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Home , Cape dwarf chameleon, Cape longclaw, Cape rockjumper, Cape starling, Coccopygia, Fiscal flycatcher

: THE SOUTHWESTERN CAPE & KRUGER AUGUST 18–SEPTEMBER 2, 2017

WAKKERSTROOM EXTENSION SEPTEMBER 1–5, 2017

Blue Crane © David Wolf

LEADERS: PATRICK CARDWELL & DAVID WOLF LIST COMPILED BY: DAVID WOLF

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM South Africa: The Southwestern Cape & Kruger August 18–September 2, 2017

Wakkerstroom Extension September 1–5, 2017

By David E. Wolf

Unique in so many ways, South Africa is the temperate tip of a tropical continent, with its own special fauna and flora, and culture and history. It is also the most developed country on the continent, with great facilities for touring. Our 2017 tour took full advantage of all of this, as we visited three very different regions of this complex country, explored unique habitats and saw and unknown elsewhere, and thoroughly enjoyed all of it, including the outstanding food, great wines, and excellent accommodations. Special thanks go to Patrick and Mary Louise Cardwell for making this tour such a grand success!

The first half of our trip was spent in the southwestern Cape, initially working out of Cape Town, surely one of the world’s most attractive cities. Cut off from the rest of Africa by a ring of mountains, this region has a delightful Mediterranean climate, with cool wet winters and warm dry summers, or, as we experienced it, somewhat chilly nights and pleasantly warm days. With windier weather predicted in upcoming days, we opted to make our first morning’s excursion a pelagic trip. It wasn’t calm, but we were able to get 25 miles offshore, where we stopped to chum. Before long we had a remarkable array of tubenoses right behind the stern, at close range, our heads swirling as 3 of albatross Yellow-nosed Albatross © David Wolf whizzed around us—Yellow-nosed, White- capped, and Black-browed—and abundant White-chinned and a few Cape petrels, Sooty Shearwaters, and Subantarctic Skuas landed just a few feet from us to feast on the free offerings. Later that afternoon we visited the extensive False Bay Environmental Park, quickly becoming acquainted with a huge variety of African waterbirds, though the most unusual sighting here may well have been the weird Cape Dune Mole-Rat that was out by day right beside the road, seemingly oblivious to our presence.

On our second day we began at world-famous Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, established over 100 years ago. Here we found the garden alive with sunbirds, while Cape Sugarbirds sat just a few feet away from us, Cape Francolins and Southern Boubous skulked on the forest edge, and a rarely seen Forest Canary foraged at our feet. The gardens were a great introduction to the of the region, and the floral displays were spectacular, but we tore ourselves away to spend the afternoon at the Cape of Good Hope Reserve. Here, where the cold waters of the Atlantic meet the warmer waters of the Indian Ocean, we found ourselves awed by the scenery. Added attractions were a cow and calf Southern Right-

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Whale just offshore, gorgeous Bontebok antelope, and coastal birds like cormorants, White-fronted Plover, and African Oystercatchers, plus an especially cooperative Cape Grassbird that climbed to the top of a low bush and sang its heart out.

Leaving Cape Town, we spent a diverse day working our way up the West Coast, from marshy ponds, beaches, and rocky promontories through inland wheatfields and a preserved patch of damp prairie to end the day in (“fine bush”). Our first Blue Cranes were simply elegant, while a gorgeous male Black Bustard by the roadside allowed a great study. Landbirds were not abundant, but a surprising number were endemics that are found nowhere else in the world. Just witness how many of their names are preceded by “Cape”! Though Patrick thought it inferior because of the poor winter rains, a full day in the West Coast National Park produced one of the most amazing wildflower shows that any of us had ever seen, with great swaths of bold color painting the hills and valleys, and a plethora of special flowers hiding amidst the coastal fynbos. Here, too, we had great success with our quest birds for the day, especially the gorgeous Black Harrier that cruised along beside us and the Gray-winged Francolins just as we were leaving the park.

Next we moved inland through vast agricultural lands and rugged mountains to the flat plains on their dry inland side, known as the Tankwa Karoo. This vast semi-desert is characterized by the dominance of succulent plants specially adapted to irregular rainfall and often harsh conditions. This year it was drought-stricken for the second year in a row. Without the stimulus of rain the birds were few and far between, but with patience and persistence we found most of the regional specialties at least once. Best of all were the surprise Ludwig’s Bustards, a scarce and range-restricted species that irregularly wanders southward during times of drought. We saw a total of five! Also noteworthy were the many West Coast wildflowers © David Wolf beautiful South African Shelducks on the few remaining ponds, while a late afternoon “game drive” at Inverdoorn introduced us to the safari experience, as well as a special show from their Cheetah rehabilitation program.

After passing through rolling fields and the beautiful wine country (yes, we sampled some), one of them dotted with a flock of 47 Blue Cranes, we suddenly descended to the coast again, east of Cape Town at the lovely seaside resort of Hermanus. On our whale-watching trip here we were awed by close Southern Right Whales, while not far down the road we spent quality time with close-up African Penguins and four species of nesting cormorants. Then it was a hike through the recently-burned fynbos for perhaps the most iconic of the Cape endemics, the elusive Cape . Birds were few, but Orange-breasted Sunbirds and Cape Siskins, two of the more restricted Cape endemics, gave us great looks, before our

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 quarry magically appeared on a rock upslope from us. Everyone had good scope views, and after high fives all around, it was time to head back to Cape Town.

From the Cape we shifted gears dramatically and flew across this huge country to Sukuza, in the heart of the Greater Kruger Conservancy. From the air we could see a vast expanse of leafless and bare reddish ground between the trees, all of it looking quite desiccated. It was hard to imagine much life in this environment, and a heat-of-the-day drive to Notten’s Camp did little to dispel this first impression, but early morning and late afternoon game drives in the Jackass (African) Penguin © David Wolf upcoming days certainly proved us wrong. This is indeed big-game country, one of the finest protected areas on the continent, and it is home to “The Big Five” and many interesting smaller creatures.

Every excursion here brought fantastic sightings, from a very unexpected trio of Saddle-billed Storks our first afternoon to the Nyalas on our final drive back to the Sukuza Airport. (Dave had especially hoped to see this graceful antelope that is endemic to southeastern Africa). In the mornings we were up and out early, for this is when the birds are really active here. Some were conspicuous, like hornbills and rollers, while others roamed in active mixed- flocks composed of the likes of helmet-, bushshrikes, tits, flycatchers and more. Throughout the area we never knew when we might round a bend and find some exciting or in front of us, like the White Rhinos, Giraffes, and beautiful Greater Kudus, or the huge Saddle-billed Stork © David Wolf Martial Eagle perched conspicuously on a dead snag, or the rare Shelley’s Francolin sneaking up to the vehicles. The carcass of a young bull elephant that had been dead for several days provided a feast for many, from the fat lions, lionesses, and cubs greedily tearing away at the meat to the mob of 14 Spotted Hyenas lying around waiting their turn and the vultures on the periphery continually trying to sneak in. This was Africa at its rawest, but a gentler side of life in the bush was provided by our Kruger highlight—a pair of Leopards that put on an amazing show. Participants in one vehicle watched them at length as they climbed around all over the buildings of a vacant ranger’s camp, while the second vehicle caught up with them as they moved into an open grassland and then proceeded to stop and mate! One Nyala © David Wolf can visit Africa many times without seeing a show like this from this most elusive of the big .

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017

Leopards © David Wolf

The final swing of our journey was an optional extension to the Wakkerstroom area, right in the heart of some of the best “sour veld” left in the world. Like our Great Plains, these temperate grasslands have been extensively altered for agriculture, and many of the birds and animals unique to them are in trouble. Here we readily found the endemic Southern Bald Ibis probing in the burned grasslands, often quite close at hand, while in the course of our explorations we encountered the iconic Secretary-bird and finally caught up with another premier specialty, the Blue Bustard. Thanks to some serious pre-trip scouting by local guide Lucky, we also found the small endemics of the region. The Botha’s Lark may not be the most impressive bird seen on the trip, but it may well be the most endangered— and we had a pair close beside the bus! Throughout the area we laughed at the comical Yellow Mongooses and Meerkats, while the waterbirds sprinkled here and there included such African classics as the Gray Crowned- Crane and Hamerkop. All too soon it was time to return to Johannesberg for the long trip home, our minds reeling with memories of all that we had seen and done. Southern Bald Ibis © David Wolf

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017

Botha's Lark © Patrick Cardwell

ITINERARY: August 19: Everyone arrived at the historic Cellars-Hohenort Hotel in Constantia, Cape Town, by late afternoon. Many in the group arrived the day before and had a chance to find their first South African birds around the beautifully landscaped grounds today. August 20: Morning until 1:30 p.m. pelagic trip out from Hout Bay for 25 miles, where we stopped and chummed for 30 minutes. After returning to land we spent mid to late afternoon looking at waterbirds at the many ponds at the vast False Bay Environmental Park (Strandfontein). August 21: Morning at the world-famous Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in Constantia and then afternoon excursion to the Cape of Good Hope unit of Table Mountain National Park, where it was very windy on the Atlantic side but calmer on the Indian Ocean side. August 22: A full day working our way up the West Coast from Cape Town to Langebaan, with many stops. Habitats ranged from coastal ponds and beaches to wheatfields, native prairie and “fynbos”. Localities included Milnerton Lagoon, Intaka Island, Dolphin Beach; Melkbos Strand; Tienie Versfeld Wildflower Reserve (near Darling); and the quarry in the Langebaan area. August 23: All day exploring the West Coast National Park, including Langebaan Lagoon. The winter rains had been poor in this area this year, but we still thought that the wildflower show was spectacular. August 24: Morning birding from the Langebaan area north to the Berg River, including stops at Jacobsbaai and the saltworks near Veldriff, and then inland to Riebeck Kasteel for lunch at the Pleasant Pheasant winery. In the afternoon we drove through the Cedarberg Mountains, via Nuwekloof Pass, to Tulbagh. August 25: Pre-breakfast birding at Rijk’s Country House in Tulbagh before travel through the mountains, via Mitchell’s and Theron Passes, to Ceres. North of here we entered the Tankwa Karoo, arriving at Inverdoorn Game Reserve for lunch and then an afternoon “game drive” and cheetah show.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 August 26: A full day of exploring the arid Tankwa Karoo, starting at Inverdoorn at dawn and later driving as far as the Karoo-Poort Road, with a picnic lunch. This entire region was extremely dry and drought-stricken for the second year in a row. August 27: Pre-breakfast walk at Inverdoorn and travel inland through the wine country and vast wheatfields to Gabrielskloof Winery for lunch, after which we dropped through the hills to the coast near Betty’s Bay for the bulk of the afternoon at the Harold Porter Botanical Garden. Our route took us through Ceres to Worcester to Villiersdorp to Hermanus. August 28: Morning whale-watching boat trip in Walker Bay at Hermanus. After lunch we continued to Stony Point Reserve near Betty’s Bay and then hiked along the base of the coastal mountains near Rooi-els, before a scenic drive back into Cape Town and The Cellars-Hohenort. August 29: Delayed late morning flight to Sukuza in the Greater Kruger Conservancy. Upon arrival we transferred to Notten’s Camp for a late lunch and our first game drive. August 30: Morning and afternoon game drives in the Sabi-Sands Reserve area of the Greater Kruger Conservancy, plus a “bush walk” from Notten’s Camp in the late morning. August 31: Morning and afternoon game drives in the Sabi-Sands Reserve area and birding around Notten’s Camp in the heat of the day. September 1: A final game drive in the Sabi-Sands area in the early morning and birding around Notten’s Camp before transferring to Sukuza for an afternoon flight to Johannesberg.. September 2: The Wakkerstroom Extension began by driving southwest from Johannesberg to the grasslands near the entrance to Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, then continuing to Wakkerstroom for lunch. Afternoon drive through the vast grasslands in this area in search of cranes and other “sour veld” specialty birds. September 3: A big day in the Wakkerstroom region, with several drives through the hills and grasslands, with stops at specific sites to search for some of the rare and special birds of the area. September 4: Early morning pre-breakfast check of the Wakkerstroom Wetlands Reserve and a little birding at Wetlands Country House & Sheds before driving to the Johannesberg Airport in time for evening international departures. September 5: Arrival in the U.S. after overnight flights.

KEY: CT = Greater Cape Town area in general (August 19-22) Pel = pelagic trip on August 20 CGH = Cape of Good Hope excursion (afternoon of August 21) WC = West Coast region, from above Cape Town north to Langebaan and the Berg River, and inland to Tulbagh (August 22-24). K = Tankwa Karoo region, from Ceres to Inverdoorn and northward from there (August 25-26 and early morning on August 27). ECT = East of Cape Town, from the wheatfields at Gabrielskloof winery to Hermanus and east to Betty’s Bay (August 27-28). Kr = Greater Kruger Conservancy in the Sabi Sands Reserve, based at Notten’s Camp (August 29-September 1). W = Wakkerstroom Extension (September 2-4). hd = heard * = Wakkerstroom Extension only

BIRDS: follows the order and names present in the Clements “Birds of the World: A Check-List”, now managed by the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology. Some of our highlights, rarities and specialties are underscored.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Ostrich: Struthionidae Common Ostrich (Struthio camelus) – CGH, WC, K (extirpated as a wild bird in this region long ago, but has been re-introduced into the national parks and private reserves and farms). Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl: Anatidae White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus) – CT, W (especially close study of a pair of these unusual ducks on a highway pond north of Milnerton at Dolphin Beach). Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiaca) – CT, WC, K, ECT, Kr, W (seen in all regions and almost every day, except in the Kruger area). South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana) – CT, WC, K, W (a beautiful regional endemic seen often and well). Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis) – CGH, WC, ECT, W African Black Duck (Anas sparsa) – Ceres town Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) – CT, WC (introduced feral populations). Yellow-billed Duck (Anas undulata) – CT, WC, K, W Cape Shoveler (Anas smithii) – CT, WC, K, W Red-billed Duck (Anas erythrorhyncha) – CT, WC, K * Hottentot Teal (Anas hottentota) – W Cape Teal (Anas capensis) – CT, WC, K Southern Pochard (Netta erythrophthalma) – CT, K, W * Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa) – W (a very scarce and local duck). Guineafowl: Numididae Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris) – CT, WC, ECT, Kr, W (comical birds seen in large numbers in many areas). Pheasants, Grouse & Allies: Phasianidae Cape Francolin (Pternistis capensis) – CT, WC, K, ECT (a common and easily seen species endemic to the southwestern Cape region). Natal Francolin (Pternistis natalensis) - Kr Swainson’s Francolin (Pternistis swainsonii) – Kr, W Crested Francolin (Francolinus sephaena) – Kr * Orange River Francolin (Scleroptila levaillantoides) – W (great looks at this declining species in the roadside grasslands near Suikerbosrand). Gray-winged Francolin (Scleroptila africanus) – WC, W (after much searching through the day we had a pair right beside the road just before exiting the West Coast National Park in the late afternoon; other close birds were studied the next morning. A Cape endemic of limited world range). Shelley’s Francolin (Scleroptila shelleyi) – Kr (yet another rarely-seen francolin, this one coming right up to our vehicles in response to its call). Grebes: Podicipedidae Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) – CT, WC, K, W Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus) – W Eared (Black-necked) Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis) – WC (Berg River saltworks). Flamingos: Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) – CT, WC Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor) – CT, WC Penguins: Spheniscidae Jackass Penguin (Spheniscus demersus) – ECT (we had fun watching these endearing birds at the Stony Point Reserve, a major colony for this declining breeding endemic). Albatrosses: Diomedeidae Yellow-nosed Albatross (Thalassarche chlororhynchos) – pelagic (incredible studies as we chummed and they landed on the water right behind the boat; at least 10 individuals seen. All seemed to be the “Indian” Yellow-nosed (T. c. bassi), sometimes split as separate species). White-capped Albatross (Thalassarche cauta) – pelagic (the most numerous albatross).

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris) – pelagic Shearwaters & Petrels: Procellariidae Northern Giant-Petrel (Macronectes halli) – pelagic Cape Petrel (Daption capense) - pelagic White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis) – pelagic, CGH, ECT Sooty Shearwater (Ardenna grisea) – pelagic, CGH Storm-Petrels: Hydrobatidae Wilson’s Storm-Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) – pelagic Storks: Ciconiidae White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) – CT (great looks at a flock of 21 on a nearly-dry pool at False Bay; an unseasonal surprise). Saddle-billed Stork (Ephippiorhynchus senegtalensis) – Kr (magnificent trio that flew in and landed near us, on our first game drive at Notten’s. Very unexpected). Boobies & Gannets: Sulidae Cape Gannet (Morus capensis) – pelagic, CGH, ECT Cormorants & Shags: Phalacrocoracidae Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus) – CT, WC, W Crowned Cormorant (Microcarbo coronatus) – WC, ECT Great (“White-breasted”) Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo lucidus) – CT, CGH, WC, ECT Cape Cormorant (Phalacrocorax capensis) – pelagic, CGH, WC. ECT Bank Cormorant (Phalacrocorax neglectus) – ECT (this endangered species is the least numerous and the most specialized of the Cape cormorants). Anhingas: Anhingidae African Darter (Anhinga rufa) – CT, WC Pelicans: Pelecanidae Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus) – CT, WC Hammerkop: Scopidae Hammerkop (Scopus umbretta) – Kr, W Herons, Egrets & Bitterns: Ardeidae Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea) – CT, WC, K, W Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala) – CT, WC, W (the dry land heron). Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) – CT, WC (including one out in the open at the Berg River). Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) – CT, WC, K, ECT Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W * Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides) – W Ibises & Spoonbills: Threskiornithidae Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) - CT Sacred Ibis (Threskiornis aethiopicus) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT, W * Southern Bald Ibis (Geronticus calvus) – W (this distinctive and spectacular endemic was seen feeding in recently-burned grasslands in small groups). Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash) – CT, WC, K, ECT, Kr, W (so noisy and conspicuous you just have to love them. Common and widespread almost everywhere except the Kruger area). African Spoonbill (Platalea alba) – CT, WC, K, W Secretary-bird: Sagittariidae * Secretary-bird (Sagittarius serpentarius) – W (this classic African bird is the only member of its family). Hawks, Eagles & Kites: Acciptridae Black-shouldered (-winged) Kite (Elanus caeruleus) – CT, WC, ECT, Kr, W African Harrier-Hawk (Polyboroides typus) – Kr Hooded Vulture (Necrosyrtes monachus) - Kr White-backed Vulture (Gyps africanus) – Kr (the common vulture).

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Bataleur (Terathopius ecaudatus) – Kr (seen often and well, but always cruising in flight). Brown Snake-Eagle (Circaetus cinereus) - Kr Martial Eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus) – Kr, W (perched adult; the largest African eagle). Wahlberg’s Eagle (Hieraaetus wahlbergi) – Kr (the “wimpy” eagle). Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) – K Verreaux’s (Black) Eagle (Aquila verreauxii) – WC, Ceres (pairs seen around nest sites). African Hawk-Eagle (Aquila spilogaster) – Kr (spectacular pair at close range). (Southern) Pale Chanting-Goshawk (Melierax canorus) – K (a frequent sight). African Marsh-Harrier (Circus ranivorus) – CT, WC, W Black Harrier (Circus maurus) – WC (a rare, declining and beautiful endemic seen twice). African Goshawk (Accipiter tachiro) – CT, Kr Shikra (Accipiter badius) - Kr Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk (Accipiter rufiventris) – CT Black Goshawk (Sparrowhawk) (Accipiter melanoleucus) – CT (singles seen three days in a row, including 2 black morph individuals). Black Kite (Milvus migrans parasiticus) – WC (one early arrival seen from the bus. This is the African breeding race, sometimes split as a separate species, the “Yellow-billed” Kite). African Fish-Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer) – ECT, Kr Forest Buzzard (Buteo trizonatus) – CT Jackal Buzzard (Buteo rufofuscus) – CT, WC, ECT Bustards: Otididae Ludwig’s Bustard (Neotis ludwigii) – K (these huge birds of limited range are rare and irregular wanderers from further north; we saw 5 in one stretch of road, but all were shy and flew away from us). * White-bellied Bustard (Eupodotis senegalensis barrowii) – W (the distinctive barrowii race, endemic to South Africa and sometimes split as a separate species). * Blue Bustard (Eupodotis caerulescens) – W (after much searching we finally found a trio and then a pair of this gorgeous endemic of the high grasslands). Black Bustard (Eupodotis afra) – WC (males calling and displaying in the coastal fynbos). * White-quilled (Northern Black) Bustard (Eupodotis afraoides) – W Rails, Gallinules & Coots: Rallidae * African Rail (Rallus caerulescens) – W (out in the open!). Black Crake (Amaurornis flavirostra) – Tulbagh, W * African Swamphen (Porphyrio madagascariensis) – W (what was formerly the Purple Swamphen has now been split into 6 species; this is the African one found widely south of the Sahara). Eurasian (Common) Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) - CT, WC, K, W Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W Cranes: Gruidae * Gray Crowned-Crane (Balearica regulorum) – W (distant flock of 46 our first afternoon and then a close pair in gorgeous late afternoon light our second day. A classic African bird). Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus) – WC, K, ECT, W (the spectacular national bird of South Africa, seen regularly and in some numbers, especially in the wheatlands). Thick-knees: Burhinidae Water Thick-knee (Burhinus vermiculatus) – CT, Kr (hd) Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis) – CT, WC, W Stilts & Avocets: Recurvirostridae Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) – CT, WC, K, ECT Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) – CT, WC Oystercatchers: Haematopodidae African (Black) Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini) – CGH, WC, ECT (a low-numbers endemic typical of the rocky coasts of the Cape). Plovers & Lapwings: Charadriidae

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Black-bellied (Grey) Plover (Pluvialis squatarola) - WC Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armatus) – CT, WC, K, ECT, Kr, W (seen in all regions and almost daily). Senegal Lapwing (Vanellus lugubris) – Kr (a very cryptic pair, close to us on burned grassland). * Black-winged Lapwing (Vanellus melanopterus) – W (a very good find in South Africa). Crowned Lapwing (Vanellus coronatus) – WC, Kr, W Wattled Lapwing (Vanellus senegallus) – Kr, W Kittlitz’s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius) – CT, WC, K Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricollaris) – CT, WC, K, W White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus) – CGH, WC, ECT Chestnut-banded Plover (Charadrius pallidus) – WC (a scarce and very localized “halophile”; at least 30 tallied at the Berg River salt works). Sandpipers & Allies: Scolopacidae Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) – WC Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica) – CT, WC Ruff (Calidris pugnax) – WC Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea) – WC Little Stint (Calidris minuta) – CT, WC Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) – WC * Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) – W * African Snipe (Gallinago nigripennis) – W (scope studies in the marsh at the Wetlands Reserve). Buttonquail: Turnicidae Small Buttonquail (Turnix sylvaticus) – Kr (glimpsed in flight several times). Pratincoles & Coursers: Glareolidae * Temminck’s Courser (Cursorius temminckii) – W (one bird on recently-burned grassland). Skuas & Jaegers: Stercorariidae Brown Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus lonnbergi) – pelagic Gulls, Terns & Skimmers: Laridae Gray-hooded Gull (Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus) – CT, W (singles or small numbers). Hartlaub’s Gull (Chroicocephalus hartlaubii) – CT, CGH, WC, ECT (beautiful and abundant gull endemic to the cool West Coast waters). Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus) – CT, CGH, WC, ECT Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia) – CT, WC Common Tern (Sterna hirundo) – ECT (a few roosting on the rocky headland at Hermanus). Antarctic Tern (Sterna vittata) – WC (hundreds of these non-breeding visitors on their roosting islets at Jacobsbaai). Great Crested (Swift) Tern (Thalasseus bergii) – CT, CGH, WC, ECT Pigeons & Doves: Columbidae Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W (cities and towns; introduced). Speckled Pigeon (Columba guinea) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W Rameron (Olive) Pigeon (Columba arquatrix) – CT (high over Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden). Red-eyed Dove (Streptopelia semitorquata) – CT, WC, ECT, W Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove (Streptopelia capicola) – WC (hd), Kr, W Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis) – CT, WC, K, ECT, Kr, W Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove (Turtur chalcospilos) - Kr Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis) – WC (inland near Hermon) African Green-Pigeon (Treron calvus) - Kr Turacos: Musophagidae – a uniquely African family Purple-crested Turaco (Tauraco porphyreoplophus) – Kr (a real “wow!” bird). Gray Go-away-bird (Corythaixoides concolor) – Kr Cuckoos: Cuculidae

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 White-browed Coucal (Centropus superciliosus burchelli) – CT (heard), Kr (this race is sometimes split as a separate species, “Burchell’s” Coucal). Owls: Strigidae African Scops-Owl (Otus senegalensis) – Kr (over the dinner table!). Spotted Eagle-Owl (Bubo africanus) – CT, K (close studies of calm birds). African Barred Owlet (Glaucidium capense) – Kr (a nice look at this unexpected species). Nightjars & Allies: Caprimulgidae Fiery-necked Nightjar (Caprimulgus pectoralis) – Kr (mostly heard; glimpsed by some). Swifts: Apodidae Alpine Swift (Apus melba) - WC (over inland fields at The Pleasant Pheasant). African (Black) Swift (Apus barbatus) – WC, K, W Little Swift (Apus affinis) – WC, ECT, Kr, W White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer) – K, ECT, Kr African Palm-Swift (Cypsiurus parvus) – Kr (by a few), Mousebirds: Coliidae – a small family unique to Africa. Speckled Mousebird (Colius striatus) – CT, W (comical as they swarmed the feeders and fruit trees). White-backed Mousebird (Colias colius) – WC, K Red-faced Mousebird (Urocolias indicus) – K, Kr Hoopoes: Upupidae Eurasian (“African”) Hoopoe (Upupa epops africana) – Kr (this race is sometimes split as a separate species, the African Hoopoe). Woodhoopoes & Scimitar-bills: Phoeniculidae – another uniquely African family Green Woodhoopoe (Phoeniculus purpureus) - Kr Common Scimitar-bill (Rhinopomastus cyanomelas) – Kr (surprisingly frequent in the broadleaf ). Hornbills: Bucerotidae African Gray Hornbill (Lophoceros nasutus) - Kr Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill (Tockus leucomelas) – Kr (we enjoyed all of the hornbills, but these guys came right up to the dining room balcony at Notten’s for handouts). Southern Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus rufirostris) - Kr Kingfishers: Alcedinidae Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris) – Kr (a favorite around Notten’s). Striped Kingfisher (Halcyon chelicuti) - Kr Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis) – WC (at the Berg River). Bee-eaters: Meropidae Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus) – Kr Rollers: Coraciidae Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudatus) – Kr (this game drive favorite is big, colorful and conspicuous in the dry woodlands). Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller (Coracias naevius) – Kr African Barbets: Lybiidae Crested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii) – Kr (a colorful favorite). Pied ( Pied) Barbet (Tricholaema leucomelas) – WC, K Black-collared Barbet (Lybius torquatus) – Kr, W (impressive vocal duets). Honeyguides: Indicatoridae * Wahlberg’s (Brown-backed) Honeyguide (Prodotiscus regulus) – W Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor) – WC (good studies at one in the old oaks at the Pleasant Pheasant winery, likely parasitizing the local Cardinal Woodpeckers). Woodpeckers: Picidae * Rufous-necked Wryneck (Jynx ruficollis) – W (a scarce and local bird seen quite well).

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera abingoni) - Kr * Ground Woodpecker (Geocolaptes olivaceus) – W (a very specialized endemic; scope studies of a pair on the boulders at the base of a mountain). Cardinal Woodpecker (Dendropicos fuscescens) – WC, Kr Bearded Woodpecker (Dendropicos namaquus) - Kr Falcons & Caracaras: Falconidae Rock Kestrel (Falco rupicollis) - CGH, CT, WC, K, ECT, W (this southern African form is now split from the Eurasian or Common Kestrel (F. tinnunculus). Greater Kestrel (Falco rupicolides) – K (pair perched in a lone eucalyptus tree amidst the vast dry succulent Karoo). New World & African Parrots: Psittacidae Brown-headed Parrot (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus) – Kr (dexterous as they fed on the seedpods of low bushes). Wattle-eyes & Batises: Platysteiridae Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor) – Kr (these interesting and attractive little birds were quite common and conspicuous, including the vicious fight between two females). Pririt Batis (Batis pririt) – K Vangas, Helmetshrikes & Allies: Vangidae White Helmetshrike (Prionops plumatus) – Kr (sociable birds that roam the woodlands in small extended families). Bushshrikes & Allies: Malaconotidae – the largest family of birds endemic to Africa. Brubru (Nilaus afer) - Kr Black-backed Puffback (Dryoscopus cubla) - Kr Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalus) - Kr Brown-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra australis) - Kr (Laniarius ferrugineus) – CT Bokmakierie (Telophorus zeylonus) – WC, K, W (a colorful favorite in the fynbos and karoo habitats, seen and heard as they sat up and displayed. All of the bushshrikes were quite interesting and different from any of our North American birds). Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike (Telephorus sulphureopectus) - Kr Gray-headed Bushshrike (Malaconotus blanchoti) – Kr (these big, colorful and secretive bush- shrikes were surprisingly frequent in the woodlands). Shrikes: Laniidae ( collaris) – WC, K, ECT, W Magpie (Corvinella melanoleuca) - Kr Old World Orioles: Oriolidae African Black-headed Oriole (Oriolus larvatus) – Kr (regular in Notten’s Camp). Drongos: Dicruridae Fork-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus adsmilis) – Kr Monarch Flycatchers: Monarchidae African Paradise-Flycatcher (Terpsiphone viridis) – Kr (males in full breeding plumage that just arrived back on the breeding grounds). Crows, Jays & Magpies: Corvidae Cape Crow (Corvus capensis) – ECT, W Pied Crow (Corvus albus) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT, Kr, W White-necked Raven (Corvus albicollis) – CGH, WC, K, ECT : Chaetopidae Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) – ECT (this iconic Cape endemic is in a serious decline, so we were quite lucky to have scope studies of a nice male in the recently-burned fynbos). Larks: Alaudidae – an important family in , with many regional endemics. Spike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata) – K, W

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 * Eastern Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda semitorquata) - W Karoo Lark (Calendulauda albescens) – K Karoo Lark (Calendulauda albescens) – K Karoo Lark (Calendulauda albescens) – K * Eastern Clapper Lark (Mirafra fasciolata) – W (glimpsed). * Rufous-naped Lark (Mirafra afrricana) - W Red-capped Lark (Calendrella cinerea) –WC, K, W Botha’s Lark (Spizocorys fringillaris) – W (the rarest of all of the larks seen and some of our best looks at any of them, as a pair calmly fed in a flat overgrazed grassland. This species has a tiny world range and is considered endangered). Large-billed (Thick-billed) Lark (Galerida magnirostris) – WC Swallows: Hirundinidae Plain Martin (Riparia paludicola) – CT, WC, K, W Rock Martin (Ptyonoprogne fuligula) – CGH, WC, K, ECT Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) – CT, WC White-throated Swallow (Hirundo albigularis) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W (a beautiful and widespread breeding swallow just arriving back). Greater Striped-Swallow (Cecropis cucullata) – ECT (seen by a few in Hermanus). Lesser Striped-Swallow (Cecropis abyssinica) - Kr Rufous-chested Swallow (Cecropis semirufa) - Kr * South African Swallow (Petrochelidon spilodera) – W Black Sawwing (Psalidoprocne pristoptera) – ECT (a good find at Harold Porter). Fairy-Flycatchers: Stenostiridae Fairy Flycatcher (Stenostira scita) – K (a fast-moving specialty of the dry scrub). Tits, Chickadees & Titmice: Paridae Southern Black-Tit (Melaniparus niger) - Kr Bulbuls: Pycnonotidae Sombre Greenbul (Andropadus importunus) – CT, Kr Common Bulbul (Pycnonotus barbatus) – Kr, W Cape Bulbul (Pycnonotus capensis) – CT, WC, K, ECT African Warblers: Macrosphenidae Cape (Long-billed) Crombec (Sylvietta rufescens) - Kr Cape Grassbird (Sphenoeacus afer) – CGH, ECT (a large and neatly-patterned “warbler” that sat up quite well for us at the Cape of Good Hope). Victorin’s Warbler (Cryptillas victorini) – ECT (heard only; on hillside at Harold Porter in an inaccessible location). Reed-Warblers & Allies: Acrocephalidae Lesser Swamp-Warbler (Acrocephalus gracilirostris) – CT, WC, W Grassbirds & Allies: Locustellidae Little Rush-Warbler (Bradypterus baboecala) – CT, WC, ECT (hd), W (hd) Cisticolas & Allies: Cisticolidae Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica) – CT, WC Yellow-breasted Apalis (Apalis flavida) - Kr Rufous-eared Warbler (Malcorus pectoralis) – K (this elusive little bird of the low Karoo shrubs gave us an excellent close looks). Rattling Cisitcola (Cisticola chiniana) - Kr Red-headed (Gray-backed) Cisticola (Cisticola subruficapilla) – WC, K, ECT * Wailing Cisticola (Cisticola lais) - W Levaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens) – CT, WC, W Cloud Cisticola (Cisticola textrix) - WC * Wing-snapping Cisticola (Cisticola ayresii) - W

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Karoo Prinia (Prinia maculosa) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT Namaqua Prinia (Prinia substriata) – K (secretive endemic of the thick bush and Phragmites along the dry creekbeds of the Karoo). Yellow-bellied Eremomela (Eremomela icteropygialis) - Kr Sylviids: Sylviidae Layard’s Warbler (Sylvia layardi) - K Rufous-vented Warbler (Sylvia subcaeruleum) – WC, K White-eyes, Yuhinas & Allies: Zosteropidae Cape White-eye (Zosterops capensis) – CT, WC, K, ECT Laughingthrushes & Allies: Leiothrichidae Arrow-marked Babbler (Turdoides jardineii) - Kr Sugarbirds: Promeropidae Cape Sugarbird (Promerops cafer) – CT, ECT (this spectacular Cape endemic favors the flowering and was seen best, at very close range, at Kirstenbosch). Old World Flycatchers: Muscicapidae Dusky-brown Flycatcher (Muscicapa adusta) – CT (seen at the Cellars-Hohenhort by some of the group that arrived a day early). Gray Tit-Flycatcher (Fraseria plumbea) - Kr Ashy Flycatcher (Fraseria caerulescens) - Kr Fiscal Flycatcher ( silens) – CGH, WC, K, ECT Southern Black-Flycatcher (Melaenornis pammelaina) - Kr Karoo Scrub-Robin (Cercotrichas coryphaeus) – WC, K Red-backed Scrub-Robin (Cercotrichas leucophrys) - Kr Cape Robin- (Cossypha caffra) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT, W Sentinel Rock- (Monticola explorator) – ECT, W (repeatedly seen at close range in the sparse hilly grasslands, often on fence posts). Cape Rock-Thrush (Monticola rupestris) – near Ceres, ECT African Stonechat (Saxicola torquatus) – WC, W * Buff-streaked Bushchat (Saxicola bifasciatus) – W (endemic to the rock-strewn high grasslands. Just one of the many members of the “chat group” than we saw). * Southern Anteater-Chat (Myrmecocichla formicivora) – W Sicklewing Chat (Cercomela sinuate) – WC (in the wheatfields). (Cercomela schlegelii) – K (the most frequently seen in the dry Karoo). (Cercomela tractrac) - K (Cercomela familiaris) – K, ECT Mountain (Oenanthe monticola) – K, W Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata) – WC, K, W Thrushes & Allies: Turdidae Groundscraper Thrush (Psophocichla litsitpsirupa) - Kr Kurrichane Thrush (Turdus libonyana) - Kr Olive Thrush (Turdus olivaceus) – CT, WC, ECT Karoo Thrush (Turdus smithi) – K (a recent split from the Olive Thrush). : Sturnidae European (Sturnus vulgaris) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W (introduced). (Creatophora cinerea) - Kr * Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis) – W (introduced). Red-winged Starling (Onychognathus morio) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT, W Burchell’s Starling ( australis) – Kr (big, colorful and common). African (Lamprotornis bicolor) – WC, K, W Greater Blue-eared Starling (Lamprotornis chalybaeus) - Kr Cape Starling (Lamprotornis nitens) – Kr, W

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Oxpeckers: Buphagidae Red-billed Oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) – Kr (what a unique foraging niche!). Sunbirds & Spiderhunters: Nectariniidae Orange-breasted Sunbird (Anthobaphes violacea) – CGH, ECT (an especially beautiful sunbird endemic to the fynbos of the southwestern Cape). * Amethyst Sunbird (Chalcomitra amethystine) – W Scarlet-chested Sunbird (Chalcomitra senegalensis) – Kr Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT (stunning males in full breeding plumage) Southern Double-collared Sunbird (Cinnyris chalybeus) – CT, CGH, WC, K, ECT Mariqua Sunbird (Cinnyris mariquensis) - Kr White-breasted (-bellied) Sunbird (Cinnyris talatala) – Kr & : Cape (Motacilla capensis) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W African (Grassland) (Anthus cinnamomeus) – CT, WC, Kr, W * Long-billed Pipit (Anthus similis) - W Orange-throated (Cape) (Macronyx capensis) – CT, WC, W (beautiful grassland specialist convergent in appearance with our meadowlarks). Yellow-throated Longclaw (Macronyx croceus) – Kr Buntings & New World Sparrows: Emberizidae Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi) - Kr Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis) – CGH, WC, K, ECT, W Golden-breasted Bunting (Emberiza flaviventris) - Kr , Euphonias & Allies: Fringillidae Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs) – CT (introduced). Cape Siskin (Pseudochloroptila totta) – ECT (scarce endemic seen on our rockjumper search). Cape Canary ( canicollis) – CT, WC, ECT, W Yellow-fronted Canary (Serinus mozambicus) - Kr Forest Canary (Serinus scotops) – CT (close look at Kirstenbosch). Brimstone Canary (Serinus sulphuratus) – CT, WC Yellow Canary (Serinus flaviventris) – WC, K White-throated Canary (Serinus albogularis) – WC, K Protea Canary (Serinus leucopterus) – in the proteas in the mountains near Ceres Old World Sparrows: Passeridae House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) – WC, K, ECT, W (introduced). Cape Sparrow (Passer melanurus) – CT, WC, K, W Southern Gray-headed Sparrow (Passer diffuses) – WC, Kr, W Yellow-throated Petronia (Petronia superciliaris) - Kr Weavers & Allies: Ploceidae Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver (Bubalornis niger) - Kr Cape Weaver (Ploceus capensis) – CT, WC, K, ECT, W (interesting behavior and nests). Lesser Masked-Weaver (Ploceus intermedius) - Kr Southern Masked-Weaver (Ploceus velatus) – CT, WC, K, Kr, W * Village Weaver (Ploceus cucullatus) – W Red-billed Quelea (Quelea quelea) – Kr, W Southern Red-Bishop (Euplectes orix) – CT, WC, ECT, W (in the Cape region it was a real treat to see gorgeous males in full-breeding plumage; the hordes on the Wakkerstroom Extension were all in drab non-breeding plumage). Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis) – WC * Fan-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes axillaris) – W (non-breeding plumage). * Long-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes progne) – W (non-breeding plumage).

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Waxbills & Allies: (Coccopygia melanotis) – WC (inland at the Pleasant Pheasant winery). Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild) – K Southern Cordonbleu (Uraeginthus angolensis) – Kr (common, in small flocks). Green-winged Pytilia (Pytilia melba) – Kr Cut-throat (Amadina fasciata) - Kr Indigobirds: Viduidae Eastern Paradise -Whydah (Vidua paradisaea) – Kr (non-breeding plumage).

MAMMALS: this list follows “Mammals of the World: A Checklist” by Andrew Duff and Ann Lawson. The list order and some names are different from those on our Field Checklist.

Hares & Rabbits: Leporidae Scrub Hare (Lepus saxatilis) - Kr Squirrels: Sciuridae Eastern Gray Squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis) – CT (introduced). Smith’s Bush Squirrel (Paraxerus cepapi) - Kr Mice, Rats, Voles & Gerbils: Muridae Four-striped Grass Mouse (Rhabdomys pumilio) – CT Bush (Karoo) Vlei Rat ( unisulcatus) – K (huge nest seen too). African Mole-Rats: Bathyergidae Cape Dune Mole-Rat (Bathyergus suillus) – CT, WC (what a weird and wonderful creature to have out by day! This is the largest of the molerats; their closest relatives are the porcupines). Cats: Felidae Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus) – K (captive animals at the Inverdoorn rehabilitation center). Leopard (Panthera pardus) - Kr Lion (Panthera leo) - Kr Mongooses: Herpestidae Cape (Small) Gray Mongoose (Herpestes (Galerella) pulverulentus) – WC, K, ECT Common Slender Mongoose (Herpestes (Galerella) sanguinea) - Kr Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale parvula) - Kr * Yellow Mongoose (Cynictis penicillata) – W (numerous). * Suricate (Meerkat) (Suricata suricatta) – W (several groups of these delightful animals). Hyenas: Hyaenidae Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta) - Kr Eared Seals & Sealions: Otariidae Cape (South African) Fur Seal (Arctocephalus pusillus) – CT, CGH, ECT Otters, Weasels & Badgers: Mustelidae * Spotted-necked Otter (Lutra maculicollis) - W Bats: small to medium-sized insectivorous species seen – K, Kr, W Old World Monkeys: Cercopithecidae Chacma Baboon (Papio ursinus) – CGH, ECT Vervet Monkey (Chlorocebus (Cercopithecus) pygerythrus) - Kr Right Whales: Balaenidae Southern Right Whale (Balaena australis) - ECT Pigs: Suidae Warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) - Kr Hippopotamuses: Hippopotamidae Hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) – K Giraffes: Giraffidae Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) – K, Kr

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017 Cattle, Antelope, Sheep & Goats: Bovidae Rhebok (Pelea capreolus) – K (hills north of Ceres), W Springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis) – WC, K, W Steenbok (Raphicerus campestris) – WC Sharpe’s Grysbok (Raphicerus sharpei) - Kr African Buffalo (Synceros caffer) – Kr Nyala (Tragelaphus angasii) - Kr Bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus) - Kr Greater Kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros) – K, Kr Eland (Taurotragus oryx) – CGH, WC, W Gemsok (Oryx gazella) - K Black Wildebeest (Connochaetes gnou) – W Blue Wildebeest (Brindled Gnu) (Connohaetes taurinus) – WC, K, Kr Blesbok/Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus) – CGH, WC (the “Bontebok”), W (the “Blesbok”). Impala (Aepyceros melampus) – Kr Bush Duiker (Sylvicapra grimmia) – WC, Kr Horses: Equidae Burchell’s (Common/Plains) Zebra (Equus burchellii) – K, Kr Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra) - WC Rhinoceroses: Rhinocerotidae White Rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum) - Kr Hyraxes: Procaviidae Rock Hyrax (Procavia capensis) – mountain near Ceres, ECT Elephants: Elephantidae African Savanna Elephant (Loxodonta africana) – Kr

AMPHIBIANS & : Guttueral (Raucous) Toad (Bufo gutturalis) - Kr Striped Stream Frog Southern Rock Agama (Agama afra) - Tree agama (Agama atricollis) - Flap-necked (Chameleo sp?) (Bradypodium pumilum) – WC Striped skink sp?

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 South Africa & Wakkerstroom Extension, 2017