PAKISTAN CHINA NAP AL

Stepping down

Arabian Bay of Sea Bengal

Restoring forgotten ancient step wells

above Chand Baori in the village of Abhaneri near , Rajasthan, of Rajasthan is one of the deepest in India, and was built in AD 800. More than 30m deep, it boasts 3,500 steps down 13 storeys.

Indian step wells, unique to this part of the world, combine function with fine architectural splendour. Sadly, most have been sadly neglected in modern

times. Bhawani Shanker Kusum reports on a new both by archaeologists and travellers, project that is restoring many to their former glory. many have fallen into a state of decline and derelicition. Yet, for more than 500 arly Indian mythology cites Since earliest times, stone clad cisterns years, they played an integral part of five elements of nature: sky, were built to capture rain during the western Indian communities as sites earth, fire, air, and, the most torrential downpours of the monsoon for drinking, washing, and bathing. In important of them all, water. season so that water was available Hindu mythology, water is the boundary Water is essential for life throughout the dry months of the rest of between heaven and earth, known as Ein the arid states of in north west India, the year; it is from these ancient traditions Tirtha, and therefore these step wells where temperatures can soar above 45°C of water conservation that the ornate played an important part in sacred rituals in summer. Indeed, it was the ability of step wells, unique to the Indian states of as the venues for these colourful festivals. early societies here to conserve and control Rajasthan and Gujaret, were created. Most that survive today belong to the this precious resource that saw the rise of Medieval period, though the earliest the mighty Indus Civilisation – one of the Ritual waters examples date to 5th century AD – three ancient civlisations of the Old World There are about 3,000 step wells – or baolis possibly even earlier – and were still being – as it emerged along the Indus River, and –in Rajasthan and Gujarat, yet they are built as late as the 19th century. These went on to flourish beyond the reaches of largely unknown outside the country, and, magnificent structures are much more the natural river basin. sadly, often neglected within. Overlooked than utilitarian reservoirs: their lattice-like above The Adalaj in the province of neighbouring Gujaret was built in AD 1499 by Queen Rudabai. 34 CurrentWorldArchaeology Issue 69 india

above Local women collect water from the step an integral part at the end of life. On the only provide an efficient means to control well, a daily ritual that is also a chance to socialise. ninth day following a death in the family, and supply water to local communities, but above right Renovating down to the depths the relatives would take part in a bathing also to re-introduce a vibrant social centre of Boharaji ki Bawari. ritual known as ‘Nai ka Nahan’, to wash for the people living there. Furthermore, walls, carved columns, decorated towers, away way their grief, and to help them it is hoped that the newly restored wells and intricate sculpture make them continue in the land of the living. will attract visitors keen to get a taste of exceptional examples of architecture. the culture and style of a bygone era, thus Here, travellers would break their long Running dry generating more business to boost incomes distance journey to quench their thirst Most step wells that survive today belong within these communities. and rest in the cool shade. to the Medieval period, though the earliest These stone buildings, some as deep as examples date to 5th century AD – possibly Future wellbeing three to nine stories, are often decorated even earlier – and were still being built as The Gram Bharati Samiti, or Society for with elaborate carvings on their walls, late as the 19th century. These magnificent Rural Development, with the help of the columns, and towers: Hindu architecture structures are much more than utilitarian Prince Claus Fund, has, so far, restored in Rajasthan, with its origins in the reservoirs: their lattice-like walls, carved five of neglected step wells in rural parts of 7th century, was invested with ritual columns, decorated towers, and intricate Rajasthan, affecting about 7,000 people in and social symbolism, and the highly sculpture make them exceptional examples 10 villages: decorated step well walls, cornices, of architecture. The stone buildings, some pilasters, pillars, and niches reflect this as deep as three to nine stories, are often Banjaron ki Bawari: The well lies in the symbolism. decorated with elaborate carvings on village of Thali was built about 1,500 Before beginning married life together, their walls, columns, and towers: Hindu years ago by Lakhi Banjara, the chief of a newly weds are taken by the groom's architecture in Rajasthan, with its origins in nomadic tribe in the area long before the family to their local step well to pay the 7th century, was invested with ritual and village was established. The well is made of homage to the pantheon of deities, along social symbolism, and the highly decorated a white stone hewn from nearby quarries; with the family god or goddess. The well step well walls, cornices, pilasters, pillars, the construction was achieved without is a symbol of the water of the gods, and and niches reflect this symbolism. below The newly restored Banjaron ki Bawari, as seen from the bridegroom, as a mark of respect, is Earthquake damage and general neglect the steps that lead down, past the galleries, to the water below. required to take an oath to protect and combined with long term droughts, preserve this life-giving source. which saw the water reserves dry up, has Twenty one days after the arrival of a resulted in many of these magnificent newborn child, the mother is brought to structures being abandoned and forgotten. the step well for the cleansing ritual of Eventually, the skills required to maintain ‘Jalwa’ or ‘Kunwa poojan’ (worshipping of and repair the step wells were lost, and well or water) associated with giving birth. finally most of the buildings fell into ruin. This is a joyous affair, with the young Bore holes with hand-operated pumps mother's family forming a procession and were drilled into the structures as a short singing folk songs, which simultaneously term solution to supply drinking water, announces to the community at large the but this simply caused further damage. arrival of their latest member. Now a restoration project is underway The step well traditionally also played to restore these ancient step wells, to not

www.world-archaeology.com CurrentWorldArchaeology 35 above Chooli Bawari. leader, Kanaram Meena built the step above Boharaji ki Bawari and (left) during well to provide water for his people, restoration work. razing a nearby hill in the process. But local people. The same family had already the well remained dry, so he consulted built the temple of Balaji (Hanumanji) a wise man. This learned Brahmin told here, from which the well takes its name, Kanaram that water would come only if with rooms for the villagers to perform someone was prepared to sacrifice their acts of worships, such as hawan (offerings life through self-immolation following in sacrificial fire) and yagya (sacrificial act). profound meditation (a high level of yoga). Kanaram’s daughter Chooli Bagichiwali Bawari: In 1625, descendents volunteered, and water flowed in the of the same family responsible for Balaji step well following her selfless act for the any supporting or filling material, such ki Bawari built the Bagichiwali Bawari in benefit of the community. The step well as lime or concrete. For many years, the their own village Bhanpur, with another was named in her honour, and became a Banjaron ki Bawari was the only source reservoir, outside, for birds and animals. A centre for religious worship. Hundreds of of water for Thali. It was also where the temple stands at the entrance to the step pilgrims visit the religious here, especially villages came to pray after bathing, at a well, where people perform prayers with on Mondays and Saturdays - believed to temple dedicated to the deity Sitaramji water taking from the well, with another be the most auspicious days prayers. The that was erected in front of the step well. enclosure adjacent to it where the villages saint Gyandas stayed here, renouncing meet for social and religious gatherings. earthly pleasures, and another famous Boharaji ki Bawari: According to local Indian saint, Bhartrihari, stayed here legend this stepwell and Thakurji’s temple Chooli Bawari : A sad tale of sacrifice while journeying through the region. were built in 1510 by Deenaramji Bohara recounts the origins of the Chooli on the insistence of his wife. Many cultural Bawari. When the Mandar Meena Bhawani Shanker Kusum is a freelance and religious events take place here – such community settled here at Sarjoli, their journalist and Secretary and Executive as the annual festival for the goddess Jobner Director of Gram Bharati Samiti (Society for below The newly restored step well at Bagichiwali, Mataji, when thousands of the visitors and (inset) local people met to relax, socialise and Rural Development) based in Jaipur, India. would bathe in the Boharaji ki Bawari, and enjoy the cool water. ([email protected]) then worship in the temple alongside it.

Balaji ki Bawari: A wealthy business family from Bhanpur built the Balaji ki Bawari in 1208 in the village of Baas as a philanthropic act to provide water for the below Balaji ki Bawari.

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