroundings and with every Here it is always summer and the tour- assurance that the comfort of the indi- ists come and go continually, but the
347 348 THE MID-PACIFIC most uncertain tourist is the great tuna, ially of the junior variety, and at all the prize only of grit and skill, combined, hours of the day happy boys, and girls, also, with luck ; for more than one fisher- too, can be seen in the bay or on the man has fought his foe for hours only rocks along shore, angling for whatever at the last to see him break away to free- will take the bait. dom. The water of the bay and sur- Recently there has been started at rounding shores is as clear as a tinted Avalon a new sea amusement, namely crystal and it is here that the glass-bot- chasing the flyingfish by searchlight, tomed boats ply lazily about with their The result, however, is that it often fascinated passengers, as though in some looks much more as if the flyingfish were wonderful aquarium, watching in com- chasing the tourist. When the night is fort the home life of the finny tribes dark a fast power launch with its load among the sea gardens, which in them- of sight-seers glides out of the cove and selves are so beautiful. along the coast where the mountains sink Stringent rules govern the letting of into the sea, and then the searchlight is boats to visitors. Every boatman is reg- turned upon the water between the boat istered and every launch has •its captain and the shore; almost immediately great who must look after the comfort of his swarms of flying-fish, thousands upon patrons, see that they have only the best thousands of them, rise from the shim- of tackle (when it is provided by the mering sea and criss-cross like living boatman) and be responsible for the streaks of fire ; others head for the boat safety of those who go out upon the deep. and there is a continual rattaplan upon Each boatman, is as ambitious for his its sides as the fish thump against it in fare to secure a good catch as though he its progress. Others come into the boat, himself was interested in securing the in fact they shower in, and often the laps gold button, for often the reputation of a of the passengers are full of wriggling launch captain means greater patronage flying-fish. One man, last June, actually from fishermen. In fact, the launches of received a fine black eye from one of some of these men are often engaged far these fish. It is a thrilling sight, also ahead during the tuna season. one to try the nerves of a squeamish But there are other splendid game fish person. to be captured besides the leaping tuna. But although there is great sport in There is the great black sea-bass, which catching other brands of marine fauna sometimes weighs in over 300 pounds. there is no honor to approach that of Then there is the sinuous albicore, which bringing to gaff the leaping tuna. Out is often three feet or more of fight from where the flying fish sport in the lazy start to finish until the gaff ends his life. rollers, leaping from crest to crest of the But more often caught than these is the long surges, is to be found the great sil- gamey yellow-tail, and one of these ver-shining fish that, following the schools thirty pound fish will give a husky fisher- of the flyers, leap from the waves after man all he wants to do for some time their prey as it seeks to escape through after it is hooked. A button from the the air, thus earning its distinctive name. Tuna Club goes with a fish of this size Then when one has hooked a king of brought to gaff. Then there is the great all game fishes and finally lands him, it white sea-bass, which is considered a is doubtful if at any other time in life prize and brings with its capture another will such a thrill of pride ensue as when club button. These splendid fish some- the "tuna flag," blue with a white fish times run above forty pounds and the in its center, is hauled to the mast, indi- catching of one out in the open sea is an cating that there is a tuna on board. incident of life never to be forgotten. Each boat which comes into the harbor Besides all these large fish there are in- of Avalon flying this flag is the center of numerable smaller species which bring all eyes, the envy of all fishermen. joy to the heart of the fishermen, espec- Still it is not alone as a paradise for THE MID-PACIFIC 349 fishermen that Santa Catalina Island is lights, which is owned by the Banning thought of by those who have enjoyed its brothers, but enjoyed by all who have tranquil delights. It is a two-sided island. the privilege of visiting it in pursuit of On the lee lies the sea, breathing quietly piscatorial glory and surcease from the in long smooth waves of respiration, ever world's worries. changing, full of life, shading from There are winding roads which lead bright emerald to deep prussian blue ; here through mountain passes and along the and there it is crystal-like, elsewhere edges of precipitous cliffs ; shore roads opaque, but ever the sea of a dreamland that bring one to Moonstone Beach and shore, one of peace, beauty and fascina- to hidden Edens nestling in coves. Then tion. Westward, however, across the there is the Peninsula, Mecca for camp- picturesque and rugged backbone of the ers, and little valleys where the archae- Magis Isle is another sea ; one tipped ologist can find material to induce pon- with the silver lacing of foamy breakers, dering over a vanished race. The hunt- aggressive, loud-toned, insistent ; reach- er, too, has there a chance to secure the ing in out of the mysterious west in trophy of his rifle, for nowhere has the charging squadrons as though to break wild mountain goat developed such fine down the barrier of rock which separates horns, and more than one sportsman it from the placid waters of restful Ava- treasures the shaggy head, with its curv- lon. And eternally it is at work. Great ing horns, of his Catalina goat, which caves have been hollowed in the cliffs, cost him, possibly, days of effort in gorges have been eaten into the softer "bi inging home." rock, and ever the great Pacific surges Thus it is that in the Pacific Island of tear at that barrier, only to be flung back Santa Catalina can be found a little into themselves. world in itself, its greatest interest cen- Within the island itself are quiet vales tering in the sea. Its government is a where sheep browse as though time was patriarchaic one ; a personal government not ; winding canyons where wild goats add life to the ruggedness of the pic- of the few, dominated by the Bannings ; ture ; sloping hillsides where the birds paternal in its rule, but with a public gather and the ruby-throat seeks for spirit, so far as the island is concerned, nectar in the blossoms. Everywhere is which makes for accomplishment in the peace, but framed in a sternness of rag comforts of life on the Magic Isle, fa- ged rocks and treeless hills. Such are mous the world over as a paradise for the contrasts of this little island of de- fishermen who fish for sport.
Sea Lions—Seal Rocks. 4-M. P. 350 THE MID-PACIFIC Spanish women in the cane fields.
Labor in the Cane Fields
By ROYAL D. MEAD. ■
OR over half a century the ques- naturally been Orientals, the Orient be- tion of labor has been, and still is, ing the most available and economic F a most perplexing problem. Dur- source of supply. ing this period many millions of The present plantation labor of Ha- dollars have been expended in the intro- waii, exclusive of skilled labor and super- duction of laborers, and practically the intendence, is composed of a few Europ- whole world has been searched for them. eans and Hawaiians, American negroes, They have come from Russia, Norway, Porto Ricans, Chinese, Japanese, Fili- Germany, Austria, Italy, Spain, Portugal, pinos, and Russians from Manchuria. Madeira and Azores islands ; from China, The Europeans include a few Italians Japan and Korea ; from the Solomon, who have come into the country from New Hebrides and Gilbert islands ; from Louisiana (where they work for the same Porto Rico and the Philippines, and both wages upon the sugar plantations and whites and negroes from the mainland live in the same quarters with the ne- of the United States-4n all about 185,- groes), Galicians and Slays from East 000 laborers have come in during the last Austria, and a few Germans. The latter fifty-five years. The bulk of these have are almost entirely upon one or two plan-
351 352 THE MID-PACIFIC tations on the windward side of Kauai, for handling animals. On account of the northernmost island of the group, their superior strength they also make where the climate and general conditions excellent wharfmen and porters. They are favorable to outdoor work by Euro- are frequently found occupying positions peans. Aside from the Portuguese, how- as locomotive drivers and stokers, and in ever, the number of Europeans employed the mechanical employments. Compara- in actual field labor is very small. tively few are field hands. The Portuguese are largely employed The Porto Ricans, when they arrived, in the semi-skilled occupations of the gave the least promise either as citizens plantation. These people are an exceed- or as laborers, of any immigrants that ingly hopeful element of the population. ever disembarked at Honolulu. The They are both industrious and frugal, men had been carelessly recruited at a and their vices are not of the sort to in- time when the laboring population of jure their efficiency as workers. The Porto Rico was in a condition of acute country people become homesteaders, distress. It is probable that few of them cultivate small crops and fruits or coffee, were in a physical condition to make a and raise enormous families of bright, long voyage when they went on ship- sturdy children—the most desirable crop board. They were mostly people from of all in a country like Hawaii. Portu- the coffee country of their own island, guese or Hawaiians are usually employed who had been starved out of the moun- as teamsters, plowmen or cultivators tains when that region was devastated where animals are used. It is rather in- by the hurricane of 1899. When they teresting that the Portuguese, like the reached the plantations where they were Italians in Louisiana today, were form- to be employed, many, especially of the erly considered inferior for this sort of first expedition, which arrived in the work. But they have acquired the worst condition, were taken directly to knack of handling mules and oxen, and the hospitals, which some of them never in this branch of plantation labor are ex- left alive. Those who were not actually celled only, if at all, by the Hawaiians. ill were in no condition to work, and had The Portuguese is more individualistic— to be fed with specially prepared food he has less of the communal instinct than for some weeks before they could do a either the Chinese or the Japanese. full day's laboi- in the fields. They did Therefore he is less successful in co- not know how to care for themselves. operative and company contract work They had to be taught how to live in than are the Orientals. He is not in- their new surroundings. They were clined to strike, and is quite as apt to morally upset by their long travels and disagree with his fellow workmen as with changed environment, and many could his employer. But he can not be counted not acquire the new habits of life neces- upon to remain upon a plantation after sary to their new condition. So a con- he has saved enough to become his own siderable number became strollers and master. The ambition of most of the vagabonds, and wherever possible flock- Portuguese laborers is to get a little ed into the towns. A fair number, with homestead back in the mountains and to careful treatment, have become very ef- come down to the plantation occasionally ficient plantation laborers. There are to work at odd jobs for ready money. approximately 2000 on the plantations. There are Hawaiians employed on From the planters' point of view an sugar plantations in all capacities. This important result of the Porto Rican im- is without considering those whites who migration was the moral effect that their may have a strain of Hawaiian blood in arrival had upon the Japanese. The lat- their veins, who are to be found among ter had begun to fancy that with the en- the plantation owners and in the highest forcement of the Federal Chinese ex- administrative positions. The natives, as clusion and contract laws after annexa- intimated above, are usually preferred tion they were complete masters of the THE MID-PACIFIC 353 labor situation in Hawaii. They formed quarters and general conveniences for temporary combinations for the purpose living than do the Chinese. Many of of striking at critical periods of the plant- them have families and require individual ing and grinding season, and in this way apartments. They prefer to board in had succeeded in forcing up wages. The small companies, upon a cottage system, regular, arrival of monthly expeditions while the Chinese like to herd together in of Porto Rican laborers throughout an large barracks—usually roomy, barn-like entire year largely disabused them of this structures—with little suggestions of do- sense of monopoly and made them much mesticity about them. It is difficult to more reasonable in their relations with keep Japanese employes upon a planta- their employers. tion unless they are provided with plenty The Chinese long continued an im- of water—preferably hot water—for portant element of Hawaii's working their daily bath. No provision for privacy population, and they possessed influence need accompany these bathing arrange- and privileges and received a degree of ments. One big tub satisfies all ordinary consideration in the old island kingdom requirements. that they never enjoyed in the United The patriotism and national aggres- States. The first connection of Hawaii siveness of the Japanese are factors of with China was through the sandalwood their sociological influence in the islands. traffic, when the Celestial Empire was On the one hand these qualities have, up looked upon as the great source of royal to the present time, prevented their be- revenue and of ready money for the peo- coming permanent settlers like some of ple. The coolie appeared in 1852, with the Chinese. They have not acquired the dignity of this tradition behind him. large property holdings in Hawaii, His number increased slowly at first. He though they conduct many business en- accumulated property in those days of terprises of importance among their own early abundance, intermarried with the people. Japanese financial institutions natives, learned their language, gained and steamship companies handle the sav- their confidence and trade, and, with his ings of the laborers and carry the latter shrewd commercial instinct, establish,d to and from the Islands and when immi- himself strongly in the mercantile life of gration was permitted the Government of the kingdom. In the marshy coast reg- Japan closely supervised and regulated ions and fertile mountain valleys he open- every detail thereof. Up to the present ed profitable rice plantations, redeeming time the Asiatic has had only an eco- valueless waste lands and adding greatly nomic value in the social equation. So to the wealth of the country, the income far as the institutions, laws, customs and of the native proprietors and the revenues language of the permanent population go of the government. His competition was his presence is no more felt than is that not felt as much as his services were ap- of the cattle upon the mountain ranges. preciated, and he was treated according- At present Hawaii is as characteristically ly. Visitors from California speak of his American as any place on the mainland. superiority to the Chinese of the Coast A deficiency of laborers is not a new or as if he came from a different quarter of unusual thing in Hawaii, but it is a the globe, but he is simply the cousin or source of more financial loss and admin- brother of the latter, developed under a istrative embarrassment in sugar produc- different environment. The Chinese now tion than in most other industries. Cane form but a small proportion of the total can neither be cut nor planted at random laboring force. In a total of 45,000 seasons, even where the climate is as there are only 3100 Chinese. equable as it is in the Hawaiian islands. The Japanese, who predominate as Delays in planting or grinding due to an plantation laborers, make more demands inadequate force of laborers mean finan- upon a plantation manager in the way of cial losses by which a plantation in a 354 THE MID-PACIFIC single season may eat up two or three The question is sometimes put : "You years' profits. Insufficient cultivation are short of labor now, what are you may produce almost equally bad result:,. going to do in ten years from now ?" Ordinary expenses for irrigation, manu- The only answer that can be made to facture, or land rentals, which are very this question is : "We have been short high in portions of Hawaii, remain vir- of labor for the last fifty years and have tually the same, irrespective of the size of still managed to exist and to increase the the crop. A single plantation on the production of sugar." This existence island of Hawaii, which produced slightly has been bought at a tremendous cost and under 8000 tons of sugar in 1901-1902, there is very little to show for this ex- spends upon an average of $80,000 a year penditufe in the way of permanent popu- for fertilizers. Through lack of culti- lation. No increase in wages that the vators at one time a very considerable planters can afford will hold the laborers. fraction of this investment was exhaust- Wages are approximately the same ed in producing weeds instead of cane. throughout the Territory for the different In a word, no matter how men may classes of work, but they can not com- come and men may go, the processes of pare with the wages offered on the main- nature go on upon a plantation without land for railroad construction and other interruption. The plariter has to keep employment. up with them. He is not like the manu- • facturer or the miner, who can employ At the same time the conditions here idle periods to repair a plant or sell sur- are superior to those in most laboring plus stock, or can recoup temporary communities ; quafters are better than losses by higher prices in the future. He those furnished in most parts of the can not dictate to the processes of pro- United States ; there is more certainty duction; the manufacturing side of his of regular employment, school advant- business obeys the agricultural. Like the ages are equal to any offered on the small farmer, he is subservient to wind mainland, public services of all sorts are and weather, but, unlike him, he is at the good and the general standard of living head of a vast enterprise combining with and civilization is as high in the islands its agricultural features the characteristics as anywhere on the coast. of a manufacturing industry and a com- General matters of labor in connection mercial establishment. His dependence with the plantations are handled by the upon satisfactory labor conditions is bureau of labor and statistics of the Ha- therefore unique. It is not primarily a question of wages, but certainty and as- waiian Sugar Planters' Association, or- surance of an abundant supply of work- ganized in 1908. The most important er§ that interest him. matter that this bureau has had to deal With the rigid enforcement of the with was the .protracted strike of Jap- Chinese exclusion act, the stopping of im- anese laborers on Oahu plantations in migration from Japan, and the preven- 1909. The present director of the bureau tion of contract labor from abroad, our is Royal D. Mead. W. H. Babbitt is as- natural sources of labor have been sistant director. closed. Attempts have been made to Another efficient form of co-operation bring immigrants from New York, se- in the conduct of the sugar industry of curing them as they arrived from Europe, Hawaii has been the formation of the but the difficulty of getting these people Sugar Factors' Company, a comporation across to the Hawaiian islands without representing approximately 80 per cent losing them to employers is very serious of the sugar output of the islands. Its and it has been found that nearly all principal functions are to act as the sales European immigrants arriving in the and transportation agent for the planta- Eastern ports are already booked for tions interested therein. By this means places on the mainland. the handling and disposition of the sugar THE MID -PACIFIC 355 crops has been greatly facilitated and competition of the mainland sugar re- the expense reduced. finers. In 1906 the Hawaiian planters Until recent years all the Hawaiian again established their own refinery at sugar crop has been sold in a raw state Crockett, on San Francisco bay, and in to sugar refineries in the United States. a short time were able to compete with Several attempts have heretofore been other sugar refiners, on the Pacific made to establish refineries in California, Coast and as far east as Missouri river but have failed to succeed against the points.
A typical fieldhand's house. 356 THE MID-PACIFIC Pago Pago Harbor, U. S. A. Naval Station in Samoa.
Americanizing Samoa
B1) FREDERICK BRIGGS.
EW people know anything about death. The soul of the "Seven Seas" the port of Pago-}ago, Tutuila, hangs in these palm-fringed, coral-girted F Samoa, in the far South Seas. isles. Weary men find here the rest of The sun comes up like a crash the worn river that reaches at last the of clanging cymbals down in "Pangee- sea. Pangee," and when the tropic twilight Here the ten commandments are nil. dies before it is born, the Southern Cross It is only the Governor with his gunboat gets tangled in the royal stays of a trader and "Feeta-Feeta" guard that make com- or glows warmly through a rift in the mandments. No more may the natives fringe of palms. Deep, soft, and never- cook missionaries, or trade their young ceasing comes the thunder of the surf as women off for gin. The Governor frowns the great green swells pound on the coral on gin, and protects the missionary. More reefs. Through the groves of fruit and than a hundred of the sturdiest, finest palm the evening brings a barbaric chant young warriors of American Samoa have of native songs. Songs to their island discarded their head-knives to wear the home—its fruit, flowers, and ancient regulation web-belt and Krag bayonet. kings—songs to the warm, scented winds They also sport a blue cloth about their and the mother sea. waists and a little blue skull cap. For This is one of the old ports of missing fulldress occasions there is added a men: one of the havens of slave-girl sleeveless undershirt. dealers, gin-runners, mutineers, and can- The native guardsmen, called by their nibal feasts. Here is the atmosphere that countrymen "Feeta-Feetas," serve as po- called Robert Louis Stevenson and held lice in American Samoa. There is rarely him, willing captive, to the day of his any trouble. The islanders know that the
357 358 THE MID-PACIFIC
white man is strongest, and they submit to own an umbrella and a baby carriage. to things that they don't want, and never These articles are the brand of social ex- will understand, like philosophers. They cellence, the acme of exclusiveness. The pay their coconut tax for the building of paths and trails are too rough generally roads and schools, and, even against their for a baby buggy, and a Samoan, young natures are becoming outwardly civilized. or old, male or female, has about as much For obvious reasons, the missionaries, use for an umbrella as has a frog, or a and others who Lave the "welfare of the sunflower. But no matter, the native poor natives at heart," have never taught woman wants them just the same, to flash them the commercial value of money or about, like our own society dame with the principle of trading for white men's her ostentatious and useless lorgnette. goods. A nickel is legal tender, but a Fans, mats, tapa cloths, war-clubs, dime is entirely too small for a Samoan. headknives, kava-bowls, beads, shells, They show the proper respect for gold, fruits and flowers, are passed over the though a brightly polished penny has side in exchange for anything from good been known to accomplish as much as the coin to a half a box of shoe polish. genuine yellow metal. They measure There are some enterprising laundry- money in shillings. Everything is worth men in Samoa. They accept white col- a shilling. A pair of coconuts is worth lars, cuffs, shirts, etc., with the calm as- a shilling. A boat load fetches the same surance of a Parisian cleaner. They ‘re- price. You pay the boatman with the turn them the same way. only the linen is smallest coin you have, above a dime. no longer white. Shreds of fiber, vege- Though ignorant of money values, the table stains, coconut oil, and scorched Samoan is sometimes a shrewd trader. A spots are beaten, ground, and forever giant warrior has been known firmly to pounded into the cloth. Protests are of insist upon an entire three-cake box of no avail. The big, bronzed laundryman Pears' soap in exchange for a woven mat will stay on deck for hours waiting for that took his wife, or one of his wives, his pay. Cuss him and he grins. Show months, if not a year to make. The sailor him, man to man, that he owes you for artfully holds the box of perfumed soap the spoiled linen and his silent, fat mirth nearer and nearer his victim. Its delicate is positively infectious. Have him put aroma distends the nostrils of the savage, over the side by force and he paddles until, with a cry of delight, he yields up away in his outrigger canoe still grin- the mat for one—just one—of the cakes ning. They are peaceable as fat cows. of soap. It was not desired for his toilet Samoans are very hospitable. One gets set. White people are ignorant of a great many invitations as : many things, among them being the fact "You come my house. You my fren'. that scented soap makes ravishing soup. I got nice girl. She sing. She make And it may also be cut into little cubes nice dance. She make kava-drink." and used as a confection, after the man- However, one is expected to bring a ner of a high school girl with a box of can of salmon, or some article of white chocolate creams. man's food when accepting such kind A square of tapa cloth, made from offers. wood fiber, draped about the loins, con- At the Samoan's house you sit on a stitutes the native dress. However, they clean straw mat. If you stay overnight go into ecstacies over civilized clothes. It you sleep on the same. A thin tapa cloth is never too warm in Samoa for a native serves to keep you warm and to keep off to parade in an overcoat, or sweater, or the mosquitoes. Your weary head is plug hat, or all three together. They do Tested on a long joint of four-inch bam- not incline to trousers or shoes. No shoe boo, fitted up with two little legs at either could be found large enough to fit an end to prevent it turning. adult Samoan. Meal-time is more enjoyable. With a The dream of every Samoan woman is few white man delicacies to stir them to THE MID-PACIFIC 359 extra efforts, the women will prepare a are crushed up in the bottom of a big feast that a cracker-eating Rockefeller kava-bowl. Water is added, and the girl would enjoy. A chicken and small pig is draws a vegetable-fiber dish-rag through killed and dressed, wrapped in green the bowl again and again, stirring the leaves and roasted in the ground, or root pulp about and wringing the rag turned on a spit over the coals. Several dry after each act. Soon the water takes varieties of fish are treated in the same on a dirty, milkish hue and the kava is way. Bananas and plantains are baked ready to be served in the polished bowls. in the ashes, and some prepared raw. An excellent imitation of kava can be Some fine, fresh coconuts are halved made by seasoning dirty dish-water with neatly and the cups filled with the sweet, tabasco sauce and licorice, to suit the rich milk. taste. But you must like it ! The Sa- While this is going on, one of the girls moan host watches your face like a hawk wraps a large square mat with broad, when you take the first sip. It is good green banana leaves. This is placed on form to smile, nod happily, and say: the ground and used for the table. The "Lee Lay," the same being a cannibal roast chicken and pig with the fruits and term meaning "fine !" vegetables are spread out on the green As the evening advances, the "nice girl mat, and all hands turn to. For season- may make nice dance and sing." The ing, there is a polished coconut cup filled dance, called "Siva-siva," is a libel on the with seawater. When it is emptied, a performance that made the Chicago Mid- little, naked, dirty boy goes whooping way famous ; a sister to the Hawaiian down to the sea and refills it. For eating hula-hula, and a credit to Maude Allan utensils you have always your eight fing- at her best—no apologies appended. All ers and two handy thumbs. hands join in the song, and clap their The kava comes last. This is a sacred palms together. The words are easy, as Samoan custom. You must like the kava. every third or fourth is Sa-mo-a. The It is always prepared by the prettiest girl natives are intensely patriotic when they in the house. Bits of dried, white root sing. The dance is merely intense.
Lava Flowing into the Sea in Samoa. 360 THE MID-PACIFIC The lava flow of 1880 near Hilo and the fern and Ohia growing there.
Plant In asion on Lava
By CHAS. N. FORBES.
URING an excursion on the Isl- mainly at an elevation of 4500 feet, which and of Hawaii for the purpose is just above the dense forest belt. One D of collecting botanical material trip was made to the summit of Mauna for the Bishop Museum, an ad- Loa on the Kailua side, and from numer- mirable opportunity was offered for mak- ous localities the forest was penetrated in ing observations on the colonization of a all directions ; the region below the Gov- portion of the lava flows of Mauna Loa. ernment road in Kona and the shore line Although a limited portion of the moun- being the only portions from which a rep- tain has been covered, and observations resentative collection of plants was not of this character should extend over a taken. number of years, it is believed that data This territory is on the dry or lee side of enough interest was obtained for rec- of the island, and for that reason the ord at this time. naturalization of plants on the lava flows The region visited extends from Puu- may vary somewhat from that of the waawaa, over the summit of Hualalai, moister regions ; but it is believed that through the districts of Kona and Kau, the main factors will prove to be the
361 362 THE MID-PACIFIC
same, except for, rapidity of invasion. pahoehoe, not scoriaceous ; but externally The general characteristics of the Hawai- it is roughly cavernous, horribly jagged, ian vegetation have been described by with projections often a foot or more several writers, and in this paper it is the long that are gristled all over with points intention to discuss only the flora in the and angles. In some cases ragged spaces immediate vicinity of the flows visited. extend along planes through the large There is probably no better locality in masses, like those of the exterior." Both the world for observing the colonization kinds of lava may be represented in the of lava flows than the slopes of Mauna same flow, either in different parts or Loa. The whole mountain is a gigantic closely associated. Many hundreds of mass of these lava streams which radiate these two classes of flows were passed on all sides from the summit, 13,675 feet, over during the excursion. to sea level. The later flows have gen- The first flow of known date visited erally arisen from sources below the was that of 1859. This flow was follow- summit. The different flows have had ed from a point west of Puuwaawaa irregular courses. Many of them in flow- down to where it crosses the Govern- ing over older streams have left areas of ment road. It is composed of both aa various sizes of the older flow surround- and pahoehoe. The aa assumes the posi- ed on all sides by the newer flow, with- tion of a winding river through the pa- out apparently harming the vegetation hoehoe. In places the pahoehoe has of the resulting island to any appreciable flowed around portions of the aa in an ir- extent. The surrounded areas, known regular manner, leaving sunken islands to the natives as "kipuka," may be above of aa varying from a few feet to half an or even below the surface of the sur- acre in area. From the close interrela- rounding flow. Fortunately for a study tions between the two there is no doubt of this sort the age of many of these that both belong to the same flow. The flows is known. pahoehoe is jet black and new looking, The lava flows are of two kinds, gen- while the aa has a chocolate tinge, it erally simply described as the smooth or also appearing very new as compared to slaggy, and the rough or scoriaceous ; adjacent flows. but as these regions differ so much from After several hours spent on the flow the country generally traversed by botan- it became apparent that, with the excep- ists, I quote the fuller word picture of tion of the lower cryptogams, most of the Dana. "There is the ordinary smooth- vegetation was supported on the pahoe- surfaced lava called pahoehoe, the term hoe and not on the aa. As this was con- signifying having a satin-like aspect. The trary to what I had expected and had surface of the lava cooled as it flowed. heard generally expressed on these isl- Through one means and another the sur- ands, I gave particular attention to this face is usually uneven, being often point, and also directed my guide to call wrinkled, twisted, ropy, billowy, hum- my attention to any plants he might see mocked, knobbed, and often fractured. on the aa. A portion of the aa stream * * * The other most prominent kind of was followed for a considerable distance lava stream is the aa. The aa streams down the center, but nothing was ob- have no upper flow-like surface ; they are tained save a liberal supply of cuts and beds of broken up lava, the breaking of bruises. This scarcity of plants was which occurred during the flow. They even true for the small sunken areas of consist of detached masses of irregular aa, which of all places one would think would be admirable traps for catching shapes, confusedly piled together to a seeds and spores. The aa portions of the height sometimes of twenty-five to forty flow are often white with a certain lichen, feet above the general surface. The size and a closer search reveals an occasional of the masses is from an inch in diameter moss, but there are no ferns or phaner- to ten feet and more. The lava is corn- \ ogams, except on the contact line with pact, usually less vesiculated than the the pahoehoe. THE MID -PACIFIC 363
The plants which occur on the pahoe- a short distance above Puu o Keokeo, hoe are to be found growing in the which is about two and one-half miles numerous small cracks which cross the above Puu Ohia. At this point the flow flow in various directions, especially is entirely pahoehoe, very shiny black where the flow is at all billowy, and be- and fresh looking. tween the folds of the ropy lava. The All of these plants are indigenous and smoother portions are entirely bare of constitute the prevailing flora at this ele- any vegetation. Such cracks act as riffles vation. The naturalized flora is not yet to catch either disintegrated particles of established to any considerable extent on the flow itself, or dust and other refuse this portion of Mauna Loa. which may be blown over the smooth The 1907 flow was visited later at the portions from the outside. At one place place where it crosses the Government I noticed several hundred dead shells of road on. the Kona side. At this point it Eulota similaris being blown across a is aa and supports no vegetation except portion of the flow, many of them being an occasional lichen or moss, apparent caught in the cracks. Such soil is stop- only on minute examination. ped on the edge of an aa flow, while ap- The flow of 1823 was visited where it parently not enough accumulates by the crosses the Kau Desert. It is pahoehoe, weathering of the flow itself in this period but unfortunately much of the vegetation of time to fill its smallest spaces. had been eaten by goats just before my Many plants were observed scattered visit. In a deep crack which crosses the here and there in the cracks on the pa- flow, practically all the species of plants hoehoe, but they were in no case in suf- which occur in the surrounding region ficient quantity to be conspicuous from a were observed. distance. Another recent but unrecorded aa flow With the exception of Metrosideros was visited above Kapapala near the old polymorpha, which is the prevailing tree, Kahuku trail. With the exception of a these plants do not give a conspicuous few lichens, no vegetation was observed aspect to the flora in the immediate upon it. vicinity of the flow, but constitute what From these observations of the plant might be classified as the weeds. I be- invasion on the flows of known date the lieve that distribution is mainly by wind, following summary might be obtained : although cattle and goats occasionally 1. A few lower cryptogams, followed cross the flow. by ferns and phanerogams first become Several days later this flow was again established on the pahoehoe. visited at a somewhat higher elevation, 2. Lower cryptogams become establish- at a place not far distant from the Judd ed on the aa at an early data, and eventu- road, and about ten miles above Puuwaa- ally cover the flow to a considerable ex- waa. There was relatively less vegeta- tent, some of these species being rather tion, but distribution was the same as rare on the pahoehoe. observed in the first case. At this place 3. Ferns and phanerogams only become there are several islands of an ancient aa established on the aa a long period of flow which are covered with vegetation. time after these become established on From a station called Honomalino the pahoehoe of the same age, other condi- flows of 1887 and 1907 were visited. The tions being the same. flow of 1887 was observed at the place 4. The plants to be found on the new where it branches and flows around a flow are the same as those found on older cone called Puu Ohia. Both branches were flows in the immediate vicinity. composed of extremely rough aa and 5. A fertile soil is apparently formed in supported no vegetation, with the excep- the cracks of the pahoehoe sooner than tion of a few Metrosideros on the contact amongst the aa particles. edges with the older flows. Metrosideros polymorpha is one of the The 1907 flow was visited at a point important plants which prepare the way 364 THE MID-PACIFIC
■ IN
The tree fern and the Ohia are here seen growing side by side upon a field of lava. Trees rot, fall and make soil. In time such a forest is torn out and sugar cane planted on the rich soil above the lava flow. THE MID -PACIFIC 365
for the establishment of many plants on and when one finds an aa flow support- the flow. The roots spread over the ing koa, it must be relatively very much smooth portions of the flow, often from older than other aa flows in the vicinity. one orack to another, forming pockets to In later years, however, outside influ- catch the soil formed of dead leaves and ences, especially cattle grazing, have con- other debris. siderably changed the floral aspect of the In viewing the older flows it is rather country in certain places. On account of difficult to ascertain their relative ages, greater ease for penetration, a more suc- for the reason that the Hawaiian flora as-. culent undergrowth, and perhaps more sumes its mature form at an early date. available water, cattle have worked their In the scrub region above the wet for- way into the forests on the pahoehoe and ests there is no great distinction between destroyed the undergrowth. In a few the flora of the pahoehoe and the aa. The years the introduced flora becomes es- latter, however, has a greater proportion tablished, and a park-like meadow, of lichens ; occasionally these plants oc- usually in every sense an ideal pasture, is the result. However, the indigenous cupy the aa to the exclusion of all other trees, which after many years have be- vegetation. The prevailing plants are come adapted to the dense undergrowth, Cyathodes Tameiamefriae, Dodonaea vis- epiphytic creepers and moist soil, are cosa, scrub Metrosideros polvmorpha, So- much weakened, and are not able to with- phora chrysophylla and other character- stand the new, more xerophytic condi- istic mountain plants. Large portions of tions. The weakened trees eventually either variety of flows are bare rock, and fall an easy prey to destructive insects, when a soil is formed it is usually a very but as far as I was able to observe were thin layer, limited almost exclusively to not touched by the cattle. the pahoehoe. The cattle penetrate to a much less de- In the densel forests of the rainy belt gree on the aa owing to its rough char- there is usually a good soil on the pahoe- acter, while the more xerophytic under- hoe varying from six inches to a few growth is less succulent. When they do, feet in depth, sometimes only the tops of the character of the flora is less changed the billows remaining in sight to record for the reason that complete destruction the character of the flow. The aa, how- of the undergrowth is impossible, while ever, with few exceptions, still retains its this ohia, which has not become adapted rough file-like character. I find that the to such wet conditions as the koa, does dense koa forests where Acacia koa is the not succumb to insect attack. Ohia varies prevailing tree, with a thick undergrowth tremendously with the habitat, but any of ferns, labiates and innumerable other great change in conditions would prob- species, are limited with remarkably few ably affect it the same as koa. exceptions, as far as the forests of Kona From the preceding paragraphs it are concerned, to the pahoehoe. must not be inferred that ohia forests are From any hill the traveler through this not found on some pahoehoe flows ; for district can pick out the aa flow from a the dampest, and consequently the den- distance by the lines of ohia forests, sest forests on these islands are composed which divide the koa into sections. When of this species ; but the prevailing tree in he arrives at the rocky flow he will find the upper forests of the middle zone on a totally different character of under- the lee side of Hawaii is koa, while ohia growth. From this, I believe that the is apparently not the final type for this koa forest is the final type for this region, section.
5-M. P. 366 THE MID-PACIFIC Triangular Arch, West Facade of the Governor's Palace.
A An Ancient American City
By SYLVANUS G. MORLEY.
HE second city in point of size east to west, and is about 100 miles from and importance in ancient Yuca- Chichen Itza. Not unexpectedly the de- T tan was TJxmal, the capital of rivation of the name Uxmal or Oxmal, as the Xiu or Tutul Xiu family, some of the early historians wrote it, is who ruled there almost down to the time rather obscure. "Ox" is the Maya word of the Spanish conquest. This city is lo- for three, and "Mal" in the same langu- cated in the midst of a low range of hills, age means to pass ; "to pass thrice," which crosses the State of Yucatan from therefore, would seem to be the meaning
367 368 THE MID-PACIFIC of the word, though why the Tutul Xiu Testament. Immediately after their ar- should have applied this name to their rival, the wanderers began building in capital is unknown. the mountains not thirty miles distant Concerning the foundation of Uxmal, from the capital a new home for them- the following tradition is related by Diego selves, which they called Uxmal. Far de Landa, the second bishop of Yucatan, from being angered, however, by this ap- who wrote in the first generation after propriation of his territory so near at the conquest, and who claims to have hand, Cocom, the ruler of the Mayapan, gathered his information from natives welcomed Tutul Xiu and his people, and well versed in the former history of their entered into an alliance with them. country: After the discovery and occu- Landa thus describes the event : pation of Chichen Itza, which seems to The people of Mayapan formed a great have been the first place of any import- friendship with the Tutul Xiu, rejoicing to ance to be settled in Yucatan, cities see that they cultivated the land like them- sprang up everywhere, and there follow- selves. In this manner the Tutul Xiu be- ed an era of great prosperity. How long came subject to the laws of Mayapan, and these different cities lived at peace with allied themselves with the older inhabitants one another we are not told, but in time of the country, and their lord was highly dissensions arose, and quarrels became esteemed by all. so frequent that the different lords of the country found it necessary to take some Judging from its size and magnificence concerted action in order to suppress vio- the Xiu capital must have played a very lence and to restore order and peace. It important role in the history of Yucatan was then decided to build a joint capital, before the Spanish conquest. Indeed, where all those in authority should re- Landa says as much. side, and from which each one agreed to After a time, we are told, the supreme administer the affairs of his own partic- power held by the Cocom family seems ular domain.. Without loss of time these to have turned their heads. They became plans were carried out. A joint capital successively more and more oppressive, was built in a new and unoccupied region, each striving to outdo his precessors in and was called "Mayapan," meaning "the acts of tyranny and violence. However, standard of the Mayas." Thither all the there came a day at last when the other lords assmbled and as the final step in chiefs of the confederacy could no longer the formation of the new confederacy, endure this despotic rule, and a con- an overlord, one Cocom, was elected and spiracy was hatched to overthrow the op- duly installed in the new capital as the pressor. With one accord, the conspira- supreme ruler. These cucuts laid the tors turned to the then Lord of Uxmal, a foundation for an era of prosperity, descendent of the original Tutul Xiu, which endured for many years. Later, who had founded the city, as the natural after an interval not specified by Landa leader in this movement for liberty, in in his history, there entered the country spite of the fact that he was of foreign from the south an alien people under the descent. He is described as having been leadership of their chief, Tutul Xiu. The a true friend of the public weal, as his newcomers, previous to their arrival, had ancestors before him, all of whom had wandered for forty years in the wilder- held resolutely aloof from the tyrannies ness without water other than that which of the Cocom family. On an appointed had fallen from the skies. This coinci- day the conspirators, led by the Lord of dence of a "forty-years' wandering in the Uxmal, met at Mayapan, and entering wilderness" is sufficiently striking to the palace of Cocom slew him and all his arouse the suspicion that the worthy progeny, save one son only, who hap- bishop, in this part of his narrative, has pened to be absent from the city at the been at some pains to force a pious coin- time on a mission to a distant province. cidence with a similar episode in the Old After this sanguinary reprisal, which THE MID-PACIFIC 369 avenged at one blow the oppressions of The splendid temple surmounting this, many years, the property of the dead grotesquely called the House of the ruler was seized and divided among his Dwarf or Magician, probably was the murderers, and the capital was destroyed. chief sanctuary of Uxmal. The pyramid Whereupon each chief departed into his on which it stands is over 80 feet high own country once more and the con- and covers nearly an acre of ground. federacy was dissolved. After the de- The summit is reached by a steep stair- struction of Mayapan, the Tutul Xiu way on its east and apparently back side. abandoned Uxmal and founded a new The temple, however, faces in the op- capital some thirty miles distant which posite direction, or toward the Monja's they called "Mani," meaning in Maya "it Quadrangle, an adjacent group of struc- is passed," emphasizing by this name that tures, with which, as we presently shall the tyranny was over. These events oc- see, it was closely connected. Clear curred about the middle of the fifteenth down into Spanish times, long after century, or some seventy years before the Uxmal had been abandoned by her na- Spanish first landed in Yucatan ; but even tive rulers, this temple was held in par- after the conquest, the Xius in their new ticular veneration by the Indians. About home continued to exercise considerable a century after the conquest, Father authority over the natives, and their Cogolludo, provincial of Yucatan, visited friendly attitude toward the Spanish Uxmal and climbed to the summit of this greatly, facilitated the final pacification pyramid. He found there, he says, in one of the country. of the apartments offerings of cacao The ruins of Uxmal are best reached and the remains of copal, burned but a today by stage from the little town of short time before. This he thought in- Muna, the nearest railroad station. A. dicated that some superstition or idolatry ten mile drive from the latter place brings had been committed here recently by the one to the hacienda of Uxmal, from Indians of the locality. And again, which the ruins are about a mile and a slightly later in 1673, a petition addressed half distant. The first view of the an- to the King of Spain says : cient city is to be had from the top of a That the Indians in those places (Uxmal) hill just behind the plantation house. are worshipping the devil in the ancient Across the plain a dozen or more impos- buildings which are there, having in them ing structures of white limestone may be their idols, to which they burn copal and seen rising about the dense vegetation perform other detestable sacrifices. which here enshrouds the countryside. Beyond, in the distance, a ragged chain Long after the conquest, no doubt, the of low mountains cuts across the horizon, natives continued to practice in secret each succeeding ridge a deeper blue. But their ancient rites and ceremonies, par- one does not dwell long on the beauties ticularly at those places which formerly of nature at Uxmal ; the habitations of a had been sacred or holy to them. It was bygone race claim the attention. De- to some such survivals of the ancient scending the hill again, one takes the ceremonial and ritual that the above cita- road which leads through the bush. The tions probably refer. distant temples and palaces sink below The Monj as Quadrangle, mentioned the tree tops and for aught that one sees above as being adjacent to the House of of them they might as well be on the the Dwarfs, is, in fact, separated from it other side of the world. After a half only by a small court. The four low hour's walk, during which the ruins never massive buildings, of which it is com- once reappear, the road suddenly makes posed, are built around the sides of a a sharp turn to the right, and just in square, and, with the exception of the front of one apparently blocking the house on the south side, all stand on way, there rises a lofty pyramid, the low platforms or terraces reached by highest structure in the city. broad stairways extending across their 370 THE MID-PACIFIC fronts. The rooms of this group, of feet in diameter. Both of these, however, which there are upward of 100, are en- are now broken, and lie in fragments at tered for the most part by doorways the bases of their respective walls. opening onto the terraces which sur- Beyond the ball court there is a high round the court. A few, however, in the terrace or platform, covering over three South House open exteriorly with refer- acres of ground, and rising 23 feet above ence to the group. This same side of the plain. This supports a second and the quadrangle is further differentiated smaller terrace, 19 feet high, from which from the other three, by the presence of rises the so-called governor's palace— an arcade passing through the middle, the most magnificent example of ancient which leads from the court to the out- American architecture extant today. side. This passageway doubtless was the This palace, for such it is in every main entrance to the group in ancient sense of the word, faces east, and, by times, and establishes the direction from reason of its elevation, forty-odd feet which it was approached. The four above the plain, commands an extensive houses of the Monjas Quadrangle differ view of the city. It is 325 feet long, 39 very greatly in their character, and prob- feet wide, and 25 feet high. The exter- ably in their function as well, from the ior walls are decorated with an elaborate House of the Dwarf near by. The build- sculptural mosaic, in the making of ings of the former stand upon low plat- which it is estimated upward of 20,000 forms and have many rooms. The latter sculptured pieces of stone, weighing as on the other hand surmounts a lofty high as 100 pounds, were used. The pyramid and only has three rooms. The background of this elaborate mosaic is a first because of the greater number and lattice pattern, upon which the other accessibility of its chambers is better fit- decorative elements present appear to be ted for use as a dwelling place for a overlaid. In reality these simply pro- body of priests than the second. The ject from the wall farther than the lattice second because of its commanding eleva- pattern, though the deception has been tion and fewer chambers is better adapt- executed so cleverly that the effect is that ed for use as a place of worship than the of applique. first. The close connection between the This building is divided into three two types so different and yet so com- parts, a large middle section and two plementary strongly indicates that the smaller ends, by two arcades passing priests, who officiate in the service of the clear through, after the manner of the god to whom the House of the Dwarf arcade in the House of the Monjas was consecrated, lived in the rooms of Quadrangle already described. For some the Monjas Quadrangle. The two unknown reason these arcades seem to groups, the lofty pyramid temple and the have fallen into disuse as passages be- low multi-celled monastery together form fore the city was abandoned, since they a well-balanced combination. are now blocked up and each one con- Passing out through the arcade of the verted into two small rooms. South House and leaving the Monjas Behind the governor's palace, and on Quadrangle behind, one descends by the tower of its two terraces, is the so- three terraces, partly artificial and partly called House of the Turtles. This struc- natural, to the level of the plain. A few ture is characterized by a simplicity in paces to the south may be seen two large its decoration, rather unusual in Maya parallel walls, 70 feet apart, each 128 architecture. The lower half of the fa- feet wide, 30 feet thick, and about 20 cade is. plain. The upper half consists feet high. These two constructions are of a continuous row of small columns, the sides of the Uxmal ball court—the which appear to support the cornice, ends being open. In the center of each though in reality they serve no struc- at ends directly opposite there had been tural purpose whatsoever, being purely fastened originally a great stone ring 4 ornamental. At regular intervals along THE MID -PACIFIC 371 this cornice are sculptured the turtles, we can judge from the size of the city which have given to the building its which grew up here. name, though their significance is un- The structures described above are by known. The House of the Turtles over- no means all that remains of this an- looks and faces the southern end of the cient city. Truth is that the jungle on ball court with which for this reason it every side for some little distance hides may have been associated in some way. the wrecks of once imposing buildings, It is one of the multiple-room type of their presence now only to be detected structures, having seven chambers, and by clumps of vegetation rising slightly probably was used as a dwelling place higher than the general level of the rather than a sanctuary. plain. These buildings and their sub- The water supply at Uxmal must structures have been literally torn asun- have presented a serious problem to the der by trees which have driven their founders of the city. There are no roots into them and pried apart the cenotes here as at Chichen Itza, great masonry. Creepers, vines, and bushes natural reservoirs which afforded an in- have so overgrown their sides that they exhaustable supply of water to a well- look like wooded hillocks. Only on nigh unlimited population. And as for close examination does their real char- surface waters, - such as lakes, rivers, acter appear, and it remains for the springs, and brooks, there are none to imagination to reconstruct their former be found in the whole of northern Yu- glory. But all this ancient life, this catan. Indeed, were it not for the heavy great city once teeming with its toiling rains which fall almost daily for six thousands, is gone. Palaces and temples months, June to December, the country glisten in the sunlight, with never the would be as parched and devoid of veg- tread of sandled foot echoing through etation as the Sahara Desert. Deprived their empty courts nor chant of white- 'robed priests sacrificing to offended of those natural sources of water upon gods. Perchance a bird may flutter which other peoples depend, the found- through some ruined doorway, chirping ers of Uxmal were compelled to de- for its mate, or buzzard circling high vise some means of catching the rain- soar above prospective prey. Save these water as it fell and stowing it for use all else is silent dead, the ancient pomp in the dry season when skies and earth and glory forever departed, and gods were equally dry. How successfully and men alike forgotten in the onward they met and overcame this difficulty sweep of time. 372
• ■• I. •
104 • •
AIL- -t, '''.., ',.').
,•,,,. THE MID-PACIFIC ''''''''' Ai , 'S lip,- , , Au ‘,x, , - ,, .* j. , if , , •-ii v ,,,.., , . 716, •
,,. ,
,, y•,--.d.,-.t..' '%.".',;' de, ;1, '" - , ',..;' ' • , .;„ ,6' ...., .'‘, ..4 .161: ..; '''''''' '.;,1,...„;;;„,,,!, -.4W4 !'4-)11:.''''' + ,,, ,.-4,i , \ ititg ,„. 4e.4.. *-',":di ,„ .74. i• -,:—Ilz" 1:',77:.-1.,V., P' =, r*, t„.., '4,,,.. 14;:aae. t.s°.. '..'":„ ;'..4 , -;i,*4, Z.0.-t ' ‘ , ..,,, ' '"=-..i- '::--' AtItti 4, -.R›,,4',11,f', ,, fi wii • 1, ,-.... "..-7;iU1,*7,:„'0 • : .,,, :, A,:' 4.411.1: , :. 41, .,,31.4‘2, Ofk,*:tilg-:,.. 1--•,'''",'''',: ,;4i-AS..; 44,:,:.t.. l .,: k:4z ,.. i:,..,. /, ifilk , v.-', '14 '''''. '., 1:,, . t' -1: 1....,,,..,4 7411 i:,-.. 41V .W-)17,01.Ffr '•:;...'.`;1,* ' .,..-0; ,,,:.,,,, :,,t1.1Y31' ''.1 . ",..' , '''':,4:::< '7 2: ,'"*.. tt. ').14.F.': . ■ ,'',.. :;ftrI2 '''A% 11 .**-'1, - 44,....;:1„.. °:' .*: c1-,..:Z *„. , , ;,*;;• 1i1 ,''.44.1 "P I .7.,,;--;,•4 '. 1 ';:' 4.4, g414 4.‘i'4,'41• .itt AA., ' t 44 ::!1 ':V4..- =. .---;,'`Pt '' 41 7.1'11 ''12 ..1. :' — - ''' ''
On Lanai, the horses and cattle feed upont he rich juicy cactus whichis both food anddr ink to them. Lanai from Maui.
Some Rarely Visited Islands
By ZEB HASTINGS U
HE average tourist to Hawaii from it, in order to climb the interest- visits of course the Volcano of ing mountain of Haleakala or to make T Kilauea, as well as spending the circuit of East Maui with its won- several days on Oahu taking in derful scenery, and to see something of the various points of interest in the me- other places that make Maui so worth tropolis and the surrounding country. while to the visitor. A few newcomers also include a trip Aside from these trips, the average town to Kauai and enjoy the beauties of traveller to Hawaii sees but little else "The Garden Island." There are others of the islands and judges them all by also who make it a point to see some- the impression he has gathered during thing of Maui, the second largest island his sojourn on Hawaii, Maui, Oahu of the group, stopping off either on their and Kauai. To be sure the remaining way to the Volcano or on their return portions of the group are smaller and
373 374 THE MID-PACIFIC less important from every standpoint from Oahu, is less known to the general than the four largest islands, but they public than islands of the group much nevertheless present features of much further away from Honolulu. There interest to him who is seeking for the are some good reasons for this, the novel, the beautiful and the attractive. chief one being perhaps the infrequent There are some islands rarely visited transportation service between Molokai which form a part of the county of and Oahu. The Mikahala goes up each Maui, and which are but little more Tuesday afternoon and returns on Sun- known to the residents of Honolulu day morning, and this is the only reg- than to the stranger within our gates. ular means of reaching the island. An- Easily reached and accessible to ka- other reason is the lack of hotels and ar- maaina and malilvini alike, they are still rangements for entertaining tourists but little visited and are as closed books while on Molokai. to the great majority who reside in the Leaving this island on the port side, metropolis. These four islands may all it is noticed that another island comes se seen at some distance, to be sure, by into view. It is likewise but rarely visit- anyone making the voyage to Hilo on ed by the traveler and, like Molokai, can the Mauna Kea on any Wednesday. never be appreciated from the deck of Passing along on the Inter-Island the steamer. You sometimes hear per- flagship on a Wednesday afternoon, he sons say, "Here is an island more desert- sees first of all the island of Molokai on like than Molokai," and when you tell the port side of the steamer. His im- them of the beautiful woodland and de- pression of this island, as of the other lightful little valleys rich in verdure and three rarely visited, does not correspond full of interest to the explorer, of the with the actual conditions as seen by beetling cliffs of Maunalei and Naio, of anyone who takes the time necessary to the broad expanse of the Palawai basin tour thoroly these interesting places. and other interesting places, you are met His first thought is "What a barren isl- with an incredulous stare and regarded land ! How uninviting and unattract- as dreaming and visionary. All that the ive !" Little does he know of the won- passenger on the steamer sees is a sand- derful cliffs to be found on the north- lined coast separating brown hills and ern coast of Molokai, of the unspoiled red earth from the ocean blue. Clouds valleys of Waikolu, Pelekunu and Wai- of dust may be drifting away from the lau with their virgin forests of native island to reinforce the first impression trees and cool glens, their lofty peaks that Lanai is a desolate and barren and and countless cascades. Nor does the good-for-nothing island. tourist gazing shoreward ever dream To him who is privileged to make a of the beauty of the highlands of the tour of Lanai and enter into its beauty island, thick with growths of lehua and spots comes the thought that here is other mountain trees, and visited only something unique. Each island has by wild deer and human beings ; nor something in common with the other does he ever imagine what picturesque islands and yet each island has its own spots may be seen along the eastern distinct individuality. Oahu is different shore, the clusters of coconut trees, from Molokai and Molokai is different groves of mangoes and other tropical from Lanai and Lanai is different from trees giving shade and delight to the Maui. The charm of the upland coun- traveler. try of Lanai wins the admiration of One must actually be on the island to every red-blooded man who has any see for himself these interesting scenes spark of poetry or romance in his make- and be ready to take these by-paths over up. What could be more delightful than pali and through the valleys if he would to be astride an easy-gaited horse and really become acquainted with Hawaii gallop for miles in the early morning nei. Molokai, though but twenty miles over the fern-dotted rolling country? THE MID-PACIFIC 375
Rabbit Island and the Manchuria Ashore.
What more satisfying than to ride to After the port of Lahaina on Maui is the very top of the island and to look reached by the Mauna Kea about four far across the waves to Molokai, Maui, o'clock in the afternoon and the tourist Kahoolawe and Molokini? This rarely has enjoyed the view of the coconut visited island is a paradise for the wild trees, the breadfruit, the mangoes and goats that have too long been allowed other trees that make Lahaina so at- to infest the country-side, despoil the tractive from the ocean, the steamer forests and rob the cattle and sheep of moves on to the next port of McGreg- their lawful fodder. Alarmed by the or's, scarcely an hour's steaming away. devastation and the destruction of the As the vessel slips along quietly in the woods, the owners of the island have smooth water, the traveler notices a determined upon a policy of extermina- couple of islands ahead, both on the star- tion of the festive goats and already board side, the larger island being Ka- thousands have been slaughtered during hoolawe, the smaller Molokini. These the past years. Although the reduction are smaller than Molokai and Lanai and in numbers is marked, there are still visited less frequently than the larger quite enough left to cause much damage islands. Again the impression of deso- to the mountain vegetation, and it is the lation enters the mind of the voyager as opinion of many that several years of he looks at the two islands. This time hard work must be spent before the last his impression tallies with the facts, for goat will be slain on Lanai. there are no cool, pleasant valleys with 376 THE MID-PACIFIC their leafy retreats, no waterfalls plung- prisoners being kept there, while female ing into inviting mountain pools, no offenders were stationed on Lanai. It grand forests that lure the adventurer was quite possible for any prisoner pro- to explore its thickets. Kahoolawe is ficient in the art of swimming to escape dry, hot and almost devoid of vegeta- from the dullness of prison life on Ka- tion. Save for the kiawe trees that hoolawe by breasting the waves across fringe the shore and numerous paka the channel to Molokini, resting there on trees growing here and there on the top that little isle and thence crossing over and slopes of the island, tough enough to the larger island of Maui. This ex- to resist even the awful droughts and periment was so successful in numerous unpleasant enough to be inedible for the instances that the use of Kahoolawe as goats, and a few wiliwili trees and pili a penal institution was abandoned. grass, nothing is, growing on the island Roaming about the island, one is rath- in the dry season. After a hard rain er surprised to find few evidences of wild flowers and plants will spring up human habitations, yet we know for a and flourish for a time, but the dry sea- fact that there was quite a population son destroys these givers of life and years ago. Now there is but one in- strength to the sheep and goats. habited place—the headquarters of the There is a tradition to the effect that ranch. Many are the tales of opium- years ago the summit of the island sup- smuggling that was carried on secretly ported a splendid forest of trees. Cer- not many years ago, of the caches of the tainly there is abundant evidence for the dreamy poppy that are said to be still in claim that a swamp once existed on the existence in some forgotten spot, of ex- uplands. Goats and cattle destroyed the citing pursuits of phantom ships that forest growth and underbrush, and the were supposed to bring the stuff to the strong trade winds soon worked havoc island, of mysterious rockets and other with the rich unprotected soil. It has signals seen at night by the watchful of- largely been blown away and today ficers in their camp on Moaula, the sum- clouds of red dust may often be seen mit of the island. Lonely and forlorn, stretching for miles to the leeward of the brown barren island stands sur- Kahoolawe. Now there are acres and rounded by the blue sea, a silent testi- acres of hard pan, valueless from an mony to the destructive work of the agricultural and pastoral standpoint. On goats and the ravages of the mighty the side facing East Maui is a coast-line trade-winds that sweep the hills and dry of towering cliffs that extends along the pastures of Kahoolawe for the greater eastern and southern shore for miles. part of the year. Here are the retreats of the wild goats, There is yet another island in this whence they issue forth in search of group of rarely visited ones which is un- food that lawfully belongs to the sheep. like any other in Hawaii nei. It is not Years ago a herd of one thousand five generally regarded as one of the Big hundred cattle was grazing on the isl- Eight, for it is too small and too unim- and, together with thousands of sheep, portant to be reckoned with the others. but the land was overstocked. Now Islet would be a more correct appella- there are no cattle and but four hundred tion for Molokini. Very few persons sheep. What the government will do have visited this interesting rocky isle towards conserving and protecting the which is more like a dot in the sea than island and making it of some commer- an island. In rough weather the ad- cial value, remains to be seen, and many venturer must swim ashore, thinking will view with interest the outcome of nought of the sharks that are said to in- any scheme to make that wilderness fest the water of the bay. The bluff blossom as the rose. nearest to Kahoolawe and called Lalilali Tradition says that the island was is the usual objective point for visitors. used at one time as a penal colony, male The way up to the highest spot on the THE MID-PACIFIC 377
island is rather steep. It is like climbing the prickly-pear, umbrella plant, ferns, the roof of a huge barn. One comes be- owi and other plants have been noticed fore long to the lighthouse which is ad- in various parts of the island. No ani- justed automatically and flashes out a mals aside from small lizards and flies brilliant acetylene light both by day and have been observed. The view from the night. The lighthouse tender Kukui summit is excellent. Sitting at the base makes periodical trips to Molokini and of the lighthouse with one's back to- replenishes the supply of calcium car- wards Hawaii, one has a splendid out- bide, being assisted in hauling up this look upon the islands that form Maui sine qua non for the lighthouse by a County. Beginning with Kahoolawe on derrick. The summit of the island is the left hand, he sees next the island of called Kapali and is less than two hun- Lanai, then makes out in the far dis- dred feet above the sea-level. Molokini tance Molokai, then West Maui right is shaped like a horseshoe, the western ahead of him and lastly East Maui on point being nearest Kahoolawe, the east- the right hand. A peculiar feeling en- ern point nearest Maui. The latter is ters one's mind as he gazes over the called Pahee o Lono. The inside of the ocean at these islands, only one of which horseshoe faces West Maui, forming a —Maui—is visited to any extent by the bay in which fish are plentiful. On the tourists. The thought comes to him side of the island facing Hawaii the pali that here at least are some interesting is very steep and drops straight down places which anyone may visit if he is into the sea. In spite of the fact that the formation so inclined, places well worth while to is volcanic with practically no soil upon the tourist who sets out faithfully to it, a few specimens in the vegetable explore and find out for himself the kingdom may be found here and there. plories and delights and beauties of Pili grass is the most common of all these four rarely visited islands of Mo- growing things, while lantana, cactus or lokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe and Molokini.
Kahoolawe from Lahaina. 378 THE MID-PACIFIC
An Artificial River near Honolulu. The Open Air School in Hawaii
By HENRIETTA GOODNOUGH HULL ■ ■
AWAIT'S CLIMATE, ideal for the school laws, has "you must not" on all sorts of outdoor life has the end of her tongue most of the time. H been discovered as most perfect Suppression and restraint are the two for an open-air school, a condi- destroyers of individuality in the old tion which exists the year around and schools and one cannot blame the child which places the Islands in the front who instinctively feels this danger, for rank for educational purposes. Outdoor wanting to "play hookey." school life has become such a factor in How many times can the adult readers the scientific rearing of children that all of this article, look back upon their the leading periodicals and papers are school days and remember the reason devoting much valuable spaec to the they stayed away from school was to get benefits to be derived by this modern out in the open, to go out in the woods method. and gather nuts, or on the creek, and All the world, it would seem, is talk- fish. Open-air is doing away with this ing about open-air schools. In every im- feeling of compulsory education on the portant community where children attend part of the child. His school room is public or private schools, open-air in- the great wide beautiful out-of-doors, he struction is being tested and so far there can sit in his comfortable little chair, his has been no failure. In every instance legs crossed, palm leaves waving above the students have advanced more rapidly his head, the cool sweet grass under his in their studies and have maintained a feet—and learn—and learn—and learn ! better health average than children What a contract to the close stuffy school taught in school rooms in the old discip- room, too often inadequately ventilated, linary way. where not a whisper, or unnecesory Every healthy normal child is the em- sound is permitted and where acquiring bodiment of vigor and energy and just knowledge is real labor, not enjoyable like the steam boiler, must be provided work as it should be. with a safety valve for the escape of sur- In Honolulu, shelter lanais are used plus steam so must the child be given the for study and class recitations on rainy opportunity to expend his or her energy days and the children are protected from in order to properly develop, mentally possible exposure. The open-air school and physically. is located at Waikiki beach and the chil- Under the old methods, children, from dren enjoy sea bathing along with their the primaries up, alre under constant daily routine. Fencing is another feature supervision of an instructor, who, to obey of the outdoor school and the youthful
379 380 THE MID-PACIFIC
Where work is play. THE MID- PACIFIC 381 bodies are made strong and graceful and tions they themselves would revolt the mind alert by these lessons. against. School gardening, a part of the curri- The natural artistic background, coco- culum of the open-air school is one of nut palms, monkey pod trees, scarlet pon- the features upon which noted educators cianas, hibiscus hedges and emerald lawns are relying for the development of chil- form an ideal place to learn as well as dren's characters. Everywhere statistics play. Mainland children are not so for- show that when children spend the great- tunate as the little Honolulans, for a er part of their day in the sunshine or number of the open-air schools- in Chi- out of doors, better physical and mental cago are conducted on the roofs of build- conditions are the results. ings with light shelters arranged to pro- Here in this ideal climate where men tect them from the north wind in mid- and women live on lanais as much as possible and where there are no elements winer, and they have only miles of roofs to interfere with constant instruction out- to gaze upon instead of green and shrub- of-doors, it appears unjust that they covered hills, summer sea and constant should force upon their children condi- summer weather.
6-M. P. 382 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE MID-PACIFIC 383
tvuv OVA • kt1,11 1 11 11 II I III I II
Hawaii II I I I I III A Poem 11 1 I 111 11 111 II 1
By I I I CHARLES DANA WRIGHT II 1111 11
•
Where the palm tree bends so gently to the soothing • southern breeze, Where the coral sands bid welcome to the lapping of the seas, Lies an isle of richest verdure where the burdened • soul of man Can free his heart from sorrow and acquire a hue of • • tan. • • You may sing of ballroom pleasures, of the joy of making gold, There are tales of mighty conquests and of battles can be told, But Oh, the joy of living with health and love at hand, • In that lotus-eating, always dreaming, patch of em- erald land.
• grirrTrViri- :Da —vat VIA1 • •
384 THE MID-PACIFIC
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
On Kauai and others of the Hawaiian Islands there are underground rivers that are sometimes tapped by boring a tunnel into the base of a mountain range. Measuring the flow of the stream.
The Garden Island
By W. F. MARTIN and C. H. PIERCE.
AUAI is the smallest of the four which is somewhat less than one-half large islands, and lies at the that of Rhode Island. Its shore line is K northwest end of the main group. fairly regular, and there are not many It is separated from Oahu on bays or capes. Hanalei on the north the southeast by the Kaieie Waho Chan- and Nawiliwili on the southeast are the nel, the width of which is 63 sea miles, two principal bays. The water is deep and its nearest landing, Nawiliwili, is 98 near the shore, and there are few coral sea miles from Honolulu. reefs. It is probable, however, that the On the map Kauai appears approxi- coastal plain, which extends around a mately circular in outline, but its great- large part of the island, is the result of est length east and west—that is, from wash from the highlands which has been Mana to Anahola—is about 32 miles, deposited between the old shore line and while its width, north and south, from coral reefs that may have existed origin- Hanalei to Hanapepe, is only about 22 ally. Mana Flat on the west, which is miles. Its area is 547 square miles, two or three miles wide and stretches
385 386 THE MID-PACIFIC
westward about ten miles from Wai- however, there are several short streams mea, appears to be due to wash which which issue from the deep, narrow can- has been deposited on uplifted coral yons that lie among the cliffs of the beds. region. The highest part of Kauai consists of The southern basin comprises about the mountain mass called Waialeale, one-third of the island and includes all which occupies the central part of the the streams west and south of the main island. Waialeale Peak is 5,080 feet divide. The northern part of the area above sea level. Kawaikini Peak, about is comparatively flat and is of a swampy one mile farther south, is 90 feet higher. nature. There are numerous streams, From the region of these peaks the slope all of which rise on the western slope is rapid in every direction, being more of the divide at or near the crest and precipitous, however, toward the east. flow westward or southward. Most of Three important ridges, or divides, them have cut deep channels, some of branch off from Waialeale and thus de- which are veritable canyons, which ex- termine the course of the streams. One tend far back from the sea and are sep- of these ridges extends toward the arated by narrow ridges. The Waimea northeast through peaks back of Kealia Canyon is especially noteworthy. It is and along the crest of the Anahola about 10 miles long, a mile or more Mountains to the sea. The other two wide, and 2,000 to 3,000 feet deep. Its constitute the main divide or backbone coloring and sculpturing are exquisite, of the island, which, starting at the and remind one of the Grand Canyon southeast, follows along the Haupu of the Colorado. Practically all the run- Ridge east of Koloa across the Koloa- off from this basin reaches the sea Lihue Gap and then northward along through Waimea, Makaweli (Olokele), the ridge east of Hanapepe basin to the and Hanapepe Rivers. The eastern basin summit, where it turns slightly to the includes all streams east of the main northwest along the western edge of the divide and south of the Waialeale-Ana- Wainiha basin to the sea. Another im- hola divide. The greater part of this portant divide leaves the main one at area is more or less open and compara- Kilohana north of Alakai Swamp, and tively flat, having been leveled by erosive follows westward along the Kaunuohua agencies for a considerable distance back Ridge, and then southward along the from the sea. The general slope is com- western edge of Waimea Canyon to the paratively light except near the crest of sea. These watersheds mark out four the divide, where it is very steep. The distinct drainage areas or basins. east side of Waialeale is almost vertical The western area includes Napali for a depth of 2,000 to 3,000 feet. The (the precipices) on the northwest, and general slope has been somewhat modi- that part of the island west of Waimea fied by Kalepa Ridge on the east, 6000 Canyon. It consists for the most part to 700 feet high and five miles long, of open rolling country sloping to the through which Wailua River has cut its west from Waimea Canyon, and inter- channel ; and by Kilohana Crater west sected by numerous gulches which are of Lihue, a tufa cone 1,134 feet in height practically dry except for a few hours which was thrown up after the general after storms. Along the northwest coast, drainage lines had been formed. The THE MID-PACIFIC 387
A peaceful irrigating ditch.
run-off from this basin reaches the sea the oldest of the larger islands, and con- chiefly thorugh the following streams : sists of one central mountain mass, dif- Huleia, Kapaia, North and South Wai- fering in this respect from Oahu, Maui, lua, Kapaa, and Anahola. and Hawaii, each of which consists of The northern basin is somewhat tri- two or more distinct mountain masses angular in shape and includes all streams formed at different times. Because of going to sea .between Anahola on the its greater age its various natural feat- east and Napali on the west. This basin ures are better differentiated. is characterized by several long, narrow Erosion has wrought greater changes ridges radiating northward from Waia- on Kauai than on the other islands. The leale and separating deep gulches that valleys are longer, deeper, and broader. carry good-sized streams. The eastern Permanent streams flow out to sea in part of the basin is comparatively open every direction except on the western and has only small streams. The west- side, which is deprived of streams largely ern part is exceedingly well favored by because of the deep Waimea Canyon. large streams. The run-off from this This canyon occupies a position at right basin reaches the sea chiefly through the angles to the general slope and inter- Wainiha, Lumahai, Waioli, Hanalei, Ka- cepts the flow toward the west. The lihiwai, Kilauea, and Moloaa streams. streams are not only of good size, but As compared with the other islands, are more uniform in flow and flatter in Kauai is unique in several ways. It is grade than the streams on the other isl- 388 THE MID-PACIFIC
Sometimes the artificial rivers tunnel mountains.
ands, though there are some waterfalls. where the rainfall probably exceeds 400 The rainfall varies greatly in different inches a year. localities according to exposure to trade Every important stream on Kauai is winds and mountain masses and to ele- drawn upon to a greater or less extent vation above the sea, but the range is for irrigation. The chief demand is for irrigation of cane, and the larger ditches not so great and irregular as on the are for that purpose. The cane belt ex- other islands. The average annual rain- tends from Mana on the west to Kilauea fall near sea level ranges from 15 to 20 on the north, and all the streams within inches at Mana to 63 inches at Koloa, that area furnish water for cane. Rice on the leeward side, and from 45 inches is grown on the low-lands and in all the at Lihue to 100 inches at Hanalei, on valleys. Some taro is also grown in the the windward side. The increase is valleys. Both rice and taro require large rapid with increase in elevation, so that quantities of water and are grown only at 1,000 to 2,000 feet the rain fall ranges on the lowlands where water is easily from 100 to 200 inches annually on the obtained. Pineapples are also grown on windward slopes. The fragmentary rec- Kauai and cotton is being tried, but these ords available indicate that the increase crops are not irrigated. continues to the summit of Waialeale, Kauai is called the "garden island," THE MID-PACIFIC 389 probably on account of its flora, which is forest cover. Private parties are also co- said to be more diverse and better de- operating in preserving the forest and in veloped than the flora on any of the other reforestation. islands. The line of dense vegetation no The population of Kauai by the census longer reaches down to the sea as it of 1910 was 23,952. Of these about one- probably did originally, but has receded half consists of Japanese, Chinese and a considerable distance from the shore. Portuguese. A large number of the Chi- At the present time the dense vegetation nese are engaged in the rice industry, is largely confined to the higher eleva- which they principally control. The peo- tions, and even there it is being opened ple live in small towns or villages, the up somewhat through the depredations largest of which are Waimea and Lihue. of wild pigs and a few wild cattle. Most Lihue is the county seat and nearest of the forested area is now included in landing from Honolulu. Other places of forest reserves, and efforts are being importance are Kekaha, Makaweli, Ha- made to prevent further injury to the ex- napepe, Eleele; Koloa, Kealia, Kilauea, isting forests and encourage reforesta- and Hanalei. Kauai has no good harbor tion. The Territorial Government is at the present time, but will have one in much interested in preserving the forests the near future. It has excellent roads because a large part of Kauai is still in which extend almost completely around public ownership, and so also is much of the island and greatly facilitate overland the water which is closely related to the travel. 390
• • • • •
•
, ' • g . , . . ' ._,,,
II THE MID-PACIFIC . . • a ',.. 41111 1r ' ;•: . . -4, -z ..."...- , - , - . • ...... ,v- •4.4--V • , ...•-• *4".4,I.. _ 4- ., ',- r 4.4-- , . . , • ‘44it 7"-t•- ., ,„„ - • .„...., . -10 • -.• - , '7•• -.1- - •- ,, • ,, , "
''-- ,,.,; - 4. 4, >-5 . - . • .44,../.• - .„, ,,.7„.A._ . .,„.:T„.: ) . , •° I ...---0 .- r .-0061r:-- m ;::"." :- _ '—,, ,,, ,„...."' :, 74.t.'i-. • ''''"- - , IT-4;:l. , ,7E'' .' ''."'-'4 *-" . ,,, --``'.^ ,•; Ca''14,;"2' IP.,- ". ,, _ . 1.1-A,:t7" - C.,:•".. ;74-.*-- : , '' •-t',:•.,„ , :„ • ,, .---7 , ./ ' . -14; „ "'L ' •• 7-'7 ''.. .- . _ , •,.- ....',::4;,6•40..' : ''' - ' -. Titt' ' _ f,r74.4°7. -% ,, '. '1.-'''' - - -.. `-' - • ....-- 4 "••• • -- 4, ,•• - •
, . The cherry trees are grown iin Japan for their blossoms; the fruit is never seen. Cherry Season.
Imperial Cherry Blossoms
By J. M. GAZINE.
WICE each year their Imperial taking special holidays to see the blos- Majesties, the Emperor and soms in season ; and the custom of the T Empress of Japan, give a gar- Imperial House is only in due accord den party, the one in the spring with this typically Japanese idea of ad- being known as the Imperial Cherry miring beauty. The Imperial Cherry Blossom Party, while the one given in Blossom Party takes place in April ; and the autumn is called the Imperial Chry- is held at the detached palace at Hama, santhemum Party. The Japanese have a wonderfully beautiful park overlooking been long noted for their love of hanami Shinagawa bay. In ancient times this or flower-seeing, thousands of the people district was but a stretch of sand and
391 392 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Height of the Cherry Blossom Season. marsh overrun with weeds and grass ; tive landscape gardening that can only hence the name, hama, or beach, a place be called exquisite. Here and there are much frequented in the Tokugawa days various stately pine trees, and groves of by hawking parties. In time the Shogun cherry that in the spring time present an reclaimed the land and turned it into a unexampled scene of filmy bloom, scent- ing the aid with that heavenly aroma park where he built a summer palace, peculiar to the Japanese cherry blossom. known as the Hama Goten. The palace In the center is a large pond, bordered is now used chiefly for the accommoda- by beautiful flowering shrubs, with tiny tion of prominent foreigners who may be rivulets and streams running here and from time to time guest of the nation, there, spanned by fairy-like bridges. To various foreign princes having in recent sit by this pond, in one of the summer times stayed there. houses, and behold the clouds of bloom One can not imagine a more ideal spot reflected in the calm surface, is to re- for a flower-seeing party than on the ceive an impression never to be forgot- grounds of the Hama palace. The grounds ten. Over the little wooden bridges are are laid out in genuine Japanese style, trellises of wistaria, to pass through with an adherence to the aesthetics of na- which gives one the feeling of going THE MID-PACIFIC 393
Cherry Blossoms in Ueno Park, Tokyo. from one beautiful world to another. invitations to the Imperial Garden Party Towards the southeast corner of the consider themselves particularly favored. garden is a miniature Fujiyama from the As it is one of the only two occasions on top of which the visitor may have a mag- which His Majesty meets his subjects so- nificent view of Tokyo Bay, with its cially during the year, the honor of an countless fishing boats whose white sails invitation is much coveted among the dot the horizon, while away to the left Japanese. rise through blue-penciled haze the hills Before receiving an invitation the in- of Aawa and Kazausa. quiry comes as to the number of mem- Only people of some importance re- bers in one's family over fifteen years ceive invitations to the Imperial Garden old, no children being allowed invita- Party. Among citizens of Japan the tions. Then soon' afterwards arrives a honor is accorded to all members of the huge envelope bearing the Imperial crest. nobility, naval and military officers, and The Imperial invitation is on a card of subjects holding decorations from the heavy beveled gilt-edge board, cream State, and foreigners recommended by color and about six inches by nine. With their legations or holding decorations the card are smaller pink slips, one for from the Japanese Government, also are each guest accompanying the person in- honored in the same manner. It is said vited, and on these are printed instruc- that all foreigners in the service of the tions as to dress, etc. The regulation Imperial Government receive invitations, dress for gentlemen is frock coat and silk but this does not prove to be the case. hat, and for ladies visiting dress. The Naturally there are crowds of tourists in guests are asked to be on hand at two Tokyo in the cherry blossom season, and o'clock in the afternoon. They assemble those of them fortunate enough to secure inside the gate of the palace, and chat .394 THE MID-PACIFIC
Private Residences, Kyoto.
until their Majesties arrive. The strains in Parisian style. The Imperial party of the Kimi-ga-yo, or Japanese National having passed, all the guests now fall Anthem, from the Imperial Band, give into line and follow the procession in a the signal to expect the entrance of the delightful walk under the blooming Imperial party. Immediately all the two cherry trees. The scene now grows pic- thousand or more guests arrange them- turesque in the extreme. The long pro- selves on either side of the gravelled cession winds in and out among the walk. beautiful groves of bloom, and then along As the Imperial procession comes in the border of the lake, in the smooth face sight a hush of reverence falls upon the of which is mirrorred a moving picture multitude. Then appears his Majesty of exquisite color and real life. Passing with an Imperial chamberlain preceding over one of the wistaria trellised bridges him. The Emperor is clad in the uni- one comes to an open lawn of grass on form of a generalissimo of the Army, one side of which is erected a long mar- and carries at his side the famous golden quee decorated in the national colors. At sword. As his Majesty passes, every one end of this is a dais for their Majes- guest makes a bow and remains with in- ties, from which extend long tables clined head until the Imperial party has weighted with every conceivable delicacy passed. Immediately behind the Emper- that can appeal to the appetite, with hun- or follows the Empress and her suite of dreds of small tables along the grass for Court ladies, and in succession the Im- the guests. As soon as the Emperor and perial princes and their consorts, pre- Empress are seated, the ambassadors of senting a brilliant retinue. The princes the various powers go up and present are in military uniform and the ladies all their respects to their Majesties. An THE MID-PACIFIC 395
A Forest Road in Japan.
interpreter, who appears to be blessed the members of the Corps Diplomatique with a gift of tongues, conveys the mes- and the invited guests. sage of the various nations to the Em- As soon as the feast is over the Em- peror, who acknowledges each with an peror and the Empress rise and prepare appropriate word or phrase. As soon as to take their departure. This is signi- the audience with foreign diplomats is fied by the playing of the national anthem, finished, his Majesty drinks the first on hearing the strains of which every glass, which is the signal for the feast guest at once stands and comes into line to begin. to allow the Imperial party to pass thru. Sometimes the weather is such that All bid farewell with bowed heads, the their Majesties do not venture out, and illustrious hosts at last disappearing then, of course, there is universal disap- among the arches of the cherry blossoms. pointment. If it should prove wet, the But the guests linger on and enjoy the garden party is not held or is postponed. magnificence of the view. But one year on the day of the Cherry It is difficult to say whether one pre- Blossom Party there was such a terrific fers the cherry blossom party to the sand storm that it was thought unad- chrysanthemum party given each au- visable for the Emperor to expose his tumn at the Akasaka Palace grounds. person to the contaminated air, an em- The whole scene is so different one can- ergency that could not be foreseen. But not well draw a comparison. The park the princes and most of the nobility and at Akasaka has a beauty peculiarly its their families were present, as well as own. There is the same exquisite aes-
■ 396 THE MID-PACIFIC thetic effect in the Japanese landscape at Hama there is a tranquilty and peace gardening; but Akasaka is inland on a as though the crowd was happy under plateau, while Hama is of the sea and the spell of some magic environment, under the cherry blossoms. At the chry- the spirit of which became for the mo- santhemum party one sees floral por- ment one's own. N- wonder the Jap- ductions that are really marvelous, plants anese regard the cherry blossom as typ- with hundreds of blossoms, truly won- ical of the Japanese spirit, alive with derful creations of horticultural art. Yet beauty and fair to see, but ready at any on the whole in the cherry-blossom scene moment to die whenever duty calls and at Hama there is a tranquility and peace the time comes. It was for this reason seems fuller of immortal suggestion than that the poet Motoori wrote : "If any the more artificial Akasaka. At Aka- one seeks the heart of Japan, he will find saka the multitude appears filled with it in the blossom of the mountain cherry curiosity as to the flowers, simply ad- exhaling its fragrance in the morning miring them as unique productions. But sun."
A family of middleclass Japanese picnicking under the cherry blossoms. ADVERTISING SECTION 2 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Home Offices in Honolulu of Alexander & Baldwin.
THE MID-PACIFIC 3
v. rovile..: gm 1.■ LI .0
4 IN• • . . .
•..2„.... . .
r_J.. , :_...... ,...... , .,,,, ..__ ... • , .,,-.,.,,, . THE MID-PACIFIC .!:•e"A.:1, — tl C‘ ". ,....,,. ., — • ..:::.''''..,':,7. :- •': . '",ii — k- r .,O7 Vig --.,-.. A--• 4- 11-*f. . . 5- : :;''s '--`-' 04i':, ,,.„ :1:N...,; . _ - wi., '''4, ,..,, r• . , . .4i hIcr- . X' •• .- h: 0 h• r ..,.. ►• h. ,. 't ' ': 7. *ft .. '..r, : It .?4.. . , -- reel.:-...-4.!!:'- - '-'r '.. . .. ..‘' . ,1• !, i. \''.1,.4A", *..,:: ?,-,. . .,".-,..,. ., . -': ,..- - - , ' ''. ,"4.' 17, . - t41...11g-14 4': • ,.."I' ! r
'.•• ' t. ' t • • ;, ••. -# . :. • Nonwde '.. i• • . - - --• ''• --'' . ' ?i'--, ••i. • ' i.c, -- ,.„,,•, -- • • - .. ,,, . - . • . _ „,,.—.. .1. '•' v .: , , .„ .• ••Ii. , .!,,,:* - ,,,) •:.:: , 4.4t- . ..,, . .,,, • :.,,: , ,- . ...iv ....,,,, , . _ _ • - — .. H:oi' - . ..,.. , i 3,. :II' OliR' r '':;01,,..,. .4re ',.. **,,, ,eeek ., :.,.. '1 ' . •-.. "' e, , ' le 4,,e. , - 4ke•'.. ' - • , —,I, _,, . .40t IT:;•• 4..v,ele,A3' • .4"'•- I ---- . -q • i; ...„, sky, 4-,k - ' ' 1;■• ' l.k . • ,,'''‘: - .'''' u • •••47...74, , 4."."14'••
r• nit: P'it it GUA -• , -, NOIt FLP,11LIZEIt_WORICS .. .. ...wed It NI itil, HONOLULU, T. H. 1._ '..iall&Jtillk ii l 4"'', ''
The Home of the Pacific Guano andFer tilizer Company. It has its works on King Street, Honolulu.
• THE MID-PACIFIC 5
The Honolulu Gas Company maintains at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets spacious exhi- bition rooms and a parlor where everyone is welcome.
Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Regal Shoe Store has moved into its new home at the c:rner of Fort & Hotel.
Drop us a postal for FREE SAMPLES of PINEAPPLE SILK, the beautiful sheer fabric so popular for dainty Summer dresses and evening gowns. In all plain shades and many pretty stripes; 27 to 36 inches wide, 50c to $1.00 per yard. B. F. EHLERS & CO., Honolulu, Hawaii. THE.MID-PACIFIC 7
• ao.. 200'0 • . . • •
The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents Pacific Mail S. S .Co., The American-Hawaiian and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.
The Beautiful and Spacious Rotunda of the Hackfeld Building. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., Ltd. This Company Stores its Fertilizer in Honolulu in the Largest Concrete Building West of the Rockies.
CONSr •
CRAIING COMPOI ce•vinA4 I coN
Peerless Preserving Paint Co., Ltd., and the Honolulu Construction & Draying Co. have their offices at 65 Queen Street. A postal or telephone call (2281) will be re- sponded to by a foreman, who will give full particulars and a careful estimate. THE MID-PACIFIC 9
E. 0. Hall & Son, Cor. Fort and King Streets.
• Alexander Young Hotel.
"The Blaisdell" is the newest and most up-,to- date Hotel in Honolulu. It is run on the Euro- pean plan, being situ- ated in the heart of the city, (Fort Street and Chaplain Lane). It is near all the downtown Clubs, Cafes, and Res- taurants. The rates are moderate—running wa- ter in every room. Pub- lic baths as well as the private, have hot and cold water. Telephones in all the rooms, ele- vator and pleasant lanais. Mrs. C. A. Blaisdell is the proprietress, as well as of The Majestic, which is a first-class rooming house, corner Beretania and Fort Sts. The Blaisdell.
10 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE YOKOHAMA SPECIE BANK, HONOLULU.
THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF HONOLULU.
The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its premises on the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets since the year 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the Islands, and the institu- tion has ever since been closely identified with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon and Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cockburn. On June 30, 1913, the deposits with this bank amounted to $6,493,462 . 87. BANK OF HONOLULU, LTD., located in Fort street, is an old established financial institution. It draws exchange on the prin- cipal parts of the world, issues cable The Entrance to the Bank of Hawaii. transfers, and transacts a general bank- ing business. THE MID-PACIFIC 11
If you contemplate building a home, see the architect and then the Hustace- Peck Co. for your draying and crushed rock material. Draying in FIonolulu is an important business, and Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., are the pioneers in this line, and keep drays of every size, sort and de- scription for the use of those who re- quire them. They also conduct a rock crusher, and supply crushed rock. Their office is at 63 Queen sti eet, and the 'phone number is 2295.
Fort is the leading business street of Honolulu, and above is pictured the in- terior of one of its leading stores, that of H. F. Wichman & Co., Jewelers. Seemingly the big store of H. F. Wichman & Co., Ltd., occupies more than half the block on Fort street be- tween King and Hotel streets. Wich- man's is one of the show places of the city. Here you may profitably spend a day over the great cases of silverware. If you have jewels which need setting, are interested in diamonds, or are look- ing for a weeding present, you will visit Wichman's. The very fashionable shops ire in the Alexander Young Building, and the largest of these is that of the Ha- waiian News Co. Here the ultra fashionable stationery of the latest design is kept in stock. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as well as printers' and binders' supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos an dthe Angelus piano player. Eith- er the resident or the tourist Silva's Toggery, on King Street, exhibits the finest dis- will find the Hawaiian play of Men's and Boys' Clothing to be seen in Hawaii. News Co. stores of interest. Everything to equip the polite man is kept in stock. The phone is 224. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC
Sabin, P. Maurice McMahon, H. M. Ayres, C. D. Wright, Sanford B. Dole, Dr. E. V. Wilcox, C. F. Merrill and Jack Densham. There are also extracts dealing with local subjects from the works of Charles Warren Stoddard, Rollin M. Daggett, Robert Louis Stevenson and Mark Twain. Three editions, De Luxe, limited to 100 copies, bound in Limp Art leather, silk lined, deckle edge paper, illustrated with photographs. A dainty gift edition, $5.00. Tapa bound in Hawaiian tapa, boards, a souvenir edition, $1.50. Paper bound, in rough cover paper, a pocket edition, $1. For sale at all book stores, or address Charles D. Wright, P. 0. Box 455, Honolulu, T. H. The HAWAIIAN EXPRESS CO., phone phone 2464 makes a specialty of country hauling, although every kind of expres- "Bits of Verse From Hawaii" is the sage is attended to with dispatch. The title of a beautiful little volume that home of the Company is the big red front has recently come from the press, and building at the corner of Queen and Nuu- it is everything that its name implies. anu streets. This company is under a These "bits of verse" have been culled reliable management and it can give as by C. D. Wright from the many sources reference the leading business men of the visitors and kamaainas use to express city and the banks. their love for Hawaii, and are right from the heart, and were written with never The OAHU ICE and ELECTRIC CO. sup- plies the Army in Honolulu at a cheaper a thought that they would find their way into a compilation that would help to im- rate than the United States Government mortalize the most beautiful spot on can buy ice in Alaska. The works and earth—Hawaii : beloved by all its resi- cold storage rooms are in the Kakaako dents and by all who visit and pass on. district, but a phone message to 1218 will The poems have been culled by Mr. answer every purpose as the company Wright from the files of the local papers has its auto delivery trucks. for the past fifteen or twenty years, a ma- The Kwong Yuen Hing Co., at 36-38 jority of them having been originally King St., between Nuuanu and Smith published in the Advertiser. Those who Sts., are the largest importers and whole- glance through the collection will be sur- sale dealers in Chinese Mattings, Fine prised at the almost universal high qual- Teas and General Merchandise. ity of the verse, which includes much People on Oahu can telephone 1484, written by amateurs, as well as recog- and those away will have their needs nized gems from Robert Louis Stevenson prompetly attended to by writing to and other geniuses who have visited Ha- KWONG YUEN HING Co., P. 0. Box 992, waii or made their homes here. Honolulu, Hawaii. The verses are from the pens of a The kERSHNER VULCANIZING WORKS number of local writers, including Mary are on Alakea St., near the Royal Ha- Dillingham Frear, Anna M. Paris, Em- waiian Hotel, and here tires that are old ma L. Dillingham, Anne M. Prescott, and worn are made good as new. If you Eleanor Rivenburgh, Anna C. Dole, are in trouble with your tires or auto, Leola Harvey-Elder, Annie M. Felker, phone 2434, or send your tires down. Tom McGiffen, E. S. Goodhue, W. F. Tires and inner tubes are always in stock. THE MID-PACIFIC 13 Honolulu Trust Companies The Trent Trust Co., incorporated in with offices in the Bank of Hawaii Build- 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, ing. the Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., a now has $100,000 in fully-paid cash $200,000 incorporation, with $100,000 capital and an earned surplus account of issued and paid, occupies the spacious $20,000. Its assets have grown until quarters at the corner of Fort and they stand now at $270,000 gross ; and Merchant streets. Here the wireless the policy of the Company in conserving system for Hawaii was born, and housed the financial and property interests of its until very recently. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insurance de- clients has proven so satisfactory to its partment, real estate feature, and every patrons that its list of customers shows department common to the up-to-date steady growth from year to year ; and trust company. The managers were for three different times has it been found years associated with Henry Water- necessary to enlarge its quarters in order house, before the firm that had stood for to handle its increasing business. The half a century was incorporated as a Trent Trust Co. makes a specialty of trust company. The telephone number handling estates, collecting incomes, and is 1208. investing surplus or idle funds. In this THE FIRST TRUST Co. of Hilo, Ltd., branch of its business it has clients in is one of the rapidly growing institutions many parts of the world, including the of the Crescent City. Situated in the British Isles, Europe, China, Japan, and bank building it is in the heart of the the American mainland from Boston to business center and every year its busi- San Francisco and up into Canada. The ness shows a substantial increase. C. C. Company also does a large real estate Kennedy is President and H. B. Mari- and general insurance business, repre- ner, Treasurer and Manager. senting in the Islands the Mutual Life Insurance Co. of New York, and some strong fire companies. Its membership in the Honolulu Stock and Bond Ex- change enables it to buy and sell securi- ties on the best favorable terms. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com- munity. The Company was incorporated HAWAII & SOUTH SEAS CURIO CO., in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 Alexander Young Building. Hawaiian fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated Handicraft, Oriental Fabrics, Silks, doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, Drawn Work, Grass Linens, Fans, the Capital of the Company was $200,- Basketry, Hats, Souvenir Jewelry, Post- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided cards, etc. The Largest Pacific-Souvenir Profits $22,573..7. It conducts a trust House in the World. Stands at Moana, company business in al lits various lines Alexander Young and Royal Hawaiian 14 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Puunene Store, at Kahului, and the Kahului Store conducted by the Hawaiian Com- mercial & Sugar Co., are the most complete on the Island of Maui.
The Maui Stables in Wailuku maintain outfit himself here, while the woman an auto, rig, and horseback service to does her shopping for the home with this every available part of the Island of oldest and best of department stores on Maui. If you contemplate a trip to the big island. It is interesting to the Haleakala, around the Island of Maui, or tourist also to visit this typical emporium a stay on that island, communicate with of the Island of Hawaii. the Maui Stables, or call for the infor- THE HILO MERCANTILE CO., LTD., is mation at the office of Wells-Fargo & also a concern that helps Hilo grow. It Co., in Honolulu. is connected with its own planing mill, so that you may order your house, from E. N. HOLMES, on Waianuenue street, lumber to furnishings, including plumb- is the pioneer merchant and has the big ing and hardware from the big store of department store in Hilo. The man the Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd., on Front who intends to locate in Hilo and ex- street, which is filled with every kind of pand with the city will necessarily con- general merchandise, and is well worth sult with E. N. Holmes of the big de- a visit, whether you are tourist or resi- partment store. If he is a man he will dent.
A View of Kaimuki from Wilhelmina Rise. THE MID-PACIFIC 15
One of the oldest and most reliable in hermetically-sealed tins for use in the business houses of Honolulu is that of tropics at no extra charge. Allen & Robinson on Queen street, People don't usually die in Honolulu, phone 2105. This firm for generations but when they do they phone in ad- has supplied the people of Honolulu vance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 and those on the other islands with Fort street, phone number 1408, and their building materials and paints. he arranges the after details. If you Their office is on Queen street, near the are a tourist and wish to be interred Inter-Island S. S. Building, and their in your own plot on the mainland, lumber yards extend right back to the Williams will embalm you ; or he will harbor front, where every kind of hard arrange all details for interment in and soft wood grown on the coast is Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise landed by the schooners that ply to of the Pacific for any other, but if you Puget Sound. must, let your friends talk it over with Music is not neglected in Hawaii. Williams. Ernest Kaai has his Hawaiian Conserva- tory in the Alexander Young building, and here he teaches the use of the native ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that provides all of the Social Music for Honolulu. In Hawaii people dance to vocal as well as to instrumental music and all of Kaai's musicians arc excellent singers, who sing in both English and in Hawaiian. From Kaai's Glee Club the youth of Hawaii learn the songs of the people. Ernest Kaai can supply a quartette for a small dance or as many as fifty musicians for a big public affair. It is worth while visiting the studio and studying the native Hawaiian musi- cal instruments. The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort street, are the largest The Pacific Private Sanatorium, phone in the Territory and well worth a visit 1153 or address Miss Jessie Rae, Ke- at lunch time. Aerated waters cost but walo street, Honolulu, for terms. little in Hawaii, from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Consolidated is agent In building your house, and after, you will need the expressman. The easiest foi Hires Root Beer and puts up a Kola way is to phone orders to 1281. This is Mint aerated water that is delicious, be- the City Transfer Co., Jas .H. Love, sides a score of other flavors. Phone manager, King St., near Fort. 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any store. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak headquarters, Fort Street, develops and prints for tourists within a few hours. All photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- graps, etc., always in stock. Develop- ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a dozen ; roll films, 60 cents a dozen ; printing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed 16 THE MID-PACIFIC
Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the largest manufacturers of shoes in the chief port and from Hilo excusions are mainland, among them being Hanan & made up to all the points of interest. The Son, the M. A. Packard Company, and Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken Laird Schober & Company. Children's up the matter of home promotion work shoes and bare-foot sandals are made a and is developing the wonderful scenic specialty of and are carried in a great surroundings of Hilo. Trails are being variety. Visitors will receive courteous cut to the beauty spots, and roads put in attention. order. It was the Hilo Board of Trade Rising from a common gardener of that called the first civic convention 43 years ago, Mr. Y. Ahin is now the which is now bringing all the Hawaiian possessor of many lands and a fine family Islands together to work for each other. of children all born in these Islands. At The Hilo Board of Trade is taking the the age of sixty years he supervises his lead in Home promotion work in these vast estate, and is hale and hearty with islands. In this line of work the Hilo a proud father in China at the ripe old Board of Trade has the hearty co-opera- age of ninety-four years ; over $2000.00 tion of the Hilo Railway. This Railway a month is his monthly rental collec- has recently extended its rails thirty- two tions for improved property. miles along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe and beyond. This thirty- Honolulu and Hawaii are fortunate in two mile rail trip is one of the scenic having a plumbing establishment such as trips of the world. The Hilo Railway the one of E. W. Quinn, who has erected also extends in the opposite direction to in Honolulu what is probably the most the hot springs of Puna, and a branch complete and up-to-date plumbing estab- with the Auto Service takes the tourist lishment this side of the Rockies. So it from the steamer wharf to the edge of is that the great and small buildings of the ever active Kilauea. On the line of Honolulu and Hawaii are enabled to put the Hilo Railway are scores of steel in the most sanitary and up-to-date bridges, some built almost in the form of plumbing at a minimum cost. There is a horse-shoe. Many of these bridges no job too large or too small in the terri- were designed and constructed by the tory for this perfectly equipped estab- Pacific Engineering Co. of Honolulu, lishment to handle. which company also supervised the con- Centrally located, in Honolulu's com- struction of the steel bridges along the modious shopping district, is the Manu- line of the Kahului Railway on the Isl- and of Maui, as well as constructing the facturer's Shoe Co., Ltd. Here the most Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu. fastidious shoppers are drawn by the al- luring display of footwear shown in the artistic windows. Satisfaction is one of the assurances with which a purchase is made, whether it be a pair of laces, or a pair of dainty evening slippers so neces- sary to the happiness of the well dressed woman of today. A general line of shoes from heavy boots suitable for out of doors, to dame fashion's latest dictation for the ballroom, is carried for the hosts of friends and patrons of the firm. Sel- dom does this attractive store front escape Located on Fort Street, just a few the eye of the visitor to Honolulu. Once doors from King is the Mclnerny Shoe Store. All kinds of shoes at all prices inside one finds a courteous force of sales- for all people. This metropolitan estab- men ever on the alert to minister to the lishment represents in the Territory the wants of particular people. THE MID-PACIFIC 17
THE DONNA is an exclusive family Ever since his arrival in the Hawaiian hotel composed of several cottages, be- Islands thirty-seven years ago, Mr. Goo tween Keeaumoku and Piikoi streets. The Kim Fook has been held in high esti- appointments at this hotel are perfect and mation by his associates and the gen- the home cooking makes it a residence of eral public, until today he stands as a permanent guests, although many tourists leader among the Chinese and as part are accommodated in the season. owner and manager of the Kong Sang THE SEASIDE HOTEL, as its name im- Yuen Co., dry goods store, at 1017 Nuu- plies, is at Waikiki, where the famous anu St., between King and Hotel Sts., surf-riders come up to the beach on their and receives the trade of all nationali- boards. This hotel is the one, ideal ties. Mr. Fook is interested in all edu- tropical hotel in Honolulu, with the cational movements and has two fine thatched cottages scattered here and sons, one in school and the other one there among the royal coconut grove. associated with him in business at the The terms are moderate and the appoint- Kong Sang Yuen Co., store—a good ments all that can be desired. place to trade. VIDA VILLA, a number of cottages Unadulterated bread and pastry is an and a spacious house in a luxurious gar- essential need in every home—the Sam den of palms, which is located at 1040 Wo Co., bakery at 384 North Beretania King street, where cars pass every five St., under the management of S. Lum minutes toward the business center, or Fat, has for years supplied the homes of toward Waikiki beach. Rates per day, Honolulu with pure bread and pastry. $1.50; by the month, $35.00 up. This A steady growth of the business clearly home hotel is within walking distance demonstrates what the quality must be of "down town." Mrs. L. B. Evans is —telephone orders are promptly deliv- proprietor of this beautiful property. ered to all parts of the city. Phone 1146. A suit of clothes made by the W. W. Honolulu was the first city in the world Ahana Co., on King St., Honolulu, de- to install a house to house telephone sys- notes correct style, fit and selection from tem. The MUTUAL TELEPHONF CO. is exclusive imported fabrics of exclusive now perfecting the system on other pattern and design. Mr. Chuck Hoy is islands, having installed the automatic known to all who keep in touch with system which gives perfect satisfaction, leaders of men and his management-to- allowing a man of any nationality use gether with Mr. Wong Vun, who studied the phone. The Marconi Wireless Sys- in the famous Mitchell School of Tailor- tem has its office in the same building as ing in New York City, as a partner, that of the Mutual Telephone Co., so that make the W. W. Ahana Co. hard to ex- wireless messages can be sent or received cel as exclusive tailors. by telephone. The Hawaiian Islands were first to At the corner of Beretania and Aala use the wireless system, away back in Sts., stands the business of Lee Kau, 1899. The Federal Wireless Telegraph who is the principal owner and manager Company has made Honolulu the first of the Lee Kau Co., experts in making city in the world to receive its entire and repairing wagons and carriages of morning newspaper news from across all description—in fact Lee Kau guar- the seas by wireless. The Federal Wire- antees satisfaction—people wishing vehi- less supplies a minimum of 1500 words a cles of any description should get in night to one morning paper. It never touch with the Lee Kau Co. Telephone fails to get these messages from either 1944. Lee Kau Co. will give you the San Francisco or Japan. It is erecting lowest prices on carriage and wagon an equipment that will enable it to re- work. Mr. Lee Kau came to the Islands ceive and send messages 24 hours of the twenty years ago. day. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC
One hardly realizes the immense re- are received by every steamer. This is sources of the grocery store of Henry the bargain book store of the city. May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort The oldest established Dry Goods street, unless one spends a couple of House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situat- hours taking stock of the domestic and ed at the corner of Fort and Beretania imported eatables and drinkables there Sts. For over a quarter of a century sold. Not only the largest grocery this store has held an enviable reputa- store in the Territory, but the one enjoy- tion for high-class merchandise. The ing the finest trade, Henry May & Co. are beautiful court dresses worn at the re- ceptions and balls in the days of the rightly called "The Housekeepers' Ally" Hawaiian Monarchy were made by this —as housewives have learned to depend firm. Then, as now, Sachs' was the on everything this firm sells. They make rendezvous for ladies who desired the a specialty of fine Kona (native) Coffee very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, and have installed a gas roaster and cof- Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, Laces fee mill to make this product ready for and Millinery. the customer. Every steamer brings The business man in Hawaii outfits his Fresh California Fruit and Vegetables, office from the American-Hawaiian Paper and Supply Co. The wholesale and Puritan Creamery Butter, for cus- and retail headquarters are at the cor- tomers—many of whom have traded with ner of Fort and Queen streets. If there Henry May & Co. since the firm started, is anything from paper bags to blank many years ago. books, paper of any quality, from a pound to a ton, the American-Hawaiian In front of the Chambers Drug Store, Paper Supply Company can fill the con- at the corner of Fort and King streets, tract. the main street car lines intersect; here No home is complete in Honolulu the shoppers and business men wait for without a ukulele, a piano and a Vic their cars. Usually they count on miss- for talking machine. The Bergstrom ing a car or two while they sit and chat Music Co., with its big store on Fort street, will provide you with these—a at the open soda fountain that the Cham- Chickering, a Weber, a' Kroeger for bers Drug Company has placed before your mansion, or a tiny upright Bou- their spacious open doorway on the cor- doir for your cottage ; and if you are ner. At Chambers' drug store the be- a transient it will rent you a piano. The Bergstrom Music Co., phone 2321, wildered tourist of the day from the big hooks your theater tickets for the liners is set straight, introduced to Dole's Royal Hawaiian Opera House. bottled pineapple juice, the drink of the Kona Coffee means the real bean country, advised as to the sights of the grown in Hawaii. One firm in Hawaii, city, supplied with any perfumes, can- the McChesney Coffee Co., on Mer- dies or drugs he may need during his chant street, makes a specialty of aging stay, and made to feel at home. and perfecting the Hawaiian coffee bean. You may phone an order for a The Cross Roads Book Shop adjoins sack of this real Old Kona Coffee to be the Hawaiian News Co., and is a contin- sent to friends in the States, but it is better to call in person and learn some- uation of the great fashionable bazaar. thing of this Hawaiian product, used in In the Cross Roads Book Store the liter- the States by coffee blenders to lend ature of America, Europe and the Orient flavor to the insipid South American is kept in stock The novels of the day coffee that floods the market.
THE MID-PACIFIC 19
.,...C/) ng •-I8 . 5 5 ,.4-.__. 6 6 _>., a, 6 ,_,, 4 . ,,,_, 4 . E ,, . 0 •-•.,, , -,,,, a) i 1 1 = Tj 0 En 0 "" ;••■ r9 cd :1' = X LI) Z 0 CCS ct v 41 1) ci) „..,0 . "cd :7U E-.a, —, •"'cd cn ""at > u Z • — 03 -I-. 1_, Z u,') .nuce :, .4., •- ct — .c.) cd cd cd >. cd ••••••• 0 -,d 77, •-F43 up c'S Aa -= V' ''' • 5-, • = 11-11)5' 6 — V .5 8 u F (i) ••= E ..,Ed 5,) ° ci) d) " 5 o Fri 4 5 so' — • :I.,-' 4 . ‘L: i u ) >0s .. "<7 " .6 . , a..._9, .2.4-- wt. _74c1 cdup 1-4 '-'-' .001.>2•jt•-1-4 4<5> ;gd ci) to " 0 d.) ''" bp. ••■ • - " "a' O "0 ••-• .0 •"" -' = -,-' -4-, ..* -ct 6 — 0 IcCi .4 `1' z :-Ei ›, a) cz.,= ni; —,„.. a) ,5 (..) -a ■.1) 6_9 pq 0 cd kij Z • ." '4,4 u'l? u, -i•-• .--• ° z C.) t".:- I-, cd v) •.0, 0.••• 1_, 0 p• — • •-• i- "0 cv ct z X a.) , 03 ,Zi • •-, 0 )' L) cd —, 4..,) z cd .• 7,1 a 0 1••-■ ".F., 0 ., 0 d) cz, "0 > -2 c) ,..0 cn u) ••0 •E! ■0 cd 0 (-) Ci, •--Y (...) .... d.) 0 ,.0 0 E.E; u) >, 4 (A = •Ed "" 0 0 cUci, 0 $-,0 CO •'-' 0 -I-, ,f) '''' ol 0..) .j....1 C.) >.., ."±".: O.) \ s ° . 7d. ›.% • ,-. I) ›, ••° C.) `'' C.) ts) ...., 0 Ct hi)... cU -,.., •—•1.) 4.) = C.) pq C.)0 1._1 .-,-, _ = <,.; 1-, ct "..,.. 0 — y.., --. ct cn 1-' r:i Z Tti rC-). g .0 -1-■ t) 7-I .--1 "C) .4_, el-) al ct cn 4-. , ,.„ . ci ,.., (4), 4, 0 0,., .5 ..n cn > 0 ...'i -5 8 Cu . l qy j- , H ca t 40 - .. 5. U> . .. "Z ' C.C ) bn -ac t u= ) .5 .o c /a .' H V.9 V- 20 THE MID-PACIFIC
7
I wonder how many people know the origin of the "Algaroba Tree". The word "Algaroba" is derived from the Greek word Ceratonia, meaning horn, in reference to the large pod. It is a tree originally of the Mediteranean basin and belongs to the Cassia tribe. The only species remaining, when discovered, are now widely distributed in the semi-tropical climates of the world and are very valuable for both shade and its edible pods. "Algaroba" trees grow to a height of fifty feet or more, are always green and bearing. In Europe the "Algaroba' beans are highly prized for fattening live stock; even in the markets of the North the dry pods are to be seen. The Longissima variety differs only in having very long pods. In the Hawaiian Islands the "Algaroba" grows abundantly and harvests large returns for the owner as well as to provide excellent shade for stock. The "Union Feed Co." of Honolulu have, after many years study in the grinding of "Algaroba" beans, finally decided upon the use of a mill manufactured exclusively by the Williams Patent Crusher & Pulverizing Co. of St. Louis, Mo. This is the only mill which has been proven to grind "Alga- roba" beans to a consistency wherein all the food values are obtained. The "Union Feed Co." of Honolulu have the exclusive agency for these mills in the Hawaiian Islands. By feeding "Algaroba" food you will get "more milk from your cows," "fatter hogs, beef and poultry for the market," "more eggs from your hens," "better looking and stronger horses for show or work," and at a less cost than any other grain food. The Union Feed Co. of Honolulu in addition to the "Algaroba bean food carry a full line of imported hay and grains for stock purposes. Enquiry by mail will be promptly replied to. Address all communications to UNION FEED CO., Honolulu, T. H. Cable address, Ajax. A beautiful and somewhat valuable pic- written in view of acquainting the incom- ture is often ruined by neglecting to have ing tourist of an excellent place to pro- it framed. The ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, cure meals while in the city. Table-d-hote LTD., 1122 Fort street, Honolulu, T. H., lunches and dinners at popular prices are experts in the art of picture framing prevail and it is needless to say the crui- and will guarantee satisfaction and serv- sine is the best the market affords. ice. Bring in your Picture today and Prompt service and courteous treatment talk it over. Picture sent by mail will is the slogan of the "Union Grill" on be promptly frame and returned. Don't King Street, ask anybody to direct you forget the name ARTS & CRAFTS SHOP, when hungry. Mr. J. D. Detor, who LTD., 1122 Fort St., Honolulu, T. H. has had many years' experience in hotel "Maile" Australian butter frrom the and cafe work, is in charge. Metropolitan Meat Market on King St., Probably one of the most widely known stands at the head for flavor and keeping wholesale commission merchants in the quality and is guaranteed. It is here Hawaiian Islands is F. E. DAVIES & Co. you also get the tender meats and fresh corner Merchant and Nuuanu streets. vegetables of which an abundant supply It is here you may place orders for is always on hand. Heilbron & Louis Wagons, Bicycles and Bicycle Tires, proprietors, have built .up a wonderful Hardware, Dry Goods, Shoes, heavy business through constancy and many Chemicals for plantation use, all kinds years' experience until now the METRO- and sizes of Rubber Hose and Belting, POLITAN MEAT MARKET 1S the central and in fact nearly all commodities of and most popular market place in Hono- commercial value, can be ordered through lulu. Telephone 1814. this enterprising concern. Enquiries by While the UNION GRILL is recognized mail will receive prompt attention and as the most popular Cafe in Honolulu by those who call at our offices will receive all progressive Hawaiians, this article is courteous treatment. THE MID-PACIFIC 21
Entrance of Lewers & Cooke's large establishment.
The VON HAMM YOUNG Co., Import- Chicken raising in the Hawaiian Isl- ers, Machinery Merchants and leading ands can be successfully carried on at a automobile dealers, have their offices and profit of from 50 to 100 per cent. The store in the Alexander Young Building, "CALIFORNIA FEED CO." of Honolulu at the corner of King and Bishop Sts., will give full instructions to anyone who and their magnificent automobile sales- is interested in "Chicken" raising as to room and garage just in the rear, facing the best methods of procedure, how to on Alakea street. Here one may find start, how to avoid and cure sore-head almost anything desired in the machin- and some general dont's in the raising of ery line, as well as the most extensive "Chickens" will be given free to those and complete line of automobile supplies who answer this article. Just drop a in the Islands, to say nothing of the large line to the "CALIFORNIA FEED CO.", Ho- stock of automobiles. nolulu, for full information regarding successful "Chicken" raising in the Ha- waiian Islands. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC
In June, 1911, Dr. Dai Yen Chang ferent species of edible fish found in the opened in the McCandless Building at Hawaiian waters—several merchants are the corner of Pauahi and Nuuanu Sts., interested in this market although Mr. the first Chinese dentist offices in Hono- Y. Anin is the leading spirit and lulu—at twenty-five years of age he is founder. a graduate of the Northwestern Univer- The City Mill Co., Mr. C. K. Ai, sity Dental Department of Chicago with Treasurer and Manager, with plant lo- the degree of D.D.S.—his clientel con- cated at Queen and Kekaulike streets, sists of all nationalities, and at times his constitutes one of the leading industrial office is filled with people of all nations. enterprises in Honolulu and do a flour- There is no doubt about the YEE Yi ishing lumber and mill business. The up- CHAN, Chinese restaurant at 119 Hotel to-date mill stands as a monument to St., being the best Chinese restaurant in pluck and energy on the part of Mr. Ai Honolulu. It simply is. Upstairs one and his associates. can get the best Chinese dinner of any- Yang Cheu Kiam is a druggist and where in the Islands and that's going has three popular stores in Honolulu, some. Tourists will do well to ask about one at 1071 Aala St., one at 1036 Mau- the Yee Yi Chan Chinese Restaurant nakea St., and at the corner of Bere- while sojourning here. tania and Fort Sts. Arriving in Hono- The most popular Chinese dry goods lulu in 1882 with nothing but a fair store in Honolulu is the YEE CHAN & education he has advanced to his pres- Co., store at the corner of King and ent position as a druggist, also as a Bethel Sts. Tourists will do well to re- large property holder—he is very gen- member that it is here they can buy the erous and deserves his many successes finest imported Chinese and Japanese in life. Silks as well as a full and complete Mr. Lee Chu of the Lee Chu Lumber stock of imported Fancy Dry Goods, Co., at Pauahi and River Sts., was the Grass Linen Goods, Clothing, Hats, first Chinese to engage in the lumber Shoes, Trunks, Traveling Cases, etc., business in Hawaii, and his steadily etc.—remember the name YEE CHAN 6r growing business denotes him to be a Co., Honolulu, Hawaii. leader in the lumber trade as his well- One of the most enterprising con- stocked yards indicate. Mr. Lee Chu is cerns, in Honolulu, is that of the Quong the principal owner and manager of this Sam Kee Co., at the corner of King and large and progressive company. Maunakea Sts. This firm, under the Lee Chuck at 729 Alakea St., for- management of Mr. Chu Gem, who is merly known as Achew Brothers, do a recognized as one of Hawaii's leading thriving business in Dry Goods, Grocer- Chinese, carry a full line of general ies, Fruits and Vegetables of all kinds merchandise, and drugs, supplying the with free deliveries to any part of the local dealers throughout the territory. city. Lee Chuck stands high in the Mr. K. 0. Kam, manager and organ- estimation of business men throughout izer of the City Mercantile Co., at 24 the community and deserves generous Hotel St., Honolulu, is ranked as one of patronage for his many, good deeds. the rising young business men of the city—dealers in all household utensils, courteous treatment is extended to all who do business with them. The Oahu Fish Market on King St., Honolulu, is one of the most interesting show places in the city—here one may see all the types of the different nation- alities of the islands as well as the dif- THE MID-PACIFIC 23
One of the American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and Honolulu, via Tehuantepec. ACROSS THE PACIFIC There are two ways to Hawaii, Aus- The Vancouver-Australia boats also tralia and Japan. From San Francisco stop for a day at Suva, Fiji, where the or from Vancouver. From San Fran- native of the South Seas may be seen cisco the Oceanic S. S. Co. dispatches in his pristine simplicity. A month's one of its boats every two weeks to Ho- stop-over, both in Hawaii and Suva, nolulu. Every four weeks one of its ves- may be made to advantage. By the big sels stops at Honolulu and goes on to cruising steamers of the Union Steam- Australia. ship Company there is a monthly cruise The Matson Navigation Co. also navi- in either direction, from Auckland to gates vessels to Hawaii, and through Sydney, stopping at ports of Fiji, Sa- tickets to Australia are sold from San moa and Tonga ; the fare on these Francisco by this line. The Pacific Mail cruises being $5 a day. dispatches a steamer for the Orient every The Union Steamship Co. makes a ten days, stopping at Honolulu. specialty of this cruise. There are From Vancouver the Canadian-Aus- cruises, annually, to the wonderful West tralian Line dispatches one of its splendid Coast sounds of New Zealand, grander steamers every fourth Wednesday via than the Fjords of Norway. There are Honolulu, Suva and Auckland to Sydney. monthly cruises to the Cook Islands and The "Niagara", the largest and finest Tahiti, where direct connection is made steamship playing south of the line, is on for San Francisco. this run.
It is 2400 miles from Vancouver to Forvaizammi,s ' Atti Honolulu, and the fare by the Cana- _IV dian-Australian monthly palatial steam- ers is $65.00 up, first-class. The through AT/ Ill itt fare to Australia is $200, with stop-over tfilim privileges. These Pacific Ocean grey- NM hounds stop for a day in Honolulu on ...„ the trips to and from the Australian f,orK •....AFIIII Colonies. The vessels of this Trans- .,.... ._:,. Pacific line belong to the Union S. S. ,. or Co. of New Zealand, the third largest steamship company flying the British ...... ,I flag. 24 THE MIDPACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand
Native New Zealanders at Rotorua. Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government west coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand, a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most ship Co. also transfers passengers from scenic glaciers in the world. In these Sydney. The Government Tourist Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 25 Australia for the Tourist Climate exerts a wonderful influence dezvous for fashion and beauty, who on scenery. The Continent of Austra- revel in the exhilarating Alpine de- lia—a vast territory equal in extent to lights of ski-running, ice-skating and the United States of America—with its tobogganing. finger tips almost reaching the equator In every State are extensive series at Cape York, the northern extremity of underground caves — at Chillagoe of Queensland, and Tasmania dipping its Caves in Queensland, Jenolan, Wom- feet in the icy waters of the Southern beyan and Yarrangobilly in New Ocean, for 200 miles it boldly sweeps South Wales—at Buchan in Victoria, from north to south through the trop- Naracoorte in South Australia, Yal- ical, subtropical and temperate zones. lingup in Western Australia, and at But by far the biggest part lies Chudleigh in Tasmania. They are of within the temperate zone, and enjoys bewildering extent and transcendental a remarkably equable and salubrious beauty. climate, like that of southern France Australian rivers are miniatures • and Italy. The proof of the salubrity compared to the Amazon or Hudson, of the Australian climate is reflected in but there are those who prefer a mini- the fact that the country's death rate ature to a large canvas. What Austra- is the lowest in the world. lian streams may lack in grandeur is Australia has much to show the richly compensated for by their com- tourist. It opens up a new field of in- pelling beauty and abiding charm. terest and pleasure for the round-the- The Australian coastline is a world world traveler, and for the political of delightful holiday places. There is and social student. a stupendous chain of rocky promon- It is true it holds no single out- tories endlessly linked by golden standing feature which may be held beaches of glistening sands, washed by before the world as without parallel. the foaming breakers of the Blue Pa- Australia has no falls like Niagara, no cific. Surfbathing by both sexes in canyons like Colorado, nor river like Australia's glorious sunshine has come the Mississippi. It nevertheless has to be a feature of the National Life. many fine waterfalls of striking beauty, Australia possesses several magnifi- like the Barron Falls in Queensland, cent lacustrine districts, notably the and the Fitzroy Falls in New South Gippsland Lakes in Victoria, the Lakes Wales. It has many magnificent trout of the Tasmania Tableland—Great streams, notably the Goodradigbee and Lake and Lake St. Clair, and the Myall Upper Murray, which have by experi- Lakes of New South Wales. The dom- enced anglers been given pride of inant note of these secluded spots is place before the famous Scottish their air of restful quiet, where tired streams. It has many chains of moun- constitutions renew their vitality and tains, not of the titanic proportions of overwrought nerves are reinvigorated. the Andes or Rockies, but which con- Australia teems with scenic resorts, tain stupendous bluffs and gaping distinct and unique, just because they chasms, and have a distinct and ap- are Australian. Australia has its own pealing grandeur. The Blue Moun- characteristics, its very atmosphere is tains are known wherever Australia is Australian ; its landscape colorings be- known, for their peculiar atmospheric long to it, and to it alone. It has fauna mantle which always enshrouds them, and flora absolutely apart. for their gorgeous colorings, their fairy- Full information concerning Austra- lands of fern, and their orchestral cas- lia as a country for the Tourist may be cades and waterfalls. At Kosciusko, obtained from the Secretary, Depart- Australia's greatest mountain, higher ment of External Affairs, Melbourne, than Righi or Pilatus, and on the Buf- and the Directors of the Government falo Mountains in Victoria, the coun- Tourist Bureaux in the Capitals of tryside is deeply snow-covered in win- Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Ade- ter. and these resorts are made the ren- laide, Perth and Hobart. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC New South Wales Tourist Bureau tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- dous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- tus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas, impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor. The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- tions, which must for ever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more Physical configuration and a wide marvelous or beautiful system of caves range of climate give the State of New than these at Jenolan, which tourists South Wales its wonderful diversity of from everywhere have marked as their scenery, its abundance of magnificent own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- plemented and rivalled by the extensive ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- bewildering array of scenic attractions, ly, a little further away from Sydney. and the peculiar strangeness of the forms In the south on the Australian Alps, of its animal and vegetable life, which lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which makes New South Wales one of the most contains the highest peak in the Conti- interesting countries in the world, and nent, and is said to be the oldest land sur- one which an up-to-date, well-traveled face on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, tourist must see. a modern spa, replete with every conve- The climate of the State ranges from nience, golf links and tennis courts, an the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the ideal tourist headquarters, stands at an sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- altitude of 6000 feet. In summer, the ers, and withal is one of the most equable mountaineer and trout fisherman stays in the world. Its eastern shore is washed here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific summit, or fill his bag with fish caught and stretches by meadow, tableland and in a handy stream, and in winter the ski- mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath runner, tobogganer and ice-skater revels the rim of the setting sun. in the Alpine carnivals conducted on the Sydney, the capital, is the great tour- glistening snowfields. ist rendezvous. It is an important com- The Government Tourist Bureau, a mercial center, but the incomparable splendidly equipped Institution at Challis beauty of its situation has given it wide- House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- spread fame as a holiday city. Its mighty mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to harbor with its peculiar and sustained all inquirers in connection with the tour- beauty, is the talk of the world. North ist resorts of the State. Special itinera- and South from the capital is flung the ries are planned, and everything possible rugged Pacific coast, with its line of is done by the Bureau to facilitate the golden dazzling beaches, the palpitating mcvements and put to the best use the haunts of the surf bather. time of visitors while in New South Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- Wales. THE MID-PACIFIC 27 The Railways of New South Wales The State Railways of New South Mountains are but sixty miles from Wales penetrate almost every part of Sydney, and special low rate week-end scenic Australia. Westward they cross tickets are sold to these. In fact, all the wonderful Blue Mountains to the kinds of cheap railway excursions are marvelous plains that stretch across cen- arranged from time to time by the Rail- tral Australia. Southward they extend ways. The State Railways of New along the scenic coast and diverge to- South Wales have in Challis House, ward the finest grazing and wheat coun- Martin Place, a booking office for all of try of the continent, for it is in southern the lines, and as the Government Tourist New South Wales that is being built at Bureau and its splendid exhibition rooms Burronjack the greatest dam in the are in the same building, the tourist world. It is the southern Railway line may book here for any part of the con- that carries the tourist to the Mt. Kos- tinent, or arrange his tours by rail, ciusko district, this mountain being the motor and steamer. From Challis House highest peak in Australia, and the dis- the excursionist may book by rail and trict, the Alpine region of the Island motor for the marvelous Jenolan Caves Continent. The northern line makes by way of the Blue Mountains, or for known the North Coast district and the Yarrangobilly Caves by way of Tu- penetrates into the great timberland of mut, a typical interior Australian town. the north. This section also taps the Here with the approval of the Govern- wonderful Darling Downs, and connects ment Tourist Bureau, special low rate with the Railway for Brisbane, and the rail, motor, and hotel tickets are sold for scenic splendours of Queensland. an inclusive trip to the summit of Mt. Nightly trains of sleeping cars leave Kosciusko. It is a wise provision that Sydney for Melbourne and Brisbane. the Government Railways booking office, These sleeping cars are different from the immigration bureau and the tourist the American in that they are divided bureau of New South Wales are all lo- into two and four berth compartments ; cated in the same building, as the three each stateroom having its own toilet work together hand in hand to make conveniences. Notwithstanding the ad- New South Wales known to the tourist, vantages, the rates or the same as on the immigrant, and investor. The Railways pullman cars ; ten shillings or $2.50 in of New South Wales are governed by addition to the first-class fare. To the immigrant who is looking for land the three commissioners. The secretary of New South Wales Railways give a the Chief Commissioner is Mr. J. S. special ticket good over all the lines for Spurway, whose pleasure it is to see that a month at a very low rate. For the any inquirers are supplied with what in- tourist landing in Sydney special very formation they desire concerning the low rate tickets to Melbourne, Adelaide, Government Railway system of New and Brisbane are issued. The Blue South Wales ? 28 THE MID-PACIFIC Scenic Splendors of Victoria The mountains of Victoria are the ernment chalet are issued on Fridays by most picturesque of any in Australia. the 4 p. m. Express train from Mel- The agricultural country is the most ac- bourne and the entire cost is but five cessible as the Victorian Railways are pounds or $25. There are special seven- planning to bring every grain grower day trips including rail, accommodation, within ten miles of a railway. Her sea- and coach drives for but three pounds or side resorts are the most salubrious, $15. The Government arranges trips to and at one of them, St. Kildas, is the the Lakes, Buchan Caves, the Victorian largest inclosed swimming bath in the Alpine district, and the sea-side resorts. world. The State Railway has estab- From time to time on this and succeed- lished in the center of business Mel- ing pages, you will learn something of bourne a Government Tourist Informa- the wonders of Victoria. tion Bureau and ticket office. Here in- From Sydney or from Adelaide, the formation is distributed and tickets sold over-seas or New Zealand tourist is to the Victorian resorts. Special low given a very low railway rate to Mel- rate fares are made to the over-sea tour- bourne, and his wisest course on arrival ist, and there are tempting week-end is to call at the Victorian Government trips. Where it is necessary the govern- Tourist Bureau opposite the Town Hall ment erects its own hotel in the moun- on Collins Street, where handbooks, maps tains. It has its Chalet on the beautiful Buffalo Plateau, which is a mountain and hotel guides are issued on applica- wonderland superior to any in Australia, tion, and in the same office railway tick- and this is being developed. Skiing ets may be purchased to any part of courses are being laid out and tracks cut Australia. If you are writing for in- to the many beauty spots. To this re- formation it would be wise to drop a gion, inclusive week-end tickets covering line to Mr. E. B. Jones, the acting transport and accommodation at the gov- Secretary of the Victorian Railways.
Country life in Victoria. THE MID-PACIFIC 2? Victoria for the Farmer Of seventeen American irrigation farm- equal to anything in California, while ers who crossed the Pacific to investigate the danger of frost did not exist. The the irrigated lands of Victoria, fifteen re- American is welcomed in Victoria. An mained and one voluntarily returned to American, Elwood Meade, being at the America to bring out another party of head of the irrigation propaganda of fifteen American farmers. These ex- Victoria. Mr. Meade will be remember- perienced grain growers of Western ed with George Girling and William E. America, familiar with irrigated lands of Smythe in America as one of the' or- California and the other Western States, iginal callers of the first American ir- stated that the price of five shillings an rigation congress. It is an odd coinci- acre for the annual water rights, charged dence that George Girling in the Hart- by the Victorian Government, was many ford Building, Chicago, and Elwood times lower than any water rate in Meade in the Executive Buildings in America. They also found that the land Melbourne, are working together to let could be purchased for a fourth of the the American farmer know what the ir- price per acre that similar land would rigated lands of the State of Victoria cost in the Western United States, and offer him. From England the State of moreover that the price received by the Victoria assists selected farm workers, farmer for his irrigated products was and these inevitably in time become land greater in Australia than in America. owners. The Americans who are com- The policy of the Railways to place ing to Victoria are men of experience. every farmer within ten miles of a rail- They find that they have moved to an- road seemed incredible to the American other American State for all the differ- visitors until they went out on the rail- ence they can find is in the form of gov- ways to study the system of branch lines ernment. After a three months' resi- adopted by the government. They ex- dence they vote ; Americans having ser- pressed themselves as more than pleased ved in Parliament. Victoria also has an with a government owned railway that Immigration Bureau in San Francisco, will run in the interests of the farmer, so that Americans wishing information instead of as a part of a colossal "trust" may secure books and reading matter that must pay big dividends on enor- free of charge from George Girling in mously watered stock. These farmers the Hartford Building in Chicago, from stated to a representative of the MID- the Victorian Immigration Bureau in PACIFIC MAGAZINE that in every way San Francisco, or from the Department the irrigated fruit lands of Victoria were of Immigration in Melbourne.
Australia's Sheep: Some Fine Merino Specimens. 30 THE MID-PACIFIC Fruitful South Australia and there is a government Intelligence and Tourist Bureau where the tourist, investor or settler is given accurate in- THE formation, guaranteed by the govern- SORYNEWN TERRITORY ment, and free to all. From Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river and motor QUEENSLAND excursions to almost every part of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted AUSS Rp1, A SOUTH through the magnificent mountain and AUSTRAL pastoral scenery of South Australia. The government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for caring for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions are arranged to the holiday resorts ; individuals or parties are made familar with the industrial resources, and From San Francisco, Vancouver and the American as well as the Britisher is from Honolulu there are two lines of fast made welcome if he cares to make South steamships to Sydney, Australia. Australia his home. From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- The South Australian Intelligence and tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on which concession fares are granted King William street, Adelaide, and the tourists arriving from overseas, and no government has printed many illustrated visitor to the Australian Commonwealth books and pamphlets describing the can afford to neglect visiting the south- scenic and industrial resources of the ern central state of Australia ; for South state. A post card or letter to the Intel- Australia is the state of supurb climate ligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the will secure the books and information garden city of the south, is the capital, you may desire. THE MID-PACIFIC 31 Tasmania for the Tourist
A Fern Forest near Hobart. Tasmania is the Garden State of Aus- see, and that is the wonderful gorge and tralia. At this writing the State Rail- cataracts surrounded by a rugged and ways, the Tasmanian Tourist Bureau at beautiful park given by one of Launces- Hobart and the Bureau at Launceston ton's citizens. From Launceston the are uniting their efforts to arrange for Railway also takes the excursionist to Tasmania to have a tourist bureau sup- the beauty spots along the north and ported and conducted by the Govern- west coasts. The first turbine steamer ment. The work that Hobart has done on the Pacific was the ferryboat placed to advertise and make Tasmania known in service between Launceston and i'vrer- deserves the admiration and thanks of b::urne. There is time on leaving Laun- the thousands of tourists who have been ceston to view the beautiful Derwent induced to visit the Hobart region and River, and then a quiet sleep and Mel- to send their friends to visit this beauty bourne is reached in the morning. In spot of Australia, surrounded as it is by Melbourne, the capital of Australia, Tas- one of the most marvelous apple and mania has a splendid tourist bureau in fruit districts in the world. The Ameri- the Union Steamship Company Building can tourist can easily reach Hobart by on William street, dividing the first floor direct steamer from Sydney or from with the New Zealand Tourist Bureau. Auckland by steamer that makes almost Mr. T. E. Emmett is in charge, and will the entire round of New Zealand, and gladly supply literature. Mr. J. Moore visits Hobart. Splendid tours are map- Robinson is in charge of the Tasmanian ped out by the Railway for the tourist Tourist Bureau in Hobart, where Mr. G. after he reaches either Hobart of Laun- A. Smith, the head of the Railways, is ceston. It is but a few hours railway located. Mr. L. S. Bruce is the man- ride across Tasmania from Hobart to ager in charge of the Launceston Bureau Launceston, and here too is a splendid and any of these gentlemen will be and well conducted tourist bureau. pleased to give or forward information There is one sight within Launceston concerning the Garden Island of the that is worth crossing the Pacific to Southern Hemisphere. 32 THE MID-PACIFIC • 4, 141,11,314.1•41 5..,94 • 41•0•4414),SIVIMMIM t),•I4 5 .5 .._. E i 1 • E ...1 'A (--- • ii. is •
-c-= g 4d 3 • el — . •
• • .■ ------: , \ `4. . .-",,,, • 4 • •
This is a scene in the Wahiawa plantation of the Hawaiian Pineapple Products Co. From the fresh i ft whole pine is produced Dole's Pineapple Juice, which is known throughout the United States at the K Soda Fountains and in the Grocery Stores. 4 g • lteNii •• VENT•IMits1 • re. rretrellysart•tem117•11 • lysilMilaWahltriaracti ltrigitei•tr- rriatetri•IIMUSil •ursiir•
• •
rptr. &&&&&&& && ti rtiAlraiAlOrtirdremlfriAltriestillYiOrtatifi • • • •
00te, 0.05-0.00 1.ta% Va; ;04; mwom
Oetom'° 7 ■ m - ii oo4o 4ngo IAN t 4rtW OM zc r elgE
tri 44 fD W,,"; .* M1 614: m
5ow°614;.b "i0111 g1414; 17401* Za "0
r-044 A °."°4 Omrm,04 m4f0 VI 0C eo .g00 00 0,0L e. g o. e0 ;10
7e;5 ?li e''4t
; 0 $"
:03M OW=OMM
mon 99999999999 vmpv,Ivsamtlyve,■,.,/vmmt),scl 9999
PRINTED BY HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN, MERCHANT ST. BRANCH