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SEPTEMBER 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

IN THE NEWS CHARMING INNS, REGIONAL CUISINE AND HISTORIC SITES Manhattan Touring New York’s Hudson Valley Park

LOCATED DIRECTLY OPPOSITE Carnegie Hall on 57th Street and just three blocks from the Four Seasons, its direct competitor, the new Park Hyatt New York opened on August 19. The 210-room property occupies the first 25 floors of a 90-story tower. Deluxe rooms are generous for Manhattan, ranging from 495 to 680 square feet, and feature stone floors, contemporary art and marble baths with walk-in rainfall showers. Amenities include an American grill, The Back Room at , and an indoor pool with underwater speakers that Hudson River, northern play music from Carnegie Westchester County, New York Hall. Personally, I enjoy the refined minimalism of the NEW YORK MAY BE A TEEMING METROPOLIS, BUT IT IS ALSO A GATEWAY TO THE TRANQUIL Park Hyatt aesthetic, and I am very much looking Hudson Valley, with its orchards, vineyards, fine restaurants and stately homes that have forward to a stay. afforded escape to some of the great names in American history — Rockefeller, Vanderbilt NEWYORK.PARK.HYATT.COM and Roosevelt among them. Nowadays, there are also several delightful that offer This Issue comfort and hospitality, if not always the last word in luxury. Best of the Hudson Valley Stretching 315 miles north from New York — stimulated in part by the farmers’ markets of New inns and hotels reflect the region’s renewal Harbor to its source in the Adirondacks, the Hudson — and the appeal of the river itself, Charms of Pantelleria saw its role as a trade artery magnified with the now cleansed of industrial pollution. ’s secret island opening of the Erie Canal in 1825. This connected Sailing in the Grenadines the river to the Great Lakes, ensuring that New e set off from Manhattan on a summer From St. Vincent to PSV York eclipsed Philadelphia as the largest city on the Wmorning and headed to Westchester County. ! Online This Month Eastern Seaboard. But the economic tide ebbed, I had long wanted to see Kykuit, the Rockefeller Read more about my travels in the Hudson Valley, including and during the 20th century, the Hudson Valley fell estate in Sleepy Hollow, not only for its architecture its historic houses; and also into decline. Fortunately, the past few years have and gardens but also for the art collection assembled about the best cooking school in Sicily and villa rentals on seen a tremendous renewal spurred by relatively over several generations that contains sculptures Mustique in the Grenadines. inexpensive real estate, a revived agricultural base by Picasso, Henry Moore and Alexander Calder.

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Bedford Post Inn Rockefeller estate PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

The area’s Rockefeller legacy also includes the for touring. No doubt the new restaurant will add GASTRONOMY Union Church of Pocantico Hills, with stained glass greatly to its appeal. windows by Chagall and Matisse, and the Stone Barns Restaurant Center for Food & Agriculture, a not-for-profit farm Standout rom Bedford, we drove northwest for an hour to that runs programs on sustainability. We also found Fthe town of Beacon. Part of the route ran close time to visit Sunnyside, the home of Washington JUST THREE MILES from to the Hudson, and we caught glimpses of the river the Bedford Post Inn, Irving, America’s first great literary success. The Inn at Pound Ridge flowing grandly between tree-crested hills. Beacon The Bedford Post Inn provides an ideal base by Jean-Georges presents once boasted a strong manufacturing economy, from which to visit this trove of sights. The property a splendid alternative for which left a legacy of substantial real estate. The garnered a deal of attention when it opened in fine dining — especially town’s turnaround began in 2003, when the Dia Art while the former’s main 2009 under the ownership of actor Richard Gere Foundation purchased a building where Nabisco restaurant is being and his wife, Carey Lowell. Meticulously restored, renovated. Superstar chef had once printed boxes for its cookies and crackers. the inn occupies a lovely colonial-style building Jean-Georges Vongerichten Dia:Beacon proved to be a draw for urbanites in surrounded by sloping lawns and well-maintained spotted an opportunity in search of affordable getaways, and the town is now gardens. The eight rooms are all done in understated the grand 1833 residence, crammed with shops, galleries and restaurants. and the property has country elegance, with contemporary furniture, dark been fully renovated and Developer Robert McAlpine realized the hardwood floors, small gas fireplaces and, in some restored, including its four potential in holdovers from the Industrial Age and cases, diminutive outside decks. Our bedroom was impressive fireplaces. purchased an old factory site. The opening of The on the small side, but the spacious bath featured a Lavish use of wood and Roundhouse at Beacon Falls in 2012 brought warm lighting create an deep claw-foot tub and a walk-in shower. exceptionally congenial superior accommodations to the town. The goal Downstairs, a cozy lounge serves as a combina- atmosphere. The menu is to offer 58 rooms; at present, 23 are open. To tion library, game room and early-evening gathering features seasonal farm- undertake the conversion, McAlpine turned to the spot. Having ordered a glass of wine, we opted to to-table cuisine with Rockwell Group, which has designed many of New sip it beside the lovely reflecting pool to enjoy the ingredients from the York’s leading restaurants, as well as a number of Hudson Valley and sunshine and to page through the glossies laid New whenever projects. out on a table by the fireplace nook. Guests also possible. A striking serving Our spacious room featured an impressive wall have access to yoga classes in the handsome barn of little beets arranged of windows, which looked out to a waterfall on Fish- immediately adjacent to the inn. like big strawberries on kill Creek. The contemporary décor was simple but a swirl of Greek yogurt I had been looking forward to dinner at the flavored with olive oil and stylish, with dark hardwood floors, cream walls and new restaurant, Campagna, which is under the balsamic vinegar was clean-lined furniture. Regrettably, the black slate direction of chef Michael White, whose Manhattan outstanding. And an entrée bath was straight out of the boutique hotel hand- restaurants, Marea and Ai Fiori, I rate very highly. of a Berkshire pork chop book. I dislike black baths, as they seem somehow wrapped in prosciutto Alas, its opening had been delayed. However, we antithetical to the demands of cleanliness, as well with mushrooms and sage did not suffer in The Barn, a more casual venue, in a white wine sauce as providing a gloomy setting in which to begin the where the pea tortellini and nicely roasted chicken could not have been more day. However, the walk-in shower was effective. were more than adequate. The Bedford Post Inn delicious or satisfying. I had no reservations about the lounge, 2EM, is an enjoyable place to stay in an ideal location THEINNATPOUNDRIDGE.COM which is well-stocked and well-tended. Observing

2 hideaway report | September 2014 the barkeep’s dexterity with a muddler, I ordered and reassembled it. This now contains the inn’s 10 an Old Fashioned — rye whiskey, club soda and a rooms. Done in a refined country style, they have sugar cube soaked in bitters — which was expertly white walls accented by dark beams, wood floors prepared and served. If you are looking for lighter and a pleasing mix of antique and contemporary fare, the lounge’s menu will appeal. However, we furniture. Period objects such as old timepieces opted for the main restaurant, Swift, where chef and naive art add to the charm. As far as we were Brandon Collins offers a locavore menu. The design is concerned, the lack of a phone and a television only industrial, with concrete floors and exposed factory added to our room’s appeal. (Wi-Fi is available.) The beams illuminated by pendant lamps with large bath was clad in light gray-and-white marble tile. Edison bulbs. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook Some rooms have tubs, others, walk-in showers. A MILITARY HISTORY the falls. Both the food and the service proved lovely four-bedroom house is also available for small outstanding. I loved my starter of tuna sashimi with groups and families. Visiting noodles, which was followed by superb lamb loin An upstairs lounge in the main barn is decorated West Point and belly accompanied by asparagus. with Americana. Outside, rows of Adirondack chairs THE HUDSON RIVER was face the lawn and the horse paddock below. A full list a crucial frontier during espite the insistence of our car’s GPS, the of spa treatments and wellness programs is available, the Revolutionary War. D next day I declined to follow major highways plus yoga classes and a variety of equestrian options. Gen. George Washington and stayed on local roads. At Poughkeepsie, an The delicious food prepared by chef Matt Gaines had a giant chain old railroad bridge has been transformed into a enhanced the enjoyment of our stay. While there is stretched across the river at its deepest, and one of popular footbridge, the Walkway, which spans the no menu, Gaines will tailor meals to individual tastes its narrowest, points in Hudson — more than a mile wide at this point — or requirements with advance notice. I tucked into hopes of thwarting British and affords magnificent views from a height of the imaginative beet raviolis — with thin slices of naval tra!c. The strategic 212 feet. Twenty-three miles north of Beacon, we beet making up the “ravioli” — and superb Copper location became known as West Point, and since came to Hyde Park, site of the Home of Franklin D. River salmon. 1802, it has been home to Roosevelt and Presidential Library & Museum, the the United States Military Vanderbilt Mansion and The Culinary Institute of e pressed on to the town of Hudson, a once- Academy. Our visit was America, with three restaurants open to the public. dispiriting place that is now the poster child all too brief. We opted for W a one-hour tour, but next Set on a gentle hill amid 236 verdant acres, the for renewal. Though 120 miles from the Atlantic, time, we will certainly stay Old Stone Farm comprises a cluster of buildings Hudson became an active whaling port after longer. Even so, we saw surrounded by mown lawns bordered by split-rail Nantucket seamen, fearful of retribution following the Cadet Chapel, with the fences. The property is the realization of a dream the Revolutionary War, relocated there for safety. The largest church organ in held by Sherry and Stu Kahn. (Since her husband’s small town became a major center for shipbuilding the world; the legendary parade grounds; and the untimely death in 2012, Sherry has been carrying on and whale oil processing. Today, the main artery, West Point Museum, filled the business alone.) After restoring an original barn Warren Street, displays a wealth of restored Greek with artifacts from every from the 1700s, which now serves as a yoga studio, Revival and Federalist townhouses, plus numerous conflict in U.S. history. the Kahns found a similar barn nearby, took it apart antique shops and galleries. The Hudson River School WESTPOINTTOURS.COM

An upstairs lounge in the main barn is decorated with Americana. Outside, rows of Adirondack chairs face “ the lawn and the horse paddock below. Old Stone Farm PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

September 2014 | hideaway report 3 of painting began in Hudson, and the homes of its two progenitors, Thomas Cole and Frederic Church, sit almost directly across the river from one another. The Mount Merino Manor bed-and-breakfast was originally built in 1870 for Frederic Church’s personal physician. A lovely Victorian property, it sits on 100 wooded acres. The owners, Rita and Patrick Birmingham, visited B&Bs around the country, and the results of their research are self- evident. The seven spacious rooms are appointed with period furniture, fireplaces, wood floors and Oriental carpets. The size of the baths surprised me, putting those in many luxury properties to Mount Merino Manor PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER shame. Ours came with a whirlpool tub, though not all rooms have them, so be sure to check when making a reservation. Tables set with crystal, china Henry’s, the restaurant and fresh flowers make the dining room an elegant at Buttermilk Falls Inn, has place for breakfast. In the late afternoon, following “ a casual atmosphere and a our return from our explorations, we would sit in lively bar. One of my favorite the chairs on the wraparound porch to gaze over the dishes was the starter of tranquil lawn. Mount Merino Manor doesn’t pretend plump crab cakes with jicama slaw and a zesty to the higher levels of luxury, but is a gracious and lemon aioli. welcoming place.

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER rossing the Hudson on the Rip Van Winkle C Bridge, we headed south. Our itinerary had three priorities: the Storm King Art Center for Hudson Valley Wine and Spirits outdoor sculpture; the United States Military REGARDLESS OF WHERE I TRAVEL, I try to visit little-known vineyards and obscure Academy at West Point; and a couple of wineries distilleries in hopes of discovering something remarkable. Here are the places in the along the well-delineated Shawangunk Wine Trail. Hudson Valley that I most enjoyed. The Buttermilk Falls Inn is set on 75 acres Millbrook Vineyards & Winery East of the Hudson, Millbrook reminded me of the in the village of Milton. The property dates to the smaller California operations that I like to visit, with unrushed tasting and personable sta" 1700s, but it has been updated and expanded. My willing to answer questions. Topping my list were the Hunt Country Red blend, a heady mix of Cabernet Franc and Merlot with a dash of Pinot Noir; the 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay, initial impressions left me underwhelmed. The with crisp citrus and apple, plus a slight whi" of tropical fruit; and the 2013 Dry Riesling entryway to the reception area needed painting, Proprietor’s Special Reserve, with hints of honey and orange. 26 WING ROAD, MILLBROOK. TEL. and the desk staff were cordial but distracted. (845) 677-8383. MILLBROOKWINE.COM However, my spirits lifted when we arrived at our Harvest Spirits Farm Distillery North of Hudson, also on the east bank of the river, this neat, Craftsman-style cottage. Notwithstanding its distillery is an o"shoot of Golden Harvest Farms, a well-known apple orchard. A member of designation as an “inn,” Buttermilk offers a variety the third generation, Derek Grout has taken the business in another direction. His primary product is Core Vodka, made solely from apples, but there is also Black Raspberry Core of room options, with 10 accommodations in the Vodka and the terrific Cornelius Applejack, made from twice-distilled hard cider and aged main building and eight freestanding structures. in barrels. Tours and tastings Saturday and Sunday, 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. 3074 U.S. ROUTE 9, Our cottage came with contemporary furniture, VALATIE. TEL. (518) 253-5917. HARVESTSPIRITS.COM a peaked ceiling in the living room, a stone fireplace, Tuthilltown Spirits On the west bank of the river, I visited Tuthilltown Spirits, which a dining area overlooking the Hudson, and a fully I knew of from a gift of its Hudson Single Malt. The tasting room is pleasant, and across equipped kitchen. The two bedrooms were small the road, Tuthill House at the Mill serves homemade American cuisine. In addition to the but comfortable. The single bath was ample in size single malt, the complex and smooth Four Grain Bourbon is worth a try. 14 GRIST MILL LANE, GARDINER. TEL. (845) 255-1527. TUTHILLTOWN.COM with a walk-in shower.

Whitecliff Vineyard I had been most interested to visit this winery for the more than 20 Henry’s, the inn’s restaurant, can lay claim to grape varieties it uses. My top choices: the Awosting White, a seductive blend of Seyval being a true farm-to-table establishment. Housed Blanc and Vignoles with notes of pear and apple; and the distinguished Riesling, which on the second floor of a barn-like structure, it has a has won awards at the prestigious San Francisco International Wine Competition. 331 casual atmosphere and a lively bar. My favorite dishes MCKINSTRY ROAD, GARDINER. TEL. (845) 255-4613. WHITECLIFFWINE.COM were the starter of plump crab cakes with jicama

4 hideaway report | September 2014 slaw and a zesty lemon aioli, and veal ravioli topped The 18-room marble baths are lavish to the point of opulence. with a generous helping of shredded veal. Elsewhere Gilded Age property The Supper Room is under the supervision of on the grounds, you can visit Millstone Farm, which “ su"ered from talented chef Geoffroy Deconinck and enjoys a provides much of the restaurant’s produce in season years of neglect considerable reputation, resulting in a pleasant mix and includes a livestock barn and a quaint Victorian and decline before of guests and locals at dinner. We greatly enjoyed cottage that houses an aviary with chickens for being spectacularly Hudson Valley foie gras with cherry marmalade, fresh eggs. A spa provides a comprehensive menu reborn with an and scallops with braised endive, followed by Long of treatments, plus an infinity-edge pool. investment of Island duck breast with red quinoa, and a lobster Our final destination lay 36 miles to the south- $30 million and bouillabaisse with halibut and mussels. west, 35 minutes’ drive from West Point. I first a renovation Diversions on the estate’s 150 acres include recommended Glenmere in 2011, and have long that lasted for tennis, croquet, a heated outdoor pool and a anticipated a return visit. The 18-room Gilded Age several years. magnificent full-service spa. Glenmere remains the property suffered from years of neglect and decline Hudson Valley’s true class act. H before being spectacularly reborn with an invest- ment of $30 million and a renovation that lasted for several years. Driving up the hill, we were greeted by the striking sight of a Tuscan villa with pale-blue shutters set amid a classic Northeastern landscape. Formal gardens are strewn with vine-covered arbors, and a broad lawn spills down to Glenmere Lake. Inside, a handful of sparkling public rooms surrounds a sunny cortile. Guest rooms, which range widely from cozy ground-floor nooks to a grand suite with a fireplace in its bath, all feature writing desks, reading chairs and fireplaces with gas log fires. The Terrace at Glenmere PHOTO BY KIM SARGENT

HOTELS AT A GLANCE NEW YORK VERMONT Bedford Post Inn 89 MAP REF. 1 0 25 50 MI LIKE Cozy, self-contained atmosphere; excellent food. DISLIKE Signage to reception is unclear; lack of a swimming pool. GOOD TO KNOW An outstanding restaurant, The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean- 0 25 50 KM Georges, is a five-minute drive away. QUEEN DELUXE, $495; KING DELUXE WITH TERRACE, $650. 954 OLD POST ROAD, BEDFORD, NY 10506. TEL. (914) 234-7800. BEDFORDPOSTINN.COM ALBANY The Roundhouse at Beacon Falls 89 MAP REF. 2 LIKE Pleasant, courteous and helpful sta". DISLIKE Parking is inconveniently located. GOOD TO KNOW The front desk sta" are a mine of useful information about Dia:Beacon, the best restaurants and shopping. ROUNDHOUSE DELUXE WITH VIEW, $260; ONE-BED SUITE, $400. 2 EAST MAIN STREET, BEACON, NY MASSACHUSETTS 12508. TEL. (845) 765-8369. ROUNDHOUSEBEACON.COM HUDSON

r Old Stone Farm A90 MAP REF. 3 4 LIKE Feeling of deep rural tranquility; excellent food. DISLIKE Bedroom windows can be opened, but lack screens. GOOD TO KNOW Sherry Kahn is often about, and it is well worth chatting with her for insights about the area. ROOM, FROM $299; LOFT ROOM, FROM $399; TWO-ROOM SUITE, FROM $599. 2434 dson Rive RHINECLIFF STATE ROUTE 9G, STAATSBURG, NY 12580. TEL. (845) 876-3977. OLDSTONEFARM.ORG " u H 3 Mount Merino Manor 88 MAP REF. 4 FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT HOME LIKE Secluded setting close to the town of Hudson. DISLIKE The property needs more than one copy of the daily papers in the morning! GOOD TO KNOW The breakfast sta" can help make reservations 5 POUGHKEEPSIE for your day’s activities. BLUE MOUNTAIN VIEW ROOM, FROM $295. 4317 STATE ROUTE 23, HUDSON, NY 12534. TEL. (518) 828-5583. MOUNTMERINOMANOR.COM BEACON CONNECTICUT STORM KING 2 ART CENTER 88 MAP REF. 5 Buttermilk Falls Inn WEST POINT LIKE Beautiful parklike setting. DISLIKE The approach o" Route 9 needs better signage; the stretch CHESTER from Route 9 to North Road goes through an unsightly commercial area (but this in no way impinges 6 BEDFORD on the inn itself). GOOD TO KNOW There is more to this property than first meets the eye. INN ROOM, 1 FROM $300; COTTAGE OR HOUSE, FROM $500. 220 NORTH ROAD, MILTON, NY 12547. TEL. (845) 795-1310. STONE BARNS CENTER KYKUIT BUTTERMILKFALLSINN.COM WHITE PLAINS SUNNYSIDE Glenmere A95 MAP REF. 6 LIKE Exquisite grounds; magnificent spa; superlative cuisine. DISLIKE Very little, aside from the considerable expense. GOOD TO KNOW The 65-mile drive from Midtown Manhattan takes around NEW JERSEY L ONG ISLAND one hour and 20 minutes when the tra!c is moderate. SUPERIOR ROOM, FROM $985; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $1,460. 634 PINE HILL ROAD, CHESTER, NY 10918. TEL. (845) 469-1900. GLENMEREMANSION.COM NEW YORK CITY

preceding a rating, denotes an o!cially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more A information on all of our recommended hotels in New York. ATLANTIC OCEAN

September 2014 | hideaway report 5 DISTINCTIVE SMALL HOTELS AND PROFOUND TRANQUILITY Relaxing on the Chic Italian Island of Pantelleria

Donnafugata on Pantelleria

BASED IN MARSALA in southwestern Sicily, the highly respected vineyard Donnafugata established clublevante’s infinity pool a winery on Pantelleria in PHOTO BY MATTEO PANNO 1989 with the intention of maintaining the island’s MANY OF MY FAVORITE ISLANDS ARE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN — CAPRI, MALLORCA, ancient wine-producing traditions. It specializes Corsica, Paros, Hydra — and every year, I’ve tried to add another to my life list. But until in quality wines from the now, one Italian island has eluded me for reasons of timing, accessibility and a lack Zibibbo grape — also known as Muscat of of comfortable hotels. Craggy and volcanic Pantelleria lies about 60 miles southwest Alexandria — which is the of Sicily and 40 miles east of Tunisia. island’s most character- istic variety. The 168 acres The name comes from an Italianized version on the island this past spring. (June and September of vines include parcels of its Arab moniker, Bint al-Riyah, or “the daughter are the nicest months to visit the island, which is all over the island and of the winds.” Known for its capers and wines, it an increasingly fashionable destination for Italian are cultivated by hand, as the grapes grow on has an area of 32 square miles, about the size of holidaymakers during July and August.) “There are terraces or in tiny fields. Manhattan. Pantelleria played a cameo role in World few places in the world that empty your head and The best of Donnafugata’s War II when Mussolini fortified its only port and make you slow down better than Pantelleria,” a Pantellerian wines is the built an airport to create what he envisaged as an friend in Rome assured me. sweet, amber-colored Ben Ryè, a Passito di Italian Gibraltar, or a sentry post on the eastern Pantelleria DOP, produced Mediterranean. Ultimately, Allied troops invaded e took the 45-minute flight from Sicily on a with Zibibbo grapes it in June 1943. Wsunny morning. As the plane banked prior that have been dried to Having learned that there are now several to landing, I was surprised to see that the island concentrate their sugar pleasant places to stay, I decided to spend a week was so green, having half-expected it to be as sun- and aromas. Elegant and complex, it is a superbly blasted as much of Tunisia is. After picking up our contemplative wine. Other tiny Fiat rental car, we navigated a series of narrow fine Pantellerian wines lanes lined by stone walls ornamented by blazes of from Donnafugata include bougainvillea before arriving at the Zubebi . Kabir, a lighter Moscato di Pantelleria, a good Surrounded by five acres of gardens, the hotel is a dessert wine; and Lighea, compound of dammusi, or traditional Pantellerian a white table wine made houses, with domed white roofs designed to keep from Zibibbo grapes that them cool in the baking summer sun and dry during is deliciously crisp and winter rains. well-structured. Visits are by appointment only. Initially, we found our room to be rather spare, CONTRADA KHAMMA FUORI but it grew on us as we relaxed. Simply furnished 6. TEL. (39) 3356-242-563. Ornate loggia at Zubebi resort but comfortable, the space had whitewashed walls, a DONNAFUGATA.IT © EQUINOXE / PHOTO BY MASSIMO FAZIO tile floor and a North African aesthetic, with pierced

6 hideaway report | September 2014 metal lanterns and colorful textiles that had been blossomed into a feathery flower. These yield the imported from Tunisia. Exploring the property, Travel Tips fat, seed-filled fruit known as a caper berry. we came across a crescent-shaped swimming pool Bring an Italian After our wine tasting, we enjoyed a fine seaside with lovely views over the surrounding countryside dictionary, as English lunch of fritto misto at La Vela, the only waterside and the distant sea. The pool, we later learned, is is not widely spoken on restaurant on the island. We then headed to our Pantelleria outside of a considerable luxury on an island where water is the hotels. next port of call, the 15-room clublevante. Located delivered by tanker truck and hence is very expensive. near the village of Kamma on the eastern coast of Reconfirm your flights to Like Capri, Pantelleria has only tiny, rocky beaches, and from the island, since the island, the hotel is set amid lush gardens. Built so a pool is a necessity in summer. Etihad, which runs the of lava blocks, the rooms here are also styled as The eight-room property is run with friendly puddle-jumper service from dammusi, but they’re more comfortably furnished Palermo, changes its and easygoing service. For anyone coming from a schedule often. Do not plan than those at Zubebi, with better lighting, including major city, it takes a day or two of relaxation to cease a tight onward transfer. well-lit baths, and pleasant private porches fitted being impatient with the local languor. At least this ETIHAD.COM with white cotton curtains. This property is also was the warning offered by a couple from Geneva on The most reliable closer to the sea, and a daylong circumnavigation our first night as we enjoyed a bottle of crisp white rental-car company on of the island by powerboat, an expedition efficiently Pantelleria is Policardo. The Pantellerian wine, lolling on cushions to watch the arranged by the hotel, was a highlight of the trip. employees speak English, spectacular sunset. Later, we savored an excellent and rates are reasonable. The hotel’s infinity pool is spectacular, and tennis dinner of pasta with lobster, followed by tuna steaks Book well in advance. courts are available, but there is no gym or spa, with roasted tomatoes and boiled potatoes dressed POLICARDO.IT and no room service. Although the hotel only offers with local olive oil and potent Pantellerian oregano.

he following morning, the front desk staff Palermo Hotel Update T arranged for us to visit a caper farm — PALERMO IS AN ANCHOVY OF A CITY: a strongly flavored place that most travelers Pantellerian capers are reputedly the best in the either love or loathe. Its setting on a mountain-backed bay is magnificent; it has some superb architecture and museums, plus a thriving food scene. But the roads are chaotic world — as well as one of the island’s most respected and the atmosphere can be overpowering. To accentuate the positive: In a world where the wineries, the local outpost of the Sicilian winemaker streets of most great cities are now lined with the same brand names to be found at home, Donnafugata. Growing on a terraced hillside, the Palermo rewards curious travelers with a rich, charming and idiosyncratic local culture. capers looked rather like nasturtiums, with silvery (If you do nothing else, visit the open-air Ballarò street market, which provides one of the green, coin-shaped leaves. The small flower buds are gastronomic spectacles of the Mediterranean.) The other problem with Palermo is that its two foremost hotels — the Grand Hotel Et gathered by hand, then salted and pickled. Here and Des Palmes, where Wagner finished his opera “Parsifal,” and the Grand Hotel Villa Igiea there, a bud had escaped one of the workers who — are o" their games these days. The Des Palmes lacks the grandeur and impeccable harvest the caper terraces each morning and had service I enjoyed many years ago, while the Villa Igiea has had several owners of late and needs some updating, plus better-trained sta". However, for anyone in the mood for an intimate, historic and rather o"beat experi- ITALY Adriatic Sea ence, I can suggest the 11 apartments at Butera 28. This handsome 18th-century palazzo CORSICA overlooking the sea in the Kalsa district was once the home of Giulio Fabrizio Tomasi di () Lampedusa, the prince who was the model for the main character in “The Leopard,” the ROME novel written by his great-grandson, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. Today, it is run by the author’s adoptive grandson and his Austrian wife, and they have succeeded in creating a place of great charm and considerable comfort. NAPLES For those who prefer a more conventional hotel, the 32-room Hotel Principe di

R ISLE H

Villafranca, in a leafy residential neighborhood, is a pleasant place to spend a night, 1 OF SARDINIA CAPRI provided you book a Junior Suite. Its personality comes from a collection of contemporary Sicilian art. Whether these pieces are to your taste or not, the parquet-floored accommo- dations are spacious, quiet and comfortable, and the sta" are attentive and well-informed. T yrrhenian Sea HOTELS AT A GLANCE

Butera 28 89 PALERMO LIKE Charming hosts; comfortable quarters; excellent location. DISLIKE Very little, but it is important to appreciate that this is not a conventional five-star property; no hotel services are provided. GOOD TO IN MT. ETNA M KNOW The Duchess of Palma is an excellent Sicilian cook and o"ers cooking lessons. APARTMENT (WITH 5 4 SICILY KITCHEN), $240. VIA BUTERA 28, 90133 PALERMO. TEL. (39) 333-316-5432. BUTERA28.IT Strait of Sicily Hotel Principe di Villafranca 88 PANTELLERIA LIKE The spacious, comfortable, well-decorated rooms; the Sicilian-made Ortigia amenities in the TUNISIA bath. DISLIKE The mediocre breakfast bu"et. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel’s guided walking tour Mediterranean Sea of Palermo is excellent. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $310. VIA LIBERTA 39, 90139 PALERMO. TEL. (39) 091-611-8523. 0 60 120 MI PRINCIPEDIVILLAFRANCA.IT 0 60 120 KM MALTA

September 2014 | hideaway report 7 light lunches and dinner on request, our favorite restaurant on Pantelleria, Osteria il Principe e il Pirata, is close by.

ur final stop was the clumsily named 46-room OPantelleria Dream resort, also near Kamma. Though not a true luxury hotel, the property provided the most comfortable accommodations we found during our visit. Our vaulted whitewashed room was Salad at Ristorante La Vela, and fettucine at Osteria il Principe et il Pirata PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER simply furnished with a table and chairs and a chest Palermo and Pantelleria Restaurants of drawers, but there were good reading lamps by the comfortable bed and effective air-conditioning. ALTHOUGH SICILIAN CUISINE displays many similarities to that of the Italian main- The grounds are handsomely landscaped with cactus, land, Spanish, Greek and Arab influences are often apparent. Here are the restaurants that we most enjoyed on our recent trip. palm trees and bougainvillea, and the infinity pool affords glorious views over the countryside and Trattoria Piccolo Napoli A local favorite since it opened in 1951, this family-run seafood restaurant is mostly supplied by the owners’ two fishing boats — which explains the spec- the sea. The hotel’s restaurant is also good, and we tacular freshness of the catch-of-the-day menu. Start with pasta with sardine sauce, a enjoyed a delicious meal of spaghetti with locally Palermitan specialty, then enjoy some locally caught prawns or a grilled fish. PIAZZETTA caught shrimp and crushed Sicilian pistachios, MULINO A VENTO 4, PALERMO. TEL. (39) 091-320431. followed by grilled squid. Osteria dei Vespri Located in the heart of Palermo, this attractive, well-run restaurant Deeply rested, we left Pantelleria with real with cordial service is widely considered to serve the best food in the city. An outstanding regret. Essentially, it is a place in which to sleep late, recent dinner began with tastings of several pastas, including cuttlefish ravioli stu"ed with potatoes and Sicilian sa"ron, and main courses of roasted tuna with basil mayonnaise, and to linger over indulgent lunches and to spend long pork saltimbocca. PIAZZA CROCE DEI VESPRI 6, PALERMO. TEL. (39) 091-617-1631. OSTERIADEIVESPRI.IT hours in a hammock with a book. And it certainly

Ristorante La Vela The only seaside restaurant in Pantelleria, this popular trattoria is provides an effective antidote to a stimulating but better at lunch than at dinner. Start with a pasta Pantesca, with a sauce of tomatoes, tiring tour on the Italian mainland. H onions, garlic and capers, then choose a grilled fish — the tuna, swordfish and amber- ! Read online about our tour of caper farms on Pantelleria. jack are reliably excellent — with an insalata Pantesca composed of potatoes, tomatoes, capers and olives dressed in olive oil and fresh oregano. Reservations are essential; service is often slow, so relax and enjoy the views. CONTRADA SCAURI SCALO, PANTELLERIA. TEL. (39) 0923-916566.

Altamarea This pretty and fashionable restaurant has a large terrace with wonderful views. Start with the swordfish caponata, then try the delicious seafood couscous, which reflects the Arab occupation of Sicily from the ninth to the 11th centuries. VIA SCAURI PORTO 5, PANTELLERIA. TEL. (39) 0923-918115. ALTAMAREAPANTELLERIA.IT

Osteria il Principe et il Pirata This stylish restaurant has a lovely walled terrace, which a"ords fine views while protecting diners from the wind. The owner takes great pride in sourcing the best of Pantellerian and Sicilian produce for dishes such as fritto misto; spaghetti with bottarga (dried pressed tuna eggs), pistachios and lemon; and

grilled squid or stewed octopus. The wine not to miss is the superb SP68 Bianco 2012 Pool at Djenna PHOTO BY GIOVANNI MATTA from Sicily’s Occhipinti vineyards. LOCALITA PUNTA KARACE, PANTELLERIA. TEL. (39) 0923-691108. PRINCIPEEPIRATA.IT Villa Rental on Pantelleria ON A RETURN VISIT to Pantelleria, we will probably HOTELS AT A GLANCE rent a house. Toward the end of our stay, I toured several Zubebi 87 of the properties represented by the island’s best villa- LIKE The outstanding restaurant; the spectacular horizon pool; the lovely views over the surrounding rental agent, the charming English-speaking Giovanni countryside. DISLIKE The rather austere bedrooms, which lack reading lights. GOOD TO KNOW From Matta. A native of Palermo, Matta lived in New York June to September, the hotel often requires a seven-night stay. ROOM, FROM $235. CONTRADA ZUBEBI, 91017 PANTELLERIA. TEL. (39) 0923-913653. ZUBEBI.COM for five years before returning to Italy and starting his agency, Pantelleria Collection. His properties include clublevante 88 “Djenna,” a five-bedroom, five-bath villa in 12 acres of LIKE Stunning sea views; gorgeous gardens; friendly service. DISLIKE Lack of room service and a proper restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW Osteria il Principe et il Pirata, my favorite restaurant on Pantelleria, gardens with spectacular sea views. Amenities include is just a few minutes away by car. DELUXE DAMMUSO, $360. C.DA VICOLO FARAGLIONE 42, 91017 PANTELLERIA. a woodburning pizza oven, a gourmet kitchen, a home TEL. (39) 0923-915246. CLUBLEVANTE.COM movie theater, a sophisticated music system, a wine Pantelleria Dream 89 cellar and a 40-foot infinity pool. The services of a LIKE The beautiful infinity pool; the private terraces of the individual dammusi (traditional houses). private cook can be arranged. Rates on request. A seven- DISLIKE Slow housekeeping service. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel books up far in advance. SUPERIOR night stay is generally required during high season. ROOM, FROM $250 (JUNE-SEPTEMBER). LOCALITA TACINO, 91017 PANTELLERIA. TEL. (39) 0923-915670. PANTELLERIADREAMRESORT.IT Highly recommended. PANTELLERIACOLLECTION.COM

8 hideaway report | September 2014 DESERTED BEACHES, PRISTINE REEFS AND LOBSTER DINNERS Sailing in the St. Vincent Grenadines

Tobago Cays

Canouan Reinvented

THE GREEN AND PEACEFUL island of Canouan is surrounded by dazzling beaches, while the east coast is protected by a lagoon and barrier reef that would I HAVE LONG CONSIDERED THE GRENADINES TO BE AMONG THE MOST BEGUILING PLACES be sensational in French on earth. The idyllic chain of Caribbean islands and cays that stretches some 50 miles north Polynesia. But despite the amazing natural to south from St. Vincent to Grenada is the very definition of a tropical paradise, with steep, beauty — the view from jungle-covered slopes; azure water; and sugar-sand beaches. the hilltop 13th hole of the Jim Fazio-designed golf Just as enchanting is the relative remoteness with a book and an iPod, or lounging in a thatched- course is truly sublime — of the region. There are no large cruise ships, and roofed beach bar. hotel companies, including many of the smaller islands are uninhabited. The So it was with great pleasure that I recently Rosewood and Ra#es, have found the island snorkeling and diving are superb, as are other accepted a longstanding invitation to join friends challenging. Now it is the water-based activities. But time in the Grenadines on a sailing trip there. Our vessel was a striking, turn of Dermot Desmond, can just as happily be spent lolling in the shade blue-hulled 70-foot Hylas called Destiny. The 10-day billionaire financier and trip took us from St. Vincent to Bequia, Mustique, owner of in Barbados. The Pink Canouan, the Tobago Cays, Petit St. Vincent and Sands Club comprises finally, Union Island. just 26 suites and six Built in 2011, Destiny proved to be a sleek but villas; a marina for roomy yacht, ideally suited to cruising these waters superyachts is under in style and comfort. Fully air-conditioned, she construction; and the island’s runway has boasts an 18-foot beam, three guest cabins with been lengthened to 7-foot ceilings, showers with strong water pressure, accommodate large a spacious main salon with an 8-foot ceiling, and private jets (which allows Destiny, our crewed 70-foot Hylas an ample galley from which the chef/first mate those unfortunate guests without their own wings to Megan Puorro produced reliably excellent meals. be flown in from Barbados There are three televisions on board, as well as by Citation CJ3). The music systems and Wi-Fi. The cockpit features resort is expected to twin steering positions and a dining table that is debut in time for the 2014-15 winter season. properly shaded by a Bimini top. A deck shower Desmond’s aim is to make was a welcome amenity for our frequent swims off this the most luxurious the stern, as were the stairs that led directly into property in the Caribbean. PHOTOS BY BILLY BLACK the water and also to the dinghy that ferried us He may even succeed. PINKSANDSCLUB.COM

DESTINY to and from shore.

September 2014 | hideaway report 9 In addition to their natural beauty and delightful After dropping anchor, we boarded the dinghy climate, the Grenadines provide one of the world’s and I spent the next two hours snorkeling over finest sailing grounds. (In the Caribbean, only the hard corals and stretches of sea fans, gawking Virgin Islands offer a semblance of competition.) at parrotfish, harlequin bass, butterflyfish and The easterly trades, which blow steadily in the sergeant majors, their vibrant colors glistening range of 15 to 20 knots, ensure that yachts traveling in the sunlight. At one point, a pair of sea turtles from north to south always have the wind on their paddled serenely past. beams, a boat’s best point of sail. People leery of After two nights at Bequia, we set sail for big-water cruising will no doubt be comforted by the Yacht Charter nearby Mustique, the private 1,400-acre island fact that land is never out of sight. Yet the passages known for its publicity-shy clientele. There, we MY FRIENDS chartered between islands are interesting enough to satisfy Destiny from the highly moored at Basil’s, perhaps the most famous bar in even the most serious salt. And given the dozens reputable firm of Ed the Caribbean, having previously arranged to dine of islands and the plethora of anchorages, you can Hamilton & Co. in Maine. at The Cotton House, my recommended hotel on sail as much or as little as you wish. Although scarcely a the island. Despite its reputation for extravagant billionaire’s superyacht, she After boarding Destiny on the dramatic volcanic nonetheless accommodated parties, especially on New Year’s Eve, Basil’s was island of St. Vincent, we set sail for Bequia, a two- six of us in considerable quiet and uncrowded that evening. There are few hour reach away. As we entered its picturesque comfort. And the cost of more pleasant places to sit with a cocktail, watching horseshoe-shaped harbor, Port Elizabeth, our $3,250 per person per week the pelicans plummet into a turquoise sea. represented excellent value captain, Gunnar Williamson, reassured me that for money. However, the The Veranda Restaurant at The Cotton House the island’s unique boatbuilding culture — which Andrew Harper Travel O!ce is housed in an airy colonial-style structure, includes the construction of sizeable twin-masted habitually works with our surrounded by lush gardens. At a table on a second- schooners — continues to flourish. Bequia has long travel partner All Yachts floor porch, we enjoyed a sublime eggplant soup, been favored by the world’s yachtsmen, especially Worldwide, which has followed by flavorful lobster risotto, a perfectly an extensive range of those on circumnavigations of the world, and both motor and sailing seasoned fish curry and a tender rack of lamb. The Australian and New Zealand flags, as well as those vessels in the Caribbean service was as efficient as the surroundings were from the major European countries, are frequently and around the globe. enchanting, and the only disappointment came to be seen fluttering in the balmy breeze. ALLYACHTSWORLDWIDE.COM when we ordered wine, as our first two choices

The Cotton House ST. VINCENT AND THE ST. GRENADINES VINCENT

0 10 MI

0 10 KM KINGSTOWN

PORT ELIZABETH BEQUIA

S SORHAINDO CELIA BY PHOTO 1 Caribbean Sea BASIL’S BAR MUSTIQUE HOTELS AT A GLANCE

The Cotton House A94 MAP REF. 1 LIKE Elegant architecture and stylish interior, which embody the atmosphere and glamour of the old West Indies; excellent restaurant. DISLIKE The island exists primarily for the benefit of its homeowners, and in high season, hotel guests can feel like second-class citizens. GOOD TO KNOW Despite its royal and celebrity clientele, Mustique is a relaxed place, little given either to formality or to conspicuous displays of wealth. In part, this is because the press and paparazzi are rigorously excluded. COTTAGE, FROM $750; CANOUAN SUITE, $1,100 (BREAKFAST AND DINNER INCLUDED). TEL. (784) 456-4777. COTTONHOUSE.NET GRENADINE

MAYREAU TOBAGO Petit St. Vincent A96 MAP REF. 2 CAYS LIKE Glorious natural setting; unsurpassed sense of privacy; the new spa. DISLIKE The lack of Wi-Fi in Chatham Bay the cottages. The new beach bar and beachside restaurant are open to the public, which may not prove to be a good idea. GOOD TO KNOW The Tobago Cays, with some of the best snorkeling in the Caribbean, are UNION ISLAND within easy reach. COTTAGE, FROM $1,400 (ALL MEALS INCLUDED). TEL. (954) 963-7401. PETITSTVINCENT.COM PETIT ST. 2 VINCENT A preceding a rating, denotes an o!cially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more GRENADA information on all of our recommended hotels in the Caribbean.

10 hideaway report | September 2014 were unavailable. A charge frequently leveled at PRIVATE ISLAND BEACH BLISS The Cotton House is that in high season, the hotel becomes little more than a clubhouse for the island’s homeowners. There may be some truth to this assertion, but in shoulder seasons, it remains one of the most charming and atmospheric properties in the entire Caribbean. As much as we enjoyed our time on Mustique, we felt strangely elated to return to sea. Personally, I find that life aboard a comfortable yacht quickly becomes addictive. Our next destination was the island of Canouan. Gunnar anchored off a deserted Petit St. Vincent: A New Beginning white-sand cove and, once again, I spent a happy SEMARK MATTHEW BY PHOTO morning hanging above the coral, watching schools THE PRIVATE ISLAND OF PETIT ST. VINCENT in the Grenadines has long been a of blue tang and triggerfish. Returning to Destiny, favorite retreat of mine. For 30 years, I have relished its isolation, the sense of being some- we found that Megan had laid out a seafood where that feels close to the end of the world. And the lack of air-conditioning, televisions and telephones in the cottages never fazed me at all. Over three decades, the resort has lunch beneath the Bimini. As we feasted, I was been perennially popular with Hideaway Report subscribers. And the property prospered overwhelmed by a deep sense of relaxation and under the enlightened ownership of Haze Richardson and his wife, Lynn. profound well-being. Alas, tragedy struck in 2008, when Haze died in a swimming accident in Costa Rica. Spending two days and nights in the nearby Lynn continued to run Petit St. Vincent until the fall of 2010, at which point she sold the property to Phil Stephenson and Robin Paterson. The new owners have since invested Tobago Cays only reinforced this mood. The cays are heavily, initiating an overhaul of the resort that has included a complete refurbishment a group of five uninhabited islets — Petit Rameau, of the cottages. (These were originally designed in 1966 by Swedish architect Arne Petit Bateau, Baradol, Petit Tabac and Jamesby — Hasselqvist, responsible for many of the original homes on Mustique.) I had heard good surrounded by a marine park. It is a favorite spot things about the makeover, but wanted to see the results for myself. So I checked into PSV at the end of my recent sailing trip. What I found was reassuring: The resort has been for boaters, especially in the January-February high upgraded in a variety of ways — among the less noticeable improvements are a new water season, and several yachts were moored around the desalination plant and the complete rewiring of all buildings — but its distinctive character islands when we arrived. But we never felt crowded has not been lost. or uncomfortable. I was fortunate to be allocated Cottage No. 1, atop The Little Blu" above the northern We set out one morning to Petit Tabac, an shore of the island. On arrival, I immediately noted the new air conditioner, a Bose iPod dock and a Nespresso co"ee machine. As it had been a while since my last visit, I wanted atoll that enjoyed a moment of fame as the desert to see if the unique system of room service worked as well as it had in the past, so I hoisted island in the movie “Pirates of the Caribbean: the yellow signal flag. My order was picked up by a butler within five minutes, and a half- The Curse of the Black Pearl.” As Gunnar hauled hour later, we were savoring lobster tempura accompanied by a fine Pouilly-Fuissé, while our dinghy onto the beach, he announced: “This gazing over the serene expanse of Conch Bay. The new owners have installed a yoga pavilion, plus a hilltop spa with four open-air is your island for today!” And so it proved. Much treatment rooms and a lengthy menu of treatments. So later that afternoon, I indulged in of our time was spent lounging in the shade of a superb 90-minute massage administered by a highly competent Balinese therapist. As coconut palms, but later in the afternoon, we made well as this welcome addition to the resort, a new beach bar and an open-air restaurant our way to the nearby Baradal Turtle Sanctuary, have been constructed, which give guests alternatives to the elevated main pavilion dining where, for an hour or so, we swam with the wild room. Both are open to the public, so sailors now have the chance to visit PSV without impinging on the jealously guarded privacy of resort guests. green and hawksbill sea turtles that congregate During a dinner of locally caught fish and seafood in the main restaurant, I learned there. In the evening, the dinghy ferried us across that a new wine cellar houses more than 3,000 bottles, including an extensive range of to another deserted islet, where Gunnar had Champagnes. While I appreciate such enhancements, I am also grateful that the resort arranged a beach dinner of grilled lobster and has stayed so much the same. I was delighted that I could still take long walks up Marni Hill or along the circular beach without encountering another soul. And I still relished the sautéed conch. utter lack of noise or interruption in my cottage, which was conducive to a profound sense After two nights in the cays, we sailed down of repose. Longtime devotees need have no fears: PSV is just as wonderful as ever. to Union Island for a sojourn at Chatham Bay, an engaging and nearly empty harbor. On our final The Results Are In! evening, I strolled along the beach, stopping for a OUR ANNUAL READER SURVEY has been tallied, and your top rum punch at a tumbledown shack where reggae 20 U.S. and international hideaways are revealed in the enclosed music played out of scratchy speakers. The scene 2014 special edition. Also listed are your favorite city hotels and food was utterly removed from my habitual environment READERS’ and wine, beach, golf, spa and family , plus safari lodges. of luxury hotels and resorts. But sometimes, the At AndrewHarper.com, you will also find your top cruise lines CHOICE and photos of all of the award-winning properties. # simple experiences prove the most indelible. H

September 2014 | hideaway report 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD Wherever Next?

AMONG THE QUESTIONS I am asked most frequently is, “Where is the next new place?” The other day, while contemplating my travel schedule for the coming winter, I found myself struggling to arrive at an answer. Twenty years ago, countries joined the

My favorite view over the verdant acres at Old Stone Farm PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER world of luxury travel with convenient regularity. But when I spin the globe in From My Notebook my o!ce nowadays, “new” places are conspicuous by Singita Boulders Far-flung India Biking Through Farm-to-Table their absence. Last year, Renewed Some of the most exotic Chile’s Winelands Set amid 113 acres of the Republic of the Congo looked promising, thanks to For the past 17 years, areas of India have few Since 1966, Butterfield & meadows and wood- a new jungle gorilla camp. Singita Boulders Lodge in hotels and inadequate Robinson has dominated lands, Winvian is an But the Ebola outbreak has South Africa’s Sabi Sand infrastructure. Now, the market in upscale idiosyncratic retreat The Ultimate Travelling in Connecticut’s idyllic scuppered that trip for a Game Reserve has been biking trips. The company while. And with 20,000- one of my favorite wildlife Camp provides luxurious Litchfield Hills. Aside established its reputation on foot mountains and a lodges. Its design was tented accommodations from the 18th-century quiet country roads in Italy fascinating Andean culture, inspired by the weathered in Ladakh, high in the main house, the property and France, but nowadays, Bolivia is a place that ought boulders that litter the Himalayas; in Awadh, a comprises 18 extraordi- it o"ers journeys around the to have Harper-worthy banks of the Sand River. region of central northern nary architect-designed globe. An itinerary for 2015 properties. But none has The interior featured an India that includes cottages, including one that caught my eye features yet appeared. So in 2015, imaginative mix of natural Dudhwa National Park that contains the fuselage the wine country of central it looks as though I shall materials — petrified (home to rhino and tiger); of a Sikorsky Coast Guard Chile, and includes a stay at have to content myself trees, slabs of local stone and in Nagaland, a tribal helicopter! Innovations with countries that I have — and contemporary area in the far northeast the spectacular new Viña Vik at the whimsical resort previously visited, but which African art. Now, in a renowned for its colorful hotel and vineyard (a sister include a new farm, with have rapidly burgeoning major refurbishment, festivals and abundant property to my recom- a two-acre vegetable and profiles: Mozambique, for guest areas, including birdlife. The individually mended Estancia Vik and berry garden, four green- instance, with its 1,500 the new Copper Bar, have designed tents come with Playa Vik in Uruguay). I am houses and an apiary, plus miles of glorious white- been brought closer to en suite baths and dedi- strongly tempted to make a sheep, pigs and 60 hens. sand beaches. And maybe the river, and two of the cated butlers. Camps can reservation, though I trust Henceforth, chef Chris Cambodia, where there 12 suites have been rede- be customized for private that the route goes through, Eddy’s organic kitchen are new hotels, as well as a signed for families. groups of friends. rather than over, the Andes! should be well-supplied. new Aqua riverboat on the Mekong. And I suppose I’d TRAVEL OFFICE NEWS better head back to French Polynesia to check out Villa Vacations Around the World the fancy new resort on MANY SUBSCRIBERS SEEM UNAWARE that the Andrew Harper Travel O!ce has expertise not just with hotels, but Tetiaroa, the island once also with many of the world’s finest villas. Our dedicated team vets each property we choose to represent, ensuring that owned by Marlon Brando. only homes of the highest quality are included in our program. Over the years, we have discovered extraordinary houses Not too shabby, I guess. in locations as varied as Fiji, France, , Napa, Los Cabos, the Caribbean, Kenya and Nantucket. If you are planning a family getaway over the winter holidays, villas in top destinations such as Beaver Creek and Hawaii still have availability. Or if you’re traveling with just your spouse, a one-bedroom apartment in the Cheval Phoenix House in London might be just the thing. To see our complete list of vetted villas, go to andrewharper.com and click on “Hotels & Destinations.” Website Exclusives Contact the Travel O!ce at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. Find additional stories, my trip videos and more photography Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated throughout the month on our travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for website. Look for these symbols in all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX print and visit The Hideaway Report 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing o!ces. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, at AndrewHarper.com. Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; # = slideshow " = video WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. = additional stories Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Photo Editor Kelly Zhu Illustrator Melissa Colson ! This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

2014 READERS’ CHOICE AndrewHarper.com RESULTS FROM OUR 33RD ANNUAL SURVEY OF SOPHISTICATED TRAVELERS Your Favorite Hideaways, Hotels and Resorts

Eden Rock - St Barths PHOTO BY PIERRE CARREAU PIERRE BY PHOTO EACH YEAR, I ASK YOU TO TELL ME ABOUT YOUR RECENT TRIPS. I AM PLEASED TO SAY THAT Hideaway Report readers remain an exceptionally well-traveled group. This year’s respondents vacation an average of 38 days a year, and over a third say they plan to travel more in the 2014 coming 12 months. Your favorite foreign destinations continue to be Italy, France and the READERS’ , while farther afield, Australia and New Zealand are enduringly popular. CHOICE For the purposes of this survey, hideaways your affection, with The Goring in London having Hideaways ...... 2 are defined as hotels and resorts with 50 or fewer risen rapidly in the rankings. City Hotels...... 2 rooms. Amazingly, California’s Post Ranch Inn, I also asked you to tell me about your favorite Safari Lodges a sanctuary set high on the cliffs of Big Sur, was cruise lines, and this list can be found on our website, and Camps...... 3 voted No. 1 U.S. hideaway for the seventh year in a along with lavish slideshows of your favorite U.S. Family Resorts...... 3 row. Other familiar names include the Auberge du and international hideaways and your preferred Golf Resorts...... 3 Soleil, San Ysidro Ranch and Twin Farms. However, beach resorts worldwide. Beach Resorts ...... 4 Spa Resorts...... 4 your favorite international hideaway, Eden Rock - St I am very grateful that so many of you found Food and Wine Resorts. .4 Barths, did not appear in last year’s Top 20. the time to participate, as well as to submit helpful Your favorite beach resort is the Four Seasons comments. And I was delighted to learn that,  More Online Hualalai on the Big Island of Hawaii. This should overwhelmingly, you like the new format and Visit AndrewHarper.com be no surprise, given your consistent endorsement expanded content of the Harper Collection and to learn about readers’ of Four Seasons properties worldwide. In the city approve of our new website. Please continue to 10 favorite cruise lines and to view full-screen slide- hotels category, no fewer than seven of the Top send suggestions to [email protected]. shows of hideaways and 20 belong to the Toronto-based group. However, Safe travels! beach resorts. smaller, more traditional city hotels still command

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. AH-RC-SEP14 City Hotels

The Lowell 1 New York City, New York Four Seasons George V 2 Paris, France The Peninsula Chicago 3 Chicago, Illinois Four Seasons New York 4 New York City, New York Four Seasons Chicago Post Ranch Inn 5 Chicago, Illinois

PHOTO BY KODIAK GREENWOOD Four Seasons Boston 6 Boston, Massachusetts Hideaways (hotels and resorts with fewer than 50 rooms) 7 Buenos Aires, Argentina UNITED STATES  View a slideshow online. INTERNATIONAL  View a slideshow online. Four Seasons Firenze 8 Florence, Italy Post Ranch Inn Eden Rock - St Barths 1 Big Sur, California 1 St. Jean Bay, St. Barths The Goring 9 London, England Auberge du Soleil Otahuna Lodge 2 Rutherford, California 2 Christchurch, New Zealand Claridge’s 10 London, England Amangiri Singita Boulders Lodge 3 Canyon Point, Utah 3 Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa Four Seasons at Sultanahmet 11 Istanbul, San Ysidro Ranch Relais Borgo Santo Pietro 4 Montecito, California 4 Chiusdino, Italy Hotel Bristol 12 Vienna, Twin Farms Grand Hotel à Villa Feltrinelli 5 Barnard, Vermont 5 Gargnano, Italy Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 13 Bangkok, Thailand Amangani &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge 6 Jackson, Wyoming 6 Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 14 Hong Kong, China The Inn at Little Washington Il Pellicano 7 Washington, Virginia 7 Porto Ercole, Italy Four Seasons at the Bosphorus 15 Istanbul, Turkey The Lodge at Sea Island Amandari 8 St. Simons Island, Georgia 8 Bali, Indonesia Le Bristol 16 Paris, France Calistoga Ranch Huka Lodge 9 Calistoga, California 9 Taupo, New Zealand The Peninsula Beverly Hills 17 Los Angeles, California Triple Creek Ranch Ballyfin Demesne 10 Darby, Montana 10 County Laois, The Stafford 18 London, England Blantyre Château Eza 11 Lenox, Massachusetts 11 Eze Village, France Crosby Street Hotel 19 New York City, New York Lake Placid Lodge La Casa Que Canta 12 Lake Placid, New York 12 Zihuatanejo, Mexico Hôtel Plaza Athénée New York 20 New York City, New York Little Palm Island Four Seasons Tented Camp 13 Little Torch Key, Florida 13 Golden Triangle Chiang Rai, Thailand Rancho Valencia Hôtel San Régis 14 Rancho Santa Fe, California 14 Paris, France The Wauwinet Buckland Manor 15 Nantucket, Massachusetts 15 Worcestershire, England • • • Jenny Lake Lodge Blanket Bay 16 Moose, Wyoming 16 Glenorchy, New Zealand Amangiri was outstanding Hidden Pond Southern Ocean Lodge in every way. The level of service, 17 Kennebunkport, Maine 17 Kangaroo Island, Australia overall design, setting and The Point Gravetye Manor “ activities are so extraordinary Saranac Lake, New York Sussex, England 18 18 that anything else pales in Poetry Inn Hôtel de l’Abbaye comparison. 19 Napa, California 19 Paris, France Ocean House The Meridian Club 20 Watch Hill, Rhode Island 20 Pine Cay, Turks and Caicos

2 hideaway report | 2014 READER SURVEY RESULTS  For help with reservations, contact our Travel Office at (800) 375-4685. Safari Lodges and Camps Family Resorts

&Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge The Cloister at Sea Island 8 Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania 1 Sea Island, Georgia Sanctuary Chief’s Camp Four Seasons Hualalai 9 Okavango Delta, Botswana 2 Ka`upulehu-Kona, Hawaii Zarafa Camp Four Seasons at Wailea 10 Chobe National Park, Botswana 3 Maui, Hawaii Singita Sasakwa Lodge Blackberry Farm 11 Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania 4 Walland, Tennessee Singita Lebombo Lodge Mauna Kea Beach Hotel 12 Kruger National Park, South Africa 5 Kohala Coast, Hawaii Singita Boulders Lodge Abu Camp The Sanctuary Hotel PHOTO COURTESY OF SINGITA 13 Okavango Delta, Botswana 6 Kiawah Island, South Carolina Singita Boulders Lodge Zulu Camp at Shambala Private Caneel Bay 1 Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 14 Game Reserve South Africa 7 St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands Jack’s Camp Aman-i-Khas Calistoga Ranch 2 Kalahari Desert, Botswana 15 Ranthambore National Park, India 8 Calistoga, California Mombo Camp and Little Mombo Sanctuary Olonana Four Seasons Punta Mita 3 Camp Okavango Delta, Botswana 16 Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya 9 Punta Mita, Mexico Singita Ebony Lodge Sirikoi Lodge Four Seasons at Peninsula 4 Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 17 Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya 10 Papagayo Guanacaste, Costa Rica Royal Malewane The Oberoi Vanyavilas Enchantment Resort 5 Kruger National Park, South Africa 18 Rajasthan, India 11 Sedona, Arizona Singita Mara River Tented Camp Tswalu Kalahari Four Seasons The Biltmore 6 Serengeti National Park, Tanzania 19 Kalahari Desert, South Africa 12 Santa Barbara, California Londolozi Kings Pool Camp Wequassett 7 Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 20 Chobe National Park, Botswana 13 Chatham, Massachusetts Otahuna Lodge 14 Christchurch, New Zealand Golf Resorts Stein Eriksen Lodge 15 Deer Valley, Utah Four Seasons at Troon North 8 Scottsdale, Arizona The Resort at Paws Up 16 Greenough, Montana Four Seasons at Wailea 9 Maui, Hawaii The Resort at Pelican Hill 17 Newport Coast, California Mauna Kea Beach Hotel 10 Kohala Coast, Hawaii 18 Cong, Ireland The Boulders 11 Carefree, Arizona Grace Bay Club 19 Providenciales, Turks and Caicos The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs 12 Matauri Bay, New Zealand Ocean House The Lodge at Pebble Beach 20 Watch Hill, Rhode Island The Inn at Spanish Bay PHOTO BY JOANN DOST 13 Pebble Beach, California The Lodge at Pebble Beach The Lodge at Torrey Pines 1 Pebble Beach, California 14 San Diego, California Four Seasons Hualalai Turnberry Resort 2 Ka`upulehu-Kona, Hawaii 15 Ayrshire, • • • The Sanctuary Hotel Ashford Castle 3 Kiawah Island, South Carolina 16 Cong, Ireland The Cloister made for a Four Seasons Punta Mita Dromoland Castle wonderful family vacation. 4 Punta Mita, Mexico 17 Newmarket-on-Fergus, Ireland I took 16 people there for my One&Only Palmilla Wequassett “ 70th birthday, including eight 5 San José del Cabo, Mexico 18 Chatham, Massachusetts grandchildren. There was The Resort at Pelican Hill Old Course Hotel something for everyone. 6 Newport Coast, California 19 St. Andrews, Scotland Four Seasons The Lodge Sandy Lane 7 at Koele Lanai City, Hawaii 20 St. James, Barbados

 Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information about all of our recommended hotels. 2014 READER SURVEY RESULTS | hideaway report 3 Beach Resorts  View a slideshow online. Spa Resorts

The Cloister at Sea Island Canyon Ranch Tucson 8 Sea Island, Georgia 1 Tucson, Arizona One&Only Ocean Club Miraval 9 Paradise Island, Bahamas 2 Tucson, Arizona Rosewood Little Dix Bay Auberge du Soleil 10 Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands 3 Rutherford, California The Meridian Club The Cloister at Sea Island 11 Pine Cay, Turks and Caicos 4 Sea Island, Georgia Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa Esperanza 12 Riviera Maya, Mexico 5 Cabo San Lucas, Mexico Four Seasons Hualalai Esperanza Four Seasons Hualalai PHOTO BY JOHN DEMELLO 13 Cabo San Lucas, Mexico 6 Ka`upulehu-Kona, Hawaii Four Seasons Hualalai Las Ventanas al Paraíso Sanctuary Camelback Mountain 1 Ka`upulehu-Kona, Hawaii 14 San José del Cabo, Mexico 7 Paradise Valley, Arizona Cap Juluca Little Palm Island Amangani 2 Maundays Bay, Anguilla 15 Little Torch Key, Florida 8 Jackson, Wyoming Mauna Kea Beach Hotel Montage Laguna Beach Amangiri 3 Kohala Coast, Hawaii 16 Laguna Beach, California 9 Canyon Point, Utah Caneel Bay Peter Island Resort and Spa Enchantment Resort 4 St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands 17 British Virgin Islands 10 Sedona, Arizona Four Seasons Punta Mita Rosewood Jumby Bay Blackberry Farm 5 Punta Mita, Mexico 18 Antigua 11 Walland, Tennessee Four Seasons at Wailea The Ritz-Carlton, Naples Cal-a-Vie 6 Maui, Hawaii 19 Naples, Florida 12 Vista, California Amankila Lake Austin Spa Resort 7 Honolulu, Hawaii 20 Bali, Indonesia 13 Austin, Texas Montage Laguna Beach 14 Laguna Beach, California Food and Wine Resorts Cap Juluca 15 Maundays Bay, Anguilla Blackberry Farm The Inn at Little Washington Las Ventanas al Paraíso 8 Washington, Virginia 16 San José del Cabo, Mexico Bernardus Lodge Amandari 9 Carmel Valley, California 17 Bali, Indonesia Ballyfin Demesne Bernardus Lodge 10 County Laois, Ireland 18 Carmel Valley, California Blantyre Four Seasons Punta Mita 11 Lenox, Massachusetts 19 Punta Mita, Mexico Le Château Les Crayères Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 12 Reims, France 20 Bangkok, Thailand Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat PHOTO BY BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY 13 Saint-Jean Cap-Ferrat, France Blackberry Farm Post Ranch Inn 1 Walland, Tennessee 14 Big Sur, California Auberge du Soleil Relais Borgo Santo Pietro • • • 2 Rutherford, California 15 Chiusdino, Italy Meadowood Château de Bagnols Auberge du Soleil has truly 3 St. Helena, California 16 Bagnols, France excellent service. The concierge Twin Farms Château du Sureau 4 Barnard, Vermont 17 Oakhurst, California provided us with a day’s itinerary “ touring the vineyards with a Calistoga Ranch San Ysidro Ranch 5 Calistoga, California 18 Montecito, California private driver at very short notice. Otahuna Lodge Bardessono 6 Christchurch, New Zealand 19 Yountville, California Farmhouse Inn Gidleigh Park 7 Forestville, California 20 Devon, England

4 hideaway report | 2014 READER SURVEY RESULTS  For help with reservations, contact our Travel Office at (800) 375-4685.