Welcome to Nicaragua
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4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Nicaragua Affable Nicaragua embraces travelers with offerings of volcanic landscapes, colonial architecture, sensational beaches and pristine forests that range from breathtaking to downright incredible. Beaches Colonial Splendor Whether it’s dipping your toes into the Nicaragua’s colonial splendor comes in two crystalline Caribbean or paddling out to distinct, but equally appealing, flavors. The the crashing waves of the pounding Pacific, elegant streetscapes of Granada have been Nicaragua’s beaches always deliver the entrancing travelers for centuries with their goods. The big barrels of Rivas are revered architectural grace. It’s Nicaragua’s best- in surfing circles while the clear waters of preserved colonial town and boasts a me- the Corn Islands are superb for snorkeling. ticulously restored cathedral, well-groomed More sedentary beach bums can choose plaza and perfectly maintained mansions between accessible slices of sand lined with that shelter lush internal courtyards. Far less fine restaurants and happening bars or polished, working-class León offers a differ- natural affairs backed by a wall of rainfor- ent colonial experience where your crum- est. Even the best beaches in the country bling 300-year-old houses come interspersed are refreshingly free of development, so with revolutionary murals and architectural you can experience them just as nature masterpieces housing corner stores. It’s a intended. vibrant city that, while proud of its heritage, is too busy to feel like a museum. Outdoor Adventures Looking for the ultimate rush? Nicara- Getting off the Beaten Track gua’s diverse geography, intense energy There are few destinations with such beauty and anything-goes attitude is perfect for that are as undeveloped as Nicaragua. Before exhilarating outdoor adventures. Get ready you know it, you’ve dropped off the tourist to check a whole gamut of new experiences trail and into a world of majestic mountains, off your list including: surfing down an cooperative farms, wetlands thronged with active volcano, diving through underwater wildlife and empty jungle-clad beaches. caves, canoeing through alligator-infested Forge on and discover remote indigenous wetlands, swimming across sea channels communities, overgrown pre-Columbian between tiny white-sand islands and land- ruins and untouched rainforests. No matter ing a 90-plus-kg tarpon beneath a Spanish how far you go, you’ll always find friendly fortress in the middle of the jungle. There’s locals who are more than willing to share no signs, no crowds and no holding back. their culture with strangers. 5 MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES © Why I Love Nicaragua By Alex Egerton, Author Upon arriving in Nicaragua, like so many others I was captivated by the youthful energy and crumbling colonial charm of León, a city quite unlike others I had known. But after settling down there I soon identified the unparalleled adventure opportunities that were waiting on my doorstep and up and left to the wild Caribbean Coast. Now I live on the placid shores of Pearl Lagoon where I spend most of my spare time paddling my sea kayaks around the bays, up the jungle creeks and around the stunning Pearl Keys. Every trip’s a new experience. For more about our authors, see page 320 Above: A bungalow on Little Corn Island 8 Nicaragua’s Top 15 9 Granada Little Corn Island Granada (p83) is a town of immense With no cars and no noise, just white- and palpable magnetism. At the heart sand beaches and secluded coves of1 the city’s charms are the picture-perfect mixing2 it with the crystal-clear Caribbean, cobblestone streets, polychromatic co- Little Corn Island (p237) is the paramount lonial homes and churches, and a lilting place to take a break from the big city. air that brings the city’s spirited past into There is plenty to keep you occupied during present-day tight focus. Most trips here the day, including diving with hammerhead begin and end on foot, and simply dawdling sharks and through underground caves, from gallery to restaurant to colonial church kitesurfing the stiff breeze and scrambling can take up the better part of a day. From over jungle-covered headlands. And there’s there, it’s off to explore the myriad wild just enough to do at night, too. Add some areas, islands, volcanoes and artisan vil- great food to the mix and it’s no surprise lages nearby. Catedral de Granada that many find it so hard to leave. MLENNY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © ANDREW BARGERY ALAMY/ © 10 León Isla de Ometepe A royal city with revolutionary under- Lago de Nicaragua’s beloved center- currents, León both enchants and piece, Isla de Ometepe (p112) has it all: baffles.3 Within the city, you’ll find an artsy, twin4 volcanoes, lush hillsides cut by walking slightly edgy vibe originally fueled by the tracks, archaeological remains, ziplines, PLAN YOUR TRIP Sandinista revolution and now by the uni- monkeys and birdlife, waterfalls, lapping versity (p148) and a 120-horsepower party waves at your doorstep, and a laid-back scene. Come sunrise, you can spend a good island air that keeps travelers in the now as day exploring the Catedral (p143), muse- they make their way through this lost para- ums and downtown area, before heading dise found again. At the heart of the island’s out to honey-blonde beaches, volcanoes charms are the cool hostels, camping areas and Old West cowboy towns. View from León and peaced-out traveler scenes. Custom- N Catedral fit your experience from high-end luxury icarag lodges to groovy-groupie hippie huts. u A ’ 3 S CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IMAGES © T op 15 4 JOHN COLETTI / GETTY IMAGES © 11 5 6 JOHN GIUSTINA PETE NIESEN ALAMY/ ALAMY/ © © PLAN YOUR TRIP N icarag 7 MARVIN DEL CI u A ’ S T op / GETTY IMAGES © 15 Río San Juan Pearl Keys Coffee Country Once favored by As you approach the A visit to Nicaragua’s pirates and prospec- dozen tiny islands coffee zone is about tors5 as a path to riches, ringed6 by snow-white sand more7 than just sipping today the Río San Juan is and brilliant Caribbean plenty of joe, it’s about get- exalted by nature lovers. waters that make up the ting out and seeing where All along the river, scores Pearl Keys (p230), you it all comes from. Hike of birds nest on branches will enter the realms of the among the bushes shaded overhanging its slow surg- ultimate shipwreck fan- by ethereal cloud forest ing waters while its lower tasy. Fortunately, you’ll be around Jinotega (p189) and reaches are dominated by marooned with a capable pick ripe cherries alongside the Reserva Biológica In- Creole guide that will cook your hosts in a community dio-Maíz (p256), an impen- up a spectacular seafood farming cooperative near etrable jungle that shelters meal and source ice-cold Matagalpa (p194). And jaguars and troupes of beers from a mysterious why stop there when you noisy monkeys. The only supply, leaving you more can follow the beans to the artificial attraction along time to swim, snorkel, spot roasting plant and then the river’s entire length sea turtles, or just lie back learn to identify flavors in a is the grand Spanish fort in your hammock and take cupping session. After this, (p254) over the rapids at in the idyllic panoramic you’ll savor your morning El Castillo. views. cup in a whole new way. Coffee beans from the mountains of Matagalpa 12 8 9 WAYNE WAYNE LYNCH / GETTY IMAGES © CHRISTIAN HEEB / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP N icarag u A ’ S T op 15 Surfing near San Turtles at Islas Solentiname Juan del Sur La Flor The Islas Solenti- Nicaragua sparked into Head to Nicaragua’s name (p247) are straight10 out of a fairy tale. international stardom southern Pacific coast on8 the wake of tanned-and- between9 July and January You simply must visit in toned surfer dudes and to witness sea turtles by order to experience the dudettes. And the surfing the thousands come to magic of this remote scene north and south of shore to lay their eggs at jungle-covered archi- regional hub San Juan del Refugio de Vida Silvestre pelago where a community Sur (p127) remains cooled- La Flor (p137). There’s of exceptionally talented back, reefed-out, soulful a decent beach here, as artists live and work and downright brilliant. The well, but the highlight is a among the wild animals stars of the scene are the night tour (generally from that are their inspiration. long rideable waves that nearby San Juan del Sur), It’s a place where an en- fit the bill for surfers of all where, if you’re lucky, lightened priest inspired a abilities, but the chillaxed you’ll see a leatherback or village to construct a hand- surf camps, beach parties olive ridley mama come to some church alive with and cool breezes add to the shore to lay her eggs at the the sounds of nature and vibe, making a beach vaca- end of one of nature’s most shooting stars illuminate tion here work for every- inspiring and remarkable the speckled night sky. body in your crew (even the journeys. Even having been there, boogie boarders). you still find it hard to be- lieve it’s real. Woman painting a balsa-wood carved chicken 13 10 MARGIE POLITZER / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP N icarag u A ’ S T op 15 11 Volcán Masaya JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES © Hovering above the artisan villages of Nicaragua’s11 Central Pla- teau, the smoldering Volcán Masaya and its surrounding national park (p73) are a singular highlight not to be missed by volcanophiles, nature lovers and adven- ture seekers alike.