Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Official newspaper Winter 2015-2016

Alpenglow

Visitors pose for a photo during Winterfest last year. Park-based events this year take place on Saturday, Feb 27. More at http://go.nps.gov/Winterfest NPS PHOTO / JAY ELHARD Denali delivers big shoulder season experiences by Jen Jackson snap of the bushes and the sharp plunk of Park Road is an unmatched adventure. Park Ranger, Interpretation berries hitting the bottom of a bucket. The The swish of skis is replaced by the sound air holds a spicy and savory smell as fallen of one’s own heartbeat when you stop to ead any travel website or tourist leaves return to the soil. breathe in the glow of this vast landscape. blog and you’ll see an endless Maybe that most haunting and beautiful R series of posts extolling the While snow can fly at any time, autumn of sounds, a wolf’s howl into the night sky, virtues of visiting Alaska in summer and offers still-excellent hiking and wildlife will reward you for making the outing. NPS PHOTO / DANIEL LEIFHEIT advising against an “off-season” trip to the viewing. On or off trail one may encounter 49th state, as if there is nothing here but the skitter and squeak of a fat Arctic The most special of off-season Road crews begin plowing the Park Road snow and cold and closed storefronts to ground squirrel taking in his last meals experiences is reserved for the bravest of in February. Weather permitting, access greet you. But I know, as most Alaskans before a long winter sleep, or perhaps souls. Those willing to sleep outside in opens to Mountain Vista (Mile 12) by do, that despite a reduction in services, the chatter of the red squirrel warning sub-zero temperatures extoll the virtues mid-February, the Savage River (Mile 15) October through April are some of the you off a hard-won stash of spruce cones of winter camping — tingly fingers and as early as the first weekend in April, and most magical and memorable months and mushrooms that will keep him fed toes in front of a crackling fire, frozen the Teklanika River (Mile 30) a week or to travel in our state and visit Denali through the harsh months. Fall brings an noses and frosty hair over morning two thereafter. The last day of off-season National Park and Preserve. opportunity to watch male ungulates — oatmeal and coffee, vast open spaces, adventures is May 19, the day before such as Dall sheep, moose, and caribou solitude and adventure. regular schedules of shuttles and tours — make displays of power and aggression begin venturing farther into the park. as they prepare for the rut. The thunk of sheep horns or clatter of moose antlers is a truly awesome sound and the sight of rippling muscle and fur on impact can never be forgotten.

The sights, the smells and the feel of And maybe, just maybe, it is those darkest Denali are just different in the quiet and coldest months in the depths of months. In late September, when shuttle winter that provide the greatest chance buses have stopped running and while to experience Denali National Park and weather allows, you can drive all the way Preserve in its most wild and peaceful to Teklanika River at Mile 30, then walk moments. December through February as far as you please down the Park Road, all of the Alaska Range wraps itself in a enjoying this wild place without the din of sparkling white cloak to match its highest engines and crowds. peak, Mount McKinley. In contrast is the deep green of white spruce dotting In fall, Denali is more muted, but grander the landscape, evoking a sense of an old Skiers return to the entrance area after they arranged to be NPS PHOTO / KENT MILLER somehow. The mountains are painted in back-and-white photo. But then on the dropped off by private plane more than 90 miles west in Kantishna. the faded rust of the season’s dying colors horizon, you may see bouncing balls of and capped with the season’s first snow, color, sled dogs wearing blue, green and Denali’s fairy tale beauty persists through which defines the curves and edges of red harnesses with pink tongues wagging, spring. By March there are more than these glacially-carved massifs. Cranberries chomping and tromping and panting as a 12 hours of daylight for you to play in a are ripe and sweet following the frost musher calls “gee” and “haw” on the trail. wonderland of snow and enjoy moments and in the crisp air of the early morning when you truly feel you have this crown it seems all one can hear is the shush and In the pre-dawn hours of January, one jewel park all to yourself. hears nothing and everything all at once. Chickadees make a sweet, sharp call Throughout the off-season, camping in the across the boreal forest as your snowshoes Bear Loop of Riley Creek Campground Local Services, Tours, Flightseeing ...... 2 crunch on the crust of snow and, if you is free on a first-come basis. Running water, stop and wait for a few moments, even the restrooms, a warm fireplace, and permits Winter Safety Advisories ...... 3 snow will greet you with a tinkling, like for overnight stays in the backcountry Artist-in-Residence Program ...... 4 the chimes of tiny frozen bells. are available daily 9 am to 4:30 pm at the Cultural History Features ...... 5 Winter Visitor Center (Murie Science A winter evening can be equally as and Learning Center) at Mile 1.4 of the Visiting the Sled Dog Kennels ...... 6 enchanting. With the full moon, skiing the Denali Park Road. Caribou NPS PHOTO / KENT MILLER Entrance Area Trails ...... … 8 Winter Visitor Centers Group Activities

National Park Service Murie Science and Learning Center Welcome to Denali Reception – U.S. Department of the Interior Mile 1.4 Park Road Alaska Geographic staff can provide an Open 9 am to 4:30 pm daily. exclusive welcome and orientation to Offers general information, exhibits, presentations, backcountry permits, Denali for visiting groups at the beautiful Denali National Park and Preserve Alaska Geographic Bookstore. Murie Science and Learning Center. Staff P.O. Box 9 Learn more at www.nps.gov/rlc/murie will provide a short presentation based Denali Park, AK 99755 907 683-2294 on the interests and time schedule of your group. For availability and pricing, E-mail Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station NPS PHOTO / DANIEL LEIFHEIT please call 907 683-6432. [email protected] B Street in Talkeetna Open 9 am to 4:30 pm daily. Complete a Junior Ranger Activity Book Guided Winter Explorations – Website Offers mountaineering information for the while you're visiting the park. Then show www.nps.gov/dena Alaska Geographic staff can facilitate Alaska Range, general information, exhibits, your work to a park ranger, take an oath, fun and educational Denali experiences Alaska Geographic Bookstore. 907 733-2231 and receive a badge. Learn more at Phone for visiting winter groups through http://go.usa.gov/DLj 907 683-9532, information line hiking, snowshoeing and skiing (skis Annual Pass Options 907 683-2294, park business not provided). The route and distance Denali NPP Annual Pass: $40 907 683-9649, TTY can vary based upon a group's abilities America the Beautiful Interagency Passes: and schedule. We custom tailor the Summer bus, campsite reservations Annual, $80 experience to your group’s interest in 800 622-7275 Nationwide Senior, $10 such themes as Winter Ecology, Winter 907 272-7275 International Access, Free www.reservedenali.com Annual Military Pass, Free Tracking, and the Science of Snow. Hot chocolate and tea can be provided Emergency Your Fees at Work One of winter's signature events across around a fireplace at the Murie Science Dial 911 Eighty percent of fee dollars collected in the park Interior Alaska, Winterfest 2016 is set and Learning Center. Minimum group return to Denali to pay for projects that have for the final week of February. size is eight. Availability is from January

Corrections or suggestions? an impact on visitor experience. Recent projects This long-running community-wide through April, with the Mountain Vista [email protected] include: informational signs, campground improvements, and trail erosion mitigation. event offers something for all ages, location usually opening by mid-February. interests, and abilities. Activities vary For availability and pricing, please call Stay connected @ from year to year. Events at the park, 907 683-6432. twitter.com/DenaliNPS hosted on Saturday, Feb 27, www.facebook.com/DenaliNPS www.flickr.com/photos/DenaliNPS typically include guided skiing and Your membership and purchases at www.youtube.com/user/DenaliNPS snowshoe walks, activities for kids, Alaska Geographic bookstores films, and dog sled rides. Warm up with support park interpretation The National Park Service cares for special hot drinks and light refreshments. and outreach programs. places saved by the American people More at http://go.nps.gov/Winterfest so that all may experience our heritage. www.alaskageographic.org

Services

Accessibility Gas and Propane Most restrooms are wheelchair Available at gas stations For current and complete lists of businesses that are authorized to offer guided activities in the park, accessible. Park films are open- 13 miles north in Healy, and please visit http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/business-with-park.htm captioned. Please advise staff of 29 miles south in Cantwell. needs when making a reservation. Find more information at Medical Winter Vehicle Tours http://go.usa.gov/gg54 The closest physicians and hospitals Two concessioners are authorized to provide road- are in Fairbanks. based interpretive tours in association with the park's Alaska Railroad Healy, Interior Community trial program to provide earlier access each February You can travel to Denali by rail from Health Center, located in the as far as the Mountain Vista Rest Area at Mile 12 of Fairbanks, Anchorage, or Talkeetna. Tri-Valley Community Center, 13 the Denali Park Road. Call 800 544-0552, or 907 683- miles north of the park on Healy 2233 in Denali, or 907 265-2683 Spur Road. Clinic hours are 9 Alaska Alpine Adventures (Anchorage, AK) in Anchorage. am to 5 pm weekdays. On-call 877 525-2577 provider for established patients www.alaskaalpineadventures.com Banks at 907 683-2211. PHOTO COURTESY OF IAN SHIVE The closest bank is in Healy, Traverse Alaska (Denali Park, AK) 13 miles north of the park on Talkeetna, Sunshine Glacier Landing Scenic Air Services Community Health Center, 907 505-0925 Healy Spur Road. Winter hours: Four businesses provide glacier landing scenic air tour Mile 4 of the Talkeetna Spur www.traversealaska.com 10 am to 3 pm Monday through services and glacier landing air taxi services in the Road. Open 9 am to 5 pm, Thursday, and until 5:30 pm park. Several also provide air taxi services to non- Monday through Saturday, with Fridays. 907 683-7750 Dog Sledding glaciated areas of the park, including Kantishna. For 24-hour answering service at One concessioner offers overnight sled dog a full list of air taxi companies call 907-683-2294 Child Care 907 733-2273. passenger service and overnight sled dog-supported or visit www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/ Located on Sulfide Drive in Healy, ski trips. flightseeing.htm Park Bookstore the Denali Preschool and Learning A small selection of books and Denali Dog Sled Expeditions (Healy, AK) Center is the only licensed day Fly Denali (Talkeetna and Healy, AK) interpretive products is available at 907 683-2863 care in the Denali Borough. Drop- 866 733-7768 the Winter Visitor Center (Murie www.earthsonglodge.com in childcare is offered year-round, www.flydenali.com 7 am to 6 pm, Monday through Science and Learning Center). Friday for ages 1 month to 12 Skiing Guides Sheldon Air Service (Talkeetna, AK) Post Office years. Documentation of current 907 733-2321 Located next to Riley Creek One company is authorized to offer guided skiing. immunizations is required, www.sheldonairservice.com or sign an exemption. Campground near the park North American Telemark Organization entrance. Open 10 am to 12:30 Contact 907 683-7789. (Waitsfield, VT) K2 Aviation (Talkeetna, AK) pm, Monday through Saturday. 802 496-4387 800 764-2291 907 683-2291 www.telemarknato.com www.flyk2.com

Scan this code with a free app on your Talkeetna Air Taxi (Talkeetna, AK) smartphone to link to trip-planning 800 533-2219 resources on the park website www.talkeetnaair.com http://go.usa.gov/WScT

2 Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska Park Regulations and Safety Advisories

Top 10 Things to Know For a safe and enjoyable visit, please become familiar with these important park rules and safety advisories.

K E E P W I L D L I F E W I L D Do not feed any wild animals, including birds. It is unhealthy for them, and encouragesNever aggressivefeed or behavior that may require management action. All pet approach wildlife Mfood, trash, coolers, and cooking tools must be kept secure unless in immediate use. We all have a shared responsibility to keep wildlife healthy and wild. îDo not approach wildlife. You must stay at least 25 yards (23 m) away from moose, sheep, wolves, and other animals. A distance of at least 300 yards (275 m) is required from bears. Regardless of distance, if any wild animal changes its behavior due to your presence, you are too close.

Moose are faster and much less docile than they appear. A cow moose with calves Mcan be especially unpredictable and hazardous. If a moose charges you, run away. Dodge quickly behind large trees, cars, or structures. If you are chased while caught out in PHOTO COURTESY OF MOLLY McKINLEY the open, zigzag or change direction often. Skiers trek from Kantishna to the park entrance in March 2013. As you explore park trails and wilderness areas, be bear aware. You are safer hiking in Mgroups. In areas of low visibility, make noise to avoid surprise encounters. Do not run from a bear. If you are going to spend significant time in the outdoors in Be Prepared to Experience Alaska, carry bear spray, and know how to use and dispose of it safely. Pets may be walked along the Park Road, in parking lots, on campground roads, along Mthe Bike Path from the park entrance to the visitor center campus, and the Roadside Extreme Weather Conditions Trail between the visitor center campus and Park Headquarters. Pets must be leashed with a lead that is six feet or shorter. Do not leave a tethered pet unattended. Owners must collect As changing weather conditions limit and dispose of pet feces. vehicle access westward into the park 2 Cross-country skiing is a peaceful, each fall, hiking remains a possibility as rewarding way to explore Denali, whether In developed areas, stay on established trails and paths. If you are hiking with a group long as there is no snow. The Park Road on an afternoon trip on sled dog trails _in areas where there are no established trails, spread out to reduce your impact on generally remains open to the Teklanika along the Park Road or on an extended the landscape. and Savage rivers until the first snow, trip into the backcountry. Telemark and hikers may set out from anywhere skiing and snowboarding involve Leave what you find. If you find a historic object, artifact, archeological feature or except designated wildlife closures. long climbs on foot, but are becoming increasingly popular in Denali. enatural curiosity, do not collect it. Federal regulations require that such discoveries remain in context. To help researchers and contribute to science, snap photos and carefully While there are no groomed winter trails note the location, preferably with GPS reference coordinates. in Denali, there are numerous unmarked Ä Different lengths of snowshoes routes suitable for snowshoeing, skiing, serve different purposes. A longer, Cyclists may ride on park roads, parking areas, campground loops, and a designated skijoring, and mushing. Lack of snow flatter shoe is ideal for traveling in very Bike Trail between the Nenana River and the Denali Visitor Center. is no indication of temperature. Be deep snow, while a shorter shoe with * prepared for winter’s arrival anytime, an up-turned toe is better for traveling Share the road. Pass no closer than three feet (1.0 m) to bicycles and pedestrians, and for extreme cold after mid-October. over an existing trail, across rougher %especially if your vehicle has large side mirrors. On gravel roads, travel at “no dust” Proximity to the Alaska Range creates terrain, or through brushy areas. speeds that do not kick up a plume that will wash over cyclists and pedestrians. If you see unpredictable and highly variable wildlife while driving, do not stop or impede the safe and free flow of traffic along any weather conditions. Be prepared to set Å Snowmachine use is not allowed portion of the road. Instead, park in an established pullout, and watch from a safe distance. your own course and be self-sufficient. in the old Mount McKinley National Park, which includes the Park Road. It is the responsibility of visitors to understand all applicable firearms laws before There are no telephones west of Park Snowmachine use is allowed in the entering the park. Federal law prohibits firearms in certain facilities in the park. Headquarters and cell phone service 1980 park additions for traditional M Those places are marked with signs at all public entrances. The park concessioner does not is unreliable. Rangers do not initiate activities. See page six, and contact allow firearms on tour buses. Passengers may carry a firearm on shuttle buses but it must be searches without a specific request. a park ranger for clarification. unloaded and stored in a locked container. Except as part of authorized hunting activities, Notify someone of your planned discharging weapons is strictly prohibited throughout the park. Learn more online at itinerary and expected time of return. http://go.usa.gov/Bcch

Winter Safety Strategies • Hypothermia, the critical lowering of the body’s core temperature, is signaled by these early symptoms: • Overconfidence can be the biggest shivering, numbness, slurred speech, danger. Be aware of the exertion loss of coordination, drowsiness, and required to travel in snow. Do not exhaustion. Avoid hypothermia by 25 yards 23 m 300 yards 275 m count on accomplishing more than a eating plenty of high-calorie foods, Moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolf, Bear few miles each day. drinking plenty of water, and staying active raptor nest, or occupied den site dry. Layer clothing for your level of • Traveling alone increases your risk activity to minimize sweating. dramatically. Any incident that immobilizes a solo traveler could easily Watch Wildlife Safely • Avalanches result from a combination of become fatal. Traveling in groups is snowpack, weather, and terrain factors highly recommended. Please observe these rules for minimum distance from wild animals to ensure their safety and which are frequently present in the yours. Any distance that alters the behavior of a wild animal is too close. Denali backcountry. Be aware of the • Moose may fiercely guard winter trails, dangers and avoid suspect slopes and Maintain minimum distances at all times. Resist the temptation to approach animals. particularly in deep snow years. Make Do not move to intercept an animal’s path. drainages. every effort to yield the right-of-way. Use binoculars or a telephoto lens to observe an animal’s natural behavior. Do not engage in • Overflow, thin ice, and weak snow photography if an animal moves closer than the minimum distance allowed. Remind others of • Frostbite occurs quickly at temperatures bridges along streams and rivers can their ethical responsibility when photographing animals. below freezing. Drink plenty of water cause an unexpected icy plunge. Carry and protect skin from exposure to cold. Please do not follow an animal at close distance with a vehicle. Motorists must stop and allow dry socks, clothes, and emergency an animal to cross the road safely. firestarter in a waterproof container. Avoid stressing wildlife. Animals living here are engaged in a daily struggle to find food, shelter, and water necessary for survival. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, such as when they are nesting, mating, or raising young.

Alpenglow, Fall 2015 to Spring 2016 3 Three Moose at Dawn

A cow moose comes around the corner through the snow. Yearling twins trail along in single file.

She’s HUGE and I stand at the door watching this locomotive of an animal John Kooistra Writer-in-Residence Winter 2015 the same as I would a freight train at a railroad crossing, lights flashing and the warning gate down.

This is a long moose I think and shut off the motor of my day while the three of them Denali Mountain Sunset, February 2015 move without hurry down their own tracks Camille Seaman and grow smaller. Artist-in-Residence Winter 2015 When the lights that aren’t there stop flashing and the gate rises, Since 2001, the Artist-in-Residence program has hosted 60 accomplished I remember where I am artists, writers, and composers. A winter program began in March 2014 and features a and restart the day stay at the historic Savage Cabin near Mile 13 of the Denali Park Road. Each residency takes place over a ten-day period and concludes with a public outreach activity. Eventually, but I’m clumsy each participant donates to the program collection one work of art that offers a fresh and getting things back into gear, innovative perspective of the park drawn from his or her own experience. Savage Cabin Interior, February 2015 the same as I’d be if the three camels More at http://go.nps.gov/DenaliArt of the wise men had just passed by following a star.

Sonja Hinrichsen NPS PHOTOS / KENT MILLER Artist-in-Residence Winter 2015

Artist-in-Residence Sonja Hinrichsen led two "Snow Drawing" events in March 2015. The first engaged local high school students on frozen ponds about three miles south of the park entrance. The second, in Fairbanks, was held in collaboration with the University of Alaska Museum of the North.

WORD SEARCH: FIND YOUR WINTER ACTIVITY

 Artist-in-Residence  Aurora  Bicycling  Camping  Flightseeing  Hiking  Kennels  Mountain Vista  Mushing  Photography  Skiing  Skijoring  Smores  Snowboarding  Snowmobiling  Snowshoeing  Star gazing  Visitor Center  Wildlife  Winterfest

4 Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska Answers found on Page 6 Ancient Technology Survives Subarctic Winters

by Emily McCuistion community. With these technologies and the late 1800s-1986, remembered a cache Archaeological Technician others, the people of interior Alaska could built by her grandfather. It was two stories make it through the harshest seasons. high and was built using standing trees. n the ancient past the technologies Other trees in the vicinity were cleared so of the first Alaskans in Denali People first migrated to the Denali area that squirrels couldn’t jump to it. Roots enabled them to live in subarctic at least 13,000 years ago. Only those were used to lash it together and the roof climates without the gear available things which are most tenacious in the was thatched with bark. Foods such as Itoday. Some indigenous technologies are archaeological record, primarily stone berries (often mixed with fat, which helped still in use and many have been adapted, tools, remain to tell the story of these first preserve them), root vegetables, dried meat such as modern snowshoes. Subarctic Alaskans. Though stone tools were used and fish were cached. The cold climate and Alaska demanded much of its occupants. year-round, inferences can be made about permafrost into which pits were often dug It required an intimate knowledge of the particular types of stone tools and seasonal surely helped preserve the food. Some of region’s geography, skills passed down hunting, thus expanding our understanding these pits are still visible on the ground. between generations, and advanced of how people were subsisting in the winter. preparation for winter. By studying several archaeology sites in Snowshoes: Snowshoe technology, Denali NPP Museum Collection conjunction, archaeologists are beginning which likely made its way from Asia long Elevated cache photographed in the 1940s In the past, people had to be highly mobile to understand a larger picture of past ago, has been widely used in Alaska for to survive. They travelled over hundreds of seasonal rounds. thousands of years. Snowshoes distribute Haynes, Terry L., David B. Andersen, Wm. E. Simone 2001 Denali National Park and Preserve: Ethnographic square miles and returned to familiar places weight across a greater surface area, thus Overview and Assessment. Fairbanks, AK, Alaska to obtain resources. Preparation for winter This chert microblade core was found in keeping you from sinking as deeply into Department of Fish and Game. would be underway by summer — fish Denali. The flakes removed left distinctive the snow. The snowshoe hare with its long, caught and game hunted and dried. Plant parallel scars. Blade technology was an furry hind feet illustrates this principle Potter, Ben A. 2011 Late Pleistocene and Early Holocene Assemblage foods too would be preserved for later use. efficient way of using well. Snowshoe designs were numerous. Variability in Central Alaska. In From the Yenisei to the stone material as it Different types of snowshoes were made Yukon: Interpreting Lithic Assemblage Variability in Late When winter arrived, semi-permanent maximized cutting for different snow conditions. Powdery Pleistocene/Early Holocene Beringia, edited by Ted E. villages were established, often in forested edges and minimized snow necessitated tighter weave for more Goebel and Ian Buvit. Texas A&M Press, College Station. areas and near clean water. People relied on waste of what may surface area contact with the supporting food they stored, as many Alaskans still do, have been scarce snowflakes. Long snowshoes have a “tail” to supplementing it with what was available and precious stone keep them pointed straight, and sometimes during the colder months, such as hares, material. It has have a kick-up in the front for deep powdery grouse, ptarmigan, and plant foods. Indeed been theorized that snow. Shorter, oval snowshoes were used some plants, such as wild potatoes, become microblades were used for hunting large on packed snow. Snowshoe frames could sweeter after first frost and can be harvested ungulates, such as bison and moose, in the be constructed with a variety of woods, throughout the winter. Frozen ground can fall-winter-spring seasons. (Potter, 2011) but flexible birch with straight grain was be thawed by building a large fire on top preferred by many. Sinew was used for of it. Medicinal plants such as labrador tea Caches: Caches were made to protect food webbing. Snowshoes today are often used and the cambium (inner bark) of spruce from animals and store it for winter. Caches for recreation, but they are also a tool to also would be consumed in the winter. in this area were usually underground pits allow mobility across a snowy landscape, be NPS PHOTO / NEIL BLAKE People gathered to share food at potlatches it individual transportation or for breaking or elevated structures. Abbie Joseph, an Nick Dennis of Nikolai, AK with a traditional — events for feasting and reuniting as a Athabaskan woman who lived here from trail in front of a dog team. snowshoe he made in 2009.

Park Celebrates Past as Army Recreation Camp

by Jessica Peterson During summer, recreational activities included hiking, horseback Archaeological Technician riding, fishing, softball, and miniature golf. Winter activities included sledding, skating, and skiing. The Army also provided a ski instructor an you imagine Denali with a downhill ski course and by the name of Corporal Jack Yokel, a national champion before tow rope? It might not be apparent now, but during the war. Now those ski slopes are covered in dense alder and as you World War II, soldiers in the U.S. Army had their walk the Mount Healy trail, these trees are a good indicator of where choice of outdoor activities here including downhill the original ski hill was located. skiingC a route along what is now the Mount Healy Overlook Trail. Combat operations in Alaska ended in late 1944 and the military Following the 1941 Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, what was presence was drastically reduced. On March 1, 1945 the camp closed known then as Mount McKinley National Park closed its doors and all staff vacated shortly afterwards. The park reopened to the to visitors. At the time, Alaska was still a U.S. Territory and during public in spring of 1946. the war all travel across its borders was monitored by military checkpoints. Tourist travel was not allowed. Today, some 70 years later, little evidence remains of the camp. The Park Hotel burned down in 1972 and many other facilities were Nationwide, funding for national parks was diverted for use by the torn down or renovated. The only original structure remaining from War Department, and parks began offering services to the military. this period is a yellow powerhouse located near today’s main visitor While conservation and preservation remained key to the NPS center. Occasionally, other materials related to this era are found, mission, the agency also addressed demands for war materials such including snowshoe fragments, ski poles, boots, and ski fragments. as timber and other natural resources. Several parks became training The history of the camp, the artifacts, and the altered landscapes that grounds or recreational camps for servicemen and at least one have been left behind are now a part of our own national heritage. served as a POW camp. Preserved and protected, they contribute to our understanding of Denali NPP Museum Collection, DENA 0022986 the multi-functional history of this park. A tow rope makes Mount Healy easier. For two years from 1943 to 1945, the park was set aside for the recreational use of about a hundred U.S. Army soldiers each week from Ladd Field, now Fort Wainwright, and Fort Richardson and also provided a mountain-rich arena for winter equipment testing. The Alaska Railroad contributed its facilities, including the Park Hotel, in a joint effort led by U.S. Army, Red Cross, Forest Service, and NPS staff.

“The first of those boys are at the park now, enjoying the life of millionaires,” describes a U.S. Army brochure. “At the cost of two dollars a day, the boys are doing what tourists have spent thousands of dollars to do—living at the foot of the majestic

Denali NPP Museum Collection, DENA 0022988 peaks of the Alaska Range.” Denali NPP Museum Collection, DENA 0023004 Soldiers attend a ski lesson. Soldiers at the Alaska Railroad Depot in 1943.

Alpenglow, Fall 2015 to Spring 2016 5 Historic Kennels Open Daily to Winter Visitors

In autumn, visitors are welcome The kennels are open daily to watch the park sled dogs train 9 am to 4:30 pm, with parking at for winter by pulling ATVs on headquarters at Mile 3.4. roads and loops of the Riley Creek Campground near the As you arrive, be sure to check park entrance. Check with staff in with kennels staff and read all at the visitor center to learn the posted safety information. kennels training schedule for • For the safety of your pets, the day. please leave them in your

vehicle while you visit the Please stop your vehicle if sled dogs. you see a team approaching. Ensure that pets are safely inside • Keep children at your side vehicles if you see or hear dog at all times. teams. For your safety, kennel staff discourages walking pets • If any dog acts excited in the campground while dog (jumping, barking, pacing) teams are training. or nervous, please visit another dog. Trails within the wilderness boundary of the park are put in and maintained by dog team only. They are narrow In winter, visitors to the kennels and have potentially soft, deep snow. Trails are not marked. Be prepared and able to put in your own trail and • Help train the park dogs to may see teams harnessing up have good manners. They safely navigate the terrain without a trail to guide you. You may encounter willow and alder thickets. Trail clearing and preparing to leave on a should not jump on you, or cutting is NOT allowed within the park. For additional information on rivers, overflow ice, aufeis, glaciers, and run, returning from a run, or chew on fingers, or eat any avalanches, go to http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/mushing.htm loading and unloading a dog human food. truck that is used to drive to Spring Trail: Difficult to Moderate Riley Creek: Moderate from Park Headquarters distant trailheads. This busy Steep and narrow. Winding through large trees with to Riley; Expert over the pass to Windy time of year, it's wise to ask at the Winter Visitor Center several stream crossings. Snow cover may not be Riley Creek/Park Headquarters area trails are about team whereabouts adequate for travel until spring. frequented by skiers and snowshoers. Prepare for shelf before you set out. ice, jumble ice, holes, and open water in the narrow Park Road: Easy to Moderate Riley Canyon. Avalanche terrain. Wide, open travel. Prepare for aufeis, side hilling, and windswept bare areas. West of Savage River the trail is North Boundary/Stampede Road: Easy mainly OFF the Park Road. Heavy equipment can be Traveled, packed trail used by snowmachines and dog on the road from Miles 3-7. teams. Several side trails cross the main trail. Trapline trails exist with traps in the trail. Wonder Lake/Kantishna Area: Easy to Difficult Clearwater/Awesome Pass: Difficult Trail opportunities are highly varied. Please speak Accessible by snowmachine outside wilderness with a kennels staff member for details. boundary. Prepare for overflow and glare ice on Clearwater and Moose creeks. Routefinding will be Windy Creek: Easy necessary over Awesome Pass. Cantwell entry trails are frequented by snowmachine and dog team. Beyond the Denali wilderness NPS PHOTO / JAYME DITTMAR boundary the trail may be less traveled or nonexistent. A ranger rests a team of sled dogs on an ATV training run.

Snowmachine Use Prohibited in Wilderness Areas Federal regulations require that riders do not: • Intentionally disturb or frighten wildlife All motorized vehicles are prohibited in Each winter the superintendent may open limited • Operate a snowmachine which is excessively noisy Å wilderness-designated portions of the park. areas to snowmachine access once it has been • Operate a snowmachine without a headlamp and red Snowmachining is allowed only for traditional activities, determined there is adequate snow cover to limit tail lamp one-half hour before and after sunrise/sunset including access to subsistence hunting and harvesting damage to vegetation and soil beneath the snowpack. or when weather reduces visibility to less than 500 feet areas, as well as to inholdings and villages in new park A combination of factors are considered, such as snow • Operate a snowmachine in excess of 45 miles per hour and preserve additions created by the Alaska National depth, snow structure, and characteristics • Race with other riders. Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) in 1980. of the vegetation. More at http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/ snowmobiling.htm

F C A M P I N G L U I W I N T E R F E S T P A G S N O W M O B I L I N G H R H M R B O T O S T A R G A Z I N G T S I U C O E S N H Y G E N T V I S I T O R C E N T E R I O A I K L A N W I N I I P S G B N R N N H M O V E G Y O U A I S R S R S S K I J O R I N G E H D T W I L D L I F E S I A I E N N N K E N N E L S G G G C S N O W S H O E I N G Answers to Word Search on Page 4 Fat tire cycling is increasingly popular on the Denali Park Road. NPS PHOTO / KENT MILLER

6 Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska “As far into this winter wonderland as you dare to dream” by Jennifer Raffaeli Kennels Manager

inter – when the buses stop running, the bears are in W hibernation, the rivers are locked underneath ice and the tundra is covered in snow – is indeed my favorite time of year up here. I may be biased in that opinion as the Kennels Manager as I am lucky enough to traverse this landscape with the best winter traveling companions you could hope for – sled dogs.

Kennels Manager Jennifer Raffaeli takes a team on patrol. Photo Courtesy of Camille Seaman, Artist-in-Residence 2015 I want to answer for you some of the most common questions from visitors year round. I hope to shed a little light on traditional dog Give your eyes a few minutes to adjust and wood or propane source of heat, propane Why does the park still use dog teams team travel in Denali and, more importantly, it becomes quite easy to see well in the dark lanterns for light, a simple cookstove, and a rather than snowmachines? encourage you to strap on snowshoes or skis and snow. I love a moonlight ski on the Park few bunk beds. I love the simple life in the The Wilderness Act of 1964 is the driving or find a dog team to take you as far into this Road or bundling up to watch the Northern cabins — no internet, no phones, no TV, force behind the continued use of dog winter wonderland as you dare to dream. Lights dancing overhead. The darkness just a good book to read by lamplight, good teams in Denali in this modern era. This holds so much beauty if we are willing to people to talk and laugh with, sweet dogs to legislation was used to designate the original But don’t you get cold? step out into it. cuddle with. It is very relaxing and I never two million acres of Denali as Wilderness, miss “civilization” when we are on the trail. Don’t the dogs get cold? the highest level of protection for federal How long are you usually out? lands. Wilderness areas prohibit the use of No, traveling by dog team is actually a very When we are out in the park the dogs sleep motorized or mechanized transport. There physically strenuous activity with very little How do you carry all your supplies? on drop lines in the snow outside the cabins. are an additional four million acres of land time standing on the runners. More often We usually go out for a minimum of a week They love digging a cozy nest in the snow that are park and preserve additions that are than not, one of the rangers is skiing or and up to four or more weeks at a time. and curl right up into little balls after dinner not designated Wilderness. snowshoeing in front of the teams to break Travel by dog team is slow and challenging to stay warm for the night. They are smart trail if the snow is too deep for the dogs. If as we work to establish routes through snow. to dig down into the snow as the ambient In addition to complying with law, there it's more than chest deep they start dolphin Our sleds are heavily loaded with all of our temperature there can be considerably are still many practical reasons to use dog diving. Our biggest challenge is keeping our backcountry gear and any project supplies. warmer than the air itself. If it is snowing teams in Alaska in winter. They can be extremities warm. We protect our faces with We are lucky to have a series of historic or blowing, the dogs will just let the snow more environmentally friendly since they fur ruffs on our hoods, balaclavas or neck ranger patrol cabins along the Park Road as accumulate on top of them to act don’t require fossil fuels to go. They are a gaiters. We protect our hands as a blanket. relatively quiet means of travel. They can and toes with big mitts, have less impact on the land itself. Dog overboots and chemical We do choose a couple of different teams start and go more reliably in subarctic hand and toe warmers. dogs each night to bring into winter conditions, such as extreme cold and the cabins with us. They LOVE overflow. And they are a whole lot more fun The dogs are well-adapted getting picked to be the center of to cuddle up with in camp at the end of the to the cold. They have a nice, attention inside, they love getting day than a snowmachine. Finally, sled dogs thick two-layer fur coat and to jump on the bed and get belly are a huge part of the tradition of Denali. fluffy tail to keep them warm. rubs and ear scratches, but they We’ve had working dog teams here since They also have special fats have a hard time with the warmth. 1922 when Superintendent Harry Karstens in their feet called neatsfoot We can usually warm the cabins purchased our first seven sled dogs. oil, which stay liquid up to 50 or 60 degrees above zero. even in extreme cold. In The dogs pant a lot and are more addition, their bodies have a What are you doing when you go out than happy to run back outside counter current circulation with the dogs? to join the rest of the dogs for system that allows them Photo Courtesy of Camille Seaman, Artist-in-Residence 2015 The dog teams are used to support a variety breakfast in the morning. to keep their legs and feet of projects throughout the park. A few comfortably a few degrees cooler than their recent projects we have worked on include: core. Both of these physical adaptations are well as on the north and south boundaries. What kind of sleds do you use? shared by other arctic and subarctic animals. We are able to stock the roadside cabins • Supporting the park glaciologist in with a winter’s worth of dog and human We build, maintain and repair our own monitoring the Traleika Glacier in toboggan-style sleds using a combination How do you handle food so that we can resupply as we travel winter. Very little is known about snow farther into the park. When we are on of laminated wood (usually ash or hickory) the darkness? accumulation and temperature on the an extended camping trip or setting up a strips, ultra high molecular weight (UHMW) glacier in winter as most monitoring is Truth be told, I think the darkness is remote campsite, we often have to take many plastic, and metal parts. Our sled beds are completed in the summer months. beautiful. The hardest month is November extra trips to shuttle supplies, equipment 8-12 feet long. Our sleds are very heavy duty, before the snow really falls, it feels dark and and food back and forth. We will often rig an built to withstand the rigors of hauling heavy • Hauling supplies for Trail Crew to build cold. Once we have snow on the ground it extra supply sled between the dog team and loads over tundra, gravel bar, ice, and snow. the bridge over Riley Creek and some really reflects a lot of light – sunlight and sled to carry more gear and equipment and We carry repair kits on the trail to fix and of the boardwalks and bridges on the moonlight. The dark feels cozy and quiet still safely maneuver the sled. replace parts as needed. Our freight hauling Horseshoe Lake trail. to me. It is a welcome respite after a manic sleds are much sturdier, heavier, and larger summer with 24 hours of daylight. I think Where do you stay? than the racing sleds you might see used in • Collecting scat as part of a study of our bodies need time to slow down and the Iditarod or the Yukon Quest. One of our mesocarnivore populations in the park recharge after a busy summer season and What about the dogs? sleds weighs about 150 pounds empty. (coyotes, lynx, foxes) and how their winter darkness allows for that. The secret We often stay in historic ranger patrol cabins population numbers correlate to changing to enjoying the dark is to go outside just as if they are along our project route. These wolf population numbers. you would in the daylight, and don’t use a cabins were originally built to be about a headlamp! You get caught in a circle of light day’s mush (20-25 miles) apart. They are and miss so much of the world around you. very simple one-room log cabins with a

Alpenglow, Fall 2015 to Spring 2016 7 − Bear Loop open for primitive camping m Restrooms

^ Parking To Healy, Fairbanks Horseshoe Lake Trail

Nenana Canyon Mount Healy Overlook Trail Winter Visitor Center m ^ North 0 0.3 Kilometers Park Road 0 0.3 Miles ^ Bike Path

Jonesville Trail Easiest More difficult Most difficult (snowshoes only advised) Taiga Trail Backcountry route − m

Trails are not groomed. ^ Be prepared to use skis or snowshoes. Post Office

Park Entrance Meadow View Trail McKinley Station Trail

Riley Creek George Parks Highway Roadside Trail

Rock Creek Trail Park Road Alaska Railroad

Triple Lakes Trail To Mountain Vista

Hines Creek m ^

Headquarters

Kennels

To Cantwell, Anchorage

Entrance Area Trails Park Road (Hiking/Snowshoeing) (Mushing/Snowshoeing/Hiking/ Trails have multiple uses. Upper section not Easy to moderate wooded terrain Skate and Backcountry XC Skiing/ Mile 14.75 But if you encounter ski tracks advised in snow. with some hills. Packed snow Skijoring) with occasional drifts. Roadside, One lane cleared to Mile 7, while you are walking or Meadow View, Rock Creek, suitable for skate skiing. Expect snowshoeing, please avoid Lower Savage Alpine Trail Taiga, Horseshoe Lake, and to encounter dog teams. May Park Road McKinley Station trails. encounter overflow ice. stepping on them.

Mount Healy Riley Creek Campground (Hiking/Snowshoeing) Open, level ground and loop roads Moderate on packed snow to a well-suited to family activities and Ä 2 Ski and Mushing Route set of trailside benches. At higher beginner skiing. elevations, expect deep snow drifts, exposed loose rock, ice Triple Lakes If you encounter accumulation, and high winds. (Backcountry XC Skiing/ Savage Cabin Trail dog teams or skijorers Snowshoeing) Moderate to Riley Creek and Hines Creek strenuous. From the trailhead at while you're on skis or (Backcountry XC Skiing) McKinley Village, travel north Non-maintained wilderness trails. snowshoes, please grant across the three lakes, then over Savage River May encounter shelf ice and open the low divide to Riley Creek. them the right of way. water that require route finding. Advanced skills required. Mile 12.5 Mountain Vista Trail

Access to this area begins in mid-February based on conditions Areas of transition between forest and tundra can be wind-swept. Your best skiing may be near trees. Try traveling up the Savage Alpine Trail about a mile, then break trail through the forest back toward Savage Cabin.

Mountain Vista Trail Lower Savage Alpine Trail

0.6 miles/1 km, 30 minutes 4 miles, 6.4 km 50 feet elevation change 2-3 hours one way 5% maximum grade 1,500 feet elevation change Up to 25% grade Savage Cabin Trail 2 feet wide Upper section not advised 0.8 miles/1.3 km, 30 minutes for travel in snow No change in elevation 5% maximum grade Ski and Mushing Route

Moderate rough unmarked route through willows to Savage River NPS PHOTO / KENT MILLER Displays of the aurora borealis, such as this one above the Park Road in March 2015, are produced as electrons and protons from the sun are pulled into the atmosphere by the earth's magnetic field and then collide with oxygen and nitrogen atoms. EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ 8 Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska