Holiday Highlights 888-8---1919 August 2019

Leader: Darren Rees Guides: Isaac and Mr.T (Chobe); Elmo and KB (Sango); Isaiah and BK (Delta); Knowledge and Dix (Deception) Guests: Lynn & Steve Osborne, Lyn & Dave Maslin, Jayne Behenna, Sarah Sharland, Jane Nickerson, Michael Peacey, Adele Reynolds & Martin Warren

Day1: Thoughtful Thursday - Getting There We meet up at Heathrow’s Terminal 2 for the start of our big African adventure, and everyone is excited about prospects for the holiday ahead. Well almost everyone as two guests are already there, having flown ahead of the group. For the rest of us, we’ve an evening flight to Johannesburg to negotiate before onwards travel tomorrow to Kasane in the north of Botswana on the famous Chobe River.

Day 2: Fantastic Friday - Kasane and our first Elephants After an uneventful and comfortable flight we land in a cool Johannesburg, passing through immigration to wait a couple of hours for our connecting flight to Kasane. There we meet with Jayne and Sarah who have been in neighbouring Zimbabwe visiting Victoria Falls and whose own personal list of birds and is very much up and running.

We also meet our rep from Chobe Elephant Lodge then load the minibus before driving west to the lodge through Chobe National Park, noting some common birds that will be a constant feature of the coming days, including Fork-tailed Drongo and Lilac-breasted Roller. Ahead, by the side of the road, is a family of bizarre looking Southern Ground Hornbills – another taster of the bird riches to come. Then we see our first incredible Elephants! The second of the two groups are just browsing beside the road and we stop for some stunning views of simply magnificent . For those new to Africa, the first time you witness these gentle giants going about their business is something you will always remember.

Onto the beautifully appointed Chobe Elephant Lodge and after a welcome fruit juice we are shown to our rooms, all with views over the Chobe River flood plain that is dotted here and there with groups of animals – we can see Zebra, Impala and Warthogs – this is going to be fun!

After a quick freshen-up, we head out for our first game drive with our camp guides Isaac and Mr T, loading into two roomy jeeps, all with seats with-a-view! As we leave the property we see our first Grey Hornbill in a tree followed by Red-eyed Doves and Arrow-marked Babbler. Around the corner Isaac points to a large troop of Chacma Baboons on the side of the road so we pull over to observe these curious primates. The group has lots of females and young and is overseen by a large alpha male, known as The Godfather – great to watch!

We drive down a dust track that takes us through bushes and thickets that are busy with birds. First is a spectacular long-tailed Magpie Shrike, foraging around for insects and grubs with a Cape Glossy Starling. Blue Waxbills are on show too. Jane points to a Red-billed Hornbill on the ground behind and the late afternooon sun is catching its bright bill – the flying chilli pepper! Further on are lots of White-browed Sparrow Weavers and a stunning Crimson-breasted Shrike on the ground - a Plain-backed Pipit can’t compete, though a stately Fish Eagle can as it sits on a tree-top surveying the scene.

The track leads us to open views across the Chobe River valley and although the water has largely dried up with the recent drought conditions, the river course is still attracting lots of animals to the muddy pools and lush grasses along the riverbed. Hundreds are on show with big groups of Impala, Plains Zebras and Waterbuck though we spend time watching the antics of the many Baboons that are littered across the landscape.

Lots of birds are picking around the ground and low bushes, with several red-faced Swainson’s Spurfowl busying themselves along with Coppery-tailed Coucal, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Rattling Cisticola, Fork-tailed Drongo and a Lilac-breasted Roller. What a scene as we stop and break open the bar for sundowners – something of an African safari tradition. Along with cold beers, gin-and-tonics and chilled white wines we see Egyptian and Spur-winged Geese fly by the red sun, passing over the grazing Zebras and both Blacksmith’s and Crowned Lapwings. In a distant tree a Black-chested Snake Eagle sits in a tree top – hand me a drink!

Day 33:::: Stunning Saturday - Chobe National Park and River After an early morning wake-up call we assemble for breakfast at 6.30am keen to get away in good time for our game drive within the world-famous Chobe National Park.

We haven’t even reached the gated entrance to the Park when we see our first Giraffe. If you’ve never seen one before they just defy the senses, seemingly moving in slow motion with their elongated limbs and necks. There are also more Baboons before we go through the park gates and into the park proper.

We drive along the tarmaced road before heading off on a sandy track and we soon find a flurry of bird activity with Blue Waxbills and Lynn spots a Golden-breasted Bunting. More bouts of birdy action are further on, where we see a black-and-white Puffback, a Chinspot Batis, an Emerald-spotted Dove, more Swainson’s Spurfowl and a Red-billed Francolin. Steve finds out first Slender Mongoose. Then we come across a large group of Giraffes looking fantastic as they gracefully work their way through the bush. They are kicking up dust and the light paints an atmospheric picture of a forest of backlit necks. Next, is our first sunbirds - a smart male White-breasted Sunbird followed by a stunning Scarlet-chested Sunbird catching the light. Further along we get great looks at (and photos of) a beautiful Lilac-breasted Roller that is modelling for us right alongside the track. Destined to be one of the birds-of-the-trip.

Soon, we come across two Elephants, the first of the day – our guides point out that it is a pairing of two males with an older travelling with a younger solo male. Ahead, two White-backed Vultures are soaring around looking not unlike familiar Griffons.

We work our way to the river bank where the landscape opens out to a wonderful African panorama. Big groups of animals include Impala and Plains Zebras and as we are now further downstream, nearer the confluence with the Zambezi River, there are large water channels dotted with birds. Species come thick and fast at every stop with Lynn finding a close Openbill Stork. A more colourful Yellow-billed Stork is alongside a Sacred Ibis and our first African Jacana. Further down the channel are Great Egret and a Goliath Heron. Cattle Egrets are moving through the Impala and in the closest channels are African Spoonbills, Grey Heron, Little Egret, Greenshank, Common and Wood Sandpipers. Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt and Pied Kingfisher complete the list before we stop for a morning coffee. From our rest-stop we can get out and stretch our legs and we can get a scope on Little Bee-eater, Yelllow-fronted Canary and some see a White-browed Scrub Robin. Also, Lyn finds our first gleaming wet Hippo on the grass bank ahead - another iconic species for our African adventure.

We resume our game drive and are straight into the new birds when Isaac points out a social group of White-crested Helmet Shrikes moving through the trees. Birds of prey are showing themselves with good looks from Dark Chanting Goshawks; teasing looks from a Booted Eagle; a Bateleur teeters across the sky; a Lanner chases through the bushes then peels off from hunting mode to soar high up and an African Marsh Harrier quarters the low bushes.

Then something remarkable happens, we first hear an Elephant calling from within the dense bushes and trees and we note the many Giraffes are all looking forward in the same direction – they seem to be focussed on something and are oblivious to us approaching. Then ahead we see the reason for the commotion: a lone African Lion crosses the track in front, followed by first one and then another. Wow! That is close! They quickly disappear but are evidently not far away as we can hear one calling – it is summoning young animals, as three younger Lions move from behind us passing across the path and right next to one of our jeeps. They are greeted by the adults that appear from cover – what fab looks and what a first big cat experience!

Lunch is at Serondela on the banks of the river and the talk is all of Lions (and how tasty the food is) - we are buzzing from the mornings sightings (and the Bobotie). Birds around the wooded lunch spot include Red-billed Francolin (with young), Blue-eared Starling, Crested Barbet and Grey-backed Camaroptera. After lunch we drive through the scrub noting our first group of stately Roan Antelope, then we head along the riverbank coming across larger groups of Elephants, some with very young animals being nursed by mothers. More and more animals are present as the water level in the river has increased with our passing to the east. Elephants, Hippos, Impalas, and Water Buffalo are a taster of what’s to come with our afternoon activities on the water.

We drive to Kasane, now a busy town on the Chobe River. From here we can get a small boat along the river, back into the National Park and view wildlife from the water. Our guide, King, points out the goodies as we go. African Fish Eagles are sat on treetops and we see our first African Darter. Then a large bright green bird catches our eye in the taller trees along the river – as it flies across we see vivid red patches in the wings – it’s a rare and localised breeder – a Schalow’s Turaco!

Next we see a smart White-crowned Lapwing (with a wattle!) and our first charismatic Nile Crocodile (what a grin). Across the river is our first Red Lechwe – sturdy, rich-coloured antelope. More noble looking Greater Kudu are drinking along the water’s edge and we see a Pied Kingfisher before spending time with a large group of Elephants. It’s a scene straight from an Attenborough documentary with animals wandering to the water’s edge for their daily drink – mother’s escorting young animals, larger males filling their boots.

Further along we enjoy great looks at herds of Waterbuck, more Black-winged Stilts, Squacco Herons, Reed Cormorants, a Goliath Heron wing-stretching, two Water Thick-knees, a confiding Pied Kingfisher, Water Monitor Lizard and of course, sundowner drinks!

What a day and we still have to drive back through the Park to the lodge – there are more stops along the way for elephant crossings and two roadside Steenboks.

Day 44:::: Super Sunday - Early Morning Chobe and Sango Safari We have a charter flight around midday to our next camp, so the guides have offered us a morning game drive with the intention of working our way to the airport around 11am – that sounds like a plan. So we have breakfast at 6.30am and say our goodbyes to the hospitality crew and then get on our way shortly after 7am.

We drive a short distance along the main road when Martin spots a large bird in a dead tree – it’s a spectacular Bateleur and, as we are outside thePark boundary, we can get out and set up a scope – wonderful looks. A little further along we stop for a mass Water Buffalo crossing which also looks great in the morning light and dust. It’s nice to note the many birds accompanying the animals looking for insects stirred up by the beasts, with Red-billed Oxpeckers joined by Fork-tailed Drongos and Lilac-breasted Rollers.

Within the Park borders we stop at a roadside Lizard Buzzard sat in a tree, then take off down a narrow sandy track. Birds along the way include Double-banded Sandgrouse, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater and a group of Golden-breasted Bunting. Then Lynn spots something crossing the track ahead – one Honey Badger followed by a second – wow! We drive to where they both entered the bush, but we fail to locate them finding two Crested Francolin instead.

The forest soon gives way to more open country and we spend time with more close groups of Elephants. It’s a real privilege being so near to these huge animals and watching their feeding techniques: twisting small clasps of dried grass with their trunks then shaking them for dust before eating – not much nutrition methinks!

Nearby, in a large grassy area, stands two Black-backed Jackals and we follow one that trots across the clearing and then disappears down a den hole. Yet the thrill of seeing a new is soon matched by the experience of watching some bright birds sent from paradise, a dead tree is lit up with a group of vivid Carmine Bee-eaters. What elegant shapes! What wonderful colours! A hot favourite for Bird-of-the-trip we reckon.

At our coffee spot the talk is of the highlights of the morning, but there are still distractions - we see two Tawny Eagles soaring high overhead (with a fish eagle); watch a confiding Yellow-bellied Greenbul and are entertained by darling Vervet Monkeys. Our guides are mindful of the time and we continue in the direction of Kasane but our plan to arrive at the airport at 11am is scuppered.

First, a superb Pearl-spotted Owlet perches alongside the track and then we come across a Lioness pacing through the bushes. ‘There’s more further on’ we are told by people in a jeep passing in the other direction and within a short distance we are watching a group of five lying at the base of a bush. One by one they get up and pace off in the direction of the first – these are amazing animals to watch and admire, with every taut muscle so perfectly defined – what healthy looking beasts, but then there is a lot of food and water around.

So we arrive at the airport a little after schedule and say our goodbyes to guides Isaac and Mr T. They have showed us so much. And the adventure continues as we load up into our small Cessna that has just enough space for us all - but someone has to sit up front and act as co-pilot. It’s a hard duty and responsibilty to take on and Darren willingly accepts, this will be fun!

With minimum fuss we taxi along the airstrip noting a large Kori Bustard walking through the grasses by the runway. Soon we are rising above the land and the geography unfolds before us. The meandering Chobe River dissects the parched scrubland below and we can look down on the herds of animals (and watch a Fish Eagle soaring below us!).

Coming in to land at Khwai is another thrill as we pass over game below including Wildebeeste, Elephant and herds of Impala. We land and meet our new guides, BK and Elmo who take us to our new base Sango Lodge which sits on the River Khwai. The lodge crew sing their welcomes and show us around this beautifully appointed piece of heaven in the African bush – we will like it here!

After some nibbles and a quick freshen up we have our afternoon game session with new places to explore. New birds come thick and fast with Burchell’s and Meve’s Starlings, African Pipit, Meyer’s Parrot and Red-billed Firefinch to add to the list. As we get to the waters edge where the Khwai River crosses the landscape things get busier. It’s particularly fun pausing to watch the antics of Hippos in the water and to listen to their comical moans and grunts. Masses of birds and mammals dot the watery fringe of mud and flooded grass and we sift through the new species on offer: Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, Ruff, Kittlitz and Three-banded Plovers, Hadeda Ibis and both Hottentot and Red-billed Teals – it’s a veritable haven for water birds of all shapes and sizes, from small Cape Wagtails to lofty Wattled Cranes. Large groups of Collared Pratincoles are hawking for insects and some are perched on the ground – beautifully marked birds with lipstick red bills. Herons, egrets, ibis, geese and jacanas are dotted around and there are loose herds of Red Lechwe grazing - we are pointed to the smaller Reedbuck that are sat in the taller reeds. Groups of Elephants are coming to drink and there’s one huge bull with tusks that is wading in the mud and feeding on the lush herbage.

It’s a perfect place for sundowners.

Day 55:::: Marvelous Monday - Khwai and Spotty Cats After breakfast we get into the jeeps for the first of the day’s three game drives – a marvelous Monday awaits!

Our route takes us deep into the Khwai Concession area that acts as a buffer for the famous Moremi Game Reserve across the river and we ease through the mixed woodland, scrub and wetland habitat. Our first stop is when an African Hawk Eagle is perched in a tree. This is followed by flurries of bird activity with Magpie Shrikes and Pied Babblers. Then, Sarah spots a family of Dwarf Mongooses and we watch these adorable animals busying around a fallen tree.

The guides then find a Spotted Hyena is resting near its known den site – more of them later. Next up is a fun session watching two Honey Badgers going about their business: They seem to be hunting co-operatively with each animal at different ends of a tunnel. They periodically take breaks from digging to freeze and listen for movement before digging again. The commentary goes something like ‘you take this end… na, I’m bored with this, you take that end…’ Eventually there is a result of sorts when a tiny gerbil leaps out and springs direct into a bush and both badgers dash after it, with no success it seems as they continue to firkle around in the leaf litter. All amusing to watch!

We continue, noting Magpie Shrikes and both and White-backed Vultures at their respective nest sites, before pausing for coffees in the bush (and a convenient termite mound loo). We resume our searches through the bush and it’s not long before we notice one jeep parked off the track, about twenty yards into the heavy scrub. There, crossing a clearing, paces the most beautiful large spotty cat….. a Leopard!

We enter the clearing and drive up to where it is sat at the base of a tree, seeking some shade. It is a thing of beauty with exquisite marking throughout its coat. With closer inspection through binoculars we can see that its right ear bears a series of notches and Elmo identifies her as Matssebe, a known female in the area. She’s gorgeous!

KB arrives with his jeep and there are now three vehicles parked at a respectful distance watching the big cat. At one point it seems to see a nearby Francolin and it adopts stealth mode but then looses interest and slopes off. We circle the copse that it enters and KB finds her sat on the other side – a nice image of her sat in the shade, so we take some pictures then leave her in peace and return to Sango for an early lunch.

We have some downtime after eating and everyone is happy to watch what is happening at the adjacent stretch of the river. Hippos wallow, Elephants come to drink, Warthogs dig around, Red Lechwe ruminate and two male Waterbuck sparr. Bird action includes a low soaring female Bateleur, an African Marsh Harrier gets harassed by a Long-toed Lapwing and Lyn finds a young African Hawk Eagle.

Our afternoon session is another drive through the Khwai River Concession land and we slowly work our way to a different section of the river. As well as Lechwe and Waterbuck, wading up to his thighs is a huge bull Elephant – the biggest we’ve seen so far. Across on the far bank is our first funny looking Hammerkop that lives up to its name ‘hammerhead’. Elmo checks the nearby bushes and flushes two Black-crowned Night Herons that then land in a small tree and we can get scopes on them through the tangle. Coppery-tailed Coucal, Jacana and Blacksmith’s Plover are all on show.

Continuing through the thicket bushes and trees, Elmo, in the lead vehicle, spots a small owl sat in view. We can see the barred and blotchy breast markings and the fine concentric circles around the eye – a beautiful Barred Owlet. We can get out and scope the bird and get in the perfect position for some nice photos. The route takes us past the known Hyena den site and, as predicted by the guides, a large female is resting outside on guard (KB suspects there are little ones inside). We enjoy more great views of a powerful looking, if a little lazy looking at the moment, animal.

Driving along we get news that a Leopard has been seen nearby so we drive towards its location. As we near we can see nearly a dozen jeeps parked infront of a stand of trees. Above the vehicles, lounging on one of the biggest boughs of one tree is a beautiful looking spotty cat. It’s is the same individual that we saw earlier in the day – the locals refer to her as Matssebe. In the afternoon light she is truly wonderful and the iconic image of a Leopard lounging in a tree proves to be the magic moment for many.

At sundowners all the talk is of marvelous Monday and can the day get any better. For half of the group it proves that it can get better!

After an already full day we are offered a night drive and we just can’t refuse. So into the jeeps we load and into the night we drive. The guides sweep left and right with powerful spotting lamps looking for eye-shine from critters. Its not long before we see some bright eyes jumping from bush to bush - Lesser Bushbabies a-leaping! We later see a dark-tailed Spring Hare and more obliging Scrub Hares. We also see the usual array of Zebra and Impala and a dozen or so Elephants gathered at a salt lick. There’s also an improbable Hippo dust-bathing at the roadside. We get back and learn that the other jeep has had an eventful time too – and Jayne is grinning like a Cheshire Cat. There’s a new species for Speyside tours – another spotted cat - a spectacular Serval and Jayne has the photo! That’s two spotty cats in a day – a marvelous Monday indeed.

Day 66:::: Tuesday - The Moremi Incident Our destination for this morning is the famous Moremi Game Reserve that lies across the Khwai river. We drive through the little village of Khwai admiring the small school and shopping centre, though everywhere looks closed. We pause on the wooden bridge just before the entrance gate to check out the water birds – a Black Crake is with its fluffy young chick and Jacanas and a nice Coppery-tailed Coucal is on show.

Once we’ve sorted paperwork and permits we proceed through the gates and drive slowly along the sandy tracks. We stop here and there for some new birds: a small mopane tree is busy with Grey-headed Sparrows and Yellow-spotted Petronias; further on a punky-looking Crested Barbet feeds amongst the leaf litter with two Burchell’s Starlings; we also see our first Hartlaub’s Babblers.

We then get the message from Elmo that a Leopard is on view so we move further into the Park. After five minutes we see a jeep parked deep in the long grasses next to some trees and bushes and as we approach we can see the Leopard’s head at the base of the taller trees. It soon stands up and moves to the right, which is our cue to get into a better position. Sure enough, it walks right past our jeeps at a close distance – what a fine looking animal and we enjoy incredible looks.

Then an unexpected thing happens, Elmo’s jeep moves on to intercept the path of the Leopard but KB’s jeep fails to start, what a place to find out you have a defective battery. Luckily both jeeps are in radio contact so Elmo doubles back and we get the tow-rope out. The engine starts after twenty yards or so and we manage to get both jeeps back to the track but then it fails again once the engine is switched off. This time the stress of the towing action in the sand forces Elmo’s jeep to grind to a halt and wheel-spin so we need to unhook and reverse. The long and short of the Moremi Incident is that within half-an-hour a replacement jeep is delivered to a designated spot where we are having our morning coffee, admiring the Fish Eagles and sleeping Hippos – crisis over!

After coffee we drive in the alternative (identical) jeep and resume our safari. Blue Wildebeeste are with a herd of Plains Zebras in one grassy clearing – a new mammal for the list. Further along, a Black-backed Jackal sits under a tree and we enjoy some nice photo opportunities with some Little Bee-eaters.

Lunch is another delicous affair and afterwards there is a mix of snoozing, sitting, reading and relaxing in the heat of the day. Afternoon tea and cakes is served with a small group of Elephants that have come to the river next to the camp.

Our afternoon activities are centred along the Khwai River but this time we are exploring the channel in a fleet of six mokoros, a type of narrow, shallow-drafted long canoe. In pairs, we are assigned a boat and a guide and we set of into the watery world of the delta. Seeing the riches and abundance of life from the low perspective of the water level is a whole other experience. The relative silence of passage by mokoro, when the only man-made sound is the wake of the boat, enhances the encounters with the birds and mammals. Most are now familiar but we can watch the Openbills hunt for snails with their modified mandibles; we are amongst the lilies with the lily-trotters or Jacanas; we marvel to the sound of the delta - the call of the Fish Eagle. Birds are drinking at the water’s edge and there’s a Fork-billed Drongo next to a Red-eyed Bulbul. Ahead we can hear what seems like the sound of a waterfall or rapids, but is in fact the sound of a herd of Elephants wading across the river. A couple of individuals pause to drink – wonderful from water-level.

Further along, we watch the antics of a Little Bee-eater that returns again and again to its reed perch, catching insects and then taking in the evening sun and wing-stretching. At the furthest point there is a large Hippo in the water and he is very wary of us. It snorts and yawns revealing its massive gape and tusks – a true wonder of the animal kingdom. After satiating ourselves with fab looks we set off for the bank at one side of the river and the guides arrange a make-shift bar for sundowners – another special day in the field.

That evening the staff at the lodge perform some singing and dancing as a farewell – the Sango Singers would walk Botswana’s Got Talent – Sarah and Adele’s magic moment!

Day 77:::: Wonderful Wednesday - To the Okavango Our timings for our last morning at Sango allows us to do one more game drive with Elmo and KB, so we set off into the Khwai Concession region ever hopeful for new sightings. It’s another clear morning and we drive through the village noting some of the bird species that we’ve got used to seeing like Double-banded Sandgrouse, Magpie Shrike, Crowned Lapwing and Red-billed Hornbill. Taking off into the bush we stop at a nice Brown Snake Eagle that is catching the morning sun. Driving past the Hyena den there’s no sign of its owner so we push on further noting Zebra and Impala. We stop at a stand of taller trees where three Green Wood Hoopoes are working the coarse trunks, picking at the rough bark with their pickaxe-like bills.

Moving through the mopane woodland we come to the meandering Khwai River and pause at two Hippos sparring in the water. Lots of snorting, grunting, huffing and puffing – from the Hippos, not the guests. Further along, we stop at a larger more peaceful gathering of Hippos that are lying close together enjoying the morning sun. Behind them on the far bank, something distracts us – a Honey Badger is rummaging through the grasses – fab!

Morning coffee is just across a narrow back water that we have to cross with the jeeps – skilfully done by the drivers and thankfully the jeps have snorkel exhausts as we get in fairly deeply. With our drinks we can watch the Burchell’s Sandgrouse visit to drink and collect water in their breat feathers – great to witness. Other birds include Hammerkop.

On the return route we stop at a stand of trees where KB has found a roosting owl. Elmo locates the bird – a smart Verraux’s or Giant Eagle Owl. Also on the way back to base we come across our first Giraffe while we’ve been at Sango – always nice to watch.

Lunch at Sango is as good as ever and afterwards, as we’ve a couple of hours before departure, we visit the viewing platform on the property. From the elevated and covered position we can view a large stretch of the river – a nice place to while away an hour or so. We see Burchell’s and Long-tailed Meve’s Starling side by side below us; Blacksmiths and Long-toed Lapwings; Egyptian Geese, Jacanas and Saddle-billed Stork; Bateleur and Hammerkop amongst other birds. Red Lechwe and Waterbuck are gathered and a group of Hippos keep us amused. There’s even a distant Elephant though Sarah points out that the Coucal looks bigger!

We say our goodbyes to the staff at Sango then drive to the nearby airstrip, where we see a new bird – two Wattled Lapwing are nesting nearby and chasing off a Tawny Eagle. Then, bang on time, a small Cessna lands and taxis into position. Our own exclusive transfer to the Delta though it’s small and we need three planes! The views over the delta are to die for – shining ribbons of water mark the tableau below and we can see Elephants, Giraffes, Impala and even Baboons from the air.

Landing at Delta we are met by BK and his team from Delta Camp. The low water means a change of plan is needed for the last passage to the lodge, so we first walk then load into makoros to journey along the channels. Red Lechwe, Reedbuck, Fish Eagles, African Pipit and others are viewed from the comfort and privacy from our own dug-outs (fashioned from Sausage Trees). Unfortunately, our mokoro trip is cut short as the water ahead is blocked by Water Buffalo (not something that happens at home!) We have to walk the last section, but what a delight it is walking through and exploring the bush on foot. Birds include Red-eyed Bulbul, Village Weaver, Go-away Bird, Double-banded Sandgrouse and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers on the neck of a Giraffe. Eventually, we arrive at Delta Camp and the grounds are extensive – we even find an exquisite Pearl Spotted Owlet in a small tree by the path – what great views through the scope.

Finally it’s drinks and welcomes from the David and the hospitalty staff at the open bar with the most wonderful views over the marsh and wetland – this is going to be fun.

Day 88:::: Terrific Thursday - Delta Life and a Birthday to Remember Every safari lodge has its own rhythym and timings and so it is with Delta Camp. Our early morning wake-up call is at 6.15am and then we work our way to the eating area for coffee and snacks before heading out for an early morning walk.

It’s a real delight and privilege to be striking out into the African bush on foot and we work the edge of the island while all the time on our right is a huge expanse of open grassland bordering the river and this is dotted with game: Zebra, Impala, Wildebeeste, Lechwe, Warthog and a few Kudu. It’s all conducted at a leisurely pace and we can get looks at some new birds: Scarlet-chested and Marico Sunbirds, Green Pigeon, Golden-tailed Woodpecker and Lesser Striped Swallow. Along the river are the usual suspects: Hammerkop, Fish Eagle, Saddle-billed Stork, Blacksmith’s Lapwing and Egyptian Geese.

At one point there’s a definite frisson in the air when we hear Lion roaring and Hyena calling nearby! We then encounter some Water Buffalo ahead so have to change our course, then an Elephant appears and again we choose another path – its all very exciting!

Our guide Isaiah spots something in one of the taller trees ahead - a large warm- brown coloured bird. It has big black eyes and it looks down on us as we set up scope and take pics – it’s a much sought after Pel’s Fishing Owl - wow! We also get fly-bys from a young Hawk Eagle and a Red-necked Falcon.

Back at the camp the feeders have been stocked and birds are coming into drink and nibble at apples. Most noticeable are the bright red Black-collared Barbets that are joined by Dark-capped and Red-eyed Bulbuls, Golden Weaver, Southern Masked Weavers, Common and Black-faced Waxbill and a Yellow White-eye. Some entertainment after a big breakfast! We also play the count-the-herds game as the open stretch of grassland is now brimmig with animals – a thousand beasts or more with Impala being the most numerous. Lyn spots a lone Reedbuck.

It’s now getting warmer but this is tempered by a wind that whips across the grassland. Soon, we set off for our afternoon walk, but like this morning’s this doesn’t follow the planned route as a Hippo is deemed too close for comfort near the river crossing. We walk along the flood plain and surprise a spotted Bushbuck from its cover. Cutting back into the scrub we need to change tack again when there are two Elephants seen ahead of us – the obstacle coursethat is the African bush! We divert and find a nice Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, then Isaiah flushes a Nightjar that flies ahead then drops into the grass. It takes us a while, but we eventually track it down and it looks great in the scope - a Red-cheeked Nightjar no less! In the next stand of trees we see a flock of Red-faced Mousebirds and a smart Brubru, then a Baboon family crosses our path led by a Godfather. As we get nearer to camp we add Green Wood Hoopoe, Swamp Boubou and Long-billed Crombec. Drinks on the deck is over another classic African scene with animals a-plenty including a lone Tsessebe and a rising pink full moon.

Our last night at Delta is a special one as Steve is celebrating his birthday and as well as birthday cake there’s some African singing too. You’d think that this is enough, yet as we are walked back to our rooms we are told that there is a Lion with a kill in the camp - and it’s next to Steve and Lynn’s cabin. So what else can we do but invite ourselves in for an exclusive view – what we see can only be described as phenomenal. Just thirty feet away on the ground from the balcony is a large Lioness with an equally big bull Kudu. It seems happy to carry on licking and pulling at the skin as we slowly raise our torches to throw some light. A moment of high drama and a privilege to witness – though it may be a noisy night for Lynn and Steve.

Day 999:9::: Fabulous Friday - The Lion’s Share After last night’s exciting end to the day we are all keen to know what’s happening at the carcass behind cabin number five. Walking to the dining area first thing proves an interesting experience, some avoiding Buffalo and Elephant and with Adele and Martin seeing four more Lions crossing the grounds in the direction of the kill site. When Jane turns up she is with an escort as she has been restricted to her cabin by five Lions and there is still no sign of Lynn and Steve!

Mishack and Darren go to check what’s going on and the grizzly scene awaits. The big female Lion is still with the Kudu, only now the carcass is ripped open and the grassy contents of the stomach is spilled out on the floor. Lynn and Steve say that it has been an eventful night with the Lioness seeing off a Spotted Hyena, then later at dawn she charged twice at them, which must have been alarming to say the least (though not a match for Steve’s loud outburst!)

The Lioness now clocks our movement and growls – she then grabs the Kudu by its leg and drags the body towards the nearest bush so that only the neck, head and twisted horns of the Kudu is visible. Lynn and Steve are both open for visitors so we play the ‘see-how-many-people-we can-fit-into-a-cabin’ game. Soon the German family and their guide come knocking, then the rest of the Speyside group and our walking guides – even the camp manager Pony turns up so we have 24 of us wedged in!

The show unfolds with the four large cubs coming in, though these are reluctant to feed in the open and just criss-cross between bushes as the female sits with the carcass. Finally the group of youngsters wander through the taller grass and away, but this prompts the Lioness to leave the carcass to follow in their direction. She roars a couple of times as if to say ‘where are you going?’ She then pauses and rests out of sight and for now the whole show comes to an end. The ‘cabin five incident’ has had us gripped for hours and the magic moment for many.

Its our cue to move to the dining area for our last breakfast with the friendly staff at Delta, but even then there’s a drama. Midway through eating, one of our guides, Max, comes in saying there are Wild Dogs behind the kitchen building! We grab our binoculars and run. Sadly, when we get to the area where we can scan there are no sign of them – hmmm.

After eats we start the journey back to the airstrip, noting the circling Lappet- faced and White-backed Vultures that have detected the dead Kudu - in a dead tree close to the site are four Hooded Vultures also. We continue the return walk and makoro trip back to the small airstrip, adding White-headed Vulture and Shikra to the list, before saying our goodbyes to the friendly guides and to start the last leg of our adventure.

We are transferred to our final base in the Kalahari by another series of three small Cessna planes (though the first has to go via Maun for fuel and this confuses things temporarily!) The flights are wonderful, with views across the parched delta as far as the eye can see and looks at Elephant, Zebra, Giraffe and Impala below us. Lyn and Darren manage to tick Ostrich as we pass over the scrubby fringe of the Kalahari before we descend to the landing strip at Deception Lodge.

There we are reunited with the group and meet our two guides for the next two days, Dix and Knowledge (what a great name for a guide!). The drive to the lodge is only fifteen minutes (we stop for a Pale Chanting Goshawk) and we soon settle in with drinks, snacks and an intro to the staff. The building looks over a waterhole where an Elephant drinks along with some new birds: Great Sparrow, White-browed Sparrow Weavers, Laughing Dove, and Yellow Canary join the familiar Bulbuls. Within a few minutes the Elephant wanders nearer and starts drinking from the swimming pool! As Jayne says, they are not allowed in although they’ve brought their trunks.

After we’ve been shown to our fabulous rooms and had a little time to freshen up, it’s time for the afternoon activities. We are joined by Kalahari trackers who sit perched on the front of the jeeps to look for animal tracks in the sand. We set off expectant, but the first new things we stop to look at are the new bird species for the different habitat: we see Kalahari Scrub Robin, Scaly-feathered Finch, Scimitarbill, Violet-eared Waxbill, Marico Flycatcher and a Red-crested Korhaan - we glimpse Black-backed Jackal and Steenbok too.

Then we yield the benefits from the skills of the trackers. Perched on Dix’s jeep the tracker sees fresh tracks crossing the sand. He stops and proceeds on foot into the bush towards an area where vultures are circling, returning after a while to the jeep with the good news, some serious off-roading later, both jeeps are next to another fresh Kudu kill and this time five cubs are chaparoned by two immaculate Lionesses. The adults have had their fill but the cubs come back to the carcass to chew and crunch and then go through bouts of play-fighting and rough and tumble – adorable to watch. And watch we do, forsaking sundowner drinks for a memorable sundowner show. Before we leave, a third, pregnant, Lioness joins the group – another superb looking beast.

Returning to the lodge the wildlife watching continues as a giant African Porcupine is nibbling at discarded fruit close to the verranda – its joined by three others as we eat our evening meal. A Small-spotted Genet and Honey Badger make brief appearances too – what another astonishing place!

Day 101010:10 ::: Spiffing Saturday - Deception Valley and Kalahari Bushmen Our early wake up calls are at 6am and after tea, coffee and cookies we are ready for another game drive. Content with our views of Lions the evening before, we adopt a more leisurely pace looking at the birds we encounter, starting with scope views of a spectacular Tawny Eagle perched in a tree. We pick our way along the sandy track, getting nice looks at Acacia Pied Barbet, Green-winged Pytilia, White-crowned Shrike and Marico Sunbird. We take a look at the airstrip where Wildebeeste are gathered in good numbers and we see Crowned Lapwing, Marico Flycatcher and Yellow-billed Hornbill (flying banana!) - the other jeep visits a bush waterhole where Burchell’s Sandgrouse are coming in to drink and douse their belly feathers with water so they can carry liquid back to their young.

After brunch there’s lots of time spent watching the waterhole and the smaller water feature closer to the deck. We add lots of new species, as well as getting better looks at some cracking birds. Yellow Canary, Great Sparrow, Crimson- breasted Shrike, Violet-eared and Black-faced Waxbills, Lark-like Bunting, Pririt Batis, Brubru and gleaming Blue-eared Starlings.

After high tea and nibbles we set off into the bush, this time to share the Kalahari Bushman experience. Our trackers are in traditional hunting attire and walking barefoot through the bush and with the aid of Dix as translator we learn some details of their hunter-gatherer culture: what bushes make the best arrows and how to make your quiver from roots; how to catch a Steenbok with a thick stick and how to prepare its skin; how to find water from swollen root tubers; how to track and hunt game with a bow and arrow (the leader takes one for the team as a gullible assistant) and finally how to make a fire with sticks (if at first you don’t succeed).

So we gather around our friction-made fire and have our last sundowners, then start the ride back to the lodge, using the opportunity for a short night drive. One lucky jeep comes up trumps – a sleek looking Caracal is prowling through the grasses on the left and it pauses long enough to give us great looks – we just love those long tufted ears! We even see Oryx and two Porcupines au naturelle before arriving back at the lodge where three more Porcupines are busy scoffing the friut and veg scraps put out for them. It’s not long before these are joined by a Honey Badger, though it circles the Porcupines and doesn’t venture too near the fruit.

It’s time for our last meal and it’s another fine one, with lots of looking back on the holiday highlights. However, our chat is punctuated with irresistible looks at Honey Badger and Porcupine that keep wandering by - at one point the badger climbs the barbecue! Just as we are finishing the meal there is a deep roar from a male Lion that is very close by – it focusses our thoughts and we finish up, quickly taking a prime spot (and safe spot) to the view the waterhole hoping he may come to drink..

We wait a while but he doesn’t show, so our guides offer us an added night-drive to go look for him. Within ten minutes or so Dix’s sharp eyes catches a glint in the bushes and we are watching the male they refer to as Blondie. He’s just about visible – a remarkable spot.

We wander back, but for some there’s no let up and a late night waterhole- watching is in order – well it is our last night. We wait patiently and we get looks at shy Red Hartebeeste that come to drink. Jackals trot in a couple of times and we get one visit from a scarce Brown Hyena. With more shows from a barbecue- hopping Honey Badger and busy Porcupines it’s a great night’s viewing and we retire exhausted at 11.30pm.

Day 1111:::: So Long Sunday - The Long Haul Home. Lions at the waterhole disappear after a short while before most people surface, though Jane’s cabin was facing in the right direction and she manages to see the animals pass by. We slowly gather and watch the local Pale Chanting Goshawk harass the large group of doves that are gathering to drink. It tries several attempts but seems to lack the element of surprise and speed to make a successful hunt. Very entertaining though!

We are eating breakfast when our guide Knowledge can hear a Lion calling. From his position he can see a female sitting under a tree so we finish eating and set the scope up for great looks.

Time is not in our favour as we have flights to catch but we load the jeeps and factor a short time for one pass-by the Lion – it is the pregnant female and she walks right between the two vehicles for point blank views. What a send off!

At the airstrip we say goodbye to Knowledge and Dix and start our long transfer, again with wonderful views over the arid Kalahari scrub before descending into Maun. It’s a couple of hours wait until we board our scheduled flight to Johannesburg and then onto London. There’s plenty of time to cast the votes for species of the trip and magic moments – what a lot to choose from.

Magic Moments 1. The wonderful Leopard resting in a tree 2. The high drama of the Lion on the Kudu kill – the ‘cabin five incident’ 3. The infectious Sango Singers

Place of the Trip Winner: Delta Camp, Okavango Runner-up: Khwai River

Mammal Top Ten (11) 1= Leopard 1= Lion 3. Elephant 4. Porcupine 5= Honey Badger 5= Serval 7. Caracal 8. Kudu 9. Sable Antelope 10. Oryx

Top Antelope Kudu

Sound of Africa 1. Roaring Lion 2. Sango Singers 3. Happy Hippos

Birdy Top Ten 1. Pel’s Fish Owl 2. Carmine Bee-eater 3= Lilac-breasted Roller 3= Barred Owlet 3= Verraux’s Eagle Owl 6= Tawny Eagle 6= Red-crested Korhaan 6= Collared Pratincole 6= Burchell’s Sandgrouse 6= African Fish Eagle

Species Lists BIRDS Common Ostrich Struthio camelus Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena Red-billed Spurfowl Pternistis adspersis Swainson's Spurfowl Pternistis swainsonii Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus African Spoonbill Platalea alba Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Great Egret Ardea alba Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Hammerkop Scopus umbretta Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus African Darter Anhinga rufa Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Polemaetus bellicosus Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar Shikra Accipiter badius African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori Red-crested Korhaan Lophotis ruficrista Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra Wattled Crane Grus carunculata Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus White-crowned Lapwing Vanellus albiceps Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris African Jacana Actophilornis africanus Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Ruff Philomachus pugnax Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus Burchell’s Sandgrouse Columba larvata Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos Namaqua Dove Oena capensis African Green Pigeon Treron calvus Meyer’s Parrot Poicephalus cryptoxanthus Schalow's Turaco Tauraco Grey Go-away-bird Corythaixoides concolor Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis Verraux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus Pel's Fishing Owl Scotopelia peli Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum African Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense Fiery-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus pectoralis Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus natalensis African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus Purple Roller Coracias naevius Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicoides Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri Southern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus rufirostris Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus Bradfield’s Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi African Hoopoe Upupa africana Green Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Acacia Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni Bearded Woodpecker Chloropicus namaquus Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus Pied Crow Corvus albus Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor Hartlaub’s Babbler Turdoides hartlaubii African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris Terrestrial Brownbul Phyllastrephus terrestris Yellow-streaked Greenbul Phyllastrephus flavostriatus Groundscraper Thrush Turdus litsitsirupa Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyana Kalahari Scrub Robin Cercotrichas paena White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Marico Flycatcher Melaenornis mariquensis White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Ant-eating Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora Barred Wren-Warbler Calamonastes fasciolatus Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler Parisoma subcaeruleum Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens Rattling Cisticola Cisticola cinnamomeus Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Marico Flycatcher Bradornis mariquensis African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis Pririt Batis Batis fratrum Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys White-crested Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Tropical Boubou Laniarius major Swamp Boubou Laniarius Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrococcineus Brubru Nilaus afer Magpie Shrike Urolestes melanoleucus Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus anguitimens Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Meves's Starling Lamprotornis mevesii Burchell's Starling Lamprotornis australis Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorynchus Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis White-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris talatala Great Sparrow Passer motitensis Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus Yellow-throated Petronia Gymnoris superciliaris Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea Pin-tailed Wydah Vidua macroura Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis Violet-eared Waxbill Uraeginthus granatinus Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica Yellow Canary Crithagra flaviventris Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris

MAMMALS Chacma Baboon Vervet Monkey Lesser Bushbaby Scrub Hare Bush Cape Black-backed Jackal Slender Mongoose Banded Mongoose Dwarf Mongoose Honey Badger Spotted Hyena Brown Hyena Small-spotted Genet Serval Caracal African Lion Leopard African Elephant Burchell’s Plains Zebra Hippopotamus Warthog Southern Giraffe Cape Buffalo Oryx Bushbuck Greater Kudu Common Duiker Steenbok Common Reedbuck Common Waterbuck Springbok Impala Red Hartebeeste Tsessebe Blue Wildebeeste Sable Antelope Roan Antelope Bushveld Gerbil

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS Nile Crocodile Water Monitor Striped Skink Tropical House Gecko