Darren Rees Guides: Isaac

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Darren Rees Guides: Isaac Holiday Highlights Botswana 888-8---1919 August 2019 Leader: Darren Rees Guides: Isaac and Mr.T (Chobe); Elmo and KB (Sango); Isaiah and BK (Delta); Knowledge and Dix (Deception) Guests: Lynn & Steve Osborne, Lyn & Dave Maslin, Jayne Behenna, Sarah Sharland, Jane Nickerson, Michael Peacey, Adele Reynolds & Martin Warren Day1: Thoughtful Thursday - Getting There We meet up at Heathrow’s Terminal 2 for the start of our big African adventure, and everyone is excited about prospects for the holiday ahead. Well almost everyone as two guests are already there, having flown ahead of the group. For the rest of us, we’ve an evening flight to Johannesburg to negotiate before onwards travel tomorrow to Kasane in the north of Botswana on the famous Chobe River. Day 2: Fantastic Friday - Kasane and our first Elephants After an uneventful and comfortable flight we land in a cool Johannesburg, passing through immigration to wait a couple of hours for our connecting flight to Kasane. There we meet with Jayne and Sarah who have been in neighbouring Zimbabwe visiting Victoria Falls and whose own personal list of birds and mammals is very much up and running. We also meet our rep from Chobe Elephant Lodge then load the minibus before driving west to the lodge through Chobe National Park, noting some common birds that will be a constant feature of the coming days, including Fork-tailed Drongo and Lilac-breasted Roller. Ahead, by the side of the road, is a family of bizarre looking Southern Ground Hornbills – another taster of the bird riches to come. Then we see our first incredible Elephants! The second of the two groups are just browsing beside the road and we stop for some stunning views of simply magnificent animals. For those new to Africa, the first time you witness these gentle giants going about their business is something you will always remember. Onto the beautifully appointed Chobe Elephant Lodge and after a welcome fruit juice we are shown to our rooms, all with views over the Chobe River flood plain that is dotted here and there with groups of animals – we can see Zebra, Impala and Warthogs – this is going to be fun! After a quick freshen-up, we head out for our first game drive with our camp guides Isaac and Mr T, loading into two roomy jeeps, all with seats with-a-view! As we leave the property we see our first Grey Hornbill in a tree followed by Red-eyed Doves and Arrow-marked Babbler. Around the corner Isaac points to a large troop of Chacma Baboons on the side of the road so we pull over to observe these curious primates. The group has lots of females and young and is overseen by a large alpha male, known as The Godfather – great to watch! We drive down a dust track that takes us through bushes and thickets that are busy with birds. First is a spectacular long-tailed Magpie Shrike, foraging around for insects and grubs with a Cape Glossy Starling. Blue Waxbills are on show too. Jane points to a Red-billed Hornbill on the ground behind and the late afternooon sun is catching its bright bill – the flying chilli pepper! Further on are lots of White-browed Sparrow Weavers and a stunning Crimson-breasted Shrike on the ground - a Plain-backed Pipit can’t compete, though a stately Fish Eagle can as it sits on a tree-top surveying the scene. The track leads us to open views across the Chobe River valley and although the water has largely dried up with the recent drought conditions, the river course is still attracting lots of animals to the muddy pools and lush grasses along the riverbed. Hundreds are on show with big groups of Impala, Plains Zebras and Waterbuck though we spend time watching the antics of the many Baboons that are littered across the landscape. Lots of birds are picking around the ground and low bushes, with several red-faced Swainson’s Spurfowl busying themselves along with Coppery-tailed Coucal, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Rattling Cisticola, Fork-tailed Drongo and a Lilac-breasted Roller. What a scene as we stop and break open the bar for sundowners – something of an African safari tradition. Along with cold beers, gin-and-tonics and chilled white wines we see Egyptian and Spur-winged Geese fly by the red sun, passing over the grazing Zebras and both Blacksmith’s and Crowned Lapwings. In a distant tree a Black-chested Snake Eagle sits in a tree top – hand me a drink! Day 33:::: Stunning Saturday - Chobe National Park and River After an early morning wake-up call we assemble for breakfast at 6.30am keen to get away in good time for our game drive within the world-famous Chobe National Park. We haven’t even reached the gated entrance to the Park when we see our first Giraffe. If you’ve never seen one before they just defy the senses, seemingly moving in slow motion with their elongated limbs and necks. There are also more Baboons before we go through the park gates and into the park proper. We drive along the tarmaced road before heading off on a sandy track and we soon find a flurry of bird activity with Blue Waxbills and Lynn spots a Golden-breasted Bunting. More bouts of birdy action are further on, where we see a black-and-white Puffback, a Chinspot Batis, an Emerald-spotted Dove, more Swainson’s Spurfowl and a Red-billed Francolin. Steve finds out first Slender Mongoose. Then we come across a large group of Giraffes looking fantastic as they gracefully work their way through the bush. They are kicking up dust and the light paints an atmospheric picture of a forest of backlit necks. Next, is our first sunbirds - a smart male White-breasted Sunbird followed by a stunning Scarlet-chested Sunbird catching the light. Further along we get great looks at (and photos of) a beautiful Lilac-breasted Roller that is modelling for us right alongside the track. Destined to be one of the birds-of-the-trip. Soon, we come across two Elephants, the first of the day – our guides point out that it is a pairing of two males with an older animal travelling with a younger solo male. Ahead, two White-backed Vultures are soaring around looking not unlike familiar Griffons. We work our way to the river bank where the landscape opens out to a wonderful African panorama. Big groups of animals include Impala and Plains Zebras and as we are now further downstream, nearer the confluence with the Zambezi River, there are large water channels dotted with birds. Species come thick and fast at every stop with Lynn finding a close Openbill Stork. A more colourful Yellow-billed Stork is alongside a Sacred Ibis and our first African Jacana. Further down the channel are Great Egret and a Goliath Heron. Cattle Egrets are moving through the Impala and in the closest channels are African Spoonbills, Grey Heron, Little Egret, Greenshank, Common and Wood Sandpipers. Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt and Pied Kingfisher complete the list before we stop for a morning coffee. From our rest-stop we can get out and stretch our legs and we can get a scope on Little Bee-eater, Yelllow-fronted Canary and some see a White-browed Scrub Robin. Also, Lyn finds our first gleaming wet Hippo on the grass bank ahead - another iconic species for our African adventure. We resume our game drive and are straight into the new birds when Isaac points out a social group of White-crested Helmet Shrikes moving through the trees. Birds of prey are showing themselves with good looks from Dark Chanting Goshawks; teasing looks from a Booted Eagle; a Bateleur teeters across the sky; a Lanner chases through the bushes then peels off from hunting mode to soar high up and an African Marsh Harrier quarters the low bushes. Then something remarkable happens, we first hear an Elephant calling from within the dense bushes and trees and we note the many Giraffes are all looking forward in the same direction – they seem to be focussed on something and are oblivious to us approaching. Then ahead we see the reason for the commotion: a lone African Lion crosses the track in front, followed by first one and then another. Wow! That is close! They quickly disappear but are evidently not far away as we can hear one calling – it is summoning young animals, as three younger Lions move from behind us passing across the path and right next to one of our jeeps. They are greeted by the adults that appear from cover – what fab looks and what a first big cat experience! Lunch is at Serondela on the banks of the river and the talk is all of Lions (and how tasty the food is) - we are buzzing from the mornings sightings (and the Bobotie). Birds around the wooded lunch spot include Red-billed Francolin (with young), Blue-eared Starling, Crested Barbet and Grey-backed Camaroptera. After lunch we drive through the scrub noting our first group of stately Roan Antelope, then we head along the riverbank coming across larger groups of Elephants, some with very young animals being nursed by mothers. More and more animals are present as the water level in the river has increased with our passing to the east. Elephants, Hippos, Impalas, and Water Buffalo are a taster of what’s to come with our afternoon activities on the water. We drive to Kasane, now a busy town on the Chobe River.
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