DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for , , Switzerland & the New Europe

At Random Maybe, just maybe, we are en- tering a period of less expensive ST. GALLEN travel to Europe. The euro has gone from a high of 1.62 to today’s price Eastern Switzerland’s principal city and cultural center is far down most of 1.42, a drop of about 12 percent. Americans’ travel wish list. Here’s what they’re missing. It’s a start. That E100 hotel room is now $142 instead of $162. Everyone erhaps St. Gallen’s two most round this humble fellow, includ- I know in the business of selling important attractions are a ing stories about a helpful bear that European travel reports a signifi- Pchurch library and a textile gathered wood for him in a nearby cantly lower demand for the rest of museum. Doesn’t sound exciting? forest. For that reason one still sees ’08 and into ’09: air tickets, hotels, Trust me, the library is one of the bear symbols in this saintly city. country’s great rental cars, vacation rentals, rail by Sharon Hudgins The construction of a Benedic- tickets, the works. According to my indoor sights tine monastery at the site where Econ 101 professor, lower demand and, in a quiet, understated way, the Gallus had settled began a golden will inevitably mean lower prices, museum’s lace embroidery exhibi- age that lasted from the 9th to the and perhaps bring the kind of inex- tion is almost as spectacular. Toss in 11th century when the Abbey pensive deals we haven’t seen for a rich history, an interesting cuisine, reached its intellectual, and eco- several years. Let’s hope. a location tailor-made for daytrip- nomic peak. It was then that the ping, and you have a worthy desti- **** scholar-monks established a library nation—but one virtually unknown that became one of Europe’s most The price of jet fuel has to Americans. dropped—from $4.27 per gallon in important centers of learning. July to $3.32 at the end of August— The city is named for Gallus, its Meanwhile, a town grew up but so far no corresponding drop in first inhabitant, a wandering Irish around the Abbey and, in 1524, St. airline add-on charges for fuel. Ac- monk who built a little hermitage Gallen embraced the Protestant cording to FareCompare.com, sur- there in 610. Several legends sur- Continued on page 3… charges on domestic airline tickets averaged $20 a year ago. Today the highest surcharge on a domestic Munich’s Halls & Gardens roundtrip is $170. The average fuel surcharge for a transatlantic flight ünchners know that the best menu is required. Another is to is currently $340. You may also pay places to drink fresh beer serve yourself at tables without a fuel surcharge if you are lucky M and eat traditional Bavarian cloths, purchasing beer and food enough to get a ticket with frequent food at reasonable prices are the city’s (sandwiches, sausages, grilled fish, flyer miles. The airlines justify not many beer halls, cozy taverns, and rotisserie chicken) from outdoor cutting fuel surcharges by saying leafy beer gardens. Taken as a whole, stalls. Or, you can bring your own these establish- food (and tablecloth) for a picnic; the they were behind the curve in re- by Sharon Hudgins acting to the rapid increase in oil ments are more only rule being you must buy beer prices earlier this year. Methinks than restaurants dispensing great and other beverages on the premises. fuel surcharges are simply dis- beer and authentic local food, they are Picnicking at a beer garden is a great guised fare hikes more easily swal- the city’s everyday social centers, way to participate in an old Munich lowed by travelers already condi- attracting business executives, labor- tradition—and save money. tioned by rising prices at the gas ers, students, families, shoppers, and, Another nice thing about Ger- pump. Given the intense competi- of course, tourists. man beer gardens is that children tion in airline ticket sales, and the Beer gardens are generally open are welcome, in fact many have lower price of jet fuel, somebody’s spring through autumn, and most kids’ playgrounds. For nondrinkers going to reduce the fuel surcharge. also have a year-round indoor restau- there are soft drinks, juices, coffee, **** rant. Your first option is to dine out- tea, and alcohol-free beer. It should Syndicated travel writer and doors in a garden’s restaurant section Continued on page 6… consumer watchdog, Ed Perkins, (a designated area usually identified Exchange rates as of 9/5/08 (www.travelsmart.com) alerted me by tablecloths on the wooden tables), 1 euro = $1.42 Continued on page 2… where ordering from the restaurant’s 1 Swiss franc = $0.90 www.gemut.com September 2008 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER lesser discount is available for book- should be, is www.slowtrav.com, Continued from page 1 ings made by the end of November. By where one can read thoughtful and, the way, there’s a ton of information to best of all, trustworthy reviews of to a new problem with credit cards. be mined on just about any cruise at European vacation rental properties. For security reasons, most European our website, www.gemut.com. In the The answer to 90-percent of Euro- credit cards contain a chip requiring a right-hand navigation column, under pean travel questions can be found in PIN (personal identification number) “Plan Your Trip,” click “Cruise/Pack- the dozen or so websites listed on to complete transactions. In other age Tour Search.” page four. words in addition to providing a sig- **** nature, European cardholders often **** Starting October 1, United will have to supply a PIN. Many Ameri- For this sordid little item you first charge for meals served in economy need to know that Switzerland gets can cardholders don’t have such a class on transatlantic flights between most of its oil from Libya. Recently, number and have thus been denied Washington Dulles Airport and Euro- the Libyan government advised its use of their cards at some European pean destinations. Assuming no more citizens not to travel to Switzerland. establishments. However, Americans than a dozen or so flight attendants Why? Two employees of Muammar who have a credit card PIN are not are physically abused by starved, flat- Gaddafi’s son, Hannibal, and wife, advised to use it for normal purchas- broke passengers, this is a policy that Alice, filed and then withdrew a crim- es, since some U.S. banks treat these will spread to other routes. Whatever. inal complaint against the pair for transactions as cash advances and A good, fresh deli sandwich carried “bodily injury, restraint, and verbal impose various extra charges. Visa aboard beats the microwave TV-din- threats” that reportedly took place in (and one assumes Mastercard as well) ner fare currently being served. the Gaddafi suite at a Geneva luxury counsels cardholders in these situa- hotel. Three years ago in Paris, the **** tions to, first, advise the merchant that gallant Mr. Gaddafi was given a four- Because it’s pretty much the same a PIN is not required with chip-less month suspended sentence for slap- month after month, you may have cards, then to swipe the card and fol- ping a pregnant woman and for car- begun to ignore the little Gemütlichkeit low the prompts in his card reader. If rying a gun.—RHB that doesn’t work, ask the merchant to feature (usually on page four) that phone a Visa representative. Bottom lists websites especially useful to Eu- Using Gemütlichkeit line: Visa says your signature-only rope-bound travelers. Though the list • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts card should be accepted by all partici- hasn’t changed much over the past are often available for longer stays. • All hotel prices include breakfast unless other- pating Visa merchants. couple of years, some of the websites wise noted. have. Viamichelin.com, for example, **** • Local European telephone area codes carry the just keeps adding features and is an “0” required for in-country dialing. To phone Now is the very best time to book a indispensable tool for the auto travel- establishments from outside the country, such cruise. Most cruise companies give as from the USA, do not dial the first “0”. er. At www.bahn.de one can now their biggest discounts for early book- purchase point-to-point rail tickets. Logging on to Our Website ing. Uniworld, for example, discounts The tourist office websites for Germa- Back issues in PDF format from January 1993, except some riverboat trips as much as $1000 ny, Austria and Switzerland constant- for the most recent 10, are available free to subscribers per person if booked prior to Septem- only at www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To ly add content and features to their ber 30 (plus you get a five-percent access the issues, enter the user name and password thousands of pages of useful info. A discount if you reserve through our published in this space each month. The new codes are: site that’s not listed, but probably travel department—800-521-6722x2). A User Name: nmag Password: 5082

Vol. 22, No. 8 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY September 2008 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Executive Editor:Robert Nikki H. Goth Bestor Itoi Contributors:Contributors:Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Tom Johnson Bross Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Paul SharonT. Merschdorf Hudgins Adequate 4 - 7 ConsultingConsulting Editor: Editor: Thomas Thomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: Kurt Kurt Steffans Steffans SubscriberSubscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura Riedel Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by UpCountry People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 10 issues. While Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 no guarantees regarding accuracy. Facilities/Restaurant 20% POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 September 2008 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com ST. GALLEN St. Gallen Basics Schützengarten Brewery (Switzer- Continued from page 1 land’s oldest), with 2,000 bottles Population: 74,000 from around the world. Reformation. It was during the mid- Elevation: 675 meters (2,215 feet) Every Wednesday and Saturday dle ages that the region became an Visitor Information: St. Gallen- the Marktplatz hosts an open-air important linen-producing center. Bodensee Tourismus, Bahnhofplatz market, and flea markets are fre- Cotton later supplanted flax in the 1a, 9001 St. Gallen, tel. +41/71-227- quent in summer and fall (the tourist local spinning and weaving mills, 37-37, fax 227-37-67, [email protected] office has schedule info). and during the Industrial Revolution bodensee.ch, www.st.gallen- the machine-embroidery industry bodensee.ch Guided tours can provide a good created new wealth for the city’s Driving distances from: overview of a city. St. Gallen’s tourist entrepreneurs. Basel 170 km 106 miles office offers walking tours every Sat- urday (January to April), Monday Today, the production of textiles Bern 210 km 130 miles through Saturday (May to October), and fabric in and around St. Gallen Geneva 370 km 230 miles and an additional tour on Sundays in is in high gear, and the town re- Lucerne 140 km 87 miles June and July (CHF 15 for adults). mains a major Swiss cultural center, Munich 264 km 164 miles Each Tuesday’s tour focuses on a with a symphony orchestra, muse- Zürich 85 km 53 miles single theme, such as art and archi- ums, and many fine buildings from Discounts: Some museum tickets tecture, houses and their inhabitants, medieval to modern. Its university is are valid for other museums on the or witches and saints, with special one of the leading European centers same day. Check with the tourist information office for other current Christmas-theme tours in December. for the study of economics and busi- discounts. English-language tours on request ness, and hosts the annual St. Gallen (phone ahead). Meeting point: Tour- Symposium, a world-renowned fo- Nearest airport: Airport St.-Gallen- Altenrhein, served by Austrian Air- ist Information, Bahnhofplatz 1a. rum on contemporary global issues. lines. Nearest large airport is Zürich, Sightseeing with frequent train connections be- Day Trips tween St. Gallen and the airport. Two commodities Switzerland is Compact enough to see the main famous for—cheese and chocolate— sights in two or three days, the city Rail service: Numerous rail connec- tions from the Hauptbahnhof on the should be tasted at their source, and is interesting enough for a longer Swiss national rail system, ICE ex- St. Gallen is a place to do just that. A stay, especially as a base for Bodens- press trains, and private railways with short drive away, in the tiny village ee excursions and to other nearby routes to the Alps. of Stein, at the Appenzeller attractions. Most of the historic Alts- Recommended guidebooks: St. Schaukäserei (Demonstration tadt is a pedestrian zone of narrow Gallen City Guide (2007), available at Cheese Dairy), the public can view cobblestone lanes, spacious squares, the tourist office, bookstores, and mu- the entire cheese-making process in and lively sidewalk cafes. Facing the seum shops (CHF 10). Discover and a modern, automated factory. Its streets are the wealthy textile mer- Experience St. Gallen – Lake Constance shop sells a good selection of chees- chants’ houses, many of their fa- Region 2008, free booklet available es, other milk products, jams, choco- cades adorned with the ornate oriels from St. Gallen-Bodensee Tourismus, lates, local wines, and fruit liquors. (bay windows) for which St. Gallen [email protected] In the adjacent restaurant, a tasting is famous. gans (check the schedule of organ platter of five Appenzeller cheeses Start at the old Abbey District, a concerts). costs CHF 7.50/person, and the UNESCO World Heritage Site since menu offers a variety of local cheese Museums of note include the 1983. The gems of this ecclesiastical dishes for CHF 8-26. (Appenzeller large Textile Museum, with a per- complex are the Monastery Library Schaukäserei, 9063 Stein AR, tel. manent collection of Swiss embroi- and the Cathedral of St. Gallus and +41/71-368-50-70, fax 368-50-75, dery, textile treasures from the 4th to Otmar. The dazzling rococo Library [email protected], 20th centuries, and special tempo- rates three stars (“worth a journey”) www.schaukaeserei.ch) in Michelin’s Green Guide for Switzer- rary exhibits. The hand-embroidered Save time for the superb Appen- land. The current building (con- lace will bring oohs and aahs even zeller Folk Art Museum next door, structed in the 1700s) houses a price- from husbands. and its three floors of fascinating less collection of books and illumi- Furnished period rooms from regional folk art and exhibits on dai- nated manuscripts dating to the 8th 16th and 17th century St. Gallen are ly life in this part of Switzerland. century. Though the monastery was featured at the Museum of History (Appenzeller Volkskunde Museum, officially disbanded in 1805, the li- and Ethnology. The Museum of 9063 Stein AR, tel. +41/71-368-50-56, brary remains intact, as does the Fine Arts offers a rich collection of fax 368-50-55, info@appenzeller- splendid Baroque cathedral with its paintings and sculptures from the museum-stein.ch, www.appenzeller- exquisitely carved wooden choir Middle Ages to the present. There is museum-stein.ch) stalls and two impressive pipe or- even a Beer Bottle Museum at the

Gemütlichkeit 3 September 2008 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com Also near St. Gallen is Schoggi- walk or take public transportation to easy seven-minute walk from the land in the town of Flawil, site of the the major sights, thereby saving time main train station. Visitors arriving big Maestrani chocolate factory. and money. Train travelers are virtu- by auto can park on the street or at a (“Schoggi” is the Swiss diminutive ally bound to the center. nearby public garage. for “chocolate.”) Follow a free self- Guestrooms in mid-priced two Daily rates: Singles CHF 95-125, guided tour along the factory’s Visi- and three-star hotels all have tele- doubles CHF 135-145 tors Gallery (weekdays are best, phone and television; many have Contact: Hotel am Ring, Unterer when the machines are running) or a Internet connections, but none are Graben 9, 9000 St. Gallen, tel. +41/ guided walking tour, with chocolate air conditioned. At the four-star lev- 71-223-27-47, fax 222-83-87, tasting, every Wednesday afternoon, el, prices are of course higher, but [email protected], March through November. The fac- there are more amenities such as air www.hotelamring.ch tory-outlet shop sells a huge variety conditioning, mini-bars, and coffee- Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE 15/20 of high-quality chocolate at favor- makers (although the rooms them- Hotel DOM able prices. (Schoggiland, Toggen- selves may not be any larger than in burgersrasse 41, 9230 Flawil, tel. lower-priced hotels). Hotel bills can It’s an easy walk to St. Gallen’s +41/71-228-38-88, fax 228-38-00, often be settled in both euros and major sights from the modern, three- [email protected], www.schoggi- Swiss francs. star DOM, in the heart of the Alts- land.ch) tadt. The 41 rooms are bright, spot- Hotel am Ring lessly clean, and almost monastically St. Gallen Hotels This small, romantic, old-Vien- simple, with plain white walls deco- It can’t be sugarcoated, at current na-style hotel has only 10 rooms (13 rated with modern art. There is an exchange rates, hotels in Switzerland beds), so booking in advance is a elevator, and free but limited park- are expensive when compared with necessity, says the friendly ’S ing in the courtyard (reserve ahead). the rest of Europe. Guestrooms in owner, a fluent, English- EDITOR The breakfast buffet is in the the center of the city generally cost CHOICE speaking woman with a sleek self-service dining room on the more (and are often smaller) than healthy sense of humor, who has run ground floor, which is also a public those outside the center. If you’re this popular hotel for 32 years. restaurant (Mon.-Fri. 6:30am-5pm, traveling by car, parking in town can Entering the building is a bit like Saturday 7am-5pm), with a special be expensive. The trade-off is conve- stepping back into the 19th century. all-you-can eat brunch on Sunday nience; in the center visitors can Each guestroom is different, filled (10am-2pm, CHF 26/person). with antiques and decorative tex- Key Websites for the Traveler Locals laud the DOM’s policy of • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travel- tiles, including bed linens hand- hiring the disabled. embroidered by the proprietress. ers to Germanic Europe, including car rental, Daily rates: Singles CHF 140-155, rail passes, hotel bookings, traveler feedback, Every room has one or more doubles CHF 205; kids under 12 free. travel tips, and past issues (free access to stained-glass window, and oriental back issues for subscribers; see log-on info on Contact: Hotel DOM, Webergasse rugs are scattered throughout the page 2). 22, 9001 St. Gallen, tel. +41/71-227- • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin data- narrow halls. Most rooms include a 71-71, fax 227-71-72, base of hotels and restaurants, plus great separate, ornate, custom-made por- interactive trip planning tools [email protected], celain sink and mirror as well as a • www.travelessentials.com Guidebooks, www.hoteldom.ch maps, travel accessories, luggage, all at 10 small en suite stall for toilet and Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 9/20 percent off for subscribers. Use discount code shower (one room has a large full gemut2008. bath), obvious recent additions to Hotel Vadian • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent- this Jugendstil-era building. flyer forums make this a must for air travelers Just steps from the cathedral, the • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en Ger- The stairs from the tiny lobby are two-star Vadian offers 20 modern man rail website, with train schedules steep (there’s no elevator). “We guest rooms accessible by elevator. throughout Europe, as well as Germany don’t have a fitness center,” laughed They are simple but clean, with • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and white walls and pale wood floors. European rail schedules the landlady, “but our stairs will • www.ski-europe.com Top Web resource keep you in good shape.” Some are small, so you may want to for skiers with much data on Alpine resorts A generous buffet is served in the request one of the larger rooms. • www.myswitzerland.com Website of richly decorated breakfast room, Breakfast is served in a light, pleas- Switzerland’s national tourist authority which looks more like an over- ant room, and parking is available • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s for CHF 8/day (reserve ahead). national tourist authority stocked antique shop than a small • www.austria.info/us Austria’s nation- hotel. Every surface is covered with The hotel is alcohol-free and a al tourist authority decorative objects from earlier times, member of the International Organi- • www.historicgermany.com Website for and at least a dozen glass chande- zation of Christian Hotels. an alliance of historic German cities liers hang from the ceiling. • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on electronics Daily Rates: Singles CHF 96-115, for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. Am Ring is centrally located, an doubles 150-190, lower rates for

Gemütlichkeit 4 September 2008 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com room with sink in the room but garnished main dish (CHF 15-19). 3.50-5 for the same volume of soft shared toilet and bath in the hall. Daily rates: Singles CHF 195-225, drinks or bottled water; and at least Contact: Hotel Vadian, Gal- doubles CHF 270 (but lower prices CHF 3 for a cup of coffee. Prices for lusstrasse 36, 9000 St. Gallen, tel. sometimes available online) drinks at restaurants are often con- +41/71-228-18-78, fax 228-18-79, Contact: Hotel Walhalla St. Gallen, siderably higher. [email protected], www.hotel- Bahnhofplatz, 9001 St. Gallen, tel. Note: Switzerland still allows vadian.com +41/71-228-28-00, fax 228-28-90, smoking in restaurants and bars. Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 9/20 [email protected], Even if you are seated at a “non- Hotel Walhalla St. Gallen www.hotelwalhalla.ch smoking table,” it might be near a “smoking” table. Your options are to This member of the Best West- Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 9/20 move, sit outdoors, or find another ern group is across from the main St. Gallen Restaurants restaurant. rail station and thus convenient for This is a city that likes to eat well: train travelers, but only a couple local cheeses (in fondue, raclette, Zum Goldenen Schäfli of blocks from the edge of the his- and ); its own succulent Ol- An iron sign displaying a golden toric city center. Though the 56- mabratwurst sausages; Rösti; lamb hangs over the entrance S room Walhalla is in an ugly, gray ’ Chäschüechli (savory cheese tarts); to this popular “first-floor EDITOR seven-story building, its interior HOICE and Biberli (-filled honey- restaurant” in a 15th century C has been nicely renovated, and the spice cookies) are among the tradi- butchers’ guild house. Known for its staff is friendly and accommodat- tional specialties you’ll find at res- old-world decor and careful prepa- ing. The relatively small guest taurants, cafes, taverns, pastry ration of local dishes, Zum Goldenen rooms are “modern functional” shops, and street stands. Schäfli attracts a wide range of fol- with large beds (even in single lowers from prominent local politi- rooms), wood floors, a desk and St. Gallen is especially known for cians to visiting tourists. chair, armchair, and an espresso its Erststockbeizli—”first-floor restau- machine. All are nonsmoking—not rants”—located on the first story “Specialties from Grandmother’s always the case in Switzerland, above ground level in old buildings Kitchen”—such as Spätzle nach where smoking in many public in or near the medieval city center. Grossmutter-Art, tiny dumplings places is still permitted. Originally the houses in St. Gallen with ham, tomatoes, , and were constructed on soft ground and cream (CHF 18.50) and grilled pork At CHF 25-30/day, parking is often had to be supported by wood- steak with asparagus risotto (CHF pricey (reserve in advance). en poles. The ground-floor rooms on 25)— are among the featured dishes. A copious breakfast buffet is the narrow streets were dark and This is also the place for organ served in the restaurant, which is damp, so the best room of the house meats, such as liver and kidney. The open daily for all meals from was built on the first story, where it menu also offers a selection of sa- 6:30am-11pm. Lunch and dinner overlooked the street and had more vory soups (CHF 9.50-10.50); a vari- menus feature Tuscan specialties: light. Later some of these private ety of salads and appetizers (most soups, salads, and appetizers (CHF parlors in historic buildings were around CHF 15); several meat or fish 8-28); pasta and pizzas (CHF 10.50- converted into cozy restaurants main dishes (CHF 23-54), with small- 29); and garnished main dishes characterized by dark wood panel- er, less expensive portions available; (CHF 20-48). Most can be ordered in ing, low ceilings with exposed vegetarian meals (CHF 19-28); inter- two sizes—as a smaller (and lower- wooden beams, and slightly sloping esting (CHF 9.50-17.50); and priced) starter or as a full portion. floors made of wide wooden planks. an extensive wine list. The Sunday breakfast buffet is popu- Today, they’re among the best places Open Monday-Saturday 11am- lar with older locals, who spend the to eat well-prepared typical St. 2:30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sunday morning reading newspapers and Gallen cuisine—a secret that locals 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-11pm. lingering over coffee or cappuccino. gladly share with visitors. Contact: Zum Goldenen Schäfli, The hotel’s next door brasserie Restaurant prices range from Metzgergasse 5, 9000 St. Gallen, offers several on tap, along budget to stratosphere, and you can tel.+41/71-223-37-37, fax 223-70-45, with a variety of salads, including find an eatery for almost every taste. [email protected], several made with Swiss smoked At most full-service restaurants, www.zumgoldenenschaefli.ch sausages and local cheeses (CHF 12- main-dish portions are very large. Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 12/20 21); soups (CHF 5-10); classic Swiss Many restaurant menus list whole Rösti (grated-and-fried potato pan- portions at full price and a smaller Weinstube zum Bäumli cake) with ham, cheese, and fried portion of the same dish for fewer Another well known “first-floor egg (CHF 16); grilled meats (CHF 16- francs. As elsewhere in Europe, restaurant,” the Bäumli serves tradi- 33); and vegetarian dishes (CHF 11- drinks are expensive: even at small tional local foods in a woody old 21). The two-course daily lunch spe- cafes and street stands, expect to pay building in the city center. Among cial features a soup or and a CHF 5-7 for a half-liter of beer, CHF Gemütlichkeit 5 September 2008 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com the favorites are such “Klassiker Bäu- Zum Goldenen Leuen is Biber (or Biberli)—soft honey-spice mige” dishes as fresh calf’s liver with No one goes hungry at the cookies filled with marzipan and Rösti, and Geschnetzeltes, bits of sau- “Golden Lion.” The gemütlich atmo- made in several shapes (hearts, téed veal in cream sauce (CHF 30-37). sphere within this 400-year-old, bears, etc.), or formed in special The grilled Olmabratwurst is juicy half-timbered building seems a per- molds that create beautiful designs but not fatty (CHF 12.80); an accom- fect fit for the hearty beer-tavern on top. Find these and other St. paniment of Rösti the size of a din- fare and the Leuen’s own “huus- Gallen temptations at Confiserie Rog- ner plate is an additional CHF 7. braui”-label microbrews. Don’t miss gwiller, an elegant pastry shop and Other grilled-meat specialties in- the famous Chäschüechli (cheese tea room in the Altstadt (Multergasse clude several steaks (veal, beef, cake), rich, round, individual cheese 17, www.roggwiller.ch). Or go to horse) with herbed and sea- tarts—plain, with mushrooms, or Beck-Beck bakery and pastry shops at sonal vegetables (CHF 32-43). Add a flavored with bacon, onions, and several locations (Multergasse 18, selection of potato dishes or pasta garlic (CHF 4.10-4.30). One of these Langasse 7a, and Bruggwaldstrasse 1) savory tarts is the perfect accompa- for CHF 7 more. for another good selection of St. niment to any of the half dozen or Gallen cookies, cakes, and pastries, The wine bar on the ground floor so kinds of fresh draught beer (CHF including Biberli and Birnweggen, a is pleasant for tasting Swiss vintag- 6.2/half-liter, smaller portions Swiss pastry similar to a large Fig es. When the weather is pretty, sit at served, too). an outdoor table on the cobblestone Newton (www.biberhus.ch). pedestrian street and watch the Other menu selections include world go by. Very friendly staff. green salads (CHF 7-10) and main- MUNICH dish salads full of meat and cheese Continued from page 1 Open daily, 10am-11pm, closed (CHF 18-19); meaty sandwiches on a during all of July. choice of buns (CHF 7-13.50); and a be pointed out that, though beer is the main attraction, these are not Contact: Weinstube zum Bäumli, different daily special—in small, places to get drunk and rowdy. Schmiedgasse 18, 9000 St. Gallen, tel. medium, or large portions—Monday They’re tree-shaded gardens where +41/71-222-11-74, fax 222-14-33. through Saturday (CHF 10.50-25). Germans go to relax with friends Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 12/20 Open Mon.-Thurs., 9am-mid- and family, sip a freshly brewed MIGROS night; Fri. 9am-1am; Sat. 9am-6pm. beer, discuss the news, gossip, and At the other end of the price Contact: Zum Goldenen Leuen, reminisce. scale, one can eat well at MIGROS Schmiedgasse 30, 9004 St. Gallen, At most beer gardens (and at the self-service restaurants in several tel. +41/71-222-02-62, fax 230-34-64 annual Oktoberfest), beer is tradi- St. Gallen locations (and through- Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 13/20 tionally served in a one-liter glass or out Switzerland). A subsidiary of Don’t leave St. Gallen without stoneware mug, known as a Massk- the giant MIGROS supermarket tasting the local Olmabratwurst, rug (tankard) or simply Mass (a chain, these basic restaurants offer grilled thick veal-and-pork sausages “measure”). However, Wiessbier or fresh, well-prepared food (some of served at street stands “mit Bürli” Weizenbier (white beer, brewed with it “BIO,” i.e., organic) at reason- (in a crusty bun) or in restaurants wheat) is almost always served in able prices. with a side dish of Rösti. Join the special tall, half-liter glasses, narrow at the bottom and bulbous at the top. The MIGROS on the first floor of queue at the outdoor counter of Other types of beer can be ordered St. Gallen’s rail station serves up a Metzgerei Gemperli, on the corner by the half-liter, considered a “small soup of the day (CHF 2.20); a salad of Schmiedgasse and Webergasse in beer” by beer-loving Bavarians. buffet (CHF 2.60/100grams); large the Altstadt, to buy Olmabratwurst— slices of thick pizza and quiche (CHF and other classic local sausage— hot Many restaurants and taverns 3.60); sandwiches (CHF 3-6); hot from the grill. Or try the excellent specialize in beer from just one of foods such as Spätzle, Schnitzel, and sausages at Reitmann Traiteur Munich’s six big breweries: August- Bratwurst with side dishes (CHF 8- (Marktgasse 3). “Just don’t order iner, Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbräu, Lö- 15); and desserts (CHF 2-4)—all in a or ketchup with them, or wenbräu, Paulaner, or Spaten-Fran- large, modern, self-service restaurant. you’ll identify yourself as a tourist,” ziskaner. Others are outlets for ex- There’s even an outdoor terrace. advises a local resident. cellent beers brewed elsewhere in : Ayinger, Andechser, Open Mon.-Fri. 7am-11pm, Sat. Cheese fondue is another classic Schneider. Most are decorated in Swiss dish that is especially good in 8am-4pm, Sun. 9am-2pm. typical Bavarian style, with rustic cool weather. Try Fondue Beizli Contact: MIGROS, Hauptbahnhof wooden tables and chairs, wooden Neueck (Brühlgasse 26) or Fondue (first floor), Bahnhofplatz, 9001 St. wainscoting, blue-and-white linens Silvesterschlaus (Sonnenstrasse 5). Gallen (and other locations) (the colors of the Bavarian flag), and Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 16/20 For those with a sweet tooth, waitresses in dirndls. another “must-taste” local specialty Gemütlichkeit 6 September 2008 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com The several restaurants associat- Stammhaus zum Augustiner—beer found at Augustiner am Dom, next ed with the Augustiner brewery are hall, restaurant, and beer garden, to the landmark Frauenkirche down- known for good food. My favorite Neuhauser Strasse 27, on the pedes- town. Daily lunch specials are E5.90-

(and that of many Münchners) ’S trian street; tel: 23-183-257; to 7.70, and other main dishes range Augustiner Grossgast- E is the EDITOR www.augustiner-restaurant.com; from 5.50-14. Choose something stätten in the pedestrian CHOICE daily 10am – midnight.) from the large selection of sausage zone between the Marienplatz and Other Augustiner establishments plates, for which the restaurant is E Karlstor/Stacchus, and easily identi- are also held in high regard, and two well known ( 6-10.50). (Augustiner fied by the many outdoor tables (in of them are among Munich’s largest am Dom, Frauenplatz 8; tel: 23-23- good weather) and the name “Au- beer gardens. Don’t let that deter 84-80; www.augustineramdom.de; gustiner Bräu Ausschank” in old- you, however, the food, beer, and daily 10am - midnight) fashioned lettering on the beer-hall ambience are typical Münchner, and Nearby Andechser am Dom fea- side of the stone building. The interi- you’re far more likely to be sitting tures beer from the Kloster Andechs or is almost grand with a worn but next to a table of Bavarians than a brewery south of Munich. Known ageless elegance defined by high tour group. for its cuisine and rich decor, the vaulted ceilings, dark wood panel- The Augustinerkeller, one of restaurant serves up such dishes as ing and furnishings, and walls hung potato-mushroom cream soup (E4), with antlers and faded prints of Ba- central Munich’s most attractive beer gardens, has seating for as many as roast duck with red cabbage and varian scenes. E 5,000. For a summer snack (enough potato dumplings ( 14.50), and clas- The lengthy menu offers tradi- for a light meal), try the Radi-teller, a sic Bavarian Dampfnudel (steamed tional Munich dishes such as grilled large white radish thinly cut into a yeast dumpling) with sauce E Bratwurst (pork sausages) with tumbling spiral, rye spread ( 4.50). (Andechser am Dom, Wein- mashed potatoes and vegetables strasse 7a, tel: 29-84-81; E with butter, sprinkled with chopped ( 6); Sauerbraten (marinated, pot- chives, and paper-thin cured ham www.andechseramdom.de; daily roasted beef) with red cabbage and E 10am – midnight) E ( 8.50). Or go for the Obatzda, a Ba- bread dumplings ( 12); and grilled varian specialty of camembert-style Munich’s Hofbräuhaus is surely Schweinehaxe (pork knuckles or cheese, butter, onions, and paprika, the world’s most famous beer ’S hocks) with potato dumplings and all mashed together and spread on hall. Founded as a brewery EDITOR E HOICE sauerkraut ( 13); as well as daily bread (E6.80). Other traditional Ba- for the royal court in 1589, C specials, both meat and vegetarian E varian dishes, both hot and cold, today it attracts tourists from around ( 6-12). The menu also lists five round out the menu, with plenty of the globe. But many Münchners enjoy kinds of soup (E2.70-3.80); light, cold E choices for different tastes and bud- going there, too. The ground floor is dishes, including several salads ( 5- gets (E7-12). As in any beer garden, noisy and boisterous, with an 11); sausage and cheese platters if the weather turns bad just retreat oompah band, foaming beer served in (E4.50-9); smaller portion meals “for E to the indoor section, a dry haven liter mugs, and more foreigners than seniors and children” ( 3.65-9); and from any passing storm. (August- locals. To avoid the hustle and bustle, five types of Bavarian desserts E inerkeller, Arnulfstrasse 52; tel: 59- ascend the wide stone staircase to the ( 2.60-8), in addition to a separate 43-93; daily 10am – 1am) first floor, where it is much quieter, menu for ice cream concoctions. with warm wooden wainscoting, Look for seasonal specials such as With room for 8,000 people, Königlicher Hirschgarten (Royal intimate alcoves, white linens, friend- fresh asparagus in May and June ly waitstaff, and locals reading news- and wild game in autumn and win- Deer Garden) is probably Europe’s largest beer garden. Even so, its papers while sipping a beer. There’s ter. Augustiner beers, both Helles also a pleasant garden in the build- (pale) and Dunkles (dark), are, of rambling spaces, shaded by tower- E ing chestnut trees, feel much small- ing’s courtyard. The reasonably- course, fresh from the tap ( 3.10 for priced menu offers a good selection of half-liter, E6.20 for one-liter). er. There is also a cozy indoor res- taurant. Several food stands offer well-prepared Bavarian dishes: soups E E The adjacent “Augustiner Res- typical Bavarian fare, including the ( 2.60-3.60); salads ( 2.30-9); cheese E taurant” (separate front entrance to popular Steckerlfisch, grilled whole and sausage cold platters ( 5-9); hot the building) has the same menu and fish on a stick. The nearly 100-acre sausage specialties from the restau- E same prices, with the meals served park, a former hunting ground for rant’s own butcher ( 4.40-7.30); main E in dining rooms more upscale in the nobility, contains a large dishes ( 5-11); several classic Bavari- E decor: white table linens, fancier fenced enclosure for a herd of an desserts ( 3.20-4.80); and excellent E light fixtures and ceilings. Seating is friendly deer. (Königlicher Hir- Hofbräu beer ( 6.60 per liter). (Hof- also available in an enclosed court- schgarten, Hirschgarten 1; tel: 17- bräuhaus, Platzl 9; tel: 290-13-60; yard resplendent with baroque and 999-119; www.hirschgarten.de; www.hofbrauhaus.net; daily 9am – rococo decorations. (Augustiner daily 10am – 11pm) 11pm) Grossgaststätten—also known as More fine draught beer can be It’s a Munich tradition to eat a

Gemütlichkeit 7 September 2008 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com mid-morning “second breakfast” of beer (E6 per liter). The adjacent self- the breakfast buffet staff. Maybe it Weisswurst (fresh white veal-and- service restaurant offers daily spe- was just a bad day for some. pork sausage) with sweet Bavarian cials such as rotisserie chicken with It was not bad enough to write mustard, soft , and a glass of french fries, and pasta with fresh E the Kraft off altogether, but it caused Weissbier (or Weizenbier). Some of the vegetables ( 5.20-7), along with cof- us to consider other nearby alterna- city’s best white sausages are to be fee, , and other sweets. tives (e.g., the nearby Hotel Ex- found at Weisses Bräuhaus, which (Tierpark Hellabrunn, Tierpark- quisit, www.hotel-exquisit.com). also serves its own Schneider brand strasse 30; tel: 62-52-80; STEPHEN UNKS of wheat beer. (Weisses Bräuhaus, www.tierpark-hellabrunn.de; daily, VIA EMAIL Tal 7; tel: 290-13-80; www.weisses- April – September 8am – 6pm; Octo- brauhaus.de; daily 8am – 1am) ber – March 9am – 5pm) (Editor’s Note: For many years we Another popular place for Weiss- Of course, the place to sample all have recommended the Kraft for its ex- wurst and Weissbier is Zum Spöck- six brands of Munich beer in one cellent value, good service, and conve- meier (Rosenstrasse 9; tel: 26-80-88; place is at the annual Oktoberfest, nient location. This is the first negative daily 9:30am – 1am). Note that most the world’s biggest beer bash. Quaff report received. Anybody else?) Munich restaurants serve Weisswurst liter mugs of the local brews inside Vienna Report only before noon, a holdover from the crowded beer tents with blaring Just a few words about our re- the days before refrigeration when oompah bands, or sit outdoors at cent visit to Vienna. Actually, it was fresh sausages had to be eaten before somewhat quieter tables and bench- my 25th visit, but we stayed at a they spoiled. es. Join other merrymakers in help- different hotel, which was really ing to drink an estimated six million The beer garden at the center of great, the Erzherzog Rainer (Wied- liters of beer at this year’s 175th Ok- the Viktualienmarkt, the city’s col- ner Hauptstrasse 27-29, http:// toberfest, September 20 – October 5, orful open-air food market, is a place rainer.schick-hotels.com). It is on the 2008. (Oktoberfest, Theresienwiese; to relax from shopping or sightsee- street car line, and only a few blocks www.oktoberfest.de; daily 10am – ing. Every six weeks draught beer from the subway. I cannot praise this 11:30pm) from a different Munich brewery is hotel enough, the rooms were nice, featured. Try the potato soup with And finally, you can indulge in the breakfast was wonderful, and all sausage and bacon cubes (E3.40); one last glass of fresh Bavarian beer the staff was extremely helpful and roast pork with potato dumplings while waiting for your flight to de- friendly. Our rate was E99 per day, and cabbage salad (E9); or a portion part Munich Airport. Airbräu is the which was a senior rate. We called of Obatzda cheese spread (E5). (Bier- first microbrewery established at a the hotel directly to make the reser- garten am Viktualienmarkt, Viktual- European airport (in 1999). Drink vation, as most hotel booking web ienmarkt 9; tel: 29-75-45; Monday – unfiltered Helles, Weissbier, or sea- sites rates quote higher for this hotel. Saturday 9am – 11pm; in winter 9am sonal beers indoors at the brewery Our second recommendation is – 6pm; closed on holidays) tavern or outdoors in the adjacent the Restaurant Plachutta. They do beer garden. The brewery’s restau- Munich’s Englischer Garten, have several locations in Vienna, but rant offers a selection of Bavarian along the Isar River, one of the we visited the one at Wollzeile 38, dishes (E5-15) for a final taste of world’s largest urban public parks, and really enjoyed the evening. The south . (Airbräu, holds four beer gardens, including a food and the wine were both excel- located between Terminals 1 and 2; popular restaurant and beer garden lent, and the service superb. The tel: 975-93-111; www.airbraeu.de; at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tafelspitz was the best I have ever daily 10am – 1am) Tower, a wooden pagoda built in eaten, and I have enjoyed this spe- 1790) and the Seehaus on the shore Readers’ Forum cialty in many restaurants in Vienna. of the Kleinhesseloher Lake. (Bier- The phone number is 01/512 15 77, garten am Chinesischer Turm; En- Rethinking the Kraft and reservations are recommended. glischer Garten 3; tel: 38-38-730; dai- We have stayed several times at I am a longtime subscriber to ly 10am – midnight, shorter hours in Munich’s Hotel Kraft and found it Gemütlichkeit, and enjoy every issue. winter. Seehaus im Englischer Gar- to be both pleasant and well situated ANNA MANDL ten, Kleinhesselohe 3; tel: 38-16-130; for our purposes. On our most re- VIA EMAIL daily 10am–1am) cent stay, however, we were given a Readers’ Forum is a way to share Visitors to Tierpark Hellabrunn, tiny, cramped room (perhaps we should have voiced an objection, but travel experiences with other readers. Munich’s excellent zoo, should plan Email your recommendations and warn- to have lunch in the zoo’s beer gar- I recall there being "no other rooms available at the moment"). Beyond ing to [email protected] or send via regu- den or restaurant. Outdoor stands lar mail to 288 Ridge Rd., Ashland OR sell sausages, sauerkraut, fried pota- that, the formerly friendly atmo- sphere seemed to have dissipated 97520. Please include related prices, toes, and soft drinks, as well as huge email addresses, web addresses, street E somewhat, particularly with some of yeasty pretzels ( 3) and Augustiner addresses, phone numbers, etc.

Gemütlichkeit 8 September 2008