C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A H E R I T A G E S T U D Y P A R T O N E

P R E P A R E D F O R

T A U R A N G A C I T Y C O U N C I L E N V I R O N M E N T B A Y O F P L E N T Y

B Y

M A T T H E W S & M A T T H E W S A R C H I T E C T S L T D I N A S S O C I A T I O N W I T H J I N T Y R O R K E , J E N N I E G A I N S F O R D , L I S A T R U T T M A N R . A S K I D M O R E & A S S O C I A T E S

A P R I L 2 0 0 8

P A G E i C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

C O N T E N T S

1.0 INTRODUCTION ...... 2 1.2 PROJECT TEAM...... 2 1.3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ...... 2 1.4 BRIEF AND PROJECT OBJECTIVES...... 3 1.5 THE STUDY AREA...... 3

2.0 THEMATIC HISTORY AN OVERVIEW OF THE HISTORY OF TAURANGA ...... 5 THEME I – THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE...... 5 THEME II – THE BUILT CITY ...... 21 THEME III – INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE ...... 51 THEME IV – RELATIONSHIPS WITH NATURAL ENVIRONMENT ...... 67 THEME V – CULTURAL EXPRESSIONS ...... Error! Bookmark not defined.

3.0 IDENTIFICATION AND ASSESSMENT OF BUILT HERITAGE IN CENTRAL TAURANGA...... 79 3.1 METHODOLOGY ...... 79 3.2 SUMMARY STATEMENT OF HERITAGE SIGNIFICANCE ­ CENTRAL TAURANGA ...... 82

4.0 REVIEW OF EXISTING PLANNING FRAMEWORK...... 98

5.0 OPTIONS TO ENHANCE MANAGEMENT OF HERITAGE RESOURCES IN CENTRAL TAURANGA ...... 108 5.1 Options to Enhance Heritage Recognition and Protection...... 109

6.0 RECOMMENDATIONS...... 114 6.1 RECOMMENDATIONS TO ENHANCE/ STRENGTHEN EXISTING DISTRICT PLAN PROVISIONS RELATED TO HERITAGE...... 114 6.2 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR NEW DISTRICT PLAN OPTIONS TO ENHANCE THE RECOGNITION AND PROTECTION OF HERITAGE RESOURCES...... 116

APPENDICES ...... 138 APPENDIX 1 TAURANGA MOANA TIMELINE ...... 139

P A G E i i C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

CENTRAL TAURANGA HERITAGE STUDY­ PART ONE

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY The aim of the Central Tauranga Heritage Study is to carry out a comprehensive review of built heritage, and to use this information to look at the ongoing management of heritage resources from a base of understanding and knowledge. It is important to recognise that there can be a shift in what we value over time, particularly as information and knowledge of a place is extended. Places we value now may not always have been recognised or valued as highly.

The study has involved broad research into the main historic themes which have shaped development in central Tauranga so that individual places can be understood in context. It has also involved gathering information about a broad range of buildings and structures, from a range of periods in the central area. This preliminary research helped to identify important historic associations or values that needed to be investigated more fully.

There are aspects of central Tauranga’s built environment which are typical of many New Zealand town centres and other elements that are unique. Currently only a small number of places have been identified as being of heritage value in central Tauranga through their inclusion in the district plan schedule of heritage places. Very little historic research is held by council in relation to those places which are scheduled. A report, titled Heritage Management: Issues and Options for Tauranga District, was prepared for the Tauranga District Council in 1993. This report identified a range of issues related to heritage in Tauranga and developed a set of guiding principles for a heritage strategy. This study included an inventory of places considered to be of High, Medium and Low heritage value. It provided a summary of management issues and a suggested strategy. Using the inventories in the 1993 study as a starting point places were prioritised for research as part of this study.

The built form in central Tauranga demonstrates development from a range of periods, and provides evidence of important associations with people and organisations over time, and its historic pattern of development. Tauranga’s surviving historic buildings and places are an important asset of the central area, contributing to its unique sense of place, and they are a finite resource. Currently there are a number of places in the central area or groups of places which do have heritage value to some degree. Most of these places are included in the Built Heritage Inventory database, however this identification does not necessarily provide certainty or encouragement to retain and reuse them in preference to redevelopment.

There is an opportunity to expand the understanding and information available about other significant places and important historic themes in the central area and to celebrate a broader range of places. The ongoing retention and sympathetic reuse of a range of places adds to the authentic qualities of the centre. Research about heritage in central Tauranga provides a resource that will help in understanding what is there, what is special about it, and hopefully promoting that to the community, new investors and tourists.

As a result of the study options for statutory and non­statutory methods to enhance the ongoing management of the collective values of heritage resources and future development in central Tauranga are put forward.

The Study report is in two parts. Part One includes the thematic historic overview, a summary of cultural heritage values associated with the city centre as a whole and a review of management of heritage resources. Options for enhancing heritage management through non­statutory and statutory methods are proposed. Appendices contain supporting information.

Part Two contains an inventory of heritage places within the central study area which have been researched and assessed using heritage criteria from the Bay of Plenty Regional Policy Statement. This is supported by record forms for those places which have been researched in detail, as part of this Study and by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust. Base information gathered for a number of other places is included in the appendices.

I N T R O D U C T I O N ­ P A G E 1 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

1.0 INTRODUCTION

The Tauranga Heritage Study is a joint initiative of Environment Bay of Plenty and Tauranga City Council. These agencies have agreed that comprehensive information on the heritage of central Tauranga is necessary for this resource to be protected and managed appropriately in the future.

The built heritage of central Tauranga includes a resource of national and regional importance. A number of sites and structures are associated with distinctive phases of New Zealand’s history, including settlement by tangata whenua and the early relationship between Maori and European settlers. The establishment of the township and its progressive growth are also important themes in the heritage of Tauranga District.

The purpose of the study is to gather information about the development of central Tauranga, and to use this information to look at the ongoing management of built heritage resources from a base of understanding and knowledge.

It aims to identify heritage of a physical nature­ sites, buildings, places and areas within the central area important for their heritage and character value, and to evaluate these places, within the context of a thematic framework. This thematic approach enables consideration of the cultural heritage values of places in the city centre within a broader context and looking at the full range of types of heritage that may be present. Based on an understanding of these themes, the surviving fabric and urban pattern within the study area can be analysed. Current heritage listings can be assessed to see if there are any gaps, or significant aspects of the area’s history which may have been overlooked.

It is important to recognise that there can be a shift in what we value over time, particularly as information and knowledge of a place is extended. Places we value now may not always have been recognised or valued as highly.

This thematic contextual approach is being used increasingly in New Zealand as a way of reviewing the identification and assessment of heritage, and is well established overseas.

Tauranga’s iconic places, such as The Elms mission station, have generally been well recognised and well researched. However at the moment very few places in central Tauranga are recognised as being of heritage value. The study poses the question­ what other places represent central Tauranga’s unique historic development and character?

A review of the current planning mechanisms for managing historic heritage resources in central Tauranga has been undertaken. Recommendations for potential options, both statutory and non­ statutory, for the ongoing management and improved understanding of Tauranga’s heritage are put forward.

1.2 PROJECT TEAM

The project team includes the following:

Matthews & Matthews Architects Ltd, project co­ordinators and conservation architects. Jinty Rorke, historian, Antoine Coffin, Boffa Miskell Maori historic themes, Jennie Gainsford, historian, Lisa Truttman, Historian, and R.A Skidmore & Associates, heritage planning.

The team are very grateful for the expertise and broad knowledge that Jinty Rorke brought to this project. The thematic overview has been prepared by Jinty Rorke, and her broad research and depth of knowledge were invaluable to the study.

1.3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The assistance of the following organisations and people during the study is gratefully acknowledged:

I N T R O D U C T I O N ­ P A G E 2 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y Tauranga City Council, Environment Bay of Plenty, The New Zealand Historic Places Trust, Tauranga Library staff.

1.4 BRIEF AND PROJECT OBJECTIVES

Key objectives for the study are:

• To identify the range of built heritage in central Tauranga. • To complete an assessment of built heritage in the central Tauranga Study area. • To provide recommendations for the protection and ongoing management of heritage in the Tauranga CBD area.

Key project tasks include:

• Research and preparation of a contextual history for the study area to identify key themes in the historic development of Tauranga’s central area. • Review existing inventories and registers in light of identified themes. • Identify potentially significant built heritage places that may have been overlooked or gaps in current listings. • Prepare more detailed research to complete field survey record forms for particular historic places, including a summary of history and cultural heritage significance, and overview of condition. • Review existing planning mechanisms for heritage protection and provide recommendations for future protection and management of built heritage resources in the study area. • Prepare a report summarizing research and investigation undertaken.

1.5 THE STUDY AREA

The study area focuses on area A in the central area of Tauranga shown on the following map. This includes the commercial heart of the city. Review of built heritage in the central area was addressed as a priority because of development pressure and to link in with other studies commissioned by Council including the Tauranga City Centre Strategy.

I N T R O D U C T I O N ­ P A G E 3 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

I N T R O D U C T I O N ­ P A G E 4 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

2.0 THEMATIC HISTORY AN OVERVIEW OF THE HISTORY OF TAURANGA

Following is an overview of key historic themes which have been important in the historic development of central Tauranga. This framework helps to provide an understanding of individual places or groups of places within an overall historic context. It has been used to provide a preliminary review of those places which have already been identified as being of heritage value by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust or in the District Plan. It helps to understand which themes these places represent and whether there might be other places which represent important themes which have not been recognised.

THEME I – THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

PAKIWAITARA – THE ORIGINS OF THE LAND

The origins of Mauao are generally accepted as being from Te Waonui o Hautere (the great forest of Hautere) to the south west of Tauranga harbour. The love story below is a common feature of wharenui carvings and school education in Tauranga. Mauao is the name of the mountain, which is the symbol of all tribes of Tauranga Moana. It stands at the entrance to our harbour, but it was not always there, and it was not always such an important maunga (mountain). Long ago, this mountain was just a nameless hill, a pononga (slave) to the great Otanewainuku, the high hill which stands to the south of Pyes Pa, and is the landmark for the tribes of Tauranga Moana. This hill with no name was in love with Puwhenua, a shapely young maunga covered with ferns and trees, which stood to the southwest. He wanted her to be his bride, but alas Puwhenua did not know he existed. She loved the great Otanewainuku. The hill with no name was so upset he decided to drown himself in the ocean, but he could not move by himself, he needed help from his friends, the patupaiarehe. One dark night, the patupaiarehe used their magic plaited ropes to pull their friend to the ocean.i Patupaiarehe E hika tu ake Ki runga ra whiti ki taua Hei tama tu Uea ki te uru, kumea ki te tonga Hiki nuku, hiki rangi I ara ra Ko ngarue, ka ngarue Toia ki te hau marangai Kia whakarongo taku kiri Te kikini a te rehutai O nga ngaru whatiwhati E haruru mai nei Wiwiwwi Wawawa A ha ha Horahia o mata ki a Meremere Tuahiahi Hei taki i te ara ki a Tangaroa He atua hao i te tini ki te po E kokoia e ara e

The patupaiarehe chanted this song and hauled the nameless one from his place among the hills from Waoku. They gouged out the valley where the Waimapu now flows. The word Waimapu comes from his sobbing tears as he moved on his way to the sea. They followed the channel of Tauranga Moana past Hairini, past Maungatapu and Matapihi, past Te Papa. This became Te Awanui (great river), that we now know as Tauranga Harbour. They pulled him to the edge of the great ocean of Kiwa. But it was almost daybreak. The sun rose. The first rays lit up the summit of the nameless hill and fixed it in that place. The patupaiarehe melted away before the light of the sun. They were people of the night and they flew back into the shady depths of the forests and ravines of Hautere. The patupaiarehe gave the name Mauao to the new mountain, which means caught by the dawn or lit up by the first rays of sunrise. ii

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 5 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

The creation of the Kopurererua River has its origins at Kahakaharoa, a village in the forest reaches near Omanawa. There lived Taurikura daughter of a chief. Because of her high rank she was given everything she wanted, and so became very spoilt. Fa below the village, a river flowed through a gorge. The villagers had to make their way down a steep track to fetch water from this river.

One day, Taurikura’s old grandfather was thirsty. The river was long way down and his legs were weak. He asked Taurikura to fetch the water for him. But she would not go, she said she was tired. So the old man took an empty gourd and very slowly went down the steep path to the river.

After drinking some of the water, the old man filled the gourd. His old legs carried him slowly and painfully back up the side of the cliff to the village. Taurikura saw the water in the gourd, and she wanted some. But the old man was very angry with her. He told her she was cheeky and lazy, and that she should not expect others to run around after her. When he finished telling her off, Taurikura felt ashamed and embarrassed. She could not face the old man or her other relatives again because she knew she had behaved badly.

She could not stay in the pa. She left her whare in the middle of the night, and quietly slipped away down the steep path to the river. Before jumping into the water, she changed herself into a lizard (ngarara). As the river carried her down towards Tauranga Moana, it changed course, makinga new route, which is now called Kopurererua. Taurikura was carried out into the Tauranga harbour and kept swimming till she arrived at Karewa. Her descendants are the Tuatara that lived on the island. This story is carved on the poupou at Huria Marae, Judea. iii

Today the channel of the Kopurererua River has been disguised by the expressway development and the formation of the Waikareao Estuary due to river works.

NGA TAPUWAE NUKU ME NGA HEKE – WAKA MIGRATION AND ARRIVALS

Ngamarama Kaumatua of Tauranga, including Hare Piahana, Turi Te Kani, and Wiremu Ohia, stated that the district was in the possession of Nga Marama prior to the association of the waka Te Arawa, Tainui, Takitimu and the ‘hekenga mai o Mataatua’ to Tauranga. According to Piahana, Nga Marama ‘originally came from Tamaki, Auckland, to Hauraki, some to Matamata.iv The whole of the land on the east of the range belonged to Ngamarama in former times including the land south of Ngakuriawharei. The Ngamarama land extended from the east Coast to the top of the dividing range…the land west of the range belonged to Ngati Hako. The sources of the Ohinemuri River are in the Mamarama portion. The Ngatitamatera took the land as far north as Okori as far south as Tuapiro.v According to Whatana Eru: The Ngamarama were the earliest occupants of this district, when the Waitaha came, they drove the Ngamarama across the Waimapu and occupied Hairini, Ranginui appeared; and also attacked the Ngamarama. It was not till after some time that they fought in concert. At first each was waging an independent war on Ngamarama.v i

Early accounts of the Commissioner courts point to a waka called Ararauta as the vessel on which Ngamarama arrived in Tauranga. During the time of Ngamarama, Raumati was a chief who held mana of Tauranga and Mauao. His descendants still live at Wairoa under the name Ngati Kahu. The Raumati tradition is associated with Mauao through the burning of the Te Arawa waka, where he was claimed to be responsible for the action. The Arawa canoe was lying on the banks of the Kaituna River, and a special shed had been built around her to protect her from the elements, for she had become a prized relic and very tapu. When Raumati and his party reached Maketu they found that place deserted, all the people being in the forest seeking food, and they prepared a fire to cook a meal for themselves. Whether by accident or design, the fact remains that before they left, the fire which they had kindled spread rapidly and before long had set fire to the shed in which the Arawa was housed. In a matter of moments the tinder dry shed was reduced to ashes. The fire

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 6 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y was seen by those in the forest and it was not long before Te Arawa found their sacred waka destroyed. The chief of Mokoia Island challenged his sons Hanui, Haroa and Hatupatu to avenge the destruction of the waka as great mana would be derived from such a deed. Preparations were made and the war party departed for Tauranga. The people of Raumati expected a retaliation and so gathered many warriors for battle. The first battle was fought between Maketu and Maunganui (Mauao) with Hanui and Haroa’s men suffering losses. They rallied behind Hatupatu who dispatched one of Raumati’s best warriors Karika. Raumati’s force retreated quickly to Maunganui where they made a last stand. Hatupatu captured Raumati by using a rite called Tipi a Houmea, which caused a cliff to fall on Raumati and kill him. According to George Graham (1943), upon capture Raumati offered the mere Te Kaoreore to Hatupatu to dispatch him with dignity. The victors under Hatupatu returned to Mokoia and Hatupatu received great mana due to his actions to avenge the burning of the Te Arawa. vii At the time of Raumati’s death, an area was then named Te Panepane o Raumati. This is located at the end of the sand spit on Matakana Island, adjacent to Mauao. The association of Raumati and Tainui is said to be through his father whilst his mother was of Ngamarama.

Takitimu The Takitimu waka is one of the famous and well known migration waka that came to Tauranga. Here Tamatea, the commander, decided to remain and he handed over the vessel to the command of Tahu, the younger brother of Porourangi. On reaching Tauranga or Kawhai­nui as it was called, his first act was to plant a sacred flax, called Whara­whara­nui. He then built a pa and named it Te Manga­Tawa. He took a wife from the descendants of Toi, who had peopled this part of the country. Shortly after a son was born, whom he named Rongokako, and Tamatea­Ariki­nui, alias Tamatea­mai­tawhiti, passed away to the spirit home of his forebears. viii Tamatea’s grandson named Tamatea­Ure­haea (Tamatea the circumcised) Tamatea­pokai­whenua or Tamatea­pokai­moana which denoted his prowess as an explorer also travelled to Tauranga and settled again at the pa Mangatawa. ix According to the Ngati Kahungunu tradition Tamatea pokai whenua had three wives, Te Onoonoiwhao, Iwi Pupu and Te Moana i kauia. The children of these marriages included Kahungunu, Whaene, Haumanga and Ranginui.x Ngati Ranginui tradition describes Tamatea Arikinui and Tamateapokaiwhenua as the same person. The name Maunganui according to Hare Piahana is derived from Hawaiki and bestowed upon Mauao Tamateapokaiwhenua following his arrival.

…No muri tenei, ka huaina tona ingoa, ko Maunganui. Na wai hua o Maunganui, nana ai, na Tamateapokaiwhenua, kei te haeretanga mai I Hawaiki ka ku mai ki Maunganui, ka ki ai a ia te ingoa o te wahi nei, ko Maunganui. Kei ingoa haria mai nana no Hawaiki hei ingoa whakamaharatanga tenei ki runga I te motu nei ko Hawaiki te ingoa. xi

Hei xii I Waitaha I Ruarangi I Onoonoiwaho = Tamateapokaiwhenua = Ihuparapara = Iwipupu I I I Whaene Ranginui Kahungunu

Descended from Tamateapokaiwhenua was Taiwhanake, the high chief of Mauao at his time. Taiwhanake was the proud possessor of two famous cloaks. One was named Parorouri, the other Parorotai. These cloaks have also been referred to as Pororotai and Pororouru, and Hikurangi and Hikureia. Tradition has it that the high chief displayed his authority by the elevated suspension of his cloaks to a height of prominence, a signal that there was need to replenish food supplies – and with haste and servility the people of his tribe set to and complied with the signal. It is also known

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 7 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y that at some time he was guardian of his illustrious ancestors’ two famous sacred axes, Te Awhiorangi and Te Whironui, and the hoe (paddle), Te Rapanga i te Ata Nuku.x iii

Te Arawa Tradition According to Te Arawa traditions, Te Papa was named by the crew of the Te Arawa waka. Te Arawa waka travelled past the coastline on its way to Maketu. Places were named including the entire coast from Katikati to Maketu. Tama Te Kapua the captain of the Te Arawa named Maketu (the bridge of my nose), Hei claimed ‘Te Takapu o Waitaha’ (the belly of my son, Waitaha), and Tia named ‘Te Takapu o Tapuika’ (the belly of my son Tapuika). Later Te Arawa people occupied the coastal area including Mauao. In 1856, Shortland, dealing with a traditional account from Te Arawa informants of the arrival of the Arawa canoe, says that after leaving Mercury Island, Katikati was the next place touched at. Te Ranga­Tai­Kehu is the name of that spot. At Katikati they found some of the men of Tainui with their chief Raumati. So leaving Raumati and his party at Tauranga, the Arawa sailed from Te Ranga to Maunganui which was taken possession of by Tutauaroa, who remained there. The next night the crew rested at Warake [Wairakei]. In the morning they reached Maketu where the Arawa was hauled ashore for the last time.x iv

Hei I Waitaha I Tutauaroa Naia Matamoho Oueroa Kuri I Taiwhanake I Kinonuix v

These traditions are confirmed by Te Kani and Ohia, that while passing Te Taroto near Katikati Hei exclaimed ‘Te papa e takoto mai nei ko teTakapu o taku tamaiti a Waitaha’. According to Kahotea, Waitaha the son of Hei settled the Otawa and Tauranga area which was then occupied by Ngamarama, fulfilling his father’s wishes. xvi Tutauaroa lived at Maunganui and his son Taiwhanake became well known as a great provider of food and as such was a chief of great mana. His cloaks Pororotai and Pororouri were laid out on Mauao to convey a message to gather the foods of the sea or the forest respectively. Taiwhanake’s son was Kinonui and was chief of Ngati Ranginui and Waitaha people living on Mauao. A large carved representation of Taiwhanake can be found in the foyer of the Tauranga District Council offices on Willow Street. The Waitaha people lived on the east side of Mauao for some time while Ngati Ranginui lived on the western side overlooking the Tauranga harbour. Their combined numbers were many and provided enough men to defend the large pa. The coast of the Bay of Plenty was fiercely fought over. Past grievances quickly became precursors to battles and war.

Te Heke o Te Rangihouhiri Te Rangihouhiri is the eponymous ancestor of Ngaiterangi. He and his followers travelled the East Coast and Bay of Plenty occupying many places including Maketu and eventually his followers under the name Ngaiterangi took Tauranga. Te Rangihouhiri’s brother is Tamapahore, ancestor of Ngapotiki who occupied the Papamoa Hills and Rangataua. Ngati Pukenga another Mataatua hapu occupied lands on the shores of Rangataua.

Toi I Awanuiarangi I Awaroa I Toroa Toroa I I Ruaihona Wairaka I I

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 8 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y Te Hinga o tera Tamateaki te Huatahi I I Awanuiarangi Tanemoeahi I I Rongotangiawa Pukenga I I Romainohorangi Whetu I Te Rangihouhiri Tamapahore I Tuwhiwhia I Kotorerua

According to Wilson and Stafford, in the dusk of evening Kotorerua and 140 followers presented themselves outside the palisades of Maunganui Pa and announced that they had arrived in order to present Kinonui (the chief of Maunganui) with gift of one hundred baskets of red ochre procured after much trouble from the Kaikokopu Stream. As guests they entered the pa, the baskets of ochre being stacked away to await inspection in the morning. Then Kotorerua and his men were shown to the large meeting house, which stood on a plateau above the place now known as Stony Point, and here they were received by the distinguished men of the pa. For some hours the pretence was kept up by both sides, Kotorerua playing for time and waiting for a certain signal, while Kinonui endeavoured to ascertain the real reason for the visit … however, the plans of Kotorerua were proceeding, for shortly after dark the bulk of Ngaiterangi had arrived off Maunganui in their canoes and by superb seamanship and careful planning had come ashore at a narrow gap in the rocks called Awaiti. First of all, the canoes on the beach belonging to the inhabitants of the pa had the lashings of the topsides cut and rocks were used to smash holes in the bottoms of some of the smaller ones … Meanwhile, in the meeting house the two chiefs still kept up the pretence of courtesy. One by one the followers of Kotorerua had left the house feigning tiredness, until he alone of his group was left. Then one of his men returned and whispered a message to him, and before Kinonui or his people could collect their wits Kotorerua and his man had stepped outside the meeting house, slammed and locked the door and applied a lighted torch to the thatch of the building. As the tinder dry building burst into flames, destroying the inmates, from the heights of the pa came the rest of Kotorerua’s warriors, killing and spreading terror among the inhabitants … in a short space of time the pa was reduced to ruin xvii Despite the loss of Mauao, Ngati Ranginui continued to live at Otumoetai and other places and the Waitaha people and Ngati Tapuika still live on the coast today, at Maungatapu, Te Puke, and Maketu.

Arrival of Ngapuhi Following the arrival of muskets in New Zealand the northern tribes early access to the new weapons saw large flotillas of men making expeditions south. According to Stokes, the large pa on Maunganui was taken by Te Morenga of Ngapuhi in 1820 and never re­occupied. A peace was made with Ngapuhi shortly afterwards by Te Waru of Ngai Te Rangi. This was kept until 1830 when a force of Ngapuhi led by Haramiti were defeated by a combined force of Ngai Te Rangi, Ngati Ranginui and Ngati Haua at Motiti.x viii An expedition led under Titore and Te Panakareao reached Tauranga towards the end of 1832. This army joined with Te Arawa at Maunganui and at least one month of battles ensued with no decisive battle on either side.x ix According to a number of sources local Maori no longer occupied Mauao due to its “tapu” status. The Civil Commissioner, T.H. Smith does not record any settlement at Mauao in 1864. xx The Government Census of Maori population in 1878 Tauranga, does not identify any settlement at Mauao, the closest residence being Whareroa (Ngaiterangi).x xi Residences recorded in 1881; do not identify any occupation of Mauao, the closest settlement again being Whareroa (Matewaitai/Ngatipau).x xii About 1818 saw the end of the Mount as a Maori stronghold. In that year Ngapuhi attacked the Ngaiterangi Pa at Maunganui and in the first use of firearms drove the inhabitants into the sea. Archdeacon Alfred Brown of the Church Missionary Society’s Tauranga Station makes no mention in his journal of the Mount being inhabited after 1835. Dr. Ernest Dieffenbach, a surgeon and naturalist in the employ of the New Zealand Company, visited the area in June 1841 and spoke of the Mount’s complete desertion.x xiii

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 9 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

War with Hauraki In 1828 Ngati Maru and Ngati Tamatera under the chief Te Rohu attacked Otamataha pa and surrounding settlements Taumatakahawai and Te Pahipoto killing most of the occupants. From this time the area was deemed to be tapu and not occupied. Today these areas are still revered as tapu ground.

OCCUPATION AND RESOURCE USE

Much of the Te Papa peninsula was occupied and names were given to discreet areas of settlement, use and association. Paripari is the traditional name of the former sandspit that swept out into the harbour from the northern point of the peninsula. xxiv The name Te Papa was synonymous with what is now the Mission cemetery and pa of Otamataha; however the name became popular to describe the wider area, particularly under the influence of the Church Missionary Society who had a mission station there. The original purchase agreement between A.N. Brown and the local chiefs (Reretuwhenua, Tamakaipipi, Ngapipi, Taharangi, Uataha, Rangipo, Tiro, Amahau, Ngatihi, Hota, Tahu, Kapa, Ponui, Tihe, Kaponga, Poho, Taureka, Tangimoana, Tautohetohe, Pahoro, Kape, Tuku, Waimuri, Te kitemate, Rangiowiri, Te Kumikumi, Ngahui) names the various place names for the Te Papa block. They provide a sequential list of some 31 places.

Purchase Agreement list of places E.Adams location of places Taumatakahawai high land extending from the redoubt to the north Herekura not identified Kauere not identified Warepapa between Spring and Elizabeth St’s back to Selwyn St facing Waikaereao Estuary Papeka not identified Okehuroa flat swamp between Glasgow St & Waikareao Taikau both sides of Cameron Rd between 5 th and 8 th Avenues Waiariki not identified Tuki o te Waihake not identified Waipara 4 th to 9t h Aves & Edgecumbe Rd to Waikareao Omarou not identified Opohue not identified Tahataharoa high land west of Edgecumbe overlooking Waikareao Ineteweta not identified Waipuna Hospital grounds Heremaro Tauranga Primary and Girsl College grounds Rangiora Cameron Rd & Courtney Road area Turangipo not identified Ora not identified Ohinetekuri not identified Taiere not identified Pukehinahina former Gate Pa site Pokorau (Pakorau) Greerton, Cameron Rd & Chadwick Rd area Pukehouhou between the cemetery (eastwards) and Waimapu River Ware o te ao not identified Kahiwi not identified Ririiti hill at the east end of 11 th Avenue overlooking harbour Tauparirua high land between 17 th & 9t h Avenues Maeanui (Mareanui) harbour front between Devonport Rd & Elizabeth St Waihirere not identified Puhaiakeke not identified Taumatakahawai

Taumatakahawai is the name given to an elevated piece of land overlooking the eastern arm of Tauranga harbour. It is reputed to be the first place to see kahawai as they swim down the harbour. Okahukura is the name of the beach front and area on the Strand. Its sandy beaches were a Tauranga waka (canoe landing place) and arrival place for visiting people. Further to the

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 1 0 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y south is Hawaiki a name synominous with the spiritual homeland of tangata whenua throughout the Pacific. The name is associated with migration waka. Taiparoro and Taiparirua denote small knolls on the eastern side of the Avenues. The names are possibly associated with waka arrival. The names listed in the purchase agreement were not accompanied by a map. The Old Land Claim 84 shows the land in question in some detail but no annotations are present. What has become apparent is that the names are recorded geographically in an anti­clockwise position starting at Taumatakahawai. This means that those sites which are known can be used to interpolate approximate locations of ones in­between. Well known historian E. Adams prepared a list of Maori placenames which he published in the local historical journal. These locations have been added above, however, require further research to accurately locate places. Occupation appears to have followed plateaus and flat areas near escarpments and positions close to water. This could probably describe most of the CBD, however the tradition suggests the most intense occupation was at Otamataha Pa, immediately adjacent plateau area and Mareanui pa.

TWO WORLDS MEET

Pakeha Contact The first Europeans to sight the Mount were Lieutenant James Cook and his crew on Friday, 3 November 1769. Cook wrote a passage in his journal, later deleted, in which he described the Mount as “…a high round hill standing near the sea upon a flat sand beach”. Due to the on shore wind and hazy weather the Endeavour’s course was altered towards Mayor Island.x xv

The early contact with the missionaries was during a time of great conflict. It was not until the late 1830s that contact was ongoing. The immediate impacts of the missionaries, both Catholic and more particularly Church Missionary Society were technology, language and facilitation of peace. The physical remnants of this meeting of two worlds are probably reflected in the Mission Station buildings and grounds and the Mission Cemetery.

Te Raupatu – Confiscation and marginalisation

In 1865 the Tauranga lands were confiscated under the NZ Settlements Act 1863 by Proclamation. This area of some 290,000 acres included Mauao. A process of conversion from customary tenure to individual title was established in Tauranga following confiscation. This included the establishment of the Commissioners Court, which oversaw the re­allocation of some of these lands between 1868 – 1886. This administration facilitated the individualisation of titles, removal of alienation restrictions and crown purchases of Mauao blocks. During the late 1870s hearings were conducted by J.A. Wilson as commissioner of lands to determine owners and allocate certificates. Unfortunately many of most of his records were not handed to his successor H.W. Brabant, who was appointed in 1880. The Te Papa land block purchased by the CMS (OLC 84) had no identified native reserves and this was reflected in the Crown grants.

Public works such as rail and road have changed the topography of the CBD area; however there are still some hints of the landform and certainly occupation still present. Urban development has modified many of the physical evidence of occupation and the topography of the land. Still some of the clues remain including the cliffs along the east side of the Waikareao Estuary (formerly Kopurerua River), Otamataha (Mission Cemetery), Taumatakahawai (Cliff Road), banks below Devonport Road, and areas around the west side of Durham St.

Only a few places are referenced in street and place names. The few include Spring Street (a former spring) and Takitimu Drive (named after the migration waka). Names that have not been retained include Pahipoto Domainx xvi (the former name for Tauranga Domain) and Te Papa (the former name for the town).

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The site of Tauranga City

The first Europeans to live on the Te Papa peninsula, which is the centre of the city of Tauranga, were missionaries from the Church Missionary Society. This was an Anglican foundation, which sent young men and their families to foreign missions all over the world. However, the mission station did not attract other settlers to its environs.

It was only after the confiscation of land in the western Bay of Plenty following the battles of Gate Pa and Te Ranga in 1864, that a township was established at the northern end of the Te Papa peninsula. It was a military settlement, populated mainly by members of the 1 st Waikato Militia, who were allocated land in exchange for a commitment to stay and defend the district against any possible Maori uprisings.

Although initially “Te Papa” was used to designate both the existing mission station and the fledgling settlement and “Tauranga” referred to the whole district surrounding the extensive harbour, by 1875 usage had changed and the name “Tauranga” was generally applied to the township. 1 This location was chosen both by the early missionaries and by government officials for its proximity to the harbour entrance and to the fertile lands at the foot of the Kaimai ranges.

Tauranga was considered a suitable place for a port, as the harbour provided a sheltered anchorage, once the entrance had been negotiated. This was no easy task for sailing ships, which battled against strong currents and fluky winds around Mauao as they followed a circuitous route around the shore line of Pilot Bay. Vessels bound for the settlement proceeded further down the Waimapu harbour to lie at anchor, or, later, to lie alongside one of the wharves. There was not much depth of water off the shore.

When the Tauranga North Township Highways Board was established in 1870 2 , the boundary was set as 11 th Avenue. From the start it was considered that the district should extend out as far as 17 th Avenue, and this was agreed to in 1874.

1. The Strand c 1876 shows the Masonic Hotel (two storey building on left), the wooden government buildings on the sky line at the back to the left of the trees, and the Tauranga Hotel on the extreme right.

During the late 1870s residents petitioned central government several times, requesting that Tauranga be gazetted as a borough. It was only at the end of 1881, however, that the requisite total of 250 households was reached. The population from the 1881 census was 1258. The Borough of Tauranga was finally gazetted on 21 February 1882. 3 The southern boundary was Hospital Street (re­named 17 th Avenue in 1956)

1 Addresses used in adverts in Bay of Plenty Times 1874/1875 2 Bellamy, A.C. ed., Tauranga 1882­1982 Tauranga, Tga City Council, 1982 p 21 3 Bellamy, A.C. ed., Tauranga 1882­1982 Tauranga, Tga City Council, 1982 p 26

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 1 2 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y Population of Tauranga Borough Date Population Areas added to Borough 1881 1258 1901 945 1931 2930 1941 3910 1946 17 to 23 Ave (Tauranga South) 1949 Otumoetai East and Judea 1951 7823 1958 Maungatapu and Hirini 1959 Western Otumoetai 1962 14,150 1963 Greerton 1964 21,500

Tauranga reached the 20,000 population required for city status on 1 April 1963, when Greerton was added to the borough. 4 Amalgamation with Mount Maunganui Borough Council led to the name being changed to Tauranga District Council in 1989. In March 2004, when the population passed 100,000, the name was changed back to Tauranga City.5

The people of Tauranga

Although some of the earliest European residents of the district were traders, none lived on the Te Papa peninsula, preferring to be in close proximity to the populous pa at Otumoetai and Maungatapu. Notable among the early Otumoetai traders were the Farrow brothers and John Lees Faulkner. Faulkner’s descendants continue to play an important part in the life of the Tauranga district. Interpretation panels on the waterfront there provide information about their lives.

Missionaries

The missionaries, who arrived in the 1820s to trade, and in the 1830s to establish a mission station, chose a site on the northern tip of the Te Papa peninsula. Rev. A.N.Brown purchased land from local Maori in September 1838 (17 acres at the most northerly tip of the peninsula) and a further 1,000 acres to the south in March 1839.6 Charlotte Brown died in 1855. Alfred re­married in 1860. His second wife, Christina Johnston, inherited the property on his death. She left “The Elms”, by this stage some 17 acres, to her sister and two nieces, Euphemia, Alice and Edith Maxwell. In 1913 much of mission station land was sold for housing, leaving only 2 ½ acres in the immediate vicinity of the historic buildings.7

2. The Elms mission house surrounded by mature trees in the 1960s.

4 Bellamy, A.C. ed., Tauranga 1882­1982 Tauranga, Tga City Council, 1982 5 Bay of Plenty Times March 2004 6 Brown, A.N. Journal, September 1838 and March 1839. 7 Vennel, C.W. Brown and The Elms Tauranga, Elms Trust, 1984

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A Fencible Cottage originally located on 3rd Avenue was moved onto the mission site in 1977. Although not part of the original mission buildings, it was nevertheless part of the early Tauranga township, having been brought down from Auckland in the 1870s for use by the Armed Constabulary.

The property is now owned by The Elms Foundation, a charitable trust established in 1997 for the sole purpose of managing and conserving the mission property for future generations.

Remaining Heritage The Elms is registered as a Historic Area by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust and in addition the mission house, library, kitchen and dairy are individually registered. The historic buildings and trees are also scheduled in the Tauranga District Plan. Arguably one of the most important heritage sites in the Bay of Plenty, the property was associated with the Brown family and their relatives for some 150 years. The historic buildings include the mission house, completed in 1847, the library (1839), the domestic services buildings (rebuilt in 1877 after a fire), coach house and a replica chapel (1963/4). The house and library contain collections of historic furniture, fittings, textiles and books associated with members of the Brown and Maxwell families.

Maintaining the established residential character around the Elms site is important. Some of the houses built in the 1910s, 20s and 30s remain, but are under pressure for redevelopment; however the streets retain an established character. Industrial development below the site has had a negative impact on views to the headland site on which this important historic complex sits.

Also related to this theme is the Mission Cemetery located at Mission Point on the site of Otamataha Pa. The site is included in the District Plan, important in relation to Maori Heritage, as an Archaeological site and a Historic site and landscape.

Lost Heritage The Native Institute was built in 1860/1861 by Revs. Charles Baker and George Clarke to teach local Maori how to run a farm in the European style. This building was used as a teaching and boarding school for only a short time before the land wars which started in the Waikato and spread to the Bay of Plenty forced its closure. It was taken over by the military first for use as a commissary, then as a hospital for the wounded of both races. After the British troops left it was used to house the offices of the government departments. Described in the Bay of Plenty Times as being in a precarious state, it was pulled down in 1874, when a larger building was erected housing the court room, post office etc. It was located between McLean and Harington Streets, fronting Willow Street, but set further back than the existing “Old Post Office”.

3. The Native or Mission Institute c 1870, with High Trees, built for Rev.E.B.Clarke on the left. It was owned by the Norris family at this time.

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Military Early in 1864 British troops arrived on the peninsula, and warships lay anchored off the beach. The troops urgently required a fortified position in case of attack by hostile Maori. The first site chosen was the cliff at the northern end of The Strand, previously the Taumatakahawai pa. It is believed that the first mission families also fortified this site in case of attack by Maori. This redoubt was occupied by the 43 rd (Monmouth) Light Infantry, and became known as the Monmouth Redoubt. It gave the occupying troops an excellent view across the harbour and along the peninsula to the south.

The 68 th (Durham) Light Infantry fortified a position on the western side of the peninsula, overlooking the Waikareao estuary. The troops lived in tents on mission land at the northern end of the peninsula. The name “The Camp” was used for this area well into the 20 th century. The neighbouring Domain was used as a parade ground.

With Imperial troops on the peninsula conflict was inevitable. The battle of Gate Pa (Pukehinahina) took place on 29 April 1864. To the dismay of the British troops the Maori won a resounding victory. However, a further encounter took place: on 21 June British troops surprised Maori who were in the process of fortifying a position at Te Ranga. This time the British troops were victorious. These battles provided a reason for the government to confiscate land in the western Bay of Plenty for military settlers. Members of the Waikato militia were mainly recruited from Australia, although some also joined in New Zealand.

4. Te Papa in 1864, with the Imperial troops occupying the redoubts and camping on the low lying land.

It was the establishment of the military settlement that changed the face of the Te Papa peninsula. As with the Fencible settlements in Auckland it was thought that men with military training would be prepared to defend their land against any possible future Maori uprising. Town lots of one quarter of an acre and larger farm lots were given to members of the 1 st Waikato Militia. The section of the township from 6t h Avenue to 11 th Avenue was known as “The Quarter Acres”. 8 Many of the street names chosen by the surveyors reflect the military nature of the township, e.g. Harington Street for Colonel Philip Harington, Cameron Road for General Sir Duncan Cameron, Hamilton Street for Captain John Hamilton of the naval brigade, after whom the city of Hamilton is also named.

8 G. (Chum) Denniston, personal communication

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 1 5 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

5. The Monmouth Redoubt in the 1910s, looking along Cliff Road towards Mauao.

Remaining Heritage Monmouth Redoubt still stands at the northern end of The Strand. A management plan is being prepared by Linda Walters. Work is being done on removal of some trees. Refer Steve Webb, arborist, TCC. The Redoubt is scheduled in the Tauranga District Plan as an archaeological site.

Discussion Views up toward the Redoubt from Dive Crescent help to understand the strategic importance of the Redoubt. A site currently used for car parking on The Strand below allows views towards the cliff and redoubt structure. Other buildings on Dive Crescent obscure views of this significant site. Achieving an appropriate balance would be desirable.

John Butler’s cottage on 9 th Avenue is a surviving example of the type of cottage built by the military settlers.

Lost Heritage The Durham Redoubt was levelled in 1877 and the fill was used to raise the level of adjoining roads, particularly Hamilton Street. It remained government land, and was known as the Market Reserve. An old house on the property was used as a museum by the Tauranga Historical Society until the establishment of the Historic Village museum. It was sold, and the Durham Motor Inn built on the site in 1992.

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 1 6 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

The topography of Tauranga The site of the city of Tauranga is defined by the harbour and the Te Papa peninsula. The narrowness of the peninsula has had a major effect on town planning as the city has expanded.

Changing landforms Reclamation Very early in the existence of the settlement changes were made to the beach on the eastern edge of the peninsula. The first businesses were established facing the harbour where the coastal ships unloaded their cargoes. However, easterly gales caused flooding, and the road way was non­ existent. The first reclamation took place in the 1870s, when a wooden sea wall was built. The reclamation was extended, and a concrete seawall constructed about 1902.

Even more major changes took place in the early 1920s, to allow the construction of a railway track. A considerable amount of reclamation took place along the Strand for this project. Land was also reclaimed to the north of Marsh Street for a railway yard. This turned out to be the beginning of the Sulphur Point industrial area, which affected the views from the historic mission property and cemetery. A cutting was made to allow the railway line to pass to the west and cross the Waikareao Estuary. The resulting fill was used to reclaim land along Dive Crescent and on Sulphur Point. The railway cutting divides the Mission Cemetery from the former Mission Station and the heritage areas on Cliff Road.

Two wharves were built, one in 1870 at the foot of Wharf Street, and a private one five years later at the base of Harington Street. The town wharf, later called Coronation Pier to commemorate the coronation of George VI was modified and extended with each reclamation. The Victoria Wharf was demolished in the 1920s for the railway reclamation.

6. The wharves, c. 1915.

Further estrangement of the business district from the harbour took place in 1962 with the construction of a large parking area at the southern end of the Strand, on the eastern side of the railway line, followed by a similar reclamation to the north of Wharf Street in 1972.

Sea cliffs The flat area fronting the harbour was initially bounded by several sea cliffs. The most northerly one became the Monmouth Redoubt, and as such is still visible. A central rise, about the north western side of the Wharf Street /Willow Street intersection was originally the site of a house built in the 1860s for Henry Tacy Clarke, Civil Commissioner. The curved nature of the higher land is visible on

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 1 7 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y early maps. The house was shifted, and the height of the cliff reduced somewhat when the Town Hall was built in 1914. The remaining height was removed after the demolition of the Town Hall, when the Civic Arcade was constructed in 1988.

7. Town hall, corner Wharf and Willow Street, c. 1916, showing how high the land remained even after levelling for the construction.

Water courses Remains of estuarine plants were uncovered when work was done on the Spring Street Mall about 15 years ago. 9 This was where a stream which started in Elizabeth Street near the junction with Grey Street entered the harbour. Chum Denniston, who arrived here about 1905 as a small boy, remembered a duck pond on the North West corner of the junction of Willow and Spring Streets, where Thomas Wrigley had built the Spring Well Brewery.

Spring Street was so named for the spring there. It provided drinking water for nearby homes by means of a hand pump, and water for livestock from a trough. Nearby businesses were a brewery and a cordial factory which availed themselves of the running water. There is no longer any visible sign of the stream or pond, but the building in this area used blue gum piles for foundations because of the damp conditions.

8. Spring Street c.1913. The new gas street lamp can be seen on the corner. The pump and trough are still visible on Spring Street.

9 Personal communication from Des Kahotea, archaeologist

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 1 8 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y A well on the Domain provided drinking water for the troops, as did another at the end of The Strand below the Redoubt. These no longer exist.

Remaining Heritage The heavily modified Coronation Pier, which has recently been deemed unsafe, is on its original alignment. It has been partially closed. (It is likely to disappear with the waterfront developments)

It should be possible to relocate the concrete top of the 1902 sea wall. (Refer Graham Baker, Project manager for Edgewater Development, now Business manager, Tauranga City Libraries)

The sea cliffs below Monmouth Redoubt and along Cliff Road are visible from The Strand below. A site currently occupied by parking allows good views to the Redoubt and cliffs. Enabling views to the cliff and redoubt is considered important.

Lost Heritage Elements no longer remaining in the central area include sea walls, Victoria Wharf, the spring and water courses.

Significant events which have shaped Tauranga Key events which have shaped development in Tauranga include the following: • Arrival of missionaries in 1830s • Military presence and battle of Gate Pa 1864 • Live stock on farms fail to thrive due to “bush sickness” • Railway workshops established at Mount Maunganui in 1910 • Railway link to Auckland made in 1928. Northern Steamship Company cancelled passenger connection shortly thereafter. • Top dressing with cobalt prevented bush sickness • Dairy industry in the Bay of Plenty • Development of logging industry in Bay of Plenty • Choice of Tauranga as main port for Bay of Plenty in 1950s • Export of timber and dairy products • Kiwifruit industry • Local government amalgamation in 1989

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THEME I – THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE Overview and Discussion­ What places related to this theme are currently identified? Are there other places which may be of value? Are there recommendations for potential management or future research? This theme includes the origins of the land, early Maori associations and settlement, arrival of Europeans and meeting of cultures, establishment of the mission station, conflict and confiscation of land and the military settlement in Tauranga. It also provides an overview of how the topography has changed as the urban settlement developed. Archaeological sites including Te Papa Pa, Monmouth Redoubt and the Elms mission station are noted as being among the most significant cultural, historical and archaeological sites in Tauranga city. Surveys have identified evidence of occupation in a much broader area on the peninsula and further archaeological investigation and monitoring when redevelopment occurs was recommended in the 2004 Archaeological Survey prepared for Tauranga City Council. Although the land form in central Tauranga has been modified some areas remain which provide evidence of its early form including the cliffs along the eastern side of the Waikaraeo estuary, Otamataha (mission cemetery) Taumatakahawai (Cliff Road) banks below Devonport Road, and areas around the west side of Durham Street.

Existing listings related to this theme in/ close to the town centre include: A number of significant places and sites are currently recognised which relate to this theme including: The Elms Mission station and historic buildings Monmouth Reserve and Te Tapihana (1815 Naval gun) 7 Cliff Road Otamataha Pa /Mission Cemetery

Potential Management/ Further possible research: Archaeological surveys and recorded sites reveal an extensive archaeological resource in the central business district with potential to add significantly to an understanding of the formative years of Tauranga city, including pre­ European Maori activity on the peninsula. These early cultural, historical and archaeological sites represent a non­renewable resource, and ongoing assessment and monitoring during redevelopment was recommended in the Archaeological Survey (2004), particularly in the central business district north of First Ave.

Maintaining or enhancing views to significant landforms and historic landscapes such as views to Monmouth Redoubt/ Cliff Road helps to understand the original topography and strategic use and occupation of sites. Future redevelopment along Dive Cres. should aim to enhance visual and physical connections where practicable.

The long association of the site at the northern end of the Strand initially with the Maori Hostel (1873, 1901) and later with the Maori Community centre (1967), Tauranga Moana Maori Trust Board Offices (1991) and collective values with adjacent Te Urunga and Te Awanui waka should be recognised, potentially through their inclusion in the Heritage Register, in consultation with Tauranga Moana Maori Trust Board and the community. These places are currently included in the heritage walk brochure for the CBD.

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 2 0 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

THEME II – THE BUILT CITY Establishing the city The main events which caused the establishment of the city were the battles of Gate Pa (29 April 1864) and Te Ranga (21 June 1864). As a direct result of these encounters, the government confiscated the land in the western Bay of Plenty. Because the Church Missionary Society had already purchased the Te Papa peninsula, central government forced the CMS to part with 4/5ths of the land they owned. Had this not been possible, the military township would have been established at the northern end of the Te Puna peninsula, which was also accessible by ship.

Allocation of town and farm lots was made to soldiers of 1 st Waikato Militia in the late 1860s. However, the farm lots were located in rugged country inland. Both surveyors trying to establish boundaries and settlers attempting to reach their farms were the subject of hostile action by Maori.10 As a result many farms were not broken in. Officers were allocated farms closer to the townships of Te Papa and Greerton, but as career soldiers they left their farms when they left New Zealand. The earliest newspaper records settlers leaving by the boatload. 11 The settlement failed to flourish for its first 30 or 40 years. The expected trade from farming did not materialise, as livestock failed to thrive, due to Bush Sickness. It was only in the 1930s that the cause was found – a lack of the trace element cobalt – and rectified by top dressing.

However, far­sighted councils in early 20 th century undertook significant public works, including the establishment of a gas works on Grey Street (where Hallensteins is now) and power stations in the Kaimai ranges. Lloyd Mandeno, a very important figure in electrical development both in New Zealand and overseas, was appointed Borough Engineer in April 1915. He was responsible for building the first all electric house, even designing an electric water heater especially for the project. Built in 1915 for Mr Ready it is unfortunately no longer in existence.

Building the city With the allocation of town lots to military settlers, the resident population increased dramatically. Residential sections were a quarter of an acre in size. This led to the name “The Quarter Acres” being used for the area between 4 th and 11 th Avenues. The northern portion between Park Street and Hamilton Street was known as “The Camp”, for the military camp which had been located there. The concept of the quarter acre section has gradually changed over time with infill housing and redevelopment of residential areas.

10 Jenks, Harold Forgotten men: the survey of Tauranga and district1864­69 Tauranga Historical Society 1991 11 Tauranga Argus

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 2 1 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

Plan of the Town of Tauranga dated c1865 shows existing buildings and features in the area of the existing city centre with the rectilinear alignment of proposed roads and sections overlaid. Auckland City Libraries Map Number 4498­4

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 2 2 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

Plan of Tauranga 1878, showing Church Missionary Society land shaded green and purchased land shaded yellow. Part Map number 4243, Auckland City Libraries

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 2 3 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

Enlargement of Part of Map Number 4243, Auckland City Libraries.

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 2 4 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

Section 1 Tauranga Town, 3 rd Edition, S. Percy Smith, Assistant Surveyor General, Auckland September 1883

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 2 5 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y

Plan of Church Mission Lots in Tauranga, possibly dated 1865, Map Number 4498­24, Auckland City Libraries.

The population remained around 1,000 residents for the first 40 years of its existence. After 1910 things began to improve, although by 1941 the census showed just 3910 residents. Most increases of population came about by adjacent areas of Tauranga County being added to the borough. (see table above) The establishment of the port at Mount Maunganui and the addition of Greerton to the borough caused significant increases in population.

As in many other North Island towns, wood was the preferred medium for building. In some cases corrugated iron was used for walls. Many fires damaged the central area, and an attempt was made to encourage the use of brick. After the disastrous fire which destroyed the government building and all early records in 1902, the replacement was a double brick cavity building.

By far the majority of houses were single storey. Exceptions are Topcroft, originally on Edgecombe Road, now Ranginui Road, Welcome Bay; the properties built for the Revs Baker and Clarke, the Mission House, Taiparoro on Devonport Road.

Since the 1960s several high rise blocks have been built in the central area. The first were apartment blocks on Cliff Road and Elizabeth Street. More recently Devonport Towers, with its mix of residential and hotel accommodation, and Kingsview apartments on Hamilton Street.

DEVELOPMENT OF COMMERCIAL AREAS

The Strand and CBD The first businesses were established along The Strand and Wharf Street. Devonport road contained a mix of residential and business premises, with the businesses mostly clustered at the junction with Spring Street and The Strand. This has gradually changed, with residential dwellings disappearing from the town centre. A number of early hotels on The Strand were destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the early twentieth century and some of these remain. The Strand is no longer a centre for daily business, with a preponderance of restaurants, cafes and bars taking over from the earlier chemists, drapers, bakers etc. However, recent moves to build multi story apartments on Devonport Road and Hamilton Street have seen small dairies and a large fruit and vegetable store opening.

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9. The Strand 1918. The Triangle buildings can be seen far centre, and the Rail Bridge is under construction at top left.

Joseph Brain’ boatyard at the base of the Monmouth Redoubt, Tauranga, Victoria and Town Wharves in the distance, c 1909.Tauranga District Library, 01­564

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The Star Hotel which was located on the corner of Devonport Road and Spring Street. Auckland City Libraries.4­RIC62.

The government building, which housed the post office and other government departments, was located on Willow Street, between McLean and Harington Streets.

10. The brick Government buildings, Willow Street about 1920.

Light industry existed side by side with stores: in the 1880s there was a cordial factory on the corner of Grey Street, a brewery on the opposite side of the road. In 1909 the gas works was built half way down Grey Street, and a blacksmith’s shop was located next to the 1938 post office building for many years. It was demolished in 1969 12 , and then re­erected at the Tauranga Historical Society’s museum on the Market Reserve, before being shifted to the Historic Village and Museum in 1977.

12 BOP Times 4 August 1969

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11. The gas works on Grey Street, showing the gasometer on the left

The two wharves (1870 and 1875) were the focus of much activity before the railway link to Auckland was made in 1928. This kept the focus of business activity on the waterfront. The railway line was originally intended to pass along Elizabeth Street, and run along the “Back Beach” on the Waikareao Estuary. Pressure was brought to bear by local business men, who asked that it be brought along the Strand, so that potential customers would alight right outside the shop doors.

When the reclamation that was made below the cliffs (Dive Crescent) to allow the railway line to run that way, railway wharves and sheds were built on the harbour’s edge. Ships carrying cement still unloaded into a cement silo below the Monmouth Redoubt into the 1980s, well after the commercial wharf was operating at Mount Maunganui.

Survey of Tauranga city in 1934 by G Duncan. Tauranga Library. (Enlarged sections of maps in appendices.)

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A survey drawing of the city by G Duncan made in 1934 shows that most of the commercial and retail development was focused along The Strand, particularly in the two blocks between Spring Street and Hamilton Street. The banks were built on the corners at the intersection of Wharf Street and Willow Street. The city contained a practical mix of shops, fruiterers, boot makers, drapers, clothier’s, furniture makers, paint shops, Loan and Merc. Offices, garages as well as hotels, tea rooms, billiard rooms. It records whether buildings were built of brick or timber or clad in corrugated iron, as well as where sheds and outhouses were. The Gasometer can be seen in Grey Street. A number of the buildings shown on this survey plan still remain, particularly near the lower part of Devonport Road and along the Strand.

12. The new post office on the corner of Grey and Spring Street soon after its completion.

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 3 0 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y In 1938 a new Post Office in the Art Deco style was opened on the corner of Spring Street and Grey Street.

The Town Planning Act 1926 made it mandatory for all boroughs with a population greater than one thousand to submit a scheme to govern all building by 1 January 1930, to the Town Planning Board. The Town Planning Board was set up under the Town Planning Act 1926 to approve planning schemes prepared by local authorities. In 1942 the administration of planning passed from the Department of Internal Affairs to the Ministry of Works which created a Planning Division. The 1934 survey plan by G Duncan was probably prepared as part of the preparatory work undertaken for the first town plan for Tauranga, which did not become operative until 1969.

It is interesting to note how the zones put in place in this first town plan have influenced built development. Height limits in the commercial core were initially set at 80 feet (approximately 6 levels) but were reduced to 30 feet in an early plan change.

Zoning introduced in the first town plan has influenced development. For example the early residential nature of Cameron Road changed with the introduction of the Commercial B zone, and industrial zones between Elizabeth Street and Fourth Ave (purple), as well as in the central core (blue).

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Following is a brief summary from the City of Tauranga District Scheme planning maps for 1969

Zone Areas Commercial B1 Comprised the core of the Central Business District including Predominately shops, cafes, The Strand, both sides of Devonport Road, Grey Street bars The height limit was set at 80 feet initially (approx 6 levels) although this appears to have been reduced to 30 feet Height limit in an early Plan Change document. Commercial B Cameron Road from Hamilton Street to and beyond 11 th Avenue (but not extending back from Cameron Road frontage)

Industrial A Parts of Durham Street, central part of Elizabeth Street, 1 st Bakeries, car sales yards, Avenue, northern part of 2 nd Avenue between Devonport and commercial garages, Cameron Roads Industrial B Glasgow Street between Elizabeth Street and Third Avenue. Max height 30 feet. Residential C Mission Street to McLean Street mainly residential Residential B The Avenues, Edgecumbe Road, Devonport Road between 2n d Avenue and 11th Avenue

Remaining Heritage The Old Post Office (Government Buildings) on Willow Street. This is the third building on this site. The first was the mission institute built about 1869/61, which was demolished in 1874. The wooden building, erected in 1875 to replace it burned down in 1902. The present building started in 1905 after many representations to the government complaining about the lack of suitable accommodation for public offices, was completed in 1906. The clock, added in 1907, was dedicated to Prime Minister Richard Seddon. The Old Post Office is scheduled in the District Plan and Registered by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust. Number 1 The Strand (Old Bond Store) was constructed in 1886 as a Bond Store for goods on which excise duty had to be paid. Built by J.A. Mann, it was one of the few brick buildings in the borough. The interior has been modified. It above all other buildings, exemplifies the residents belief in the future of Tauranga as an important port. It was sold in 1999 and became a restaurant. The Bond Store is scheduled in the District Plan.

13. The Bond Store (right at the northern end of The Strand when it was owned by Guinness Bros, c. 1960s

T H E M A T I C H I S T O R Y ­ P A G E 3 2 C E N T R A L T A U R A N G A : H E R I T A G E S T U D Y St Amand Hotel is the only other commercial building in the CBD which is scheduled in the District Plan and registered by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust. Built in 1877 it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1916 to a design by architect H. Clemson and is the oldest remaining hotel in Tauranga.

The City Council administration building was erected in 1971, and is typical of the public building of that period. The interior has been extensively modified. It has been connected to the new civic blocks built in 1989. In 2004 new offices were built on top of the original civic building, and the council chambers relocated there.

Many of the facades of shops on Devonport Road are original, and indicate date of construction e.g. Northern Star building, or name of owners e.g. Teasey building.

Lost Heritage None of the original bank buildings have survived. Photos taken about 1910 show the imposing Bank of Australasia on the south east corner of Willow and Wharf Streets, but it was later demolished.

The Town Hall built in 1914 on the north east corner of Willow and Wharf Streets, was demolished in 1987 in the face of much public opposition for the construction of the Civic Arcade, including a new library building.

Shops have been built on the sites of the gas works and the cordial factory on Grey Street.

Discussion: The current recognition of only three commercial buildings in the CBD is not an adequate reflection of the range of historic themes or the contribution that surviving places make to the collective character of Tauranga’s CBD. While the central commercial area has progressively developed it does still retain clusters of early twentieth century retail and commercial buildings, particularly in Devonport Street and close to the intersection of Grey Street and Spring Street. These places contribute to the collective character of the central area an understanding of Tauranga as an established centre which has continued to develop. There is no particular encouragement to retain these places. Some of these places have been previously recognised by their inclusion in the Heritage Management Strategy for Tauranga prepared in 1993 however the lack of any formal recognition or control potentially leads to the impression that they are not of great value. Options to encourage the retention of more of Tauranga;’s early retail and commercial buildings including non statutory techniques should be explored.

PUBLIC OPEN SPACES AND GARDENS

The Domain. What is now the cricket ground at the northern end of the Domain was originally known as the High School Reserve. In 1945 a co­educational college was opened at Hillsdene, 13 th Avenue and a Transit Camp was built on the former High School reserve for returning soldiers and their families. This was pulled down in the 1950s. The area was added to the Domain and made into a cricket ground.

The main part of the Domain was gifted to the Borough of Tauranga by central government in the 1870s. There is a Domain management plan.

The Wharepai Domain is the southern part of the reserve. It is so named because there was a boarding house of that name run by David Asher on Hamilton Street, its southern boundary. The name “Wharepai Domain” is sometimes used incorrectly to refer to the whole of the Tauranga Domain.

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14. Bowling Club, Wharepai ground, Tauranga Domain in the 1920s.

The Domain is scheduled in the Tauranga District plan, significant for natural and built heritage. In addition the War Memorial Gates and Canon Jordan Statue are scheduled. The gates are also registered by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust.

The Monmouth Redoubt

Monmouth Redoubt still stands at the northern end of The Strand. The site (previously the Taumatakahawai pa) above the cliff at the northern end of The Strand was chosen in 1864 by British troops to create a fortified position in case of attack by hostile Maori. This redoubt was occupied by the 43 rd (Monmouth) Light Infantry, and became known as the Monmouth Redoubt. It gave the occupying troops an excellent view across the harbour and along the peninsula to the south. A management plan is being prepared. Work is being done on removal of some trees. (Refer Steve Webb, TCC.)

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Cliff Road Rose gardens and former netball courts. Robbins Park. (Council leaflet gives history). The Rose gardens were created in 1950s by the Bay of Plenty Floral Society The Begonia House (glass house) remains in the gardens, and was open daily to the public. The arbour along the cliff top is contemporary with the development of the gardens and a significant feature of the garden, framing views to and from the Rose Gardens.

15. The rose gardens, Robbins Park, Cliff Road in the 1970s. The statue of the little boy was vandalised, and is no longer there.

View of the arbour and the Begonia House in Robbins Park.

Memorial Park. Before 1950 the area no known as Memorial Park was a swampy, open area used for bowling greens and market garden. In the 1950s the money for a World War 2 memorial was claimed from central government. A war memorial was erected near the Devonport Road entrance. A new memorial was erected in a more open area off the Fraser Street corner.

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16. Aerial view of Tauranga in 1937. The open area which became Memorial Park is visible on the left.

View of Memorial Park and from the waterfront edge of Memorial Park towards the harbour.

A camping ground used to operate on the northern section of the reserve. It was the site of the Sound shell, fondly remembered by older residents for the entertainment provided over the Christmas and New Year holidays. A young Kiri Te Kanawa once sang there.

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17. Memorial Park playground soon after it was established. The old favourites of engine and rocket have been replaced with modern play equipment.

It contains a children’s playground, a miniature railway, a roller skating rink, a swimming pool and a putting course. A rotary club erected a fountain near the water’s edge. (Date)

Faulkner Park This park located off Robins Road (off Waihi Road) is named for the Faulkner family, descendants of trader John Lees Faulkner. Eric Faulkner, great grandson of J.L. Faulkner and his second wife, Elizabeth Humphreys, lived in Montgomery Street. Eric was Mayor of Tauranga from 1977 to 1980.

The Elms gardens The tranquil gardens at The Elms, which include many mature trees, are open to the public. The Elms is registered as a Historic Area by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust and in addition the mission house, library, kitchen and dairy are individually registered. The historic buildings and trees are also scheduled in the Tauranga District Plan.

Sports Fields The first place used for organised sport was the Tauranga Domain. Originally gifted to the Borough by central government for public gardens, there was no money to develop the site. It was leased for grazing and the conflict between sports and cattle cause some aggravation among residents.

The site set aside for a public secondary school, the most northerly part of the Domain, is now a cricket pitch. Rugby and soccer are also played with the Domain. The Tauranga Bowling, croquet and tennis clubs also have grounds there.

The Tauranga ladies bowling club, now closed down, had a club house on Cliff road next to the Rose Gardens. Netball/tennis courts were located on the northern side, but petanque is now played there.

Memorial park was also used for soccer, but the low lying nature of the ground made it boggy and unsuitable.

ADORNING THE CITY As Tauranga’s population was small, and not wealthy, there were few benefactors, except, for example, Sir Robert Owens, who purchased and donated paintings. The Tauranga City Council owns a significant art collection, including carvings, some of which can be seen by the public. The

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