ANN’S EXIT ANN DEMEULEMEESTER BOWS OUT OF FASHION. HOPEFUL SIGNS PAGE 5 J.C. PENNEY’S SHARES SHOOT UP DESPITE A $489 MILLION LOSS. PAGE 2

SETTING MINIMUM STANDARDS Rival Initiatives Unite On Bangladesh Plants

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — Two rival initiatives to improve fire and building safety standards in Bangladesh’s appar- WWD el industry have found some common ground at last, agreeing in principle to a set of minimum standards. The agreement is a major step toward easing what THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY could have been conflicting — and confusing — rules to raise the standards in the South Asian nation’s ap- parel factories, which have seen a string of industrial accidents that have resulted in the deaths of more than 1,500 people. But even if consensus is reached, a large percentage of the country’s apparel factories won’t be covered by either initiative. On Wednesday, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, which includes Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Gap Inc., VF Corp. and Target Corp., said it has reached agreement on a common set of standards, “pending a few final modifications,” with the larger coalition, the Accord on Fire & Building Safety in Bangladesh, which is led by IndustriALL Global Union and UNI Global Union and whose member companies include Inditex, Hennes & Mauritz, Marks & Spencer, Carrefour, Primark and C&A. In addition to the alliance and accord, the Bangladesh University of Engineering & Technology is a third party to the agreement on common safety standards, which is being established under the aus- pices of the International Labor Organization. “The challenges in Bangladesh are many and com- plex, and the solution requires collaboration across all interested parties,” said Jeffrey Krilla, president of the alliance. “I am proud of the role the alliance played in setting the foundation for harmonized standards and look forward to shifting our focus to implementation.” Between the accord and alliance, about 2,000 Bangladeshi factories will be covered and must adhere to the new set of fire and building safety standards, said Brad Loewen, chief safety inspector of the accord, in an SEE PAGE 6 LVMH to Establish Global Fashion Prize

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Jury duty has never been more fashionable — or star-studded. Taking fashion prizes to a new height, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is launching an international contest for young designers with some of the industry’s biggest creative figures — including Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo and Riccardo Tisci — choosing the winner. Supersonic Santa They will be joined by Kenzo’s creative duo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, who as founders of scour the globe for new labels to stock in their stores. As ’s major retailers unveil their holiday windows, Christmas gets a high-tech The new LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, spin at Barneys New York, where a futuristic Santa and Mrs. Claus “virtually” which comes with a grant of 300,000 euros, or $405,000 at current exchange, plus a year of coaching, is the tool around the city in a souped-up sleigh. For a look at more windows, see page 4. brainchild of Delphine Arnault, who has emerged as a powerful talent scout and advocate for young de- signers at the luxury giant her family controls. “We thought, ‘Who better than the designers of the group to elect the young fashion designer of to- morrow?’” she told WWD, eyes widening when asked about the challenge of finding a date when all those fashion figures could gather in one room. “The aim of this prize is to try to discover talents that are un- known, and also to create a surprise.” Arnault said the first winner would be selected to- wards the end of May 2014. The competition is unique in its global scope, online- only registration and nominations — and a gradual PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 WWD.COM Penney’s Ullman Touts Progress THE BRIEFING BOX ing that “[t]here is no remarkable of $2 billion at yearend. IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG difference between the margins The credit analyst said, “We are we’re obtaining on promotional encouraged by the directional ca- “WE’VE TURNED the corner.” markdowns through our major dence of same-store sales improve- That was the upbeat assess- events than there was in 2011.” ment...[W]e believe J.C. Penney Léa Seydoux ment of J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s chief One negative has been shrink- needs accelerated top-line im- stuns in executive officer Myron E. “Mike” age, which added 100 basis points provement to plug its cash burn.” embroidered Ullman 3rd in a conference call to on margins in the third quarter, al- For the quarter ended Nov. 2, Prada at the Wall Street analysts. And while the though Ullman said the company the net loss widened to $489 mil- Governors company reported a substantially is putting processes in place to lion, or $1.94 a diluted share, from Awards. For wider third-quarter loss compared control inventory shortage, other- a year-ago loss of $123 million, or more celebrity with a year ago — $489 million wise known as employee theft and 56 cents. On an adjusted basis fashion, see versus $123 million — Ullman’s shoplifting, in its stores. Shrinkage in both periods, the net loss was WWD.com. optimism spread to the retailer’s rose due to the removal of security $457 million, or $1.18 a diluted shares, which jumped 8.4 percent tags when the prior management share, compared with a year-ago to close at $9.44 on the New York team planned to track merchan- loss of $203 million, or 93 cents. Stock Exchange. dise using radio frequency identi- Sales fell 5.1 percent to

Even as skepticism remained fication technology. $2.78 billion from $2.93 billion. STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE about how fast Penney’s can turn its Ullman added that having the Comparable-store sales were operations around, what has inves- right marketing is just as impor- down 4.8 percent in the quarter, tors hopeful were some positives tant as the right merchandise. “We although there was sequential PHOTO BY in Ullman’s remarks, including im- need to drive traffic by communi- improvement of 710 basis points proved sales trends in men’s and cating...in a clear and compelling compared with the second quar- women’s apparel, as well as fine way. Our first step has been to en- ter of 2013. Online sales rose 24.5 Two rival initiatives to improve fire and building safety jewelry, and the continued expecta- sure that our customers know that percent for the quarter and were standards in Bangladesh’s apparel industry have found some tion that the retailer will have posi- meaningful promotions are back... at $266 million. common ground at last. PAGE 1 tive comps for the fourth quarter. For the nine months, the loss “Let me start off by say- widened to $1.42 billion, or $6.17 LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is launching an ing that the turnaround at J.C. a diluted share, from a loss of international contest for young designers with some of the Penney is beginning to take $489M $433 million, or $1.98, last year. industry’s biggest creative figures choosing the winner. PAGE 1 hold,” Ullman said. “We’re mak- Sales were down 11.3 percent to ing significant strides toward re- THIRD-QUARTER LOSS AT $8.08 billion from $9.1 billion. Barneys New York, , Bloomingdale’s and storing J.C. Penney to its rightful J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. While Ullman was confident Lord & Taylor have unveiled their holiday windows, and Saks place in retail.” that Penney’s has passed its low Fifth Avenue gave WWD a sneak peek. PAGE 4 Ullman said the home catego- point, the same can’t be said of the ry is being remerchandised, and that if you want great value, we’re opinion of some equity analysts. Ann Demeulemeester on Wednesday bowed out of fashion the place to be,” he said. Wells Fargo analyst Paul the company expects to have that with a letter handwritten with a fountain pen, signed at the end completed in the spring. “And we Ullman said the management Lejuez still has his “underper- with an “X” to represent a single kiss. PAGE 5 continue to expect to deliver pos- team is “pleased with the progress form” rating on shares of Penney’s itive comps for the fourth quar- being made and we believe we’ve stock, noting that “we believe J.C. ter,” he said. turned the corner.” He added later Penney has been burned by the Recent allegations of racial bias in department stores were The ceo noted that gross mar- in the question-and-answer ses- effect of an unsuccessful turn- tackled in a three-and-a-half hour Council gins, currently 29.5 percent of sion that sales in October and into around strategy, which has creat- meeting at City Hall Wednesday. PAGE 6 sales versus 32.5 percent a year November have been “progres- ed a hole that is likely too deep.” ago, were lower due to the impact sively improving,” and that promo- Sterne Agee analyst Charles Designers turned out in force Tuesday night in Paris for the of clearance sales to eliminate in- tions during holiday will “vary by Grom has a “neutral” rating on final rehearsal of “Eternity Dress,” a performance starring Tilda ventory overhang and to transition week and by promotion.” He also the stock, noting that “while comp Swinton and fashion curator Olivier Saillard. PAGE 7 back to the promotional pricing noted to analysts that shoppers at trends have improved direction- strategy the company is known for. department stores are there six ally, we’ve been surprised that the Fashion designers, scribes, publicists and personalities “The good news, however, is to 12 times a year, compared with ‘slope’ of the improvement has not feted Eric Wilson’s new job as fashion news director at InStyle we’re putting back in place the those who do their weekly visits at been greater, particularly consid- magazine at ’s Skylark lounge Tuesday. PAGE 7 components necessary to return mass discounters. Consequently, ering the compares from last year.” to historical gross margin levels it “takes a while for the customer Separately, L Brands Inc., for- The main goal of Bornfree, an initiative launched by Apax [and] we’ve reinstated the engine to realize we are back in business, merly Limited Brands, reported Partners’ John Megrue, is to eliminate mother-to-baby HIV of profit margin growth by get- that we have...the price promotion third-quarter results after the transmissions by Dec. 31, 2015. PAGE 7 ting our private brands back in that they enjoy.” markets closed. For the period ended Nov. 2, net income rose 25.4 stock and across our entire fleet of Citigroup’s credit analyst Karl Lagerfeld on Tuesday delivered a master class at the elite stores on jcp.com.... Janna Giannelli said the third- percent to $92 million, or 31 cents Paris school Sciences Po. PAGE 8 “[W]e’re restoring initial mark- quarter revenue and comp de- a diluted share, from $73.4 million, ups necessary to support the clines were in line with her or 25 cents, in the year-ago quar- return [to a] promotional depart- estimates, but Penney’s had a ter. The earnings per share were 3 Thom Browne is launching a lower-priced collection for fall PAGE MW1 ment store strategy. The environ- higher-than-expected cash burn. cents better than the analysts’ con- 2014 centered around the classic gray suit. ment, as you know, is very aggres- She also noted that the total li- sensus estimate of 28 cents. sively promotional, and we must quidity at the end of the quarter Revenues, disclosed when L Eminence Capital offered an investor presentation Wednesday and will compete to win. That of $1.71 billion was lower than Brands reported comparable-store to push for a merger between Jos. A Bank Clothiers Inc. and its means initially marking up our her expectations on inventory sales on Nov. 7, rose 5.9 percent to rival, The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. PAGE MW4 goods to sufficient levels to pro- build and slightly higher than $2.17 billion from $2.05 billion and tect our margins” when the dis- expected capital expenditures. were up 3 percent on a comp basis. count sale is applied, the ceo said. She had forecasted $2.16 billion The company will hold a confer- ON WWD.COM He also addressed criticism in end-of-quarter liquidity. ence call today to discuss the results. that the company has been “giv- Penney’s said it expects total — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS CELEBRITY FASHION: In a sea of high slits and side- ing the merchandise away,” not- available liquidity to be in excess FROM ARNOLD J. KARR boobs, stars like Miley Cyrus and Helen Mirren stood out by covering up. For more, see WWD.com.

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Armani to Join Italian Chamber of Fashion [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. National back to Italy, showing his women’s spring COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. By LUISA ZARGANI collection in Milan in September, after more than VOLUME 206, NO. 107. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and 20 years of showing in Paris. two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance MILAN — Giorgio Armani said Wednesday he has A new board of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, decided to join the Italian Chamber of Fashion. which includes entrepreneurs such as Patrizio Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, “While I still believe that all Italian brands Bertelli, Diego Della Valle and Gildo Zegna, has and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West should hold their fashion shows in Italy to give due been working on relaunching Milan Fashion Week, Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, prominence to our country, as an entrepreneur I tapping Jane Reeve as the association’s first chief Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, LA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. understand that certain situations, created over the executive officer. The chamber had been urging com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service years, need time to be reorganized,” said the design- Armani and Dolce & Gabbana to become members. address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within er. “I appreciate the move made by Ennio Capasa, Armani had responded that he would accept only on one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever which constitutes an important first step in this di- the condition that every Italian brand show in Milan. dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new rection. In the hope that other Italian companies The designer in the past has criticized Miu subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please follow this example, in the meantime, it seems only Miu and Valentino for showing in Paris rather call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The right, and indeed necessary, for me to send a further than in Milan. YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make strong signal of commitment and confidence aimed Miu Miu this week said it plans to strengthen its our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would at boosting an upswing in the vitality of Italian fash- structure in Paris by transferring “a number of its interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR ion and, at the same time, to show a sign of support departments” in the French capital, with the goal to DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED for the actions undertaken by the other brand mem- expand its marketing personnel within its French TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, bers of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion.” subsidiary and thus consolidate Miu Miu’s ties with UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND In July, Capasa said he was bringing Costume Paris, where the brand has shown since 2006. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 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The Guide to Style issues Grooming Awards issue Denim issue Reserve Your Spot Today MARCH: Issue Close: 12/9/13 JUNE: Issue Close: 3/26/14 OCTOBER: Issue Close: 7/16/14 by contacting Advertising Director Randi Siegel SEPTEMBER: Issue Close: 6/11/14 at 212-573-0345 or [email protected] 4 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 Holiday Windows Go High Tech

Santa waits By SHARON EDELSON at the top of the stairs at NEW YORK — It’s a high-tech Lord & Taylor. Christmas — at least in retailers’ windows here. Futuristic visions and frigid scenes — replete with snow and icicles indoors — are popular themes this year. Barneys New York’s First Couple of Christmas are performers from the improvi- sational group Upright Citizens Brigade. They’re no paunchy Father Christmas and motherly Mrs. C., though. Rather, they wear Space Age costumes de- signed by Zaldy. Wishing everyone a very post- modern holiday, Barneys created a futuristic vision of Manhattan. In another window there’s a fan- tastical ride through New York. Shoppers can take part by entering the actual window and “riding” the BNY NYC Santa’s sleigh, which looks something like a Batmobile or stingray. Barneys collaborated with an international group of art- ists, but Dennis Freedman, cre- ative director of Barneys, said, “We never considered this art. We’re entertaining the public.” At Saks Fifth Avenue, whose windows make their debut on Monday, a character called the Yeti is busily engaged in manu- facturing snowflakes. Igloos and “Floating City,” one white fake fur are the hallmarks of of Barneys New the installation, which is based on York’s windows, uses “The Yeti Story” by Stefan Bucher. video projection to The tale is told in six windows transform the island. that use 3-D video projection to follow the creature’s travels from Siberia to his current home, which is rumored to be the roof of Saks. At one window, people can make snowflakes using their mobile de- vices. The snowflakes can be digi- tally “thrown” into the window. Bloomingdale’s wanted its win- dows to tie back to its tag line, “Like no other store in the world,” emphasis on the word “world.” Large gift boxes in the Lexington Avenue windows rotate to reveal scenes from different countries, The blueprint including Great Britain, Italy, for a snowflake France, China — and New York. hangs behind “We worked with different art- a well-dressed ists to bejewel and animate [the family at Saks scenes],” said Jack Hruska, ex- Fifth Avenue. ecutive vice president of creative services. “Last year, the windows were more interactive — we cap- Bloomingdale’s Acrobats repel down the tured people’s expressions looking windows carry front of Bergdorf Goodman. at the windows and posted them good tidings on Facebook. This year, they’re from countries more whimsical and magical.” such as France. Bergdorf Goodman reimagined nine holidays throughout the year as icy, frozen dioramas. A window depicting July 4th shows people

▲ parading in front of a build- Frozen ing forged out of a glacier. April and Fool’s Day is rendered as a frozen enchanted garden party — installed upside fashion down. “We’re far beyond tradition- and living al Victorian imagery and Santa creatures Claus,” said David Hoey, senior in a director of visual presentation. Bergdorf This year’s theme, “Holidays on Goodman Ice,” features a collective curtain window. of 50-foot-long, 3-foot-high icicles crowning the windows. There are still bastions of tradi- tionalism, though. Lord & Taylor’s sophisticated windows have fig- ures dressed in Twenties- to FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Forties-era styles, white peacocks, WWD.com/ white pups and a focus on product

ERICKSEN, JOHN AQUINO AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE like never before. That’s because retail-news. the windows depict a store of yore with shoppers carrying packages

PHOTOS BY tied with red ribbons. WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 5 WWD.COM Ann Demeulemeester Exits Fashion Ann Demeulemeester el rather than accessories. Vitale, Barneys New York chief oper- By MILES SOCHA Market sources estimate the ating officer and senior executive vice Demeuleemester business is approach- president. “ Yo u have to admire how fo- PARIS — Fittingly for one of fashion’s ing $50 million in revenues. The firm cused she is and never veering from her melancholy poets, Ann Demeulemeester operates freestanding stores in Antwerp, signature taste or style. She has her own on Wednesday bowed out of fashion with Hong Kong and Tokyo, and wholesales to distinct identity, as does her collection. a letter handwritten with a fountain pen, an array of international retailers includ- We all, including her loyal customers, ap- signed at the end with an “X” to repre- ing Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New preciate that and will all be disappointed sent a single kiss. York in America, L’Eclaireur and Le Bon to see her go.” One of the original Antwerp Six Marché in Paris and Lane Crawford and A graduate of Antwerp’s Royal who helped put that small Belgian Joyce in Hong Kong. Academy of Fine Arts, whose fashion city on the global fashion map with Reflecting her cult following, retailers school marked its 50th anniversary this her soigné tailoring and dark glamour, expressed dismay at the development. year, Demeulemeester set up her compa- Demeulemeester said she had pre- Ed Burstell, managing director of ny, 32 BVBA, with her husband, photog- pared her exit in concert with the com- Liberty in who previously rapher Patrick Robyn, in 1985, and pro- pany, controlled by entrepreneur Anne worked at Henri Bendel and carried the duced her first collection for the fall 1987 Chapelle, “and they feel ready to bring line there, called the news “distressing. season, adding shoes and accessories the the brand further into the future.” “We have had a thriving business for following year. GOIZÉ FRANCOIS “As a young girl, I dreamed of having years,” he said. “What makes Ann so She began showing in Paris in 1992

a voice in fashion,” she wrote. “I worked PHOTO BY hard to realize this dream and now I feel that I accomplished this mission. I have own, in my own world, to ask all my ques- always followed my own path. tions again to myself,” she said in a 1995 “A new time is coming both for interview with W magazine. “I put my my personal life and the brand Ann heart and my soul into my work.” Demeulemeester. I feel it’s time to sepa- Demeulemeester mined a dark and rate our paths.” romantic fashion vein, and built on an She added that her brand is now an inimitable approach to tailoring that adult “with its own identity and legacy often referenced men’s wear and mili- that is able to continue growing without tary styles. Delicate blouses, sumptuous me. I trust the company and the people leather jackets, sturdy riding boots and that worked with me.” feather necklaces were also part of her She noted the women’s and men’s col- mix of tough and tender. lections for fall 2014 would be presented on “Journalists tend to label me Gothic, the runway together during Paris Fashion and I hate it. I’m not Gothic at all,” she Week on Feb. 27. (The men’s collection is to told WWD in 2010. She counted her musi- be sold in its showrooms in January.) cian friend Patti Smith among her muses, “I want to thank all of you with all my along with poets such as Arthur Rimbaud heart for the trust and support you have and Hermann Hesse, and artists such as given me,” she wrote. “I feel proud of Jackson Pollock and Jim Dine. what we realized together.” Like most Belgian designers, making Demeulemeester, 53, could not be solid, flattering garments was a key focus. reached for further comment. “I never show anything I haven’t tried Asked if there was any plan to re- on myself,” she said in 1995. “It can be place Demeulemeester with another very beautiful, but if I don’t feel good designer, Chapelle told WWD via e- in it, if I feel ridiculous, I can’t put it in mail, “There is a full team ready in the the collection. I have a big respect for house, trained by Ann over many years. women and I don’t want to make them Nothing will change.” FOR MORE LOOKS, SEE look stupid or like dolls, you know?” She noted that the founding designer While she added men’s wear to her had a hand in the fall 2014 season “and WWD.com/ fashion universe in 2005 and it grew the soul of Mrs. Demeulemeester will con- fashion-news. to more than 20 percent of the busi- tinue to be in all the future collections.” ness, Demeulemeester, like many of Asked about the designer’s plans for her Antwerp brethren, resisted many the future, Chapelle replied: “There are of the strategies employed by today’s more opportunities in life than fashion.” luxury groups to drive sales: pre-col- She added that she is confident that a GIANNONI GIOVANNI Ann Demeulemeester lections, celebrity dressing, “It” bags business “with such a strong identity will and advertising. spring looks from 2014… …2012… continue growing. We all have a positive In a 2006 interview, she sounded confi- view on the future.” PHOTOS BY dent as her sales vaulted 60 percent that As for the separation, Chapelle year as fashion, after years of exaggerat- stressed there was “no disagreement at ed femininity, ruffles and ribbons, swung all. We still carry the name together,” sug- back to Belgian fashion’s terra firma: so- gesting Demeulemeester retains a stake. briety and tailoring. While she declined to give specifics “If fashion comes more in my direction, about the shareholding structure, she said I’m very happy with that,” she said at the the entity Edu NV controls the company time. “But for me, it’s just another step. It’s and that she is its “main” shareholder. the waves of fashion. I’m here now for 20 A Belgian entrepreneur who had been years. It comes [in] my direction, and then managing director of Demeulemeester’s it goes away from me. I’m used to that.” business since 1994, Chapelle acquired an Demeulemeester is the latest designer undisclosed stake in the company in 2005. of her generation to bow out of the fash- The following year, she took a stake in ion business, following Helmut Lang’s Haider Ackermann, another designer in exit in 2005 and Martin Margiela’s final the moody vein. disappearing act in 2009. As a possible precursor to In Wednesday’s letter, Demeulemeester Wednesday’s development, Chapelle sounded sanguine about her decision. in June split the Demeulemeester and “I’m a happy and fulfilled person, Ackermann labels into two independent ready to create new challenges in life,” companies. Previously, they were embed- she wrote. ded in the same parent, 32 BVBA. Some of Demeulemeester’s early At the time, Chapelle said the change designs are currently on display at the reflected the fact that the Ackermann Antwerp fashion museum MoMu as part business has “fully matured over the …and 2007. of its “Happy Birthday Dear Academie” years, becoming a fully stable and in- exhibition. They are showcased along- dependent business on its own. This is side the work of her “Six” classmates a question of internal optimization, en- important is her consistently unique de- and quickly became a fashion star, with from 1980 to 1982: Dries Van Noten, Dirk abling both brands full freedom to grow.” sign vision over time, always gently mov- WWD anointing her “Queen Ann” in a Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, Walter Van On Wednesday, Chapelle declined to ing forward, but never too fast or too far headline following a blockbuster collec- Beirendonck and Dirk Van Saene. quantify how the Demeulemeester brand from her DNA.” tion in 1995 that would influence run- During the 2010 interview, was performing, other than “very well, “This [fall] has been our most success- ways in other fashion capitals. Demeulemeester seemed to crystallize thank you.” ful season to date with Ann’s collection, From the get-go, Demeulemeester her mission, and hinted at her legacy. In June, she had forecast seasonal so we are of course very sad to see her shunned the limelight, preferring the “My duty is to believe in beauty, hope growth of 3 to 8 percent for the Ackermann go,” said Laura Larbalestier, buying di- sanctity of her house — a three-story and emotion and I want to show that in and Demeulemeester businesses com- rector at Browns in London. 1926 design by Le Corbusier — and her my work,” she said. “That is my raison bined, which she characterized as a “beau- “Ann has been with Barneys for over hulking gray atelier by architect Georges d’être. If people say, when I’m dead, ‘She tiful increase” given the morose economic 25 years and built an incredible men’s Baines next door. was the one who added emotion to fash- climate and two labels’ reliance on appar- and women’s business,” said Daniella “It’s important for me to be on my ion,’ I’d be very happy with that.”

6 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013

Forum Tackles Racial Bias in Department ’’ Stores with the police and thefts that have oc- that the New York Police Department de- something offensive about operating By LIsA LOcKWOOD curred. she has’’ asked for a response by cided not to come.” them.” Lieberman noted that depart- Friday. If the retailers don’t respond, Macy’s letter, which was read to the ment stores have video cameras every NEW YORK — Recent allegations of they will be subpoenaed. packed chamber, said that Robert Brown, 10 feet. “Where’s the video camera to racial bias in department stores were New York city councilwoman the actor who stars in the HBO series capture the interrogation that goes tackled in a three-and-a-half hour Deborah L. Rose, who chaired the “Treme,” filed a lawsuit against the re- on?” asked Lieberman. New York city council meeting at city meeting, said she was “really dis- tailer on June 12, but hasn’t responded to Bertha Lewis, founder and president Hall Wednesday. The meeting was con- turbed” to hear there allegedly are requests to meet. “There was no evidence of Black Institute, said, “This is a bigger vened by the committee of civil Rights holding pens and detention cells in that Macy’s was involved,” the letter said, and the committee of Oversight and certain retail stores. “That’s what noting that the retailer will not tolerate Investigations. I’m asking them about,” said Gatling. racial profiling. Barneys’ letter said it The forum stemmed from recent “We need to hear from retailers about has a 90-year history in New York city This is a bigger racial profiling allegations leveled what’s going on and be fact-driven.” and “zero tolerance” for any form of dis- against Macy’s and Barneys New she said she’s reached out to stores crimination. It also said that the company York, whereby three black shoppers such as sears, cVs, saks Fifth Avenue had “no involvement” with the two people problem than were detained by the New Yo r k Police and Bloomingdale’s. who were stopped after they left the store, Department after making purchases and detailed the incidents and human Macy’s and at the stores. In addition to lawsuits rights attorney Michael Yaki’s findings, filed against the stores, the city and the which were detailed in a report commis- Barneys. NYPD, New York’s Attorney General is We need to hear from sioned by the store and released Tuesday. investigating the allegations. National Action Network’s Foy spoke — bertha Lewis, Rev. Al sharpton; Donna Lieberman, retailers about what’s about a “dangerous alliance” between executive director of the New York civil retailers and the NYPD. Barneys, bLack institute Liberties Union; Patricia L. Gatling, Macy’s and the NYPD “maintain a clan- commissioner and chair of the New going on and be destine relationship,” which retail- York city commission on Human Rights, ers and the NYPD don’t want to make problem than Macy’s and Barneys. This and Kirsten John Foy, president of the fact-driven. transparent, alleged Foy. The AcLU’s is about money, honey. The current buy- Brooklyn chapter of the National Action Lieberman noted that the Attorney ing power of African-Americans is over Network, were among those who testi- — Deborah L. rose General’s investigation into Macy’s and $1 trillion and should reach $1.3 tril- fied at the meeting. Representatives Barneys “is not sufficient.” lion by 2017.” she said that the “unique from Macy’s, Barneys and the NYPD “We’ve asked them to investigate and aggressive” spending of African-

were not present. Both Macy’s and “Today’s allegations bring a new spin the NYPD’s role in ‘shop and frisk,’” Americans “should warrant people to Barneys sent letters providing testimony, on an old assumption. If you paid that said Lieberman. she said she has pay attention to us and stroke us, as op- while the NYPD did not. much, you must have committed fraud,” pages of questions, such as: Is there a posed to profiling us.” Gatling said the Human Rights said Jumaane D. Williams, chair of the special NYPD squad assigned to de- sharpton contended’’ these incidents commission sent out letters to 17 chief city council’s committee of Oversight partment stores? How do they identify could not have happened “without col- executive officers of the largest retail and Investigations. “I’m offended that suspicious behavior? Who is watch- laboration with somebody in store.” He

stores on Nov. 13, asking about their Barney’s and Macy’s are not here. I think ing how they perform these tasks? said it’s clear “we can’t allow this to con- loss prevention policies, records of it’s insulting not just to the city council, And what is the procedure for re- tinue.” sharpton said he wants to know those accused, whether police are in but to the city of New York and the peo- tail jails? “We have serious concerns the facts and wants to “save our dollars their retail locations, their relationship ple who shop there. ’’ I’m also offended about their very existence. There’s for those who respect our dollars.” Rival Bangladesh Initiatives’’ Unite

{Continued from page one} the three teams of inspectors. interview. There are some 4,000 garment In comparison, the alliance has es- factories in Bangladesh, meaning about tablished a committee of experts to in- half are not covered by the accord or dependently analyze inspections and the alliance. The majority of those 2,000 safety audits conducted by its individ- factories will be inspected by the ILO as ual brand and retailer member com- part of its national action program. panies. The alliance could eventually The accord’s member companies certify independent inspectors. use 1,700 factories in Bangladesh, ac- Wal-Mart, for example, hired Bureau cording to Loewen. The alliance said Veritas to conduct electrical, fire and Wednesday its members use 686 facto- building safety assessments, and this ries and there is an overlap of about week released the first tranche of safety 300 factories used by members in both the alliance and accord. “Part of the thinking was it would be nice and logical if we were all singing Part of the thinking from the same song sheet and have a common set of standards we were in- was it would be nice specting to, with a full understanding that we are all three separate entities and logical if we were that are autonomous and can go our own way,” Loewen said. all singing from the One example of a common standard is the requirement that fire doors be installed on each floor of a multistory same song sheet and building, dividing the factory floor and the stairwell, Loewen said. Another have a common set common standard requirement is the installation of a fire alarm system. of standards we were Despite an agreement on common safety standards, there is no common inspecting to…” enforcement mechanism between the JANUARY 29, 2014 three entities, which will maintain their autonomy in that area, Loewen noted. — braD Loewen “There is still very much autonomy and there will be some differences how audits at 75 of the 200 factories it uses people do their enforcement and what in Bangladesh. The company also plans teeth they have,” Loewen said. to hire a team of 10 engineers to regu- The accord will begin to search for larly inspect factories and operate out technical engineering contract firms of its Bangladesh sourcing office. in three broad groups, including fire “We are working step by step in the @WWDSUMMITS • #WWDDIG • WWD.COM/DIGLA protection, electrical safety inspec- process of first harmonizing the stan- tion and structural safety inspection, dards, while companies are conduct- To attend: [email protected], 212.630.4212 he said. Eventually, the accord plans ing inspections and, on a parallel track, To sponsor: [email protected], 212.630.4824 to build a team of its own inspectors to we are doing an equivalency process supplement or replace the contractors. to make sure the inspections’’ are up to Loewen said the accord is in the pro- the harmonized standards,” Krilla said. SPONSORED BY: cess of developing a one-day inspection “Going forward, our committee of ex- per factory with coordination among perts will certify qualified inspectors.”

w21a006a;10.indd 6 11/20/13 7:51 PM 11202013195241 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Bornfree Aiming to Help HIV Fight

By MARC KARIMZADEH PLAYING DRESS-UP: Designers turned that in order to get back on track, out in force Tuesday night in Paris more color must be brought back into NEW YORK — Eliminating mother-to- for the final rehearsal of “Eternity the collection. The upcoming fall baby HIV transmissions by Dec. 31, 2015 Dress,” a performance starring Tilda collection is being developed by the — that’s the main goal of Bornfree, a Swinton and fashion curator Olivier existing creative team, and Closed will new initiative launched by John Megrue, Saillard of Palais Galliera. Christian continue to focus on denim as the core chief executive officer of Apax Partners, Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Clare Waight of the brand. — NORMA QUINTO with the support of the fashion commu- Keller, Haider Ackermann, Veronique nity, more specifically Council of Fashion Nichanian, Bruno Frisoni and Bouchra ORLA’S GIRL: The Duchess of Cambridge was Designers of America president Diane Jarrar were among those gathered in on the charity beat again Wednesday. von Furstenberg, Condé Nast artistic di- the small amphitheater at the École Her latest engagement saw her rector and Vogue editor in Chief Anna nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts. attend an education forum run by Wintour and Shopbop. Swinton exuded pure intensity the children’s mental health charity The initiative was unveiled at a as she was painstakingly measured, Place2Be — of which she is a patron — press event at the DVF studio in the and fitted with multiple muslins held in London’s Canary Wharf area. Meatpacking District Wednesday and various collars and sleeves. The Kate dressed in navy for the occasion, afternoon. evening climaxed when she struck wearing a pleated, above-the-knee navy To achieve the goal, the project en- iconic poses of the great couturiers, skirt by Orla Kiely (she’d worn a shirtdress listed 23 female designers who are including Paul Poiret, Chanel, also mothers to contribute to a special Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and André Bornfree collection, which will launch Courrèges, ending with Comme des on Shopbop.com this spring. They in- Garçons as she slipped off her pumps clude Miuccia Prada, Donna Karan, Diane von Furstenberg’s baby bag for Bornfree. and slid her feet into men’s brogues. Donatella Versace, Vera Wang, Carolina Gaultier was in raptures, calling Herrera, Isabel Marant, Phoebe Philo, private sector is committed to working in Swinton “a high priestess of body von Furstenberg, Victoria Beckham, partnership with the global health com- language and interpretation of clothes Sarah Burton, Consuelo Castiglioni, Tory munity to meet this goal.” — she is a sculptor in the way she Burch, Alberta Ferretti, Liya Kebede, More than 90 percent of HIV infec- rolls herself into fabric.” Clare Waight Keller, Jenna Lyons, tions in children are the result of mother- He also praised Saillard, calling Georgina Chapman, Keren Craig, Stella to-child-transmission, which can happen him “a master surgeon, capable of during pregnancy, childbirth or breast- demonstrating with the work and the feeding. While the danger of such trans- precision that makes couture what it mission has largely been eliminated in

is. There is a remarkable poetry and IMAGES Europe, the U.S. and other parts of the humor in this dissection of couture on West, it’s still a major issue in sub-Saha- the human body,” Gaultier said. GETTY ran countries. In 2012, 260,000 children

“A beautiful evocation of VIA were still newly infected with HIV. One our job as fashion designers, FOR MORE pill a day can prevent 98 percent of moth- our creative process,” SCOOPS, SEE PRESS The Bornfree logo. er-to-child HIV transmission. concurred Jarrar, lauding Cathy Beaudoin, president of the references to “our way WWD.com McCartney, Rachel Roy, Ivanka Trump Amazon Fashion (Amazon owns of working, our gestures.” PARKER/UK and model Gisele Bündchen. Shopbop), noted, “It’s exciting to offer — LAURENT FOLCHER The Duchess of Cambridge Each participating designer incorpo- our customers products created by such JULIAN rated two custom prints by Kenyan-born an amazing group of designers and,

in a Max Mara jacket and BY HEADING TO THE EXIT: The German Orla Kiely skirt. artist Wangechi Mutu for clothes and ac- most importantly, inspired by such a

casualwear brand Closed and creative PHOTO cessories with both mother and child in worthy cause.” Samantha Power, U.S. director Kostas Murkudis are parting ways. mind — von Furstenberg, for example, permanent representative to the United The Berlin-based designer was by Kiely for another charity visit designed a special baby bag and scarf for Nations, was on hand at the launch. brought into the company roughly a Tuesday) with a fitted blue zippered the initiative. “The Bornfree campaign humanizes one year ago to build up the sportswear jacket by Max Mara. — NINA JONES Megrue lauded the fashion industry of the most vital causes of our time — offerings and help raise Closed’s for having “so generously added their ensuring that the baton passed from one profile internationally. Murkudis FIELD TRIP: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon time, talent and voice to our collective ef- generation to the next is not tainted by could not be reached for comment. are heading for the Mediterranean city forts to meet the serious, but achievable, the poison of HIV/AIDS, so that a baby Closed said the collaboration was of Hyères. Word has it that the Kenzo challenge of eliminating mother-to-child begins his or her life with a fair chance an important step for the company, but designers are to preside over the transmission of HIV by Dec. 31, 2015. The of living it,” she said. divergent views about the vision and fashion jury at the 29th edition of the future direction of the brand led to the International Festival of Fashion and end of the cooperation. “We ultimately Photography there, which runs from could not agree on the direction of the April 25 to 28. Felipe Oliveira Baptista was collection,” said Closed chief executive the most recent jury president. Karl officer Gordon Gier. In addition, he said Lagerfeld and Yohji Yamamoto have also sales this fall were tough and noted done the honor. — LAURE GUILBAULT

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. departures,” he said. “They are not MEMO PAD all the same. There was no sense of rushing out of the door. In my case, my choice was based on an incredible WELCOME WAGON: Fashion designers, offer that came to me — it was pretty Spaces scribes, publicists and personalities much the definition of where I wanted made a stop a few blocks south of to go with my career. But I think the COMMERCIAL Times Square to the recently opened departures do relate to some major REAL ESTATE Skylark lounge Tuesday night to fete shifts happening in journalism where Eric Wilson’s new job as fashion news there are some improved economic MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- director at InStyle magazine. conditions for a lot of publications on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ With just 48 hours as an official that can make some offers.” Subscribe stores. If you sell to fashion accessory buyers, email: [email protected]. InStyle employee, Wilson, who was Wilson will cover red-carpet events Showrooms & Lofts often flanked by Ariel Foxman, the and continue to cover fashion weeks BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS today! Great ’New’ Office Space Avail SALES REP’S WANTED magazine’s editor, welcomed the both in New York and in Europe, but ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Experienced rep w/ existing clients or likes of Diane von Furstenberg, Francisco he won’t be writing reviews, Foxman strong leads in the eyewear industry. Fashion readers, Sun readers & Sun Costa, Zac Posen, Thakoon Panichgul, Vera explained. Instead, for the monthly, Call 800.289.0273 glasses. Major & specialty stores. Wang and Eddie Borgo, to name a few. Wilson will write a column on a timely E-mail resume to [email protected] Wilson’s former New York Times topic, as well as a designer profile. for individual Website www.roccooriginals.com buddies Stuart Emmrich and Cathy Horyn For instyle.com, he will pen a weekly Phone : 210-694-0840 mingled in the crowd. column and write about pertinent subscriptions, Breaking from the fray, Wilson news events, while also creating or email SMITH’S AMERICAN talked about his role at the magazine multimedia content. WORKWEAR Need experienced sales person to and all the huff surrounding the trove Reporting directly to Foxman, [email protected] sell work wear nationally to major department, chain stores and to of recent departures from the Times, Wilson won’t be in charge of anyone, mass merchants. which included Nate Silver, David Pogue, at least not yet. Please email resume to Brian Stelter, Matt Bai and Hugo Lindgren, “He’s not editing anyone’s work [email protected] the Sunday Magazine’s editor. starting today, but I can see structures “My feeling is very personal. I developing around him,” Foxman hinted, think it’s largely coincidental based explaining that Wilson will sit in on (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] on my personal knowledge of some all the news meetings and oversee the of the circumstances of some of the designer pages. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD 8 WWD thursday, november 21, 2013 WWD.COM Professor Lagerfeld Holds Court in Paris than beauty. I would do two collections of By MILES SOCHA and Karl Lagerfeld at 60 looks per year. There I learned things LAuRE GuILBAuLT Sciences Po in Paris. that one couldn’t learn today. Yo u know, in the Twenties, Patou employed some PARIS — With his mile-a-minute par- 3,000 workers, and it was as important as lance, sprinkled with salty humor and Chanel. There were some people who had snippets of German philosophy, Karl worked directly with Jean Patou. They Lagerfeld would make a riveting — if ex- taught me techniques of the Twenties hausting — professor. that were very different. In the Fifties, a On Tuesday, some 400 students, most- look would start with a bustier with bon- ly in communications, sat listening in- ing and people would add things on it. At tently as the fashion designer delivered Jean Patou was a man named Mr. Gabriel a master class at the elite Paris school who taught me everything about fabrics. Sciences Po, riffing on everything from France in the Fifties was the country with his love for paper to his aversion to fash- the most beautiful fabrics in the world. ions “that go straight from the runway to Mr. Gabriel had all the books of samples. I a museum.” saw extraordinary things. The head seam- stress, Mrs. Alphonsine, educated me in Seated behind a black podium, he aître responded to questions from Françoise- m all kinds of techniques, which are differ- Marie Santucci, editor in chief of ent than the ones used today.” Libération’s fashion supplement Next. n On the heritage of Coco Chanel:

Behind them was a projection of the Left Dominique “Camellias, pearls, tweed, black and Bank school’s emblem, sketched out by white, I took these elements and exagger- Lagerfeld in orange and black crayon. ated them. I made things that have never “I was born with a pencil in my hand,” photo by been in her collections, but that could he said, urging students to pursue a pro- the creative head of his signature fash- mornings for designing. And always after have been. I don’t go to the archives.” fession that’s a pleasure, not a chore. ion house, in addition to a long career reading the papers, because I like to be n On change: “I change over the time. I Born into a well-to-do family in designing for Chloé and numerous other informed. Paper is at the root of every- don’t have a fixed position. If you do in Hamburg, Germany, Lagerfeld recounted brands, not forgetting his photography, thing. Fashion starts with a sketch and fashion, you are dead. Yo u have to adapt why he did not pursue a university edu- publishing and filmmaking activities. ends up with photos. I don’t like comput- to the times.” cation, instead plunging himself into the Monitors flanking the stage flashed ers for designing. It’s a craft. Yo u have to n On getting inspired: “Just like appe- Paris couture world. with Twitter posts throughout the nearly know how to draw. I sit at several drawing tite, which comes with eating, it’s only “I never studied because I didn’t two-hour session as Lagerfeld unleashed boards at home, listening to music. Time work that gives you ideas. That’s why I have time,” he said, detailing how he a stream of witticisms and instructive an- flies. Then, I am served lunch. In the af- don’t believe in these people who spend won a fashion prize in 1954 from the ecdotes. Here, some highlights: ternoon, I go distribute my work, my port- two months on a beach trying to come up International Wool Secretariat alongside n On fashion in the early days: “Couture folio under the arm, like a young student.” with an inspiration. Fashion is a full-time Yves Saint Laurent and Colette Bracchi, in the Fifties was hardly as glamorous n On his passion for books: “I am a bib- job. And if you want to do this job seri- immediately earning him an offer to in- as it is today. The studios and workshops liophile, but I’m not one of those people ously, forget the part-time.” tern at Pierre Balmain. were sinister, sordid places and people who collect rare editions. Yes, books n On school: “Education is great, but Lagerfeld’s stern yet endearing mother, were paid poorly — horrible, really. Even are beautiful objects, but I’m more in- each one needs to find his calling and whom he referred to repeatedly during a the studio wasn’t a stimulating place. In terested in what’s inside, to nourish my educate himself. School is not enough if wide-ranging address, told him to pursue the days, there were no photocopiers.… knowledge. you don’t give it 300 percent.” the opportunity “and if it doesn’t work Chanel’s studio today, by comparison, “I love this quote from Horace Mann: n On music: “The tragedy of my life is out, you can always go back to school.” looks like a science fiction movie.” ‘A house without books is like a room that I don’t play the piano.” Of course, the designer would go on n On online retailing: “Today, it is amaz- without windows.’ At any given time, I’m n On corporate life: “I have the good to construct one of the most spectacular ing how you can buy online. That said, it usually reading 20 different books in sev- fortune to work with people who are 100 fashion careers in recent history, rising is interesting to go to boutiques. I like to eral languages.” percent behind me, and I am 100 percent to become the couturier at Chanel — a see the things that I buy. Luxury retailing n On his five years at Jean Patou: “After in line with them. position he’s held for 31 years; the de- is still something that should be done in three-and-a-half years at Balmain, I was “To me, hierarchy doesn’t exist. signer of ready-to-wear and fur designer real life.” offered to head Jean Patou. The house Everyone is as important, the ceo or my at Fendi — 48 years and counting, plus n On his daily rituals: “I tend to prefer was a sleeping beauty — more sleeping cleaning lady.”

to help them grow,” she said. As for the finalists who will face Lagerfeld and LVMH Launches Young Fashion Designer Prize company, “it’s an experience that’s quite {Continued from page one} the group — said LVMH is keen to sup- ture minister Frédéric Mitterrand. unique and they won’t forget.” elimination process that will award en- port young designers in an industry WWD first reported on April 15 in She, Claverie and Pierre-Yves trants with invaluable exposure. where breaking through can be difficult. Collections magazine that the fashion Roussel, chairman and chief executive To wit: Arnault said LVMH would fly “Creativity has always been at the center patronage project was brewing at LVMH officer of LVMH’s fashion division, are to 30 semifinalists to the French capital of what we do at LVMH,” she said. “As the under Claverie and Alizart. represent the company alongside design- during Paris Fashion Week next March leader in our industry, it’s our responsibil- Arnault noted that LVMH ers on the panel. to exhibit their wares in the auditorium ity to find talent, to help talent grow and to would continue to underwrite Asked if the expert commit- of its Avenue Montaigne headquarters. help designers structure their company.” other fashion competitions, tee and jury would use any spe- An “expert committee” of buyers, edi- According to Simons, every designer including the Andam prize in cific measuring sticks to choose tors and stylists is to tour the temporary has experienced the need for funding France and the International the winter, Arnault said, “Design showroom, meet the designers and vote and good advice. Festival of Fashion and talent is extremely important, obert to whittle down that group to the 10 final- “Creating a collection, a brand and run- Photography in Hyères, also r but you also need to have your ists who are to make 20-minute presenta- ning a business at the same time is such a in France. Its philanthropic feet on the ground. I think it’s tions to the jury. burden and supporting a young designer activities in fashion also in- going to be a discussion.” The competition is open to any de- early on and giving him or her the sup- clude an investment fund An internal team at LVMH

signer between the ages of 18 and 40 who port that will help them make the right for young designers created Jean-François will be at the disposal of the by has presented and sold at least two col- decisions — and [giving them] access to so by the French Ministry of Delphine Arnault victor to decide on how he or lections of women’s or men’s ready-to- much knowledge — is an amazing opportu- Culture and Communication, she should spend the 300,000 wear. Applications open today at lvmh- nity,” Simons told WWD. “Not so long ago, and a scholarship program photo euros. “For a young company, prize.com, and close Feb. 2. being a fashion designer was still a very and sponsored lecture theater at Central it’s a lot of money,” Arnault noted. In tandem with the big prize, for which vague notion for most young creative peo- Saint Martins in London. Ye t it is practical and strategic matters LVMH tapped French artist Jean-Michel ple, but with the huge surge in visibility for Arnault said it’s difficult to predict how — where clothes should be produced, how Othoniel to create the inaugural trophy, the the industry, for designers, for ‘behind-the- many designers might apply for the LVMH they should be priced, and if and when to company is to award 10,000-euro ($13,500) scenes’ access, it has become more real prize, but the Web site will highlight a se- launch accessories or a second line — scholarships — and a one-year post in the and probably more desirable.” lection of the best submissions on a week- that tend to consume fashion newbies. design studio of an LVMH brand — to three Tisci, a relatively unknown Italian de- ly basis. The plan is to keep the site and “They always have tons of questions, fashion graduates. “It’s what every student signer with a small signature brand when the process interactive and dynamic, with so we have a professional team of execu- dreams of,” Arnault enthused. he joined Givenchy in 2005 at the age of amateur scouts — who can post pictures tives with long experience in the group The group’s fashion houses include 30, couldn’t agree more. of designers worthy of notice — vying for a to help them if needed,” she said. such names as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Fendi, “There is nothing more important in chance to become a member of the expert The prize was initiated without the Givenchy, Loewe, Pucci and Céline. our business than hearing young creative committee in March. intent of LVMH investing in the winner. The 38-year-old daughter of luxury titan voices, giving them strength, confidence The LVMH prize comes at a time “It’s just to nurture them and help them Bernard Arnault, who had been Dior’s and attention,” he said. “I was given an when “many people all over the world grow,” she stressed. deputy managing director since 2008, in amazing chance at a very young age, so are interested in fashion, and that’s very In recent months, Arnault has been September became second-in-command this means a lot to me.” new,” said Claverie, adding that “the instrumental in LVMH’s recent invest- at Vuitton and was put in charge of all the Arnault said LVMH has a long-term Internet is a fabulous tool for them to ments in Nicholas Kirkwood and J.W. house’s product-related activities. commitment to its namesake prize, and reach us, and for us to reach them.” Anderson, for example. Delphine Arnault — who was joined assembled an internal team to coordi- Arnault noted that all participants — Asked if she detects a new wave of in a hushed conference room by Jean- nate the undertaking and the dedicated not only the final winner — should ben- designers, or a particular strain of talent Paul Claverie, an adviser to her father Web site. Heading up that effort is Mark efit from the competition. from today’s new generation, she replied: and head of corporate philanthropy at Alizart, formerly adviser to French cul- “Even if they’re not selected, it’s going “Talent is always rare and unique.”

w21a008a;10.indd 8 11/20/13 7:15 PM 11202013191539 MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS Style Crackdown Eminence Capital offered an investor Embattled Toronto mayor Rob Ford has presentation stating its case for a merger so many fashion faults that some between The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. and wardrobe rehabilitation is definitely Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. Page MW4 in order. Page MW4

November 21, 2013

NEW FRONTIERS Neil Barrett

From left: Cotton and polyamide T-shirt and Thom Browne cotton, polyamide and spandex pants. Branching Out Cotton and polyamide sweater and shorts. New collection will be less extreme and hang on clothing floor.

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

THOM BROWNE is launching a lower- priced line for fall 2014 centered around the classic gray suit — just don’t call it a commercial collection. The designer, best known for his shrunk- en silhouettes and ankle-baring pant lengths, will introduce a line of suits, shirts, coats and neckwear with proportions that are “slightly less extreme” than his runway collection. Jackets will be more classic, a bit longer and the lapels will be slightly wider. Trouser length will be hemmed to the shoe with no break. The line will be marketed under the name Thom Browne, and retail prices are about 15 to 20 percent lower than the Thom Browne New York runway collection. But the designer bristled when asked if this should be considered a commercial collection. “It will definitely reach more people,” he told WWD. “But the word [com- mercial] has negative connotations. It will still have the same quality as my collection, but it will broaden the business.” He said the line is targeted at a man “who likes the personality of my clothing but wants a more classic proportion and fit.” This line meets that challenge, he believes. “It’s a true American collection for people ALEX BADIA who appreciate classic, well-made clothing.” Browne said he has “wanted to do this for some time” and a recent beefing up of his internal staff has afforded him the time. “I fi- nally have the resources to do it now,” he said.

STYLED BY ARTISTS; The designer described the line as “an

LVA homage to the world of tailored clothing and the stores that do tailored clothing really well.” Although the collection can be worn for business, it’s not just a business suit, Browne said. “It’s for a man who wants to look good, wear tailored clothing, likes fashion and wants something that fits really well.” AT STARKWEATHER ANDY There will be two styles of suits: a clas- sic roll-lapel three-button jacket with a double vent paired with a flat-front, back- strap trouser; and a sack-style jacket with Moving a slightly looser body, softer shoulder and single vent paired with a belt-loop trouser. Prices will start at $2,200. NY MODELS; GROOMING BY Thom Browne New York suit prices start at about $2,800. “I want it to be approachable,” he said, Men “but for the quality, it’s a good starting point.” For the overcoats, Browne has created a ball-collar version as well as a chesterfield. Athleticism was all the rage for the spring season. Every Prices for these will start at $2,800. Shirts will be available in spread-collar, designer has his or her own interpretation and favorite point-collar and button-down styles, and sports, whether it’s baseball, basketball or surfing. For they will be pressed and packaged in custom shirt boxes. Retail prices will start at $350. more on this active trend, see pages MW2 and MW3. AND JAN AT MODELS: FLORIAN ELI SCHMIDT; Browne said the shirts are not “washed and dried” like those in his runway collection.

PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 Men’s Week

PHOTOS BY ELI SCH J U M P I J N’ A C Christopher K From left: Sweatsh shorts, both in c

Poly blend trench, K shirt and s

Givenchy By Ami

Riccardo Tisci From left: Leather and cotton jacket. From left: Sweatshirt, shorts and leggings, Cotton sweatshirt, F all in cotton. cotton jacket tied on waist and wool pants. Cotton jacket, silk shirt, cotton parka skirt, cotton shorts and cotton L leggings. A S H Athletic references such as the modern cyclist and the street surfer continue to dominate the designer landscape for spring, where leisure activities are top of mind for the man on the move. — ALEX BADIA Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 MW3

HMIDT Calvin Klein Collection From left: Polyester, nylon and elastane sweatshirt and wool pants.

Polyester and elastane jacket and cotton and acrylic pants.

Kane 3.1 Phillip Lim hirt and From left: Cotton and rayon cotton. sweatshirt and shorts.

cotton Cotton T-shirt and cupro shorts. and cotton pants. CAMPUZANO

Hood by Air LUIS

From left: Shirt,

shorts and pants, ASSISTANT: all in cotton.

Shirt and pants, FASHION both in cotton. ARTISTS; LVA AT STARKWEATHER ANDY BY GROOMING MODELS; NY AT JAN AND FLORIAN MODELS: N.Y.; Patrik Ervell BROOKLYN, From left: Nylon

and jersey shirt BEAST, and cotton shorts. BKLYN

Silk shirt, nylon AT and jersey zipped undershirt and cotton shorts. PHOTOGRAPHED MW4 WWD THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 Men’s Week

be targeting are those “who appreci- ate tailored clothing and can handle THOM BROWNE LAUNCHING that price point. It’s not mass.” The new collection will be made exclusively in the U.S., he said, declining to name the manu- LESS EXTREME COLLECTION facturers with whom he is working. “It will be a well-fitting, good- looking suit that doesn’t push too far, {Continued from page MW1} “When I decided to do this,” he said, twill, wool flannel and worsted wool stores. The Thom Browne New York but it doesn’t push too little either,” The styling is based on tradi- “I wanted it to be able to stand on in a variety of weights to appeal to label is generally hung on the de- he said. “I can’t imagine any guy tional and classic American sensi- its own but still have the identity different markets. A made-to-mea- signer floor. “I want it to sit on the who doesn’t want to look like that.” bility — core values the designer of Thom Browne.” The fabrics are sure component will also be offered. clothing floor, not a fashion floor,” he Browne said he’s not expecting to has become known for since he in- “classic American” and “mascu- The line will be sold in the men’s said. He declined to mention specif- add an even lower-priced offering to troduced his first collection in 2001. line,” he said, and will include step clothing departments of high-end ic names, but said the stores he will his arsenal. “This felt really good and right to me to expand the business in a natural way,” he said. “I think it will attract the same customer and a new customer who knows my collection but thought it was too much.” Last year, the designer intro- duced a capsule collection called Thom Grey, a youthful, university-in- spired sportswear line that was sold at Barneys New York, Harrods and other stores in Asia. Prices were sig- nificantly below that of the runway collection with outerwear selling for $795 to $1,100; jackets from $725 to $1,000; trousers for $325 to $550, and oxford shirts starting at $195. Browne said Thom Grey was a one-year-only project and has been discontinued. “Sometimes success is not the best thing,” he said. “It worked really well, but we couldn’t keep up with the success. Someday we may look into it again.” Browne launched his first ready- to-wear collection in 2003 and three years later signed on with to design its Black Fleece collection, where suits retail for $1,400 to $1,600. He also designs Moncler’s Gamme Bleu men’s col- lection. The designer sold a major- ity stake in his business to Japan’s Cross Co. in 2009 when sales were $6.3 million. He operates a shop in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighborhood Looks from the and in March opened his first store outside the U.S., in Tokyo. Browne

ASH REYNOLDS Thom Browne collection, said the plan is to eventually open launching for fall. more stores, but no other locations

PHOTOS BY have been determined.

Man of Eminence Pushes Its Position THE WEEK ROB FORD: C- by VICKI M. YOUNG $48-a-share offer that has since been with- drawn too low. The purpose of its investor The dangerous mixture of overeating, The lack of hair is the SHARES OF Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. presentation is to push Men’s Wearhouse’s heavy drinking and crack cocaine least of his problems. inched up slightly Wednesday as hedge board to hold exploratory discussions obviously leads to a blotchy and ruddy fund Eminence Capital offered an in- with the Jos. A. Bank board, noting that complexion. Clean up your act, or vestor presentation to push for a merger first Jos. A. Bank must be engaged in dia- continue the party lifestyle but use a between Jos. A. Bank and its rival, The logue so that it is positioned to pay more. cover-up foundation. Men’s Wearhouse Inc. Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo His look is Although Jos. A. Bank and Men’s Inc. and the adviser to Jos. A. Bank, said, reminiscent of an Wearhouse operate in largely the same “Due diligence is extremely important in He needs to buy made-to-measure evil character from locations, Eminence, Men’s Wearhouse’s this situation.…All this is in the hands of everything so he can button the neck “Return of the Jedi.” single largest shareholder, believes that the Men’s Wearhouse board and share- of the shirt. He already has a major the value created from combining the holders. They need to resolve their differ- tendency toward sloppiness, and an two is “massive, with the potential for ences if we are going to move forward.” open collar makes it even worse. $2 billion of value to be created.” Executives at Men’s Wearhouse did Never, never, never Eminence said it didn’t initially not respond to a request for comment. unbutton the jacket, invest in Men’s Wearhouse to agi- Men’s Wearhouse has been stead- The geometric navy and light and get a stronger tate for change. It said it likes Men’s fast in refusing to hold talks with Jos. blue tie plays well with the color shoulder to keep the Wearhouse as an investment due to A. Bank. Eminence is seeking a special of the shirt and suit. suit in place. scale, attractive niche and core busi- meeting of Men’s Wearhouse sharehold- nesses, and earnings upside follow- ers to amend Men’s Wearhouse’s bylaws. ing the decision to sell noncore busi- The hedge fund is not currently seeking One of the saving graces nesses and focus on the higher-margin any change in the composition of Men’s is that he altered the suit and tuxedo sector. Nonetheless, it Wearhouse’s board. sleeve length correctly. IMAGES There are few instances called the proposed merger with Jos. A. Eminence’s chief executive officer Bank a “compelling opportunity.” Ricky C. Sandler said in an interview

GETTY in fashion where In addition to owning 9.8 percent of with CNBC on Wednesday, “This is a He obviously doesn’t Men’s Wearhouse with its 4.7 million board that I think has acted in a way go to the gym, so is this there is little hope for shares, Eminence is a stakeholder of that I find astonishing given the situa- an oversize lunch box? Jos. A. Bank with 1.4 million shares. The tion. In my 19 years of being in business, Please use a traditional improvement, but this hedge fund has also hired Moelis & Co as I can’t remember a board that has acted briefcase. is one of those times. its financial adviser. this irresponsibly in front of an opportu- Shares of Jos. A. Bank rose 0.6 per- nity like this.”

VIA STAR OSORIO/TORONTO The beleaguered mayor The square-toe ankle cent to close at $49.96 in Nasdaq trad- Sandler also said he’s in it for the ing, while Men’s Wearhouse shares long haul. “If it takes us until next boot does nothing to of Toronto needs a CARLOS save the outfit. He should were down 0.7 percent to $46.38 in Big October to get full control of the board BY definitely invest in a pair miracle makeover and Board trading. and effect a merger here, we’re prepared Eminence said it believes that Jos. to do that. We have a big investment

PHOTO of high-end dress shoes. a stint in rehab. A. Bank should offer a “significant pre- here, but it’s not so large we can’t afford mium” for Men’s Wearhouse, calling the to wait,” he said.