; 216" d Knee-length chemise of black lace re-embroidered in chenille with . d satin bows down the front '',.;. __. d- 1963 : Costume Institute Collection :'; ~£ X'.. b>7- _"«3-o •;'. Gift of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman \ d. :;d ,.-..:"•"•,:... '

32 Shift of black organza vdth bias fabric strips and black -•''' ostrich feather shafts applied all over • "w_ "*t a ^ Gift of-. Baronne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris ;: ' .\^3: f-.'r" _.••;. .

..74 Calf-length tunic dress of black silk with woven diamond design, '-. r r r-" pailletted and embroidered- ' "^- •'d :-(d;d;:;v; : d.^-d. fr.'X'.&i: 1960s v : ; d' ^d:^-Lent by Mrs.,Leonard Rblzer, New York-. -r - V::v:- ^>-^^v;y.-:...::v-f^W>:.-,.';:,:

' 170, "Baby Doll" dress.with overdress of black lace with ruffles at hem, - and shoulder straps of black satin ribbon • _•„ "*-, : 1QS7 ..Gift of Mrs. T. Reed Vreeland, New York • #7 3. 3 O ?3'

149 "Baby Doll" dress of brown lace "-' 1955 d dd Gift of mnie Parais Livings ten, New York f9']3 SJ-/ 37 Short dress of chocolate brown lace appliqued in brown beads, sequins, and deeper brown ostrich feathers circa 1955 Lent by Senora de Rosenblat, .Malaga

*iV ~,' •«"« ? r- 218 "Mini-dress in black rose pattern lace with hi?-length 19&5 Costume Institute Collection _.:£._ 7. 53- f<*£> Gift of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman

139 "Baby Doll" tent dress of string-colored lace with wide "d" ruffle at hem of - . 1957 Lent by Senora de Csborne,' r-'adrid

21 Short sheath entirely covered with black sequins ''-' circa 1964 Gift of Mrs. Nathan C_Tming3, Mew York ,* n% ;-). / 62 Shcri evening coac of cerise sarin with cisso r'cuncs al hem area 1963 GtfC of Mrs. William Randolph Li_««— !r 132 I + b£ 139 "Baby-Doll" tent dress of string- colored lace with wide ruffle at hem of skirt 1957

MRS. NATHAN CUMMINGS, NEW YORK 21 Short shift dress entirely covered with black sequins circa 1964 /f?$> '?• t 62 Short evening of cerise satin with deep flounce at hem circa 1963 Gift of Mrs. William Randolph Hearst. Jr. SENORA DE ROSENBLAT, MALAGA 37 Short dress of chocolate brown lace appliqued in brown beads, sequins, and deeper brown ostrich feathers circa 1955

MOLLIE PARNIS, NEW YORK 149 "Baby Doll" evening dress of brown lace 1965 /? 73 •>£"?-/ 164 Short straight tunic evening dress ot black lace with pink moire band on bodice and six flounces at hem 1957-58 Gift of Countess Cristina Brandolini d'Adda

BARONNE PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD, PARIS 38 Bolero of beige net and slubbed silk with short and elongated left side ,.-. „, , 1950 /f 73.3/A 203 Bolero of garnet velveteen with passementerie and jet beading 1946-47 cjz b4--'?»5 Gift of Mrs. Jean Sinclair Tailer MUS_E DU COST0ME DE LA VILLE DE PARIS DE MUS_E CANAVALET, PARIS 122 Jacket of black velvet embroidered in black jet 1945 Gift of Mme. Leclerc 194 Long full skirt of black tatfeta with putty velvet jacket 1946 Ci. £y. J-/- '.2-7^ Gift of Mrs. John Chambers Hughes 124 Jacket of black faille with inset of black pailletted velvet 1949 Gift of The Hon. Mrs. Reginald Fellowes 125 Jacket of dark red velvet with lace trim 1950 Gift of The Hon. Mrs. Reginald Fellowes

BROOKLYN MUSEUM, NEW YORK 12 Short jacket of natural linen embroidered with gold braid and paillettes circa 1950

243 Flamenco dancer's dress of white cotton with emerald green coin dots, trinroed with wide white cotton lace, and accessories

• *•' contemporary.design ...-.-..•,-.•„. Lent by Lola Flores (Senora de Gonzales), Madrid 204 - Evening dress of yellow silk gazar with uneven hem :. circa 1967 -vw •'.Costume Institute Collection **^\'<&^^|^^^J5^';;^a^tjr*!i •.-... |...'-;•": G.ift. of Mrs. Claus Von Biilow •: ;d-d •'""-.'"''' -^ • \ - V - : v >;;' •- d 78 Evening dress of deep royal blue eyelet embroidered gazar 1957 Lent by Mr.e. Rita Kaegi, Zurich .d 93 . Day of white silk with black polka dotsd - : - d •" ••• .d "' 1968 .•;:, .Lent by Los Angeles County Museum, Los Angeles '..,'. :--i - Gift of Mrs. .John H. C^hingham..•.-•.-..-:^j.v..-^-;. „. - sf£i '• •'- •-••••• -dd- ~r-'-: ! 238 Day dress with "sack" back and matching of deep blue silk with : black polka dots circa 1963 Lent by Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.. •'••"•• Gift of Countess de Martini . „-..- ;...:;;.' 236" Day dress with "sack" back of white silk crepe circa I960 Lent by Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. Gift of Countess de Martini. 17 Day dress and of white flecked pink silk 1967 Lent by Chicago Historical Society, Chicago Gift of Mrs. William McCormick Blair, Jr.

79 Two-oiecTwo-piece dress of white wool • _,_ - .„ ^^y^ ^ 1961 Gift of Kay Kerr, Mew York. ,q ' . 199 Sack dress of dark brown wool 1955-56 Costume Institute Collection cLT-. Lp>-{M. 3 Gift of Mrs. Muriel Rand

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L^_^^^'/ • Gift of Countess de Martini. - . ^air*gcon» D-c-

17 Z«^^ ':' V -1967 t Giftof^.WllliamMc?^^1 ^^ :•.-., ' 79 Two-Piece dress' of "white" wool" "" "*• •- " -. ;""I Gift of Kay Kerr, New York /^ 1961 j

104 Short dress of purple silk and matching Lent by Mrs. Paul Mellon, Washington, D.C. 199 Sack dress of dark brown wool jersey . 1955-56 Costume Institute Collection Gift of Mrs. Muriel Rand C& it ¥. % 3 200 Strapless evening dress of silk in black on white paisley 1937 :---:-. .Costume Institute Collection _ x _•„> 58 £_ ' *' "-' '' jd"dd""J Gift of Mrs.. Leon Roos • ' ' ' - ".:-:'^:Xi /'-'•' "/ •.'•]:; ^243 '.)' Flamenco dancer's dress of white cotton with emerald green coin ' dots, trimmed with wide white cotton lace, and accessories ..... contemporary design Lent by Lola Flores- (Senora de. Gonzales),. Madrid l6l Evening dress of red taffeta with voluminous skirt draped into Zouave-shape in front and bustled in back 1950 Lent by Union Francaise des Arts du Costume, Paris Gift" of Mrs. Arturo Lopez-Willshaw : V2UT '- Long evenWdrisI of black net with yellow lace appliqued on skirt Lent by the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. 19t>l d-- - 'Gift-of Countess de Martini • : '-..••-. - c A x> X 2>'(? H i 0 4 XT* 24 )(* 4~] 57 Sleeveless bell-shaped evening dress of black silk shantung circa 1962 71 Long A-line evening dress of ribbed black silk with black mink at neckline and hem 1964 /'f7& &*Q -£

MRS. RONALD STEIN, NEW YOR K 158 Long sleeveless evening dress of black stubbed silk with deep skirt ruffle and of matching fabric 1961 94 Long evening dress of bright pink silk with short cape circa 1961 r Z< 39 Long evening coat of bois de rose ribbed silk-satin in the "Kabuki" style 1954-55 i4

14 Strapless evening of shocking pink ribbed silk with black net jacket embroidered with grey paillettes 1953-57 Gift of Mrs. Henry R. Luce tctn /for- /^r? 169 Strapless evening dress with a brown chiffon bodice and white silk •gabardine skirt, worn with a gilt mesh and rhinestone waist-length d jacket 1963 Lent by Victoria and Albert Museum, London : \ Gift of Mrs- Loel Guinness \v\

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z_ SI _ UJ I— to LU _ 55 EXCMA. SENORA • . DONA CARMEN POLO DE FRANCO. MADRID 64 Four-piece ensemble of cream chiffon with gold trapunto on the and jacket 1946 65 Long evening dress of pale grey satin, with bodice of grey lace re-em­ broidered in silver sequins, pearls, paillettes, and crystal beads 1947

72 Long evening dress of white silk with embroidered black coin dots circa 1955 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM, LOS ANGELES 90. of pink silk with silver embroidery, petticoat, and matching pair of shoes 1965 Gift of Mrs. Joseph P. Kennedy 26 Long sleeveless evening dress of em­ broidered pale pink silk faille with matching crescent-shaped stole 1960 95 Long sleeveless evening dress of yellow satin with jacket embroidered in pink and blue 1957 Gift of Mrs. William W. Crocker

MME. ARTURO LOPEZ-WILLSHAW, PARIS 89 Carved evening sheath of white satin embroidered in pink flowers and paillettes 1958

MRS. PIERRE DAVID-WEILL, NEWYORK 23 Strapless evening dress of ivory satin appliqued in black lace with matching bolero, black velvet sash, and net crinoline 1950

191 Princess-cut evening dress of cream satin, heavily beaded with jet pendants 1940 ' dXT (pC'2?x Gift of Mrs. Loel Guinness 91 Long evening dress of bright yellow satin-finished silk appliqued in pink, purple, turquoise, and white flowers 1961 Gift of Mrs. Mary F. Pendleton 165 Evening dress of white satin covered with a double layer of cognac-colored gold lame gauze and grey tulle embroidered, in a floral motif 1963 Gift of Maison Salenciaga

147 Long strapless evening dress of white satin-finished silk covered with pink net, embroidered with floral design in silver thread; sash of off-white satin ribbon, and long stole of doubled pink net 1964 160 Strapless short or light pink tulle covered with bright pink sequins, ruby stones, and pale pink ostrich feathers 1950-55 Gift of Mrs. Arturo Lopez-Willshaw

235 • Long evening dress of white chiffon covered with embroidery of silver and white beads circa 1564 Lent by the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. • Gift of Countess de Martini ;

RAMON ESPARZA, PARIS 60 "The One-Seam Coat" of beige and black wool plaid.lined in black satin 1961

BELLERIVE MUSEUM, ZURICH 6 One toile muslin pattern in three pieces for "the one-seam coat" 1961 Go 171 Short full' coat with full sleeves in black silk with velvet design. -,:. in shades of beige and brown . circa 1950 !. • :;^Lent by Mrs.dDavid. Zipkin, New York dd.:;d ^dd "^...';:.'-;;•• •• 'j.-*''A?i 227 Apres-ski ensemble: coat of cocoa brown and white striped wool •' •• worn with tapered pants of cafe-au—lait imitation fur and - . d -/:•:; of brown wool Knit ..<#> ...... 1967 ,. -.iv.d'v.'^ 1 d . Lent by Senora de-Osborne, Madrid 'V'^'." . "'• dV-'': 'dd'-dj'. 250 Apres-ski ensemble: overblouse of green wool knit worn with pants''. - -••;..and matching belt of cocoa brown.stretch fabric and a cape of.lime ' :: : -•'" •'' •'_•.: green imitation fur - '-••:•• • r>..-d \; • •;•..,. •.•",••.•;• 1967 • •• .' ' Lent by Senora de Osborne, Madrid •:•'•'"•'.*• ••'•.•'>- • '•&•:.' \ 109 Suit of llgr.t green wool 1960s. ' Lent by Mr*". Paul Mellon, Washington, D:c. :-"-.'£] iil3 ' and skirt of brown cotton duck ; •. -1960s Lent by f&S- Paul Mellon, Washington, D.C. j 54 .Day coat of bright mauve-pink, wool with front zipper closing and narrow black leather tie belt 19°5 • .--Gift of Baronr.e Philippe de Rothschild, Paris ,^'j; z\. \\*k MARQUESA DE CASA RlERA, MADRID \ 24 Two-piece ensemble: biue and white • and navy blue I b»03-00

229 Ensemble: pahts of navy blue, wool worn with sleeveless overblouse of blue and v.hite striped cotter. . 1960s 4. ** r«„(- x,, :.;,.o p*,-.;i ;.'ollon. ''.d_hi:..-"tGr. D.C.

250 Ensemble: skirt of dark blue cotton cord ar.d long-sleeved blouse nc of blue and white striped cotton 19^^OUo Lent by i'irs. Paul Mallon, Washingrcn, D.C. C II xxi a$o \0 \ 113 tf+ X*\ J2 30 af- 144 Tent dress of acid green silk marquisette with two wide ruffles at hem, and short cape of matching marquisette with deep ruffle at botton circa 1966 M7^. *$7*3*4* U5 Short strapless evening dress of pale azure taffeta covered with ..;'gathered black net dotted in velvet, worn with very full, puffed g ...skirt of matching taffeta ••d.dd ;yV: . -dV^a' mi fa% "1959 d..:;: .-Lent by Mrs..: Arthur Miller, Roxbury, Conn.d '>'?;.{T^d ' ~-C d

117 Short, draped back evening dress of black silk chiffon Lent by Mrs. Arthur Miller, Roxbury, Conn. • 1^73. /¥7-<2*~ 1950s

44 Knee-length skirt of black point d*esprit with seventeen raffled .. petalled tiers and wide band of rose pink satin ... I960 , Lent by Baronne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris

••:••'• .." • •."• - ... . - ; 179 Mid-calf length evening coat of vermilllon ribbed silk 1954 ' Costume Institute Collection -•'••'•-.•_.._:. 5"7. AC ? Gift of Mrs. Byron C. Foy 146 Two-ciece dress of black silk taffe-a; skirt trimmed with rows of scalloped pinked ruffles circa 1955 Lent by Senora de Osborne, Madrid . •• )*+(? \HL\ UH I §T*.f

__

_- V"'Strapless-mini-dress of grey striped organza and matching overdress d x'with ruffled border . 1967-68 •Lent by- Mrs. Derald Rottenberg, New York .' . 88 Long strapless evening dress of bright pink silk crepe with draped '-..•; bodice; matching short cape trimmed with ostrich feathers 1*968 Lent by Meat. Patino Ortiz Linares, Paris L43 Strapless evening dress of yellow lace with fitted bodice, circular - skirt, and matching long stole of yellow lace 1950s Lent by Senora de Osborne, Madrid Long dress of pink dotted tulle, covered with pink ostrich feathers Costume Institute Collection . •'. _. ,x. _6.5¥-. 6~" 1965 Gift of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman 144 Tent dress of acid green silk marquisette with two wide ruffles at hem, and short cape of matching marquisette with deep ruffle at botton circa 1966 /^7¥- ~ 3~7^3^ \52> sy 4^ A\\ "»44

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V i*^zr 48 Sleeveless tunic of silver-jeweled silk, worn with lime green silk- satin trousers 1963 Lent by Baronne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris

162 Evening dress of light blue more, hem shorter in front and '~ - bordered in re-embroidered silver lace 1960-61 Lent by Union Francaise des Arts du Costume;. Paris Gift of Countess Cristina Brandolini d'Adda' '.".- -TV-*- 98''•"-• Morning coat: and pants of plain pink silk "~'-'::\:h:dd^d'••*4 :d^dvd: 1960s ..'. r Lent &y Mrs. .Paul Mellon, Washington, D.C. d'd";.d 7 7-::;/ [ ... s'^----./•,-•••

53 Long housecoat of pale peach silk shantung worn with apricot silk- satin trousers 1964-65 Gift of Baronne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris WT$ TLHOaS 209 Sleeveless, scooped-neck evening dress of saixon satin patterned with lilies of the •'/alley 1959 Costume Institute Collection r T / 2 a/ «»_ Gift of :*u-s. Charles Wrightsman ° '*" ' **"ou 215 At-home coat'in multi-colored floral silk with long loose-fitting 7 'sleeves -••: rv^yT^' '•••"• ' :v; ''':;.<;.;-'-;..::- .y::;.: • : • . • -..•• 1964 . Costume Institute Collection.:/-;: d-....'.'•' ^^•(oB:^3'^r Gift of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman' " '"''. ' dd '•'.

MARQUESA DE LLANZOL, MADRID 34 of satin-finished silk embroidered with silver thread and paillettes 1957 HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, DUCHESS OF CADIZ, MADRID 13 Wedding dress and train of white satin with appliqued beading and em­ broidery in silver thread, pearls, and paillettes; long full silk tulle ; while kid gloves; and square-toed satin pumps appliqued to match dress 1972

MARQUESA DE VILLAVERDE, MADRID 58 Wedding dress of white taffeta with a long train falling from shoulders in matching taffeta; long full veil of silk tulle 1950

MARQUESA DE ZORNOZA,MAORID 59 Wedding dress of white shirred net completely covered with smalt white tassels, narrow satin ribbon and lines of satin embroidery floss; long full veil of silk tulle with a crown of white flowers 1958

7 Short dress of black wool with lowered and gathered skirt circa ' trii^ned at left hip with satin bow ^ 3 5%, (*. *S» *'. '.-. Gift of Rosamond Bemier, New York . - . : j 103 Short demi-sheath of black creoe .1960s Lent by Mors. Paul Mellon, Washington, D.C. _ .-'-... 32 Two-piece dress of black silk matelasse '•'•'.. ' "-" 1966 •*•... Lent by Mrs. Oscai* de la Renta, New_York

.152 Suit of horizontally worked'white mink with attached bodice of "• i.d-yy.^'dd-draped crinkle chiffon in medium brown and satin ribbon sash • . ! .:"••=;". Lent by Mrs. Derald Rottenberg, Mew York . -• ...••.' circa %&$ k222 .-'..."Sack" dress of black raw silk ' icrf^j^lo-k 1950s ;-.. - •..>-.-...j^enfc ^y j/jrs< Herbert Levine,' Mew York.*""' middle: Tunic of pink wool jersey with •-) Q black satin ribbon bows worn '^T" with skirt of black wool. 1967

. 29 Mid-calf length dress of black taffeta with deep hem ruffle 1952 Lent by Countess Rene de Chambrun, Paris /^^^ j/Jf/r a,A

•121.-' Long two-piece dress with skirt of pale green silk organza, and tunic pav_d with large round opalescent sequins * 1967 ; : \' \ Lent by Mrs. Gilbert Miller, New York d^-ddv '.¥;/< d-.;; - - 56 Sleeveless tunic of pale green crinkle organza- embroidered and paille'tted, worn with skirt of nude transparent silk , -^68 d ' . Gift of Earonne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris itf73.-i(-'?*Jo 11 Short A-line dress of black net, embroidered in a floral pattern ^of pearls, sequins, paillettes, and chenille thread ... 1962 'Lent by Mrs. John. B,rodU C . Worn by Mrs. S.W. Dittenhoffer". 217 ' Knee-length A-line dress of warp printed multi-colored satin, beaded and " . Costume Institute Collection ' r' TZ'-UO 5^ I pailletted 1963 Gift of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman ' i' • 47 Large hood of taupe-brown mink lined with greyish-brown silk • """'".'. organza 1962 Lent by Baronne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris 46 Knee-length A-line dress of black net with long sleeves, encrusted with jeweled embroidery : • 1962 Lent by Baronne Philippe de Rothschild, Paris 201 Evening dress and jacket of red silk with floral design in gold and silver re-embroidered in gold and silver sequins and jet 1957 Costume Institute'Collection _ .X- (oR • lie a- Gift of Mala Rubinstein

3 SSTiSnSh J1/Sn^f' shsath of eau de nil pailletted silk organza lent by Sir Cecil Beaton Collection, London. • • ^960 .:• Gift of Countess de Martini -d v -•'.,- XI 5'6 ail A (^ 77 ao) COUNTESS REN_ DE CHAMBRUN, PARIS 29 Mid-calf length dress of black taffeta with deep hem ruffle 1952 Hl5r /fP ^ £f\

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y.. -.•;. •y.-skirt of black wool .,•...._ •••. .•,-/.>•; j.,. ...:- . y •; 1967 • :. Lent by Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. ' Gift of Countess de Martini., ... ' -:. ... I Tunic dress and. skirt of black !___ wool. 1950s. ; cWo i^nt by Mrs. Herbert Levine, New York 2*.* 0-4X ax3 left: Mid-calf length evening coat of vermillion ribbed silk, 195^. I "JQ The Costume Institute Collection ' Lent by Mrs. Eyron C. Foy

middle* Long evening coat of pink silk' . ._• faille. 1960s, j •*, __d."Lent by the Smithsonian Institutic j*U-f-6 Gift of Countess de Martini

right:' Two-piece dress of black silk taffeta. Skirt trimmed with rows of scalloped pinked ruffles. \\+k Ca I955 Lent by SeSlora Rafael Osborne, Madrid. J Z<£T /<&> Left: Evening dress of cerise gazar with of three deep flounces in the "flamenco" style, 1962 [ L*7 Gift of Stavros Niarchos ' Loaned by Victoria and Albert Museum, London Right; Two-piece long evening dress of light blue silk gazar, I9601 s Q (o ;Loaned by Mrs. Paul Mellon, Washington, D.C.

153 Strapless mini-dress of grey striped organza and matching overdress with ruffled border 1967-68 fS3

/5^/^ncr^ct /$£ £oasi