©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Lower

Why Go? Surrounding on all sides, is a cradle The Valley . . . 111 of Austrian culture. The region off ers visitors one of the an der Donau . 112 country’s most lively cultural landscapes, a strong range of Dürnstein ...... 116 outdoor activities and at Carnuntum a glimpse into the age Melk & Around ...... 120 of the Romans. St Pölten ...... 124 The world-renowned Danube River (Donau) and its val- ley is a place of magnifi cent natural beauty and cultural Carnuntum ...... 128 achievement. The , which stretches between Melk Wienerwald ...... 130 and , is the prettiest section and truly a Baden bei Wien . . . . . 131 European highlight for its wines, castles, abbeys and medi- Wiener Neustadt . . . . 134 eval villages. The north is an often neglected region of rich pastures, forested glens and pretty vineyards set upon gentle, rolling Best Places to Eat hills, lending itself to day trips from Vienna and touring. The region directly surrounding Vienna in the west and » Filmbar im Kesselhaus south forms the Wienerwald (), and further (p 113 ) southwest the mountains are ideal for hikes or riding the » Mörwald Kloster Und (p113 ) world-famous Semmeringbahn (Semmering Railway). » Restaurant zur Traube (p 115 ) » Restaurant Loibnerhof When to Go (p 117 ) The best time to visit Lower Austria is during the April to » Brod (p 135 ) October warm season, when the Wachau is often bathed in a soft light and you can make the most of the Danube River Best Places to and its sights and activities. The shoulder season periods Stay (April to May and September to October) are quieter. Au- tumn is the best time to enjoy wine in the Wachau, and from » Restaurant & Hotel 11 November (St Martin’s Day) each year semifermented Schloss Grafenegg (p115 ) young wine is sold in open-topped bottles. Between Novem- » Arte Hotel Krems (p112 ) ber and April many sights are closed, but winter sport in the » Hotel Schloss Dürnstein mountains around Semmering comes into its own. (p 116 ) » Hotel Nibelungenhof (p121 ) » Panorama Hotel Wagner (p 136 ) Wine Experiences MEDIEVAL & 109 The predominantly white wines of the Wachau complement LOW KEY perfectly the region’s magnifi cent landscapes and excellent Drosendorf (p 122 ), a local foods. One way to enjoy the fruits of the vineyards is to far-fl ung village with visit a Heuriger (vineyard wine tavern). The Heurigen open Austria’s only intact on a rotating basis, and tourist offi ces (and many hotels) medieval town wall, stock a local calendar listing the opening dates for each one. and the Nationalpark A highlight of the wine calendar is 11 November (St Martin’s Thayatal (p 123 ), are Day), when the new wine, known as Sturm, is traditionally two low-key places released and drunk semifermented. where you can escape The Weinstrasse Kamptal (Kamptal Wine Rd), run- the summer crowds, ning north from Krems through the Valley, is more right on the Czech low key than the Wachau and has lots of vineyards. In border. Krems the Weingut der Stadt Krems (p112 ) also has tast- ings; in at the Loisium Weinwelt (p123 ) you can walk through ancient cellars or take wine treatments; and Schloss Grafenegg (p 115) has wine tastings at its Best Concert Vinothegg wine bar. For restaurants, try inexpensive Jell Location (p113 ) in Krems or the more upmarket Mörwald Kloster Und (p113 ) and Restaurant zur Traube (p115 ). The best place to enjoy a concert in Lower Austria is in the parks and gardens DON’T MISS of Schloss Grafenegg (www.grafenegg.at; p 115 ). The Wachau , the section of the Danube Valley between A 15-metre Cloud Tower Krems an der Donau and Melk, is one of the world’s open-air stage is situated in great cultural landscapes. A ride or drive along the val- the grounds, with seating for ley will take you past castle ruins, baroque churches over 1700 spectators. and some stunning scenery. Stift Melk, at the western end of the Wachau, is eas- Transport ily the most spectacular and celebrated of the abbeys in this Unesco Cultural Heritage region. It dates back to Planning the 11th century and was later reshaped into a baroque Use the ÖBB (www.oebb.at) masterpiece, with frescoes by Paul Troger and Johann and Postbus (www.postbus. Michael Rottmayr. A nice way to get there is by bicycle at) websites to plan your or on one of the regular ferries from Krems. travel. Bus services often reduce to a trickle or dry up altogether on a Sunday, Hikes & Rides so plan travelling to more remote places during the » Wachau Cycling a stretch of the Wachau between Krems week. and Melk or taking a Danube boat trip is a great way to soak up the scenery. Resources » Schneeberg Lower Austria’s highest mountain can be hiked or enjoyed on a ride on the cogwheel railway. » Das Land Niederöster- » Petronell-Carnuntum to Hainburg Cycling from reich (www.noe.gv.at) Facts Petronell-Carnuntum to Hainburg is the best way to take in and figures. the Romans. » Lower Austria (www. » Schlossbergweg After visiting the ruins of Kuenringer- lower-austria.info) Food, burg, hike the Schlossbergweg to Fesselhütte. culture and outdoor themes. » Semmeringbahn The railway can be enjoyed not only » Schneebergbahn (www. from the inside – walking trails abound in the region. schneebergbahn.at) Cog- wheel railway.