INSIDE: More Thrills on Lake 2 Wine Tasting in Rome 6 Venice Apartment Rental 6 ’s 150th Birthday 7 Photos by Irene Levine Photos by Casa Artusi: A Living Museum of dream of Italian Home Cooking ® f you’re Italian-American, I it’s quite possible your grandmother was given a copy of La Scienza in Cucina e L’arte Di Mangia Bene (Science in the Kitchen and The Art of Eating Well) as a wedding gift, or your mother has a copy on Volume 9, Issue 10 www.dreamofitaly.com December 2010/January 2011 her bookshelf passed down by a ITALY relative from Italy. First published in 1891, this book was written by Adrenalin Rush Pellegrino Artusi, the man who has been called the father of Italian home on cooking.

am huffing and puffing, gasping I hate him. Why didn’t he warn me On a recent road trip through the I and cursing myself for going bik- how steep this was? He turns his head, Emilia- region in northern ing the very afternoon I have arrived still peddling. “Are you okay?” Italy, my husband and I stopped in in Bellagio. I could be sitting on the pri- Forlimpopoli (situated halfway vate terrace of my opulent suite at The “Yes,” I lie. My mouth is so dry I can between the towns of Forli and Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni or barely speak. ) to visit Casa Artusi, a living sipping a cappuccino at the museum of Italian cookery that was Serbelloni pool, watching the “You’re doing just fine,” he created to honor Artusi, one of its ferries go back and forth on Lake grins. Easy for him to say. most famous citizens. Como, but oh no — I chose to go He’s not even breaking a biking. What on earth was I sweat on the steep switch- As you approach the town, you can’t thinking? That maybe I’d pass backs. miss seeing Rocca Albornoziana, the George Clooney driving by on impressive medieval fortress that his way to one of his two villas? We are ascending the famous overlooks Piazza Garibaldi and Or maybe run into Sir Richard Vallassina Road of Magreglio, the deci- anchors the town. Built in the 14th Branson, who just paid the most sive last leg of the Giro Italia, Giro century, it now houses the municipal expensive price ever for a private villa: and other famous Italian government, an archaeological $27 million? cycling races. It’s all scary hairpin museum and a theater. turns plus, the road has no shoulder, so I look at the back of Pierluigi Gandola, each time a car passes, I tense. A huge Just a short walk along a cobbled my Italian cycling guide. I loved him vehicle rolls by whose truck bed is street from the square, we entered a an hour ago when he arrived at the piled high with cut logs. I concentrate courtyard to find Casa Artusi, a strik- Serbelloni with a helmet and a loaner hard and pray to the cycling gods that ingly contemporary building with bike exactly my size. Right now, I think continued on page 2 continued on page 7 Lake Como is the shape of the letter Y. Lake Como continued from page 1

“Those are Italy’s most famous cyclists, and GINO BARTALI.” “In front of a chapel?” I ask. “You will see,” he smiles 1 one won’t roll off and smash me. “Those are Italy’s most famous cyclists, Fausto Finally, we come to a flat portion of Coppi and Gino Bartali.” road. “We made it!” I say relieved, stopping. “In front of a chapel?” I ask. a ramp, built intentionally identical to “We’re half way,” he smiles and pulls “You will see,” he smiles. the final hairpin turn we just rode up. out a bottle of water from his pack. He hands it to me and I take a sip. We enter the chapel. Everywhere: on We wander past 50-year-old woolen the walls, hanging from the ceiling, cycling jerseys with large buttoned “If this is such a famous road, how draping the altar, are racing bicycles of pockets, movies of the greatest cycling come we’re the only cyclists?” I ask. every vintage, biking jerseys, and team champs of every decade, bikes used by December 2010/January 2011 2010/January December cycling flags. In 1948, Pope Pious XII the Bersaglieri rifle regiment, sleek 2 “Italians are lazy. We drive.” He grins declared the Madonna of Ghisallo new wooden racing bikes and a and stows the water. “Ready?” (whose portrait is in this chapel), $15,000 hot Colnago-Ferrari number, patron saint of cyclists. A year later, he which makes Pierluigi salivate. A Chapel Unlike Any Other blessed the bronze eternal flame which burns behind the altar of this 400-year- We leave, mount our bikes and fly We start up again. Now the switch- old chapel, a cyclist’s shrine. back down the switchbacks for miles backs are even steeper. My quads are until we arrive at a postcard-perfect screaming. Just when I’m ready to cry A chapel dedicated to cyclists? It one-block-long village of stone houses

www.dreamofitaly.com uncle, we arrive at the top, 2,470 feet makes sense after Pierluigi says that and red tiled roofs. “Cappuccino?” he above sea level. there are 700 asks. No wonder I cycling clubs can’t breathe! in the region We enter a small coffee shop. “We’re here,” of Lombardy “Chocolate?” asks the barista as she Pierluigi says. with 12,000 makes the coffee. I nod and she hands “Come.” We members and me a steaming cappuccino complete slide our bikes 1,200 races with a chocolate powder smiley face into a rack and every year. I on top of the frothy steamed milk. he leads me can’t get over toward two stat- all the biking Back on our bikes, we coast downhill ues that stand paraphernalia until we cross the road, turn onto a dirt like sentries on everywhere. trail, and start back uphill. We pass a either side of the Santuario Madonna del My triathlon teammates would never farmhouse. At the edge of the path is a Ghisallo. believe this. Nor would they believe large chicken coop with noisy hens and that next door to the chapel is a sleek one swan. In the hills on either side are “Who are they?” I ask, looking at the glass, steel and stone cycling museum, the biggest milk cows I’ve ever seen. statues. Museo del Ciclismo Madonna del Ghisallo. We peddle by a female scarecrow out- We enter the building and walk down fitted in a checked Italian housedress. Mark Twain visited Lake Como Eventually, we arrive at the top of the serenaded by three musicians while hill, a clearing where we dismount, dining on smoked salmon bites with and look out at the azure Lake Como honey-flavored Belgian endive fol- below us. I gaze down at cypress trees lowed by homemade ravioli with and small stone villages with red tiled ricotta cheese, spinach, parmesan roofs and lush gardens. In the distance cheese cream, and black truffles. I Pierluigi points out the Alps and says allow myself Tiramisu mousse (I’ve David Lie, flickr.com Lie, David that Switzerland is the second moun- earned it), walk back to my room, and Locanda Comacina tain ridge over. am thrilled to find a note on my bed with both the weather forecast and the launch to the island of Comacina. It’s so Skipping Stones availability of a private motor boat tiny that I can walk completely around tour with lunch on an island and a it in less than 15 minutes before taking We continue to Loppia, a picturesque visit to “Villa del Balbianello.” a seat in the restaurant named Locanda, port and the former landing dock of the only building on the island except Lake Como where gon- Exploring More of for a few artists’ cottages. dolas transported all the Lake Como goods before roads and Lunch is a feast — plate after plate of trains were available. We The next morning, I appetizers, pasta dishes, main courses, get off our bikes in front am up a little after and a wheel of Parmigiano as large as a of some wooden gondo- dawn, running along tire. The main show is the fire ritual. las, which he says could the lake, when a continued on page 4 be 100 years old. Pierluigi woman walking her skims a flat stone across dog smiles at me. 2011 2010/January December the water. It skips six Before long, we are dream of 3 times. “MY GOD!” I say. “SIX? How engaged in conversation and she asks ® can you do that?” if I’d like to join her and her dog to a magical place about 10 minutes away. ITALY “I was brought up on the water,” he We walk up an endless flight of narrow Kathleen A. McCabe laughs. “That’s what we do.” I try but steps, then down just as many until Editor and Publisher my stone clunks into the lake. He suddenly we are in the small fishing chooses a stone for me, shows me how village of Pescallo. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Design: Leaird Designs to twirl it with my wrist, and this time, www.dreamofitaly.com www.leaird-designs.com my stone skips once. After endless The narrow street is lined with beauti- tries, I manage to skip one four times. ful little stone houses surrounded by Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover- ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a Miraculous! flowers. We walk down the lane and year. Delivery by mail is $99 in the U.S. and Canada and arrive at the shore. “This is my favorite $109 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online Much later, as I lie on the heated treat- place,” she says. “Every time I come access to over 75 back issues and regular e-mail updates. ment table at the Serbelloni Spa and here, I feel so at peace.” We sit on a Three ways to subscribe: the masseuse soothes my tired body, bench together and watch the fishing 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, I’m still smiling — not because I ped- boats gently bob up and down on the Washington, DC, 20016 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 dled to the top of the steep switchback water. There are no other tourists, just a 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, trail, but because for the first time I few dog walkers who greet us warmly. Mastercard and American Express accepted) skimmed a stone four times across one Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] of the most beautiful lakes in After a sumptuous buffet breakfast at Advertising opportunities are available. the world. the Serbelloni, I wander around the E-mail: [email protected] historical center of Bellagio admiring Copyright © 2011 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Everything I do is based on the silks, hand painted glass, Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- 1 mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide Lake Como, including din- leathers, and hand made shoes in the information that is accurate and reliable; however, ner overlooking the water at the small boutiques. Then I walk to the Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that elegant Terrazza Serbelloni. I am Serbelloni dock and board the private may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com in the summer of 1867. Lake Como continued from page 3 mypoorbrain, flickr.com mypoorbrain,

Owner Benvenuto Puricelli adds enough memorabilia acquired on his various main part of Varenna, and then take alcohol to a huge cauldron of coffee to expeditions. I’d love to climb some- the ferry back home. flood Lake Como, sets it on fire, and as thing right now — not only to see Lake the hot orange flames lick up toward Como from above, but also to digest Ready to Hike the ceiling, tells us in a booming my huge lunch. theatrical voice that this ritual will That night, I am in the Serbonelli’s undo a mysterious curse cast on the Other guests return to the Serbelloni, lounge when I meet Antonio Calzolaro, island in 1169. but not me. The boat captain writes Villa Serbelloni’s manager. I tell him I down Castello di Vezio have one more day in Bellagio, and ask December 2010/January 2011 2010/January December I am still laughing as I on a small piece of what he suggests. There’s a daily guid- 4 board the boat, waiting paper, hands me a ed tour to the Rockefeller Foundation at the dock. Next stop: ferry guide, and drops Park, he says, a meandering walk Villa del Balbianello, me off on the dock of along a path lined with fir and originally a rest home Varenna, a small fish- monkey-puzzle trees up to the top of for Franciscan monks ing village with the promontory. I tell him it sounds a and which, like many picturesque restau- little too passive for me. He suggests a villas on the lake, can rants overlooking the 20-minute ferryboat ride to Cadenabbia, only be reached by boat. lake. I walk up the then a one-hour hike straight up the

www.dreamofitaly.com The guide says that A steep road at the top of mountain. Perfect. Even better, he Month by the Lake, Star which is a tower with a offers to take me there! Wars and Casino Royale spectacular view. After, were all filmed here. The I’ll take a ferry back to Antonio meets me in the lobby, dressed last owner (until 1988 Bellagio. The route is in hiking attire. I am thrilled to be on when it became part of steep and winds past an adventure with the Serbelloni’s the Italian National Trust) stone walls, flower- manager. We board Guido Monzino, was the ing gardens, and the ferry, get off at comoguide1, flickr.com comoguide1, leader of the first Italian Villa del Balbianello fragrant fir trees. Cadenabbia, and expedition to climb Mount walk down the road Everest. He bought the villa in 1974. Finally, I arrive on top of the hill until we find a place and walk toward the gate just as to cut into the As I wander through room after room two Italians are locking it. 5 p.m — ancient village with of important collections of Chinese, closed. Oh well. It doesn’t matter. picturesque alleys African and pre-Columbian art and The weather has turned cloudy and mews in every 18th-century English and French and foggy, and I can see below direction. He finds furniture, I wonder how a climber from right here. I walk back down, the path to San could have gotten so rich. In the attic is explore the lakeside path to the Martino and we 1 Lake Como is one of the walk over a small bridge and start up through fields and woods. The Details

Here we are, in the middle of nowhere, but about every 15 minutes we pass tiny chapels with mosaics depicting the Mysteries of the Rosary. We climb 1 2011 2010/January December steps until we reach the midway point, a 5 Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni Villa del Balbaniello Chapel dedicated to Saint Charles. Via Roma, 1 Via Coemedio Then, no more stairs, just a steep trail Bellagio to the top, but so worth it when we Museo del Ciclismo Madonna (39) 031 950216 (39) 0344 56110 look down at the neighboring villages, del Ghisallo www.villaserbelloni.com www.fondoambiente.it including Bellagio — the view here is a Via Gino Bartali, 4 Rates: From 240€ for a single Open every day between March good three times higher as from the Magreglio room to 1,050€ for a senior 17 through November 4 except top of Varenna. www.museodelghisallo.it suite, depending on season. Monday and Wednesday. Locanda dell’Isola Comacina A ticket to visit the garden is 5€. www.dreamofitaly.com And this being Italy, when we descend, Trekking Montagna (39) 0344 55083 (It is also possible to visit the we don’t head directly back to the (39) 339 5308136 www.comacina.it villa for an additional 11€ per ferry. In true Italian style, we stop at www.trekkingmontagna.com Open for lunch and dinner, person, but this must be booked Vecchia Torre, a charming stone pub Guide Pierluigi Gandola offers March through October. Closed well in advance.) dating back to 1400 with old milking mountain biking, Nordic walking Tuesday except for three stools as bar stools, and hand-hewn and orienteering. The cost of 1/2 months in the summer. wooden tables. Antonio orders us each day tour for up to 5 people is a grappa. “Salute,” he says as we clink 150€, including the van. Bike Vecchia Torre Snack Bar Pub glasses. “Now, if you were Italian, we and helmet rental is 20€ per - Via Brentano, 10 would have had a grappa before we person. Como started up.” (39) 0344 40369 www.vecchiatorre.it I laugh, clink his glass again, and say, Closed Tuesday “There’s always next time.”

—Margie Goldsmith 1 € = $1.37 at press time deepest lakes in Europe. News, Tips and

Vino Roma: Wine Tasting in Rome hether you’re enjoying popular “My Italians” class, and when the be part of the lesson in pairing food and wine. the house wine (no day arrived, I was pleased to find Vino Our afternoon moves through six generous label, served in ceramic Roma centrally tastings of wines from all over Italy, illustrating the jug) at a local trattoria or formally located — halfway W different characteristics. Leimer is a natural tasting the vintages at a vineyard, between the , teacher helping students “discover” on their own Italy offers a wealth of wine expe- Spanish Steps and stressing that there are no right or wrong riences. But how much do you and the Vatican — answers — wine is about what you like. Despite really know about the wine you’re in a palazzo along my exposure to Italian wines throughout the years, drinking? Even after dozens of the Tiber. Leimer I learn many things I didn’t know. (See the Web trips to Italy, along with at least was as warm and page for this story at www.dreamofitaly.com to dozens of trip to Italian vineyards effusive as her tweets on Twitter, where view video of my seminar at Vino Roma.) and a general wine class here and I first learned about Vino Roma. there, I feel like I have just scratched the surface Vino Roma’s seminars are held in English and “Wine is such a nice thing,” she tells me as we sit

December 2010/January 2011 2010/January December when it comes to all there is to know about Italian German; Italian and Turkish are available by down at a large table in Vino Roma’s airy main wine. I realize many travelers may feel similarly. request. Leimer offers private and customized room. “It must be easier to access.” As we wait for 6 seminars for those who may be more advanced in That’s why I was intrigued to learn about Vino a few more people to show up, my attention their wine knowledge. This seminar costs 50€ per Roma, run by sommelier Hande Leimer, offering moves to the amazing spread of Italian meats and person. For more information, visit two-hour wine tasting classes geared toward cheeses on the table as well as a fruit-filled www.vinoroma.com travelers to Rome. I signed up for Vino Roma’s dessert Leimer herself has made. Later, these will

www.dreamofitaly.com Venice: An Apartment with A View enice is a city where accommodations are utes from Piazza San Marco (talk about location!). always at premium. Travelers pay more On the ground floor of a palazzo, Rubino has for a hotel room here than in any other three windows along a canal. As I settled into the VItalian city. Renting an apartment can provide an apartment, the show of a lifetime began. alternative, usually offering more value and ameni- I could hear it before I could see it. Notes of O Rubino starts at ties than the average hotel room. I recently rented Sole Mio rang out from a gondolier as passed just 720€ for three nights, an apartment through a new company, Truly feet from the bedroom window, passing through depending on the season. Daniela, one of the Venice. I was traveling on my own and wanted a the sitting room window and turning the corner co-owners of Truly Venice, is happy to help with place that was in a great location. I also only and passing through the other sitting room booking other aspects (tickets, restaurants) of wanted to stay a few nights and Truly Venice window. Soon more gondolas passed and I felt as guest visits to Venice. The modern apartment is doesn’t have a one-week minimum like many if I were part of a movie. It takes a lot to NOT want perfect for a single traveler or a couple. The rental companies (it only requires three nights). to leave your accommodations while visiting kitchen is adequate for prepping snacks and I was in for the most amazing surprise when I Venice but in my few days, I often felt that way. breakfast but not big enough for a gourmet meal. arrived at Rubino, Truly Venice’s one-bedroom I had the best show in town. In the evenings, the There’s a flat-screen TV and Internet access. (though a little more like a studio as the bedroom canals were quiet and I could hear water lapping For more information, visit www.truly-venice.com is just big enough for a bed) rental just two min- as I fell asleep. As of January 2011, plastic sho pping bags arepping Italy. banned in Events W Palace inOctober2011. Formoreinformationon The exhibitionwillmoveontoFlorence’s Pitti Venice, Genoa, Bologna,NaplesandPalermo.” pre-Unification capitals: Turin, Florence,Milan, ancient timestotheeveof1861by meansofthe masterpieces revealing“theprogressofartfrom host to“LaBellaItalia,”anexhibitionof300 Risorgimento.” Piedmont’s composer wasconsidered“thebardofthe season ofVerdi atthecity’s Esperienzia Italia. the country’s firstcapital,underaninitiativecalled Many eventsaretakingplaceinandaround Turin, birthday in2011 witheventsalloverthecountry. until nineyearslater, Italyiscelebratingits150th Despite thefactthatRomedidn’tjoinunifiedItaly was namedthefirstcapital. by newly formedKingdomofItaly, headed )wasunitedintothe exceptions, includingRomeandthe northern andsouthernItaly(withbig called movement tounifyItalywas worth morereading). The otal figureinItalianhistoryis Giuseppe Garibaldi lowing battlesbyunifier Italian statewasfoundedfol- 1861 whenthemodern today onlydatesbackto doms. The Italyweknow other areascontrolledbyvariousEuropeanking- of independentcity-states,thePapalStatesand For centuries,theItalianpeninsulawascomprised King VictorEmmanuel, Risorgimento. the actualcountryofItalyisquiteyoung. throughout Italy, itiseasytoforgetthat ith alltheantiquitiesandruinstosee 5 Years 150 The offerings in Turin includea (this piv- In 1861,muchof tl Celebrates Italy and Turin Venaria Reale Teatro Regio. will play The Pancrazio Mausoleum OssariumGianicolense,PortaSan to suchhistoricallysignificantsitesasthe vantage pointtoadmirethecity, butisalsohome For moreinformation,visitwww.contexttravel.com unification ofItalyin1861.Costis 65€ perperson. of theSecondRomanRepublic,and finallythe locations ofseminalbattlesforthe establishment A walkup fought againstPapalauthorityforaunitedItaly. strate thetenuousnatureofera,aspatriots such asthebattlein tles toliberateRometookplace.Importantevents, Trastevere Another ninelongyearsofbattleremained,as Birth ofItaly, walking seminar, In Rome,Context Travel haslaunchedanew 2011, visitwww.italia150.it nine monthsofplannedeventsbeginninginMarch in 2011 Gianiculum Hill Papal rule. The walkmovesontothe that Romefacedwhileremainingunder Risorgimento inItalyandthestruggles guests willlearnthefoundationsof Beginning nearthe later leaders,sucha of thishistorytofurthertheideals Rome in1870andthesubsequentuse and neighborhood, wheremanyofthebat- in honorofItaly’s 150thbirthday. Piazzale Garibaldi. Garibaldi, Risorgimento,andthe leading uptothecaptureof 1861, aswelltheevents es thehistorysurrounding hour walkingseminardiscuss- national fold.Context’s three- States ruledRomeintothe sought tobringthePapal- Garibaldi, Mazziniandothers Ajani provides aperfect Campo de’Fiori, wool mill,demon- Mussolini. These were wines. includes 200varietiesofregional Emilia-Romagna, collaboration withthe to thetowncounciluponhisdeath.In the 45,000booksthat Artusi bequested as wellaresearch librarythatholds second floorthatisopentothepublic, The moderncenterhasalibraryonthe pieces ofart. church containingseveralimportant adjoining out, standsinstarkcontrasttothe years ago,itsdesign,bothinsideand once wasamonastery. Openedfive glass walls,housedinastructure that continued frompage1 Casa Artusi of Italianculture, thepopularityof his wisdomandextensiveknowledge Filled withwittyanecdotes thatreveal and cooks andservants, tested inhisownkitchenbytrusted Artusi nevermarried,therecipes were friends andacquaintances.Because 475 recipes hehadcollectedfrom and thenself-publishedacookbookof cuisine. Hewrote severalotherbooks on histwopassions:culture and and wealthyenoughtoretire andfocus across Italyuntilhewas45yearsold businessandtradedsilks father’s traders. Heeventuallytookoverhis Forlimpopoli in1820,toafamilyof Pelligrino Artusi wasbornin Who WasPelligrinoArtusi? Marietta Sabatini. Chiesa deiServi, the winecellar Francesco Ruffilli continued onpage8 Enoteca Regionale a baroque o

www.dreamofitaly.com December 2010/January 2011 7 Casa Artusi continued from page 7

THE DETAILS

Casa Artusi afterwards) cost 50€ per person. Executive Chef Andrea Banfi and described in Pellegrino Artusi’s Via Costa, 27/31 Individualized courses and hands- his team offer seasonal menus at cookbook, such as spaghetti with Forlimpopoli on lessons can be arranged for Casa Artusi Restaurant showcasing anchovies. The 90-seat, contempo- Cooking School: (39) 0543 743138 small groups. A schedule of local foods, homemade pastas and rary restaurant is open for lunch Restaurant: (39) 0543.748049 upcoming cooking courses — only breads and regional wines of and dinner everyday, except www.casartusi.it offered in Italian — is posted on the Emilia-Romagna. The extensive Tuesday. Seating outside during Casa Artusi Web site. menu is moderately priced, and summer. Our piadina course (with tasting includes some of the same dishes

Artusi’s book exceeded everyone’s Those who prefer to dive right into eat- working with their hands and carrying wildest expectations. Through sheer ing rather than cooking, can head on the traditions of generations before word of mouth, before the era of liter- straight to the lovely restaurant on the them. December 2010/January 2011 2010/January December ary publicists and the internet, the ground floor and order from a menu 8 initial book run of 1,000 copies quickly that includes some of the recipes After class, we indulged in the warm, sold out. A later edition including described in the cookbook. o soft bread that was perfectly paired additional secret family recipes, gath- with San Genovese wine, a creamy ered from readers, resulted in a volume We washed our hands, tied on our cheese called sqacquerone, a smooth of 790 recipes from different regions of aprons, and were shown to a modern local ricotta cheese, and Mora Italy. Over the years, the book has been kitchen with 20 modern stainless steel Romagnola, slices of tasty salami that translated into English, German, workstations. Watching the teacher, we comes from black pigs. Spanish and Portuguese. carefully measured flour, salt, yeast,

www.dreamofitaly.com water and lard to create a mound of For many home kitchens in Italy and Although the author was well-trav- dough. throughout the world, the book still eled, the book’s recipes are primarily remains a bible. One reason for its from the regions of Emilia-Romagna “Is it always made with lard?” I asked, appeal and longevity is that Artusi and Tuscany. That’s because Artusi had worrying about all the piadini I had considered himself neither a gourmet to flee from his hometown to Florence eaten in restaurants on prior evenings. nor a glutton but someone who appre- in 1851, when Forlimpopoli was “Some people use olive oil,” my ciated fresh, local foods that were penetrated by a group of robbers teacher said reassuringly. practical and economical to prepare at (il passatore) who were after wealthy home, a concept that is still appreciated families, including his own. We were shown how to knead the today. dough by hand and then roll it out so The Cooking Class it was just the right thickness and den- Thirty years after the unification of o sity before cooking it in a terracotta Italy by Garibaldi, Artusi’s book was We had come to Forlimpopoli to learn skillet. Alongside the teachers at Casa the first to capture the variety of to make piadina, the traditional Italian Artusi are Mariettas, members of a regional cuisines that comprise what is flatbread of the region. We could have modern day woman’s auxiliary of now referred to as “Italian” home also taken courses on a variety of other approximately 140 volunteers who cooking. Italian dishes and cooking techniques, assist the professional cooks and stu- including pasta and pastry making. dents much like Marietta Sabatini did, —Irene S. Levine Artusi finished his famous book when he was 71.