Wagon Tracks Volume 22 Issue 2 Wagon Tracks Volume 22, Issue 2 (February Article 1 2008)
2008 Wagon Tracks. Volume 22, Issue 2 (February, 2008) Santa Fe Trail Association
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SANTA FE TRAIL ASSOCIATION QUARTERLY
VOLUME 22 FEBRUARY 2008 NUMBER 2
. SFTA BOARD MEETING COUNCIL GROVE, KANSAS THE SANTA FE TRAIL MARCH 28-29, 2008 PAST AND PRESENT SFT RENDEZVOUS by Marc Simmons LARNED, KANSAS SEPTEMBER 18·20, 2008 . [SFTA life member Marc Simmons, first president and "Father of the RENDEZVOUS 2008 Santa Fe Trail Association," re SEPTEMBER 18-20 turned to the Trinidad Symposium in 2007 to deliver the keynote ad by Ruth Olson Peters dress, which follows. He was the key Sister Patricia Jean Manion and Presi [SFTA Treasurer Ruth Peters is Di note speaker at the first symposium dent Catherine Mueller, Sisters of rector ofthe Santa Fe Trail Center at in 1986. The entire membership of Loretto, at marker dedication. Larned.] SFTA, past and present, extend HISTORIC MARKER HONOR PLANS are underway for Rendez heartfelt thanks to Simmons for his vous 2008! It promises to be a great writings and constant support of the ING SISTERS OF LORETTO Association from its beginnings.] DEDICATED IN SANTA FE program, so mark your calendars now to attend, September 18-20 in are back! Yes. Mter twenty by Patricia Jean Manion, SL WE Larned, Kansas. The theme for this one years we have returned to the [Sister Patricia Jean is a member of year's Rendezvous is "The Evolution birthplace and cradle ofthe Santa Fe SFTA and the author of Beyond the of Freighting on the Santa Fe Trail." Trail Association-to the beautiful Adobe Wall that covers the years of Talks will begin with discussion Of little city of Trinidad, Colorado, lo establishment of the Sisters of the private proprietors during the cated at the northern entrance ofRa Loretto in New Mexico from 1852 early trail years from 1821-1846. tOl} Pass, where the Mountain Route 1894. This book is available through The next speakers will move on to of the old Santa Fe Trail crosses the Last Chance Store.] military freighting from 1846-1848, Purgatoire River. Yes indeed. We are THE arrival in the Territory of New the large freighting companies of back. .Mexico on September 26, 1852, of 1848-1866, and end with discussion The title of my address this morn four Sisters of Loretto was cele of the smaller companies during the ing is "The Santa Fe Trail Past and brated in Santa Fe on December 1, last days ofthe trail from 1866-1880. Present." Actually, I want to begin 2007. The celebration started at 9:00 The opening program will .be held with the present and do a bit of sum a.m. in the now-historic Loretto at the Santa Fe Trail Center with a ming up and reminiscing about the Chapel where letters were read special presentation about foods first twenty years of this organiza about the journey and the sisters' eaten while ,traveling the Santa Fe tion', noting what has been achieved first years in New Mexico. At 10:00 Trail. Another program of interest in keeping alive the memory of this a.m. the marker by the river at E. will be about mule packing. There wonderful old Trail. Alameda and Old Santa Fe Trail was will be a special evening where clips It all started with Joy Poole, now unveiled by Santa Fe Mayor David from old Santa Fe Trail movies will officially recognized as the Mother of Coss after New Mexico First Lady be shown, with commentary. The the Santa Fe Trail Association. In Barbara Richardson.cut the ribbon. last afternoon of the event will take late 1984 she persuaded the Colo Catherine Mueller, SL, current pre place at Fort Larned National His rado Historical Society to hold a sident of the Sisters of Loretto, Den-' toric Site, with demonstrations and Santa Fe Trail Symposium in Trini ver, offered the blessing.. activities related to freighting. The dad during the fall of 1986. Joy was The marker bears on the front the seminar will end with a retreat cere then administrator of the Baca names of the first four Sisters to ar mony at Fort Larned and dinner in Bloom Museums here in Trinidad, rive in Santa Fe, Mother Magdalen the historic Quartermaster Store and they were part of the Colorado Hayden, Sisters Rosanna Dant, Rob house. Historical Society system. erta Brown, and Catherine Ma All members of the Santa Fe Trail Joy also had the idea of using the honey. On the reverse side, it calls Association will receive registration occasion of the Society's Symposium attention to Mother Lucia Perea who materials in the mail this summer to form' a Santa Fe Trail organiza , became the first native of New Mex for Rendezvous 2008. ,For questions tion. And so she asked to have a spe ico named as superior of Loretto regarding the seminar, contact the cial session tacked on at the end of Academy in 1896. Santa Fe Trail Center 620-285-2054, the regular program to do just that. (continued on page 11)
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PRESIDENT'S COLUMN All matters relating to Wagon WAGON TRACKS (ISSN 1547 THE political analysts say that Tracks should be directed to SFTA 7703) is the official publication of Editor Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, the Santa Fe Trail Association, a 1968 was a defining year for Ameri~ Woodston KS 67675. nonprofit organization incorpo can politics and the history of the Toll-free Phone: 888-321-7341 rated under the laws ofthe State of United States. It was also an impor FAX: 785-425-6865 Colorado. Letters and articles are tant, year for the nation's trails. On E-Mail:
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historic time·period, some trail trav Routes, and Quivira chapters. Each eluded are the Granada to Fort Un elers used both trails to reach their chapter is unique and very proud ion Road and the Fort Hays-Fort destinations, and as the railroad and protective of its portion of the Dodge Road. These are just a couple pushed westward, trade goods were trail. And each chapter has a differ of examples of several that deserve brought by the Iron Horse to various ent flavor and feel. I encourage all our attention and consequent protec towns along the Smoky Hill Trail members to visit a neighboring chap tion. which served as the trailhead for ter or one far away. You will come Please think about your vision of goods being transported further on away, like me, impressed and more , the Santa Fe Trail. What should it the Santa Fe Trail. The Fort Hays excited about what has been done on look like in five years? What kind of Fort Dodge Road and the Fort the Trail and what is being done. I developments do you want to see or Harker-Fort Larned Road are just look forward to the rest of my chap not want to see along the Trail? two examples of military roads that ter visits. IfI wasn't in this position, 'What concerns you in your local area linked these two trails. As president I would be envious of myself! about what might happen to Trail re of SFTA, I offer my full support to On March 28 and 29 we are hav· mains and sites? You can pass those the Smoky Hill Trail Association in ing a board meeting, strategic plan, thoughts on to your chapter presi its endeavors to become a National and committee workshop at Council dents, to board members and offi- Historic Trail. Grove, Kansas. We are inviting the . cers, or to me. We will use them at Not only is 2008 the 40th anniver board members, chapter presidents, our March meeting (and you are sary of the National Trails System and committee chairs to join to more than welcome to attend also). Act, it is also the year for Rendez gether to assess how the association And you can find the strategic plan vous. Co-hosted by the Santa Fe has accomplished the goals first set at
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ticipants, more than ever before, and preserve cultural resources for the I...... _ __..BI~LL;;.S;;.O;;.D;",;E;,;.;R;;.;,M.;;.A,;,;.N,;",.... __ I nearly all the 25 National Scenic and enjoyment of the American people.!. William W. Soderman, Las.Vegas, Historic Trails were represented. The Partnership for the National NM, president of the Corazon de los The individual sessions and field Caminos Chapter ,of SFTA, diea Trails System has designated 2008 trips along the North Shore were as a year of commemoration of this December 16, 2007. He was 69 years outstanding. old. He was' formerly a staff member 40th anriiversary. In fact, the plan is The Partnership's new Strategic of the Phoenix Museum of History to initiate a "Decade of National Plan is working well. New people, and more recently' was a health Trails" that leads to the 50th anni have been elected to the board, and a information technician in medical versary in 2018. dozen new committees are working records for the New) Mexico The purpose of this initiative is to well with close toa hundred people Behavioral Health Institute. He was provide a vehicle to raise the public's involved. a member of the Las Vegas Opera ,awareness of the National Trails Guild, member of the board of the I appreciate Jeff Trotman attend- System, to promote and support Rough Riders Museum, and a , ing and participating fully in every events along the trails to commemo member of the Las Vegas Citizens, thing that went on. Also attending rate this anniversary, support' our Committee 'for Historic Preserva were several of our National Park ,member organizations (including tion. Condolences are extended to his Service ,partners, including Aaron SFTA) as they organize trail events, family and friends. ; Mahr, John Conoboy, Mike Taylor, ' arid to attract the attention of both Steve Burns', and Andrea Sharon, public and private partners to enable I D. RAY BLAKELEY '·1. Congress has passed a Depart the family of National Scenic and Historic Trails to·grow. } D. Ray Blakeley, president of the ment of the Interior appropriations Cimarron Cutoff Chapter of SFTA, bill, and it is good news for the Santa We are very pleased that our old died December 19, 2007. He was 62 Fe Trail. It contains a substantial in friend J,ere Krakow, recently retired years. old. D. Ray was born and crease for the National Park Service National Park Service Long Dis raised in Clayton, NM, and he came office in Santa Fe. tance Trails Superintendent, is from a family with deep roots in My thanks to the chapter presi chairing the 40th Anniversary Com Union County. I:Ie was a well-known dents, committees, board, and others mittee. Very soon, printed materials character in Union County for many for sending me the totals oftheir vol will be circulated to trails organiza years because of his work as a unteer hours and dollar donations tions. A, special video' will also be newspaper reporter and a radio for 2007. I am missing a few re available. announcer. He was one of the sponses, but I have filled in a few To kick off the 40th Anniversary founding members of the Union blanks and have sent the totals to' commemoration, a special,dinner County Historical Society which Gary Werner at the Partnership of has been scheduled on February 13 ,operates the Herzstein Memorial fice. Congress likes these reports. during Advocacy Week in Washing , Museum, and he served as director of Pat and I will leave for Washing ton, D.C. This is an awards and fund the museum from 2001"2006. He was ton, D.C., on February 7 and spend a raisjng dinner annually sponsored a fount of knowledge about. the week in Partnership meetings, visit by the National Resources Council of history Union County and the rest of ing congressional offices and the America. This year it will be jointly New Mexico. He was active in many variqus agencies of our government. sponsored by the Partnership. community organizations. He will be It is a hard week, but fun because we One of the unique features of the m,issed by family and numerous are always well received when we Act is that it contemplates each of friends along the Trail. talk about trails. And Pat is good the designated .national trails, cur help. rently twenty-five in number, to be PNTS REPORT managed by a public-private part " by Ross Marshall ' The Partnership continues to pursue its mission of promoting the nership involving an administering [Marshall is the SFTA representative National Trails System, securing federal agency such as the National to the Partnership for the National funding for our NPS partner;' Park Service along with a private Trails System.} fostering federal agency collabor side nonprofit group such as 'the THE Partnership's 11th Confer ation, and providing support for its SFTA. This experiment, which per ence was held in Duluth, MN, Sep members like SFTA. mits federal funding to be used with tember 7-11, hosted by the North private management, has worked ex NATIONAL TRAILS SYSTEM ceptionally well and Congress con Country Trail Association, with the ACT 40th ANNIVERSARY theme of "Healthy Trail Partner tinues to be more pleased with the' ships-Healthy Trail Resources." by Ross Marshall results as the years go by. This was a scenic location on the OCTOBER 2, 2008, is the 40th an Our country's National Trails Sys s.hores ofLake Supe.rior, and the con niversary of the passage of the Na tem is unique. Commemorating the ference was the most successful we tional TrailsSystem Act by the U.S. 40th anniversary of the Act is not' have ever had.. There were 180 par- Congress. This Act provides for the only appropriate but will open doors' designation by Congress of individ of opportunity for all our trails that we have not yet imagined. .Mor'e YOUR MEMORY CAN LIVE ON ual scenic and historic, trails. of na- REMEMBER THE SANTA FE TRAIL tional significance to be admitted to information will be available soon as ASSOCIATION IN YODR WILL a select family of national trails to plans and materials are developed.
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A RECENT VENTURE ON have endu-red to reach a new life. We notebook. Running back to the jeep I THE SANTA FE TRAIL stopped at the stump of the "Council jumped in next to my mom and .Oak" where, in 1825, a treaty was showed her the record ofpeople with by Martha Hammonds signed between the Osage Indians the same spirit that had made the [Martha Hammonds, Peoria, AZ, is a and the U. S. Government, and for way West.' We hunted for a pen. As new member o(SFTA and offered to $800.00 the U.S. obtained the right we opened that little notebook and share these experiences which led her of way for a public highway, the read the names from around the tp join the Association. Even today, Santa Fe Trail. world, we looked for a blank space there is nothing better than a trip on Pawnee Rock in Kansas is the and proudly added our own. the Santa Fe Trail.} place where hundreds of pioneers KAW MISSION COUNCILS OK, so there is no proof anywhere stopped to write their names in the PROGRAMS 2008 in our line that we are descendants soft sandstone as they traveled to of gypsies. Given to wander- ward an unknown future. In 1848, by Mary Honeyman lust as we are, however, I cannot James Birch, a soldier on his way to [SFTA member Honeyman is admin help but believe that one of those the Mexican War, 'wrote: "Pawnee istrator of Kaw Mission State His olive-skinned exotic types is not hid Rock was covered with names carved toric Site in Council Grove.} by the men who had passed it. It was den somewhere under a branch of THE Kaw Mission Councils 2008 so full that I could find no place for the family tree. My family loves road educational program series, "Our mine." Choosing the Mountain trips. I suppose it is not that my par Fabulous Flint Hills: The Hills Are Route, we followed the Trail through ents actually chose road trips as a Alive!" will be presented at the Kaw Colorado, and at 2:00 a.m., in the preferred manner of travel. I suspect Mission State Historic Site in Coun pouring rain, located the mail box in it was the fact that both my parents cil Grove, Kansas. In 2008 we cele Timpas that held the little book put were public school teachers support brate the seventeenth anniversary of there so modern-day Trail travelers ing a family of six, and it was the our series by highlighting the Kan can leave their mark. cheapest way to go. sas Flint Hills-alive with cultural, Regardless of the economics, the My mom and I had taken this trip natural, and historic resources trips were an adventure to us. I am to spend some time together, but also Program Schedule not sure that homemade sandwiches to remember all trips we had taken Thursday, February 7, 7 p.m.: "Lucy and potato salad have ever tasted as as a family, the trips when my dad Tayiah Eads: Only Female Chief good as when eaten in the back seat was still alive. We talked about how, of the Kaw," Pauline Sharp, of a 1960 Ford somewhere between when I was two, my parents had Granddaughter of Eads. Tucumcari, New Mexico, and Amar packed up what we had and left a lit tle town on the Mississippi River Saturday, March 15, 3:30 & 7 p.m.: illo, Texas. Pink Hostess snowballs, "Simply Sublime Statistics: The somewhat disgusting in any other named Caruthersville (part way be tween Cooter and Bragadoccia) and Flora And Vegetation of the Flint venue, became the required road Hills," Craig Freeman, Curator, trip fare. And then of course there headed for better jobs in Phoenix, Arizona. We talked about the trips R. L. McGregor Herbarium, Kan was the whole issue of driving style. sas Biological Survey. While my father "just wanted to get when we got lost and the times my there," my mom was terrific about al dad would sleep while mom drove, Saturday, April 19, 3:30 & 7 p.m.: lowing us to stop to buy junk at truck taking us on routes off the freeway "Birds and Mammals of the Flint stops (you couldn't beat a genuine because she wanted to see something Hills," Bob Gress, Director, Great leather Indian beaded wallet), see di different. We also talked about the Plains Nature Center. nosaur bones, petrified wood, and trip when I was six when we placed Saturday, May 17, 3:30 & 7 p.m.: the world's largest prairie dog town. my grandmother's body on a plane "Snake Stories," Joe Collins, Her Several years ago, looking for ad and made the sad trip back to Mis petologist, Kansas Biological Sur venture of course, my mother Jo and souri to bury her in a little cemetery vey & Suzanne Collins, Wildlife I decided to follow the old Santa Fe in Fillmore, next to her husband and Photographer. Trail by car. Starting at the National six of her eleven children. Saturday, October 18, 3:30 & 7 p.m.: Trails Museum in Independence, The pioneers had come a long way. "Ghosts in the Grass: In Search of Missouri, our destination was the They set out on a trip to a far away ForgottEm Voices," Marva Weigelt, Palace of the Governors in Santa Fe. place, not knowing if they would Homestead Ranch, Chase County. Following a book and a map, we trav even make it. On their way out west The Friends of Kaw Heritage, Inc. eled the old West, sometimes follow they got married, birthed babies, and and the Kansas Historical Society ing the ruts of wagons from almost buried loved ones. They sat under sponsor the Kaw Mission Councils 200 years ago through places like the stars and talked about their 2008 educational program series. Council Grove, Cimarron, and Bent's dreams. They left their marks in the Free refreshments compliments of Old Fort. We traveled through small ruts of the prairie and on the face of FKH. For additional information, town America where main streets Pawnee Rock. contact the Kaw Mission State His were lined with little white houses And so it was at 2:00 a.m. in toric Site, 620-767-5410 or
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, OLD DAN AND HIS TRAVELING COMPANIONS: OXEN ON THE SANTA FE TRAIL . i by David K. Clapsaddle [SFTA A'mbassador Clapsaddle is tender feet. Josiah Gregg wrote that, "Thus the head is maintained in a president of the Wet/Dry Routes in th.e early days of the Santa Fe fixed position, and they pull or Chapter and a frequent contributor. trade, oxen were shod with what he rather push by the force of the neck,' to WT. Additional information about called moccasins made ofraw buffalo which of course, is kept constantly oxen may be found on the Internet at hide. This invention worked rather strained upward."12 The American
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denounce the practice of beating author in recent years had the oppor essary, never letting the end of the oxen under all circumstances."16 tunity to talk with a Flint Hills yoke drop till he gets him to his in However, such was not the case with rancher who imported cattle from side hind wheel, to which he should the Mexican drivers. J ames Mead re Mexico. He observed, from time to always have his fourth chain at called, "The drivers were known as time, a pair of steers which appeared tached, and chain him up; then drop 'bull whackers' or 'mule skinners,' to be inseparable; they were together the end of the yoke and 'go for' the mostly semi-Indian half civilized, constantly. Upon closer inspection, near leader, with the bow in his right faithful, brown skinned, with hair of he found that the animals were shod, hand, key in his left, put the bow on jet hanging on their shoulders, a sure sign of their draft animal his neck gently, and lead him up to wielding lashes with such skill as to status in Mexico. Thus, it would ap the off leader and yoke him; hitch his cut a rattlesnake's head off at 20 pear that the yoking of oxen pro lead chain in the staple, laying the feet, or cut through the hide of an re duced a reciprocation by which the other end of it over the near leader's fractory OX."17 animals maintained a steadfast rela back, by which to hitch his off second Perhaps more effective then the tionship, working or not. ox, and then for the rest as the lead whip were the voice commands ofthe Tom Cranmer's regulations stipu ers, till he gets back to his pointers, driver. Walking near the head of the lated, "See that all hands temporar which is the yoke next to his wheel wheelers (yoke closest to the wagon), ily mark their cattle the first time ers. Yoke them together anywhere.in he spoke well recognized commands they unyoke, so they may be able to the corrall, as he did his wheelers. the oxen learned quickly to obey.18 recognize them afterwards."24 Rob For this reason, his fifth, or·point Originally, gee-up meant to move up. ert Howard recalled, "One driver tied chain by which his pointers pull is on In time, the command became gid bits of black cloth to the tails of his his gap, and the fourth chain, which dap. Gregg wrote that a simple hep team."25 Another scheme employed is next in front of them, his leaders was the command to move forward. by the freighters was "coloring" the are chained by, so then drive his Gee was the command to turn right; cattle. James Meline remarked on ox pointers up to their proper place, haw was the command to turn left. trains he observed in Leavenworth stop them gently, and go for his Whoa, originally ho, was the com in 1866, "Each wagon team consist fourth chain, hitch them to his team, mand to stop.19 With regard to other ing often yokes offine oxen, selected and drive out at the rear gap, ifhe is voice commands, Cranmer wrote, and arranged not only for drawing farther from the front than the two "No loud cursing, swearing, or fright but for pictorial effect, in sets of third wagons. When he gets his team ening of cattle should ever be al twenty, either all black, all white, all to its proper place, go for his fifth lowed in the corral."2D spotted or otherwise marked uni chain and hitch on."28 In the settled part of the country, formly."26 Mark Gardner opined that Once all the teams were yoked, calves at an early age would be yoked this "was likely the bullwhackers' the wagon master would call out the together and exercised daily. Small system for quickly identifying their well recognized command of "stretch training yokes were used and some oxen in a train's large herd at yok out." The oxen slowly began the day's times sliding (adjustable) yokes were ing."27 work as the loaded wagons creaked employed to accommodate the ani As previously noted, the large under their heavy loads. At this mals' growth. The calves were al freighting firms issued explicit direc point, mention needs to be made of lowed to grow to full maturity at age tions as to handling of oxen. In tedi the phenomenon called "cold col three before being castrated. This al ous detail, Cranmer set forth the lars."29 For whatever reason, oxen lowed the animal to mature into a procedures for yoking. "The moment were reluctant to enter a stream strong animal before the neutering the cattle are all in the corral, the early in the morning. Consequently, process rendered him more docile.2i command should be given by the they would only do so after being Freighters on the frontier did not Wagon Master or Asst., 'Yoke up!' driven around the camp grounds for have the luxury of time to train oxen. Every teamster should immediately a mile or so. For this reason, among Rather, they often purchased ma enter the corral with his wheel yoke others, the caravan would always ture but unbroken (green) steers at under his left arm, or on his left cross a stream in the evening before the trailheads and immediately put shoulder, and in as good a humor as making camp. them into service. Unbroken oxen possible, holding the bow belonging Once underway, the wagons had would be yoked and stationed be on the off wheeler in his right hand, to halt early in the morning after tween pairs of experienced oxen. the key in his left. As soon as he finds traveling a half hour or so for some There they had no choice in spite of his off wheeler he should approach ten minutes to allow the cattle to uri their protestation by means of back him gently, put the bow on him, and nate and take a "breather." Without ing and bawling but to proceed in yoke him; the key in properly, drop the halt, the oxen could not perform step with their broken brothers.22 the end of the yoke, and go for the well for the rest of the day. 3D As the caravan proceeded, the near wheeler in like manner, put the Another stop called "nooning" was green oxen remained yoked together bow on him and lead him up; when made at 10:00. Cranmer mandates day and night for some two weeks. his wheelers are yoked, he should four hours for the stop. This allowed Thus, they were forced not only to drive them out at the most conven the oxen time,to graze, rest, and for- . work together but to eat and sleep to ient gap, and hitch them to his tify their strength after the morn gether on a 24-hour basis. Subse tongue, and then go for his off leader ing's pull. It was also the recom quently, they performed as broke in like manner, yoke him, take out mended time for breakfast. Cranmer oxen in an amicable manner.23 The the other bow, tap him lightly if nec- cautioned: "Never get breakfast be-
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fore the morning drive; corral about sleeves lined with red; and, as I said, one such occurrence. "Late in No 10 o'clock,. and lay by about four it was very warm; so I pulled off my vember, 1846 the twenty-eight hours; here you rest during the heat jacket, or coat, and in pulling it off wagon train of Bullard, Hook & Co. of the day, but if you ge't breakfast turned it inside out. We had an old ox carrying merchandise to Santa Fe, before the morning drive, you will be named Dan, a big, old fellow with. crossed the Arkansas at Cimarr~n in the dust and the heat of the day." rather large horns, and ~o gentle we Crossing and camped in the sand Other regulations called for two- used him as a horse in crossing hills on the south side of the river. three hours.31 ' streams, when the boys often During the night a blizzard blew in Following the nooning, the cara mounted him and rode across. Dan from the northwest so quickly .and van would resume the trip until was always lagging behind, and this violently that the oxen panicked, evening. Cranmer wrote the follow day more than usual, on account of broke through the guard and scat ing instructions, "Corral in the even the heat. The idea struck me to make tered out in the darkness over ing about sunset, giving yourselves him carry the coat. I caught him and snowy, wind-swept plains. Three
time to water your cattle and get by dint of a little stretching placed mules died,. ,and twenty oxen disap- them on the grass before dark, but in the sleeves over his horns and let the peared in the storm. The teamsters the autumn, yoU: should drive a little coat flap down in front. cached their goods, absmdoned half later in the evening, as the days are "I hardly realized what I had done their wagons and made for Bent's getting short. Never hurry your cat until I took a front view of him. He . Fort, 150 miles west, with the goods tle to water in hot weather-they presented a ludicrous appearance, they could carry in the thirteen wag .drink better after they graze and cool with his great horns covered with ons for which they had oxen."36 a half hour or SO."32 Josiah Gregg re red and the yellow coat flapping . A final liability of oxen was their ported that in the early days of the down over his face. He trudged along susceptibility to disease. At times all Santa Fe trade, the oxen were teth unconscious of the appearance he the oxen in a caravan would succumb ered at night, "Of later years' the presented. I hurried him along by re to murrain, a catchall term for any tethering of oxen has also been re peated punches with-my carajo pole, number of infectious diseases. Such sorted to with advantage. It was for in dressing him up he had gotten was the case with. a caravan belong thought at first that animals thus behind. I could not but laugh at the ing to the Irwin, Jackson and Com
confined byropes could not procure a IlJdicrous sight, but my laughter was pany in 1863, when I every animal sufficient supply of food; but experi soon turned to regret, for no sooner was lost.37 ence has allayed all apprehension on did old Dan make his appearance In spite of the previously men the subject. In fact, as the camp is al among the other cattle than a young tioned liabilities, the oxen had a ways pitched inthe most luxuriantly steer bawled. out in the steer lan number of advantages, ,the chief as clothed patches ofprairie that can be guage, as plain as good English, set being cost. James Josiah Webb selected, a mule is selqom able to dis 'Great Scott! what monstrosity is purchased oxen at $28 per yoke from patch in the course of one night, all this coming among us to destroy us?' C. S. Owen in 1844. In 1866, oxen the grass within his reach. Again, and, with one long, loud, beseeching sold for $75 to $145 per yoke, unbro when animals are permitted to range bawl, put all the distance possible ken steers, $110 to $120 per yoke; at liberty, they are apt to mince and between himself and the terror be mules, $~00-$400 per span.38 In ad ,nibble at the tenderest blades and hind him. All his brothers followed dition to the initial cost, oxen had the spend their time 'in roaming from his example, each one seeing how advantage over mules because their point to point, in search of what is much louder he could bawl than his keep was much cheaper. Their most agreeable to their 'epicurean neighbor, and each one trying to out finely-tuned digestive system could' palates'; whereas if they are re run the rest. I thought to myself, convert the rough forage of the stricted by a rope, they will at once 'Great guns! what have I done now!' I Southwest into nutritional value at fall to with'earnestness and clip the quickly and quietly stepped up to old no cost to the traders. On the other, pasturage as it comes."33 Dan, fearing that he t<;>o might get hand, mules were grain dependent Oxen had a number of liabilities, away, and with the evidence of my and the price of corn was high on the not the least of which was "spook guilt, took from his horns and head frontier. In 1849, according to Don ing." They, like horsel:> and mules, what had created one of the greatest ald Chaput, the annual cost of keep were sometimes caught up in the ex stampedes ever seen on the plains, ing a mule, including grain, medi citement of a buffalo stampede and and placed it on my back, where it cine, wages for the wagon master, ran away with their wild cousins.34 belonged. In the meantime the loose and farrier services was $275.39 Add Distractions of less magnitude were cattle had caught up with the wag to that amount the pounds of freight likewise alarming. Robert Wright ons, and those attached to the vehi displaced by the grain needed to feed tells ofone such incident. "I was driv cles took fright and tried to keep up the mules and the costs rose. Finally, ing the cavayado (cave-yard-that is, with the cavayado. In spit~ of all the the costs incurred in outfitting oxen the loose cattle). The Mexicans al drivers could do, they lost control of were slight, $5.00 for a chain and ways drove their cavayado in front of them, and away they went, making a $5.00 for a yoke. Compare those fig . their trains, while the Americans in thundering noise. One could see ures with the price of mule harness. variably drove theirs behind. I had nothing but a big cloud of dust. The In 1859, harness for a ten-mule team ground seemed to tremble."35 . cost $300-$600.40 . on. a heavy linsey-woolsey coat, , manufactured from the loom in Mis Storms were another threat. Beyond the advantages ofoxen re~ souri, lined with yellow stuff, and the Janet Lecompte repeated the story of lated to cost, the record is replete
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with references to other variables. wrote, "We were obliged to leave one Grove by way of a ferry near Kaw's Thomas Forsyth wrote, "oxen will of our Horses this morning, some mouth where the column crossed the answer for provisions,"41 and Henry tired, poor, and sick." The horses had Missouri. From there the cominaria Walker stated, "In mud or sand, the an opportunity to rest for the next marched 25 miles to the Grove where cloven hoof of the ox gave a better eleven days as the survey team they met with the trade caravan purchase for heavy pulling then the waited for a courier with news that moving southwest from Independ small hoof of the mule."42 the party had permission to enter ence. Remarking on the last leg of Such assets made the ox the most Mexican Territory. The courier did the trip, Otis Young concluded that popular draft animal on the Trail. not come, and part of the team re the "twenty five miles was a respect However, the popularity was not turned to Missouri while Sibley re able figure, and nearly twice as far concomitant with the genesis of the sumed the survey with the remain as oxen were thought capable of go Santa Fe trade. Rather, the popular ing men. Sibley's party reached Taos ing."50 ity came on the heels of horses and Gap on October 19. There, the com Leaving Round Grove on June 12, mules, a full decade after William missioner gave thought to his next the escort preceded the caravan cap Becknell's first trip to Santa Fe. course of action. Confiding to his tained by Charles Bent. Without in On his inaugural trip to Santa Fe, journal, he wrote, "If I had at cident, the entourage arrived at the • William . Becknell set forth from tempted to reach S[an]ta fee, by way Upper Crossing of the Arkansas Franklin, Missouri, on September 1, [of] San Miguel, my Horses must River on July 9. There, the escort re 1821, with five companions and a nearly all have failed, ~nd many of mained in camp as the caravan string of pack horses carrying $300 them been lost. If I attempt to haul crossed the Arkansas and proceeded worth of trade goods. On his return the Waggons over the Mountains south into Mexican territory. With trip, he arrived back at Franklin in loaded as they are, the Horses must the caravan was a yoke of oxen January 1822 with specie, mules, necessarily fail. If I leave the Wag loaned to Bent. Bent observed that asses, and Spanish blankets.43 gons & Pack· the Horses, still the the oxen performed better than Horses must fail, & probably the horses or mules in the absence ofwa In early May 1822, another Santa Waggons be lost entirely. If I hire Fe-bound expedition headed by Ben ter. Young stated, "Bent simply was Mules to pack my Baggage &c. over interested in learning whether he jamin Cooper and his nephew Ste to Taos, I believe I shall be able to get phen Cooper left Franklin with pack could not replace his expensive the empty Waggons over the Moun horses and mules with cheaper horses laden with merchandise val tains, and thus at a small expense ued at $4,000-$5,000.44 Later in the oxen." save all my Horses and Waggons, & The caravan returned to the Ar same month, Becknell departed Fort prove the existence of a Waggon Osage on his second trip to Santa Fe, kansas on October 12, and two days route over the Mountains into the later the caravan and escort began this time with three wagons loaded Valley of Taos: And I determined, with trade goods and drawn by the return trip to Missouri. En route, 45 upon all these considerations, to the traders complained that the es horses. In May of the following adopt the latter plan." On the follow year, Stephen Cooper led a party of cort was moving too far in a single ing day, he dispatched John Walker day and they had trouble keeping 31 men from Missouri, each man and Singleton Vaughan to Taos to with one or two pack horses carrying pace. At the Little Arkansas River, bring back mules to pack the bag the traders split into small groups goods for the Santa Fe trade. Return gage over the mountains. On the ing to Missouri in November of the and proceeded on without escort. 24th, Walker and Vaughan returned Riley's command continued on the same year, the traders brought back with the mules, and by the 30th, the jacks, jennets, and mules, a quantity Santa Fe Trail to a point east of 110 party, safe and sound, arrived at Mile Creek where they turned north of beaver pelts, and a considerable Taos.48 sum of specie.46 As reflected in the east to cross the Kansas River and above citations, Alphonso Wetmore In reviewing the evolution of draft marched on to Leavenworth, arriv stated in 1826 that the merchandise animals used in the Santa Fe trade, ing at the cantonment on November destined for Santa Fe was "trans Josiah Gregg wrote, "As soon as the 8. 51 The performance of the oxen was ported by means of horses raised means for procuring these animals earlier assessed by an unidentified here [Missouri] ."47 [mules] increased, the horse was officer of Riley's battalion, "Since we gradually and finally discarded, ex have traveled upon the prairie, we However, the horse soon proved to cept for occasionally riding and the be less than adequate for long dis have made good progress for our ox chase."49 Gregg, of course, was refer teams-some days twenty-five miles. tance travel. Such was demonstrated ring to the animals taken in trade by by the failure of horses used in the .. many officers of the command the Missouri merchants with their thought the ox teams could not per 1825 survey of the Santa Fe Trail. Mexican counterparts. Leaving Fort Osage on July 17, the form the trip; but I had great confi survey team made its way to Mul Regardless, the mule's claim to dence in them, and we now find some berry Creek on September 6, a dis fame began to fade with the intro days, it troubles the traders with tance of 314 miles. George Sibley, duction of oxen in 1829 by Brevet their mule teams to keep up with one of three men appointed to over Major Bennet Riley during the first US."52 see the survey, recorded, "our Horses military escort onthe Santa Fe Trail. Charles Bent was equally im tired and poor and Several of them Departing Cantonment Leaven pressed. In 1831, he conducted a actually give out." When the survey worth on June 3, Riley's battalion caravan to Santa Fe, all of the wag team broke camp on the 9th, Sibley made a circuitous trip to Round ons drawn by oxen.53 Subsequently,
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the number of oxen employed in the Americans, the Mexicans had come 1870. Scott's diary entry of Satur Santa Fe trade grew in great num to prefer the ox as their primary day, August 30 reads as follows. bers. As Josiah Gregg reported, beast of burden. Though accounts of "Started from Carson at 7 o'clock, "Since that time, upon an average Mexican oxen do not frequently ap and in one halfhour came, to a sandy about half the wagons in the expedi pear in American records, William bottom where there were several tions have been drawn by oxen."54 In Bell in 1867 reported one such narra mule teams stuck, but by dint of his 1839 expedition, Gregg wrote tive. "From Salina to Fort Harker whipping and shouting they got that the caravan was made up of our course took us along the traveled through. In our train, they put nine "fourteen road-wagons, half drawn road to Denver and New Mexico, and yoke ofoxen toone wagon, but it took by mules, the others by oxen."55 Such plenty of company we had on the a great deal of shouting in their own a pattern would extend through the way. At every mile or so we would Mexican lingo, and a great deal of genesis of the Mexican War in 1846. pass long ox-trains heavily laden cracking of these terrible bullock Prior to that date, caravans were, in with goods (I have counted as many whips before we got through. The the main, composed of several pro as eighty wagons in a train), and if 'lash' oftheir whips is about 12 to 14 prietors, each of which opted for the we found the bad roads difficult, how feet long and the handle about two draft animals of his choice. much worse was the traveling for feet with a buckskin cracker and the The war with Mexico produced a them! Each wagon carrying from crack of them is like a pistol going decided change in Santa Fe Trail 6,000 Ibs. to 8,000 Ibs., would be off. These fellows can swing their traffic. The tons upon tons of sup drawn by eight, sometimes ten, yoke whips round their heads and strike a plies needed for troops in the South ofoxen, which number would require terrible blow."60 west were transported via the Santa about three 'bull,whackers' (gener Without question, by the time of • Fe Trail by the U.S. Army Quarter- ally swarthy Mexicans) 'to help them Scott's journey, most Mexican master Department with miserable' along,' with, their heavy leather freighters and their American r'esults. The army had little experi thongs. When one of these wagons counterparts had come to view the ox ence with overland freighting and , stuck fast in a gulley, it was amusing as their preferred draft animal. As thus their teams and teamsters per to see the enormous amount of brute early as 1860, the Seth M. Hays formed in a most unacceptable man force which was applied to pull it out. Company recorded that from May 24 ner. Realizing that the military was The oxen from two of the wagons to October 1 the numbers ofoxen and ill-equipped for such freighting, the which had passed safely across mules "passing west" through Coun army began to contract with large would be attached to the one in diffi cil Grove' were as follows: mules, freighting companies for the trans culties' making a continuous string 5,819; oxen 22,738.61 Five years portation of materiel and supplies. of from eighteen to twenty yoke. To later, Charles Withington reported These companies chose to use oxen accomplish even this, usually re that from May 21 to November 25, or mules exclusively; but soon, most quired an amount of swearing and 1865, 38,281 oxen as compared to ofthe animals employed by the huge torturing on the part of the drivers 6,452 mules crossed his toll bridge'at firms were oxen.56 which would be startling to the 142 Mil'e Creek in present Lyon Half of the civilian trade on the nerves of most men not reared on the County, Kansas.62 Thus, at that Santa Fe Trail by the early 1840s plains. When all was ready, and a date, oxen outnumbered mules at had come under the control of Mexi dozen 'bull-whackers' had taken' the rate ofmore than six to one. Such can merchants.58 Mexican domina their places along each side of the is testimony to the persistent plod tion of the civilian trade continued line of oxen, a frightful shout would ding beasts, without which the story through the 1860s and 1870s when fill the air, followed by the fierce of the Santa Fe Trail might well be the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern cracking of whips on the devoted told from a different perspective. Division (later Kansas Pacific Rail hides, and the usual chorus of en Notes way) and the Atchison, Top~ka and dearing terms. The poor oxen, thus 1. Robert West Howard, The Wagonmen Santa Fe Railroad rendered obsolete goaded on to madness, would give (New York: G. P. Putmans Sons, 1964),23 24, 147, the huge freighting firms such as one tremendous tug, the usual finale ofwhich used to be, not in the least to 2. Henry Pickering Walker, The Wagonmas Russell, Majors and Waddell. In , ter (Norman: University of Oklahoma their place, forwarding companies move the wagon, but to break the Press, 1966), 107, such as'Ortero, Sellar and Company thick iron chain which fastened all 3, Winifred Blevins (comp,), The Wordsworth contracted with freighters of less together. As we retired out of sight Dictionary of the American West (Hert magnitude to deliver merchandise over the brow ofthe next undulation fordshire, England: Wordsworth Editions .of the plain, we would usually leave Ltd. Cumberland House, 1995), 163. from the various railheads to Santa 4. Walker, Wagonmasters, 107.. Fe and other points in the South our Mexican friends trying in vain to stop the loosened string of oxen (who 5. Thomas F. Burns, "The Town of Wilmington west. In turn, the same freighters de and the Santa Fe Trail," Kansas State His livered Santa Fe goods to the rail could not be persuaded they were not torical Society Transactions, 6 (1900): heads. By way of example, Morris dragging something), preparatory to 599. ' Taylor reported that from West Las going through the whole process 6, Josiah Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies again."59 (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, Animas, Colorado Territory, "In one 1958),25. week of July 1874, 182,863 pounds of A similar story was told by P. G. 7. David Clapsaddle, "Did You Know?," wool were shipped from there, and Scott, who secured passage with Traces, 6 (Summer 1993): 3. the average shipment of hides was Dolore Pathea's caravan from Kit 8. From a conversation with Michael Bur given as 87,000 pounds."58 Like the Carson to Trinidad, Colorado, in , dett, DVM, August 10,2007, Larned, Kan-
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sas. Oklahoma Press, 1978), 192. LORETTO MARKER DEDICATION 9. Furniture in this context is an archaic term 37. Walker, Wagonmasters, 109. (continuted from page 1) for a set of fittings or necessary equip 38. Ibid., 106- 107. ment. 39. Donald Chaput. Francis X. Aubry, Trader The names of two other sisters 10. Eliot Wiggins (ed.), "Making an Ox Yoke," and Trailrnaker in the Southwest (Glen who started the journey from Ken Foxfire 2 (Garden City, New York; An dale: Arthur H. Clark Company, 1975), tucky in 1852 should also be remem chor Press/Doubleday, 1973), 112-117. 71. 11. Tom C. Cranmer, Rules and Regulations 40. Walker, Wagonmasters, 103. bered: Mother Matilda Mills died of By Which To Conduct Wagon Trains 41. Ibid., 106. cholera on the riverboat Kansas near Drawn By Oxen On The Plains (Kansas 42. Ibid., 107-108. Independence, Missouri, and Monica City: Commercial Advertised Job Bailey, also suffering from cholera,' Rooms, 1866), 9; Eggenhoffen, Wagons, 43. Louise Barry, The Beginning of the West Mules, and Men (New York: Hastings (Topeka: Kansas State Historical Society, had to remain in Independence for a House Publishers, 1961), 109, has a 1972),97. later caravan. Before the arrival of sketch of three different types of keys. 44. Ibid., 1O~. the railroad, other Sisters of Loretto 12. Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies, 147. 45. Ibid. • traversed the Trail in 1855, 1858, The dimensions for the chain were taken 46. Ibid.. 110. and 1867. On the 1867 journey, from one in the author's personal collec 47. Augustus Storrs and Alphonso Wetmore, young Sister Alphonsa Thompson tion. Santa Fe Trail First Reports (Houston: died. Her remains. are still being \' 13. Mark L. Gardner, Wagons for the Santa Stagecoach Press, 1960), 61. Fe Trade, (Albuquerque: University of 48. Kate L. Gregg (ed.), The Road to Santa sought by her grand niece, Dr. Alice New Mexico Press, 2000), 10. Fe: The Journal and Diaries of George Anne Thompson. Dr. Thompson's 14. Ibid.. 144. Champlin Sibley (Albuquerque: Univer new book about that 1867 journey, 15. Howard, Wagonm_en, 32-33. sity of New Mexico Press, 1995), 34-76, 105-1 11. American Caravan, is now available 16. Cranmer. Rules and Regulations, 11. through the Last Chance Store. 17. James R. Mead, Hunting and Trading on 49. Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies, 24. the Great Plains 1859-1875 (Norman: Uni 50. Otis E. Young, The First Military Escort on . The Scenic Historic Marker versity of Oklahoma Press, 1986), 46-47. the Santa Fe Trail, 1829 (Glendale, CA: Program was initiated in 2006 by 18. Cranmer, Rules and Regulations, 12. Arthur H. Clark Company, 1952),71-86. .Pat French, Beverly Duran, and 19. Howard, Wagonmen, 26; Gregg, Com 51. Ibid., 148-163. Alexis Girard of the New Mexico merce of the Prairies, 36. 52. Stephen G. Hyslop, Bound for Santa Fe Women's Forum. It was through 20. Cranmer, Rules and Regulations, 10. (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 2002),113. their efforts that Governor Bill 21. Eggenhoffen, Wagons, Mules, and Men, 109, has a nice sketch of an adjustable 53. Barry, Beginning of the West, 207. Richardson and the New Mexico yoke. 54. Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies, 24-25. Legislature appropriated funds to 22. Walker, Wagonmasters, 110-111. Walker 55. Ibid., 229. prepare and install the markers. has a different take on breaking a green 56. Gardner, Wagons, 7. There are 53 additional markers ox. He has him yoked with "an already 57. R. L. Duffus, The Santa Fe Trail (Albuquer honoring women still to be placed in broken steer." que: University of New Mexico Press, the State. The Sisters of Loretto 23. Ibid.. 111. 1975),134. marker is the first. 24. Cranmer. Rules and Regulations, 26. 58. Morris Taylor, First Mail West (Albuquer 25. Walker, Wagonmasters, 111. que: University of New Mexico Press, TRAIL TROUBADOUR 26. James F. Meline, Two Thousand Miles on 1971),164. Horseback (Albuquerque: Horn and 59. William A. Bell, New Tracks in North Amer -Traffic in Verse Wallace, 1966),3. Coloring was also a ica (Albuquerque: Horn and Wallace practice of the U.S. Dragoons. Per com PUblishers, 1965),26-27. Sandra M. Doe, Editor' pany, the horses were variously colored 60. P. G. Scott, "Diary of a Freighting Trip This column seeks poetry which roan, bay, black, etc. During the 1868 from Kit Carson to Trinidad in 1870," addresses the history, realism, ro 1869 winter campaign against the Colorado Magazine, 4 (July 1931): 146 mance, and diversity ofthe Trail and southern plains tribes, Lt. Col. George A 147. Custer revived the practice. Capt. Al 61. John D. Cruise, "Early Days on the Union demonstrates authentic emotion, bert Barnitz reported that all company Pacific," Kansas Historical Collections, 11 original images, and skill in crafts commanders were ordered "to ex , (1909-1910): 533. manship. Please submit poems for change horses so as to secure a uniform 62. Mamie Stine Sharp, "Homecoming Cen ity of colors in each company." Robert consideration to Sandra M. Doe, tennial Celebration at Council Grove, Dept. of English, Campus Box 32, M. Utley (ed.), Life in Custer's Cavalry June 27 to July 2, 1921," Kansas Historical (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, Collections, 16 (1923-1925), 554. Metropolitan State College of Den 1977), 204. ver, PO Box 173362, Denver CO 27. Gardner, Wagons, 9. RULES AND REGULATIONS 80217-3362. 28. Cranmer, Rules and Regulations, 9-10. FOR WAGON TRAINS In "Territory," Sister Cecily Jones, 29. The phenomenon was also called "cold hitch-hot-hitch." THE 28-page booklet, Tom SL, speaks as a persona, creating the 30. Raymond W. and Mary Lund Settle, War Cranmer's Rules and Regulations, by voice of another Sister of Loretto, Drums and Wagon Wheels (Lincoln: Uni which to Conduct Wagon Trains Mother Magdalen Hayden, who tra versity of Nebraska Press 1966), 175. (Drawn by Oxen on the Plains), 1866, veled the Trail in 1852 with other 31. Cranmer. Rules and Regulations, 25. has been reprinted by the WetlDry members of the order to establish 32: Ibid., 26. Routes Chapter and is available schools in New Mexico. Sister Cecily 33. Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies, 44. from Last Chance Store, PO Box 3, Jones constructs a prayer and a 34. Ibid.. 45. Woodston KS 67675 for $2 postpaid. meditation about "heading out to the 35. R. M. Wright, "Personal Reminiscences of Frontier Life in Southwest Kansas," KSHS This is a rare and informative item, territory," skillfully turning her Transactions, 7, (1902): 48. including the duties of wagon mas poem on both meanings of the word " ." . 36. Jane Lecompte, Pueblo, Hardscrabble, ter, his assistant, teamsters, night terntory. and Greenhorn (Normon: University of herders, and others. On the one hand, "territory"
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means land charted, terrain under TRAIL PAST AND PRESENT a phenomenon and SFTA owes a the jurisdiction of a government and (continued from page 1) great deal to her, for which we ex thus known; so the 'speaker knows tend her a hearty thank you. accommodating, agreed.. place as "settlements' on meandered Now I wish to acknowledge one of. roads," the seasonaqle stability of "a •.' The afternoon before the Sympo the premier figures in the entire sketch of redbud in the spring" and SIUm op.ened, a few ofus got together modern "national trails movement" t~ the "roof' of tree branches ;s her do a httle ad hoc preliminary plan and perhaps also our most eccentric geography, nmg for the upcoming organizational member. meeting. Looking back now, I see , On the ,other hand, "territory" That could be none other than means land uncharted, a geography that the date for that little powwow was September 11, 1986. Of course, Gregory M. Franzwa, formerly ofSt. of indeterminate extent. So the Louis, then of Tucson for many speaker quavers before the "track that date held no special significance for us then. years, and more recently a resident less sweep," and she prays for "some ofUtah. Greg is known as the author' parcel not as vast as all the sky." Besides myself and Joy Poole, Leo of a number of books on western , Of course, travelers sometimes Oliva from Kansas was there and so trails, and he also happens to be one was the late Merrill Mattes or-the entertain thoughts' of death, when Associ~tion ofthe fiercest advocates oftrail pres they step over the wide "horizons at Oregon-California Trail ervation. And I might add that in his the edge of the earth," embracing and Jere Krakow of the National dedication as an activist he is not them as new "territory" and Park Service, along with a couple of afraid to step on toes. others. . ?ecoming one with "the journey till I first got to know Greg in 1983 Its end." In the end, the speaker Our main point of discussion in when I attended the charter confer volved the steps that would be neces prays for divine transformation. She enc~ of,.the newly-formed Oregon requests the ability to measure her sary to found a viable association. It Cahforma TraIls Associationf path, her "territory," her road, to so happened that Leo Oliva in a rash (OCTA), which convened in Inde ~oment map her journey "to scale" which she, volunteered to edit and pub pendence. Behind the scenes, Greg hsh a quarterly newsletter. So, in may measure in the "territory" ofher was a. m8:jor force in launching the heart. Itis a: fine tribute to those'first' ,that moment Wagon Tracks was orgamzatIon. Sisters of Loretto who traveled the born, I'm sure that Leo had no idea that twenty-one years hence he His influence became critical for Road to Sflnta Fe in 1852. us in the spring of 1986. At that time Territory wouldbe back here with twenty-one , volumes of that quarterly under his there ~as a bill pending in Congress by Sister Cecily Jones to deSIgnate the Santa Fe Trail as a . ' belt. Sisters of Loretto ~at~onal Historic Trail ,under juris I hope everyone in this hall is (Reflections of Magdalen Hayden as dIctIon ofthe National Park Service. a\,,:are that without our superb peri she prepares to set out from Inde- . odIcal, the Association could not The bill was meeting with some pendence, Missouri, for the Territory have survived, 10 these many years. problems and there existed no citi of New Mexico, August 1, 1852) For Wagon Tracks, much honored zen advocacy group to marshal sup port for it. Our first Santa Fe Trail What do I know of territory, God? and ,often copied in coptent and for My geography holds counties, states T?at by other new trail organiza-' Symposium here in Trinidad was settlements along meandered roads' tIons, our Wagon Tracks, is the glue still six months in the future. , and the way a creek can carve a that holds us together. Well, Greg Franzwa persuaded boundary. Besides that, its backfile-those OCTA and his fellow Octogenarians It's not the role of leading that I dread twenty-one volumes preserved in to take up the slack and send a dele but the tease of wondering gation to Washington to lobby in con and the fear of no cartography. librar.ies-will forever remain a major repOSItory and contribution to the gressional halls on behalf of the Territory troubles me history of the Trail. Santa Fe Trail bill. So OCTA out of so I seek maps and compasses ' its 'meage~ treasury ponied up and all the tools of certainty from you I should add, too, that in the $2,500 to dIspatch such a delegation because the trackless swe'ep ahead struggle to produce Wagon Tracks to lobby, not on behalfoffunds for its almost overwhelms my heart. ', four times a year, Leo's wife and own trail, but rather on behalf of the Transform the territory into acreage steadfast helpmate Bonita Oliva has Santa Fe Trail. And that was mainly that I can grasp: land or district, area, been there, slaving in the trenches. ' Greg's doing. - some parcel not as vast as all the sky. So, both are deserving of our heart I know Missouri rivers, Kentucky knobs, felt thanks. Initially,' the whole delegation a sketch of redbud in the spring, was made up of Oregon-California , Another person I need to mention, Trail folks, including their president. trees whose branches roof a road ~.h0 in atlas of'dimensions I can measure. ?ates fr?m that first Sympo s~um But Greg thought they needed some m 1986, IS Ruth Olson Peters. I body from one of the Santa Fe Trail o God, convert immensity to scale smgle her out because Ruth is the states to lend credibility to their ef more the size that I can calculate only person who became an officer the way fences can be charted ' forts. Therefore, he contacted me then and to this day, in an unbroken or garden plots or a stand of cedars and lured me to Washington, all ex term of service, is still on the job, at Transform the journey till its, end . penses paid, to join in winning~ver when horizons at the edges of the t?e moment holding down the posi Congress. tIon oftreasurer. She is little short of earth' th~ become the territory of my heart, 'In the end, we were successful,
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Santa Fe Trail bill passed and was burst upon the trail scene. was not even an American. He was signed by President Ronald Reagan I know that quite a few of our Antonio Barreiro, a young Mexico in May 1987. charter members who were present City lawyer who was'sent 1,600 Now I can tell you as an eyewit in 1986 are back with us this morn miles up the Camino Real to serve as ness that Greg Franzwa had proved ing. Could I see a show ofhands, just legal advisor for the Mexican provin to be one tough bulldog of a lobbyist. to give us a visual idea of the num cial governor at Santa Fe. By contrast, I personally found the bers? Now, most upper-class people in whole experience unnerving, frus Thank you. Mexico City at that time thought of trating, and intimidating. Or to put Unfortunately, so many of our New Mexico as a wasteland inhab it mildly, I was not very effective. staunch and dedicated charter mem ited by rough country bumpkins. An To this day, Greg relates anec bers have passed on in the twenty tonio Barreiro initially may have dotes about my failures in that line. one years that followed our founding. had that negative view. But not for Sometimes he's been known to men But I know for a fact that the lives of long because he was soon becharmed tion them in print, and I'll have to nearly all of them were greatly en by rustic 3anta Fe and by the equally confess that I'm a little embarrassed riched and brightened by their par rustic New Mexicans. when I read his words. ticipation in the Santa Fe Trail Asso And they seemed to like him too, And yet, I cannot fault Greg be ciation. perhaps because he was no stuffed cause everything he says about my I know that because they told me shirt putting on big city airs. monumental ineptitude as a con so. They took pride in attempting to One of the few things we know gressionallobbyist, every bit of it, is attend every Symposium, and just as about his activities in Santa Fe was absolutely true. soon as we got the chapters up and that he wrote and published in 1832 Anyway, back in 1986, as acting running, they hurried to support a descriptive account of New Mex president, I handed out our first them. ico's land, people, and economy. It's batch of Awards of Merit to people The real work between Symposi one ofthe best accounts from a Mexi who had benefited the Santa Fe Trail ums, of course, goes on in the chap can source we have of that era. in some notable manner. One of ters. That's where the action is. They From Barreiro's writing, we know those Awards went to Greg Franzwa, are the backbone of the Association. that he was mightily impressed by who couldn't be present. So after And I heartily commend everyone what he called "the brisk commerce ward, I had to mail it to him. who has joined and supported their with North America," by which he He intended to be with us today, local chapters. meant the United States. By the but once more circumstances inter I would also like to express my time he first set foot on the plaza, the vened and he could not. I had gratitude to all the past presidents, international Santa Fe trade opened planned to present him with a proc including the current one, Joanne by William Becknell of Missouri was lamation honoring his many accom VanCoevern, for picking up the ba just a decade old. Yet, already busi plishments in the service of the ton and pushing the Association for ness was humming. Santa Fe Trail. Therefore, with his ward during their terms of office. As Barreiro said: "This commetce tory repeating itself, I'll be mailing From the vantage point of 2007, is carried on by regularly scheduled him this award. SFTA's future continues to look caravans which arrive at Santa Fe in To wind up. my narrative of bright. July. These caravans are composed SFTA's founding: Our first Sympo Thus far, I have been 'reflecting of 90 to 100 wagons loaded to capac sium here in Trinidad turned out to upon the first twenty-one years· of ity with merchandise." be a resounding success. The Colo our grand organization. But now I With all that traffic, you can see rado Historical Society expected want to turn to the past and make why he might have been excited about 50 people to show up, mostly some observations about the glori when viewing the entry of those scholars and museum employees. ous, exciting, romantic, and some enormous wagon caravans into But what happened? times tragic history of that splendid Santa Fe. Some 250 registrants were on entity known as the old Santa Fe Now, with this background let me hand opening day. What a shocker! Trail. For after all, that's why we read you Antonio Barreiro's sundi(ll Most of them were ordinary indi have come to Trinidad, isn't it? To reference, which is what I've been viduals from the five· Trail states get to know that Trail a little better? preparing you for. "In the center of who had long nourished an interest For this part of my keynote, I the plaza," he says, "set on an adobe in, and even a passion for, Trail his want to take as my theme some base about 3 yards high is a rock sun tory, but didn't have anyone in their words inscribed on a sundial that dial which is the only public clock to own vicinity with whom to share once stood at the end of the Santa Fe guide the authorities and their em that interest. Trail. In fact, it was located in the ployees. It was constructed by Gov. Thus when this opportunity arose, center of the old plaza at Santa Fe. Antonio Narbona (1825-1827). The you came out of the woodwork, trav .As near as I can tell, only one per following maxim or saying is in eled to Trinidad, and here reveled in son ever mentioned in writing the ex scribed upon it: Vita fugit sicut um a program of lectures, panels, tours, istence of that sundial, even though bra." and special events. Then you re hundreds ofpeople who came in over That inscription in Latin given us turned home and spread the word the Trail must have seen it. by the. young lawyer translates as: that something new and exciting had The one man who wrote about it "Life fleeth like a shadow."
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Years ago when I first ran upon veling that our return and this anni pIe thereafter would cast a backward Barreiro's description of the sundial, versary came so quickly. glance in their old age and express a I wanted to learn more about it. I I know I'm wondering because feeling of nostalgic loss because it \ thought surely it was unusual that first Symposium seems to have was all over-gone with the winds of enough that some Missouri mer occurred last year and even just last vanished years, the Trail seemingly chant, ox drover, or mule skinner month. Yes, how time slips away. gone in the twinkling of an eye. Oh, coming up the Trail would have And life fleeth like a shadow. how fast the time had flown by! taken .note of it in his journal or At this point I'd like to call atten The person who best caught the memOIrs. tion to a couple of people who trav true spirit of the Trail was Marian And then there were all the sol eled the Santa Fe Trail in the 'old Sloan Russell, a figure closely identi diers who marched over the Trail days and in the old way. And I want fied in her later years with Trinidad. from Fort Leavenworth with Gen to report on statements they made Not long ago, the Smithsonian eral Stephen W. Kearny's Army of after their journeys were over and af Magazine in a Santa Fe Trail article the West in 1846, the first year ofthe ter the hardships, discomforts, and referred to Marian Sloan Russell as Mexican War. Many of them wrote dangers they experienced had begun "the best known woman to have trav up their experiences, but as near as I to fade from memory. eled the trail." Actually, Bonita and can tell none of them spoke of the It's a curious phenomenon, and Leo Oliva had made that same obser plaza sundial. .1 many of you have noticed this, that vation as early as 1993 in an article Actually, by 1846 I think it likely people in their golden years tend to published in Wagon Tracks. that the sundial was gone, perhaps look back on the past as being'far Marian's name was not yet fa demolished by Governor Mariano rosier than it really was. That seems mous back in 1978 when I made my Martinez in 1844 when he redes to be a natural human tendency. . first complete trip over the Trail igned and rehabilitated the plaza. In In the case of the men and women from Santa Fe to the original trail any case, what is of interest to me is who braved the Santa Fe Trail, I head at Franklin, Missouri. Then, the inscription: "Life fleeth like a think the fond memories they often her magnificent book of memoirs, shadow." It turns out that line comes maintained late in life sprang from called Land of .Enchantment, pub from the Old Testament, the Book of the excitement and joy they once felt lished 1954 in a small edition, this Jobto be exact. in being part ofan important chapter charming book had become buried Now I doubt that Governor Nar in western history. and forgotten. That was the situa bona who constructed the sundial To that was added their recollec tion I found in 1978. knew Latin, since he was a profes tion of the camaraderie among trav But then three years later, the sional soldier. Which makes me elers, the beauty of unspoiled land .University of New ·Mexico Press think that the priest in the large scape, their heightened senses ne (1981) brought out a new edition of church just off the plaza was un cessitated by living inconstant peril, Land of Enchantment. For it I was doubtedly the one who selected the or in summary, out there on the Trail privileged to add an Mterword, ex inscription right out of the Latin Bi those people had felt truly and com tolling .the value and virtues of the ble. And certainly no more fitting pletely.alive. book. Its sudden availability made words from scripture could have Rememberance of that stayed Marian Russell visible and led to her been placed on a town clock than current celebrity status. these: "Life fleeth like a shadow." with them, long after the adventure was over and they were confined to In print, I've described Marian's From a purely religious perspec their rocking chairs. reminiscences as having a lyrical tive, those words remind the individ quality that serves as a tribute to the ual to get his spiritual house in or Josiah Gregg expressed the mat ter eloquently in his classic account Santa Fe Trail and its era. Her entire der, for at any moment he might be life, as is plainly evident in the book, summoned to face his maker. of the overland trade, Commerce of the Prairies, published in 1844. Writ was clearly shaped by her early-day Even apart from the religious con ing about his first Trail trip made in connection with tl;tat Trail. notation, the maxim from the sun 1831, he declared: "The effects ofthis Mter all, little Marian Sloan was dial reminds us that in reality the journey begat in me a passion for only seven years old when she years dissolve behind us like butter prairie life I never expect to.survive." started out on the Santa Fe Trail melting on a griddle and we should In other words, he was saying that from Fort Leavenworth· with her make good use of every precious mo mother Eliza and older brother Will. ment. he got hooked on the Trail or prairie life and thought he would never get That was to be the first of a number Some of you may remember a over it. And he didn't. Because much ofjourneys that lasted into her teens popular country-and-westernsong of later in his life, he confessed: when she married Lieutenant Rich the 1970s titled "How Time Slips ard Russell at Fort Union. Mter "Scarcely a day passes without my Away." The idea there is the same as ward, the couple ran a store at Te experiencing a pang of regret that . that ~:m the sundial. You charter colote on the Trail below Las Vegas. I'm not now roving at large upon members who were on this campus Then they settled in the Stonewall , those western plains." It sounds as if in 1986 and raised your hands a few Valley west of Trinidad, went' to he would have liked to turn back the , minutes ago to identify yourselves ranching, and raised a large family. are probably wondering where the fast-moving clock. Doesn't it sound that way to you? Marian in her late 80s dictated last twenty-one years went and mar- her book to a daughter-in-law Win~i- Starting with Josiah Gregg, peo-
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fred Russell, and in recalling her We guess that from a statement rado's Santa Fe Trail in Trinidad for - youth she says: "My life as I look she made to Winnifred upon return the biennial Santa Fe Trail Associa back seems to have been lived• best in ing home, words that were included tion Symposium, "Where the Moun those days on the trail." in her published memoirs. Reflecting tain Branch Crosses the Purgatoire." Josiah Gregg himself couldn't back on her brief visit to the Santa Bent's Fort Chapter presented the have said it better. And ofher family, Fe plaza, she declared: "Old memo return of the inaugural 1986 sympo Marian adds later: "The blue sky ries·· drifted about me like dead sium to Trinidad, celebrating the . above us. was bread and meat for our leaves in an autumn wind." first two decades of the SFTA.
/ souls. The trail had become our point. Our beloved Marian Sloan Russell The symposium was lucrative for • of outlook upon the universe." never. got to see her· life story in all. The SFTA reported that this Hyperbole?, Or a reflection of true print. I've always thought that the symposium brought in more money and deeply felt sentiment? Take your manner of. her death was filled with. than any other in the history of their choice, but only decide after you have supreme Irony. symposiums. Bent's Fort Chapter I~ I read Marian's entire book. On December 24, 1936, she was and Trinidad businesses received a ,!"'. . Now here's an interesting thing. struck by an automobile in down very welcome boost to their economy .I In early summer of 1932, Winnifred town Trinidad, right on or very close as well. Shop keepers, museums, art " Russell drove Marian over the Trail to the Santa Fe Trail that had been galleries, restaurants, and motels re
from Trinidad. to Santa. Fe so' her such a defining influencein herlife. ported their businesses boomed dur mother-in-law could revisit places Having survived hazards innumer ing the event and many would like to she had known in her youth. able on the old Trail, she fell victim see' similar events held regularly. They stopped at the ruins of Fort at last to the motor car that more Symposium goers were enticed to Union, not yet a National Monument \ than anything else defined the NEW come back to the beginning where as it is today, and then went on to Te AGE. Marian died in the hospital on the first symposium was held in the colote to see the old Russell store, Christmas Day 1936 at age 90. style and grace the old Trail de now a collapsed ruin. When we follow the Trail today or serves. Partners for the event worked in perfect harmony to pro In time the two ladies reached when we read accounts of the origi Trail's end arid the wide-eyed Mar nal travelers, the Santa Fe Trail is vide an outstanding venue and wide ian exclaimed: "Santa Fe has grown resurrected in our mind's eye and variety of activities which would sat larger!" Much indeed had changed, thereby it lives again. That can hap isfy the appetite for this elite gather especially on the plaza. . pen even at this Symposium as you ing of heritage travelers from many states. The Trail is revered by· all Marian Russell, however, could listen and learn, as you compare notes with other$ who have been who work to protect and promote its remember when as a child she had resources. walked hand-in-hand there with Kit over the Trail, or it can happen on Carson. And in a corner of the plaza, tours to historic Trail sites that are Trinidad State Junior College pro she pointed and said to Winnifred: "I part of this program. vided the facilities of their beautiful once saw Capt. Aubry sit in that very In doing these things, you can re historic campus as the hub of all of spot reading a large newspaper." live some of the thrills of the old the symposium activities. Exhibits, Santa Fe Trail and help insure that lunches, and registration were con F. X. Aubry was the Santa Fe ducted at the general purpose room Trail's famous long-distance horse its memory never dies. On this campus and from this and student cafeteria. Lectures and' back rider, setting incredible records presentations were held in the Mas riding between Santa Fe and Inde same podium more than two decades ago, I closed my first keynote ad sari Theatre. Their parking facilities pendence. He also happened to have were where visitors loaded up and been the man in charge of the wagon dress to you with those now familiar words that continue to echo from the unloaded for the daily bus tours. An train that brought Marian, her enormous thank you goes out to this mother, and brother to Santa Fe on fleeting past. And so it seems fitting that· I close, uttering those same institution for providing this facility their first trip. to us for no charge, just as they did The local press in 1932 ran a no words once more: THE SANTA FE TRAIL LIVES ON! for the first symposium in 1986. The tice on Marian's revisitation ofSanta" event would have not have been pos Fe'after so long a time. It said that 2007 SYMPOSIUM REPORT sible .without TSJC contributions, she had first seen the city in 1852 by Wyvonne Graham and our success is rooted to their and suggested that she was thus one [Wyvonne Graham, Trinidad, CO, is ' generous support. of the last living Trail travelers from Trinidad Chamber of Commerce the 1850s: director ofthe Mountain Route Santa Fe Trail Scenic and Historic Byway. had a beautiful commemorative Marian never saw' the sundial She is a member ofBent'sPort Chap throw created for the event and still with its inscription in the center of ter and served on the symposium has some available for sale. Call 719 the plaza, since it was gone by the planning committee. Thank you 846-9285 to order one of these lovely time she came on the scene as a ,Wyvonne for a thorough report on an throws for an outstanding gift or a child. But· the emotions that over outstanding symposium.} treasured memory. You can also pur came her there on the Santa Fe plaza chase a symposium T-shirt or sweat in 1932 ·were ~ertainly in line with ON September 27-30,2007, near to shirt from A. R. Mitchell Art Mu the Latin words: Vita fugit sicut um 300 avid Trail enthusiasts, locals, seum, 719-846-4224. bra. Life fleeth like,a shadow. and volunteers gathered on Colb- The incredible booklet which sym- , February 2008 Wagon Tracks 15
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posium participants received was ing sites which few have the privi markers, rocky bluffs, nearby moun written by Richard Louden, and lege to see. We are grateful for this tains, native plants, and wildlife. sketches were added by J.R. Gilstrap rare opportunity the Army provided Visitors journeyed through time and and Willard Louden. Willard also symposmm goers. revisited Kearny's Encampment un created the striking logo which was Thursday night the Trinidad His der the umbrella of old cottonwoods used to brand symposium materials. tory Museum (a Colorado Historical near the end of the Riverwalk. The Santa.Fe Trail Scenic and His Society property) gave a welcome re Some visitors took advantage of toric Byway (one of America's By ception for our visitors. The recep the self-guided walking tours of El ways and a Colorado State Scenic tion offered visitors hors d'oevres Corazon de Trinidad National His Byway) created the posters, ads, and with a taste ofSouthwestern fair and toric District. The old West comes layouts for symposium booklets. a sampling of Santa Fe Trail local alive through the interpretive signs Exhibits at Trinidad State Junior culture. CaZares deZ Tiempo, a chil placed amid opulent 100-year-old College were represented by SFTA's dren's group, performed traditional buildings and 6.5 miles of winding Last Chance Bookstore, Bent's Fort Mexican folk dancing in the Baca brick streets. Many visitors took the
Chapter, End of the Trail Chapter, courtyard. Kit Carson's buckskin free Trinidad Trolley Rides which 1 . and WetlDry Routes Chapter, Na coat is on display at this unique mu left the Colorado Welcome Center .., tional Parks Service from Santa Fe seum. The complex provides a Santa hourly. and Bent's Old Fort, NPS Long Dis Fe Trail and Scenic Byway visitors Old Fire House No.1 Children's tance Trails Division, America's By center, museum bookstore and gift Museum featured Trinidad's old jail ways, Santa Fe Trail Scenic and His shop, Santa Fe Trail Museum, Baca and school house and the Louden toric Byway-Mountain Branch, the House, Bloom Mansion, carriage Henritze Archaeology Museum at Santa Fe Trail Chapter of the house, and lovely Victorian gardens. TSJC highlighted the prehistoric Daughters of the American Revolu These landmark homes, local treas travelers and American Indians of tion, Trinidad Chamber of Com ures, and lovely gardens make the the Santa Fe Trail. Did you know merce, Trinidad Las Animas County museum a great place to spend the that North America's largest Dino Economic Development, Raton day. saur track site is located just east of Chamber of Commerce, Daisy of a Friday all day, the Trinidad His Trinidad at Picket Wire Canyon Hat, Colorado Preservation Inc., Pi tory Museum presented "Harvesting lands on Comanche National Grass non Canyon Opposition Coalition, History: A Santa Fe Trail Kids land which is managed by the US U.S. Postal Service, and various Camp." More then 300 children from Forest Service? Guided four-wheel authors and artists of the Santa Fe area elementary schools harvested drive tours are available in the Trail, including Mary Peace Finley, vegetables from the Baca Kitchen spring and fall each year. Tours fill Mark Simmons, Sister P. J. Manion, Garden and sampled hardtack, beef up so reservations are advised: 719 Alice Anne Thompson, and Santa Fe jerky, and hands-on adobe brick ma 384-2181. Trail photographer Ronald Dulle. king. Living-history reenactor Jeff Each Friday and Saturday morn These exhibits and booths were the Trotman presented activities and ing symposium goers learned about perfect complement to other educa shared his knowledge about tradi the people and history of Santa Fe tional activities. Hand-made Victo tional clothing and gear used by Trail's Mountain Route from a wide rian hats added fun and flare to ex Trail traders. Children enjoyed Trail variety of presentations. Roberta hibits and social gatherings. Books music and danced to the Virginia Cordova began with the welcome and blankets, brochures and bones Reel to top off the day. and introductions to Trinidad. Marc were displayed, including an out During the course of the event, Simmons, keynote speaker, pre standing array ofauthentic Santa Fe symposium goers were provided a sented a talk about "The Santa Fe Trail artifacts and art. wide array of cultural traditions and Trail Past and Present." Lolly Ming Thursday activities marked the historically-themed visitor experi presented a talk entitled "Granada beginning of the bus tours-a very ences. The Gallery Crawl of muse and the Fort Union Military Freight popular tour was conducted by the ums, shops, and galleries all fea Route." Paul Andrews shared his US Army Pinon Canyon Maneuver tured themes which reflect the Santa story· of the Felipe Baca family. Containment Area. PCMCA has Fe Trail and its culture. Harry Myers presented the foibles been the focus ofattention in the me Participants sampled wine, hors encountered by various personalities dia for the last year as a targeted d'oevres, and the Santa Fe Trail's on the Mountain Route. Susan Boyle area for expansion ofthe Fort Carson growing artistic community in Trini talked about the "Mexican Culture, training program. Despite this con dad. Special shows included the Co Packing and the Santa Fe Trail, troversy, the US Army provided razon Gallery, First Street Gallery, 1825-1845." Brenda Kaye Todd tours of·America's treasured past AR Mitchell Museum, Terra Cotta shared her Master's research about and protected sites on the Santa Fe Sun, Eagle Totem, John Finch Gal the stories offour men who were bur Trail. lery, Original Townsite Fine Art Gal ied near the Santa Fe Trail at Fort The tour guides were well quali lery, Purgatoire River Trading Co., Union, 1863-1872. fied and did an outstanding job on and Lori-Lyn's. . Diana Dunn presented a story these tours. Visitors explored traces Doug Holdread conducted a tour about "Yankee Pioneer Families" of Santa Fe Trail ruins, stagecoach of the recently-completed Purgatoire who settled in Trinidad, and she fol stops, historic ranches, and saw Riverwalk which showcased historic lowed up with a guided tour to three American Indian rock art and dwell- historic homes and two commercial
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buildings affiliated with the Hatch, Wild West!" We thank all who helped contriblill" I I.. the success of this McCormick, Boice, Mitchell, Mc gather everything and everyone up event m"i j.; ,'.I' atlyappreciated. Clure, and West families. The last during the excitement. A special SymposHllll 2007 steering com stop on t{1e tour was the Masonic heartfelt thanks goes to each of you mittee planners and volunteers Cemetery where Yankee pioneers. for taking care of each other during listed alphabetically were Melissa . are buried. Wrapping up the Trail these unpredicted catastrophes. We Allen, Allen Bachoroski, Roy Boyd' Talks, Mark Gardner shared his all showed the kind offellowship and (deceased), Branson Community knowledge about. "Buffalo Hide pioneer spirit from. which the Santa Church, John Carson, Larry Carnes, Trade on the Santa Fe Trail." Fe Trail was built. . Richard Carrillo, Colorado Welcome . . The Military Freight Route tours Saturday's dinner at Aultman Center Ambassadors, Roberta Cor highlighted Gray's Ranch, Bent's Hall's Lucky 'Monkey was followed dova, Dub Couch, Tom Davis, Mary Ranch, the Goodnight-Loving Cattle by the awards and a tearful thanks Ann and Roger Davis, Brad Doherty, Trail, Stockville, Emery Gap, Beck from the planning committee. (A rec Nancy Ellis, Faye Gaines, Wyvonne " nell's Route, Long's Route, the Max ognition of awards presented was re Graham, Jan and Weldon Graham, well PartyMassacre, the toll gates of ported in the .last Wagon Tracks.) Mary Ellen Hadad, DO\lg Holdread, Following the award presentations, LaDonna and Charlie Hutton, Rich <, Metcalf, Gleason and Wootton, Ojo, , Madison, Folsom site, Manco Burro Harry Myers provided a lighthearted ard, Willard and Mary Ann Louden,
: Pass, and Willow Springs. Visitors Trail presentation. The evening was Paula Manini, Juliette Mondot, had a social rest and relaxation mo , capped off by drawings and givea Cathy Mullins, Kim Pacheco, Pat' ment at the scenic and history ways from area' merchants and by Pahner, Pat Patrick, Joe Reorda III, soaked Louden Ranch and visited period music performed by Mark Nancy Robertson, Santa Fe Trail the local Branson Gallery where the Gardner and Rex Rideout. Scenic and Historic Byways of Colo brothers show their work. The final tour, on. Sunday, pro rado and New Mexico, Stonewall The Mountain Branch bus tours vided visitors an opportunity to ex Community Church, John Tarabino,' included stops at wagon ruts, stage plore the Stonewall,area and its his Trinidad Historical Society, and coach stops, watering holes, and a tory. The tour start'ed with a tradi Teresa Vila. We also thank the press variety of historic sites. The Timpa's tional Cowboy Dutch Oven Break for the public service announce stage stop highlighted a living fast at the Colt Ranch. Noreen Riffe ments and press releases you pub history presentation by staff Of NPS presented a heartfelt talk on her lished for us and helping us get the Bent's Old Fort and featured an ox great-grandmother Marion Sloan word out. drawn merchant wagon. Additional Russell. Mterward, participants Additional thanks for the program' tour sites were Cottonwood Camping caravanned to the Stonewall Ceme fun9.ing provided in part by the Na spot,' Kit Carson Park, Hoehne tery for a nondenominational grave tional Park Service .through the wagon ruts, Hole in the Prairie, and side service at Marion (Sloan) and Challenge Cost Share Grant Pro Iron Spring. The final highlight of Richard Russell's grave. The tour gram. WE' f II; II. k all ofthe above indi • • the tour was provided by Albuquer was· capped off with a caravan, viduals rill tI t I" I' families, nonprofit que New Mexico'Archaeological Con through the Russell's region and entities, :",,1 "'Ii,- governments. We servancy and included a tour of Hole ended with heartfelt goodbyes and appreciate ~.ll of your hard work, in the Rock and the surrounding his wishes for a safereturn home for our support, and sacrifices to make the toric homesteads. We thank them visitors. return of this historic event to Trini and their managing site director and Additional sponsors of Sympo dad a memorable one for all. Con tour guide, Cathy Mullins, for this sium 2007 not already mentioned in. gratulations on the perfect orches outstanding hospitality. the above story include Colorado tration ofthe return of the inaugural Friday's entertainment included a Tourism Office, City. of Trinidad SFTA Symposium. The spirit of the performance by local musician, Sam Tourism Board, International State Santa Fe Trail shines brightly on all Bachicha, during the Cowboy Dinner Bank, Pioneer Natural Resources, of the above partners. We commend at Kit Carson Park. We apologize for First National Bank, South Central you for helping provide a perfect re the lack of food and the flood which Council of Governments, Daughters turn to Trinidad for Symposium followed shortly after Kit Carson's g of the American Revolution-Santa 2007! Hats off to Trinidad and its g-grandson, John Carson, took the Fe Trail Chapter, Black Jack's Sa citizens for providing this ideal stage for his reenactment. loon and Steak House, Trinidad/Las venue for Santa Fe Trail enthusi The old Trail's unpredictable fall . Animas Economic Development, asts. We thank all who attended the weather showed up with a fantastic Trinidad Chamber of Commerce, symposium and invite them to re- lig4tening and. thunder display Buffalo Ranch, Palmer Oil Com . turn to "Where the Mountain Branch which cut everyone's fun short. As if pany, Roscover. Realty, Graham Crosses the Purgatoire" any old this wasn't enough action-a shoot Graphics, Hadad's Home Furnish time. . out at a local hotel had some sympo ings, KSF Strategic Services, Trini SFT BYWAY VISITOR SURVEY sium damsels in distress well into dad Historical' Society, Colorado the wee hours. They overslept and Welcome Center Ambassadors, by Wyvonne Graham missed their Saturday tours. We are Highway of Legends, Cedar Street THE Santa Fe Trail was designated sorry for all ofthe uncivilized goings Printing, and Tumbleweed Saddle a National Historic Trail in 1987. In on which may have affected the faint Signs.,& Embroidery. Their financial 1992 it became a Colorado State Sce- of heart-but that's life in the "Wild and moral support and volunteers
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nic Byway and in 1998 a National pas and it was needed. However an able as the entire town of Trinidad is Scenic Historic Byway, one of Amer approaching informational sign undergoing an interstate bridge out ica's Byways. The Santa Fe Trail is would be helpful for travelers to in age which redirected traffic to new one of 126 Byways in 44 states which form them that it is there. There are detours through the back roads of are a collection of distinct and di currently no locations on the Byway Trinidad. Even locals were unaware verse roads based on their archaeo between Trinidad and Timpas for of new closures and were at a loss logical, cultural, historic, natural, restrooms. This long stretch of high when trying to redirect visitors to recreational, and scenic qualities. way has no gas or stores either. symposium event locations. America's Byways are gateways to Stakeholders could look at utiliz Byway stakeholders are working adventures where no two experi ing Apishapa Wildlife or several with CDOT to improve interstate ences are the same. other locations on the Byway in this access and directional and The survey was conducted during stretch for adding another waterless informational signs. With careful the 2007 Symposium as part of a col toilet for travelers. Trash receptacles stakeholder planning over the next laborative effort between Santa Fe need to be added to our interpreta few years, we will be adding way Trail Scenic andHistoric Byway and tional pull offs at mile marker 15 and finding signs tailored· to meet our Santa Fe Trail Association, funded Iron Spring. expanding heritage tourism needs. in part by South Central Council of The level of general knowledge of Surveys like this will continue to Governments and Colorado Tourism the Santa Fe Trail from respondents assist in determining where we need Office. The survey was given to 100 was excellent as would be expected improvements, help target areas for of the nearly 300 participants. with this particular group ofvisitors. expansion and preservation, and We are grateful to survey partici Not all visitors used the internet. help to guide visitors safely along the pants for their reviews and feedback The majority of people who do use Santa Fe Trail. about their visits to the Trail in Colo the internet for trip planning used Thanks to all who participated in rado. The information provided by the Santa Fe Trail Association web the visitor satisfaction survey for this survey is invaluable and will be site. Survey participant comments· your valued input. For more infor utilized by Santa Fe Trail stakehold indicated that the information was mation about the survey, contact ers to support future endeavors. not adequate. One third ofthose sur Wyvonne Graham, Santa Fe Trail The most important feature of the veyed used the Byway web site and a Scenic and Historic Byway Moun Santa Fe Trail visitor experience is smaller portion used the local Trini tain Branch Director,
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PATROLLING THE SANTA FE TRAI.L: REMINISCENCES OF JOHN S. KIRWAN , . [These reminiscences of John S. Kir- . him and be at home again. I re~ peared to be the brightest and most wan were edited with an introduc- mained there until I was nineteen athletic of the lot of young officers \ tion by Merrill. J. Mattes and pub years old, when I ran away to Boston there and were foremost in picking lished in the Kansas Historical and enlisted in the Mounted Service, up handkerchiefs from the ground, Quarterly, XXI (Winter 1955): 569 U. S. Army. .their horses on the run, vaulting on . ~ 587, and reprinted here with permis Lt. Ramson [Hyatt C. Ransom] of and over their horses on a walk,,trot sion of the Kansas Historical Society the Mounted Rifles was recruiting or gallop, and cutting heads placed editor. Special thanks are extended to Officer and informed me, that he on posts on the drill grounds. We the late Merrill Mattes, who assisted could not accept me, unless I had my were drilled constantly when the with the founding of SFTA, and to mother's consent. The recruiting weather permitted during the fall the Kansas Historical Society.] Sergeant noticed my disappointed and winter of 1858 and '59. At this Introduction looks and followed me out to the side time the Army was composed of 5 John S. Kirwan, a native of New walk. He told me to come back the Mounted Regiments. (1st & 2nd Dra Hampshire and son of Irish immi next day late in the afternoon as by goons, the Mounted Rifles and 1st and 2nd Cavalry) 4 Regiments ofAr grants, was born in 1840. He joined that time in the day Ransom would tillery, and 10 Regiments of Infan the U.S. Army in 1858 and served be so intoxicated, that he would not try.-Cavalry and Infantry, [com with the First Cavalry along the know how old I was and that he (the prised] 10 Companies to a Regiment. Santa Fe Trail, 1859-1861. He later Sergeant) would put my age down as [There were] 12 Companies in a served as lieutenant colonel in the twenty two. I did not like the idea of Regiment of Artillery (2 Light Bat Twelfth Tennessee Cavalry during the deception, but solaced my con the Civil War and again saw service science thinking the Sergeant was teries and 10 Companies of heavy on the plains in 1865 when he estab doing the deceiving. Artillery). The heavy Artillery were drilled in infantry tactics. [I] do not lished Camp Kirwan· on the North In about ten days we had about remember the name ofthe Colonel of Solomon River in present Phillips twenty recruits and started for Car County, Kansas. That camp was oc lisle Barracks, Pennsylvania. At the 1st Dragoons; Col. Philip St. cupied for only a few weeks. The _,New York and Philadelphia we re George Cook[e], commanded the 2nd town of Kirwin (misspelling of his ceived quite a number ofrecruits and Dragoons; Col. [William W.] Loring, name) was established near the site numbered over a hundred on leaving Mounted Rifles; Lt. Col. Crittenden, of the former military camp in 1871. Philadelphia, We arrived at Carlisle 1st Cavalry (now 4th); and Col. E. V. Sumner and Lt. Col. Jos. E. John Kirwan apparently kept a diary Barracks at about 4 P. M. as hungry a set of boys as you ever saw. As we ston, Wm. H. Emory, Senior Major du~ing his years of military service, and John Sedgwick, Junior Major whlch he used to prepare the follow arrived between meals there was nothing to be had but some hard tack [also with 1st cavalry]. The 2nd Cav ing memoirs for his family. Mattes alry (now the 5th) had Albert Sidney obtained a copy of the reminiscences and cabbage soup and this did not agree with me. Some ofthe boys were Johnston, Colonel; Robert E. Lee, Lt. from Kirwan's granddaughter. John Colonel;·Earl Van Dorn, Senior [Jun Kirwan died on his farm in Missouri very much disappointed until the next day when they found out that ior?] Major and Geo. H. Thomas in 1908. So far as can be determined, Junior [Senior?] Major. .. ' these reminiscences were published the regular fare was all right. Mter only once, in 1955. we rested a day we were assigned to About the 1st of May 1859 about different squads and started to drill. 50 recruits were assigned [to] 4 Com Reminiscences of John S. Kirwan Carlisle Barracks at that time panies of the 1st Cavalry, stationed When I was a youngster, on the was the General Rendezvous for re at Ft. Riley, Kansas Territory; Lt. farm where I was raised on Lemp cruits of the Mounted Service. Ap Ransom of H Company of that Regi ster Mountain, Sullivan County, proximately 500 men were there, di ment was in command of the squad, New Hampshire, I read a novel writ vided into Companies of about 80 and we travelled by rail to St. Louis ten by Charles Lever, called "Char and from there by steamboat "War les O'Malley, or the Irish Dragoon." ¥len each and lettered alphabeti cally. The post was commanded by Eagle" to Fort Leavenworth, Kansas. This fixed my ambition to become a Lt. Col. [George B.] Crittenden of the We had to foot it from Leavenworth· soldier, when I was old enough to be Mounted Rifles (who afterwards to Fort Riley, 125 miles and arrived one. went with the South). Among the Of there very footsore and tired on the My father died when I was eleven ficers I remember were Capt. J. B. last day of May. There we were di years old; my mother sold the little Gordon' [?], of the 1st Dragoons, 1st vided among the four Companies F, . farm and the family moved to Man Lt. and Brevet Capt. McRea [Alexan G, Hand K. I was assigned to K. chester, N. H. I worked in the mills der McRae?] of the Mounted Rifles, They were all ready to go on the there for a short time, until a friend 2nd Lt. Joe Wheeler, Mounted Rifles, plains and only had awaited our arri managed to place me in a Wholesale 2nd Lt. Fitzhugh Lee of the Dra-. val to start, which we did the follow & Retail Dry Goods House in Boston, goons, and 2nd Lts. [Andrew] Jack ing morning, June 1st, 1859. Mass. where I stayed for about a son [Jr. ?] and [Lunsford L.] Lomax The different Companies of the year. A member of the firm opened a of the 1st Cavalry, and several oth Regiment were located as follows: F, store in Manchester, N. H. and I was ers that I cannot remember just now. G, Hand K at Fort Riley, Kansas, E more than glad to return there with Lee, Wheeler, and Lomax ap- and D at Fort Smith, Arkansas, C
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and I at Fort Arbuckle, Indian Terri dian attacks, as there were five of speed. The Indian evidently tory and A and B at Fort Cobb, In tribes of them roaming through that thought Bayard was not a good shot; dian Territory. The Officers of 1st country, viz: The Kiowas, Coman he leaned forward on his pony and Cavalry were Col. E. V. Sumner, ches, Cheyennes, Arapahoes and slapped his back with his hand in de commanding the Department of the Apaches. All were supposed to be at rision. Just as he straightened up West, Headquarters at St. Louis, Peace or said to be, and we had very again, Bayard put a bullet in his Mo., Lt. Col. Joseph E. Johnston, de little to do during the summer, mov back between the shoulders and he tailed as Quartermaster General of ing camp short distances as the grass dropped off his pony, dead. the Army, Washington, D. C.; Sr. was fed short, and for sanitary rea We immediately started back to Major Wm. Emory, Bvt. Lt. Col., Jr. sons. the ranch, about 5 miles distant. We Major John Sedgwick. The line Offi We remained there until the lat knew that an Indian war was now cers were: ter part of September when we certain, as an Indian had been killed Co. A Wm. Beal [1] Captain ofVa. started back to Fort Riley. Every and from all appearances a chief of "B [Delos B.] Sacket" North thing appeared lovely and we all an considerable prominence. Capt. "C Thos Wood "North ticipated a nice comfortable time the Desasuer [De Saussure], who was in following winter at the Fort. We command, called a Council ofhis offi "D [James M.] McIntosh" Miss. reached the Little Arkansas River on cers and it was decided to immedi " "E [Samuel D.] Sturgis" North the evening of September 30th. ately hunt for the Indians. A guard "F [W. D.] Desasuer [De Saussure] About 2 A M. the 1st Sergeant laid was detailed for the wagons and we " S. C. his hand on my shoulder and whis took 3 days rations in haversacks. "G [William S.] Walker" Fla. pered in my ear: "Get up quick and We started over the Bluffs and after "H [Edward W. B.] Newby" North make no noise, the Indians have bro scouting for four days we were un ken loose and killed Peacock and able to overtake them and found that "I Eugene Carr. " North burned his ranch"; this ranch was we were then only about 15 miles "K Geo. H. Stuart [Steuart] about 30 miles back on the road we from Peacock's ranch, as the trails "Maryland had just travelled, at the point where crossed and recrossed in every direc The First Lieutenants that I can the Santa Fe Trail crossed Walnut tion. Mter returning to the ranch we remember were [George?] Bell of K; Creek a short distance from the Ar found that Major [James] Long D.[avid] Stanley of C; J. E. B. Stuart kansas River. Two of the Companies street, Paymaster of New Mexico of G; Ransom of H; Elmer Otis of F; G and K, were started at once; the had camped there for the night with [Philip] Stockton of B; [Oliver H.] other two F and H were to start at his escort, and I saw him the next Fish of 1. As the Regiment was never daylight. We made the 30 miles in morning. He was then a man of mid to-gether before the war it is hard to two hours, and found the ranch par dle age, large and fine looking, and remember all the names but I re tially burned up and the contents he left us the following day. [The member the following Second Lieu scattered everywhere. Mter killing next time Mr. Kirwan saw Major tenants: Joe Taylor of K; [George D.] Peacock, they scalped him, and three Longstreet was at the Banquet ofthe Bayard of G; [John A] Thompson of or four men employed by him ran Military Order of the Loyal Legion, F; Eli Long of H; [Edward] Ingraham away. It was one ofthem that rode to at the Planters Hotel, 1892.] of I; Lomax of D; Ives [Alfred Iver where we were and informed us of It was decided that the command son?] of C; Jackson was at Ft. Ar the murder. should return to Fort Riley as in buckle in A or B Company. Some of We found one Indian only and he structed. Just as we were ready to these names became very well was so beastly drunk he could not get start, the monthly mail for Santa Fe known during the war.. away and his pony was standing and Albuquerque came up; they had Leaving Fort Riley we crossed the near him, apparently as sound a covered wagon drawn by four Kaw River near the Fort and asleep as its master. Just as day was mules which made the distance from marched in a Southwesterly direc breaking that Indian seemed to raise Independence, Mo. to Santa Fe, ap tion until we reached the Santa Fe from the ground as if by magic, proximately 800 miles in an average trail at Lost Springs; and followed jumped on his pony and started time of 16 days. There were three this to the Big Bend of the Arkansas away for the Bluffs. No one waited men with the wagon, Larry Smith, River. As you will remember '59 was for a command but jumped on his the conductor and his brother Mike, the year of the discovery of gold at horse and took after him. We the driver and an extra hand by the Pike's Peak. There were two routes thought that he had gotten away name of [Bill] Cole. They wanted to that the Peakers followed, the from us when suddenly Lt. Bayard go through without an escort, but Northern one from Omaha along the came through the crowd like a whirl Capt. Desasuer would not allow Platt River and the other from Inde wind on a racer, that his uncle Sena them as he did not consider it safe pendence, Mo., along the Santa Fe tor Bayard had sent him before leav and decided to send an escort with Trail to the Arkansas River and ing Fort Riley. Bayard gradually them part of the way or until Smith along the north side of that river to lessened the distance between him thought he was out of danger. A de the Raton Crossing, thence north by and the Indian until he got within tail was made up of seven men from way of Pueblo to the new town of range of him, when he fired two each Company, one commissioned of Denver. We were ordered to the Ar shots over his head to stop him. This ficer, Lt. Otis, and two non-com kansas Valley to protect the emi however seemed to put fresh energy missioned Officers, Sgt. Cavendish grants going that way, from any In- in the pony, who made a fresh burst and Corporal Richmond, a total of
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thirty. I was one of the detail of my good gait. One Indian tried several tramp he got near enough to it, to Comp'any and ·the next morning as times to run in front of them but hear dogs barking. He nearly fainted the command started East towards failed in the attempt and Cole de again, as.he knew, that there were Fort Riley, we went West with the cided to shoot him the next time he no dogs in the soldiers camp and that mail.We passed Pawnee Rock (about tried. The mules kept up the pace un it must be an Indian camp. He imme 15 miles) at 10.30 A. M. and reached til they passed the bottom of the dry diately turned back to get as far a creek called·Pawnee Ford [Fork] at creek, when they came to a walk and away from that campfire as possible, 2 P. M. where wemade camp for the·, as they got on top of the bank, the and trudged along reaching the night. Smith was very impatient at same Indian rushed forward again, Santa Fe trail a little before day the slow travelling and said he didn't but just as he got in front of the light, where he was lucky enough to believe there was an Indian in the mules Cole fired his Sharp's carbine, meet a party of returning Pike's country. Otis tried to reason with killing him. He rolled off his pony in Peakers, consisting of 15 wagons, 21 him but to no avail and at 4 P. M. the front of the mules, which caused men, 16 women and 10 children, to '. mail pulled out. That was the last them to turn from the road and make whom he told what had happened. time we saw Larry and Mike Smith a curve towards a large cottonwood They dressed his wounds as well as , alive. tree standing near the creek. By this possible and as he knew we were to 1.( • The next morning, just as we were time it was getting dark and as the start back in the morning, he in ready to start back, a man bare team turnJ3d, Cole jumped out of the sisted that they let him have a mule headed and coyered with blood rode wagon and laid flat on the ground. and rode as fast as he could to reach• into. camp. We at once gathered No one had seen him jump and when us. around him and found that it was the Indians got up on the bank of the Lt. Otis decided to proceed to Cole, the extra hand, who was with creek, they did not follow the curved Jones' Creek, bury the Smith boys the mail wagon the day before. He tracks made by the wagon wheels, and escort the Pike's Peakers back to was weak from the loss of blood and but went straight fromthe creek bed the settlements. He picked two men suffering intense pain from wounds. to the cottonwood tree, where the with best and fastest horsesto take a His shoulder and arm were broken mules stopped. They undoubtedly dispatch to Capt. Desasuer to report and the top of his head was nearly expected to find the bodies of· the what had happened. These two men scalped. He told us, that as they Smiths and Cole in the wagon and rode 90 miles that day and overtook crossed a dry run called Jones Dry their disappointment at not finding' the command at Cow Creek, ·where it " Fork about six miles from where we the latter was plainly told by their went into camp to wait for us. We were, the Indians came out ofthe dry howls. Two of them started back on went on to Jones Creek and met the creek bed and surrounded them, cry the trail of the wagon wheels, while Peakers, who had made camp near a ing: "wano Americano." The wagon the others scalped poor Smith and waterhole in that creek. We bor was stopped and conductor Smith or plundered the wagon. The two on the rowed some picks and shovels from dered Cole to get out and give them trail of the wagon wheels kept to them and they helped us dig a wide whatever they wanted; he gave them gether until about two hundred feet deep grave and buried the Smiths. a large box of sugar crackers, coffee, from where Cole was, when one cir We then made another start for the bacon, hams and some flour. Mter ' cled to the right and the other to the command. The Peakers all had small they had eaten what they wanted, left, leaving him in the middle be rifles and plenty of ammunition; the the chief or the one acting as such, tween them. They met on the road women also had small rifles and motioned for Cole to get up behind and followed it down into the creek were not afraid to use them, making him on the pony. When Cole refused bed. Cole from his prone position in all over 60 carbines and rifles, be to do so, two ofthem jumped offtheir could see them, while they on their sides ·each cavalry man had a heavy ponies, grabbed him and tried to ponies could not see an object on the revolver and a saber, so we felt per force him to get on the pony. He ground and naturally supposed that fectly safe. jerked loose and ran around to the he had hid somewhere along the When we got to Ash Creek about 5 other side of the wagon and climbed bank of the creek. . miles East of Pawnee Fork, we saw in. In the mean time the Smiths had As soon as they [the Indians] dis~ an Indian talking to a greaser, who been turning the wagon around and appeared down the creek bank, Cole was jerking Buffalo meat, but as got ready to start back towards our commenced dragging himself along soon as the Indian spied us he gal camp, but just then they opened fire, on the ground, by catching the Buf loped off. One of our men could talk killing both brothers at the first vol falo grass with his good hand. He • Mexican and the greaser told him ley. Larry was shot. and killed with kept this up until he fainted from the Indians were massed on the arrows, one going right through his pain and loss of blood. How long he ridge, or bluff running from Ash heart, Mike was shot through the laid there he does not know, butthe. Creek. to Pawnee Rock, about ten head. pain ofhis wounds and the cold night miles distant, where the road ran When Cole got into the wagon, he air caused him considerable suffer parallel to and about a quarter mile picked up the lines from the dead ing. He crawled up on his feet and from the bluff. We placed the wagons man's hands and started the team: looked arOl.].nd but could not tell in the center and moved on; the Just then he was shot and although where he was. He had seen a camp women or larger children drove, suffering terribly, he held the lines fire a long ways off and thinking it while the men walked on the side of with his right hand. The firing was our campfire started in that di the next bluffs and the c~valry front frightened the horses and they ran a rection until after.a long wearisome and rear of them. The women were
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brave and even the children were of them asked to be allowed to take therefor cranky. But issues raised by plucky; poor Cole, whom we had off his knapsack and draw a bucket the War gave his brain sufficient ma placed in a wagon insisted that he of water from the well at one end of terial to work on and made him a would fight too, so we propped him the Post, and as the day was cold, I great General. I at least had no cause up on a bed, with his Sharp's carbine did not want to call any of the men for complaint, as I considered I got which was found at the place where out, so allowed him to do as he re off easy. [General Nathaniel Lyon he jumped out of the mailwagon. quested. was the first Union general killed in This was the same kind of carbine, They had their drink and just as . the Civil War, at Wilson's Creek, we were uSIng. he was putting on the knapsack, the Missouri, August 10, 1861.] Pretty soon we came in sight of officer of the Day, Capt. Nathaniel Lyon commanded B Company and the Indians scattered along the bluff Lyon, came in sight, so I called out: Capt. and brevet Major [Henry W.] as far as we could see, moving up and "Turn out the Guard, Officer of the Wessel[l]s, commanded G Company, down the sides of the slope. They did day." He answered, angrily and 2nd Infantry. Lyon and his Company everything possible to draw us on, sharply: "Never mind the Guard," so were sent to St. Louis Arsenal in and away from the wagons, but Otis I called out: "Never mind the Guard" April of 1860 and Wessels to the new gave positive orders, that we were and came to a proper salute. He paid Fort Larned. Colonel F. W. Schaurte not to fire a shot unless attacked and no attention to the salute, but was then 1st Sergeant of Wessels •", under no circumstances to leave the walked straight up to me and asked: Company G. w.agons. They did not attack us and "How long have you been in the serv- Preparations were made for a gen .. ?" we moved along as rapidly as possi Ice, sIr. eral crusade against the Indians as ble, until we arrived at a crescent You learn fast in the Army, and soon as the grass started, as our shaped pond about 5 miles East of quick as a flash it occurred to me, horses as well as the Indians' had to P~wnee Rock, where we made Camp that a batch of recruits had arrived subsist on it. There were two col for the night. The wagons were at the Fort about two weeks before umns put in the field; our 4 Compa placed so as to make a barricade and some of them were assigned to . nies of the 1st Cavalry and two Com from one point of the' crescent K; so I answered: "A little over two panies of the 2nd Dragoons, com shaped pond to the other, making a weeks sir." He asked the Sergeant of manded respectively by Capt. [Wil pretty good defensive position in the Guard, Lon Stokes, who be liam] Steel[e] and Lt. [Francis C.] case we were bothered. longed to K if that was true and he Armstrong. 2nd Lt. Merell [Lewis The next day we reached the Big promptly lied like a gentleman for Merrill] was also with them. Major Bend of the Arkansas River and the me and said it was. He then turned John Sedgwick, 1st Cavalry in com day thereafter found our command to me and said: "It is a good thing for mand. The other column was com at Cow Creek, where K Company you, that you are a recruit, or I would posed of the six Companies of the 1st awaited us, the other Companies punish you properly, sir, for letting Cavalry, stationed at Fort Smith, having gone to Fort Riley. Lt. Otis that prisoner take off his knapsack, Ancheta [Oauchita or Washita] and and the men of the other Companies sir." Cobb, under command of Capt. Stur left us the next morning, taking Cole This was the first time I had seen ges. with them to the Hospital at the Fort the Captain, but I knew of him well We left Fort Riley about the 1st of where he eventually recovered, and by reputation and that was, that he May 1860, marched to Fort Larned the Peakers went on to the settle was the most tyrannical officer in the and there completed our outfitting ments. We remained until the 27th Army. It was reported of him, that with pack mules; we did not take any of November, guarding the mail be one time a batch of recruits came to wagons, except an ammunition tween Cow Creek and Fort Union, his Company and he got them in line wagon and one ambulance. We New Mexico (600 miles), when we and commenced with the man on the crossed the Arkansas River near were relieved by Lt. Bell and a detail right as follows: "How long have you Fort Larned and struck for the North of 40 men, who made their head been in the service, sir?" The man Fork of the Canadian River. We quarters at Pawnee Fork, and would tell him. "Have you ever been scouted through that country for started to build Fort Larned. punished, sir?" The man said "No." some time, stopping now and then We reached Fort Riley on the 29th "Well, I will punish you, sir, I will for a few minutes to allow the men to and the next day I was detailed for punish you properly, sir." The next get off their horses and stretch, as is guard duty. The guardhouse was a one told him he had been punished, the custom. My horse had a sore back two-story building and like all the and Lyon said: "You were not pun and I was riding a pet mule we had. buildings there was built of rock, the ished properly, sir, I will punish you At one place where we stopped to lower story being used as a guard properly, sir," and so on. Everyone stretch, I dropped the reins on the house while the upper part was an had to be punished and no one knew mule's neck, lazily swung my carbine Assembly-room for the reserve how to punish properly excepting over my shoulder, and placed my guards, reached by a wide stairway. Captain Lyon himself. His after ca right foot on the ground. My spur I was placed on Post number One reer showed, that he was fitted for a caught in the coil ofthe lariat rope as and part of my duties were to guard a large command, not a small one, and I drew my foot from the stirrup, and couple of soldiers, who were sen his patriotism showed bright when as I stooped to release it, the carbine tenced to walk in front ofnumber one the opportunity offered. He never slipped off my shoulder and struck and carry a knapsack with 30 had the softening influence of a the mule. This made her jump, which pounds ofbrick in it for 30 days. One home, as he was an old bachelor and drew my foot in the coil of rope and
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threw me on my back. The mule see There was an intense political in the regulars or volunteers. ing me fall, became frightened and feeling, especially among the officers When the traitor, General [David ran, dragging me behind her. The who were nearly all democrats; the E.] 'Twiggs, surrendered the De carbine was fastened to my shoulder enlisted men had little to say, but the partment of Texas, the six Com helt by a swivel and every now and officers talked freely, especially panies of the '1st Cavalry in the then gave me a whack on the head. those from the South, who predicted Indian Territory were included, but Lt. J. E.'B. Stuart hollered out: "Stop that Breckenridge [Breckinridge] the noble, loyal Captain Sturgis, who that mule, or she'll drag that pack to would surely, be elected. As we re was in command, disregarded the pieces." About that time, the ring ceived our mail only once a month ordlilr, gathered his scattered holding the lariat broke and I was re and sometimes six weeks, the result Companies together and marched leased, but I never forgave Stuart for of the election was not received until from Fort Cobb in the Ancheta his joke. about the middle of December 1860, [Oauchita] Mountains, 800 miles to We moved through part of New and it caused considerable conster Leavenworth, taking over 200 six • I\1exico [Oklahoma?], called the Salt nation among the officers. The mule wagons loaded with or Sand desert and recrossed the Ar Southerners talked treason while Commissary and quartermaster
; kansas River at Anberry's [Aubrey's] the northern ones commenced to stores, 25 ambulances and $300.000. ~/.' Crossing, Colorado Territory [Kan hedge. In the early part of 1861, sev [sic]-in gold. Of our officers who sas]. Company G was sent scouting eral of them got leave of absence and remained loyal and gained dis while the remainder stayed on the returned to the States. Among them tinction were General Sedgwick, river bank to rest the horses, as they Major Sedgwick and Capt. Geo. H. General Thomas Wood, General were pretty well fagged out. Com Stuart. David Stanley, General W. H. pany G struck the trail of a band of In the latter part of Maya large Emory, General Eli Long and the Kiowas about 40 miles North of party of traitors came through from General Bayard (Gettysburg, only the Arkansas. Lieutenants J. E. B. New Mexico, ,officers and their fami one killed). Of those who went South t,tuart and Bayard immediately lies from the Mounted Rifles.' They are General J. E. B. Stuart, who was charged them and had a running had twelve ambulances and fifteen killed by Sheridan's troops, General fight until they reached a creek, Government wagons, with an escort Lomax, whom Sheridan licked so called Black Water. The Indians of 50 men from the mounted rifles, badly in Virginia and Generals were hampered with their squaws all supplied with Government provi- Jackson and Ives., and children and were compelled to 'sions. They were royally received by make a stand. Stuart charged again, our officers and as they marched on killing about twenty. The Indians to the parade ground, our band was broke, leaving their squaws, teepees ordered, to play,"Dixie" for them. and a hundred ponies. Lt. Bayard They remained two days to rest up CONVERSE OF THE was hit by an arrow in the cheekbone and then went on to attempt to de PRAIRIES just below the eye. Sergeant Ock stroy the Government and Flag, they -BOOK NOTICES"": leston was shot in the left arm and had sworn to protect, using Govern two privates slightly wounded. Two ment troops, ambulances, wagons Mary Jean Straw Cook. Dona Thles: days later they returned to camp. and provisions in doing so. J. E. B. Santa Fe's Courtesan and Gambler. About the same time Sturges caught Stuart accompanied them for which Albuquerque: University of New up with their main body on the Re the enlisted men were not sorry. Ma Mexico Press, 2007. Pp. xiv + 173. Il publican River above where Concor- , jor Sedgwick went East shortly after lustrations, appendices, notes, bibli dia, Kansas, now stands and gave the election and the command de ography, index. Cloth, $21.95 + ship them battle, killing a large number. volved on Capt. Desasuer of South ping. Available from Last Chance 'rheir chiefs then sued for peace. Carolina, an ardent rebeL Some ofus Store. ' The Government appointed a were afraid, that he would start with Mary Jean Cook has spent many commission to meet the five tribes at the Companies south to Texas and , years searching for the elusive de Bents Fort, 60 miles above Anberry's surrender us. The feeling among the tails, of. this remarkable woman, [Aubrey's] Crossing. At this point the enlisted men was intensely loyal and Maria Gertrudis Barcelo, the "cele Government decided to establish some of each Company gpt together brated gambler and courtesan of the Fort Wise, named in honor of Gover and organized a lodge of "Good 'rem 1820s and 1840s." Known as Dona nor Wise of Virginia. Major Sedg pIal'S," sworn to secr~cy, ostensibly Tules, this famous (or infamous) and wick was assigned as commander for the promotion of temperance, but enterprising woman was a success and our four Companies as a garri- really to capture Desasuer, should ful entrepreneur in Santa Fe and in I son~ We used Bents old [new] Fort as he attempt to take us South. He vested in the Santa Fe trade. a quartermaster department and must have suspected something like She had "extraordinary percep erected the officers and Company that for he never made the att~mpt, tion of and power over the male psy quarters, about one-half mile above. and for the honor of the old 1st Cav che." and was "a genius at the art" of We remained there until the latter alry, not one of the enlisted men ever the "manipulation of men." An as part of October 1861, when we were went South or left the flag to my tute businesswoman, she built a for ordered to Fort Leavenworth. [The knowledge. On leaving Fort Wise, K tune on gambling, prostitution, name of Fort Wise was changed to Company had only 36 enlisted men horse racing, cock fighting, and in 1<'ort Lyon, to honor Nathaniel Lyon.] and of these 10 were commissioned vestments.
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She loaned money to U.S. Army Thompson, has been the leader route or enjoying a vicarious venture personnel, gave charity to the needy, among those trying to find the an from your favorite easy chair. aided .Bishop Jean Baptiste Lamy swers and understand the circum SFTA has recognized Franzwa's and the Catholic Church (upon her stances which led to the untimely de trail work with an Award of Merit death in 1852 she was given a grand mise of the young nun. Dr. Thomp and the Rittenhouse Award for life funeral and buried in the parish son has spent a good portion of her time achievement. Now it would be church in Santa Fe), and was ac adult life seeking the truth. This vol great if he would get his Santa Fe cepted as one ofthe elite ofsociety in ume contains the results of her re Trail Revisited back in print. Santa Fe.. search, including all the details from Cook has provided the' definitive planning to completion of Bishop biography of Dona Tules, a notable Lamy's efforts to bring more priests achievement given the paucity of and nuns to his diocese in 1867. personal records (BarceI6's will, in Lamy led the party over the Santa Fe HOOF PRINTS cluding her signature, is one of the Trail. American Caravan presents few documents directly connected to the intriguing story of that fateful -TRAIL TIDBITS- her). The stories of her family, her crossing of the Great Plains. Choos • • • • marriage, her lovers, her businesses, ing a fOrmat similar to Geoffrey The new Smoky Hill Trail Asso her home and other properties, her Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, Dr. ciation invites anyone interested in talents, her charities, and her sig Thompson has arranged the story as this historic route to join. Member nificance are all here. . seen from the viewpoint of many of ship is $25 per year for individuals and $30 for families. Send to Dona Tules was possibly the most the partiCipants. What happened is the overall goal SmHTA, PO Box 322, WaKeeney KS influential woman associated with 67672. the Santa Fe Trail. She now joins the of this investigation. A combination of circumstances (including the • • • • growing list of women connected to A new Pike National Historic flooded streams caused by unusually the Trail whose stories have been Trail Association is being formed. heavy rains, the Indian hostilities told. Her name, Cook declares, "still For more information, please contact lingers at the intersection of Burro sparked by General Winfield S. Han Harv Hisgen, 10060 Blue Sky Tr,' Alley and Palace Avenue" in Santa cock's capture and burning of a Conifer CO 80433. Fe. This finely-crafted book is highly Cheyenne and Sioux village on • • • • recommended. Pawnee Fork in April 1867, and the John Conoboy has retired from his • • •• worst outbreak of Asiatic cholera position with the NPS Long Distance Alice Anne Thompson. American along the Santa Fe Trail during its Trails Office in Santa Fe, where he Caravan. Independence: Two Trails 60-year history) dictated the routes has worked closely with SFTA. His Publishing, 2007. Pp. 292. Maps, il of travel taken by Bishop Lamy's replacement is Sharon Brown. She lustrations, appendices, notes, bibli caravan and the multiple hazards it looks forward to working with SFTA. ography, index. Paper, $24.95 + faced along the way. The telling of •••• shipping. Available from Last the details from the various view F. Eugene Barber has written a Chance Store. points provides the elements of novel, Spoon Valley; Along the Santa The tragic tale of the death and drama, mystery, and tragedy that Fe Trail, which may be ordered from burial of 19-year-old Mary Alphonsa combine to make American Caravan
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scheduled for June through August. · May 10: Santa Fe Trail Caravan. Websites: www.friendsar.org; www.ar To be included, sen~ information to Take a 3-mile hike on the Trail be rowrock.org; www.lyceumetheatre. Paula Manini at the Trinidad His hind .an ox-driven Conestoga org: . tory Museum (see below) by April 15, wagon. Call for more information. .' Call for hours and events. 2008. Also, please keep sending any Fort Union National Monument Boggsville Historic Site PO Box 127. I:hanges regarding e-mail addresses, PO Box 68 ' Watrous NM 87753 'contact information,' news, and Las Animas CO 81054 Telephone: 505-425-8025 ehi:mges of hours open. Telephone: 719-456-1358 E-mail: [email protected] Arthur Roy Mitchell Memorial Museum E-mail:[email protected] Website: www.nps;gov/foun of Western Art Website: www.bentcounty.org/site · Open Monday-Sunday except for 150 East Main St sandcelebrations/historic/htm major holidays. Located 8 miles Trinidad CO 81082 • Contact Boggr>ville for tours and activi- north of Interstate 25 at the end of ". ties. " Telephone: 719-846-4224 NM Highway 161. f:-mail:[email protected] Boot Hill Museum · Self-guided interpretive trails (1.6 • Front Street mile and .5 mile) through the ru · Enjoy artwork of Trinidad native . Dodge City KS 67801 A. R. Mitchell; Harvey Dunn, and ins. Guided tours, by request; Telephone: 620-227-8188 groups of ten or more people need other Western artists. The mu E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.boothill.org advance reservations. seum alsofeatllres historic photo Gas and Historical Museum graphs, Hispanic folk art, Indian ·.Museum: Call for hours.' .Stevens County Historical Society artifacts, and cowboy gear..' • Boot Hill Cemetery, Boot Hill &. PO Box 87' , · The Museum and Gift Shop will Front Street: Open Monday Hugoton KS 67951 open on May 1 and be openTues Satur- day 9:00-5:00 and Sunday Telephone: 620-544-8751 day~Sunday, 10:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. _ 1:00-5:00. E-mail: [email protected] through the summer.· · Santa Fe Trail Ruts. nine miles · Call for hours and events. · Admission: $3 for adults; members west of Dodge City. on US Hwy Grant County Chamber of Commerce 400; markers and observation 113-B South Main and children 12 and· under free. point. Open during daylight hours. Ulysses KS 67880 Arrow..Rock State Historic Site Cimarron Heritage Center Museum \ Telephone: 620-356-4700 1)0 Box 124 PO Box 214 . '. Website: www.ulysseschamber.org Arrow Rock MO 65320 Boise City OK 73933 f • Call for hours and activities. ~'elephone: 660-837-32.31 or 3330 Telephone: 580-544-3479 Herzstein Memorial Museum !:-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Union County Historical Society Websites: www.arrowrock.org; . Website: www.ptsi.net/users/museum PO Box 75 (2nd & Walnut Sts.) www.mostateparks.com/arrowrock. • Open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m. Clayton NM 88415 I1tm " 12 p.m. and 1-4 p.m., except major Telephone: 505-374-2977 · Open 9:00"5:00 Monday-Saturday; holidays. E-mail: [email protected] Sunday by chance. Cimarron Recreation Area Barto!" County Museum & Village Cimarron National Grassland · Call for hours and events. PO Box 1091 PO Box 300 Historic Adobe Museum (;reat Bend KS 67530 242 EHighway 56 PO Box 909 (300 E Oklahoma) 'Celephone: 620-793-5125 Elkhart KS 67950 Ulysses, KS 67880 . Website: www.bartoncountymuseum Telephone: 620-697·4621 Telephone: 620-356-3009 .org E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Open Wednesday-Friday, 10 a.m.- Website: wwwJsJed.us/r2/psicc/cim · Call for hours and activities or · Open Monday-Friday 10:00-5:00 ) 5 p.m.; Saturday, ·1-5 p.m. Group and Saturday & Sunday 1:00-5:00. visit the web site. • tours available by reservation. / Citizens Committee for Historic Preser Closed holidays. Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site vation Historic Trinidad, Colorado' :1511 0 Highway 194 East, ' 127 Bridge Street City of Trinidad Tourism Board La Junta CO 81050 PO Box 728 PO Bos 880 Telephone: 719-383-5010 Las Vegas NM 87701. Trinidad, C 81082 F.-mail: [email protected] Website: www.historictrinidad.com Website: www.nps.gov.beol Telephone: 505-425-8802 .. Open 9 'a.m. To 4 p.m. daily with E-mail: [email protected] • Founded on the Santa Fe Trail.in .guided tours offered at.10:30 a.m. · Call for event information. 1861, Trinidad is on the Santa Fe and 1:00 p.m. To schedule group Coronado Quivira Museum National Historic Trail Auto.Route tours, call 719-383-5026. Rice County Historical Society and Colorado's Santa Fe Trail Sce 105 West Lyon nic and Historic Byway. · May 5 - September 2: Trails and Lyons KS 6'7554 Rails Trips narrated excursions Telephone: 620-257·3941 ,. · In January, True West Magazine aboard Amtrak's Southwest Chief E-mail: [email protected]. i . designated Trinidad as the nfl; depart La Junta, CO, on MondilYS • Open Monday-Saturday 9:00-5:00, tion's third best western town to and ,Fridays for overnight trips to . Sunday 1:00 to 5:00, closed major visit in 2008' . , holidays. • Albuquerque, NM. Follow the • Trinidad boasts four museums, an Mountain Route of the Trail over Friends of Arrow Rock . 309 Main acclaimed national historic dis Raton Pass while learning stories Arrow Rock MO 65320 , trict, the Purgatoire River Walk, 'of people, plants, and animals Telephone: 660-837-3231 summer performances by the along the way. For more ,informa E-mail: [email protected] . Southern CO~Qrado Repertory tion, call 719-383-5024.
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Theatre, the Trinidaddio Blues PO Box 633 End of the Trail Festival, and numerous recrea Fort Lupton CO 80621 La Alcaldesa Joy Poole tional activities for people of all Telephone: 303-857-2123 125 W Lupita Rd ages. Website: www.spvhs.org Santa Fe NM 87505 · Call ahead to visit the Donelson (505) 820-7828 Jefferson Nat. Expansion Memorial Homestead House, 1875 Inde 11 N Fourth Street
26 Wagon Tracks February 2008
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ing completed at Zebulon Pike Plaza
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We thank you for your support. Lori Keller, 8802 SW Dean Rd, ing, Council Grove, KS. Clarksdale MO 64430 April 13, 2008: 1:00 p.m., Wet/Dry FAMILY MEMBERSHIPS Erick Nordling, HC 0 Box 2AA, Craig & Nancy Bellati, 4 New West Hugoton KS 67951 Routes Chapter, Fort Larned NHS, Ct, Santa Fe NM 87506 Lynn Percell, 402 S 10th, Bethany George Elmore program on frontier George & Pat Blinn, 15 Cielo Tran MO 64424 artillery. quilo Ct, Santa Fe NM 87508 Nancy Petruzzi, 250. Camino del April 26, 2008: Fort Larned Old Cliff & Carol Danielson, 19 Esquina Olmo, Santa Fe NM 87501 Guard and Society of Friends of His Rd, Santa Fe NM 87508 Wes Redfield, 1576 S Elm St, Denver toric Fort Hays joint meeting, Fort CO 80222 INDIVIDUAL MEMBERSHIPS Hays State Historic Site, with pro Annette Rhinehart, 933 Fontana gram on Hancock Expedition and the Rachael Ahlers, 1221 A Webster, Ave, Platte City MO 64079 Billie F. Schneider, 806 Pine, Tarkio Cheyenne and Sioux Indians. Con Chillicothe MO 64601 tact
Santa Fe Trail Association •• • •• IC"- ~-:J NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION PO Box 31 ~ ~rT!,"" U.S. POSTAGE Woodston, KS 67675 PAID PERMIT NO. 2 Change Service Requested WOODSTON KS 67675
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