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IS 12675 (1989): Guide to garment quality [TXD 20: Made-up ]

“ान एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

“ान एक ऐसा खजाना जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

hiian Standard ‘,

GUIDE TO GARMENT QUALITY

UDC 687’1 : 658’562 [ 026 ]

-\ . . I @ BIS 1989 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS t MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002 i December 1989 Price Group 3 Apparels ( ‘Ready-Made Garments ) Sectional Committee, TDC 43

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards on 29 May 1989, after the draft finalized by the Apparels ( Ready-Made Garments ) Sectional Committee had been approved by the Division Council.

In the manufacture of garments, a number of factors affect the quality of the ultimate product and hence these must be given due importance.

A group of standards has been identified at each stage in production of garments which are rele- vant to quality of materials and processes in use. The lists of standards are not exhaustive and should be taken as a guide only.

In the formulation of this standard,_ assistance has been derived from BS 6476 : 1984 ‘Guide to Garment Quality’ and relevant British Standards, issued by the British Standards Jnstitution, UK.

I8 12675:198!J Indian Standard GUIDETOGARMENTQUALITY

1 SCOPE 4.1.3 Grading, Pattern Cutting and Sample Making 1.1This standard provides a list of factors which guide at the various stages of garment Grading should be done in a logical sequence en- manufacturing from design to packaging, to suring that the original design concept is maintain- ensure final garment quality. ed. Patterns should be cut to ensure that garments are produced in conformity with the established 2 REFERENCE size schedules. Reference samples should be produced under conditions that are as close as IS No. Title possible to the factory production methods.

IS 12110: 1987 Glossary of terms used in 4.2 Lay Planning apparel industry While lay planning, following factors should be taken care of: 3 TERMINOLOGY a) Correct positioning of pattern pieces on 3.1 For the purpose of this standard, the defini- fabric grain; tions given in IS 12110 : 1987 shall apply. b) Inclusion of all required pattern pieces; 4 STAGES OF PRODUCTION c>Matching of checks and stripes; _ 4 Correct positioning of pattern pieces for 4.0 A garment has to pass through a number of fabrics or one side fabrics; These are: stages in its manufacturing process. e) No overlapping of pattern pieces; a) &e-production, namely, designing, selec- f) Availability of sufficient space between tion of materials, pattern making, sample parts for accurate cutting; making, etc; d Correct identification of all pieces by size, b) Lay planning; style, etc; c) Laying-up and under-pressing; h) Accurate marking; d) Make-up and under-pressing; 8 Inclusion and correct positioning of all e) Final pressing; notches and marks; and f) Final checking; k) Fully marking of parts within defined lay g) Labelling; and width. h) Packaging. 4.3 Laying-up, Cutting and Fusing These stages are intended to be as comprehensive as possible. However, individual processes or 4.3.1 Laying-up systems are likely to vary from factory to factory. The fabrics should be laid tension-free, straight and pattern matched. The procedures should be 4.1 Pre-production specified for dealing with the following, if neces- sary: 4.1.1 General a) One side materials, The design of garments and the materials to be b) Material batch preparation, used in the manufacture of garments should c) Fault marking and cutting out, and ensure the fitness for purpose and relate to the method of production. Materials and trimmings d) Correct positioning of notches and drill selected for production of garments should be holes. compatible with each other. 4.3.2 Cutting 4.1.2 Materials Inspection Knife profile and cutting speeds should be chec- ked. Cleanliness and safety aspects should be The materials should be inspected for defects ensured during cutting. and variations, checked for conformity to the related specification and properly labelled. 4.3.3 Fusing 4.1.2.1 List of Indian Standards on dress fabrics Regular checks should be carried out for the giving the manufacturing details and other duration, temperature and pressure ratings of the Eequirements are listed in Annex A. fusing press at least twice every day. The press 4.1.2.2 List of Indian Standards relevant to settings can be monitored by bofld strength material selection and other aspects of garments measurements on test samples byfusing at the are given in Annex B. same time as garment parts. Fused parts should 1 IS 12675:1989

be checked when cool and before any subsequent e) Cleanliness; operations, for colour and appearance changes f) Loose threads; as well as shrinkage. g) Correct matching of fabrics and trimmings; 4.4 Make-up and Under-Pressing h) Shade variation; The equipment, operations and materials which j) Correct fitting and alignment of closures; require adequate attention for proper make-up and and pressing of garments are as given below: k) Correct placing of labels. a) Sewing machines, cleanliness and settings; 4.6.1 A reference sample and complete specifica- b) Needles size, type and condition; tion of garment should be available at the ins- pection point which should have proper lighting c) Stitch density and thread tension; conditions. As far as possible, all garments d) Sewing thread material, count, colour and should be checked. However, if 100 percent shade; inspection level is not possible, Indian Standards e) Seam allowance; and listed in Annex D may be followed for choosing the appropriate sampling plan. f) Under-pressing conditions. 4.7 Labelling 4.4.1 The Indian Standards listed in Annex C shall provide guidance on sewing and embroi- The garments should be properly labelled. The dery threads, seams and stitches. size and details of labels should be as agreed to between the buyer and the seller and as far as 4.5 Final Pressing possible, should indicate the following: Regular checks should be carried out at least a) Fibre content; twice every day for functioning of press and b) After-care instructions; In case of final dry cleanliness of press covers. c) Size designation; heat pressing, checks mentioned in 4.3.3 should be carried out twice every day. The garments d) Manufacturer’s name, initials or trade- should be checked for the following defects mark; and before as well as after all stages of pressing: e) Country of origin. a) Unwanted creases/impressions/stainmarks, and NOTE -In case of garments made from combi- nation of fabrics, the fibre content shall be deter- b) Pressing glaze. mined on the basis of predominent fabric(s). Waddings used in the garments shall not be consi- 4.5.1 The garments after pressing should be dry dered for declaring the fibre content. operations; for example, before subsequent 4.7.1 The list of Indian Standards given in Annex buttoning, bagging, etc. E shall be helpful in proper designing of labels.

4.6 Final Checking 4.8 Packaging The following aspects of garments should be checked at this stage: Garment packages should be so designed as to ensure that the garments reach the consumer in a) Correct dimensions; satisfactory condition. The details such as, b) f;;l~ pucker, seam allowance and sewing method of garment folding, number of garments , in each package, type of outer packing, etc, should be worked out in consultation with the c) Garment symmetry; buyer. Standards listed in Annex F shall guide d) Pressing/fusing defects; in proper packaging of garments. ANNEX A ( Chse 4.1.2.1 ) LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON DRESS FABRICS

A-l , SYNTHETIC AND BLENDED FABRICS-MILL-MADE IS No. Title IS No. Xitle

IS 177 : 1977 Cotton drills ( third revision ) IS 187 : 1978 Cotton long cloth ( second revision ) - IS 178 : 1984 Cotton ( second revision ) Is 188 _ 1g80 yt;oy ( second revi- IS 182 : 1983 Mazri ( second revision ) IS 186 : 1983 Cotton mulls ( second revi- IS 1144 : 1980 Cotton Cellular ‘shirting sion ) ( second revision )

2

9 IS 12675 : 1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 1423 : 1985 Cotton gaberdine ( second IS 1098 : 1957 Handloom cotton , revision ) bleached IS 1544 : 1973 Cotton ( first revision ) IS 1100 : 1978 Handloom cotton crepe (first revision ) IS 2422 : 1985 Dyed, cotton fabric, water IS llol . I981 Handloom cotton cellular repellent, for capes and rain shirting ( first revision ) coats ( second revision ) IS 1241 : 1958 Handloom cotton calico, blea- IS 7085 : 1986 blend suitings ched or dyed ( market varieties ) ( first revi- IS 1242 : 1975 Handloom cotton shirting sion) ( first revision ) IS 7104 : 1973 Poplin ( market variety ) IS 1243 : 1981 Handloom cotton coating IS7851:1975 Wash and wear requirements ( jirst revision ) of cotton fabrics IS 1244 : 1958 Handloom cotton longcloth, bleached or dyed IS 9517 : 1986 Polyester blend suiting ( market varieties ) ( _first revi- IS 1245 : 19% Handloom sion ) cloth, grey wi?iripes “jama Handloom cotton IS 11248 : 1985 Polyester blend suitings for Is 1247 : 1g87 uniforms ( first revision ) Handloom cotton drills ( first IS 11815 : 1986 Poyester blend shirting for Is 1451 ’ 1g7g uniforms revision ) IS 1556 : 1960 Handloom cotton poplin, blea- IS 11881 : 1986 Men’s and boys’ woven - ched or dyed ing made of man-made fibres and their blends. IS 1579 : 1979 Handloom cotton ( jirst revision ) A-2 FABRICS, MILL MADE IS 1937 : 1987 Handloom cotton bleeding Madras ( jirst revision ) IS No. IS 3771 : 1966 Long cloth: cotton , bleached IS 673 : 1987 Cloth, woollen, twill, dyed ( third revision ) IS 3772 : 1966 Mazri, cotton khadi, scoured IS 677 : 1974 Cloth, drab mixture, woollen IS 3778 : 1966 Dungri cloth, cotton khadi, water-resistant ( second revi- bleached sion ) IS 8797 : 1978 Handloom cotton fabric for IS 679 : 1974 Great coat cloth, woollen school uniforms dyed ( second revision ) A-4 WOOL FABRICS, HANDLOOM AND IS 680 : 1974 Cloth, ( second revi- I(HADI sion ) IS 2319 : 1987 ( third revision ) IS No. Title IS 8331 : 1976 Angola shirting IS 891 : 1957 Handloom worsted shirting IS 8689 : 1978 Worsted gaberdine, khaki, Is 1265 . 1g58 drab Handloom woollen IS 12131 : 1987 All wool worsted suitings IS 1266 : 1958 Handloom serge IS 12132 : 1987 Polyester wool blended worst- IS 4372 : 1967 Cloth, twill, dyed, wool khadi ed suitings A-5 AND VISCOSE FABRICS, A-3 COTTON FABRICS, HANDLOOM AND HANDLOOM KHADI IS No. Title IS No. Title IS 1584 : 1960 Handloom silk shirting, loom- IS 749 : 1978 Handloom cotton dungri cloth state ( jirst revision ) IS 1686 : 1960 Handloom silk bush shirt Is 751 : 1984 Handloom cotton mazri cloth cloth, loomstate ( loom state ) ( jirst revision ) IS 1687 : 1960 Handloom silk KORA ( loom- IS 752 : 1984 Handloom cotton , state ) cloth bleached ( first revision ) IS 2159 : 1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre IS 755 : 1984 Handloom cotton MALMAL shirting, bleached, dted, striped ( first revision ) or checked 3 fs 12675:1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 2160: 1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre IS 3357 : 1965 Matka silk fabric coating, bleached, dyed, striped IS 3358 . 1g65 or checked . Dupion silk fabric 1s 3359 : 1965 Silk coating

ANNEX B ( Clause 4.1.2.2 ) LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS RELEVANT TO MATERIALS SELECTlON AND GARMENT PRODUCTION

B-l FABRIC CONSTRUCTION AND IS No. Title PERFORMANCE IS 762 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile 4 Physical Methods of Tests materials to hypochlorite blea- ching ( first revision ) IS No. Title IS 764 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile materials to washing: Test 3 IS 1954 : 1969 Length and width of fabrics ( second revision ) ( first revision ) IS 765 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile IS 1963 : 1981 Threads per unit length in materials to washing: Test 4 woven fabrics ( second revision ) ( second revision ) IS 1964: 1981 Weight per square metre and IS 766 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile weight per linear metre of materials to rubbing ( first fabrics ( first revision ) revision ) IS 1969 : 1985 Breaking load and elongation IS 767 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile of woven textile fabrics materials to water ( jrst revi- ( second revision ) sion ) IS 4125 : 1987 Glossary of terms pertaining IS 971 : 1983 Colour fastness of textile to defects in fabrics ( first materials to perspiration ( first revision ) revision ) IS 4681 : 1981 Recovery from creasing of IS 974 : 1984 Colour fastness of textile textile fabrics by measuring materials to steaming under the angle of recovery (jht atmospheric pressure ( second revision ) revision ) IS 6489 : 1971 Tear strength of woven textile IS 1299 : 1984 Dimensional changes on wash- fabrics by Elmendorf tester ing of fabrics woven from IS 6490 : 1971 Stiffness of fabrics-cantilever rayon and synthetic fibres test ( second revision ) IS 10971 : 1984 Pilling resistance of fabrics IS 1383 : 1977 Scouring loss in grey and finished cotton textile mate- b) Chemical Methods of Tests rials ( jirst revision ) 1s 1390 : 1983 pH value of aqueous extracts of IS No. Title textile materials (first revision ) IS 9 : 1982 Dimensional changes of woven IS 1564 : 1988 Quantitative chemical analy- fabrics on washing near the sis of binary mixtures of cellu- boiling point ( second revision ) lose triacetate and certain other fibres ( first revision ) IS 686 : 1985 Colour fastness of textile materials to daylight ( jirst IS 1582 : 1968 Scouring loss in silk textile revision ) materials IS 687 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile IS 1889 Quantitative chemical analysis materials to washing: Test 1 of binary mixtures of regene- ( second revision ) rated cellulose fibres and cotton IS 688 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile materials to organic solvents Part 1 : 1976 Sodium zincate method (first ( j&t revision ) revision ) IS 689 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile Part 2 : 1976 Cadoxen solvent method materials to hot pressing ( first Part 3 : 1979 Formic acid-zinc 6hloride revision ) method

4 IS 12675 : 1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

Part 4 : 1979 Sulphuric acid method (first IS 3148 : 1983 Metallic slide fasteners, general revision ) purpose ( third revision ) ‘IS 2006 : 1978 Quantitative chemical analysis IS 3780 : 1966 Lining cloth, cotton khadi, of binary mixtures of protein dyed Ebres and certain other fibres IS 4084 : 1978 Eyelets and washers ( sail ) ( jirst revision ) ( first revision ) IS 2176 : 1962 Quantitative chemical analysis IS 4274 : 1981 Buckles ( first revision ) of binary mixtures of secon- IS 4829 : 1983 Plastic slide fasteners ( first dary cellulose acetate. and revision ) certain other fibres IS 6117 : 1977 Tapes, cotton ( first revision ) IS 2177 : 1962 Quantitative chemical analysis IS 6488 : 1987 Cotton webbing for personal of mixtures of cellulose triace- web equipment ( second revi- tate and secondary cellulose sion ) acetate fibres IS 6672 : 1972 Mercerized cotton .tapes for iS 2454 : 1985 Colour fastness of textile berets materials to artificial light IS 6726 : 1972 Interlinings for ( xenon lamp ) ( first revision ) IS 7284 : 1973 Coarse cotton webbings IS 2727 : 1964 Quantitative chemical analy- sis of binary mixture of manila IS 7298 : 1973 Cotton webbing, proofed and and fibres unproofed IS 2977 : 1964 Dimensional changes of woven IS 7426 : 1974 Special cotton webbings fabrics ( other than wool ) on IS 7776 : 1975 Silk webbing soaking in water IS 7777 : 1987 Cotton webbing, rolled edges IS 3361 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile ( first revision ) materials to washing: Test 2 IS 8302 : 1977 Braided tape for berets ( first revision ) IS 8894 : 1978 Cotton tapes for slide IS 3416 : 1982 Quantitative chemical analy- fasteners sis of mixtures of polyester IS 9675 : 1980 Woven cotton tapes, light, fibres with cotton or regene- medium and heavy qualities rated cellulose ( jkst revision ) IS 9686 : 1980 Elastic tape IS 3417 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile IS 10056 : 1982 Silk ( viscose rayon ) ribbon materials, ” . to. washing\ : Test 5 tape t. Jcrst revision ) IS 3421 : 1966 Quantitative chemical analy- B-3 GARMENT MEASUREMENTS AND sis of binarv mixtures of acry- SIZE DESIGNATION lit and certain other fibres IS No. Title IS 3561 : 1966 Dimensional changes on wash- ing of woven silk fabrics IS 6706 : 1972 Measurements for men’s shirts IS 4802 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile materials to dry-cleaning ( first IS 7050 : 1973 Measurements for men’s revision ) manila shirts IS 7213 : 1974 Measurements for men’s B-2 GARMENT ANCILLARIES trousers IS 10015 Size designation of clothes: Title IS No. Part 1 : 1981 Definitions and body measure- ment procedure IS 1099 : 1957 Handloom cotton lining cloth, dyed Part 2: 1981 Men’s and boys’ outerwear garments Handloom cloth IS 1102 : 1968 Part 3 : 1982 Women’s and girls’ outerwear ( jirst revision ) garments IS 1461 : 1984 Plastic buttons ( thermosett- Part 4 : 1982 Infants’ outerwear garments ing ) ( second revision ) Part 5 : 1983 Men’s and boys’ underwear, IS 1535 : 1979 Cotton lining cloth ( first revi- nightwear and shirts sion ) Part 6 : 1983 Women’s and girls’ under- IS 1720 : 1978 Cotton sewing threads ( second wear, nightwear, foundation revision ) garments and shirts Part 7 : 1982 Gloves IS 1803 : 1973 Cotton embroidery threads ( jirst revision ) Part 8 : 1983 Headwear

5 IS 12675 : 1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 10397 : 1987 Guide for sizing system for IS 11621 : 1986 Definitions and measure- clothes ( $rst rCvision ) ments of body dimensions for garment construction and anthropometric survey pur- poses

ANNEX C ( Clause 4.4.1 ) LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON SEWING THREADS, EMBROIDERY THREADS AND STITCHES

IS No. Title IS No. Title

&S 1720: 1978 Cotton sewing threads IS lo789 : 1983 Classification and termino- ( second revision ) logy of stitch types used in IS 1803 : 1973 Cotton embroidery threads seams ( jirst revision ) JS 11161 : 1985 Textiles-seam types-classi- fication and terminology

ANNEX D (Clause 4.6.1 ) LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON SAMPLING PLANS

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 1548 : 1981 Manual on basic principles of by count of defects (first lot sampling ( second revi- revision ) sion ) Part 2 : 1965 Inspection by variables for IS 2500 Sampling inspection tables : percent defective Part 1 : 1973 Inspection by attributes and

ANNEX E ( Clause 4.7.1 ) LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON LABELLING

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 4418 : 1967 Guide for care-labehing of IS 10194 : 1982 Guide for positioning of textiles for laundering and labels in garments dry-cleaning

ANNEX F ( CIause 4.8 ) LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON PACKAGING OF GARMENTS

IS No. Title

IS 4039 : 1975 Code for packaging of ready- made garments for export ( first revision )

I I Standard Mark I I The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The Standard Mark on products covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced to comply with the requirements of that standard under a well defined system of inspection, testing and quality control which is devised and supervised by BIS and operated by the pro- ducer. Standard marked products are also continuously checked by BIS for conformity to . that standard as a further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use of the Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards. I I

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BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standard3 Act, 1986 to promote harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods and attending to connected matters in the country.

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Revision of Indian Standards

Indian Standards are reviewed periodically and revised, when necessary and amendments, if any, are issued from time to time. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition. Comments on this Indian Standard may be sent to BIS giving the following reference:

Dot : No. TDC 43 ( 2471) ‘., 1. $1 Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

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