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Available at your local d ist ributors and home centers. OIS is a trademark of Robert Bosch Tool Corporation. The Home Depot Is a registered trademark of Homer TLC. Inc. MAY/ JUNE 2011 • ISSU E 2 19
15 features ADJUSTABLE DADO JIG 36 Half-Blind Dovetails in Half the Time Get the hand-cut look with the speed and consistency of machines BY STEPHEN HAMMER
42 Smoothing Planes lii~l It's the most 1mportant hand tool in the shop, and there are more great cho1ces than e\-er BY CHRIS GOCHNOUR up front 48 Dining Table with Two-Way Drawers A sleek, sturdy des1gn for a versatile table 6 On the Web BY STEPHEN HAMMER 8 Contributors 54 Case Closed 10 Letters How to use off-the-shelf hardware to close cabinet doors in style 14 Methods of Work BY STEVE LATTA , GARRETT HACK , Platform takes guesswork out of AND MICHAEL FORTUNE compound-angle holes • Variable-size dado jig for a router 59 Windsor Rocker Without Special Tools, 20 Tools & Materials Part 2 Quality chisels with a sweetheart price Complete the top half of the chair, add the rockers. QuikJig revolutionizes pocket-hole c;it back. and relax joinery BY PETER GALBERT
24 Fundamentals A Chessboard Made Easy Soup up your crosscut sled 66 Go with v~necr every time 30 Handwork BY CRAIG THIBODEAU Make a pair of grooving planes 72 Switch to Spraying Water-Based Finishes A former ·tacquer head' Rives tips on going green GREAT CHISELS 20 FOR LESS BY TERI MASASCHI
76 Garry Bennett's Un-Trestle Table L'nconventional des1gn is a portrdit of the man BY ASA CHRISTIANA
Cover photo MJII P in the back
82 Readers Gallery
86 Q & A • Match dado set to your saw's power • For accurate joints, always mark from the same face • Thinned shellac works better
90 Master Class How to make thick, light tabletops
98 How They Did It The back cover explained
Back Cover Vaulted Veneer
42 TOOL TEST: SMOOTHING PLANES
~The Taunton Press lJ...J lnspir.rion for h•nd>·on living• THIS MONTH ON FineWoodworking.com/extras Visit our Web site to access free Web tie-Ins. available April 7. While you're there, don't miss our collection of free cootent. Including tool reviews. an exten!lihle project &allery. and must-read blo&s.
Edrtor Ase Christiana
Art Director Michael Pekovlch
Manag1ng Ed1tor Mark Schofield
Sen1or Ed1tor Thomas McKenna
Assocoate Ed1tors St eve Scott VIDEO · A.niiSII Kapsales Shopping Matthew Kenney for a Smoother Wolodymyr Smtsnkewych Find out what to look for Semor CopyI Elizabeth Healy and peek behind the scenes Production Edrtor of our tool test (pp. 42~7 ). Associate Art Oorectors Kelly J. Dunton John Tetreault VIDEO: Admlnostratove Ass1stant Betsy Encel Building with Garry Bennett Shop Manager William Peel< Get In the classroom and watch how Contnbutmg Edotors Chr~tlan BeckSvoort Bennett constructs his ·un-trestle Garratt Hack table· (pp. 76-81). Roland Johnson Steve Latta Mlcllael Fortune
Consultong Ed1tor Jonathan Blnzen
Methods of Work Jim Richey
FlneWoodwork1nc.com
Web Producers Ed Plrnlk Use Moreen
FIM WoodWorlclllt (ISSN· 03613453) lS published Grooving Plane Giveaway bimonthly. Wilt> a specllll seventn ossue on the winter, by The Taunton Press. Ill(; .• Newtown. CT 06-H0-5506 Go online for a dlance to win a pair Telepi\One 203-42&8171 Penodocals postaee paid at of Matt Kenney's shopmade planes Newtown. CT 06470 and at add1t1ona1 ma1lln& offk:es. 30.34). (pp. GST patd registration *123210981.
SUbscnptoon Rates: U.S .. $34 .95 lor one ~ar. S59 95 lor ------~ Become an online member two years. S83.95 for three years Canada. $36 95 lor one Access more than 500 exclusive project and technique vldeoa by sublerlbln& to year. $63.95 for two ~ars. $89.95 for three year5 (GST onclucled. payable on U.S. lund$) Ou1sode ltle U.S Canad., FlneWoodwOtklng.com. Youll also get more than 30 years of macazine ardlives at $4195 for one ~ar. S73 95 for two )ears. Sl~ 95 fO< your fingertips. including 1.4001)1us articleS Mel project plans. three years (payable 111 U.S funds!. So~~ US. s 7 99 Sorcle copy Canada. sa 99
I'IDa~liM : Send address changes to F ne Wooc1workm,. The Taunton Press. Inc .. 63 S Maon St .. PO Box 5506. Master the Bandsaw Neoo.\own. CT 064 70-5506. c..... Paat: Retum unde ~~~erable canaooan Baodsaw setup Resawlng Cuttln& curves 6 F I SF. \\'000 \l'O RKING Request product information online: Go to flnewoodworklng.com/markotplace or call 800-719-6906 • INNOV8 2011 Award Wood l.lagazvle Dec. Jan 20 1(}'2011 www.onelda-alr.com has all of our ponable dust collectors www.finewoodworking.com .\1 A Y I J ll N E 2 0 1 1 7 contributors • l l l l Fine Wqqctworking- Advertising Senior Stephen Giannetti Vice President [email protected] Advertising Director Peter Badeau 203-304-3572 [email protected] Senior Nat1onal linda Abbett Account Manager 203·304-3538 [email protected] Associate Account Kimberly Parrilla Manager 203·304·3590 [email protected] Director of Kristen Lacey Advertising Marketing Senior Marketing Karen Lutjen Manager. Advertising Member Audit Bureau of Circulation Brian Sargent (Master Class) is new to the magazine, but his Senior Consumer Beth Reynolds. ProCirc Marketing Director love of woodworking goes back 30 years. He mastered carpentry at a technical high school and in the Army Corps of Engineers, worked Semor Consumer Melissa Robinson Marketing Manager in a few cabinet and furniture-making shops, and then ventured Sentor Manager Robert Harlow out on his own in 1994. Working solo has allowed him to embrace Web Marketing his love of natural forms, and his furniture often includes sculptural Senior Online Michael Stoltz lines and flowing curves. He is chairman of the New Hampshire Product Manager Furniture Masters Association. If you weren't a woodworker you'd be ... "A National Park ranger." Craig Thibodeau ("A Chessboard Made Easy") recently moved The Taunton Press lrnpir<11tio11 for h:ind5·Qn livir1g• his shop to an old industrial building with more power, more space, Independent publishers since 1975 and high ceilings, which has allowed him to take on larger and more R>unde rs. Paul & Jan Roman complex projects. HP. just began furnishing a new client's home with President Suzanne Roman 12 freestanding and built-in pieces in maple and cherry, featuring EVP & CFO Timothy Rahr floral marquetry. SVP & Chief Paul Spring Proudest moment as a woodworker? ·watching my kids build Content Officer things in the shop." SVP, Creative Susan Edelman SVP, Advertising Stephen Giannetti Despite the recession, Chris Gochnour ("Toot Test: Smoothing SliP. Operations Thomas Luxeder Planes") had a great year, making a long anticipated move to SVP. Ta unton Interactive Jason Revzon a new woodworking studio two miles from his home. Building liP. Digital Content Anatole Burkin the shop was a labor of love, but it was not easy. He was VP. Editorial Development Maria Taylor forced at times to work in his old garage shop and new space VP, Single Copy Sales Jay Annis simultaneously, a logistical problem he hopes never to repeat. Fortunately, with his new workshop complete, his family has a VP & Controller Wayne Reynolds place to park their cars, and all of his tools are in one place. VP. Finance Kathy Worth The tool you can't live without? "My trusted Disston #4 backsaw.• VP. Human Resources Carol Marotti VP. Fulfillment Patricia Williamson PuoHshers of magaz1nes, books, VIdeos. and online We are a reader-wntten magazme. To For more information on our contributors. Fine Woodworking • Fine Homebulldmg . learn how to propose an article. go to Threads • Fme Gardemng · Fine Cooking go to FineWoodworkmg.com 1 authors. F W d . I me oo workmg.com; submrss10ns. www.taunton.com 8 F I N E \X" C) 0 [) W 0 H K I N G Request product information online: Go to finewoodworklng.com;marketplace or call 800-719-6906 No machine for the small shop matches it's capabilities • Innovative design • Power feeds the wood • Dovetails & Finger Joints • Mortises & Tenons • Rabbets, Dados & Grooves • Lap & Bridle Joints 1700MaxCFM 30 Gallon Collection Drum Automated Canister Cleaner Call 513.233.9019 "Few tools attempt to cover such a broad spectrum of joints as Router Boss, it's one of the most effective joint making solutions on the market: - benchmark.20m.com Why Settle for Spec1al Funct1on J1gs? www.finewoodworking.cotn .\1 A Y1J U N E 2 0 I I 9 letters • 1 1 1 • Used bandsaw not a bargain I agree with Roland Johnson (MUsed Machine!> Can Be a Steal.~ f1VW ...218) that huying used machines is a great way to sa1.·e money and get a heavy-duty machine you could not otherwise afford: I have Spotlight done it myself multiple times with great success. But I have to rake issue with his ISSUE NO. 218 band:.c1w example. This sounds to me March/ April 2011 like exactly what not to do when buying p. 49 used. For about the :-.ame (or even less) money he could have hought a new 17-in. machine, with a higger, 2-hp motor, a M ORE TIPS FOR THE ULTIMATE FINISH warranty. and modem fearures like dust-colk>ctton Michael Pekovlch's article, "Wiping Varnish: The Only Finish You'll Ever Need; is the port<;, a covered motor and blade, a miter gauge best finishing article you have ever printed. My finishing evolution basically mirrors included. etc. \'<'hat he his, with one exception. I work mostly with oily woods-rosewoods, zlrlcote, bocote, bought for $250 rumed and so on-and I've learned to prefinish them with dewaxed shellac to seal in into a $92S kit of p-.uts the natural oils. I've also tried this approach on other woods. and now I use it for that he had to source and as.<;emhle himself. everything because It builds the finish significantly faster. -SETH WALTER. I rag on two or three coats cut 50/ 50 with alcohol, and sand lightly between South Windsor. Conn. them. I can get the sealing done in one hour because shellac dries so fast. By the way, finishing the interior parts before assembly greatly reduces the pain. Roland Johnson replie s : Res/orin~ Ibis One other trick I have discovered is to use mlcroflber cloths cut into patches for lxmdo;au• U 'tlS as much about wiping rags. I fold the rough edges into the center of the pad, and I don't get any recycling liS it was alxmt J 10 FINE WOODWORKING To contact us: Fine Woodworking The Taunton Press 63 Soutn Mam Street PO Box 5506 Newtown. CT 064 70.5506 Tel: 203-426-8171 Send an email: [email protected] VIsit: www.tinewoodworkmg.com To submit an article proposal: Wnte to Fine Woodworking at the address above or Call: 800309-8955 Fax: 203-270-6753 Email: [email protected] To subscribe or place an order: Visit www.tinewoodworking.com/fworder or call: 800.888 8286 9am-9pm ET Mon·Fro; 9am-5pm ET Sat To find out about Fine Woodworking prOducts: V1sit www.finewoodworkmg.com/products To get help with online member services: Visit www.f1newoodworking.com/customerserv1ce To find answers to frequently asked Qllestlons: Visit www.tinewoodworkmg.com/ FAQs To contact Fine Woodwol'k!ng c11stomer service: Email us at [email protected] To speak directly to a customer service professional: Call 800.477·8727 9am-5pm ET Mon-Frl To sell Fine Woodworking In your store: Call us toll·free at 866-505-4674. or email us at [email protected] To advert.lse In Frnt~ Woodworking: Call800309-8954. or ema11 us at [email protected] Mailing list: We make a port1on of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that we not include your name. please vis1t: www.finewoodworkmg.com/ privacy or call: 800477-8727 9am-5pm ET MonFn For employment Information: Visit www.careers.taunton.corn The Taunton guarantee: If at any time you're not completely satisf•ed with Fine Woodworking. you can cancel your subscription and rece1ve a full and 1mmed1ate refund of the entire subscnpt1on pr1ce. No Questions asked. Copynght 2011 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduct1on wothout permission of The Taunton Press. Inc. \1 A ~· /J U N F. 2 0 I I 1 1 1etters continued de.signers and product engineers have Correction: Tool chest missing some parts ever cut a board. "The North Bennet Street Tool Chest" (FW1-f,. #216) is a very nice project. but it has Here are a couple of tips. johnson two fundamental tlaws. For one. the middle partition docs not continue all the w01y rL>eonmlends listening to a llt:aring using back, which would prevent side-to-side rnovem<:>nt of the drawers on both sides of a long screwdriver. There is a better way. it. Also, with no guide strip on the out..,ide of the drawers, they will rub against the Cut a broomstick IH in. long. Gr&sp it inside of the c.Ibinet. l11is would not be an issue except that the case continues out around thl' top with your thumb sticking with a lip, where any W<::ar will be noticeable. up. Now stick the thumb in your ear. -DAVID BRAY, Damascus, Md. I used this method for years in a steel Guide strip rolling mill to check the condition of Middle stile roller bearings. Also, Johnson struggled to get his ne\V handsaw tires onto the wheels. Heat them in hot water and they'll go on much easier. - MONRO E MECHLI NG, Steubenville, Ohio Resharpening a toothed plane blade Having burned many calories over a scrub plane, nne of my favorite tools, I was inten:sted in the desoiption of the Lie-Nielsen toothed iron in Christian Bccksvoott's article ("One Bench Plane Can Do It All.'' FW'\V#217). But I was left wondering what one docs to re-tooth it after a number of sharpenings. -CHARLIE MORRI SON , Powell River, B.C., Canada Steve Brown replies: I neglected to mention a simple RUide strip that Roes hetweeu the IU'O drawers i11 the top letlf!l. It sits on a middle stile of the diuider frmne he/ow those drawers. It doesn't help tbat we also leji that middle stile out of the e\ploded dmwiug In m~r case, hoth are clearfv needed for ti.H! drawen; to function. well. }tt..<;t mill tbe strip to the s~une thickness a .. About your safety Working wood is inherently dangerous. Using hand or power tools (or elsewhere) until you're certain they are safe for you. If something improperly or Ignoring standard safety practices can lead to permanent about an operation doesn't feel right. find another way. We want you injury or even death. Don't perform operations you learn about here to enjoy the craft, so please keep safety foremost in your mind. 12 FINE WOODWORKING Drawin~· Boh w Potnt<· Request product information online: Go to finewoodworklng.comjmarketplace or call 800-719-6906 www.RADARCARVE.NET Wood Carving Duplicators • Furniture Premium Carbtde • Gunstoclu Stiver Soldered - - -- • Millwork Anti-Ktckback Destgn • Decoys : Kempstori Teflon® Coated • MusicaJ C.N.C. Precision Ground Instruments • CIMKVt ...... , ..,.,. .,.,.,...,.,... .,.., t ... ,.,..~ • Propellers ...... c ...... , Cutting through htgh prices wrth •Carved Figures Thousands of uses! 505-948-0571 Connecticut Val1ey School of Woodworking Bob Van Dyl www.fine w o odworking.com M A Y/JUNE .20 11 13 methods of work EDITED AND DRAW N BY JIM R ICHEY .. 1 1 1 • Bevel angle Miter angle Best Tip Platform takes guesswork out of compound-angle holes Legs meet seat Gelling ready to build a stool recently, I was having at compound trouble figuring out a way to drill tht> compound angle. angle holes in the seat for the legs. Thinking about the process, I spied my comJX>Und-miter saw, and it hit me: I could use the saw to make a platfonn that holds the seat at the correct angle for drilling. Tom Collins was Consult your plans to cak:ulate the two angles for inspired to start the holes (for this stool, the angles are the same). woodwortdng at Set the miter to match the front-to-back angle Cut compound angle age 4, when he and the ll<::vcl for the side-to-side anglt>. Trim on each end of 2x4 followed his dad IX>th ends of a short 2x'i at the compound blank. Cut support around his shop. He angle. Return the saw to its 90° settings and blocks from the blank. has developed his then cut off o n<: end of the beveled 2x-i about woodwortdng skills 2 in. long. Attach this cutoff along one edge Support by building furniture, of :tn MDF base with double-faced tape. By the blocks, with double· working on his way, the compound angle also can be cut using a faced tape home, and studying miter gaugt.• on the tablesaw. on top magazines, books, For the second support, temporarily place the and videos. He says scat tlat on the first block and measure how long his passion for the the second block ne{·ds to be to support the other craft Is fueled by his side of the seat. Square cut tape. Finally. mark the hole locations on the ~eat on bottom. and attach the scat to the blocks-top side up--with press table more tape. Using a Forstner bit, drill the first hole on the low end of the platform. Take light cuts and 1. Drill dear chips frequenlly, especially when you're about to break through. Once the first hole is done, simply rotate thl' scat 90° to cut the remaining holes. Be aware that on seats where the:: two parts of the compound angle are not equal. you·n only be abk A Reward for the Best Tip to drill two Send your original tips to Methods of Work, diagonally Fine Woodworking. PO Box 5506, opposite holes. Newtown, CT 06470, or email then tlip the blocks [email protected]. We pay over and re-attach them for every tip we publish; the to drill the last pair best tip also wins a Ue Nielsen low-angle of holes. -TOM COlLINS , block plane. Clamp platform to successive hole. Chatsworth, Calif. drill-press table. 14 fiNE WOODWORKING Benchtop caddy is great for sandpaper sharpening Lid, lfa·in. plywood I use wet-or-dry abrasive parer on glass for sharpening. But storing the difTerenr ..-----,. Hardboard strips comronents separately was making keep glass!" place. the process inefficient. So I made this / .- simple caddy d1at holds four pieces ,/ of glass :~nd grades of abrasive. I can quickly take the caddy from storage. place it on the bench, open the lid, and l)e~in sharpening. The 3A-in. ~IDF hase holds the glass pit>ccs, '"'hich fit snugly hetween Wide cleat acts thin strips of hardboard screwed and as bench hook. glued to the base. The strips are thin enough to give me a fingerhold on the Base, ¥•·in. MDF 1A-in.-thick glass, in cast: l nl.'cd to remove any of the pieces. The hinged plywood lid Jocks Latch in place with a clasp ;~nd twist latch. A piece of hard\vO Fixed base clamped Base pieces, to workpiece 'llt·in.-thick plywood Variable-size dado fixture for a router Here's an adjustable jig that allows you to rout a dado of Index marks any width, e\'en ones that don't tit standard hit sizes. It con!'iist~ of a fixed base and a sliding base that meet at :.1 10° angle. Each base bali a 2-in.-high cleat for clamping. When building the fiXture, first make the ~liding hase a littlt> wider at the fence and trim it to size v.:ith the first router cut using the bit you will use :1/i a standard. To align and cut the dado, fir.;t clamp the rn·o bases together. Place the router hit edge of the jig directly on the cut line, clamp the fixed base to the workpiece, and rout the first pass of the dado. Now remove the cleat clamps and adjust the !-i liding hase for the second pass by moving it up or down, effectively moving the router cut left or right of the pre\·ious setting. Aftt>r positioning the !-iliding base. reclamp :~.cross the cleats and make the second pass. The concept can be applied to ;~ny size jig. In my I : case, the jig was .:;o in. long and roughly 18 in. wide. You can place index marks on the damping cleats Sliding base for future reference. -RON TANCREOE, Jacksonville, Fla. www.finewoodworking.com MAY/JUNE 20ll 15 methods of work continued Laminated mortise-and-tenon joint Miter outside edge of post. conceals mortise. I recently Laminated made a bell headboard headboard using post :,ome exotic hardwO Quick Tip Lift-lid stick Magnet Whenever I need to set a router bit or a .,-·· · tablesaw blade to an -- exact height, I take a twist-drill bit with a diameter equal to the height I want and lay it down with the end of the shank against the blade as I adjust Magnetic lid lifter keeps finish off your hands the height. When the top of the blade aligns Here is a handy way to lift off and replace the lids of paint with the shank of the and varnish cans without getting the g 16 FINE WOO DWORKING Request product information online: Go to flnewoodworking.comjmarketplace or call 800·719-6906 Free plans, tips, and more Sign up for Fine Woodworking's ... Eliminates filler Ctoaatna. FREE eLetter filled with ... Retrollls to Any Wet/ Dry Yac. skill-building advice, ... No Loss al Suction. Mode in projects, and more. ..,. Eosy lo E11111Y Buckel SJStem. the USA Oneida" Plus, get a FREE project plan ,.: Air Syst? when you sign up today. ~ Oust Collection Systems &Components Fine Sign up: FineWoodworking.com/eletter W.qQQ%rking Colt lor Free Cololog! Order Online' 1.800.732 .4065 www.oneido·oir.com www.finewoodworking.com MAY / JUNE 1011 17 methods of work continued Tool-stand drawer makes most of wasted space ln my continuing efforu; to Quick Tip optimize lhe storage space in my ba.~ment workshop, I came When I'm using up wilh lhe 1dea of purring a commercial drawer drawer under the tools l" ve slides, If I build mounted on splayed-leg stands. the drawer box too This setup not only provides narrow, I just shim a handy drawer, hut also a out the drawer useful shelf without using a bit slides with a piece of extra shop space. The shelf Blocks. screwed of veneer or veneer case slips berween the splayed to drawer box. tape. It's simple, lock box in legs, sits on the stretchers (or place. quick, and nearly lower on the mobile stand), undetectable as the and locks in place with blocks strip Is hidden by the screwed into the four corners. I drawer slide member. used 5fs-in. melamine to make -KEN DILLE, my drawer, but any sheet goods Austin, Teus would ~·ork fine. My only purchase was the full-extension drawer slides. - SERGE DUCLOS , Delson , Que., Canada Storage drawer rests on stretchers of stand. Packing tape Easy-to-remove paper templates Lots of woodworke~ use spray adhesive for anaching paper templates to wood. The stuff works. but I've always found it a pain to remove the template after the cut is complete. especially for small or intricate pans. And the adhesi\'e leaves a nasty residue on the wood. Here·s my solution: First, use packing tape to CO\er the area where the template ,,·ill he placed. Now spray the template with adhesive and attach it ro the workpiece on top of the tape. When you are done with the cut, peel up the tape Paper template along with tht: paper template. Simple and clean. attaches over tape with spray adhesive. - JAY SU LLIVAN, Washington, N.C. 18 FINE WOODWORKING 18 Gauge Finish Stapler Our new oil-free finish nailers are engineered to help you achieve the level of craftsmanship you were always capable of. They offer precision-«iriven features such as dry-fire lockout, dial-a-depth technology, swivel fittings, patented profile tips ... even an integrated pencil sharpener. For nearly 40 years, Stanley-Bostitch has designed 1ts products to be the most rehable&durable pneumatic tools available. Maybe that's why more finish carpenters and serious woodworkers rely on Stanley Bostitch products more than any other major brand.* tools & materials • l l l ... • H AND T OOLS Quality chisels at a sweetheart price HEN STANLEY STOPPED MAKING To gauge the Stanley Sweetheart Ch1sels. 750 Series ITS 750 SERIES of socket chis edge n:tention of the hlades. $220 for a set of eight; 5130 fo r a eb more than ..f0 years ago. th~· I put the chisels through a rigorous per set of four; 530 to $35 individually; Wdemand didn't stop. Revered highlandwoodworking.com fommnce test on cherry and white oak. for their quality and price, these chiseLs Using a mallet. I trimmed the ends of the have been widely sought-after on the board~. I al~o drow the tip of the chisd second-hand tool market for years. Now extra work to flatten. Overall. I gave into the wood repeatedly, simulating the Stanley has revived the "'50 series. offer the set a B for flatness. One other thing dovetailing process_ The edge retention ing a gre • EASURING AND ARKING The high price of perfection THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN MAKING A SLIDING BEVEL is to create a locking mechanism that holds the blade firmly without Interfering with the use of the tool. On most models, it doesn't take much to knock the blade off angle, but the sliding bevels from Vesper Tools of Australia lock tight with a simple twist of a knurled brass knob. The locking mechanism holds the blade more securely than any other bevel I've used, and It is always out of the way. In addition, the fit and finish of the tool Is flawless. The beefy stainless-steel blade fits like a glove to the solid or wood-lnfllled brass body. The solid body is Vesper Tools Sliding Bevels less expensive, but I prefer the feel and balance of the infllled one. 4-in. sliding bevel: $146 for brass, $200 for wood inf1ll; It's rare to come across a perfect tool, but Vesper's sliding bevels come pretty 7-in. sliding bevel: $170 for brass. $242 for wood infill; close. If you can afford one, you won't be sorry. lO·in. slid1ng bevel: $283 for wood inflll: - Michael Pekovich Is fWW's art director vespertools.com 20 F I ~ E ,,. 0 0 D W 0 R K I :-J G Set It, and • JIGS fortet lt. Once you install the QuikJig revolutionizes stop collar on the bit using pocket-hole joinery the onboard jig, you won't have BUILD A LOT OF CABINETS, and I often use pocket holes for the face to do It again. frames and toe kicks because the joints are plenty strong and are quick and simple to make. Now Porter-Cable has made the job even easier \Vith the Quikjig. I Dial In the The first thing I noticed was the tool's mass, which adds stability to _ hole posi this benchtop tool. But the jig's simple setup and convenient features tions. Set the make it a re-dl winner. hole spacing First. installing the stop collar on by rotating the the drill bit is easy to do us large knob on ing an onboard jiK What's top of the jig. more, the setup works One-shot clamping. The rotating clamp handle both woodcraft. com locks the stock and automati cally sets the drilling depth. for any thickness mate rial you need to drill (from Vz in. to 1V2 in. thick). Screw spacing is simple to adjust (from 3/4 in. to 13AJ in. on center) using an easy-to-grip knob on the side. The clamping mechanisms are very strong and held narrow 3f.t-in.-wide stock in place without shifting. An adjustable stop keeps the workpiece aligned and makes easy work of repeat cuts in material of the same width and thickness. If you are drill ing stock that's wider than the jig, you need to unthread the stop completely and slide it out of the way, a cumbersome process; I'd prefer some sort of quick release. Aside from that detail, this beautifully engineered jig is a snap to set up. and after that, light ning fast to use. The jig has a removable dust port, which helped prevent chips from building up and interfering with the job. Drill, baby, Drilling pocket holes in a long piece drill. Drill- hdd vertically can be awkward, but the ing goes very Quik.Jig takes care of that, too. You can quickly, and a simply flip down the jig and support the handy scale on workpiece with a stand:.Hd 2x-i. the side tells Although the price tag on the Quik.Jig you the screw may turn away casual pocket joinery us length you need for your ers, those who rely on pocket screws will value all that it has to offer. Long board? No problem. If a piece is too -l'..tark J:'dmumison is afurnifltrr? maker unwieldy to drill vertically, flip the jig down and in Sandpoim. Idaho. put a 2x4 under the workpiece for support. MAY / J U NE .2011 21 tools & materials continued • OUST CONTROL One company, two ways to capture dust ON THE TABLESAW FROM YOUR ROUTER TABLE F YOU HAVE A BENCHTOP TABLESAW or contractor saw with no ~lust port, the Dust Curter II will help you breathe ea-;1er. Keen Products I Dust Router The Dust Cutter II is basically a zippered nylon bag that $40: woodcraft.com attaches to the bottom of a benchtop or contractor tablesaw with hook-and-loop fasteners. You also could mount it per manently through the existing bolt holes in the saw's base. Installation took me less than 30 minutes. The manufacturer mentions three ways to catch dust with the bag. You can simply let it collect in the bag and empry it using the zipper. or you can leave the bag unzip~d and let the dust drop into a container placed under the saw. How ever. with both of those options, a lot of sawdust simply goes airborne. The best method is to hook up a dust collector or shop vacuum to the 2112-in.-dia. dust port on the bag. In that mode, the Dust Cutter 11 is a great tool to help control dust on benchtop and contractor tablesaw!>. Router catches particles -Tom McKen11a is senior editor. above and below the table. Keen Products Dust Cutter II $40; woodcraft.com OUTER TABLES MAKE A HUGE MESS. E\·en if you ha\'e a dust collector hooked up to a port in the fence. Ryou still get a pile of shavings and dust underneath the table. Keen Products has come to the rescue with the Dust Router. The Dust Router is designed to catch dust above and below the table. but the genius part happens below. A soft silicone collection cup that fits around the router col let catches any dust particles not picked up from abo\'e (through the fence)and funnels them to the dust collector. The cup is flexible, so it won't impede raising and low ering the router. It also won't interfere with bit changes works best when above the table. Howe\'er, if you need to reach under the hooked up to a table with your wrench, the cup will deny ac<:ess. That vacuum or dust meanf> you'll have to remove the motor from the hase for collector. bit changes-an inconvenience. I used a large ogee bit on some pine. white oak, and poplar, and the Dust Rourer caught nearly all the dust being spewed. Only a smattering of chips made it to the floor and the tabletop. 0\'erall. the tool works great. The package includes the cup and mounting plat~ . T -<:onnector. and all the hoses and hardware you'll need to install the system. The Dust Router ~·ill work on any router table, e\'en a simple one made from pl}"o'o•ood. If you have a router lift. however. I'd recommend checking with the manufacturer about the installation and operation. -Roland johnson is a contrlbuttng editor. 22 F I :"' E W 0 0 D \,\;' 0 R K t N G • M ACHINES New benchtop planer features insert cutters INSERT-TOOTH TECHNOLOGY IS BECOMING All THE RAGE with planers and jointers. The small, precisely placed cutters produce a more A fresh edp. The planer features uniform flat surface than long knives, which two-sided insert cuners made tend to leave undulations behind. As a bonus. from high-speed steel. the cutters can be changed quickly and easily. General International has joined the fray with when planing a shelf to fit a dado. a new 13-in. benchtop planer that features a The machine also features a stagger-tooth spiral head with 26 two-sided turret-style thickness stop for stan high-speed-steel cutters. The cutterhead dard thicknesses of ~ ln., 1.4 ln., ¥.r ln., planes with less noise and lower power de and 3.4 in. A gauge on the front quickly mand, which means it can take slightly shows how much material you are about heavier cuts than its straight-knived to plane off, so you can avoid making too counterparts. heavy a cut. I put the planer through its paces for A dual-sized dust-collection hookup (2¥.r ln. about a week. planing hardwoods. softwoods. and 4 ln.) matches easily to either a shop vacuum and figured woods. Overall cut quality is gOod. But or dedicated dust-collection system, a very con there's a lot more to like about this tool. First, the venient feature. Power is rated at 2 hp and can cutterhead moves exactly Y.i.& in. with one full turn be run on a 120-volt circuit. Handles on the sides of the depth-adjustment crank handle. That allows make lifting the 59-lb. planer easy. you to dial in the depth of cut with precision. say. S650. v1sit general.ca for retailers Overall. this is a solid performer. -RJ. WOLF BENCH PAWTM www.finewoodworking.com ~ I A Y /J U :-; E 2 0 1 1 fundamentals ' l l l l rosscutting furnirure parts to length seems like an of the way the blade spins, tea rout happens on the rear and easy job, but-as with the t:ntire milling process- bottom faces of the workpiece. So you need to ensure that the ~mall inaccuracies can lead to complications like blade opening in the sled's deck and rear fence fits snugly openings that aren't square or joints that won't dose. around the blade that you are using. If th~: blade opening is Most furnirure makers mak~: their critical crosscuts on worn at all. or if you've switched to a narrower blade, attach the tablesaw, using either a miter gauge or a crosscut a rt•ar auxiliary fence made of 'A-in. MDF and a new deck sled. I showed how to get more from your miter gauge in F\V\f/ made of lJs-in. or 1A-in. MDF or plyv.:ood. I attat·h and repla<:e •205, but the hest tool for precise cros~cur.s is the sled. A well these auxiliary pieces as needed to en.... un: the best cut. Cut a made crosscut sled carries the workpiece and controls tearout. It frl·sh kerf through them and the sled ""ill vinually eliminate can handle much larger workpieces. And with a variety of stop tearout. But just to be safe, try to position workpieces so that block...;;. it's also great for producing matching multiple pieces. the most important surface is on top. For example, cut drawer Once you've built a sled (see my version in Rules of Thumb: fronts face up. "Tahlesaw carriage jigs," FWW •160). you'll be on your way to making dean. accurate crosscuts. But there is more to the story. Cutting a single piece to length When crosscutting a single piece, I follow one of two strategies , How to tame tearout to locate the cur. If the kerf slot on the sled's auxiliary fence stil1 For any crosscut you make on the sled. there are a couple of closely fits the blade I'm using, I'll use the slot as a referen<:e steps you can take to reduce tearout dramatically. Because point for the cut. After squaring one end of the stock, make a 24 Fl!'IE WOODWORKING WORN KERF place a new base ALLOWS TEAROUT layer made of ¥../n. MDF or plywood. Over time, the blade opening becomes enlarged, leaving a gap around the blade. When this happens. the sled no longer su~ ports the workpiece next to the cut The result is tearout Fresh fence. Make pencil mark the auxiliary fence onthcrop from ~-ln. MDf. Just clamp It on. Making back edge the fence extra-long of the workpiece (as shown) isn't and line it up with the edge necessary, but It of the kerf slot. After any crosscut, accommodates a ~!ide the workpiece away from the blade stop block for longer before pullin~ the sled back to you. workp ieces. If the kerf slot is worn. I often make what I call a -sliding cuC After squaring an end, mark the length on the lower from edge of the stock where the blade The PIIYOH. The zero will make fir:.t contact. Start the cut to the clearance openings wa-.te side of the line and make a ~hallow support the wood fi cut with the carbide tooth tip.s so that you bers where the blade eidts the cut helping GJn just !>Ce Mock being remo\'cd. \X"uh the teeth -;till in the cut, slide the stock eliminate tearout. As a bonus. you can until the cut lines up with your mark; then trust the edge of the complete the crosscut. kerf when aligning Cutting multiples: The magic stop block The idea when cutting multiple pieces to the 'arne length is just that-making !'.UrL' that each piece exactly matches it-. mate~ . Cut that second rail just a fra<.-rion of an inch too shon. and your door fmme will not ~o together squarely. Cbmpeu securely to your sled's fence, a stop block hold ... the squa~d end of each workpiece ~u exactly the 'arne di-.unce from the blade. ensuring precisely matched pans. It might -.et·m like any piece of S<.&ap would work a~ a stop block, but once again, the detail!. maucr. nu~ block ~hould com<.· from milled stock, with flat faces ami square edges ami corners. It :-.hould be no taller than the !.led's fence and ~I A Y /J l' N E 2 0 I I .25 fundamentals continued A BA c lOC for most work Rehef cuts at the block's rear and bottom edges prevent dust Glue sandpaper to from building up and throwing back of the block to off the block's accuracy. grip sled fence \ sure from the sled ~ kerl to locate the stop block, but elevate the ruler to avoid the relief cut under the block (above). Also, make sure the block Is square to the sled's Front edge of block must deck for accurate be 90" for accurate cuts on cuts In stock of an.) workpieces of various heights. thickness. A HINGED lOCK wide enough to accommodate a couple of clamps. Make the for added convenience block thick enough <'A in. to 1 in.) to pro\•ide a solid stopping surface. llclicf cuts at the rear and bonom corn<.'r!> prevent dust buildup that could throw off a cut's accuracy. Also, check that the block's stopping surface is square to the sh..-d's deck. An angled block can give you an inaccurate cut. especially if you are cuning workpieces of varying thicknesses. To help make l>Urc that th<..' block stay:. put. cover the back with adhesin~-backed sandpaper. This helps the block bite intd the sled's fence and resist !>tiding. Second. usc two damps to sct:urc it to the fence. This limit!> any tendency for the block to' slide or pivot, important when t·utting The author's large numbers of pieces. Last, remember favorite. A hinge to gently slide the workpiece into place lets you swing against the block. Don't bang it home 01l the lower half out of the way when you risk altering the length of the cui. squaring the first To set the block in the right place. end of a piece. then use a steel rule if possible (a tape is drop It Into place less accurate) to lln<.l the appropriate for cutting to final distance from the blade's teeth. When length. A lip at the you have many workpieces to cut, makt1 top references l>Url' you organize them in a way that against the top edge of the sled's helps you keep track of the work. I fence, squaring the always stack the workpieces to my right' block every time. with the squared l'nd away from me. I re-stack the cut pieces to my right but 26 Request product information online: Go to flnewoodworking.com;marketplace or call 800-719-6906 DBS-i!i! DRILL BIT SHARPENING ATTACHMENT Keep your Fine Woodworking back issues looking brand new. Stor~ your treasured copies of Fint Woodworking in slip.:ases for easy ~r~~nce again and agam! Bound in d.uk blu~ and ~mbossro in gold, each case holds mor~ than a year's worth of Fi11r Wood-rking. Only S8.95 ($24.95 for 3, S49.95 for 6). Plu. sh1pping and handling. Pay•bl• in U.S. fund>. To place dO ordt'r, c.all 1-800-888-8286 Mon.·Fn 9AM . 9PM El.T and Sat 9AM. · SPM t:ST International customers, call203-702·2204 THE DREAM TEAM Felder 700 Series - versatility and industrial quality www.feldergroupusa.com See Our Complete Product line & Videos www. fi newoodworki ng.com MAY/JUNE .2011 27 fundamentals continued Hook-.tyfe block. Two clamps hold this block farther away than the working stack. You might organize in place. Latta adds a your work differently. The point is to make your system deep-reach clamp to help consistent. so you can rely on it. hold the long workpiece against the sleds fence. Special stop blocks: the long and short of It Sometimes you need to nit a workpiece to a length that is longer than your sled's width. This leaves you with no place to ana<.:h a conventional stop block. TI1e solution is a hook A SLI DIN lOC . type of block designed to extend beyond the sled's reach. for small pieces The block, which can be cut on the handsaw from 112-in. or The clamped block Before the blade enters 3J4-in.-thick plywocxJ, is notched at the far end to h 28 I' 1 N E W 0 0 D W 0 R K l N G No. 5 150875 No. 4 150874 No. 3 150873 Wood CJ(jyer V3 Bench Planes V3: Like our previous Wood River' Bench Planes, our version 3 is based on the reliable Bedrock design and features heavy, stress-relieved ductile iron castings, tully machined adjustable frogs and A-2 blades, but we took the opportunity between manufacturing runs to do a critical review and make a few improvements. We ·ve changed the shape of the rear tote and increased the diameter of the blade adjustment wheel to make ad vancing the blade a bit easier. We improved the lateral adjustment lever and added a traditional style bearing for better control of the blade. We 've made numerous changes to the castings that result in better "feedback" and a solid feel to the user. Working closely with our own manufacturer, we've continued to make improvements in machining, finish and func tionality which we feel have yielded hand planes that are meant to be used and offer an extraordinary value. ~~ woodcraft's WoodRiver<'P V3 planes are ~game changers,' and 1am proud to have helped with their development. Woodcraft hired me to evaluate and make their planes better. The result is a line of affordable, premium planes. " - Rob Cosman, Your Hand Tool Coach handwork .. 1 1 1 l Make a pair of grooving planes A FAST, QUIET WAY TO CUT GROOVES IN SMALL PARTS BY MAT T KENNEY en I make a cabinet with small a simple solution. So I made a pair of grooving START WITH THE BLADES rawers or a box with trays, r enjoy planes with integral fences. A pair is needed This plane Is built around W:1e time Jt my workbench making so that you can always cut with the grain. They the blade, so get that first. and fitting the parts with hand tools and a few plow a perfect groove in about a minute, with You can make your own hench jigs ("Make Short Work of Small Parts,'' no setup needed. By the way, you can make from tool steel, as I used F\f/W #214). Unfortunately, the efficiency and your set larger if you wish, and use it for full to do. But after I showed tranquility of my work were always intem1pted size drawers. my planes to Thomas when it came time to make grooves for the Lie-Nielsen, he offered to make and sell the bottom panels, a task r did at the router table Body is a three-part sandwich blades. A pair costs or tablesaw. I like using planes, not making them, so I made $50 (Lie-Nielsen.com). One day }t hit me: The grooves r use for these using a simple technique popularized by Lie-Nielsen sells small tray and drawer bottoms are always the James Krenov. A middle piece, cut in two to similar blanks In same size and are inset the same distance form the bed, throat and mouth, is laminated other sizes. You'll from the edge, so I don't need a power tool between two sides. (On this plane, the middle just need to bevel that can cut grooves of various widths or has piece also acts as the skate, controlling the and heat-treat an adjustable fence. A molding plane that depth of the groove.) Because you cut apart the these yourself. cuts a groove rather than a profile would be middle piece at the tablesaw, it is easy to get 1fs in. ~3/s i n.~ ¥2 in. · ~ Core Skate 30 FINE WOODWORKING PhO!o (this page) ~nd dr•wings. Kelly). Dunton Start with the sides Side • Jf• in. thick by 21,1• in. tall v, in. use a router table to create the rabbet that will act Rip tiHt otiHtr side to fft. Kenney lines up the j_ ....._~ as the fence. ~ sllin.~ tablesaw fence with the top of the rabbet to get the exact width of the narrower side, and then rips that side to size. Add the core Cut the eore Into two part.. Square up one end of the core and then set the miter gauge to the bed angle. T Cut the bed to length. 2V•In. Cut the throat angle. and then crosscut the throat piece to size. 1 Glue the bed to tlte fence side. Before Set the blade In place to mark the Penellllne and outside edps guide placement. Glue the tightening down the clamp, let the glue throat openlnt. Leave enough clearance throat piece In place, eyeballing It and feeling for alignment. tack up slightly and feel around the for the blade to fit through, plus about edges for the precise alignment. ¥ ... ln. for chip clearance. MAY/)L'NE 2011 31 • handwork continued Make and fit the wedge Fit the ~ In the partJMty usembled ,.,.. Test.fit the wedge. If the angle lsn 't quite right mark the wedge and tweak the angle to nt using sand paper on a flat surface. Test the fit and repeat as needed to get a tight fit along both the front of the throat and the blade. Wedge. v. in. thick a perfectly fo nned bed. throat, and mouth. Mortising and filing are not needed. I llSl' beech for the sides, but you could use any hard. stable wood. I start with a 5/ 4 board about 18 in . long because I mak~.: two planes at o nce and it is safer milling a longer hoard. Resaw the board into two pieces, just Slt•pe the top of the over lfz in. and 3..11 in. thick. After jointing -~· Mark the shape the resawn faces, plane the boards to final and cut It out on the thickness. I np the thicker, wider board to bandsaw, and sand It to a finished smoothness. width, rout a rabbet on the side that will have It should be about ¥.t ln. the fence, and then rip the other side to width. below the top of the At this point, I crosscut both pieces tv.·ice. This blade. Kenney adds a breaks apart the two long pieces, leaving me finger notch. with the four sides of two planes. Now joint and plane a core piece from any hard, durable wood, so its thickness is equal to the blade's width. At the tablesaw, crosscut the stock to form the bed and throat pieces. Fit the wedge and add finishing touches Start by gluing the bed and throat pieces to the side with the fence. Line up the top, back, and front edges with your fmgers to ensure that the bed and throat are at the right angles. Clamp them in place, taking care Add the second side. that no glue ends up in the throat. &gin to After the wedge Is finished, glue on the second side, again ~ Online Extra waiting for the glue to Go to FlneWoociWorklnc.com;extr.. for a chance to win a pa1r of Matt tack slightly and align Kenney's grooving planes. Ing the pieces by feel before clamping. 32 FINE WOOD W O RK I NG • Request product information online: Go to flnewoodworking.com/markotplace or call 800-719-6906 Precision Beaded Face-fnme SVstem No more mrtenng. nailing. or glu•no You can budd beautiful beaded face-frames on your router table With the Kreg PreciSIOn Beaded Face-Frame Sy5tem. lNnl _,.IIWWW.lreiiHl~ www.fine woodworking.com MAY I) UN E 2 0 1 I .33 handwork continueo Finish up Bit hole helps clear sh•vlnta. Use a Forstner bit at the drill press to cut a hole that meets the bed but does not cut into it. To help the chlp.s reach the hole, saw a slot that lines up with the mouth. makl· the wedge from the same pict·e of stock used to make the bed and throat pieces. Cut it oversize :It the handsaw :md tweak the fit with sandpaper. After fitti ng the wedge, cut the top. Round over slt•rp You'll cut it to length (at the bottom) after you edges. On the back end of the plane, finish ~l uin~ the body together. Glue on the where your hand wraps second side of the pla ne body. around it, Kenney uses After removing the damps. drill the chip a ¥2-in.-dia. roundover clearance hole. It also ma ke~ a great fmger bit In a router table. A hold. so chamfer its edges for comfort. I used backer board prevents a trim router and chamfer hit. hut a file or tearout on the end sandpaper works. Next, mund over the edges grain and improves t/Je of the plane. Now, take a few light shavings plane's stability as you guide it past the bit off the ~kate on the side that doesn't fa.:e the He breaks the rest of fenn~ so that it won't hind in the groove. ·n1cn the sharp edges with cut hack the.: bottom tip of the wedge ~o that sandpaper. shavings don't get jammed in the mouth. Cut it. plane a gnx)ve, and rej)l'at unt il the pl;me is dearing shavings without trouble. I finb.h the plane with two thin coats of Tried & Tme Danish oil, wiping ofl the exc<..·ss after each. Using the plane There is no learning curve here. Use a sharp blade, !>.l:'t for a slightly heavier cut than for a smoothing plane. I \Vork against a planing stop, holding the workpiece with my hand. Take the first passes slow and us~: your lower fingers to press the fence against th\.· edge of Keep the sk•te run ning smoothly. Use a the hoaru being grooved. After the groove has shoulder plane to take het>n started. you can speed up. However. you a few light shavings off shoukl still apply pressure to the fence. 0 the skate. and don't forget to wax the skate Matt Ken ney is an associate editor. before use. 34 FINE WOOOWORKING Request product information online: Go to flnewoodworking.com/ marketplace or call 800-719-6906 the WoodRlt Ep-iLo:g L~ ~ is not just there for the PhotoLaser Plus dovetailing Systems start ng at $7 9951 The MR4 Mortise rail clocks in the size and position of any number of mortises, on up to four stiles in one quick and accurate set-up. It makes a perfect fit for and see how it will provide slum ~"9 photo eng raving the round ended tenons. results at www.~oglaser.com/fw.ttm -~ . go see the movie- www.woodrat.com [email protected]· • ~37~~64 - ~ finewooclwo<1\lnc.comr marl The woodworker's choice: Llgnomat Noua.re Neters Buy Accuracy, Reliability Quality and a 2 yr warranty. Check out our new Website www.moisture-problems.com pin ~~USA Port'-! OR 97Z30 and 1434S NE Morris Ct50J-ZS7-89S7 pinleu 100·227·2105 VAKuum Pressing Equipment Plywood for Your Art es Industries orE- plywood, with 1\s Super-Pro 5 CFM automatic vaaJum system With a a·s· X 52" POly beg only $795 www.ApplePiy.com 800 547-5484 www.qualityvak.com 1 800.626.1981 States Industries LLC Ouahly VAKuum Products, Inc 43 Brad foro Stroot Concor(), MA 01742 PhOoo • 1978P69·21149 Fa• • (ll78)369-2928 E-Mnil • QVPCQ•J1llily.at.com Eugene, OR www.fi newoodwork i ng.com ~ ~ ... r I J ll :-; E 2 0 1 I o joint says ··hand 'Iii!-~ - - --~ -~.. - ~--.... -- ,r - - - .._, .... made·· murc than half DOVETAIL LAYOUT IS SIMPLE N blind dnvt•tails wilh Because you'll be using the bandsaw jig on the following page to cut the tails, you need to lay out the ddkate pins. so I ust• them on tails just once. drawers as one way to distin Mark the length guish my furniture from the of the tails. Use a furniture churnt•d out hy fac marking gauge with tories. However, because tra a knife-type cutter to ditional techniques for making scribe all four sides. Do this on all the dovetails rdy heavily on hand drawer sides. By the tools, they can cat up a lot of way. Hammer turned shop time. Timt." is something his pin gauge into a a professional furniture maker knife gauge by filing a can "t waste, so I de\'eloped a bevel on the pins. nwthod for l"Uttin~ the joint with a bandsaw and a router. It gi\'eS me the hest of both """Orkb. I get tlw rdlncd look of a hand-cut joint. hut I a<.·hieve it with the speed and n>nsistency only power t< >ols can offer. I start by cuttin~ the rails at tht: handsaw. using an incred ibly simple jig-it's really just a tapered lx>:ud with ~~ stop--to hold the dra\\<..'r 'ide. It slides a~ainst the fence and lets mt: nl! ewry tail quickly and with a consistent slope. Then I cut the pins with a handheld rout t:r and a strai~ht hit, workin~ frt:t:hand right up to the scribe lines. Only the corners of the pin sockets art· ldt to clean up with a chisel, and fitting the joint takes only a bit of paring. Even if you're not as worried ahout time as I am. you'll enjoy perfect joims with very little fuss. Cut tails with a bandsaw, so that it cuts right up to, hut not a backsaw not past. the shoukkr line. First. use a markin~ gauge to There are three reasons for scribe shoulders on all four tht· rabbet. First, a clc..>:m shoul sides. l use a "cutting gauge" der on the insid<· contributes with a sharp knife because a tu tht: O\·erall attractiveness cut ~hou\der line is one of the of the joint. Second. the rab tdltale signs of hand-cut do\·e bet's shoulder helps to ali~n tails. It also is mort• preci:->e tlw ~ide to the front when you than a pencil line anu serves transf~:r the tails. Finally, the as a ~uide for your chbcl when -;houiJcr also can be used as you're parin~ down to the line. ~.-hisd guide when you're par TIH:n cut a shallow rabbet. in~ away the last hit of waste about 1/16 in. deep, anoss the IX't\veen the tails. inside faces of the sides, under Next. lay out the spacing for the tails. I US<..' :1 dado ~t in th<..· tails-you only net•d tu do Now l•y out tile tails. Do It on one drawer side only. You'll use that piece my t:~hlesaw. sdting the fence lhis on one of the sides. The to line up the cuts for all of the others. MAY/JUNE 2011 37 BANDSAW THE TAILS IN MINUTES You could cut the tails freehand at the bandsaw, but you'd have to lay out every workpiece and then risk straying from the line. Hammer uses a tapered jig that rides against the rip fence to ensure perfect cuts on stacks of drawer sides. tail cuts are made u:sing a jig I usl' a 1:6 slope for my tails, that's guided by a fe nce. Use which gi\'es them a trad it ional the marked hoard to set tlw look. Lay out the taper on a fence, and all thc otht•r un hoard at least 2 in. or 3 in. marked boards can be cut us longer than tht.• drawer sides ing the same settings. and then cut it at the handsaw. The jig that holds and guides Clean it up on the jointer or the drawer s ides is nothing with a handpbne. thc.:n glue more than a piece of wood on a stop at the narro\\" end of that is straight o n one side the hoard. and tapered on thl' other side Before using the jig, adjust to match the slope of the taib. the ham b a w·s fe nce to <:om Make sun: it is sturdy e nough pensate for the blade's drift. to be used over and over again. Place the jig against the fence Taper the jig to match the tails. It should be several inches longer than the drawer sides. JIG IS JUST Dovetail jig A WEDGE AND A STOP ~ Joint and plane a board that's Taper several inches matches longer than the 1:6 slope drawer sides. Cut of tails. Joint the taper lor a clean edge. It's fast and accurate. You also could a taper on one \ use a handplane. side that matches the slope of your dovetails, and add a small stop at the narrow end. The jig's straight edge rides against the bandsaw·s rip fence. _j Drawer side / Fence ~LI I Stop block made I I Glue on a stop. Put it at the narrow end. which leads into the blade, so from cutoff I I I I that the jig can handle drawer sides of any length. I I .)8 f I I\ E \\" 0 0 D W 0 R K I :-< (', First position. Set the fence and cut down to the shoulder (left). Flip the board for a second cut (rltht). And make the same cuts on your other draw· er sides before moving the rip fence for the next cut and put the marked drawer l'Ut . Put the m.trkl·d drawer ~idl..' in plan.• . making sun.' :-.ilk.· in the ji~ so th:u you can that it is a~ :unst the stop. &.·t :O.l'l' your layout lines, adjust tlw fence so that the hando;aw thc f<.·nce , and make thl' first blade line..'' up w1th th(:' first t:ul cut on the m•xt t:ul in. flip the l'Ut from the..' l'c..l~l' of the dr.I\\ hoard .10d makl' till' next cut. l..'r :-.ide . You ·n n1.1h· two cut:-. Continue to ad1u't the f<.·nce with tht:' fcn<.·e m this position. and make cut:-.. At first. you're Move th• fence. Cut one side of onl' on eadl sidl· ',f the dr.t\\'l'r nailing one :-.idl.' of till' tails, hut the center tail and then flip the side. Make till' first cut, push wiu:n you p:1ss till' middll.' you board for the second cut. in~ the ji~ and side together. ilC~in to cut thl· othl.'r side of 'lllt:'n flip owr the llr:1wer side thl.' tails. and make the lir:-.t l·ut an from Aftcr all of thl' t.lil' ,tfl' cut. it:. other cdM<.'. :o-;ow mak.(:' the rcrnove the wa ... tl.' h<.·twt:"cn ' '~IIlli.' two n1t.' on the dr.Jwer·s th<."m with a copin~ ~•w . k"a\' '' oth(:'r sidt:". ing ahout 1/ 16 10 of waste If you arl' doing multiplc :1ho\'e tht:' shoul<.k·r linl'. Use drawers. makl· thl· taill·uts on :• l'his..-1 to pare it :tway. Pan.· l.. l ,el)' drawl..'r sadc before ad ftr't from th<.• outstdc. start Fl,..l cuts. M011e the rip fence one lll'ting the fl·ncl..' for the next in~ in the scnl)t:'d shoulder more time for the last tall cuts. Clean out fit• wqsfe wltlt a copl nt saw. There really is no faster way to get the job done (left). leave just about ~. ln. for paring. Pare from both sides. startlnt on the outside face. On the inside face. you can use the rabbet's shoulder to guide the chisel (above). www.finewoodworking.com M A\' I J tJ ~ t: l 0 I I POWER THROUGH THE PINS WITH A ROUTER If there's one thing machines do better than hand tools. it's the grunt MAKE A PLATFORM FOR ROUTING work, like removing the waste between pins. Not only does a router do There Is no way you could balance a router on the end gram of a It with ease and efficiency, but It also Is very accurate. board and rout accurately. Make this three-sided jig an line and chopping straight the front. Set tlw gaugt· dircl·tly down. Don't worry. there isn't from tht· thicknt•s::. of your tails. <.•nough wa~l<.' to force thl' chi~d into the ~houlder. Stop For pins, a router is mightier before you go all the way than the chisel through, and finish the job by After you're done l:lying out paring from thl· other side, u~ the pins, you art' ready to rout in~ot the shouldl'r of the rabbet away thl· wa.~te between tlwm. a~ a guidt•. w.in~ a 114-in.-dia . .'>traight hit. With tiH.' w~tstc removed, Make Mtrc the bit is sharp: it tran~fer the taib to the drawer will be <.·asier to control. To im front. I u~ a markin~ knife he prove the routt·r's stability as I CIU"'e it's more accuratl' than a rout tlw pins, I damp a simple pencil, hut I darken the lint..·~ jig to th t..• dr.l\wr front and then with a pencil to make thl'lll d~unp the jig into my ~houldt•r (•asier to S<-'t!. Next, usc: a mark \'ise. Set the bit depth ;oi(J that it ing gaugl.' to mark the dl.'pth of reaches the shoulder line you Router Jlt Is easy to set up. Use your benchtop to bring the top of the the pins 'm the inside face of markt'tl with tht> gau~l.' earlier. jig level with the drawer front. Then clamp It In place. 40 FINE 11' 000\I'ORKING Set the plunp Rout freehand. The jig offers depth. After zero enough surface area to keep the Ing out the bit, router stable. Shine some light place a tall be Into the work area to Improve tween the stop and visibility (left). After a bit of prac· the turret on the tlce, Hammer discovered that he base for an accu· could rout right up to the layout rate setting. lines without any trouble (above). It helps that long grain is easy to rout. Tips for clean paring. Pare down the back first. Its easter to get a straight cut with the workpiece and chisel vertical than with the workpiece horizon tal on the bench. On the pin walls. work across the grain (right). Use a chisel wide enough to pare the entire wall in one pass. Check the fit. Rout the fir:-t S Stephen Hammer designs and makes furniture in New Britain. Conn. www. fi newoodwork i ng.com \I A Y / J U N E 2 0 I 1 41 f there is one handplane that every woodworker should have. It's the most important it is the smoothing plane. It is, in essence. a finishing tool. I stepping in where machines and rougher hand tools leave off. hand tool in the shop, Properly tuned and sharpened, a smoothing plane can leave a pristine finish on almost any board. Yet it is still compact enough and there are more to be idt:al for general planing jobs like fitting and trinumng parts. Because the smoothing plane is so essential, it's important that great choices than ever you purchase the hest one you can afford. To help you make this critical choice, I pur 1-t smoothing planes ranging in price from $33 to $350 through their paces, testing both of the com BY CHRIS GOCHNOUR mon styles: bevel-down and bevel-up. First, I judged the overall condition out of the box. Then I sharpened the hlade and put the plane to work. If needed. I diagnosed and tried to.. correct any 42 F I N E \\" 0 0 D W 0 R K I 1'\ G you can't go wrong with any of these five planes. And there's one for every budget. LIE-NIELSEN NO.4 $350 The Clifton No. 4 is a finely detailed, superb performer. It handled The Lie-Nielsen No. 4 is a well-crafted tool and a fabulous performer. every test with ease and elegance. leaving perfect surfaces in its For this review, I chose the cast bronze vers1on over the ductile wake. It's a hefty tool, but it's perfectly balanced. The thick blade iron because the bronze looks great. won't rust, and adds nice heft holds an edge well and has a stout, two-part chipbreaker that keeps to the plane. That heft, perfectly balanced. helps the plane power the blade flat and in full contact with the frog. Blade adjustments are through any cut. It feels smooth and steady in action, with blade easy and convenient. The only downside is that the back of the blade adjustments that are easy and precise. The back of the blade needed lappmg before putting it to use, a minor inconvenience. arnved perfectly flat. VERITAS NO. 4 $200 The Veritas No. 4 is a finely crafted tool. The Among the bevel-up smoothers, the Veritas The WoodRiver No. 4, V3. felt and performed machining is accurate, clean, and smooth, was best. I reground the factory-shipped like a first-rate tool with excellent results. and the blade was lapped perfectly flat, but blade from 25° to 33° to achieve a 45° The machining is clean and accurate. and I was disappointed w1th the thin, old-style cutting angle, essentially converting it to a in use, the plane d1dn't disappoint. Frog chipbreaker (see p. 45). To make mouth smoother. Like all bevel-up smoothers, the adjustments are made Without removing the adjustments. the frog is moved forward or blade reQuires more camber to eliminate blade-a plus-but they are finicky because backward, With no need to remove the blade. tracks, and getting it right takes finessing. the frog does not travel in a machined slot Blade adjustments, made with a Norris-style If you add an extra low-angle blade, you can to keep it aligned laterally. It was the one mechanism, are easy but less convenient have both a smoother and a low-angle plane detail where the plane came up short. Once and precise than the separate lever and for working end grain. The plane also works the frog is set. however, blade adjustments knob on the Clifton and lie-Nielsen above. well on its side, with a shooting board. are smooth and effective. MAY / JL'l" E 2011 • MOUTH ADJUSTMENTS SHOULD BE EASY How big a shaving you can take depends partly on the mouth opening. On most smoothers in the review, the opening is set by moving the frog. Others set the opening with an adjustable shoe at the front of the plane. Adjustments are quicker and easier if you can make them with the blade in the plane. I THESE TWO TYPES MAKE IT SIMPLE For fine cuts. open the mouth ¥s• in. to ¥n in. Remove the blade. With some planes, like the On the fly. You can "t beat a plane design that allows you to make mouth adjustments with the blade Kunz Plus No. 4. you have to remove the blade installed. On some bevel-down planes. like the Lie-Nielsen (left). the frog-attachment and adjustment assembly to access the frog-attachment screws screws are in the back, so you don't have to remove the blade to access them. Bevel-up planes. and on top, then move the frog with a screw in back. the bevel-down Stanley Sweetheart. feature an adjustable toe (right), another convenient method. problems with the tool. Not all of the comers) to eliminate blade tracks (bevel passes diagonally across the surface. planes needed help. ups needed more camber). Bevel up or made the second series with the grain to down, I honed each blade to an effective dean up the diagonal plane marks. I made 0 First a sharpening cutting angle of 4'i • The ECE Primus was the final series of passes with the grain A plane mu~t have a razor-sharp blade to the only exception among the lk'vel-down and with the blade set for a lighter cut. work \veil, and it's a bit much to ask manu pbnes. as its blade b bedded at 'i0°. After that. I judged how the final surface fanurers to ship them that way. So before looked anJ felt. use. I honc.:d each hlaJe. I started with Then a torture test Next, I used each phme on the face grain 150-grit sandpaper on a granite block ;Jnd I used three board-; for my tough te~t: pine. of son11.' figun.:d bubinga to see hO\v it re progressed using.Japanes~: waterslnne:-., be cherry, and white oak, each 1112 in. thiLk sponded to a t'h:JIIenging, dense, anJ fig ginning with 1.000 grit. then 4.000 grit. and by 20 in. wide by 30 in. long. I planed the ured hardwood. ending with H,OOO grit. And I gaYe each one face of each panel: pine first. then cherry, The final test was to plane the end gmin my usual subtle cambe r (slightly relieved then white oak. I maJe the first ~eries of of the first three panels. l took fiw passes Bevel-up or bevel-down? Up, like a block Down Is tra· plane. Bevel-up dlflonal. All planes, like the bevel-down Veritas low-angle planes have a smooth plane. are chipbreaker simple and versa atop the blade, tile. However. the which curls blade must have a chips forward more pronounced and works to camber to prevent prevent tearout. track marks, so sharpening takes some practice. 44 F 1 :11 E \\' 0 0 D W 0 R K J N G • TWO WAYS TO ADJUST THE BLADE Once you have the mouth opening set, you'll want to adjust the blade for a gossamer-thin shaving that spans the full width. These depth and lateral adjustments should be simple and precise. Some planes have one mechanism for each adjustment, while others use one for both. 2. ALL-I N-ONE ADJUSTER J'wist. On most planes in the review. you set Swint. Once the depth is set. swing a lever be JW/st and swing. A Norris-style adjuster han depth of cut by turning a knob located behmd hind the blade to make lateral adjustments. dles both types of adjustment. Gochnour fmds the blade. this style less convenrent because it's easy to ruin one setting while adjusting the other. on the pine, five passes on the: cherry, and Chipbreaker.s: Thicker is better then 2) passt•s on the whitt• oak, in an d fon to dull tht• blade. I tlwn took a final. Bevel-up planes don't have chlpbreak telling pas' on the edge of a white oak ers. but all of the bevel-down planes OLD STYLE panel to '-C:t' how well the plane: wa' ... rill do. The chlpbreaker's job Is to deftect cutting. llH.' perfonnance of each plane b shavings up and out of the plane and noted in the chan on pp. 46-47. support the blade close to the cutting edge, which helps reduce tearout and The envelope, please ... dampen vibration. To do these jobs well. After weeks of testing, I was impressed with the overall performann.· of thc:o;e the front of the chlpbreaker must meet the back of the blade seamlessly. planes. I'm happ~· to repon that therl' b no shortage ot high-quality sm(X>thing planes Many of these planes use an old-style NEW STYLE out there for any budget. chlpbreaker made from thin pressed Among thi:-. impressive gwup. however, steel, which typically requires a good two planes rose above the rest: Thl' Clif amount of tuning. In the last decade. ton No. www. fi newoodwork i ng .com ;\I A Y J l ' !'\ F 2 0 1 I well machined. In use, you want the plane to be easy to set up and adjust, to leave a pristine surface, and to 0.117-in.-thick $60 4 lb. 2 oz. have a blade that will stand up to rigorous use. high-carbon steel Clifton 0.130-in.-thick hand· No.4 $300 4 lb. 7 oz. forged high-carbon steel 0.110-in.·thick $200 2 lb. 7 oz. chrome/Vanadium 0.080-in.·thick $55 4 lb. high-carbon steel 0.075-in.-thick $33 3 lb. 4 oz. l high-carbon steel 0.135-in.·thick $200 3 lb. 15 oz. high-carbon steel $350 4 lb. 13 oz. 0.125-in.-thick A2/Cryo lie-Nielsen No. 164 Low-angle Smoothing Plane 0.180-in.-thick A2/Cryo Stanley Bailey 0.082-in.-thick No.4 $75 3 lb. 14 oz. high-carbon steel $180 4 lb . 14 oz. 0.125-in.·thick A2 $220 4 lb. 14 oz. 0.185-in.·thick A2 $195 4 lb. 9 oz. 0.120-in.-thick A2 $200 4 lb. 11 oz. I 0.125-in.·thick A2 ~Online Extra To learn more about the details that $120 5 lb. 0.125-in.-thick A2 make a great plane, watch the video at FlneWoodworklng.com/eKtraa. 46 FINE WOODWORKING Depth: Very good Of all the planes under $100. the Anant performed best; Old style, Good Lateral: Very good Good Good ch1pbreaker needed tuning for a better fit 0.115 in. thick Mouth: Fair w1th the blade. Depth: Excellent Two-piece, Almost ready to go out of the box (blade needed lappmg); Very good Lateral: Excellent Excellent Excellent 0.125 in. thick unique, two-piece ch1pbreaker was author's favorite. Mouth: Very good Ghdes easily on •ts slick l1gnum vitae sole but light we1ght Depth: Excellent New style, d•dn't prov1de much mertia: most precise vert1cal adjuster of Very good Lateral: Fair Very good Very good 0.120 in. thick any plane in the test-absolutely no backlash: left- and right Mouth: Good hand models available. Depth: Very good Too much blade deflection and chatter on white oak and Old style, NA* Lateral: Very good Poor Poor bubinga panels and on cherry and oak end grain; poor 0.075 in. th1ck Mouth: Fair machining and casting. Depth: Good Old style, Too much blade deflection and chatter on the bubinga and NA* Lateral: Very good Fa•r Fa1r 0.075 in. thick cherry and white oak end gram. Mouth: Fair Depth; Fair Blade adjuster was a weak spot: too much backlash in vertical New style, I Very good Lateral: Fair Good Good adjustments, and lateral adjustments had to be fine-tuned by 0.095 in. thick Mouth: Good tapping blade with a hammer. Depth: Excellent Exceptional quality; needed only to hone the blade to put the New style. Excellent Lateral: Excellent Excellent Excellent tool to work; L•e-N•elsen sells higher-angle replacement frogs 0.125 in. thick Mouth: Very good for this plane. Bevel-up design; vertical adjuster is integrated into lever Depth: Excellent cap, making blade replacement after sharpening more Excellent None Lateral: Fair Excellent Very good cumbersome; however, adjuster nut •s located in a conven1ent Mouth: Excellent spot: blade reQu~res more camber to ehmmate tracks. Depth: Very good Too much blade deflectiOn and chatter on bubmga panel and Old style, NA• Lateral: Very good Fa~r Fair cherry and wh1te oak end gra•n; sole needed 0.075 in. thick Mouth: Fair significant lapping. Depth: Good New style, Frog is cast mto plane body, a rock-sol•d design; adjustable Very good Lateral: Good Very good Very good 0.110 in. thick mouth makes for precise mouth adjustments. Mouth: Excellent Bevel-up des1gn; blade is w1der (2¥• in.) than others tested Depth: Very good and quick and easy to remove and replace; has conven1ent Excellent None Lateral: Good Excellent Excellent adjustable mouth; set screws on body help hold lateral Moutl1: Excellent adjustments; handled end grain tests the best; blade requires more camber to eliminate tracks. Bevel-up design; square s1des make plane suitable for use w1th a shooting board. versatility the other Ventas bevel-up Depth: Very good plane does not have; set screws on body help hold lateral Excellent None Lateral: Very good Excellent Excellent adjustments; blade requires more camber to eliminate tracks; Mouth: Excellent when removmg the blade. the adjustment mechanism sticks to it and lifts out. a minor nUisance. Depth: Very good Frog and tote are one piece, a strong design; mouth Old style, Excellent Lateral: Very good Excellent Excellent adjustments arc eas1ly made without removmg the blade; set 0.075 in. thick Mouth: Very good screws on body help hold lateral adjustments. Depth: Excellent Machinmg IS clean and accurate: depth and lateral New style, Excellent Lateral: Excellent Very good Very good adjustments were great, but mouth adJustments were 0.110 in. thick Mouth: Good a bit fussy. • Unable to complete test; see comments. ~ I:\ y J l' :-; E 2 0 1 I 47 • DOUBLE-FRONTED DRAWERS MAKE THIS PIECE UNIQUE With two drawer fronts, Top. ¥• in. th1ck 7 a center beam, plywood by 35 /e in. wide by 78:Y• ln. long bottoms, and custom pulls, these drawers are both distinctive and durable. Upper stretchers. :y. in. thick J by 5Va in. wide by 73Va ln. long ____..,/ End runner. :Y. in. thick by 2'1• in. wide ---- Double stub tenon A sleek, sturdy design for a versatile table Center beam, ¥• in. thick by Groove, 2¥• in. wide, 'I• ln. wide by with stub tenons v. ln. deep. to fit groove 'fa in. from bottom edge Drawer front, V. in. thick by 3'11 in. wide by 23¥a in. long Drawer bottom. lh-in.-th•ck plywood, rabbeted to fit groove Drawer side, ~,<; in. thick by 3'Ya 10. wide To purchase d1gital plans and .,- a complete cutlist for th1s table and other projects. go to FineWoodworking.com/PianStore. Photos: M att Kenney. dnw ing>: !>!.,phrn Hommt:r TAPERED EDGES DETAIL Vert1cal <11vi<1ers. Va in. thick by 5¥• ln. w1de by 4¥. in. tall Apron spacer, 1 in. thick by 1 v. in. w1de by 29 in. long LOWER STRETCHER DETAIL Apron. v. in. thiCk __ .,. by 4¥. in. w1<1e by 321n. long 1-m.-wlde walnut e L 23¥· •• JL 23~·· JL23b J 29:V.1 in. 1~~1¥laln. I ~ l't. \'IJ ll N f. l 0 I I 'l9 • MAKE SHORT WORK OF stretchers are mortised through their faces for the verti~.·al divider-; that separate the drawc:rs. Take extra care that all these mortises MULTI-TENON JOINTS ------line up top to bottom, because their alignment is critical or the The bulk of vc:rtical dividers willlx· crookt'u. To Jo this, I clamp all four pieces the joinery Is ~ Upper stretcher together and, using my square as a guidt', scor1.· a line across the mortise-and-tenon inside edge of the stretchers. Then I transfer those lines a<.:ross joints. The most the faces of the stretchers to lay out the exact mortise locations. challenging ones Vert1cal drawer Keep in mimi that the legs are designc:d with a \'cry simple are the multiple divider double-sided tapc:r that begins at thl' bas(: of the apron. I cut the.: tenons on each joinery before tapering the leg, so I can work on it while it is vertical drawer still flat and square. I cut the mortises for the: lower stretcher and divider. Here's how ~ to tackle them the haunched monises for th1.• side aprons. Thl..' upper stretchers successfully. connect to the lc:gs with lap dovetails. The.: socket for the dovetail is cut later. Now that the mortises are cut, it's time to mon: on to the tenon~ VERTICAL DRAWER on the aprons, the: drawer mnner~ and kickers, the lower stretch DIVIDER TENON LAYOUT ers. and the vcnical dividers. The ski~: aprons ha,·e haunchcd tc:n on~. These tenons an: cut with several passes on the t.ahlesaw with a 112-in. dado set. I lay the Lower stretcher hoards tlat on the table and crosscut them, usin~ the fence to set the: tenon length. The: tenons on the mnncrs and kickers an~ cut ~.,. using the same: method. To keep from interfering with the venical ( 7o1n. drawer divider joinery, the center nmnl...'rs and kickers have two v. in. tenons. I removl' the waste herv.:een the tenons on the tablt::~aw with the same sled and method I liSt' for the \'l..'rtical dividers, hdow. This bn't necessary on tlw end nmncr'> and kickers. The tenons on the: lower stretchers aren't :.IS straightforward. The)' arc joined with a doubk.· stub tenon into dw leg and a single tenon into the lo""·er apron spacc:r. I cut the stub tenons on the handsaw and use the router table and a straight bit to create the tt•non that lands in the spa{·er. I measure for the mortise in the lower apron spacer and cut it. Later, when the legs are gluc:d to the apron. I dry-fit the lower stretcher system to the legs and apron, setting the apron spacer in place. It automatically regiswrs itsdf. which allows me to mark its location and glue it in place. Upper stretchers get dovetails While the lower stretchers ha\'e mortises and tenons. the upper strc:tchers are connectc:d to the leg and apron spacer with dove rails. This makt•s assembly much easier. I usc a simple jig to eswh Mortise~ first. Mark the upper and lower stretchers for the location of the vertical drawer dividers, and then cut these through·mortises with a lish the sides of the tails on the bandsaw. and then I cope out the hollow-chisel mortiser, using a backer board to prevent blowout. Graze the tenon cheeks. Before cutting the ten· Mortises locate tenons. Use the A simple sled. Hammer uses a very basic sled to ons, skim ltl• ln. of material from the tenon cheeks mortises on the stretchers to locate hold the vertical dividers as he removes the waste with a dado set. rhis gives a clean edge where the and mark the tenons on the vertical between tenons. He works carefully to his layout tenons end. dividers. lines without using a stop. test-fitting as he goes. 50 F I N H W 0 0 D ~· 0 R K II' G • WAIT TO DO THE UPPER STRETCHERS Unlike the lower stretchers. the upper stretchers get dovetailed Into the legs and apron spacers. The quirk In the process is this: Because the dovetail sockets go partially Into the apron spacers, they can't be laid out and cut until after the legs are glued to the aprons. Dowet•ll ttt. atretclter •rtd l•y out tlte aoclceb. Ssw and chop the dovetails and clean to the line with a chisel (above). Dry· f1t the apron spacers into the apron/ leg assembly and mark the dovetail locations In the leg and spacer (right). Remove tlte spec .,. to notclt tltem. Using the tablesaw Dry-fit the spacer to marl< sled again. this time for dovetails. with an angled fence, Hammer makes the cuts to form the sides of the dovetail sockets. Then he runs the spacers through the same dado setup but on a 90 • sled to remcwe any waste In UPPER STRETCHER DOVETAIL LAYOUT the center. ~ I 1 10. waste and dean up with a chisel. These stru<·tural dovct:1ils are nc\'Cf seen. so ap pearanct: is not critical (see ~ H:IIf- Hhnd Dovetails in llalf the Time.- pp. 36-41 ). With all the leg joinery complctc.'<..l. I now fc.>el c.·omfonahle cut ting the taper.. m the legs. W1th only four lc~s to do, I mark the Hammttr clamps taper on the legs. t·ut it freehand on the handsaw, :md then dean the leg-and-apron assembly Into his it up on the jointe r, making sure to rt•gister one side against the end vise with the fence to keep the taper square . Later, after the lt:gs arc glued to top of the leg nush the aprons, I'll mark and cut tiK· dovetail socket in the top of the with the top of the leg post, usins.c a plunge router freehand. Then I dean it up with bench (above). chisels. With the router base sitting on the How to simplify a complex g1ue-up bench, he routs close to the layout Bt·causc there.· arc so many parts in the drawer system, thb glue 1/ne, then cleans up is mon.. · complicated than the avc~tge table ~lue-up . But you to the line with a c~n break it into manageahlt• sta~cs . the leg/apron as.o;cmhly, and chisel (rigttt). then the •otrctcher assemhly. &fore glue-up, do a final san<.ling :tnd finhhinH of the table part">. I usc a finely set smoothmg plane to remm'l' null marks. fo llowed hy a r.mdom·orhit sander up to P320-wit sandpaper. Then I apply Tried & True Original VC'ood Finish to all the parts. I can always sand mort: after assemhly. www.fint:woodwor k i n g .com MAY/JI ' Nt: 2011 Sl • MANAGE THE GLUE-UP IN STAGES This is a little trickier than your average table glue up, so it's best to take it In steps. The legs are already glued to the aprons, so you'll need to glue in the apron spacers, make two frames of the stretchers, runners and kickers. and then piece it all together. Glue In the spacers. Clamp the apron spac Create two frames. The two lower stretchers are connected by the ers Into the leg-t~pron assembly. drawer runners. The two upper stretchers are connected by the kickers. but this step ~aves time, gives a nicer finish, and hdps a lot with Put it all together-Next. glue the vertical drawer dividers glue cleanup. into the lower stretcher frame. You have to mah· sure they stay Attach the aprons to the legs--<."";luing the apron to the front straight as they are drying, so you can u ...,e a slow-dry glul.' such and back lc:gs is straightforward. and the mortises dictate the as Titebond Extend and work on gluing th~: upper strctch~r as alignment of the parts. The side aprons have upper and lower sembly right away, or you can take the pressure off the glue-up spacers glued to them that allow the drawers to dear the legs. and simply dry-fit the top in place until the divitk-rs an: dry. which are thicker than the aprons. However, I do not attach and The final step~ haprx:n all at once. Glue the lower stretcher a~ cut the joinery in these spacers until the legs an: glued to the scmbly into the leg/apron ass~mblies. and drop the top stretcher aprons. It is easier to cut the joinery when they arc: separated from assembly into place over the dovetail socket:-> and drawer divider the apron, hut I need the leg/apron as:-oembly together to mark tenons. It is critical that you check all th~: part~ for square. Mea the c.:x;H.:t location of the joinery on the spacer:->. \X'ith the joinery suring th~o• diagonals \\'orks well for this. I kre you also ctn just done. the spacers can be glued in place. dry-fit the top in place while the bottom stretcher dries, and then Two set.~ of stretcher frames, upper and lower-Thi, is where add the top. things get a littk· complicated • MAKE HANDSOME HANDLES 'lain. FRONT J SIDE t 'Vu in. C/L v. in. 711a in. 'I• in. · 52 Drop the v•rtl• cal dividers In place and top It off. With the vertical dividers glued into the lower stretchers, you can dry-fit the top stretcher as sembly until the vertical dividers are set. and then glue the top as sembly in place. Or use glue with a longer open time Add the lower frame to th• l•t•· One long clamp and do It all at each side enough pull It all together. on is to once. Dovet:~ib in Halt the Time:." pp. .36--lD. I u~e quartc:r!'.awn \>,"hitc: by !'.ide U!'-oing bisc.:uib for alignment. After nnting the top to tin.tl oak for the dr:~wer ~ides. lb lurdnl.'!'.!'. lets the drawl.'r !'.(ide: easily size. I !'.haped thl.' c:dH'-' with a 12° bcn:l that matches the bevel and with littk· Wl':tr. It abo l·ontr.t!'.b with the walnut to !'.how off on the !'.trc:tchers. \'((oodt"n buttons senlrl· the top to the framl.'. the dovetail~. Cu~tom walnut handk·s are th~.· finishin~ touch. By 'li> finhh the top. I usl' a finely set smoothin~ plane to takl' out the way. I didn't u~e a catch to rc:Hister these drawc.:rs. hut if you all the milling marks. and thc:n sand it up to P.320 grit. I thl.'n ap are intere!'-oted in bullet catches. !'-oee p. S6. ply "'-'\c:ral coats of Tried & True Original Wood Finish wiped on and mhhc:d off by hand. E\·en though all part!'-o \\ere pre-finished. Top it off I ~o m·er the entire: piece a~ain with a fitl.ll few l.·oats. 0 \\'ith tlw ha!'-oe complete, you can make the top. I madc: mine from a seril.·~ of h< •ard!'-o picked for ~rain appl.'arance and ~luc:d up side Stephen Hammer designs and makes custom furniture in New Britam. Conn. Rip tricks. The first two rip cuts form tile tenon (leh). Leaving the angled cheek cut for last lets the handle stock fall away from the blade (right). A few cross cuts. Multiple crosscut passes waste away ma terial to create the tenons. Then raise and angle the blade to cut the han Final shape. Using the tenons to secure the handles In a dles to length. vise. do the shaping with a block plane. www.fincwoodworking.com ~~ A ) /J t· !\" E 2 0 1 1 Double-ball catch: Adjustable power where it's needed BY STEVE LATTA mong all the contemporary Latches r ve seen. I like the double-ball variety for its versatil Tens•on-spnng ity. appe-.uance. and ca* of in~allation. And. like the bullet catch. you can even in!'tall adJustment A them when the cabinet back is already in place. In general, it's good to pbce the catch dose to w he re the door pull is located, but becau:,e these catches have the ability to pull a doo r into a frame or against a sto p, you can place them selectively to alleviate a slight rwist in the door caused by a p Measure the door. To ensure that the door Mark thfl case. Use the setting on your square Mount the c:ateh. After securing the top of will close flush to the cabinet. use a combina to transfer the Inset depth for the catch and the catch with a screw, use the square to align tion square to measure from the front of the mark the top hole's location for drilling. Paint the bottom and then mark the second hole for door to the edge of the catch's mounting plate. er's tape helps make the mark more visible. drilling. A STICKY TRICK Apply doubl-tlc:k t.wpe. Latta has a simple Put the matlnlf plec:es t._ther. Set the tear Close the door firmly, then open it. The tool for finding the exact location of the mating drop into the catch and then loosen the tension double-stick tape will adhere to the door, plac· teardrop: double-stick tape. spring so the teardrop will release easily. lng the teardrop In the perfect location for mounting. :'>fAY / J U NF. 2011 ss Bullet catch: Discrete and supportive BY GARRETT HACK like a catch thai holdc; a door shut and is quiet, gentle. and not obvious. A little bullet catch Keeper I do<.::- all of that, plus. when located at the houom of the door, keeps it from sagging. These catches hold best if the gap around the door is small, roughly lft6 in. A bullet catch has rwo parts: The "bullet" is a compact brass cylinder with a spring-loaded ball hearing at one end. On nicer catches, like those from Brusso or Horton Brasses. the mat ing "keeper· piece is a shorter cylinder with a slightly conn:x end that's inuented across the center to capture the ball bearing. A good place for the catch is centered both on the door's thickness anu on the width of the outl.:'r stile. It's possible to mount the bullet on the undersidl· of the door. hul most of the time I put it in the bottom rail of the case, with the keeper in the u Bullet Spring·loaded Garrett Hack is a contributing editor. ball bearing Drill the hole. Close the door Mark the hole loca to mar:k the loca· tion with an awl to Uon. A strip of help seat the brad masking tape on point bit and locate the strike area will a prfHJrllled guide make the pencil block. The block lead visible. helps keep the bit vertical and pre vents tearout. Mark the hole depth on the bit with a piece of painter's tape. Set the bullet In place. First. double Layout trick Is Install the catch. on the ball. Cover The indentation the ball with pencil should run side to lead to help mark side. to trap the Its location on the ball in the center bottom of the door. of the catch. The rim should be flush with the bottom of the door. If you \re drilled too deep, pry or tap the keeper loose and shim It with tape. 56 F I N E W 0 0 D W 0 R K I N (; Rare-earth magnet: Blend it into the woodwork B Y MICHAEL F ORTUNE o neat<..' a simple hut dlccti\'C <..--atch. I lih• to mount a rare-ca11h ma~otnct in a pit:n.' of T wood shaped to rcfle<.·t the o\·cr.dl line:- of th<.· c.:ahinet or a uc.."t:til sud1 as the hanulc..'~. ll1e bkx:k is rypically from 'I in. to 8 in. long, and I an;.Kh it with •6 round-head suc.:w~ Stnker plate and s li~htl y oversize holes, so thc.." re is a degree of adjustability. Two deep cou nterhon:~ hide the.: Sl"fL'W heads. Major woodwo rking suppliers like Rockk·r, Woo<..lcraft, and Wood worker's Supply sdl the m:tgrwb and hardwar<..': a metal cup that securely nadles th<.' magrll't so it doesn't pull out, and a -;trik<..·r plate that sa<.-v.·s into th<.' door. I often US<.' uarker contrasting woods in my fumitun:, so rll use a block of wood in the -.a me species o r ewn elxmizc it. Wh<.'n I do this, I also color all of the magnt't hardware hhl<..'k with Brass Black metal tlnish, available at Amazon Wood block xom and sporting-good"> ston.·s. ~and the surfac<.· lightly first to pr<.'pare it for the culorin~ot treatment. Metal cup w1th magnet Michael Fortune is a contributing editor. Drill the holes before shaplnt the block. Shape the block. Use double-stick tape to at· under a shelf or the top (the cabinet is flipped Use a Forstner bit to drill a recess for the mag tach an extension block that lets you cut and here), slightly behind the edge to accommo net and Its mounting cup. sand the block safely. date the striker plate. The magnet sits In a cup. The metal cup is No glue needed. The magnet seats itself in Attach the striker. Reference marks trans sold with the magnet and is held In place with the cup. and It stays put. ferred from the case help locate the striker a flathead screw. plate, which consists of a steel screw and a small washer. MA'/Jlll' f. 2011 S7 ' T011ch latch: Replaces door handles BY MICHAEL FORTUNE Spring-loaded magnetiC catch \cn a cabinet's design would ~ compromised by W -.urtan.•-mounted handles. !use a commercial touch latch. The latch uses a spring-mounted magnetic catdl that relea:;cs when the door is pushed inward slightly. so no door handles are required. These latches-available as single or double units at Woodcraft. Riche lieu Hardware, and other cabinetry suppliers-are made of plastic and, while they work well, they're a linle too ugly to leave in plain sight. I tlx this by fashion ing an elegant cover for the latch, made from solid stock that harmonizes with the cabinet. This cover rail typically matches the length of the rail or shl'lf to which its :.tttached. lnst:.tlting it is a matter of mounting the latch and accurately locating the openings in the custom cover. Striker plate Michael Fortune is a contributing editor. Cutaway the Let the plung.rs front and rear through. Fortune faces. After mill uses a Forstner bit ing the solid-wood to drill clearance block that will holes through the house the latch, front face for the Fortune rips a thin two latch plungers. strip-a little less Insert a wooden than 116/n. thick block into the cav from each edge. ity to prevent blow out during drilling and when squaring up the holes with a Create a home chisel. f~r the latch. Use repeated tablesaw cuts to excavate a cavity to house the latch mechanism. Attach the latch. Mount the latch on the underside of a cabinet rail or shelf. Set the catch back from the rail's edge to make room for the striker plate. Install the cover rail. The clearance holes should fit over the latch plungers, with the plunger faces slightly proud. Countersunk screws hold the cover rail in place. A striker plate is mounted on each door using reference marks transferred from the case. Phul<-". thi• paj!e, h<~tom ri11ht; p. ~7. houom =------THE PROGRESS SO FAR Complete the top half of the chair, add the rockers, sit back, and relax BY PETER GALBERT ou are halfway throu~h the construction of this lw.autaful rocking chair. which comhinl"s \\'imbor Y <.: h.tir join~ry with contempor.uy d~sign. Afll."r all thl" hard work shapin~ and steam bcmdin~ the parts, d ri lling and sculptin~ the seat. and compl~ting the k·~ joinery. th1.• squat. four-legged Moot you ha\·e at thi~ point in tlw project rna~· not 'L'I.'lll wonh the effort. But mo~t of the hard work is behind you. :1nd \Vhat lies ahead i~ the fun pan. Join the arms to the seat and back posts The t\vo franw:-; formed hy till.' s~.·at, arms. arm posts. and hack posts form a vl.'ry strong ~.·onnection hcrween the chair's ~eat and back. Finish shaping the lower half of the back post~ with :1 spokeshan:. hut l~a\l· the top portion until after you ha\'e chopped the mortist_• ., for till' nest r:Iil. I\ lark th<.:· location of the arm\ mortise on e:1ch hack posl. Select dry sto<.:k with matching grain for the arm,. Transfer th~ patt<.:'rn to the top and in,id<.:· of each rectan~•u)Jr .mn ' blank. Extend till' <.:·enter line down both ends of thco ann and scribe a hori :wntallinl' 'YH in. from the top fan• all the way around the: blank to a~.·;ttc center.. li.>r turning. TI1is is otT~t turn- ing. so make: ... urc th:n the piel..'l..' doc~n 't .... trike the tool fl.'~ I. Tum the tenon until thl" line on the in~kll' of the curn· ne3rly vanbh~s. Dry-fit the a rm and back post-Cut a test blod; rou~hly matdl ing the length and thicknes., of tlw arm and drill a 112-in.-di:J. hole .\1 A Y I J U :>; f l 0 1 I ~9 at 62° for the arm post. Ream the test block until the undL·rside of the hlo<.:k is aligned with the baseline of thl· arm tenon on the arm post. 'I11e reamer used for the ~at rnoni.o;es may not tlt this smaller hole. hut a plumber's 6° reamer used to de-burr pipes (available at hardware stores) works fine. Now see if the other end of the: te.,t block centers on the loGttion of the monisc: in the hack post. If you're dose. you can tweak the angle \vhen you drill the ann. If not, make another test bl Check the angle. The mortise In the arm needs to be angled so that the arm tenon is at the correct height on the back post. Start with a test block drilled at 62 •. Adjust the angle from there. Drill the arm-post mortise. In the same way that you drilled the leg mortises In Part 1. drill into the arm for the arm post with the bevel gauge set to the test-block angle. Ream to fit. Bandsaw down to the layout line on the underside of the arm so you can see when the ann post is home. That way, when you ream the mortise, you can be sure that the arm will enter the post at the right spot. 60 FINE WOODWORKING Photm ~tu·k S.:hofidd. c.lrJwinj(>· lloh w l'nintt· THE TWO-STEP MORT ISE A two step mortise Is much stronger than a single diameter joint. if the whole joint were V. in. dla., this would weaken the back post. If the whole joint were ~ ln. dla.. the arm post would be weak where It enters the post. the most likely pomt of fa1lure. Wedge uy out tile bac:l<-post mortise. Place the same board used to lay out the leg stretchers onto the arm and trace a line on a piece of tape on the ¥e-in.-dla . tenon extends back post. through the back post. Drill tile mortise. Angle the post until the line you just drew Is ~rallel to the benehtop. Using the angled board and a mirror. drill a stepped mortise through the post with two brad-point bits. At arm's lenttll. With the stepped mortise drilled, measure from the bottom of the wide part of the mort1se to the midpoint of the arm post ~tep tenon. Mark the location where the tenon steps down and then turn It on the lathe. A shopmade gauge aids accu racy. Sllave your arm•. Mark the centerline of the arm. W1th the joinery complete. sculpt the arms using a drawknife. spokeshave, files. Fou,.....,ay tlue up. The back post. arm post, and arm need to be glued and sandpaper. and wedged all at one time. Use a clamp to ensure the stepped arm-to back-post joint fully closes. \I AY/JU:'I:E 2011 61 Fit the cNst rail to the chair. With the back posts glued In, clamp the crest rail to them In line with the mortises. Slide the rail back and forth to find the best fit and then mark out the tenons (left). The scalloped ends of the crest rail transition into tenons that enter the back posts (right). Because the posts need to be splayed later when Inserting the crest rail, having a tenon that fits tight on four sides Is awkward. So leave a slight gap above the tenon. chair. This mortise also can he drill~d with the combination of ~· ~-in.-dia. Forstner hit for tht.• :.houklcr and a 3/\1-in.-dia. hr.H.l point bit for the mortise, as Jon~ as the tip on the hrad-point is Start on tit• long enough to correctly center in tht..• dimple left hy the Forsrner. spindles. Use a Place the hack post in the scat and mca-.urc the distance 1-x: template to lay out tv.·l·cn where the arm-post tenon exits the arm and the shoulder and then bandsaw of the rear-post mortise. t!St- this distance to mark tht: shoulder the profiles on the on the arm's su~r-dry tenon. Fmish-turn the shoulder ami tenon. bottom of each spindle. Then use Shaping the arms and the back posts-Band-.,,-.\ the sidc a spokeshave profile on ~teh ann. then tarx· the W Point of contact. Number and dry-fit the spindles Into the seat. Draw an oval (above) across all the spindles where the sitters back will make contact (have someone sit on It to lay out the oval). Narrow the spindles above and below the oval and smooth the fronts and backs uslnt a drawknife (right). a spokeshave, and a scraper. 62 F I N E \l' 0 0 J) W 0 R K I N G Drill the creat r•ll. For stltblllty, clamp the crest rail to the angled bend lng form. Drill e~tch ~tngJed hole for the sp4ndles. stltrtmt nearer to the bltck of the rail to avoid • breaking throuth the tapered front . ..c lc support. Dry-rtt the spindles. then bend a thin strip of wood against their wid est part. Alter the angle of Individual spindles until you get a smooth. firM lng curve. $fMc• the aftlndles. Because rtte SPindles splay outwltrd from ttte cen ter, mark the loclttion and angJe where tttey enter the crest rail. M•r#c the loc• flon. Place mask lng tape on the top spoke!'>have~ while holdin~ tlu.:m in a sha\'e hor!'>C. hut you alc;o and base of the spindles to ShrM can "(.'l'\lrl' the .trtn in a \'io,(.' or "uh damps. Wlulo..• tho..• top!'> of the the correct depth aml-. w1ll he -..andcd smooth. I lc-.tH' dt!•an spokc:.havc.- f.tc~ts on of each tenon Then th~ u ndcr-.llil' lor the .;inc..·r to th~·o\ ' L'r. mark the orienta ~hilL' the: top!'> of the had. po~•~ -.till haw flat ~ide:~. cut th~ rnor tlon of each spindle tisl'S rw.11 till' top for the t:rc..'M rail. Now you can round thc..· rt•ar of so that you keep each hac..·k post and start to tapcr thl' tops. Leavl' a 1/1-in.-widc: 11at the nowlng curve set1ion on c:adt top. a~ it hdp-. to rl'st the ch~tir on thl'~ poinl'> after gJue-up. whc:n ,t,'o(.'tnhlin~ the rockl'r' To dry-fir thl' arm, posts a~ !>emhly. plan: the..• .trm pc:N m the !'>C ~It .md .. t~~..k.· the lY.ick ('Xl.'t onto the..· .1r111 while droppm~ the arm ~111d hac..·k (X)St into po -.ition To d.-..~S-.cmhle the joint. ~- ~~~ tho..• .1r111 pc:>~t in the .;c...o;lt. and hit up thl' hac..·k pc:N ~md arm It .tilth~..· toint~ look ~ All toceUter now. Glue the Shape and fit the crest rail spindles mto the seat. glue In one and the spindles end of the crest rail. then glue the Once till' nc..·'t r~til ha~ il4:l"ll spindles Into the rail (left). Then ~~ in till' lm:rl form and ha:. splay the back posts and glue In spc;:nt ;1 c..·oupic of days in tlw the other end of the crest rail. Install a smallwt:dge (above) to kiln. you .... an hc..·~1n shapm~ 11 close the 1/,ifP above each reno~~. ~nd rn.1km~ the t... ·nons. Clamp and trim tt flush later. the c.:n•'t r.ul .1c.. ro" the frunt of th~ bac..·k po,t~"> 1n lrnc wtth till' moniM' !'> II thc..·rL' i.'> any tw1~1 or misali~nlllc..'nt, shave the..: nl'st W\\ " '. lin .... "oodworking.com \I A Y J l ' :-; E 2 0 I I ROCKERS Bandsaw along dotted line. Rocker is trimmed later to ma tch the front and rear leg locations. Rocker blanks. ¥2 in. thick by 5 in. wide by 35¥2 in. long \ ~-- 14 in. -->;:..JI'f until it sits flat against the back posts. Mark the hack of the rail where it meets the outside of the posts to get the location and angle of the tenon~. E,·en though the nest morti~e~ don't go all the way through, the extr;a length is easily taken up by the flexibility How splayed are tile legs? Use a bevel gauge to discover the angle of of the posts. and the extra splay loob gcxxi in the final piece. the rocker slots versus the ground. If the front and back legs on the same Lay out the cove and rece~sed ar(•a on •.:ach encl. Bandsaw the side have different angles. average the readings. cove and then use a drav·,·knife and spokeshave to remove the hulk of the recessed area. Lean· th<..· tenon parts a lillie thick and scrape them to final thickness whc:n smoothing the crest. Cut th<..· tenons about 1/t<> in. shorter than the mortise~ to ea~e installation. It is now timc: to work on the spindles. Lay out and then handsaw the recesses on the bottom ends, then shave the tenons round. Once all of the spindles are dry-fitted into the seat. number the Bevel the rockers. sequence :md th<..:n dra\\· an oval on them that roughly encloses Set the bandsaw ta ble at the angle of ·where th<..· sitter's ba<..·k will make the mo~t contact. Shave from the rocker slots and these mark~ to the ends and facet the edges. Then shave, scrap<..·. bevel the bottom and sand the fronts a nd backs. Dry-fit thl.' crest rail and mark edge of each rock the spindles where they intercept it. Cut the spindles to length er. Bandsaw the top including 'Ys in. for the top tenons. and then fini~h shaping them. edge square. A rocker that rolls. Use a pair of straightedges to align the rockers and Measure the gap and deepen tile slots. Discover which rocker Is far set them at the correct depth in each slot. thest from the bottom of the slot and measure the distance (left). Mark this distance on either side of the other three legs. rem ove the rockers. and then chop down to the line (right) to bring all four slots level. 64 FI!' A smooth transition. Now you can dry-fit the rockers and fair the curves on the top edge so that they terminate at the legs. www.finc:woodworking.com M .... Y !J l i :-.; E lOll 6S A Chessboard Made Easy Go with veneer every time BY CRAIG THIBODEAU TWO WAYS TO USE IT Cheasboard or c:heas tllble? Add solid-wood edging for a simple chess board that can be stowed away, or incorporate the veneered panel into a table design of your choosing, 1/l 66 F I NE 'IX'OO DWORKJ:-IG " PhocO\, C:XCt1'1f .... ~ ...... "'•.:<1 PRECISE STRIPS cut ~d~e of the veneer and cut the fir~ t 2-in. strip. Stral&htedte doubles Repeat this process, using the straight~dg~ as the siz as a template. Make ing guide. until you have four dark strips and fiw a plywood guide exactly as wide as your desired light stnps or five dark and four light-it doesn't re squares. and use It to ally lll.ttter Ensure that all of the strips have dean guide a sharp veneer edges free of tearout and chips, and replace any dam saw_Glue sandpaper aged strips. on the bottom to keep the guide from slipping. Strips become squares For each new strip. line Now use blue masking tape to create an a rra~· of al up the guide with the edge you just cut. and t crn at in~ strips. applying the tape o n the glue face, simply saw along the where you did your cuttinR Start by just taping across opposite side. the joints every Z. in. or so, and then run long pi~ccs of tapt: alon~ the joints. Tape the strips together. Use blue tape to pull the strips together tightly (above) and then tape each seam (right). Alternate four of one color with nve of the other: It doesn't matter which. The next step is to square off one end of the n·nccr sheet. TI1is is critical. so use an accurate square to line up your guide. ~ow usc the ~uide to crosscut 2-in. wide strips from the veneer sheet until you have eight equal strips of ~ll ternati n ~ sq u a re~. All of the stri ps now need to be Oipped over to the show face so you can sec the veneer and align the squares when taping. just flip one strip at a tim~: l.'nd for end :. 68 F I i\ E \\~ 0 0 D \'n) IU\1 N G Blue t.pe for •U4tmbly. Keep the strips in order as you create the chessboard pattern. Work on the show face, which allows you to see the alignment clearly. Just a few pieces of tape are fine here, and then flip to the glue face and put blue tape both across the seams and along them. for alignment only, so your taping is far from owr. It goes quickly. though. Whole Iotta taping To gt!l tlw vc:ne<.•r tape where it hdongs, you need to t1ip the pattern over again and cover the other side with blue tape, pulling it acrus.., the joints first and then putting IonS( strips along tht: joints. Now 01p it over once mon: and rcmm·e the o;rnall amount of blue tape from the show face. Then apply moist n:n<.·cr tape to this face one long strip at a time, making ~>ure the strips overlap slightly and cowr the l'ntire dl<.'ssboar<.l. When alltlw wet strips are in plan~ and hurni..o;hc<.l , place the entire veneer assembly under a piece of ~ti>F or ply"'.-oud for a few hours. Oth<.•r• wisc the wet tape will <.Iiston the Vl'nc:er and pull the :;quare~ apan as it dries. After the tape has dried. trim off any on:rhan~otmg pieces with a ra7.or knife. &tnd rcmm·e all of the rc· maining blue t www.fincwoodworking.com .\1 A Y /J U I' F. 2 0 l I 69 Finishing touches ADD MITERED BANDING of banding veneer flip the pattern over so the vcneer tape i<; facsng up and lay a strip of blue tape <~round the penmeter k-aving about half overhanging. l:-1ip the sheet again and begin sticking the banding strips onto the tape. pressmg the banding strips up against thc chessboard to create tight joints. Allmv the banding strip.~ to overlap each other at the cornt•rs. :-.low you miter the corne rs simply by aligning the cutting guide at 45° on each corner and cutting through both pieces of banding w ith a ra1.or knife. Remove the excess pieces, and then p ress the mitert:d corner together. pulling it tight with a piece of blue tape across the joint if necessary. Once the corners arc finished. do the whole tape dance again. Apply blue tape to the joints ht!tween the banding and the chess board pattern Flip it over and remove the blue tape from the veneer-tape side. Check for tight miter JOint-;, and veneer tape all along the banding line, and then Blue t.pe • pin. Put <;tick the whole thing under that piece of .\tDF again. a strip around each edge of the show face. Now turn It Into a real chessboard leaving about half of Cut your ~IDF substrate as close as possible to the size the tape overhanging. of the veneer pattern but not smaller. and join and cut Then flip the pattern a backer venccr too. Normal yellow glue works fmc, o11er. and the panel is small enough that you ca n usc damps to do the pressing. ;1s opposed to a \·acuum bag. Scuff sand the MDF on both sides to help with adhesion. Use MDF or panideboard cauls fo r the glue-up. a layer of thin c-.trdboard to spread the pressure. :md thin plastic sheeting to resist the glue. You·ll need plenty of clamps, and either some deep-reach \'ersions or Pl•ce Ute lulndlnt. bowed cauls to get pressure in the cente r of the panel. Pull It tight to the edges of the pattern as you Apply an even layer of glue. and then carduUy place press It down, and sim your veneer (tape side up) on the: substrate and pres.., it ply overlap the ends. aiJ over to help secure it. Then quickly tape it in place Cuttlnlt tulde strl~<•• •pin. Line up your cutting guide with the corners of the overlap, and use a sharp knife to cut through both lay ers (right). Remove the waste pieces, and you should have a perfect miter (far rlght). Do the blue-tape dance again to get 11eneer tape on the show face and you are ready to lay up the panel. 70 F I N I! W 0 0 D W 0 R K I N G Veneer both sldea. Get your clamps. cauls, glue. and other materials together. and Loc:lc It down qulclcly. Wrap a few pieces of tape around start with the backside veneer when making the sandwich. Put glue on the substrate the bottom and top veneers to keep them from curling or only, using a roller or a finely notched spreader to control the amount. sliding around. SMART SANDWICH MDF or particleboard ca~l \ Thin cardboard ~ Veneer pattern Backer veneer You don't need • vacuum bat. A vacuum bag /s easier, but clamps and cauls will work. too. If you come up short on clamps, add extra cauls to distribute the pressure. with scn:-ral pit..-ces of blue tapt> wr.tpped from the CLEAN UP THE EDGES hacker vcnl'l'r over the top of tlw dw~shoard H'lll'er After the pand b dry, rcmO\l' tlw \encer ta~. \X'l't the ~urf o.-.... tn~ l>.dh J llunll)n MAY/Jl' Sf. 2011 7 1 GEARING UP CHOOSE YOUR GUN CLEAR CAREFULLY THE AIR Water-based finishes will Water-based fm1shes corrode an alummum are very sensitive to -- ~,,., , .., __ 1;..,{111 cup. Instead, moke contamination. Use a 6.. -·-.- · ·~·· .. ,...... sure the cup and the filter to remove mols ...... l--·- ... gun·s fluid pauages ture and oil coming are either stainless from the compres steel or plastic. 3M s sor. Th1s comblnea PPS system of plastic regulatorj fifter costs cups w1th disposable S145 at homestead· liners works well (far flnishingproaucts right). .com. ALUMINUM STAINLESS STEEL PLASTIC ing. hL"rc.: 1.., your c:h:mcc to fin.11ly .Jt:hieve pn>ft.•:-..-.ional-looking NO TACK CLOTH . fini~hl."-. '~ llhout the need for .m l.'Xplosion-pnx>f -.pray hooth. PLEASE Use a aamp cotton The right tools and conditions are critical or mlcrofiber cloth to One thinJ.: that ha.-.n·t chanHl.'d b that water-ba1>1.'d lini-.111.'1-> rl.'main wipe away sanding aust. A sticky tack generally fuo;sier than solvent-h;t:-.c..•d on1.•s. Your spray ~un needs cloth can leave resi to have..· c..·itlwr -.tainless-sll.·t:l or plastic..' tluid p;t1->s;tHI.'S l~. .'l:ausc due that will repel water-ha~'(_l tini,hes corrode: :tlurninum quickly. water-based fimshes EverythmH mu..,t be dc:~n. dc..·an. dean! Kel.'p tht.' ... urfacc comaminant-fr1."C, the ~un dc..·dll.'.th..·d to water-ba~d hnbhes. tht." air :-.ourc..c..· (if uunpn..·ssor dri,en) filtered to remoH· mot1->ture and oil, and tlw 1->pray HUn's cup dean (a disposable linlllH h. hesl). I havt• :-.prayc..•d solvent-has1.·d fini-.h a:. low as ~'i°F and ~otten away with it, hut \Vater-b:l!'ol.'d fini:-.he-. an: more tcmpt·raturl.' sc:onsi th·e. Th1.· -.af1.· r.m~c: is about (..0° to Hll0 F. on·r th~o.· t·omaminant:o-. tir1>t One thin~ you don't haH' to \\OJ'T)' about i-. comp.nihtlity with On mo..,t woods it 1:-.n ·r nc:c.. - nc>load ~tndp;tper. which h;t-. 'tl'.tr,th.'' to prevent tlw P·•rt:r from t.::o-.:o-.ary to pre-rai~ the..· ~rain gumminH up. ~h.·arah.'s used to ll';t\'1..' :1 w:~x·y coatin~ th.tt fouled up IX.'fore -.praying a watt•r-h.t:o.l.'d water-ha:-.~.·d finishes, but modt•rn st~.·aratcs don't han· thi1> problem. finish, hut you should on ~narly or fi~ured wood. Anyone..· who has n:finio;lwd old furniture is f.tr11ili.1r v. ith "fish e~·e." th1.· ,hallow uaters in the fint..,h Gtused hy cont:~min:mts. in How to warm up the color particular -..hcone. You c.1n .1dd a fish-eye destroyer to ..c>lvent One: of tlw main dift\.•rt·nn.·-. IX.'tWel.'n ..c)lvcnt- .md \\'atc:r-h.J-.t.·d ba! Not your dad ~ lacquer For 80 years. nltrocellulou lec:quer has been the benchmark aplnst which all other finishes are found wantlnc. Each coat melts Into the prevtous one. creating a single film of ftnlsh no matter how many coats are applied. This creates the dimensional and reflective sheen that allows you to look down Into the beauty of the wood. Tryln& to associate their new finishes with the Industry standard, manufacturers started calling many water-based formulations lacquer. However. the ln&redlents of the two have nothing In common. Water-based lec:quers usually consist of a &lycol solvent, an Krylk: resin. • &Jycol ether. and vartoua leveling aeents, defoamers, and other performance enhancers. This Is not your father's lacquer but tt will, most likely. be yours. -T.M . Pl>ocoo ~~~rk "- hulockl \I A Y J U ~ E 2 0 1 I 7.3 SECRETS OF SUCCESS FILTER FIRST Before spraying, pour the finish through a fine mesh paint filter to remove any contaminants that could block the gun. 2 WAYS TO WARM UP THE COLOR S.al first with tlnt•d sh•llae. If you don't like the coo/look of a water-based finish on some water-based can I~ perfect. On cherry, walnut, maho~any, or fig darker woods. ured woods (including maple). it isn't. You can solve the prohlem warm up the wood by applying hy tintin~ the coatin~ot with an amber dye to mimic the tone of dewaxed shel solvent lacquers and oil-based products. Hut water-based llnishes lac tinted with a haw a milky appcar.mce at tlrst. makin~ it hard to judge thc tone. dye concentrate A ht.•ttt:r approach is to coat the bart: wood with d<.•waxcd shel (homesteadflnlsh lac. You can tint light-colored shdlac such ~~., heigc or hlond. or ingproducts.com) use darker ~otr..tdes such as orange or garnet. This eliminate~ any as a sealer. need to pre-raise the grain. Also. if you wipt: on a coat of oil to cnham:c a wood's t1gurc, apply a coat of dewaxcd ~hellac lx:fort: Or tint th• fin usin~ot a water-based fini:o.h. Ish. You can tint the finish with Big pluses: Faster build, fewer fumes one or more dye concentrates If the preparations for :-.praying water-bascd finbht:s arc morc (woodworker elaborate than for their solvent sihlin~s. the actual spraying is .com). If you use easier. l 'nlike solvent-hased lacquers, which tend to ht: sticky water-soluble and syrupy. water-based coatings spray thin and wet but have dye powders. mix excellent "ding.M which nu:an ... fewer .-.a~s and run.-.. They dry in the dye In some about the ~ame amount of tirnl' as solvcnt-lxtsed oncs-.30 to ~:; warm water be minutl'S. With an~' type of finish, the number of coats is subjective. fore adding it. Howc\·er. because: the ~olids content of watcr-ba:o.c:d fintshc:~ is generally hi~her than f<>r solvt:nt-based ones, you will hl· pleas antly surprised after only the S<.'cond coat. This fa~ter build offset!'> the fact that water-hast:d finishes cost lOOA> to 30o/r> more. l'se a small setup for the ~n. such as Accuspray's Q.()q3-in. nee<..lk an<..l a No. c:; aircap. You l"OUid u:o.c a No. 7 aircap for a large surface. After prolonged :o.pmying. crustl'd coating may build up on your 74 fl:-IE I);()OI>WORI\ll'G NO FANCY SAND BOOTH NEEDED BETWEEN If you don't have a COATS purpose-built spray With a quick-drying, booth like this one, water-based finish build a simple knock In a clean environ down one. An exhaust ment. you shouldn't fan draws air through need to sand away the filters. pulling dust nibs between away overspray. coats. However. if you let the finish dry for longer than the time specified on the can, you must sand the surface to give the next coat a me chanical bond. spray gun. I apply a thin film of Va:-dine on the horn~ of the air cap first, ~o I can !lick off the huildup later with my fingernail. Water-ba~ed finishes arc safer-Th..: momc:nt wlwn soh·ent tlnishes arc: the: mo'>t dangemus i:- not when spraying them-you're wearing a respirator and the: fan is drawing off the fumes-but when they have just dried. You'vl· rl"moved your respirator and are scuff-sanding the surface. 11ll: fan has been shut off. hut all the 5olvents .m.·litting offthe surface and hanging heavy in the air. Tltis is increJibly lethal exposure. ~'att.'r-h;t,c:d products gh·e otT gas, too, but are far lt.'~S toxic. Tilt: ga'> ha:- a snwll similar to mild ammonia. Rubbing out and cleaning up Most water-based materials <:ontain a hl<'nd of resin., such as acJYI ics and urethanes that offer.. dur.thility and clarity, and you can often get a perfect finish off the gun. particularly for a satin sheen. BROWN BA.G: A. PRO'S SECRET WEAPON However, if you \\ W\'\' \ . fi nc'' oodworking.com MAY/JUNE 201 I 75 Garry Bennett's Un-Trestle Tab e Unconventional design is a portrait of the man BY ASA CHRISTIANA 76 F I N E W 0 0 D W 0 R K I N G rry lk-nn~tt ha-. .1 ft_., .. complain!' <>n'-' ... rx·ople u~m~ tu-. nuJdk· nam\.'. 1\no'\, G \\ llllh ~uck "mwlum <.k."!>pitc hh h'-''1 c..·f· fon .. Anothc..·r '' peopl~ who know him only lor Ju, ·:-.;;ul Cahin'-1 .~ a fine ca-.c.· pk·n· '"ith a naal dnn·n into it. whkh ~tppcarc..' TABLETOP: HOW TO MAKE TH IN STRO NG Bennett was dead-set on the thin tabletop, so he had to figure out how to make it strong. He uses breadboards to stiffen it laterally, and reinforces it along 1ts length with long, two-ply rails that pass through the tops of the trestles. Large dowel, 2'1• in. dia. by 4 in. long MORE INGENIOUS JOINERY The thin top poses another challenge: attaching the base. Bennett solved that by gtu1ng a dovetailed cleat to the top of each trestle, and then nestling a row of blocks against the cleat, waxing the mating surfaces and gluing the blocks directly to the tabletop. This allows the tabletop to be slid Block glued and off the base. nailed to underside of table 1 square= 1 in. I ------. ----....! ~~E~------86~in. ------~ I~oo~~c;--- 37 in.-----;)1;..11 OVERALL MEASUREMENTS T Bennett works by feel, dry-fitting the base to see 301n. exactly how far apart the trestle should go and how big to cut the tabletop. But he never compromises function, and always designs the table for eight people: at least 7 ft. long, w1th the trestles roughly ~--- 476/ein. ---~ 1 4 ft. apart, leaving a comfortable overhang for a sitter ~29'12in.4 at each end . The width is between 30 and 38 ln. 78 Fl N E WOO DWO RKI NG Dr-•won~'-" John I l.tnnldn. phot06 llacong P•l!•' and p ~7. r•l!hl): K..•ll)' J. Dunton Checkered tnsert CHALLENGES ARE JUST OPPORTUNITIES Bennett wanted a thin top. to focus attention on the base. but that choice created a number of construction challenges. He overcame each one, and also found innovative and eye-catching ways to handle the joinery below. T-nut UNIQUE WEDGE SYSTEM A rare occasion Bennett holds in hiS huge wedges with a large dowel. Without the Aside from his shows at galleries removable dowel. it would be ~Bolt and museums. It Is rare to find 1m possible to get the wedge mto Breadboard posttion. The dowel also means Bennett outside his belo11ed ends Do11etatled cleat he doesn't ha11e to create an Oakland. let alone teaching a is cut after 1t tS angled morttse for the wedge. attached. class. But he has made a few exceptions over the years, each T-spacer time to build a trestle table for charity. The most recent of these events happened In 2008. at Marc Adams School of WoodWorking, where he recruited some of the school's skilled regulars to help him build another example of his versatile table. "(The project! is conducive to a lot of people working on it, because it's big; he says. Associate art director Kelly Dunton and I spent a week with Bennett in Indiana, taking notes Trestle post. for this article and shooting video 1 :v. in. thtck Tapered dado to document Garry's generous. forms morttse when two hal11es down-to-earth presence, and the of foot are glued heartfelt spirit of the together. event. -A. C. BUILT-UP JOINERY Rather than cut curved shoulders and a long ~--- Trestle foot. tenon on the fat trestle posts. Bennett JUSt 3 in. thick ~Online Extra completed glues on thtn outer p1eces, f1tt111g them first to For a free vtdeo of our wonderful week the curved feet. and then ustng a beanng gutded bUIIdmg thiS table w1th Garry Bennett. go bit to cut the mortise in the post. The shoulders to FlneWooclworklnl.com/elltras. on the stretcher are added on, too. and the stretcher's box·hke anatomy makes 1t easy to extend two sides for the wedge joinery. M A Y / J U ::-.; E 2 0 I I 79 ~••cl•• ..._ "Citeckerboam Trestle Jltble" (1985) has especially beautiful curves, and an eye-<:atchlng stretcher. BENNETT'S CHANGEABLE TABLE Garry Bennett built many versions of his trestle table in the 1980s,ln materials ranging from wood to steel and aluminum, and together they offer a window into the furniture maker's fearlessness and Imagination. They also show how an artist, once he or she finds a fruitful design, shakes It and works It over until every possibility has tumbled out. Bennett came to furniture making via art school, as opposed to traditional woodworkers like James Krenov and Tage Frid, who entered through a classic apprenticeship. ·some people rely on technique too much; Bennett said. "It doesn't always look good, but, jeez, It's well put together." As for the future of fine furniture, he made one prediction: "It ain't gonna be all Wood." Fun with joinery. The trestle joinery system Is very versatile, as seen In this desk, table, and bench (from left to right). Bennett Is as comfortable work Ing metal and glass as he is wood, and he treats each material with equal thoughtfulness. 80 P I NF. W OOOW O RKIN G "THE WAY I WORK , DON'T THINK A LOT," BE NETT SAID. ' I WORK PRETTY EMOTIONALLY: 'THAT LOOKS GOOD, DO IT.'" pic.:n•.., \\ t'rt' a big hit-a r.trt• thing in thl' ... tudio Otlwr th.tn :-.kctching c.:ur\t'' directly onto hh "-Ork fumlturt..• \Vorld. For 20 years. 1.'\'crything 'old out. At piece~. lknlll'tt u'e~ no drJwing~ :1s he build": Ml han· ""6. you can 'till find him in his !-.tudio t:\'cry day, an idc.:a in rny hc.:ad. and just :-.tan \\.orking it." Hi~ f(X"U~ neat in~ ll~">ahk· art. luhrit'atin~ hi~ muse \\ ith ~-:in, :tnd alway~ i~ lim·~ and shape..'~ . a~ oppo~c.:d to wood or t.•ntcrt:• in in~-: hb :u1ist friends. joim:ry. "I vil'W all my work as lim·. Whl'n I'm workin~ on a pic.:n·. I'm looking at it dl'ad-end for lim: [from Bennett's best piece? the endl. dead-on for lint..· [from the frontl and thrt..•e lkmwtt ' crcath·ity extt•nd.., from jewelry. \\ lwre ht..• quartL'r \'il'\\ [at an angle)." m~adc lu~ ..,tJn. to lightin~-: and furniture in .Ill t..'\·cr dlanging parade of material-. and modes. But hi~ Follow in his footsteps trt• ...,tk· tahll' hews close~! to "fint.'' woodworking, ;md I srx·nt tht• hcttl'l' part of a Wt..'t'k \\ ith Bennl'll in In it is tht..• piec:t• he has rcpeatt.·d most often. II is also till' diana, at both benches and bars, and it was nne of c 1nt..· project he has taught at workshops. th<.> hi~hli~hh of my carct·r with Fine \~oodworking \\ ith .Ill art-sciHxJI background. like tdlow ... tudio \X'hilt· lk:nnl'n .tdmittcd it i. .., much harder the..,t..· da y~ furmturt.• pioneer~ \X't..•nddl Ca~tJe and Judy \It' Kit..•. to sell ant..,tu.: furniture maoc on !oopl'C.:. I left inspirt..·d lknnctt came at the trt..•..,tlt· form the ~am(;' \\ ay he to follow hb lead, to tru~t m~· O\\ n intuition ti: >r both l':llllt..' .It till' craft of woodwork in~. by ignoring it:-. miL·., desi~n and con~truc.:tion. As .1 hobbyist, with no prt..•:-. and ~tanding it on it:-. hc:ad. I k traded in till' usual sure to make.· money from my work, I have no ~.·x n ~:-.t•s . thil'h. top for a paper-thin ont.•, setting it nn a cartoon In that spirit, Be nnett is sharin~-: hb table desi).ln with ishly ma.,sh~,· base. Tlw r~.·..,ult is an artist's pbyground, you ( ~l'L' pp 7M-79 ). to in:-.pin: you to ignorl' thl' rule:-. \\ ith cur\ t'" and joim:~ th.11 im·ite interpretation. "The and darl' you to ncate art. 0 way I \\ork. I don't think a lot," Bennett said. "I \\ ork pn.:tt~ emotional!~·: ·n1at look ... ~ood, do it.' M Asa Chnst1ana IS the editor. \ 1 A 'r I J U ~ E 1 0 I I Rl r~~~~rs gallery BARBARA SHELTON Victoria, B.C., Canada James Krenov's work was the inspiration for this boxwood and sycamore cabinet on a kwila stand ( 10lf.z in. deep by 181/e in. wide by 521/e in. tall). The marquetry is sycamore leaves and seeds, made with sycamore wood, and the handmade silver pulls mimic the seeds as well. Shelton designed the pulls in collaboration with jeweler Erin Dolman, who made them. The finish Is shellac. PHOTOS: INGEBORG SUZANNE (CABINET); MICHAL OPALSKI (PULLS) MICHEL CHARBONNEAU Saint-Denis-Sur-Richelieu, Que., Canada Charbonneau's solid-birch cabinet is 18 in. deep by 32 in. wide by 36 in. tall. He says that the most time consuming aspects of building the piece were carving the many rosettes and finishing it using aniline dye, gel stain, and a hand-rubbed varnish. 82 FINE WOODWORKING C.L. PHILLIPS New London. Conn. This Art Nouveau bed (67 in. wide by 85 in. long by 56 in. tall) is based on a design from the penod by A. Landry, but Phtlhps modtfied it by using hghterwoods (Swiss pear and binfs·eye maple mstead of the walnut and ash in the onglnat) and adding carved foliage and calla lilies. The fimsh ts shellac. ADAM WEBB Whit1anga, New Zealand Webb ..ad tD CIIIIMy a feeltng of lightness lftCI warmth in this contemporary take on a Sh1ker hall table. The tablo Is 14¥. ln. deep by 59 ln. wide by 34 in. tall. The cherry Is finished with Danish oil: the maple.-...._ only. PHOTO DAH El ALL[,_ JOHN LEE Maynooth. County Kildare. Ireland This chest of drawers. made of European white oak, is part of lee's series of sculptural fumtture that combines dramatic curves and texturing. After he built the shaped cabinet. he added the flutes and sandblasted the wood to enhance the gram. The di'3'Hf'S open wrth a push-front mechantsm . Fintshed With lacquer. the chest is 28~ '" · deep by 841f• in. Wtde by 361f• ln. tall. PHOTO: ROLAND PASCHOFF ~~ .... Y J l' :.... E 2 0 I l fi.~ readers gallery'""''""·' MICHAEL DISANO Fairfax Station. Va. Disano built this cherry and poplar chest of drawers from plans by Carlyle lynch ( 1909-1989 ). lynch, a woodworker and teacher of woodwooong, was known for creating detailed plans of outstanding pieces of 18th and 19th century American furniture. The chest, finished with Danish oil, is 20 ln. deep by 39 in. wide by 62 in. tall. lynch credits Thomas Elfe (mid 18th century) as the original maker. See lynch's own article on building this chest in FWW #81. ANNETTE KOEHNEN Warmenhuizen, Netherlands --- - Koehnen built this chair from European ash during her second year at the College of the Redwoods. She wanted to learn chair design and also used this cha1r to learn bent-lamination and complicated joinery. Finished with Uberon Finishing Oil, the chair is 37 ln. deep by 33 ln. wide by 39 in. tall. PHOTO: JOHN BIRCHARD JERRY COUSINS Weaverville, Calif. Cousins had long wanted to build a curved-top chest with the lower panels inlaid with tulips, when he stumbled on the perfect piece of claro walnut for the top. He then knew he needed a different wood for the panels, one that would showcase the marquetry but not clash with the swirly walnut grain. He chose straight grained afromosia. Finished with shellac, lacquer, and wax, the chest is 16 in. deep by 40 ln. wide by 25 in. tall. PHOTO: DIANA SHEEN 84 I'INE WOODWOIU\ING TIMOTHY COLEMAN Shelburne, Mass. Coleman began c:nNitlng stamped fumrture years ago after mowing his sllop Into a space formerty occupied by the Greenfield Steel Stamp Works. Unlimited potentl•l. Between He found discarded steel stamps all over his new wood choices and stamp com space, and began playing with them on wood to binatlons, the possibilities for add detail and texture. For this bln:t's·eye maple unique patterns are endless. and pear piece (3 ln. deep by 24 ln. wide by 32 ln. tall), Coleman found a leather punch In an antiques store and sharpened It before putting It to work. This mirror Is one of six, all from different woods with different patterns on the inner frames. The finish is shellac. Simple flow-to: Hit the stamp with a hammer. Coleman trios to be as sponta neous as he can and works with a mini· mal amount of layout lines. RI C HARD CHILL C OTT Ruskin, Fla. Japanese gardens and tatami mats were the inspiration for Chill Cott's mahogany table (60 in. square by 30 in. tall). The tabletop layout renects the rules for arrangement and size of tatami. These mats are always twice as long as they are wide, and according to tradition, can be laid out auspiciously or inauspiciously. To avoid an inauspicious layout that is said to bring bad fortune, th.e mats should not be placed in a gnd pattern. and there should be no point where the corners of four mats touch. The finish is lacquer. The tiny tree was made by Chris Stiles. using manzanita branches, and Chill Cott found it In a gallery. W\\" f i nt:\\ -Vlod Smisbkeu~~·ch is (Ill associate editor. Set stringing deep to increase glue surface Q: I am making a A: NARROW STRINGING LOOKS BEST, so it is Federal-style table typically made from commercial veneer: Strips with stringing on arc cut, turned on edge, and glued into the the legs. What size groove. which is only about 1Ao in. wide. To should the stringing increase the glut! surface, make the grooYe be, and how deep about '116 in. deep. should I make the Cut a ~trip of venet•r 3/.~2 in. wide. turn it groove? <)0°, and glue it into the groove. If you cut the - ROSE MAXWELL, stringing any wider, you'll have trouble pressing Bloomington, Ind. it into the groove. If it's any narrower. it might not stick out above the groove after it's pressed in. After the glul' is dry, plane or scrape it flush to the leg. For more ck>tail, St'L' my :lftide .. Stringing and Banding Made Ea .~y: in F\\'t1f' • 166. -Dan Fa fa i'i t/x• head oftbe Cahi,let ami Fumilllrt• MakittR Program at North !Jemwt Street School. MAI 86 Phorw· staff; drawinj!s: Kelly J. Ounrcm For accurate joints, always Mark the face. Using a lumber crayon, make a reference mark to keep mark from the same face the parts In order and facing the same way. Then start your layout by scribing the tenon shoulders. Q: I'm learning A: YOU DONI NEED A TWO to cut mortise· CunER MORTISING GAUGE to lay and-tenon joints out thi~ joint. Ju~t m~1rk th<: by hand, but I only two ~illcs of the mortise and have a marking t<:n o n on<.' at a time, and h<:' gauge with one o;ur<: to lay out all tht:: lin<:s cutter. How can I using the ....:une face of your use It to lay out the part~ a~ a refc:rc:nce. TI1at way, Joint accurately? the joint.-; will align perfectly -ISMAEl SALAZAR, even if your stock thicknl's." Schaumberg, Ill. \'aries slightly. Although it might Sl'l'll1 intu itive to ~ct your marks from each si<.k· to en<;urc a cl'ntered renon. it is morl' a<.·<.·urate to mark all Scribe the first side on all parts. Set the gauge and mark the first side lines from the ~~•me face. of the mortises (left). then move to the first side of the tenons (right). First, mark the front face of each pil'ce using a lumber crayon. Next, set the marking gauge for orw side of th<.· mor tise and mark a ll of the mor tises. Keep the same setting on the gauge and mark the si M A Y I) U !': E 2 0 1 1 87 Q&A continued A trouble-free shellac finish. Dilute a 3-lb. cut Thinned shellac works better of shellac with an equal part of denatured alco Q: I make small A: DON'T GIVE UP ON IT YET. l used to have hol. Apply it with a cot boxes and finish that same problem. hut then I learned ton pad. After the first them with shellac. I a simple and quick way to apply shd coat dries. wet-sand It with P600-grit paper pad on the coats and bc that is perfect for boxes. The key using mineral spirits as sand between them. is to use a very thin cut of shellac. I the lubricant. Pad on a However, the finish start with a 3-lh. cut and mix it '50-'lO second coat of shellac, always gets thick and with denatured alcohol. Thinning it has let it dry, then buff it unattractive. Before I two advantages. It doesn't build up as with 0000 steel wool. give up on shellac, do quickly and it dries much faster. so it's Finally, apply a thin coat you have any tips for easy to get ev\.·n coats without streak of wax and polish it with a soft cloth. a better finish? ing. And in less than 30 minutes you -JEFF CARMICHAEL. can apply both coab of shellac, as well Corvallis. Ore. as wax. to a small box. -.Halt Kenney is an associate editor. Great for small boxes. Thinned shellac goes on without streaks and dries In just a few minutes. Quick fix for a sagging jointer Q: The infeed table A: THE FACT THAT THE TABLE IS SAGGING tells on my jointer is me your machine has clo\'ctailed ways sagging. I've lost the with gihs. \'\ 'hen the screws holding the manual and don't gibs in pbce work loose. the table sags. know how to fix it. To fix it, raise the table until it is le\'el Would you please with the high point of the hbdes' arc. explain how? Loost:n the locknuts on all of the gih -DAN HEINZ. screws and back out the screws about Normal, Ill. a quarter turn. 88 FINE '.l;'OOI)WOHKtNG Ten-cent solution for hollow-chisel woes Q: l''le just A: BV THE SOUND OF IT. your .lUJ.!er bit purchased and set mu't ha\'(.' lmle or no ronru to rum up a hollow-chisel \\ ithin the hollow dthd. The hit is mortiser. Howe'ler, fau(.·r at ib tip and ncl..'d~ to stick out when I turn the from the.: l..'nd of th<.• d1hl..'l a little. To machine on , It makes 'c.:t thi' dearancc properly. I u~c the a screeching noise "dime trick": Simply in,talltlw chisel and then when I cut with a dime: het\n"(.·n tlw chio;el and Set It, ralae a mortise, the chips morti~·r and ti~hten 11 in plane•. Thc.:n. It, an d square clog the chisel and u:.. inJ.! a 'nap a:- a pad, pu'h the hit lt. First. set the burn. What am I doing up until it is S(.'atc.:d a).!ainst the chisel hollow chisel wrong? and ti).:htcn it. finally, loosen the chb at the correct - ARTHUR LANEY. d anJ push it up a., far ;a, it goes--the clearance using Pittsburgh. Pa. !>pac.:c.: whcrc.: the dime.: u-.ed to he: will a dime. Then nt.":tk' the nt'l't'~...,.,~- dcar:tnct'. \X'hile raise the auger you're at it, put a .;quare: a).:ainsr the bit up firmly Into the chisel and fc:nce to c:n,un: that the ~..hi~·l is prop tighten lr. Finally, erly ali).!nc:d. reset the chisel -.\1ichaei!H..•m·icb is Fine by raising it fully \'l;'oodwc )fkin~ :.. ort direc:tm: and simult Keep your Fine Woodworking b•ck issues looking brand new. Stort• your treasured corin of Fm~ Forrest Sharpening Wc>(),/wt~r.lillg in slipcase's for c•~~· reference .Jg.Jin .tnd .tg•in! Bound in d.trk hlue and Helps Pret'ent Bad Cuts Like These t•mho~,._.d in gold, each case ooids more than .1 year's worth of Fim: Woo,lw••rkillg. Only S~.9S fS-24.95 for 3, S49.9S for 6). Plu.• •1"1'1""1 .nd ~ P.,..W. m l ' ' lund> To place: .tn order using your credit card, ~all 1 ·800·888·8286 Oul 1Je the U.S . •mel C.111.1dJ call 1-203 -42t>-/\ 171. Operate 3-phase woodworking machines from single-phase! • lmmed.ate deliVery Free Return Freight on Sharpening 5+ Blades! • Two year warranty • True 3-phase output Any Carbide· Tipped Circular Saw Blades 7"-12" • Whisper Quiet operation limited Time Offer. Act Today. Mention Code FS. • No-charge tech support, 24-7 • Regulated output for CNC Machmes • The most capacity at !he least cost, guarantee llolftOOdwotiU.,.COM/Nrt.rlpiiC I 800-719 6906 1.3017 ft-~lcom/marlldl>lxe 1800 719 69061l051 W\\ \\.lirH.·~nndworking.com \I A Y J l' !': E 2 0 I I Amas 1 1 t1 erA class How to make thick, light tabletops TORSION-BOX DESIGN WORKS FOR ANY SIZE TABLE A PEEK INSIDE BY BR I AN L. SARGE NT Outer veneer rom conference tables to coffee tables. many contemporary designs use thil·k tops-2 in .. 3 in .. even q in. thick. However. making these from solid wood presents problems. They are tremendously heavy, and they require a lot of expensive wood and labor to flatten them. Th~ solution is the torsion box. \X'ith it, you can make thick tops that are flat. stable, strong. and fairly lightweight. I'm not talking about the old way of making torsion boxes, where you build a solid wood frame and fill it with a latticework of crosspieces. I'm t:1lking about :1 relatively modern take, \Vith the labor-intensive latticework core replaced with resin impregnated cardboard that resembles a honeycomb. The stuff is easy to cut, easy to use, and very lightweight. but you do Bottom skin, need :l \·acuum bag. ¥4-in.-thick MDF The honeycomb helps create a perfect substrate for my favorite veneers. You often s~:e it used in large pieces. like 90 F I N E \X' 0 0 D W 0 H K I N G PhCJto'o TI1 1 1tn .t ~ M':Kc ... nn.t dt4t W tn~.; · John T1..·trt·auh Create your Ultimate Workshop ... It's easy with our Make your ultimate workshop come to life at FineWoodworking.com/ DreamShop: Designing a shop has never been easier. • Simply set up your shop space by adding walls. windows, and doors · Read tips from our experts on how to lay out your tools for the best workflow · Review, select, and place the tools of your choice in your shop • Print your layout and list of tools Enjoy this experience brought to you by: 0 2011 The Taunton Pr- - ~---~ - ' t - - • • • • I ~ ' ...... · " \I A Y I J U !'I E 2 0 I I 91 conference tables, but you can ust• it to make a top of any size which gives me an open tirnt' of alxmt .3'i to -15 minutes (with or any thickness. Once you've used this honeycomb core, you'll a shop temperature close to 70°F). The entire assembly is glued never built! a latticework torsion box again. together in a vacuum hag. The photos on theM~ pagt's show you ho\v to build a 2112-in. What is this stuff? thick top. but the process is the sanH: no matter what thickness Resin-impregnated honeycomb sh~.:ets ar~.: available from top you are making. Vacuum Pressing Systems (vacupn:ss.com) in 2-ft. by +ft. sizes and in 112-in .. 3f.1-in., and l-in. thicknesses ($12. $17. and $20. Make a cardboard sandwich, then put it in a bag respectively). First. you need to build a solid-wood frame the samt: thickness The honeycomb is placed within a solid-wood frame and as the core materials. Darryl Keil. owner of Vacuum Pressing glued between two MDf skins. The honeycomb sheets can he Systems, says a g 92 FINE \l'OOI>'X'OIU\JNG about 1A in. larger than the frame. Making the skins oversize panel (making sure to get glue into the corners), add the next makes assemhly less fussy. They'll he trimmed flush before the layer of honeycomb. and glue and install the top MDF skin. veneer is applied. Now put on the top caul and u~e masking tape on all four :\'ow cut the layers of honeycomb and the middiL' panel of corner:- to hold the sandwich together. MDF to fit inside the frame. TI1e honeycomb can be cut with Slide the asSt!mbly into the Yacuum hag, seal it up. and lower a utility knife and a .~traightedge. I teml to cut it a bit oversize the Yacuum pressure to 15 hg. If you have :1 pump that can't and compress the material to fit inside the frame. OrKL' all the be adjusted. simply unscrew the filler jar in the line, releasing parts are cut, lliy-assemble the top to make sure everything air until the gauge read~ 15 hg. Leave the :.~ssembly in the bag. is fining well. I use a 1/2-in.-thick melamine caul on the top under pressure. for at least five hours. 'JC' hen you remove the and bottom to help spread clamping pressure and protect the assembly from the press, stand it up on edge or place it on assembly's top and edges from ding~. For efficiency. assemble stickers for 12 hours so that air can circulate around it This way the parts on top of the bottom caul. it will dry evenly and stay flat After flush-trimming the top and Start with the bonom panel. using a foam roll~:r to apply an bottom skins, you're ready to apply the veneer. even coat. Put the frame in plaet~ and then the first layer of Have fun with your designs and this process. 0 honeycomb. Next, roll glue onto one siJe of the middle l\IDF panel and put it inside the frame. Apply glue to the top of that Brian L Sargent makes furniture in New Hampshire . .-..1 A Y /J tJ :-.J E l 0 l I 93 See advertiser Index WOODWORKERS MART on page t7 for more information. FAST DOVETAILS Sec up in under 5 minuces. Order your Keller Dovetail Sysrcm now! to Plant Trees ... No"'! 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W 0 R K I N G Easy ways to get product information from advertisers lhe in-book Request Card is now gone. When you re looking for information on our advertisers' products. you can find it online at: FlneWoodworklng.comjMarketplace Or. you can call our Information Request line at: 800-719-6906 J f If Jt llldl \\ HI ) U nJ rt under tach t~dwrtiMr's ad. 181M treat lnfornultlon... now e•ler to 8CCIIII INDEX TO ADVERTISEHS For quick access to advertisers, go to www.finchomcbullding.com/marketplace or caiiS00-719-6906 \ll\ ~ R 11'1 II E•t~ f"'tr• \IIHkli,~R Ea•...... on ,.... ,,,,. • 1111-.t:R Eat- ,..~· \'I l" 9.c•IINurilnK f:ur p. ')9 I:Z \lnrll\llljt (.D 3041 p. (j'; IJKJIOIIUI 3026 p. H ,\dna lnol.. ult.\, lnr 3027 p.95 •-111hlj( 1.:~-...:•r 3063 p.35 \urth"'"'' V.oodllorilin~: ~1ud1u 3033 p. 'N Affinil)' 'liMII V.urk.' 3034 p. 27 •Hdt•r (,mup I I ~ 3039 p. 27 '1111· CI'Uonndl Cl~'kJl ln,llluh· 3045 J>. 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E 10 I I 97 Inside a tapered lamination BY ANISSA K AP S A LES TAPERED LAYERS ENHANCE THE SHAPE A core of tapered bending plywood combines st rength with a graceful look. ured by thL" dramatic llx>k and technic:ll challenges of curves, Enrico K6nig (see the h:Kk cover) m~arly always incorporates a deep bend in his furniturL". The trick to pulling it off \Vithout sacrificing strength is to u~e laminations: The strength come~ from the m:my byers and the rigid gludines (urea resin gluL" or epoxy) between them. To avoid the arc looking clunky. he tapers it, and to Jo that without cuning through the plies, he tapers each one before laminating. Kl''lnig uses a tapering sled he ~a\\ in F\.\"1.\"' :tl-t (''Tapered Lamination·· by Jere Osgood; a\·ailahll' at FineWoodwurking.com/L"xtrasJ, in Core is multiple layers of lfa·in.· Outer layers are lfs·in.-thick conjunction with a drum ~ander. thick bending plywood tapered bending plywood covered to 3f16 in. at the ends. by veneer. Simple sled. Konig uses a shopmade sled and a drum sander- (1) to taper the /ayers of bending ply. He uses a strong form with plywood ribs inside layers of bending ply glued and nailed on (2). He presses all the layers at once (3). including the veneer, using 1/,..in. vinyl Crosscut first, then trace, cut, and finish. Before cutting the sides of the /am/nation. he cuts its beveled ends. · He does this on the tablesaw with a jig that holds the piece upright ( 4 ). For the curved sides, Konig uses a router on a pivoting arm to create a template, and then traces the curves onto the workpiece (5). Then he uses a jigsaw ' to cut away the waste (6). Last, he routs the edges clean with a top-bearing bit and the same template ( 7). 98 F I :--< E \X' 0 0 D W 0 R K I :'< G Pt'k._)[( )'O;: Goran Rasiric llop). Enrl<.:o K.Oni~; d rd wi n~ s Jo hn Terre;m h _t JULY 20-23, 201111AS VEGAS, IIY LAS VEGAS COIYEmOI CEITEI www . awfsf1ir . org THE ASSOOA'T'DI OF WOOOWOICNJ & FURNISHINGS SUPPLJERS- FAIR SURROUND YOURSELF WITH OPPORTUNTY At AWFSeFair, opportunity is everywhere. Immerse yourself in the latest woodworking machinery and supplies, CNC technologies, lean manufacturing solutions, critical mformation and profit-making best practices-and get exactly what you need to stay strong in today 's new reality. Featuring seminars presented by Fine Wooclworlcmg magazine Photographing your Woo - Mike PekoviCh (Handcrafted Furniture Track) Google Sketch Up-Tim Killen (Small Shop 10 & Under Track) REGISTER NOW: www.AWFSfair.org I 800.946.AWFS hen he started making furniture in the 1990s, Enrico Konig says he was "a bit of a solid-wood snob. I figured veneered work was inferior." With a background in car pentry and a lucrative seasonal job running a tree-planting crew in his native Brit ish Columbia, Konig taught himself woodworking in the winters. His tastes r..tn to Arts and Crafts furni- ture and traditional solid-wood joinery. But when he had the idea for a table with an arched base, he began exploring bent-lamination and veneering with increasing excitement. Using a vacuum bag to glue up thin sheets of bending plyw 1 .ollllllllll How They Did It TtHtl top JH to,,.,. liow "'""'1'. ptdl·. ofl till' tr11 ky I Pro Portfolio 1111 "" .ttJ