Original Scientific Article

Inventing in the Naval Port: The Case of the Islands during the Habsburg Empire

Nataša Urošević Juraj Dobrila University of , [email protected]

The present paper presents the results of the archival and field research conducted in the framework of the author’s research project ‘Valorisation of the common Eu- ropean heritage of Pula as the former main Austrian naval port and Brijuni Islands as an elite resort’ in Austrian archives, with the focus on the Kupelwieser Collection kept in the Austrian National Library. The research aimed to offer a new perspective in the elaboration of the key initial phases of the development of modern tourism on the Brijuni Islands, by analysing their important function as an aristocratic residence near the main naval port in a comparative and transnational framework. The main research question was whether Brijuni followed a European model of development of an aristocratic resort near a major port. Combining archival and field research, the author has explored and compared some of the well-known island aristocratic residences in and the Mediterranean, which developed as popular seaside re- sorts in the 19th and 20th centuries, such as the Isle of Wight, Mallorca, , and Brijuni. An overview of the available recent theoretical literature provided compar- ative insights into the search for such a model of the successful symbiosis of resorts and ports. As a case study, the author analysed the development of tourism on the Brijuni Islands in the most dynamic and dramatic periods before, during, and af- ter the First World War, bearing in mind their importance as an elite resort in close proximity to Pula as the former main Austrian (Austro-Hungarian) naval port. Keywords: aristocratic residences, resorts, ports, Brijuni, Pula, tourism history https://doi.org/10.26493/2335-4194.12.31-40

Introduction and Brijuni stagnated, wanting for new development The European Year of Cultural Heritage and the com- opportunities. The purpose of this paper is to present memoration of the end of were an op- the results of the archival and field research conducted portunity to reflect on the importance of Pula as the in Austrian archives in the framework of the author’s former main Austro-Hungarian naval port and the research project ‘Valorisation of the common Euro- nearby Brijuni Islands as an elite aristocratic resort. pean heritage of Pula as the former main Austrian Because of their strategically crucial geopolitical po- naval port and Brijuni Islands as an elite resort,’ with sition, Pula and the Brijuni Islands had a particularly the focus on the Kupelwieser Collection, kept in the significant role in modern European cultural, political, Austrian National Library. The research aimed to offer diplomatic, and tourism history. After they had lost a new perspective in the elaboration of the key initial their key function and strategic role in the broader phase of the modern tourist development on the Bri- Central European and Mediterranean context, Pula juni Islands, by analysing their important function as

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an aristocratic residence near the main naval port in a chorage for the Austrian fleet. In such circumstances, comparative and transnational framework. The main it was quite unusual that on August 15th 1893, the Vien- research question was whether Brijuni followed a Eu- nese industrialist and steel magnate Paul Kupelwieser ropean model of development of an aristocratic resort bought these uninhabited malaria-ridden islands at near a major port. An overview of the available recent the entrance to the leading Austrian naval port of Pula. theoretical literature provided comparative insights Twenty years later, on the eve of the World War I, the into the search for such a model of the successful sym- Brijuni Islands had been transformed into an elegant biosis of resorts and ports. As a case study, the author health resort, a world-renowned élite seaside destina- analysed the development of tourism on the Brijuni Is- tion, an exclusive meeting place for the European aris- lands in the most dynamic and dramatic period before, tocracy, artists, and financial magnates, a symbol of during and after the First World War, bearing in mind cultivated relaxation, and a unique blend of nature and their importance as an elite resort in close proximity to culture.TheBrijuniArchipelagocametobeknownas Pula as the former main Austrian (Austro-Hungarian) a Mediterranean paradise at the foot of the Alps, a naval port. pearl of the Austrian Riviera, and an oasis of peace Fromthevaluablearchivematerialandrarecollec- (Urošević, 2014). tions kept in the archives in (Österreichische Thanks to the frequent visits and extended stays Nationalbibliothek [Austrian National Library] and of the Habsburg imperial family, close relations with Staatsarchiv [State Archiv]) and Graz (Landesarchiv the top industrial and military circles, and good mar- [Provincial Archive] and Landesbiblitohek [Provincial itime and railway connections with European capitals, Library]), it is possible to read an exciting story of an shortly before the First World War, Brijuni developed unknown part of the history of Brijuni.1 In addition into a focal point of social life on the Austrian Riviera, to the 161 folders full of interesting rare photos and and an unique hub of technological and tourism inno- illustrations, letters, business plans and documents, vations. As an Austrian counterpart to other promi- the Kupelwieser Collection also contains unpublished nent Mediterranean rivieras and resorts, Brijuni also partsoftheautobiographyoftheownerofBrijuni, had an extraordinarily important political, military in which Paul Kupelwieser describes in detail the cir- and diplomatic function as an elite resort and cultural cumstances that led to his conflict with the Crown centre near the main naval port. Prince Franz Ferdinand, who was so enchanted by the The period of intensive modernisation, industri- islands after his first visit that he wanted to take them alisation and urbanisation in southern , which over from the owner at any price and build a perma- started after the opening of the Arsenal in Pula in 18562 nent residence there. and which was accompanied at the turn of the cen- tury by the development of tourism in Pula and on the Inventing Tourism in the Naval Port Brijuni Islands, was abruptly interrupted by the out- In 1850, Pula was selected as the site of the future most break of the Great War, during which Brijuni again important Austrian military harbour, which gave the acquired strategic importance in defending the mili- nearby Brijuni Islands a military function as well. Five tary harbour in Pula. The numerous forts on the is- fortifications were erected on Veli Brijun and two on lands were manned by crews, while the hotels served Mali Brijun, and the Fažana Channel served as an an- to accommodate Austrian officers. At the very peak of their development, after twenty years of intensive in-

1 This paper is result of the archival and field research, con- ducted in the framework of the author’s research project 2 It is interesting to note that Karl Marx dedicated to Pula, the ‘Valorisation of the common European heritage of Pula as importance of its port, and its arsenal two articles published the former main Austrian naval port and Brijuni Islands as in the New-York Daily Tribune in January and August 1857. an elite resort’ during the Richard Plaschka Fellowship of the See http://marxengels.public-archive.net/en/ME0988en Austrian Ministry of Research, Science and Economy. .html.

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vestments, their owner could have started returning that made the future emperor’s island residence so at- huge invested capital, the islands were affected by the tractive. dramatic warfare. It is evident that there are parallels and similarities Paul Kupelwieser described his life and entrepre- in the habits and practices of the European aristocracy neurial adventure in memoirs, published in 1918 (Ku- in creating residences in elite destinations, and that the pelwieser, 1918). He was 76 when he died in Vienna in Austrian court used the European models of best prac- 1919, exhausted by severe illness and post-war uncer- tice, both during the construction of naval ports and tainty. The documentation and correspondence pre- the development of elite tourist resorts in Central Eu- served in the collection of the rare manuscripts of the rope and the Mediterranean.4 Austrian National Library testify to the dramatic cir- It is also known that Austria’s ruling Habsburg cumstances in which his children took over the fam- family had a significant role in inventing and pro- ily business after the First World War, within a wholly moting the ‘Austrian Riviera’ (Baskar, 2010). Some of transformed geopolitical framework. An unpublished them were pioneers of tourism in the Mediterranean, part of Kupelwieser’s biography, kept in the same col- such as the Archduke Ludwig Salvator, who ‘discov- lection, contains interesting details about his problem- ered’ and popularised many island destinations like atic relationship with the most famous guest of the Bri- Mallorca during his Mediterranean cruises (Woerl, juni Islands, Crown Prince Franz Ferdinand, who was 1899). Obviously, Mallorca could be a model for the so enchanted by the islands after his first visit in July development of an exclusive archipelago resort, as one 1909 that he wished to build the permanent residence of the first ‘Mediterranean paradises,’ which success- there. In the following three years, he spent several fully attracted an elite aristocratic clientele and a cos- spring weeks on the islands where he completely cured mopolitan colony of artists and intellectuals (Walton, his chronic lung problems. Paul Kupelwieser took ad- 2005). vantage of his stay to launch a marketing campaign through the islands’ newspapers – Brioni Insel Zeitung, Resorts and Ports published from 1910 to 1914. Delighted by the islands’ An overview of the available recent theoretical litera- climate, and natural and cultural heritage, the Crown ture provides comparative insights in search of a Eu- Prince wanted to build a permanent residence there, ropean model of development of an aristocratic resi- which was a common habit among the European aris- dencenearthenavalport.ThemonographResorts and tocracy. About his intention, he informed the German Ports (Borsay & Walton, 2011), discusses the relation- Kaiser, who visited Brijuni during his trip from Venice ship between tourist resorts and seaports in the his- to his residence in Corfu3 in the spring of 1912. Ac- tory of tourism. In the introductory chapter, its editors cording to Kupelwieser, the Kaiser replied: ‘Lucky you! also mentioned a kind of symbiosis of functions of the You need only 12 hours to arrive at your paradise from leading British naval port in Portsmouth and the aris- Vienna, and I need 4 days to get to Corfu!’ (Kupel- tocratic resort on the Isle of Wight, a favourite sum- wiser, 1917, p. 362). In addition to the climatic benefits, mer residence of Queen Victoria (Blom, 2008), em- as well as the richness of natural and cultural heritage, phasising that ‘the Royal Navy offered a military spec- it was the proximity to the empire’s capital and its cen- tacletoholidaymakersatSouthseaorontheIsleof tral position in the region, near the main naval port Wight’ (Borsay & Walton, 2011, p. 4). Other mono- graphs, which emphasise the importance of compar- ative, transnational approaches in research on Euro- 3 German Kaiser Wilhelm ii purchased in 1907 the former pean resorts and ports (Zuelow, 2011; Borsay & Furnée, residence of the Empress of Austria , on Corfu, after her 1899 assassination by the Italian anarchist 2015) are also very useful. in . During Kaiser Wilhelm’s visits a great deal of diplomatic activity took place in Achilleion, and 4 About ‘cultural transfers’ between European spas see Borsay it became a hub of European diplomacy. and Furnée (2015) and Steward (2000).

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The above-mentioned archival research conducted the Italian Renaissance, Mallorca, Corfu, and Brijuni in the Austrian archives indicated that Pula was rep- were typical Mediterranean aristocratic destinations, resented in the Austrian newspapers at the end of the which developed as popular seaside resorts. Mallorca 19th and early 20th centuries as the ‘Austrian Ports- is the official holiday destination of the Spanish royal mouth’ and that the Brioni (Brijuni) Islands were com- family, and the invention of modern tourism on the pared and described as ‘even more beautiful than the Balearic Islands is linked to visits of aristocratic guests Isle of Wight.’ Rare collections in Austrian archives and artists. After the first famous guests, Chopin and keep old local newspapers, such as Die Steierische George Sand, who spent the winter of 1838/1939 in Alpen-Post from 8 July 1905, in which, in the article Valdemossa, in 1867 the Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Reisebriefe aus dem oesterreichischen Portsmouth by Austria arrived. Having initially acquired properties von Josef Steiner-Wischenbart Pula is compared with in medieval Miramar, between 1872 and 1901, he pur- the main British naval port, as the ‘Austrian Portsmou- chased the entire coastal strip between Valdemossa th’ (Steiner-Wischenbart, n.d.). In contrast, in many and Deià, and built an extensive network of paths and articles published in the first tourism magazines on the viewpoints, creating a true paradise on Mallorca. Adriatic, such as the Oesterreichische Riviera Zeitung Besides learning the local dialect, Ludwig Salvator and Adria, as well as in Karl Brockhausen’s (n.d.) study researched the islands’ flora and fauna, history and Brioni: Ein Kulturmärchen aus unseren Tagen, the Bri- culture, which resulted in the nine-volume mono- juni Islands were compared to the Isle of Wight. It is graph Die Balearen in Wort und Bild (The Balearic well-known that Austria, in the creation of its navy, Islands in Word and Image). For many decades, the used the best European practices, copying port infras- Archduke explored the Mediterranean with his fa- tructure and fortification architecture models from the mous yacht ‘Nixe.’ He preferred small and undiscov- most developed European navies and employing top ered regions and islands, such as Paxos and Antipaxos, experts, such as the admiral of the fleet, the Dane Hans Ithaka, Levkas and Zante in the as well Birch von Dahlerup, who chose Pula for the main Aus- as the Liparian Islands north of Sicily, the small is- trian naval port in 1850 (Scandinavians dominated lands Giglio, Ustica, and Alboran and especially the the corps of navy engineers throughout the 1850s), Balearic Islands Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza, and For- orthePoleViktorvonDomaszewski,thefirsturban- mentera (Woerl, 1899). A special congeniality of spirit ist of modern Pula, who, before the construction of connected the royal vagabond with Empress Elisabeth the port infrastructure, visited all European (British, (‘Sisi’), who held the educated archduke in high es- French, Dutch, and Russian) naval ports, including teem. She visited him twice with her yacht ‘Miramar’ Portsmouth, Plymouth, London, Liverpool, , and on Mallorca (see http://www.ludwigsalvator.com). Toulon (Balota, 2005). The landscape of the Serra de Tramuntana, pro- Looking for a model of an elite tourist destination tected in 2001 by unesco, holds the famous trail developmentnearthenavalport,apartfromarchival built by Ludwig Salvator, as well as a literary trail and field research, it is undoubtedly a very useful com- from Valldemossa to Pollença, which pays homage to parative overview of the development of similar des- George Sand and Robert Graves and the highly scenic tinations in Europe. Combining the aforementioned Sóller to Palma narrow-gauge historic railway. methods, the author has explored and compared some The Austrian empress, Elisabeth of Bavaria, built of the well-known aristocratic island residences in Eu- another very famous aristocratic residence on the Is- rope and the Mediterranean, which developed as pop- land of Corfu, after the tragic loss of her only son, ular seaside resorts in the 19th and 20th centuries, such CrownPrinceRudolfofAustria,in1889.TheAchillei- as the Isle of Wight, Mallorca, Corfu, and Brijuni. on Palace, inspired by , was Elisa- Unlike Queen Victoria’s summer residence in Os- beth’s favourite vacation place and summer residence, borne House, built in 1845 on the Isle of Wight, op- dedicated to her admiration for Greece, its language posite the naval port in Portsmouth, in the style of and its culture until her tragic death in 1899. After

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Elisabeth’s assassination, German Kaiser Wilhelm ii coast, with a six-page report on the islands’ beauty purchased Achilleion in 1907 and used it as a summer (Adria, February1910,pp.77–88).TheissuefromApril residence. Until 1914, many diplomatic activities took 1910 reported about A Year of Fulfilment (Adria, April place in the palace, and Achilleion became a hub of 1919, pp. 157–160) with an illustrated reportage and European diplomacy. During World War I, Achilleion the photo of the archduke with his wife on Brijuni. wasusedasamilitaryhospitalbyFrenchandSerbi- Finally,theissuefromJune1910reportedabouthis an troops (see https://www.habsburger.net/en/chapter activities during a two-month stay. Apart from treat- /achilleion-corfu-elisabeths-flight-antiquity). Briefly inglungproblemsandenjoyingthebeautyofnature reclaiming the status of the centre for European diplo- and peace, the crown prince was very interested in macy that it possessed during the Kaiser years, the studying the preservation of cultural monuments and Achilleion has been used in recent times for European learning about the cultural and economic develop- summits and as a . ment of the Austrian Riviera as well as in the nearby naval port. Almost every day he visited, by car or by Years of Fulfillment boat, the Istrian coast and the interior, from the sur- Aristocratic visits marked probably the most excit- roundings of Pula to Učka, including the opening of ing period of development and international recog- the Provincial Exhibition in Koper. In conclusion, the nition of Brijuni, from Easter 1910 to the beginning editors reported that he was so satisfied with his stay of the First World War, and can be traced through on Brijuni that he announced his intention to choose the preserved editions of the Brijuni Islands newspa- beautiful Istria as a permanent residence for the first pers. In addition to the first tourist magazines in the weeks of spring (Adria, June 1910, pp. 237–240). The Adriatic: the Illustrierte österreichische Riviera Zeitung issue of March 1911 briefly reports on his arrival to (1904–1905) and Adria, Illustrierte Monatsschrift für Brijuni with the whole family for another two-month Landes- und Volkskunde, Volkswirtschaft und Touris- stay. tik der adriatischen Küstenländer (1908–1914), the Bri- Another very valuable and useful source are mem- juni Islands had their own newspaper: Brioni Insel oirs of the Brijuni’s owner Paul Kupelwiser, Aus den Zeitung (1910–1914). The first issue of the islands’ Erinnerungen eines alten Österreichers (From the Mem- gazette, which was published in March 1910, reported oirs of an old Austrian), written in 1917 and published on the stay of Franz Ferdinand with his family on the in 1918 (Kupelwieser, 1918). It is fascinating to observe Brijuni Islands, and it is evident that the presence of that Kupelwieser’s memoirs end with the first visit of the imperial family was used to promote the desti- the crown prince, his imperial highness Franz Ferdi- nation (which was a frequent practice in other Euro- nand and his wife, the Duchess of Hohenberg. How- pean destinations visited by aristocracy). The newspa- ever, the original manuscript (actually a typoscript), per regularly reported, among other things, about the kept in four folders of the Kupelwieser Collection in stay of the emperor’s family, as well as other famous the Austrian National Library (Kupelwieser, 1917), also personalities, which can be traced through the list of include, an unpublished part, with much less well- guests published in each issue (see http://library.foi.hr/ known details related to the owner’s efforts to struggle novine). with nature, the state bureaucracy, and the military Another valuable source is the tourist magazine authorities. Particularly interesting and impressive are Adria, which reports about Franz Ferdinand’s visits to pages describing Franz Ferdinand’s attempts to take Brioni in several issues in 1910. After his first working over the islands and build a permanent residence on visit in July 1909, during the Adriatic tour from Venice them. The typoscript in the third and fourth folder to Corfu on the imperial yacht ‘Miramar’ (Adria, Au- contains a detailed description of the preparations for gust 1909, p. 341), in the issue from February 1910, the first longer stay of the Crown Prince’s family on Adria reported about the first longer stay (February the islands in 1910. At the beginning of February 1910, and March) of the Archduke’s family on the Adriatic the heir to the throne arrived with his family on the

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islands. They enjoyed very much the pleasant island of the purchase, but sought other ways in which the climate during their eight-week stay, so that Franz Fer- desired goal could be achieved. Several weeks after dinand felt his chronic lung problems no more, which this estimation, an article was published in the Paris was not the case after his stays on the issue of The New-York Herald, announcing that the and in St. Moritz. political situation in made it urgently necessary From the letter of the head of the cabinet (Vorstand that the state acquire the Brijuni islands. Parts of the der Militär Kanzlei) Alexander von Brosch-Aerenau islands that were not used for fortification purposes to Franz Ferdinand from March 16, 1910 (Brosch- could be left to the heir to the throne as a stay there Aerenau, 1910), it is also possible to read about the hadprovedtobeveryfavourabletohishealth(Ku- archduke’s intentions to build a residential villa on the pelwieser, 1917, p. 357). Kupelwieser denied this false western Istrian cost, more precisely on the Brijuni Is- report in his own newspaper (Brioni Insel Zeitung, 29 lands. He was authorised to negotiate the acquisition march 1910). of Peninsula Barbana at the north-western tip of the From the unpublished part of the Kupelwieser island or Cape Peneda in the very south, for which the memoirs, it is evident how much he was concerned Archduke was particularly interested. According to with the intense pressures related to the Archduke’s the negotiator, Kupelwieser was more willing to give wishes to take over the island, which affected his ner- up Cape Peneda than Barbana, because he needed the vous system so much that he had heart problems fieldforhislivestockandlocaltraffic,butalsobecause several weeks after his departure. Apart from heart of the planned construction of the bridge from Bar- spasms, throughout the whole spring, summer, and bana to Brioni Minor. Kupelwieser did not want to sell autumn of 1910, Kupelwieser had problems with boils anything but proposed a lifelong or longer lease. He on various parts of his body and with eczema which was ready to renounce any payment, demanding that could not be effectively treated. In autumn, he decided after the lease had ended, everything would pass back to visit dermatologist Prof. Dr Una in Hamburg, and into his (or his heirs’) possession. Although Brosch- since the disease caused by stress became complicated, Aerenau did not consider Kupelwieser’s offer accept- he had to lie in bed because of painful boils and eczema able, after detailed calculations, he recommended fur- (Kupelwieser, 1917, p. 321). Kupelwieser used his stay in ther negotiations. Hamburg to visit Karl Hagenbeck in his famous zoo In his (unpublished) memoirs, Paul Kupelwieser and arrange his visit to Brijuni the following year (in describes the visit of the head of the cabinet, Colonel January 1911). Brosch, who attempted to negotiate on behalf of Franz In the meantime, the harbour admiral, Excellency Ferdinand. He informed Kupelwieser that his Impe- von Ripper, also attempted to complicate or block ev- rial Highness was 49 years old and, as the future em- ery investment in the islands in the next three years. peror, needed a residence, and it was to be Brijuni. Although the construction of the new hotel Neptun During Easter 1910, the Brijuni islands were visited iii, designed by the young architect Eduard Kramer, by the court garden director Umlauf, who was asked was repeatedly interrupted, until the next Easter sea- to have a closer look at the islands and to estimate sonin1912andre-arrivalofprominentguests,theho- the value of the whole estate. He estimated that be- tel was completed, which also enabled a larger visit of cause of the islands’ climatic benefits with the same the most distinguished Viennese circles. It was the year isothermsasLošinjandthewealthofabundantfer- of fulfilment and the highest ranking visits, according tile soil as well as relative proximity of Vienna, Brijuni to local tourist magazines. At the invitation of Franz were worth 25,000,000 crowns and that his Imperial Ferdinand, on his trip from Venice to Corfu, the Ger- Highness could pay even 30,000,000 crowns. Accord- man Kaiser visited the islands. Along with the solemn ing to Kupelwieser, these amounts, which were well welcome of the war fleet, the emperor was welcomed over twice what he had invested in Brioni, were proba- by 400 guests of the Brijuni spa. The presence of such bly the reason that Franz Ferdinand no longer thought high-level guests on Brijuni greatly contributed to the

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island’s promotion, so much so that all rooms were stock company, but in the joint venture with sold out several weeks before the Kaiser’s arrival (Ku- our own hotel company and led by well-paid pelwieser, 1917, p. 362). medical staff. Finally, Kupelwieser offered the construction of the residence, the castle with a larger park surrounding the The most informative preview of the most pros- villa on the Peneda peninsula, which was one fifth of perous period before the First World War, and prob- the island’s surface. Kupelwieser offered Franz Ferdi- ably the most comprehensive guidebook is the Führer nand a twenty-year lease, so he could use it under the durch Brioni (Gnirs, 1910). same conditions as long as he lived (Kupelwieser, 1917, Along with the already published autobiograph- p. 363). After unsuccessful negotiations, Franz Ferdi- ical notes of the island’s medical doctor Otto Lenz’s nand seemed to give up taking over the Island, and wife Brijuni – Lost Paradise, (Lenz Guttenberg, 2007), overthenexttwoyearshespentthelatewinteratthe which include important details related to the events Miramar Castle near . The intention of Franz ontheislandontheeveoftheFirstWorldWar(such Ferdinand to take over Brijuni is also confirmed by as the arrival of the British fleet just before the very be- the book of his secretary in which, in the chapter en- ginning of the war), in some very informative Brijuni titled Brioni, he describes in detail the relation of the guide books from the 1920s and ’30s, written by the crown prince towards Kupelwieser and his attempts to islands’ physician Otto Lenz, there are interesting de- become the owner of the most attractive parts of the tails about the First World War. In the publication Die islands, in the broader context of political and diplo- Bedeutung der Insel Brienz als hervorragender Clima- matic relations and visits (Nikitsch-Boulles, 1925, pp. tischer Kurort der Nordadria, we can read that ‘the war 140–150). passed almost unperceived near Brijuni [. . .] only a few bombs would fall on Brijuni, but without any dam- Ambitious Development Plans age [...] That is how our beautiful island could, after In the winter before the outbreak of World War I, the peace agreement, be awakened again from the un- massive investments were completed: the visitors of wanted four-year-old dream’ (Lenz, 1930, p. 4). We can Brijuni’sfivedeluxehotelswith500bedscouldenjoy also learn that immediately before the outbreak of the the first indoor swimming pool with heated sea wa- war, large investments were completed: with a unique terinEuropeinawellnesscentre,whichwasopened indoor heated swimming pool connected to the rooms in October 1913. In the unpublished part of his mem- with a heated corridor, Brijuni had 300 rooms in five oirs, Paul Kupelwieser mentions Dr Neumann’s pro- hotels that could accommodate 450 guests. The heated posal for the construction of a sanatorium projected swimming pool should be the centre of future devel- by the architect Kramer a few months earlier in the opment of Brijuni as a winter spa, insisted Dr Lenz framework of his ambitious plans to develop a health in conclusion of his very informative guide. He also tourism resort. Several weeks after that, Franz Ferdi- announced intensive equipment of the spa centre, nand was killed in Sarajevo. Because the First World the building of a new sanatorium, in addition to the War began four weeks later, Kupelwieser commented existing hotels, where guests will be offered special that he was glad that the construction for which he treatments, massages and hydrotherapy, mud ther- had been ready had not begun (Kupelwieser, 1917, pp. apy, diets, and seawater inhalation, ‘as in Salsomag- 373–374): giorespa.’Thefuturespaandwellnesscentrewould includeagymroomandfitnessinthepool,along I’m thinking about the future enlargement of with the unavoidable walks over 80 km of decorated our hotel resort through the arrangement of paths. In conclusion, the indications for treatment about 100 rooms in the hotel on the west coast were listed. of Brijuni, perhaps at the same place where a Particularly impressive is a booklet Spaziergänge sanatorium was planned, not as a private joint auf Brioni (Lenz, 1926) in which the island’s physi-

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cian, through a proposal of 12 walks through the pic- building that was to be built in Dobrika Bay. The spa turesque Brijuni Islands, also recounts the history of building was supposed to be five stories high in the Brijuni as a tourist destination, presenting a whole central part and only one floor in the wings. About 120 range of important details. accommodation units were planned in this impressive Dr Lenz, among other things, elaborated a signif- health resort. icant project to build a sanatorium in Madona Bay, After the war, when, after great political changes, which was planned before the start of the First World Istria and Brijuni fell under the authorities of Italy, War (also mentioned by the publicist Richard Voss only huge debts remained. Paul Kupelweieser died (1914) in his book Die grüne Insel, dedicated to the shortly after the collapse of the monarchy in 1919. His owner of Brijuni. Because of the best climatic condi- son Karl continued his venture with less success, and tions in the Madona Bay, after a long period of reflec- new investments in golf and polo fields only increased tion on arranging the winter sanatorium for conva- the enormous debts. After additional family problems, lescence, a joint stock company was organised. The he took his own life in 1930, and in 1936 Brijuni was plans were completed, the construction was approved sold to the Italian state. by the Austrian command of the naval port (with the Very interesting is also the preserved documen- condition that the building be coloured green so as tation from the family legacy (diaries, letters and re- not to become the target of the enemy), the capital for ports) after World War ii, which testifies about the construction was also ready; then the war came and first visit of Kupelwieser’s family members to the Is- blocked the project. lands after the forced departure in 1935. The letter from This information is confirmed by an unpublished October 1960, written by family members (Mautner development study from 1919, which is also kept in Markhof, 1960) who were pleasantly surprised by the the Kupelwieser Collection. After the war and in the reception by the new authorities, documents their rea- year of Paul Kupelwieser’s death, his heirs founded sons for leaving the islands in 1935, as well as the cur- the Brioni joint stock company in 1919. The contract, rent situation in Brijuni, which in the meantime had held in the Department for the Rare Collections of the become a presidential residence. Austrian National Library, is one of the few documents relatedtothecompany’sbusiness(Kupelwieser,1919). Conclusion This document, which presents a feasibility study and At the end of the Second World War, on 5th May 1945, a strategic framework for further development of the theBrioniIslandswereliberatedwiththerestofsouth- islands at the same time, apart from financial struc- ern Istria, and were under the control of the Yugoslav ture, which includes both future British and us in- Government, in contrast to Pula, which was then un- vestors, mentions detailed ambitious development der Allied control. Josip Broz Tito, the president of plans, including, for example, connecting the Veli Bri- the Federative Peoples’ Republic of Yugoslavia, came jun to Mali Brijun (Brioni Minor) by a bridge, and fur- to Brioni on 20th June 1947 and declared them a res- ther spreading of the health resort offer through a new idential area (Begović & Schrunk, 2007, pp. 155–166). sanatorium in Madona May, as well as new spa com- Since that time, extensive work had begun on their re- plexes on both islands. Another document related to covery from the damage inflicted by bombing. From this substantial investment, which was unfortunately 1952 to 1981, numerous foreign dignitaries visited Bri- interrupted by World War I, is an architectural project juni, including members of European royal families for a never-built health resort in the Madonna Bay, and high-ranking diplomats. The summer presiden- a work of the well-known architect, Eduard Kramer tial residence was built on the Island of Vanga. The (who designed almost all the hotels in Brijuni) dating Brijuni Islands were an important venue of historical back to 1915. meetings of the 20th century. In October 1983, the Bri- Along with another unrealised project, a large 1905 juni Islands were declared a National Park. seafront hotel, there is also a project for a large Kurhaus In their turbulent history, from the Roman era to

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the modern times, the Brijuni Islands had a signif- ropean seaside towns since 1700. Bristol, England: Chan- icant economic function, related to elite leisure, but nel View Publications. also a prominent political and diplomatic role, as a res- Brockhausen, K. (N.d.) Brioni: Ein Kulturmärchen aus un- idence. The conducted research has indicated similar- seren Tagen. Sammlung Kupelwieser (Cod. Ser. n. 53114), ities, common practices and models of the elite Euro- Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vienna, Austria. pean spas and seaside resorts, including the relation Gnirs, A. (1910). Führer durch Brioni. Vienna, Austria: Kun- stdruckerei Frish. between resorts and ports, which could also be useful Kupelwieser, P. (1917). Aus den Erinnerungen eines alten in the analysis of tourism development on the Brijuni Österreichers [Manuscript]. Sammlung Kupelwieser Islands. (Cod.Ser.n.53025/1–4),ÖsterreichischeNationalbib- Valuable rare archival documents kept in Austrian liothek, Vienna, Austria. archives, related to the development of tourism on the Kupelwieser, P. (1918). Aus den Erinnerungen eines altes Brijuni Islands in the most dynamic and dramatic pe- Österreichers. Vienna, Austria: Gerold. riod before, during and after the World War I, can Kupelwieser, L. (1919). Die Aktiengesellschaft Brioni: Im illuminate previously unknown sections of the past Auftrag des Familienverwaltungsratses. Sammlung Ku- of the Brijuni Islands and should, therefore, be fur- pelwieser (Cod. Ser. n. 53034), Österreichische Nation- ther analysed and presented. Since the archival ma- albibliothek, Vienna, Austria. terialrelatedtothehistoryofBrijuniisdispersedin Lenz, O. (1926). Spaziergänge auf Brioni. Vienna, Austria: Trupp. different institutions and partially lost, it is essential Lenz,O.(1930).Die Bedeutung der Insel Brioni als hervorra- to continue research, which could reconstruct some gender Climatischer Kurort der Nordadria. Vienna, Aus- critical events. Besides the afore-mentioned Austrian tria: Trupp. archives and collections, there are fascinating sources MautnerMarkhof,M.(1960,17October).Nach25Jahren in archives in Trieste, Pazin, and Belgrade, which Wiedersehen mit Brioni. Sammlung Kupelwieser (Cod. should be analysed in greater detail. The European Ser. n. 53050), Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vi- Year of Cultural Heritage, besides commemorating enna, Austria. the end of the First World War and celebrating the Nikitsch-Boulles, P. (1925). Vor dem Sturm. Erinnerungen common European values and heritage, was an op- an Erzherzog Thronfolger Franz Ferdinand. , Ger- portunity to valorise former aristocratic residences many: Verlag fuer Kulturpolitik. as common Euro-Mediterranean heritage through Steiner-Wischenbarth, J. (N.d.). Nachlass, Sein Leben un Wirken (K.3, H.13). Landesarchiv Graz, Graz, Austria. transnational projects and networks as well as in- Steward, J. (2000). The spa towns of the Austro-Hungarian ternational labels (European heritage label, unesco empire and the growth of tourist culture: 1860–1914. In heritage, etc.). P.Borsay,G.Hirschfelder,&R.-E.Mohrmann(Eds.), New directions in urban history: Aspects of European art, References health, tourism and leisure since the enlightenment (pp. Balota,M.(2005).Puna je Pula. Pula,Croatia:Amforapress. 117–120). Münster, Germany: Waxmann Verlag. Baskar,B.(2010).Southbound,totheAustrianriviera:The Urošević, N. (2014). The Brijuni Islands – Recreating par- Habsburg patronage of tourism in the Eastern Adriatic. adise: Media representations of an elite Mediterranean Anthropological Notebooks, 16(1), 9–22. resort in the first tourist magazines. Journal of Tourism Begović, V., & Schrunk, I. (2007). The Brioni Islands: Past, ar- History, 6(2–3), 122–139. chitecture and cultural heritage. Zagreb, Croatia: Golden Von Brosch-Aerenau, A. (1910, 16 March). [Letter to Franz marketing-Tehnička knjiga. Ferdinand]. Sammlung Kupelwieser (Cod. Ser. n. 53172), Blom,P.(2008).The vertigo years: Change and culture in the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vienna, Austria. West, 1900-1914. New York, ny: Basic Books. Voss, R. (1914). Die grüne Insel: Ein homerisches Eiland in der Borsay, P., & Furnée, J. H. (Eds.) (2015). Leisure cultures in Adria; Aus meinem Reisebuch. Vienna, Austria: Helios. urban Europe, c. 1700–1870: A transnational perspective. Walton,J.K.(Ed.).(2005).Histories of tourism, representa- Manchester, England: Manchester University Press. tion, identity and conflict. Clevedon, England; Buffalo, Borsay, P.,& Walton, J. K. (Eds.) (2011). Resorts and ports: Eu- ny; Toronto, Canada: Channel View Publications.

Academica Turistica, Year 12, No. 1, June 2019 |39 Nataša Uroševi Inventing Tourism in the Naval Port

Woerl, L. (1899). Erzherzog Ludwig Salvator aus den öster- This paper is published under the terms of the reichischen Kaiserhause als Forscher des Mittelmeeres. Attribution- NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International (cc by-nc-nd 4.0) License. Leipzig, Germany. Zuelow,G.E.(Ed.).(2011).Touring beyond the nation: A transnational approach to European tourism history. Farn- ham, England: Ashgate Publishing.

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