The Official Tourism Organisation

RAF Harrowbeer & The Woods of The scent of honeysuckle, fern and gorse will delight Many Hares your senses. The old railway track invites cyclists and horseriders and there is a challenging golf course with Alright, so close your spectacular views from every tee. Needless to say, eyes and picture the there are beautiful country pubs aplenty, with local ales unspoilt countryside and homecooked food to enjoy. Open fires when the of . It’s weather turns cold. More than anything, there is peace alright, trust me. and quiet. An escape from the stresses and noise of Close your eyes modern life. and allow your imagination to take But it wasn’t always like this. you here, to one of the most beautiful 75 years ago, the village of Yelverton became a hive of places in Southern activity. Unlikely as it might seem, this small moorland England. I bet I can community played host to an important RAF base. A guess what your busy one, with up to 2,000 servicemen and women mind now sees. stationed on the now quiet down. I bet that is harder to imagine but you can certainly try. Picture it, the sleepy Rugged tors call out to endless blue skies. Beneath countryside suddenly filled with the roar of aeroplane their granite gaze, the verdant heaths are dotted with engines, as Spitfires and Typhoons soar into the sky. free ranging sheep, cattle and the world famous ponies. You picture the dramatic rises near Sourton, To avoid confusion with the large base at Yeovilton, cloaked in heather and gorse. The rugged moors of Dartmoor’s new aerodrome was called RAF Princetown, where relics of the mining past sit beside Harrowbeer. It was officially opened on 31 August 1941, the remains of ancient man. The crystal waters of the in a classic case of the stable door being shut once the River Dart carve their way through on a timeless horse had bolted. For six months earlier, the city it was quest for the sea.The lush green pastures of the lowest designed to protect, , had been destroyed slopes are bathed in golden sunlight. by the Luftwaffe. Indeed, the very rubble from blitzed buildings was used to construct its twin runways. You see also the timeless beauty of Roborough Down as it sweeps like an emerald haze towards Dartmoor’s October ‘41 saw the first Spitfires arrive. The iconic highest peaks. The church tower at Shaugh Prior, fighters of No.130 Squadron had been donated by the romantic Plym Bridge, the mysterious crags of the state of Punjab. It was but the first of many multicultural Dewerstone. The bustling maritime city of Plymouth is acts in Harrowbeer’s proud history, for pilots from on our doorstep, her Barbican and historic Hoe, where occupied Europe were joined by brave volunteers from Francis Drake once played bowls, well worth a visit. Australia, Rhodesia, Canada and New Zealand. From But out here you wouldn’t know, for this landscape has all over the world came people determined to fight the remained largely untouched for thousands of years. threat of Nazi Germany.

It is a nature lover’s paradise, a walker’s paradise. Take Other planes stationed here included the Hurricane a deep breath and fill your lungs with good clean air. and Typhoon, which acquired the nickname ‘Tiffy’.

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These Tiffies were notoriously unreliable aircraft and Meanwhile, history buffs will find the remains prone to all manner of mechanical problems. It is not fascinating. Evidence of Harrowbeer’s wartime past so surprising therefore to learn that four were lost on exist in the brick shells of old hangars, the former takeoff and landing, five crashed onto Dartmoor and control tower which now serves as a tearoom and one into the tower of Yelverton’s parish church. patches of runway still showing through the grass. The officer’s mess was an imposing building named Local historian Dennis Teague (1928 - 98) recalled Ravenscroft. Today it is a nursing home, possibly seeing these aircraft at the base. helping one or two folk who once served their country in this very place. “Unless one actually experienced the sight of a fighter unit forming, it is hard to describe. A bang was followed by a puff of blue grey smoke until at last the huge four-bladed propellor churned around and the massive engine spluttered into life, accompanied usually by a streak of flame and cloud of smoke.

Each aircraft squeaked and groaned its way around until it was positioned for take off. Receiving the signal for the off, it roared down the runway and up into a sharp bank following the others and would join up in a large circle of as many as 30 planes. Whilst the last ones were taking off, the pack would be droning around Burrator Harrowbeer (or Harrabeer) is an old English word to . Finally, they would all form into a wedge meaning Wood of Many Hares. There are few trees shape and head off to the South East and the targets in left now, and even fewer hares, but what the village the Channel Islands.” does boast is the friendly hotel that takes its name. I visited Harrabeer Country Hotel with Emma the Needless to say, this formidable sight must have other night and enjoyed a delightful stay. It is an old made quite an impression on the mind of a teenaged building, dating to at least the 17th century, with lots boy from rural Devonshire. So much so that he was of interesting features. But then, lots of places on angered by the decision not to turn RAF Harrowbeer Dartmoor are. What really sets the Harrabeer apart are into the proposed City of Plymouth Airport once the its hosts, Michael and Amanda Willats. Many people war ended. claim to offer the personal touch but for this couple it comes naturally. You really do feel like treasured Enjoying the peace and quiet of the place nowadays, guests staying in their home. it is unlikely that many will agree with his belief that a great opportunity was lost in returning the site to The Harrabeer dates from at least the 17th century, moorland. Harrowbeer is a great spot for a picnic although parts might be a lot older. It originally served or gentle stroll and the famous Roborough Rock as a Devon Longhouse, a very traditional type of has felt many a child climb to its top. During the farmhouse once common in the area. During Regency summer months, when an ice cream van is an almost times, it appears to have been gentrified somewhat permanent fixture, the site is bathed in nostalgia. and the decor is in keeping with that era of good times and good living. Very appropriate for a country hotel. p The Official Tourism Organisation

We were greeted with coffee and scones by a roaring a fantastic base for outdoors types. Nature lovers can log fire. Our room was clean and comfortable, with tea look forward to a touch of homespun luxury after a day and coffee making facilities. What is it about staying spent on the rugged moor. in a hotel that making yourself a cuppa to drink in bed always seems so wonderful? Such a small pleasure, Now, who else will a place like Harrabeer Country Hotel perhaps, but always a delight. appeal to? Not those who insanely value the faceless, bland touch of a corporate travel lodge and adjoining A vegan couple were staying and so we agreed to give chain restaurant, that’s for sure. The Harrabeer is for their specially made starter a try. Amanda, we found, is people who relish warmth and friendliness in their a wonderful cook and the carrot and cashew nut pate hosts, who enjoy being treated with genuine kindness was quite delicious. Being avowed meat-eaters, we and hospitality. It is, having tasted Amanda’s cooking, followed this unusual choice of course with a hearty for those who really enjoy great food. beef casserole. To finish, a tray of goodies was brought to our table, with a variety of treats onboard. I chose a Those who like a quirky touch, such as the collection of meringue, Emma a slice of apple pie. To go with our soda syphons adorning the bar, or hares in the hallway, selections, there was clotted cream and the biggest will love it. It is perfect for a romantic break, a family bowl of fruit salad I’ve ever laid eyes on. holiday or a place for businessmen to lay their heads when visiting nearby Plymouth. We enjoyed a glass or two of wine with our meal and then retired to the bar, where the fire was still roaring. If you’re planning to come to Dartmoor, pay this place Emma had another wine, I tried a local ale and we sat a visit. talking with our hosts before reading a little about the history of the place. Local author Larry Carlton’s debut novel The Children of Powerful Men is out on Kindle now. Amongst our other @LarryCarlton_Writer fellow guests were cyclists, preparing themselves for a wet and windy ride to Princetown. The full English breakfast must have set them up nicely for their day’s adventure and no doubt they enjoyed their hot baths, delicious homecooked food and comfy beds on their return. I promise you this, the Harrabeer offers