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Welcome to Affable Nicaragua embraces travelers with offerings of volcanic landscapes, colonial architecture, sensational beaches and pristine forests that range from breathtaking to downright incredible.

Beaches Colonial Splendor Whether it’s dipping your toes into the Nicaragua’s colonial splendor comes in two crystalline Caribbean or paddling out to distinct, but equally appealing, flavors. The the crashing waves of the pounding , elegant streetscapes of Granada have been Nicaragua’s beaches always deliver the entrancing travelers for centuries with their goods. The big barrels of Rivas are revered architectural grace. It’s Nicaragua’s best- in surfing circles while the clear waters of preserved colonial town and boasts a me- the Corn Islands are superb for snorkeling. ticulously restored cathedral, well-groomed More sedentary beach bums can choose plaza and perfectly maintained mansions between accessible slices of sand lined with that shelter lush internal courtyards. Far less fine restaurants and happening bars or polished, working-class León offers a differ- natural affairs backed by a wall of rainfor- ent colonial experience where your crum- est. Even the best beaches in the country bling 300-year-old houses come interspersed are refreshingly free of development, so with revolutionary murals and architectural you can experience them just as nature masterpieces housing corner stores. It’s a intended. vibrant city that, while proud of its heritage, is too busy to feel like a museum. Outdoor Adventures Looking for the ultimate rush? Nicara- Getting off the Beaten Track gua’s diverse geography, intense energy There are few destinations with such beauty and anything-goes attitude is perfect for that are as undeveloped as Nicaragua. Before exhilarating outdoor adventures. Get ready you know it, you’ve dropped off the tourist to check a whole gamut of new experiences trail and into a world of majestic mountains, off your list including: surfing down an cooperative farms, thronged with active , diving through underwater wildlife and empty jungle-clad beaches. caves, canoeing through alligator-infested Forge on and discover remote indigenous wetlands, swimming across sea channels communities, overgrown pre-Columbian between tiny white-sand islands and land- ruins and untouched . No matter ing a 90-plus-kg tarpon beneath a Spanish how far you go, you’ll always find friendly fortress in the middle of the jungle. There’s locals who are more than willing to share no signs, no crowds and no holding back. their culture with strangers. 5 Above: A bungalowLittle on CornA Island Above: Upon arriving in Nicaragua, like so many others I was captivated by the Why I Love NicaraguaWhy I Love By Alex Egerton, Author For more about our authors, see page 320 around the bays, up the jungle creeks and around the stunning PearlKeys. Every trip’s a new experience. were waiting on my doorstep and up and left to the wild Caribbean Coast. Now I live on the placid shores of Pearl Lagoon where I spend most of my spare time paddling my sea kayaks youthful energy and crumbling colonial charm of León, a city quite unlike others I had known. But after settling down there I soon identified the unparalleled adventure opportunities that

MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES © 8

Nicaragua’s Top 15 9 ANDREW BARGERY / ALAMY © With no cars and no noise, just white- sand beaches and secluded coves

Little Corn Island 2 mixing it with the crystal-clear Caribbean, Little Corn Island (p237) is the paramount place to take break a from the big city. Thereplentyis keepoccupiedyou to during including theday, diving with hammerhead sharksand through underground caves, kitesurfing scrambling breeze the and stiff jungle-covered over headlands. Andthere’s some Add night, at too. just enoughdo to surpriseno andit’s mix the foodgreatto leave. to hard findso many that it - -

MLENNY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Catedral de Granada

Granada (p83) is a town of immense and palpable magnetism. theAt heart

can take up the better part From of a day. there, it’s off to explore the myriad wild areas, islands, volcanoes and artisan vil lages nearby. lonialhomes and churches, and a lilting air that brings the city’s spirited past into here trips Most focus. tight present-day dawdling simply and foot, on end and begin churchcolonial to restaurant galleryto from 1 of the city’s charms are the picture-perfect cobblestone streets, polychromatic co Granada CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IMAGES © JOHN COLETTI / GETTY IMAGES © - - Isla de Ometepe (p112) has it all: all: it has (p112) Ometepe de Isla Lago de Nicaragua’s beloved center beloved Nicaragua’s de Lago piece,

Isla Ometepe de 4 walking by cut hillsides volcanoes,twinlush ziplines, archaeological remains, tracks, waterfalls,lapping birdlife, and monkeys laid-back a and doorstep, your at waves as now the in travelers keeps that air island para lost this through way their make they island’s the heart of the At again. found dise areas camping hostels, cool the are charms scenes.Custom- peaced-outtraveler and luxury high-end experience from your fit huts. hippie groovy-groupie to lodges - - - León

View fromView

León both enchantsLeónboth and

A royal city revolutionarywith royal A under currents,

ums and downtown area, before headingandarea,downtownbeforeums honey-blonde outto beaches, volcanoes towns.cowboy andOldWest Catedral Sandinistaunithe by revolutionand now 120-horsepowerversity anda (p148) party scene.Come sunrise,can goodspend you a exploringmuse day Catedralthe (p143), baffles. Within the city, you’ll find an find baffles.you’ll artsy, city, Within the slightlyedgy vibeoriginally fueledthe by León 3 3 4

Nicaragua’s Top 15

PLAN YOUR TRIP 10 11 PLAN YOUR TRIP Nicaragua’s Top 15 7 6 - A visit to Nicaragua’s coffeezone is about

cupping session. After this, you’ll savor your morning cup in a whole new way. Coffee beans the mountainsfrom of 7 more than just sipping plenty of joe, it’s about get ting out and seeing where it all comes from. Hike among the bushes shaded by ethereal cloud forest andaround Jinotega (p189) pickripecherries alongside community hostsa your in farmingcooperative near MatagalpaAnd (p194). why stop there when you can follow the beans to the roasting plant and then learn to identify flavors in a Coffee Country -

PETE NIESEN / ALAMY © MARVIN DEL CI / GETTY IMAGES © 5 As you approach the dozen tiny islands

beers from a mysterious supply, leaving you more timeswim, to snorkel, spot sea turtles, or just lie back in your hammock and take in the idyllic panoramic views. waters that make up the Pearl Keys (p230), you will enter the realms of the ultimate shipwreck fan tasy. Fortunately, you’llbe marooned with a capable Creole guide that will cook up a spectacular seafood meal and source ice-cold Pearl Keys 6 ringed by snow-white sand and brilliant Caribbean - - - -

Río San Juan is

Once favored by pirates and prospec

(p254) over the rapids at . the river’s entire length is the grand Spanish fort noisy monkeys. The only artificial attraction along etrable jungle that shelters and troupes of the Reserva Biológica In dio-Maíz (p256), an impen ing waters while its lower reaches are dominated by All along the scores river, of birds nest on branches overhanging its slow surg today the exalted by nature lovers. 5 tors as a path to riches, Río San Juan

JOHN GIUSTINA / ALAMY © WAYNE LYNCH / GETTY IMAGES © - - - - - Woman painting Islas Solenti The name (p247) are

the sounds of nature and shooting stars illuminate the speckled night sky. havingEven been there, you still find it hard to be lieve it’s real. a balsa-wood carved chicken Islas Solentiname 10 straight out of a fairy tale. simplyYou must visit in order to experience the magic of this remote jungle-covered archi pelago where a community of exceptionally talented artists live and work among the wild animals that are their inspiration. It’s a place where an en lightened priest inspired a village to construct a hand some church alive with 9

CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IMAGES © Head to Nicaragua’s southern Pacific coast

shore to lay her eggs at the end of one of nature’s most inspiring and remarkable journeys. Turtles at La Flor 9 between July and January to witness sea turtles by the thousands come to shore to lay their eggs at Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor (p137). There’s a decent beach here, as well, but the highlightis a night tour (generally from nearby ), where, if lucky, you’re you’ll see a leatherback or olive ridley mama come to -

-

SanJuan del

Nicaraguasparked into internationalstardom

tionhere work for every bodythe inyour crew(even boogieboarders). abilities,but the chillaxed surfcamps, beach parties andcool breezes add the to vibe,making beach a vaca back,reefed-out, soulful anddownright brilliant. The starsthe of scene arethe longrideable waves that fit the bill for surfers of all dudettes.And the surfing scenenorth and south of regionalhub Sur(p127) remains cooled- onthe tanned-and-wake of tonedsurfer dudes and Surfing near San Juan Sur del 8 8

Nicaragua’s Top 15

PLAN YOUR TRIP 12 13 PLAN YOUR TRIP Nicaragua’s Top 15 11 10

JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES ©

-

- Volcán Volcán

artisan villages of of artisan villages Hovering above the above Hovering

sunset, an eerie bat tour tour bat eerie an sunset, adventure. your off tops take you to lava caves and caves lava to you take butterfly Come gardens. you relish the million-dollar the relish you short treks Super-fun views. sulfurous columns of gas of columns sulfurous as sky the toward billow active volcanoes, and it’s it’s volcanoes, and active the see to prettyexciting ture seekers alike. This is is This alike. seekers ture most region’s the of one singular highlight not to be to not highlight singular volcanophiles, by missed adven and lovers nature Masaya and its surrounding its and Masaya a are (p73) park national Nicaragua’s Central Pla Central Nicaragua’s smoldering the teau, 11 Volcán MasayaVolcán

MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES © KIKE CALVO / GETTY IMAGES © Tiscapa Zipline canopy tour, brawling doesn’t storico Nacional Loma de Big- make it ontomany traveler top10 Hi

rque Canopy in Managua Tour 13 lists, and one of the best partsof visiting this city is getting But away. you won’t have Within to go far. the city’s confines, the Parque Historico Nacional Loma de Tiscapa (p43) is home the to silhouetted statue of AugustoSandino and wasonce the site of the presidential palace. Today the highlight of the park is a homegrown canopy-tour operation that swings you through the lush foliage. Pa 13

PAUL KENNEDY / GETTY IMAGES © - - Baby

From the colorfulthe From parakeets flying busyManagua ubiquitous over to

wildlife is everywherewildlife is Nicaragua. in

green iguanagreen you go, keep your binocularsyour keep go, handy. you sawás (p214) to spot three typesthreespot mon to of sawás(p214) toucans andkeys, tapirs, fanswhilereptile themissgetting closewantto to not will Wherever Guatuzos(p251). alligatorsLos of Dedicatesome energypursuit the and to discoversome trulyphenomenal you’ll naturalspectacles. ruggedtheHead into mountainsrainforest-covered Bothe of iguanas scratching roof, hotel acrossyour exotic Wildlife-Watching 12 12

Nicaragua’s Top 15

PLAN YOUR TRIP 14 15 PLAN YOUR TRIP Nicaragua’s Top 15 - 15 14 - - ReservaNatural EsteroPa The dre Ramos (p167) is a vastnature a is Ramos(p167) dre

a universe’s worth of birds. While this is a worthbirds.is While this of universe’s a cornerwildNicaragua, of basictourist serv spider-webbing the into you get ices will beachesthe forest,mangroveto where sea turtlestheireggs lay andgoodsurf domi localnates, andinto communities. Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos 15 reservelocatedfarnorthwestern the in cornerNicaragua. of Thelargest remaining Centralforest mangrovein America, the ,reserve home to is alligators and

volcano board and rip-roar

What goes up must come down. But why walk, when you can strap on a

Volcán in northwestern

dusty-bottomed descent. (p159). operators Tour in León will even provide you with cool jumpsuits for your meter Nicaragua’s Reserva Natural Pilas–El Hoyo one of the best spots on the planetto dig this new adrenaline sport is atop 700-plus- yourway down slopea of fine ? That’s the genesis of volcano surfing. And 14 custom-built Cerro Negro Volcano BoardingVolcano on

CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IMAGES © PICTUREGARDEN / GETTY IMAGES © 16

Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide p290

Currency When to Go Córdoba (C$)

Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Language Tropical climate, rain year round Spanish

Visas Generally not required for stays up to three months .

Money Matagalpa ATMs in most large GO Nov–Apr towns . Credit cards accepted in larger hotels and restaurants . Managua Corn Island GO Nov–Dec GO Feb–Apr

Cell Phones Local SIM cards work in any unblocked North San Juan del Sur San Carlos GO Nov–Apr American or Latin GO Feb–Apr American phone . Other phones may need to be set to roaming . High Season Shoulder Low Season Time (Dec–Apr) (Nov) (May–Oct) Central Standard Time ¨¨Prices increase by ¨¨Rains ease ¨¨Heavy rains make (GMT/UTC minus six up to 25% in popular throughout the some roads in rural hours) tourist spots . Pacific but Caribbean areas difficult to pass ¨¨Make reservations still wet . and mountain hiking in advance for ¨¨Cool weather and trails slippery . beach-side green countryside ¨¨Biggest swell on accommodations . make for best Pacific side pulls a ¨¨Hot, sunny and trekking . crowd to the best dry conditions ¨¨Coffee harvest breaks . throughout the energizes northern ¨¨Advanced country . region . reservations generally not necessary . 17 Websites Daily Costs Arriving in Lonely Planet (www .lonely- Budget: Nicaragua planet com). A comprehensive Less than US$25 Managua International Airport online overview of the country (p60) Official taxis inside the for travelers . ¨¨Guesthouse: US$10-15 airport meet all incoming flights

¨¨Typical meal: US$4 TRIP YOUR PLAN Vianica com. (www vianica. . and charge around US$20 to com/traveling) Log on to this ¨¨Museum admission: US$2 most local destinations . During interactive map and click on ¨¨Local bus: US$0 .15 the day, cheaper licensed your route to find Nicaraguan collective taxis wait outside road conditions, travel-time Midrange: the domestic terminal . If you’re estimates and more . heading out of Managua, it’s US$25-75 possible to prearrange a pick-up Intur (www visitanicaragua. .

¨¨Midrange hotel: US$20-40 with a private shuttle service . N

com/ingles) The official govern- eed ment website is in English and ¨¨Restaurant meal: US$10-12

Spanish, with lots of cheerful, ¨¨Adventure tour: US$25 Getting Around to vague information and an awe- ¨¨Short taxi ride: US$2 Transport in Nicaragua is func- K some photo gallery . tional rather than comfortable now Latin American Network Top End: and probably more chaotic than you are used to . Information Center (www .lanic . More than US$75 utexas edu/la/ca/nicaragua). An Flights Domestic flights are ¨¨Luxury hotel: US$80 excellent portal with academic moderately priced and the fast- and -oriented offerings . ¨¨Gourmet meal: US$18 est way to get you where you’re ¨¨Car hire: US$40 going; however, they only serve more far-off destinations . They Important ¨¨Internal flight: US$100 Numbers are often slightly delayed, but rarely canceled . Opening Hours Car Renting a car enables Nicaragua country Opening hours vary wildly in % travel at your own pace and code 505 Nicaragua as there are many access to off-the-beaten-track informal and family-run estab- International % 00 destinations . There is not much lishments . General office hours access code traffic on the roads and driving are from 9am to 5pm . Some Fire % 115 in Nicaragua is fairly stress-free offices and shops, especially (from cell phones) % 911 (once you learn how to handle in rural areas, close for lunch the traffic cops) . Police % 118 from noon to 2pm . Government Ambulance % 128 departments usually only attend Buses Nicaragua’s fleet of the public in the mornings, but old-school buses are slow and Exchange Rates this varies between depart- uncomfortable but will get you ments . Cheaper eateries usually anywhere you want to go for Australia A$1 24 95. open for breakfast and lunch next to nothing . There are more while more formal restaurants comfortable, but far from luxuri- Canada C$1 24 .21 serve lunch and dinner . ous, coach services to some Euro zone €1 32 44. long-distance destinations . Banks 8:30am–4:30pm Japan ¥100 25 89. Bars noon–midnight New NZ$1 20 .20 Zealand Clubs 8pm–3am Serbia 100DIN €0 88. Government Offices 8am–1pm UK £1 38 .19 Museums 9am–noon & 2–5pm US US$1 24 .30 Restaurants noon–10pm For current exchange rates Shops 9am–6pm see www xe. com. For much more on transport , see p298 18

First Time Nicaragua For more information, see Survival Guide (p290)

Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip ¨¨Make sure your passport is ¨¨Always go for a window seat in public transport, the landscapes valid for at least six months are absolutely breathtaking . ¨¨Check latest visa ¨¨Take some Spanish classes at the beginning of your trip . requirements online (see are outgoing and friendly but few have foreign- p296) language skills . ¨¨Arrange travel insurance ¨¨Hire local guides wherever possible, they’re cheap and you’ll with medical evacuation learn not only about the attraction you’re visiting but also about the cover (see p294) culture . ¨¨Inform your debit/credit card issuer that you are What to Wear traveling to The heat in Nicaragua can be oppressive, so you’ll probably ¨¨Organize vaccinations spend most of your time in lightweight t-shirts and shorts or against hepatitis A and cotton trousers. If you’re heading to the northern highlands, typhoid and consult your you’ll probably make use of a medium pullover for the cool doctor about malaria evenings. prophylactics Note that in general, men in Nicaragua don’t wear shorts unless practicing sports. Go for jeans and short-sleeved shirt or polo shirt if you are going out with locals. On the beach women going topless is almost never ac- What to Pack ceptable and in rural areas bikinis may draw unwanted ¨¨Sturdy walking shoes attention; consider swimming in shorts and a t-shirt like the ¨¨Comfortable sports locals. sandals ¨¨Insect repellent containing Sleeping DEET Outside absolute peak periods in major tourist destinations, ¨¨An emergency supply of it’s rarely necessary to reserve accommodations in advance in US dollars in small bills Nicaragua. See p290 for more accommodation information. ¨¨A two-pronged electrical ¨¨Hospedajes These cheap guesthouses are often family run and adapter are sometimes the only option in smaller towns . ¨¨A lightweight raincoat ¨¨Hotels Larger, more polished and less personal; they offer more capable of resisting tropical facilities including reception and often a restaurant . downpours ¨¨Hostels Traveler’s hostels with dormitories and common areas ¨¨Contact lens solution and are only found in the main tourist areas . other personal toiletries ¨¨Ecolodges Usually at the higher end of the market, these offer comfortable rooms surrounded by nature . 19 ERIC L. WHEATER / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / L. WHEATER ERIC Money ATMs are widespread in most midsized towns in Nicaragua, but you’ll need

to stock up on cash before TRIP YOUR PLAN heading to rural areas. Visa is the most widely accepted card followed by cards on the MasterCard network. Amex is not generally ac- cepted. Most Nicaraguan ATMs charge a fee (around F

US$3) on top of what your irst bank charges.

Credit cards are widely T accepted in larger towns ime but rarely in rural areas N

apart from in higher end AG ICAR hotels. US dollars are the alternative currency and are widely accepted, but for u smaller items using Córdo- a bas is cheaper and easier. It’s worth carrying an emergency supply of dollars in case you have problems Girl in Nueva Segovia with your card. For more information, see p294. Etiquette ¨¨Greetings A firm handshake for men and a peck on the cheek Bargaining for women . All-out haggling is not really part of Nicaraguan ¨¨Titles When addressing Nicaraguans add Don (for men) or culture; however, a few Doña (for women) before their given name . back-and-forths at an ¨¨Drinking If you are sharing a bottle of rum, use the supplied outdoor market or over a shot glass to measure your drink; don’t poor freely from the hotel room is considered bottle . acceptable. Language Tipping Even in major tourist destinations, very few Nicaraguans Tipping is not widespread speak English. However, Nicaraguans are outgoing and in Nicaragua except in the friendly and will patiently listen if you make the effort to following situations: communicate. Learning a few basic phrases in Spanish ¨¨Guides Tipping guides is will make traveling in Nicaragua a much more reward- recommended as this often ing experience and is highly recommended if you plan on makes up the lion’s share of traveling to remote rural destinations. Hiring a translator their salary . to accompany you around town or on longer trips is af- fordable – ask at your hotel. ¨¨Restaurants A tip of around 10% is expected for table On the Caribbean coast English speakers will have no service . Some higher end problem communicating with Creole residents, although it restaurants automatically add may take some getting use to the accent and grammar. this to the bill . See Language (p303) for more information. 20

If You Like

Volcán Hike up San Rafael del Norte Sur- Beaches through cloud forest to reach rounded by peaks, this charming a chilly jade green crater lake . small town is centered around The Pacific has the waves, (p123) the light-filled Templo Parroquial the Caribbean’s got the reefs. San Rafael Arcángel . (p187) Volcán Perched Little Corn Island Brilliant regally at the top of Lago de turquoise waters meet snow Managua, its perfect cone is a white sand in secluded coves on symbol of Nicaragua . (p158) this enchanted isle . (p237) Coffee Climb the Volcán Cosigüina Matagalpa and Jinotega de- Playa El Coco A spectacular remnants of what was Central partments have the pedigree stretch of sparkling sand framed America’s biggest volcano to look but Estelí and little-visited by imposing forest-covered out over three countries . (p168) headlands . (p137) Nueva Segovia also produce Volcán Accessible some outstanding beans. Pearl Keys Live out your cloud forest with great hiking and La Bastilla Ecolodge Hike shipwreck fantasies beneath the even better bird-watching . (p102) coconut palms on this group of through immense shade-grown tiny, idyllic Caribbean islands . coffee plantations before (p230) improving your cupping skills at the laboratory . (p192) Charming fishing Colonial Towns village with a sweeping brown- San Ramón Try your hand pick- sand beach . (p137) Granada Charge your batteries, ing coffee beans at local farms Nicaragua’s wonderfully pre- then visit a community roasting Playa Aserradores Long, smooth served colonial showpiece lays plant . (p200) stretch of sand with a powerful, on the charm from the moment Selva Negra Follow the coffee hollow beach break . (p166) you get off the bus . (p83) from bush to cup or just sit by León Energetic and unpreten- the mist-covered lake and enjoy tious, this gregarious city has a fresh brewed mug . (p201) stunning colonial streetscapes, Volcanoes Área Protegida Miraflor Com- awe-inspiring churches and fine bine your coffee tour with a spot cosmopolitan eateries . (p139) Volcán Masaya Watch of bird-watching or a visit to parakeets return to nest among Ciudad Antigua Boasting a waterfalls surrounded by cloud clouds of sulfuric gases above remarkable Moorish-influenced forest .(p177) visible pools of lava . (p73) 17th-century church, this is one of Nicaragua’s oldest towns . (p185)

Wildlife IF YOU LIKE… CIGARS Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Make sure to join some factory tours in Estelí (p173) Flor Watching thousands of where you can watch classic stogies being hand marine turtles arriving on this rolled. beach to lay their eggs is one 21 PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like

. - (p102) (p112) . . Paddle Paddle (p231) . (p137) Accessible Accessible (p256) . Bring . Volcán Cerro Cerro Volcán Cañon de Don rubber Don Clinging to Clinging to Adventure (p201) . Perfectly preserved preserved Perfectly (p182) . (p251) Base yourself in San in San yourself Base . (p127) Float with the current with the current Float (p247) Head to the Corn Islands the Corn to Head . . Surfing beach vibrant a Juan del Sur, top-class by surrounded town breaks Negro is one of the places few on the planet to tick this deranged adventure sportyour off list (p148) and canoeing Kayaking Padre of the through the mighty down (p167), Ramos or around Juan (p254) Rio San Isla de Ometepe majestic Tubing the narrow down Somoto Diving in crystal- dives and reef cave for waters Caribbean clear at night Islas Solentiname the of some spot to binoculars birds migratory of thousands archi in this remote nesting pelago de Macizos Natural Reserva Blancas Peñas this peaks, mountain magnificent jaguars pumas, jungle is home to and ocelots Outdoor boarding Volcano of Latin America’s superlative superlative America’s Latin of experiences nature Bartola Refugio the into out head and boots kinds of three spot jungle to and frogs fluorescent monkeys, a tapir even maybe Mombacho Volcán and hiking great with forest cloud bird-watching better even Los Silvestre Vida de Refugio Guatuzos bird- with fantastic wetlands and during the day watching crocodile-spotting action-packed Coffee beans Chestnut-mandibled toucan (Above) (Below)

JAVIER PIERINI / GETTY IMAGES © ALFREDO MAIQUEZ / GETTY IMAGES © 22

Month by Month

z International TOP EVENTS Poetry Festival April Noche de Agüizotes, Top Spanish-language More sunshine, this time October wordsmiths from around accompanied by big surf in Maypole, May the globe gather for this the Pacific and calm seas festival (www.festivalpoe- throughout the Caribbean. Turtle-Watching at sianicaragua.com) in Gra- La Flor, October After Easter crowds drop nada with regular readings dramatically. International Poetry and more low-key fringe Festival, February events. 2 Surf´s Up! Semana Santa in The combination of big León, March/April swells along the Pacific and bright sunshine bring March optimal conditions (and The heat wave continues big crowds) to many of January with soaring temperatures Nicaragua’s best surf breaks, Perfect beach weather and dry conditions. including the acclaimed in the Pacific region with Whether it falls in March . almost nonstop sunshine or April, Easter is big – expect bigger crowds business: prices spike, and more expensive accommodations sell out accommodations. and beaches get packed. May Low season gets underway 3 Baseball Finals z San Lazaro with sunshine still sticking Stadiums get packed for the Head to Masaya on the around but by the end of finals of the Liga Nacional weekend before Palm the month the skies open, de Beisbol Nicaraguense Sunday for this religious marking the beginning of (Nicaraguan National Base- festival that involves get- the wet season. ball League; www.lnbp. ting dressed up in bizarre com.ni). Catch games at the costumes – even local dogs z Maypole Estadio Denis Martínez in get in on the act. Managua. Bluefields celebrates fertility with a series of neighbor- z Semana Santa hood block parties culmi- in Léon nating in the bright and Easter is a major event boisterous carnival on the February all over the country but last Saturday of the month nowhere does it quite like Crowds thin out but it’s still and the closing Tulululu León, where the traditional all sunshine, making this when the entire town takes fireworks and parades are one of the best times to a midnight romp through accompanied by sawdust plan a beach break. It can be the streets accompanied by mosaics and a sandcastle uncomfortably hot in cities. a brass band. competition. 23 pitch-black used motor oil to z Noche de June accompany a tiny statue of Agüizotes the saint in his journey from Heavy rains drench the This spooky festival in Ma- the hills of Santo Domingo saya brings to life characters entire country, bringing into the heart of the capital. significantly cooler from horror stories of the

colonial period with elabo- TRIP YOUR PLAN temperatures but turning z Crab Soup some rural roads into rate costumes. Keep an eye Corn Island celebrates the impassable pools of mud. out for the headless priest. end of slavery with a parade, concerts, plenty of beer and z San Juan free ginger bread and bowls Bautista of crab soup for everyone. The normally serene flower- November growing town of Catarina Things get moving again M is transformed by this wild following the easing of the onth festival in honor of San Juan rains. Travelers spread out

Bautista, featuring dancing, September throughout the country by ceremonial fights and music. The height of hurricane

and the festival season M season in the Caribbean

warms up. onth may disrupt travel plans, but when there are no z Garifuna Week July storms the weather is Nicaragua’s Garifuna com- generally bright and munity celebrate their Rains continue unabated there are great deals on rich cultural heritage with throughout the country. accommodations. drums, dancing and gas- Most hiking trails are now tronomy in the remote com- muddy but many waterfalls z Feria del Maíz munity of Orinoco on the are at their very best. The farmers of Nueva Sego- shores of Laguna de Perlas. via descend on the northern z Aniversario de la town of Jalapa for a celebra- z Carnival Acuático Revolución tion of everything corn. Dancers from all over the Dress in red and black There’s corn clothes, corn country travel to San Car- and head to the plaza in altars and corn dances, not los for this colorful parade Managua to celebrate the to mention plenty of chicha of floats on the Río San revolution alongside hard- (fermented corn drink). Juan accompanied by con- drinking Sandinista sup- certs and a food fair on the porters bussed in from all waterfront. over the country. Or check out the bohemian fringe event in San Antonio. October Rains return with a vengeance throughout December the Pacific with frequent The end of the rains in the August heavy downpours in Pacific region sees the high the afternoons. Traveler season begin in earnest. Rains generally ease a little numbers are at their lowest. in the Pacific with most z La Griteria days enjoying stretches of 2 Turtle-Watching Celebrated on the eve sunshine. Meanwhile, the at La Flor Caribbean experiences one of the Immaculate Con- Refugio de Vida Silvestre of its wettest months. cepcíon, La Griteria sees La Flor is the backdrop for hordes of children going one of nature’s most amaz- z Santo Domingo from door to door singing ing spectacles when olive songs to the Virgin Mary de Guzmán ridley turtles arrive en mass and receiving candies. It’s Managua’s biggest religious (sometimes up to 3000 in celebrated throughout the procession sees believers one night) to lay their eggs country but León gets into covering themselves in on the sandy shores. it with unrivaled vigor. ROLF RICHARDSON / ALAMY © - N EA A SE RIBB CA Pueblos Blancos Pueblos (p83). Spend three nights taking nights three Spend (p83). e A ep r IC et Su AR Then head 30 minutes down the road road the down minutes 30 head Then The following morning, visit the artisan the visit morning, following The el Om ST ge for some colonial splendor in charismatic charismatic in splendor colonial some for Granada the visiting streetscapes, wonderful the in the in dining and churches, and museums make here Whileyou’re restaurants. fine night. Spend the next day swimming in the the swimming in day next the Spend night. and birds spotting or waters sulfuric rich enjoy before forest, the in monkeys howler sky. spectacularnight the ing nearby the of workshops at potterycooperative the including (p76), Oriente. del Juan San de n d or CO a la ua n J Is n J Sa - # •

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Itineraries Plan Your Trip Your Plan crater at at crater view across town from Sandino’s silhou Sandino’s from town across view head before Tiscapa de Loma the on ette lush the into descending and south ing Fly into into Fly artisan villages that includes many of of many that includes villages artisan highlights. must-see Nicaragua’s wonderland of barreling surf, volcanoes, volcanoes, surf, barreling of wonderland and towns colonial lakes, crater on awesome and small on hours in and small on hours on awesome is a condensed The region the bus. If you’ve got limited time in Nicaragua, time in Nicaragua, limited got If you’ve is big the southwest a trip through 24 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN I IE ARIES TINER

Cascada San Ramón, Isla de Ometepe day trips to kayak through the islets just where you’ll spend three days lazing on offshore and hike among the cloud forest the splendid surrounding beaches or surf- atop Volcán Mombacho. ing some of the many excellent breaks in Next head down the highway to San the area. Take a day trip to the charming Jorge, from where you’ll take the ferry fishing village of El Ostional or, if you’re across to the out-of-this world Isla de lucky, to watch sea turtles arrive en masse Ometepe (p112) with its twin volcanoes at Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor. In the and endless outdoor activities. Spend one evenings, work your way though the hap- night among the howler monkeys at Reserva pening beachfront bars and restaurants. Charco Verde and another at the base of On your way back to Managua, stop off Volcán Maderas, from where you can hike to at Masaya (p67) to shop for souvenirs and the crater lake surrounded by cloud forest. gifts in the excellent Mercado Artesanías Then head across the to the (National Artisans Market) and visit the surfing capital of San Juan de Sur (p127), hammock workshops. 26

3 WEEKS Northern Loop

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Rich in nature and revolutionary culture, northern Nicaragua serves rugged and refined equally. In one trip you’ll go from sipping organic coffee at the source to surfing an active volcano. Charge your batteries, you’ll want to take plenty of pictures or no one will believe you when you get home. I IE ARIES TINER Upon arrival skip through Managua (p40) and head for the crumbling colonial beauty of León (p139) to give Nicaragua the fantastic introduc- tion it deserves. Spend three days exploring this endearing city on foot, visiting fascinating muse- ums, spacious mansions and glorious churches. If you’re feeling energetic, hike one of the nearby volcanoes or surf the slopes of Cerro Negro. From León head out west to the beach at Las Peñitas (p156) and find a spot in a sand-floor beachside bar for the spectacular sunset. In the morning make an early start to travel north to Jiquilillo (p166) and spend a couple of days soaking up the ambience in this pretty fishing village and paddling through the mangroves of the nearby Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos. Then travel across the Maribios Volcanic chain and into the mountains to Estelí (p172), where you can visit cigar factories and check out the revolutionary murals. After a couple of days head into mountains in the Área Protegida Mira- flor (p177) for two days of horseback riding, wildlife-spotting and farm-culture immersion.

HONDURAS Move on to Somoto (p181) and to Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto to swim, jump and rappel your way through the canyon. Next morning travel to Matagalpa (p194) for a

EL Somoto San Rafael É few caffeine-fuelled days picking coffee beans and SALVADOR •# Área Protegida del Norte É É ÷#Miraflor hiking on local plantations. Continue climbing •# •# Lago de Apanás higher into the mountains, stopping at the gor- Estelli •# •#Jinotega É CA RIBB EA N geous Selva Negra coffee estate, before arriving in É É •#Matagalpa SE A Jinotega (p188), gateway to the cloud forests of

Jiquilillo •# •#Chagüitillo É Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo. Spend León É •# Las PeñitasÙ# a day in town to climb Cerro la Cruz and then É #_ spend a couple of days hiking in the reserve. MANAGUA Give your muscles a break with a boat cruise on Lago de Apanás (p193) before continuing on to San Rafael del Norte (p187) to visit one PA CIFI C of Nicaragua’s most magnificent churches or OCEA N fly through the pine forest on a zipline. On your way back to Managua call in at Chagüitillo COSTARICA (p202) to view the pre-Columbian petroglyphs. 27 MARIO LOPEZ/EPA/CORBIS © LOPEZ/EPA/CORBIS MARIO

3 WEEKS Northern Loop

Rich in nature and revolutionary culture, TRIP YOUR PLAN northern Nicaragua serves rugged and refined equally. In one trip you’ll go from sipping organic coffee at the source to surfing an active volcano. Charge your batteries, you’ll want to take plenty of pictures or no one will believe you when you get home. I IE ARIES TINER Upon arrival skip through Managua (p40) and head for the crumbling colonial beauty of León (p139) to give Nicaragua the fantastic introduc- tion it deserves. Spend three days exploring this endearing city on foot, visiting fascinating muse- ums, spacious mansions and glorious churches. If you’re feeling energetic, hike one of the nearby volcanoes or surf the slopes of Cerro Negro. From León head out west to the beach at Las Peñitas (p156) and find a spot in a sand-floor beachside bar for the spectacular sunset. In the morning make an early start to travel north to Jiquilillo (p166) and spend a couple of days soaking up the ambience in this pretty fishing village and paddling through the mangroves of the nearby Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos. Then travel across the Maribios Volcanic chain and into the mountains to Estelí (p172), where you can visit cigar factories and check out the revolutionary murals. After a couple of days head LATITUDESTOCK - TTL / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / - TTL LATITUDESTOCK into mountains in the Área Protegida Mira- flor (p177) for two days of horseback riding, wildlife-spotting and farm-culture immersion.

HONDURAS Move on to Somoto (p181) and to Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto to swim, jump and rappel your way through the canyon. Next morning travel to Matagalpa (p194) for a

EL Somoto San Rafael É few caffeine-fuelled days picking coffee beans and SALVADOR •# Área Protegida del Norte É É ÷#Miraflor hiking on local plantations. Continue climbing •# •# Lago de Apanás higher into the mountains, stopping at the gor- Estelli •# •#Jinotega É CA RIBB EA N geous Selva Negra coffee estate, before arriving in É É •#Matagalpa SE A Jinotega (p188), gateway to the cloud forests of

Jiquilillo •# •#Chagüitillo É Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo. Spend León É •# Las PeñitasÙ# a day in town to climb Cerro la Cruz and then É #_ spend a couple of days hiking in the reserve. MANAGUA Give your muscles a break with a boat cruise on Lago de Apanás (p193) before continuing on to San Rafael del Norte (p187) to visit one PA CIFI C of Nicaragua’s most magnificent churches or OCEA N fly through the pine forest on a zipline. On your Top: Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto way back to Managua call in at Chagüitillo Bottom: Iglesia de La Recolección, León COSTARICA (p202) to view the pre-Columbian petroglyphs. N EA A icaragua SE e N RIBB s n d lo CA ua ba n J Sá artola Sa de o B

# • É Boca Refugi # • # • # • os Castillo rl n

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Bottom:Capuchin monkeys Top: El Castillo fort overlooking the Río San Juan Juan San Río the overlooking fort Castillo El Top:

LARRY LARSEN / ALAMY © PAUL KENNEDY / GETTY IMAGES © - - - - Río Río Carlos San Bartola Refugio (p247). Spend a night night a Spend (p247). Nicaragua de Juan San (p254), where an imposing imposing an where (p254), (p252), a small river town sur town river small a (p252), (p40) fly or bus it to to it bus or fly (p40) (p251) in the Refugio de Vida Silves Vida de Refugio the in (p251) El Castillo Castillo El Cruising the the Cruising Juan San Río

Islas Solentiname Solentiname Islas

Managua Managua

After two nights in Sabalos, continue down continue Sabalos, in nights two After the is stop following The Next take the public boat back to San Carlos Carlos San to back boat public the take Next From Mancarrón, charter a boat to the the to boat a charter Mancarrón, From Continue the journey by picking up a riverboat riverboat a up picking by journey the Continue

2 WEEKS rounded by steamy jungle. Take a tour to a local local a to tour a Take jungle. steamy by rounded simply or factory chocolate and plantation cacao birds aquatic spot and balcony hotel your on relax river. majestic the of banks the on to stream two Spend rapids. the over looms fort Spanish green rolling the through horses riding here days shrimp. river giant on feasting and hills to pick up a riverboat down the Río San Juan to to Juan San Río the down riverboat a up pick to Sábalos de Boca tre Los Guatuzos, stopping to spot the amazing amazing the spot to stopping Guatuzos, Los way. tre the on islands smaller the of some at birdlife forest monkey-inhabited thick the through Hike on out heading before wetlands the in kayak or evening. the in safari alligator an ruins, colorful reptiles and first-class birdlife. and first-class reptiles colorful ruins, rainforests that are filled with fascinating filled with fascinating that are rainforests Om or Granada in ferry the up pick or (p244) the out checking to morning a Dedicate etepe. the taking before waterfront and fort Spanish old archipelago enchanted the to over boat afternoon the of Mancarrón, Isla and Fernando San Isla both on petroglyphs, situ in to trails jungle following local visiting and waters clear the in swimming workshops. artist Papaturro among lush wetlands and towering and towering wetlands among lush From eco-retreats and more strenuous adventures adventures strenuous and more eco-retreats all dispositions, boasting both comfortable comfortable both boasting all dispositions, unparalleled playground for nature lovers of of lovers nature for playground unparalleled The southeast corner of Nicaragua is an is Nicaragua of corner The southeast heading downriver to to downriver heading (p256) biological station, with a network of trails trails of network a with station, biological (p256) kayaks and forest old-growth towering through Bartola Río jungle-clad narrow the up paddle to holes. swimming crystal-clear to the into pours Juan San Río the where (p257), explore to days three yourself Give Sea. Caribbean hidden in manatees spot Greytown, of ruins the heart the into Indio Río the up head and lagoons San From Indio-Maíz. Biológica Reserva the of Managua. to back direct fly Juan

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 28 29

2 Cruising the WEEKS Río San Juan

The southeast corner of Nicaragua is an TRIP YOUR PLAN unparalleled playground for nature lovers of all dispositions, boasting both comfortable eco-retreats and more strenuous adventures among lush wetlands and towering rainforests that are filled with fascinating ruins, colorful reptiles and first-class birdlife. I IE ARIES TINER From Managua (p40) fly or bus it to San Carlos (p244) or pick up the ferry in Granada or Om- etepe. Dedicate a morning to checking out the old Spanish fort and waterfront before taking the afternoon boat over to the enchanted archipelago of the Islas Solentiname (p247). Spend a night on both Isla San Fernando and Isla Mancarrón, following jungle trails to in situ petroglyphs, swimming in the clear waters and visiting local artist workshops. From Mancarrón, charter a boat to the Río Papaturro (p251) in the Refugio de Vida Silves- tre Los Guatuzos, stopping to spot the amazing birdlife at some of the smaller islands on the way. Hike through the thick monkey-inhabited forest or kayak in the wetlands before heading out on an alligator safari in the evening. Next take the public boat back to San Carlos to pick up a riverboat down the Río San Juan to Boca de Sábalos (p252), a small river town sur- rounded by steamy jungle. Take a tour to a local cacao plantation and chocolate factory or simply relax on your hotel balcony and spot aquatic birds on the banks of the majestic river. HONDURAS After two nights in Sabalos, continue down- stream to El Castillo (p254), where an imposing Spanish fort looms over the rapids. Spend two days here riding horses through the rolling green EL hills and feasting on giant river shrimp. SALVADOR The following stop is the Refugio Bartola (p256) biological station, with a network of trails CA RIBB EA N through towering old-growth forest and kayaks SE A to paddle up the narrow jungle-clad Río Bartola to crystal-clear swimming holes. Continue the journey by picking up a riverboat #_ É heading downriver to San Juan de Nicaragua MANAGUA (p257), where the Río San Juan pours into the . Give yourself three days to explore É San

the ruins of Greytown, spot manatees in hidden PA CIFI C Islas f# Refugio Bartola

OCEA N Solentiname •# É Carlos lagoons and head up the Río Indio into the heart É •# É Boca de Sábalos •# •# of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz. From San •# •#San Juan de Nicaragua Rio Papaturro •# É Juan fly direct back to Managua. COSTARICA El Castillo 30 Off the Beaten Track: Nicaragua

SALTO EL ROSARIO Represa La Unión El Cajón At the end of one of the worst roads in Lago de M o a PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN n g u Central America you’ll find this Yojoa t a ñ a s d e Co ma ya spectacular 100m-high split-level Siguatepeque waterfall that makes every bump, H O N D U R A S ditch and pothole seem insignificant. Comayagua (p186)

I C r a IE ARIES TINER TEGUCIGALPA o r d i l l e Danlí Perquín SALTO EL ROSARIO El Mozote

EL SALVADOR N I C A R A G U A Ocotal Río

Coco Somoto WIWILÍ a r l e i l La Unión Reserva r d Choluteca o Natural C Miraflor Golfo de Reserva Fonseca Natural Estelí Jinotega Cerro Tisey- Estanzuela Matagalpa DELTA DEL ESTERO REAL EL SAUCE

Reserva Natural Volcán Estero Padre Ramos Cerro Negro León DELTA DEL ESTERO REAL Lago de Managua Take a boat ride through these vast wetlands close to the Honduran border to spot alligators and MANAGUA migratory birds backed by the Masaya magnificent Volcán Cosigüina. Volcán Granada Masaya (p164) Lago de Nicaragua

P A C I F I C O C E A N DESCENDING THE RÍO Rivas COCO EL SAUCE The ultimate remote river adventure San Juan del Sur On the back roads between León and takes you from Wiwili in the northern Estelí is this sleepy mountain town highlands all the way to the Waspam cut straight from an old Western in the Caribbean stopping in tiny movie. The surrounding mountains Miskito villages along the way. Only are strewn with waterfalls and hiking hardcore adventurers need apply. trails. (p160) (p215) 31

0 50 km 0 30 miles

L a M o s q u i t i

s Río Coco MISKITO KEYSo Waspám TRIP YOUR PLAN í (Segovia) Spend the night with welcoming R Miskito lobster fishers in their stilted Río Wawa

woodenRío Patuca houses that jut out of the turquoisee Caribbean Sea among MISKITO KEYS r rockyt outcrops and coral reefs some E50km n offshore. (p213) I

l a ARIES TINER l a s Bilwi e (Puerto Cabezas) b Reserva s a I de Biosfera Miskito Bosawás RESERVA NATURAL CERRO MUSÚN

Costa de Accessed from the town of Río Blanco on the Managua–Siuna Hwy, this ruggedly beautiful mountain reserve has almost a dozen peaks over 1400m and as many dramatic waterfalls. (p283)

Río Grande Matagalpa RÍO BLANCO de MONKEY POINT CORN RIVER A perilous ride through the open seas This Creole community accessed by in a small boat keeps the best boat charter from San Juan de beachesPearl on the Caribbean mainland Lagoon Nicaragua is the gateway to superb completely empty and undeveloped. wildlife-watching in this seldom- (p227) visited part of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz. (p227) Pearl Keys

Juigalpa Río Escondido Corn Islands (Islas del Maíz, Bluefields Nicaragua)

MAKENGE Deep in the Indio-Maíz, the indigenous Rama community of MONKEY POINT Isla de Makenge is surrounded by the class Ometepe of jungle you’ve probably only seen in C A R I B B E A N wildlife documentaries. (p257) Gorda Punta S E A Islas Bahía Solentiname CORN RIVER San Carlos Boca de Sábalos MAKENGE San Juan de Los Chiles Nicaragua Refugio de El Castillo Reserva Vida Silvestre Biológica Los Guatuzos Indio-Maíz Rio San Juan Liberia C O S T A R I C A 32

Plan Your Trip Nicaragua Outdoors Pristine, largely unpopulated and with an increasing degree of environ- mental protection, Nicaragua is wide open for authentic wilderness ad- venture without the corporate sheen. Whether it’s sand-boarding down active volcanoes or a leisurely hike through orchid-scented cloud forests, in Nicaragua you are never far from a spectacular nature experience.

Best Outdoor Experiences Diving & Snorkeling With 1040km of coastline, most of it un- Best Wildlife-Watching tainted and underdeveloped, it’s no wonder Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz (p256), Refugio de that people are interested in getting all wet. Vida Silvestre La Flor (p137), Reserva de Biosfera You can dive Nicaragua’s Laguna de Bosawás (p214) and Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Apoyo, cruising past underwater fumaroles Guatuzos (p251) and saying hello to fish not found else- where in the world. But the best place to Best Volcano Climbs dive – especially if you like cave dives – is Volcán Cosigüina (p168), Volcán Maderas (p123) the Corn Islands, where hammerhead and Volcán (p159) sharks and 40 species of coral await. The reefs surrounding the islands are Best Cloud-Forest Trek also great for snorkeling, especially around Reserva Natural Macizos de Peñas Blancas (p201) Sally Peachie on the big island, and Otto Beach on the islita. For more outstanding Best Extreme Sports snorkeling, head to the spectacular Pearl Volcano-boarding Cerro Negro (p148), abseiling in Keys, where you are can swim among Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto (p182) marine turtles and then rest on wonderful white-sand beaches. Best Diving & Snorkeling Great Corn Island (p231), Little Corn Island (p231) Make it Happen and Pearl Keys (p230) Serious snorkeling enthusiasts will want to bring their own mask, snorkel and fins BestFishing as rental gear varies greatly in quality and Río San Juan (p251), San Juan del Sur (p127) and is not widely available apart from on the Río Escondido (p224) Corn Islands. The following dive shops are PADI cer- tified and offer both courses and leisure dives: Dive Little Corn (p237), Dolphin Dive (p237) and Neptune Watersports (p128). 33 There are a number of companies of- Hiking fering organized hikes. The following are recommended: Thanks to an unlikely environmental con- sciousness (the Nicaraguan government Quetzaltrekkers (p148) Nonprofit outift in León found time to protect dozens of wilderness offering high-adventure volcano climbs . areas during the turbulent 1980s) and the Tree Huggers (p173) Based in Estelí, offers hikes TRIP YOUR PLAN war, which probably did more to save the around Estelí including to Área Protegida Miraflor rainforests than Unesco did in most coun- and Cañon de Somoto . tries, there’s a lot of fairly pristine forest out there to see. Matagalpa Tours (p195) Matagalpa outfit, with Some of the most interesting and easily treks to Reserva Naturals Cerro Apante, Datanlí, accessible are at Área Protegida Miraflor, Peñas Blancas and other more off-the-beaten- Reserva Natural Macizos de Peñas Blancas track destinations . N and Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El AG ICAR Diablo. The climbs with the real cachet, how-

ever, are any of the dozens of volcanoes, u

Surfing a

including the Maribios chain, Volcán Co- Ou sigüina and the volcanoes of Isla Ometepe. The center of Nicaraguan surfing remains And if you’re into dominating nature, San Juan del Sur, giving rise to a wave of tdoors consider the full-day climb to the peak of surf camps and strongholds spreading Cerro Mogotón (2106m), Nicaragua’s high- northward to the holy grail of Nicaraguan est mountain. wave-riding, Popoyo, past flawless beach breaks, scary-fun lava point breaks and lots of barrels, when conditions are right. Make it Happen Playa Gigante has the greatest concentra- Guides are usually recommended (and tion of surf camps, where all-inclusive sometimes compulsory) for hikes in all means room, meals and boat rides out to but the best-developed natural parks and the best waves in the area every day. North reserves, particularly for the volcanoes. of Popoyo, despite some excellent surfing, Even on easy hikes, guides can almost services are thin; surfing on the Caribbean always find things you never would. In coast is possible, but there’s no infrastruc- smaller towns, ask about guides at the ture and not much information available. alcaldía (mayor’s office), usually right on The best breaks often require boats to the Parque Central (central park). get to, not just because they’re offshore, Base yourself in the hiking havens of but because housing developments along Estelí, Matagalpa or Jinotega to explore the coast block land access. To make up the mountains of the north. For volcanoes, for it, southern Nicaragua is caressed by the best access is from León. an almost constant offshore wind, perhaps

HIKING GEAR CHECKLIST Trekking for leisure is not particularly popular among Nicaraguans and quality gear is hard to find on the ground. If you plan on getting of the beaten track, make sure to bring the following: ¨¨Comfortable footwear Consider both leather hiking boots for long days in the mountains and comfortable, sturdy sports sandals for treks involving river crossings. ¨¨Water purification tablets ¨¨Lightweight sleeping bag Believe it or not it does actually get cold in moun- tainous regions of Nicaragua. ¨¨Hammock Indispensable for long boat rides or taking a break in the jungle high above the creepy crawlies of the forest floor. ¨¨Tent If you find one in Nicaragua, it’s likely to be bulky and barely waterproof. Bring a lightweight hiking model from home. 34 caused by the presence of Lago de Nicara- Numerous surfing outfits offer everything gua and Lago de Managua. from one-on-one instruction to week-long all-inclusive surf packages. Listings are pro- Make it Happen vided in the closest city to the waves. Nicaragua has great waves year-round.

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN March to November is considered the best time to surf, with the biggest waves usually in March, April and October (con- Swimming sistently 1m to 2m, frequently 3m to 4m). From sunny Pacific beaches to cool crater November to March is the dry season, with lakes, and lots of rivers and waterfalls, smaller waves (averaging under 2m) but you’ll always find places to put your bath- better weather – this is the best time for ing suit to work. beginners. N There are eight major crater lakes, with CRAG ICAR Water temperatures average around excellent swimming at Laguna de Apoyo, mid-20°C (mid-70°F) year-round, but from surrounded by lodging options, or undevel- December to April an upwelling offshore oped Laguna de Asososca, near León. means that the water’s temperature can u Isla de Ometepe has some excellent a drop; consider bringing a long-sleeve wet- Ou swimming opportunities, including the suit top. remarkable natural sand jetty at Punta tdoors You can buy, sell and rent boards in San Jesús María and the mineral-rich waters of Juan del Sur and Popoyo, but it’s generally La Presa Ojo de Agua. better to bring your own board (consider The best beach swims are at some of selling it when you leave). the stunning coves around San Juan del

BEST BREAKS Here are some favorite waves, which we’ve listed northeast to southwest. All of these beaches are on the Pacific coast. For a comprehensive list of the best breaks pick up a map (US$8) from Surf Maps (www .surfmaps .com). ¨¨Playa Aserradores (p166) Just northeast of Chinandega, the beach is also called Boom-wavos for the powerful, hollow beach break making all that noise. There’s another left five minutes offshore and plenty more waves around. ¨¨El Corinto (p165) One of the best waves in the country goes almost unsurfed out there beyond Playa Paso Caballos, but it’s boat access only; just north is a river-mouth break with left-breaking peaks. ¨¨Poneloya and Las Peñitas (p155) Only decent surfing, but the easiest access on Nicaragua’s north Pacific, just 20km from León. ¨¨Puerto Sandino (p157) The stretch from Puerto Sandino to El Velero has half a dozen reef and rocky-bottomed beach breaks, including one spectacular left. ¨¨Playa Huehuete (p82) Now is that golden time between when the road is paved and when the gated communities go up: check out the point, beach and river- mouth break now! ¨¨Playa Popoyo (p126) This collection of sandy-floored surf lodges may be Nicaragua’s next bona fide surf town, with at least four named waves: Popoyo, a right and left point break; aggressive Bus Stop; fast and rocky-floored Cobra; and the best wave in the region, Emergencias, with a left for the longboards and hollow right for short boards. ¨¨Playa Gigante (p125) Accessing another handful of named waves, most of them a boat ride away, it’s no wonder that surf lodges are springing up all over this beautiful beach. ¨¨Playa Maderas (p135) Sometimes called Los Playones, this excellent surf spot with easy access from San Juan del Sur has a slow wave with two rights and two lefts that’s perfect for beginners. 35 Sur and in the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean around the Pearl Keys and the BEST BIRDING SPOTS Corn Islands. ¨¨Islas Solentiname (p247) Tiny islands with Nicaragua’s highest concentration of birdlife including tiger herons and flocks of roseate TRIP YOUR PLAN Wildlife spoonbills. Nicaragua is home to an impressive ar- ¨¨Boca de Sábalos (p252) Pick ray of tropical ecosystems, each offering your spot along the river and ob- their own outstanding wildlife-spotting serve a fantastic array of waterfowl opportunities. and species without mov- The best spots to see big animals is ing a muscle.

in the tropical rainforests of the Reserva N

¨¨Área Protegida Miraflor (p177) AG ICAR Bíologica Indio-Maíz and the Reserva de Accessible cloud forest boasting Biosfera Bosawás. One of the rarest ecosys- quetzals and toucans. tems in the world is the cloud forest, a cool, misty tropical rainforest above 1200m, ¨¨Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los u Guatuzos (p251) Immense wetlands a offering opportunities for seeing wildlife, Ou most famously colorful quetzals and or- home to around 400 bird species. chids. The easiest to see is at Volcán Mom- tdoors bacho, with easy access from Granada. Nicaragua’s Pacific coast is a haven for Chacocente. There’s more turtle action literally hundreds of thousands of nesting further north at Reserva Natural Volcán turtles each year, and some of their nesting Cosigüina. sites are surprisingly accessible. In the San Birders will also be drawn to Nicara- Juan del Sur area, you’re within easy reach gua’s sweet-water wetlands and jungle- of Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor and lined rivers, which offer outstanding bird- Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante ing opportunities. 36

Managua Masaya & Regions Los Pueblos History Blancos Nightlife at a Culture Shopping Culture Walking the Outdoors Glance Town Managua is a twist- Crafts Central ed, toiled, visceral Stretching from the sizzling Pacific Masaya has the best hive of activity. Just crafts market in all with its colonial treasures, smok- bopping through of Nicaragua. Be- ing volcanoes and superb surf town can be fun. yond its Technicolor beaches to the crystalline Carib- Spin through the stalls, you’ll find crumbling areas unique artisan work- bean with its indigenous com- around the Plaza de munities and islands that groove shops in the com- la Revolución before pact and neat little to an altogether different tune, walking up to the villages throughout Nicaragua’s geographical diversity volcano’s rim at this region. is topped only by the range of cul- Loma de Tiscapa. Cultural tures living within its boundaries. Where Wild Encounters The country is crowned in the Grows This region allows north by spectacular mountain This town knows ranges covered in a patchwork of for broad-faced how to party. And encounters with small farms, coffee plantations while you’ll definite- locals. Take the time and cloud forest that offer great ly want to keep your to volunteer or learn hiking and bird-watching opportu- senses about you, a Spanish and you’ll diesel-charged night nities. In the south you’ll find the experience the place in the rock-roarious on a whole new level. largest freshwater lake in Central lounges and dance- America, with more outdoor halls along Car- From the Fire activities than you could dream retera a Masaya is a rite of passage. & the Deeps of cramming into your itinerary, Volcán Masaya of- wetlands brimming with birdlife Dig Deep fers great hiking trips, never-ending and the virgin rainforests of the This is the cultural vistas and the all- magnificent Río San Juan. fulcrum of a nation. too-real chance The university of- of being blown to fers great guerrilla smithereens in a learning opportuni- pyroclastic burst of ties, and there are light. Southward, museums and cul- you’ll come across tural houses, street the unrelenting artists and under- beauty of Laguna ground poets. de Apoyo. p40 p65 37 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Granada South- León & Northern western North- Highlands History Nicaragua western Eating Nicaragua Nature Walking Adventure Surf R Beauty History Coffee egions From the Wilderness Volcanoes Pirate’s Cup Outdoors Pristine Forests

Granada’s history Charge It! Nature lovers will at

is as complex as You don’t get better Revolutionary have no shortage a it gets. This fleet- surf at many other of opportunities to G

Roots ANCE L ing imprint is spot nesting quet- places in the world. León is where the evidenced on nearly After you hit dawn zals, toucans and every corner. You’ll revolution was tele- boisterous howler patrol at legendary vised. And to this see it in the city’s spots like Playas monkeys among architecture, its day, fiery rhetoric the region’s swaths Hermosa and Ma flows from this intel- festivals, art and deras, you can chill of precious cloud living culture. lectual powerhouse. forest. out in your beach- The partying here front hammock ain’t bad either… A Gastronome’s paradise. Authentic Delight Adventure The Rim of Fire The city’s vibrant Islands in the Whether it’s a The fire theme con- restaurant scene mountainous Stream tinues down below will keep food- trek to a hidden Isla de Ometepe is and up above in the ies busy for sev- waterfall or tub- a paradise lost. Get large nature pre- eral hours each ing through an here now to discover serves that encircle day. There’s fusion, ancient canyon, the petroglyphs, climb massive volcanoes, mind-blowing local northern region volcanoes, kayak to forgotten islets and steaks and experi- offers unlimited lost coves and chill wide-open spaces of mental spots that opportunity for out in cool travelers’ the interior. Come cater to travelers of off-the-beaten path enclaves on the edge sunset, the sun all palates. adventure. of the wild. lights up the Pacific night. Move Go Beyond Coffee Culture A city of movement, There are lost Explorers Club The shade-grown age-old grace and plantations of beaches, tough-and- Head north and you continued evolution, northern Nicaragua ready inland towns, get further from the Granada is the place produce classic unique windows tourist track and to walk till you gourmet coffees. into rural Nicara- closer to the wild. drop. If that fails, Get into the fields guan life, and wild- There are volcanoes head out by launch and see where it life preserves where that seldom see a to explore a mythi- comes from or go turtles arrive by climber and estuar- cal island archi- one step better and the thousands and ies whose dread- pelago with monkey pick some beans birds of paradise locked fingers only islands, fortresses caw madly from the yourself. and birds aplenty. see a human wake forest canopy. once in a blue moon. p169 p83 p105 p138 38 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Caribbean San Carlos, Coast Islas Solentiname Beaches & the Río San Food R Juan egions Culture Wildlife Pristine Shores Outdoors

at Romantic tropi- Art

a cal islands with

G turquoise-fringed ANCE L white-sand beaches Bird-Watching shaded by coconut The remote Islas So- palms anyone? lentiname is a haven While you may find for migratory water- such idyllic beauty birds, and the Río elsewhere, you San Juan is home won’t find them as to a grand variety empty or undevel- of both aquatic and oped as these. rainforest species.

Home-Style Aquatic Cooking Adventures The coast has deli- The Río San Juan cious seafood, most department is the famously in its ultimate boating signature dish ‘run- playground, with down’. But costeño kayak and canoe cooking goes way adventures, or beyond fresh lobster, alligator-spotting so grab a glass of motorboat safaris. seaweed punch and follow your nose to A Community the wonderful un- of Artists signed bakeries. A visit to the isolat- ed island workshops Original and studios offers Rhythms fascinating insights Big on culture, the into the Primitiv- Caribbean coast’s ist paintings and maypole rhythms bright balsa carv- and Miskito pop ings from the Islas provide the sound- Solentiname. track for perform- ances by Nicaragua’s p241 best dancers.

p204 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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