4-H Clothing Project Clothes Rack Series

Extension Bulletin 613 October 1971

Cooperative Extension Service College of Agriculture Washington State University Pullman, Washington 99163

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- ~ PHASE 2 In "Patterns and " you will make your own clothes from a . You will learn about: (1) Your pattern size. (2) Selecting a pattern. (3) Different kinds of fabrics. (4) with a pattern. {5} New sewing skills. (6) Modeling. (7) Hair care. For your sewing project, you can choose any of the seven kinds of garments shown in this bulletin. Or you may want to choose something else. Ask your leader or parents to help you select a pattern which is not too difficult. You can make as many items as you want. Talk with your lead­ er and parents about your plans. Plan to sew a garment that goes with something you already have or can buy. For example, if you make a blouse, you should have a skirt or pants to wear with it. ACTION IDEA. Begin your clothing project with a "Quickie.'' Your leader will have some ideas. erns an •

Susan J. Hendrix and Thine Lu Bloxham Extension Clothing and Specialists BUYING TOOLS AND (4) Back waist. Measure from PATTERNS the base of your neck to your waistline. Sewing Tools Write down your measure­ To sew with a pattern, you'll ments here: need to have some more sewing tools: (1) Tracing wheel. Used to Bust Waist Hip Back Waist make the markings on the pat­ tern show on the fabric. (2) . Special pa­ per used with the wheel. You Compare your measurements may want to wait to buy this. with the charts in a pattern book The kind you get will depend on to find your best size. Ask your what color fabric you choose. parents or leader to help. Write (3) Needles. For hand sew­ in your size here: ing· and other uses. A good size for most sewing is size 8 longs. Pattern Type Pattern (Girls', Teen, etc.) Size Pattern Size To buy a pattern, you'll need four measurements. Have some­ one take these for you: If the store doesn't have your (1) Bust. Measure around the size, don't take a different size. fu II est part of the chest. Try another store. (2) Waist. Measure at your Buy dress, jumper, tunic, vest, natural waistline. and blouse patterns by your bust (3) Hip. Measure 7 inches measurement. Buy skirt patterns below your waist. by your hip measurement. PICK A PROJECT Here are some ideas for things to sew: (1) Blouse. (2) Jumper. (3) Shift. (4) Tunic. (5) Vest. (6) Skirt. (7) Beach cover-up. Your pattern doesn't have to look like the drawings here. For example, you could make any kind of skirt-long, short, slim, full, with , or without. In deciding what to make, think about these things: (1) The type of garment you want and need. (2) The color of the garment. (3) Other garments to wear with it to make a complete outfit. (4) The sewing skills you have now and new ones you want to learn. Ask your parents and leader to help you decide.

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BUYING FABRIC AND comfortable, comes in pretty How Much To Buy colors, and doesn't cost a lot. Choosing the right fabric is Your pattern envelope tells However, it wrinkles easily. Cot­ important. It has a lot to do with how many yards of fabric you ton can be pressed with a hot the success of your project. need to buy. Practice reading iron. Be smart now, not sorry later. the envelope before you shop. Other fibers are man made. (1) For a jumper, tunic, vest, Draw a line across from the They come from chemicals. Ny­ or skirt, choose a firm, heavy fabric width and a second line lon and polyester are examples. fabric. Firm, but lighter weight, down from the pattern size. They aren't as comfortable as fabric is good for a blouse. Where the two lines meet is the cotton, but they don't wrinkle. (2) Look at the pattern en­ right amount to buy. velope for fabric suggestions. Nylon and polyester must be pressed with a warm iron. (3) Avoid plaid. It needs to Notions be matched and this is hard. The two fiber types-natural Terrycloth, velveteen, and cordu­ and man made-are often blend­ Notions are the little things roy are difficult, too. ed with each other to make a you need-, elastic, but­ (4) Don't forget to check the better fabric. If a blended fabric tons, , and so on. Your fabric grainline. contains a man-made fiber, it pattern envelope will say what (5) Check the label on the must be pressed with a warm they are. Buy them at the same end of the bolt for the kind of iron. time you buy your fabric. It is fiber and for the best way to ACTION IDEA. Find samples not necessary to buy bind­ wash or clean it. of fabrics made from different ing or stretch lace, if they are kinds of fibers. Test them for listed. Fabric Facts the best pressing temperature. For the Record Learn about fibers and fabrics Look at labels on yard goods or before you shop. ready to wear and see what fi­ Keep a record of the fabric Fibers can be either natural or bers the fabrics are made of. you choose. You sho4ld be able man made. Fibers can be made into fab­ to tell others about it. Some natural fibers are cotton, rics in two ways-knitting or Write down the fabric name, wool, and silk. They come from weaving. Learn to tell the differ­ the fiber content, care instruc­ nature-plants or animals. Cot­ ence. Look at the drawings: (1) tions, and any information about ton is a popular natural fiber. It's knitted fabric; (2) woven fabric. finishes. (1)

GIRLS Fabric Rectuintd Sizes• 7 8 10 lZ View1 ss" flr 3{i," wiihsut nap tY2. 1~ l% J~ Ycls~ 44"or45" It If ti4 lo/8 I% I~ If ,, 54"- If I JY8 IYs 1!4 II View 2 .35" or 3b' wi.fh.out rt.ap 114 l% IY2 1;4 '(cjs.

,, ~~ ~4"or"'45" II I~ r}'s l~ ~~ 64"- Jl II ~ I J ~ (( GETTING READY TO SEW tern needs changes, have your leader make them. Later, you Preshrink the Fabric wi II learn to make alterations The first step is to preshrink yourself. your fabric. If you are using a zipper or , preshrink these, Learn About Pattern Markings too. Follow your leader's direc­ Patterns are marked to make tions. sewing easier. Your leader will tell you what each mark means. Check Pattern Fit Then see if you can put the right Sometimes patterns need to numbers on the drawing: be changed to get a better fit. (1) Notches. To see if your pattern needs to (2) Stitching line. be altered you'll need to take (3) line. some measurements. (4) Place on lengthwise . With a partner, take your per­ (5) Cutting line. sonal measurements. Write them (6) Dot. down in column 1. Add the amount of shown in column Out the Fabric 2. Put the total in column 3. Your pattern guide has cutting Next measure the pattern layouts for different widths of where your leader shows you fabric. Find the layout for your and write that in column 4. fabric width. Notice the place­ Finally, in column 5, write down ment of the and how the amount you need to add or the fabric is folded. subtract to make the pattern fit. Fold your fabric the same way. Ask your leader to check all Lay it on a smooth, clean surface. your measurements. If your pat- Then lay out the pattern pieces,

,,, ''' 1 2 3 4 5 Personal Ease Measurement Pattern Alteration Measurement Plus Ease Measurement Needed (+ or -)

Bust 2-4"

Waist 1" . Hip 2-3"

Back Waist 1f2"

Skirt Length 2-4" (for )

2-4" Dress Length (for hem) just as they are in the picture. on the bottom, with two layers of ~ The pieces should be straight fabric in between. fA with the fabric grain. To be sure (3) Move the tracing wheel they are, measure from each end over the line only once. Trace of the "on-grain" marking to the darts, tucks, fold lines, and other fold or edge. If both markings. Use an "X" to mark measurements are the same, the a dot. You don't need to mark pattern is straight. seam lines. the pieces to the fabric, ACTION IDEA. Test a sam­ just inside the cutting line. ple of your fabric to make sure Have your parents or leader the tracing color shows on the check what you've done after all wrong side but doesn't mark the pieces are pinned down. through to the right side. Then Then cut along the cutting line test to see if you can remove the with shears. Cut notches out­ marks with soap and water. The ward, not in. marks should not leave a perm­ anent stain. Use the Tracing Wheel Set Up a Sewing Area Use the tracing wheel to trans­ fer markings from the pattern to Sewing is easier if you have the fabric: everything together in one place. (1) Protect the table top with Set up a sewing area with: a piece of cardboard or a maga­ (1) The . zine. (2) Your sewing tools. \ (2) Arrange the tracing paper (3} A good light. '\ so it will mark on the wrong side (4) A wastebasket. •.__ ------~ of the fabric. You'll need two (5) An ironing board and iron. pieces-one on the top and one (6) A chair.

I I I ,I I I ' ,I I I ·------_.. MAKING YOUR GARMENT (2) Seams are usually pressed flat and open. Follow Your Pattern Guide Begin pressing by testing a Go through your pattern guide small scrap of your fabric. Check and study the steps carefully. for correct temperature. Find out Cross off any that don't apply to how to press your fabric so it the garment you're making. For will not show press marks. instance, if you're making a sleeveless dress and the pattern Seam Finishes also has instructions for a dress The raw edges of seams, fac­ with sleeves, cross these off. ings, and hems can be finished to prevent raveling. There are Stay Stitching no set rules for seam finishes. Stay each piece before Some fabrics do not even re­ you make darts or sew seams. quire a finish. Stitch 1f2 inch from the edge and Ask your leader to show you (1) through one layer of fabric only. different methods. Try each one Use a regular machine stitch. on a scrap of your fabric. Use Do this on all curved and bias the one that wi II work the best. edges. The arrows in the draw­ ings show the direction you New Sewing Skills should stitch. This line of stitch­ You'll learn many new skills ing keeps the fabric from stretch­ as you follow your pattern-mak­ ing as you work on the garment. ing darts, sewing facings, put­ ting in , etc. Pressing List the new skills your pattern Press darts and seams as soon requires in your record book. as you finish them. To get a Check off each ski II as you learn smooth, professional look, each it. dart must be pressed before it ACTION IDEA. Practice some goes into a seam, and each seam new skills before you try them must be pressed before it joins on your garment. Ask your lead­ another seam. er which ones you should prac­ (1) Darts are pressed down or tice. Save your samples in a toward the center. notebook. MODELING YOUR GARMENT To keep your hair looking its best, follow these steps: When your garment is fin­ ished, you are ready to show oth­ (1) Brush every day - 100 ers what you have made. But strokes is a good number and first, what about the YOU under takes only a few minutes. your garment? (2) Keep it clean. Wash not once or twice a week, but when Your Posture it needs it. (3) Follow the daily four food Practice walking like this: guide. Your hair can't look its (1) Without shoes, stand with best unless it is well nourished. your back against a wall. Touch (4) Select a style that suits your head, shoulders, and hips your face and figure. to the wall. Your heels should be 3 to 4 inches from the wall. To wash your hair: Your waist does not need to (1) Brush up and forward. touch, but you should not be This removes surface dirt and able to put your hand between snarls. your back and the wall. (2) Soap twice. The first soap­ (2) Keep the top of your body ing cuts the dirt and oil. The straight. Lift your upper leg second cleans the scalp and slightly and walk away from the hair. wall. Your legs, not your head, (3) Rinse well after each should lead as you walk. And soaping. I your shoulders should be ahead (4) Dry with a towel. of your stomach. ACTION IDEA. Plan a club (3) To keep your head and style show for your parents. Be­ I shoulders from bobbing up and fore the show, practice walking down as you walk, try balancing and modeling with the other a book on your head. members in the club. For the event itself, be sure your gar­ Your Hair ment is clean and pressed, that The crowning glory to perfect your hands and hair are extra posture and a new garment is clean, and that you have a big shining hair. smile. '---- JUDGING YOUR GARMENT (5) Wasn't too hard to sew._ Even if you like your garment very much, there may be some things you wish you had done differently. Write down what you like best (6) Can wear it lots of places. and what you don't like about your garment and the way you made it. Then you can keep these things in mind the next time you sew. (1) Good color. (7) Goes with other clothes. _

(2) Good fit. ______

(8) Easy to take care of. _

(3) Becoming style. ___

(4) Looks well sewn. ___ (9) Comfortable. _____

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Publtsued tU'ld · distributed in furtherance of the .Acts o1 May 8 and June •. $01' ·· 1914, by the. Washington State University Cooperative E~nslon Service, Jonn P. Milfer, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, coaperating. 8M 1071 SO