#750 20 - 26 March 2015 22 pages Rs 50
y most international standards Kathmandu Bshould be considered uninhabitable because this city of 2.5 million has no functioning water mains. But residents have learnt to improvise: they pump ground water, buy water from tankers or collect the rain. But the mainstay of water supply SPECIAL for inner city Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur are still the water spouts built by the Malla kings COVERAGE 400 years ago (below). Fifteen years behind PAGE 16-17 H O schedule, the Melamchi project to supply water to 2 Kathmandu Valley is likely to be further delayed.
KENJI KWOK
DELETE ‘INTERIM’ JUMPING OFF IN JOMSOM EDITORIAL PAGE 2 A TEMPORARY CONSTITUTION THE DEADLINE BY DAMAKANT JAYSHI Jomsom used to a windy airport town FACING-SAVING PAGE 4 where trekkers waited for a flight ON FACEBOOK back. But with the completion of the What if Nepal’s netas JUSTICE IN road to Pokhara, it is a jumping-off were all on Facebook? TRANSITION point for treks into unexplored side- The Ass ruminates on LEGALESE valleys of the Kali Gandaki. the possibilities of social BY BINITA DAHAL networking for political DESTINATION NEPAL PAGE 15 networking. PAGE 7-9 PAGE 22 PAGE 19-20 2 EDITORIAL 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 DELETE 'INTERIM'
t has been more than a month since the Constituent of federalism. Assembly has been suspended to give time for the top The best solution for now would be to The best alternative plan we have heard is the one of Ileadership of the main parties to forge an agreement. adopt the basic document of the Interim adopting the basic document of the Interim Constitution Just that fact alone should prove where the real power 2007, adding the agreed bits of the new draft on form lies in this country. It doesn’t lie with the people, but with Constitution 2007 and add the agreed bits of government, judiciary and election procedures, and a bunch of double-speaking men who go round and round promulgate that. To make this option more acceptable to in circles. The CA has been relegated to a rubber-stamp from the new draft. the people, it could coincide with the announcement of a body that is there only to approve what this exclusive date for local elections. coterie decides. The trouble is that they haven’t been able For nearly two decades now, the country hasn’t had to agree on anything. elections for village, district and municipal councils. The There are three main players here. The ruling NC-UML result is there for all to see: the erosion of accountability coalition, the UCPN(M) led alliance with Madhesi and at the local level, a corruption pandemic, extortion and other smaller parties, and the Hindu-right RPP-N, which blockage of infrastructure projects by goons enjoying is gaining strength because of public disillusionment, an political protection, and last but not least, the mountains anti-secular wave, and geopolitical factors. of garbage on Kathmandu’s streets. The operational strategy of both NC-UML and Maoist- Clause 38.1 of the Interim Constitution already has Madhesi at the moment can be best described as ‘talk inbuilt provisions in its preamble to address discrimination loudly and carry a big stick’. The NC-UML has threatened on the basis of class, ethnicity, geography, culture, religion, to take federalism to a vote in the CA unless the opposition or gender, and restructure the state along principles of does what it says. And the Maoist-Madhesi front is warning democracy and inclusion. Frankly, it is not clear how of another round of nationwide strikes early next month federalism is going to be the cure-all to all these ills. In unless the government does what it says. Calling this a fact, the misgivings are now shared by some of the top stalemate would be an understatement. It is hopelessly leaders across the political spectrum and sections of the stuck. international community including our neighbours to the The real reason for the sudden failure of negotiations north and south. last week was the Supreme Court decision rejecting As Damakant Jayshi argues on page 4, the Interim clauses in the Truth and Reconciliation Commission Act Constitution is actually more progressive than the new that would grant sweeping amnesty for wartime excesses. draft with regard to issues like granting citizenship in the As Binita Dahal writes on page 15, this has given the ruling name of the mother. Adopting an amended version of the parties, state security forces and the Maoists sleepless Interim Constitution on 29 May with announcement of nights – leading to talks on re-merging the UCPN(M) and local elections would be least disruptive and most forward- the CPN-M, and the announcement of street protests. looking way to end this debilitating deadlock, and allow Maoist leader Pushpa Kamal Dahal is also livid that a May, which happens to be Republic Day. We’ll believe that the country to move ahead to catch up with development, tranche of funds being ferreted into the country from the when we see it, but it does offer a glimmer of hope that some investment and economic growth. Let’s face it: successive Virgin Islands has been blocked by the Rastra Bank. politicians are now so embarrassed by repeatedly letting the public opinion polls have shown that jobs and services Despite this there has been one unanimous people down that they want to pass a constitution by hook are what most Nepalis are interested in, not identity, understanding: to try to pass ‘a constitution’ on 29 or by crook, even if it means postponing the divisive issue federalism, secularism, or even a new constitution.
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AIRPORT TROUBLE and opening businesses, I wonder Gizmo, #749)? because he would teach these THIS WEEK Very frustrating that the authorities why the Nepal government didn’t It is great news that Nepal has syndicate of gangsters a lesson can’t seem to get anything right allow the Americans or the Europeans its own brand of smartphone, but they will never forget. Just like (‘Bad just got worse’, Om Astha Rai, to do the same years ago? we cannot compromise on quality when he sacked Deuba for #749). The same CAAN responsible Com Cruise just because we want to support missing his deadline. These for the TIA management is in Nepali products. A detailed review is leaders have no discipline and charge of safety oversight of airlines I do not think any foreigner is needed. But I would be very happy integrity, they keep paying lip registered with them and operating legally allowed to buy immovable to buy this phone if it performs well. service to the people, but have in Nepal. Last month, a video which properties in Nepal. There is no law Sidd little to show for it. The only thing shows a shocking lack of concern that currently permits the buying/ they are capable of is extending DEVAKI BISTA (54 LIKES) for safety by a Nepali airline was selling of immovable properties to Great news. Hopefully it is a their tenures and feeding on state posted on YouTube. The matter foreigners, so the question of Chinese great phone worth its price. resources and benefi ts. Most liked on Facebook was also reported to CAAN but the buying land is irrelevant. Yes, Rohit Rai Guest HITCHED: A Chinese couple getting ready for a wedding portrait on the steps of the offi cials who were happy to receive investors for business and raising Nyatapola Temple in Bhaktapur on Monday. some extra cash on the side took employment are heartily welcome. E-SPECIAL ASS no action against the airline. No Sam I guess that’s another way to I sent this week's Ass column to wonder the EU blacklisted Nepal. get new equipment by setting fi re someone who has no idea about Most shared on Facebook Nepali leads leukamia discovery by Nepal and its issues (‘Feeling like Airline Guy We should focus on tourism, to the ones we have (‘Garbage Sahina Shrestha period. Not Chinese-centric tourism collection resumes’, 16 March). Now god already’, Ass, #749). The guy Anything that the government which would be a bigger folly than not let’s spread out our begging hands could not stop laughing. Absolute Most popular on Twitter needs to do, they will stall for as focusing on tourism in the fi rst place. towards the donor countries and see classic! Preserving Nepal's soul by Stéphane Huët (16 retweets, 23 favourites) long as possible. Just look at the Namah who will give us the brand new ones. N whole constitution fi asco. We can also torch the houses we live Most visited online page Kaok ENERGY in, we might get lucky and get new Ass, this one’s hard to beat. Bad just got worse by Om Astha Rai Well argued, logical and makes ones built. Stupid pyromaniacs!!! An article in the same issue (1109 views) The chaotic situation at the perfect sense ('A new energy mix Bairagi Khukuri also showed rapid increase in Most commented airport is just a small glimpse of for a new Nepal', Suraj Pandey, number of Chinese tourists. If Tourism fl atlines, Chinese are up what is wrong with this country and #749). Installing village-level biomass No one is above the law and Col more Chinese tourists are arriving its leaders, all of whom seem to gasifi er power-plants in the Tarai is a Lama shouldn’t be treated in any and our strategy is to make it have zero morals and commitment great idea but what we truly need is a special way (‘Bring Col Lama back’, diffi cult for tourists to leave Nepal, Weekly Internet Poll #750 towards fulfi lling their duties. group of implementers who have the 13 March). Families who lost their in another generation we may Q. Should our law have a provision for death penalty? Bir Bahadur common sense to see the benefi ts loved ones in the insurgency are become the south-western-most of such an initiative. However if there still waiting for justice. It is time their territory of China. Positive for Total votes: 121 TOURISM were kickbacks to be made, I am sure voices are heard. Nepalis: we may become an Nepal is ruined for all tourists the leaders would immediately jump Yam Gurung economic superpower in just a except the Chinese (‘Tourism at the idea. generation with the philosophy fl atlines, Chinese are up’, #749). C Jha What a joke (‘New deadline’, 11 of 'not doing today what can be Pokhara used to be a nice, peaceful March). I thought this news-piece done tomorrow' (and an implicit place but now it is unbearable with NEPALI SMARTPHONE was about parties agreeing to a understanding that tomorrow pollution, large buildings and traffi c. Where are the chipsets from, what new constitution, but it’s agreeing never comes). Keep on shining Weekly Internet Poll #751 On top of that the Chinese are about the GPU, and future update to to a new deadline. Honestly, I wish the light, Donkey. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com everywhere, they are buying land software ('The Nepali smartphone', the King was back in the palace, ANepali Q. Will you support the general strikes called by the Maoist-Madhesi alliance?
Publisher and Chief Editor: Kunda Dixit Associate Editor: Tsering Dolker Gurung | Online Producer: Ayesha Shakya | Design: Kiran Maharjan Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd | Patan Dhoka, Lalitpur | GPO Box 7251 Kathmandu [email protected] | www.nepalitimes.com | www.himalmedia.com | Tel: 01-5005601-08 Fax: +977-1-5005518 Marketing: Arjun Karki, Surendra Sharma [email protected] | Advertorials: Ram Krishna Banjara | Subscriptions: Santosh Aryal [email protected] Nepali Times on Facebook Follow @nepalitimes on Twitter Printed at Jagadamba Press | 01-5250017-19 | www.jagadambapr.com 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 3 4 NATION 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 A temporary constitution Why not just cut and paste the Interim Constitution and get it over with? iven the inability (or Of course, the hard work unwillingness) of the main begins soon after ensuring Gpolitical players to resolve true decentralisation decision- the dispute over federalism, it making process, promoting would be prudent to look for inclusive policies, ensuring alternatives. local bodies elections for At the time of going to press, service delivery and working the stumbling blocks were still the on governance. The debate on five disputed districts, and power- federalism can continue in a less sharing after the constitution. They charged atmosphere. have given themselves another The Interim Constitution deadline of Republic Day on 29 could continue until the parties May as the new C-Day. are able to discard their petty interests and work sincerely towards a new statute. After all, the 2007 document is the only one that has been accepted by most pro-change parties, including by default even the THE DEADLINE BIKRAM RAI breakaway factions from the Damakant Jayshi UCPN (M). that this quest for raw power is obvious exception of the ailing UML are in no particular hurry This would end the ‘business The 30-party opposition actually about the lofty goals prime ministerial aspirant KP Oli to pass a constitution, they are as usual’ attitude, end the alliance (many of which are not of inclusiveness, identity, of the UML, almost everyone else too busy trying to undermine prolonged transition during represented in the Constituent equality and Nepal’s integrity would be perfectly happy if the him and secretly hope that his which the government is Assembly) has said it will and sovereignty. And identity current stalemate dragged on. gamble on CA vote will fail. unaccountable and incapable talk and protest on the streets is just a code word for the NC president and Prime The UCPN (M) and their of its primary duties. Moreover, simultaneously. The ruling parties’ dreaded ethnicity-based state Minister Sushil Koirala thinks it Madhesi allies are planning the Interim Constitution has response: We will talk and take the restructuring. would let him stay in Baluwatar to cash in on any rift between institutionalised concepts like process forward for a vote in the The parties are mentally for some more time. Sher Bahadur the NC and UML that may republicanism, secularism and CA simultaneously. poles apart, so they may very Deuba, who is positioning be the result of delays in the federalism. It is still likely that the parties well fail to reach a deal. It seems himself to unseat Koirala as party constitution. With numbers in And lastly, the real beauty would be able to strike a deal on both our northern and southern president and subsequently as the CA stacked heavily against of the interim statute is that it their electoral future regarding neighbours are having doubts PM, needs more time to get his them, the opposition alliance bestows the rights of transfer the districts of Jhapa, Morang, about federalism and fear that it act together ahead of the party’s will keep on chanting their of citizenship to women as Sunsari, Kailali and Kanchanpur. may lead to more instability in General Convention in September. mantra of consensus. well, unlike the current draft But ironically, the real obstacles Nepal. Right now Deuba is hoping for a The least painful alternative which has a conservative and to talks seemed to be dividing up Then there are politicians who public backlash against Koirala would be to accept the Interim regressive proposal that bars important constitutional posts are passing remarks like, “What’s for his failure to deliver on the Constitution of 2007 as a citizenship in the name of the among themselves. Trust their the haste? This CA still has three statute. permanent one to provide mother. ability to give the impression more years.” With the most Even Oli’s comrades in the closure to the transition period. @damakant
BIZ BRIEFS One more Qatar Airways has added a second A350 XWB aircraft to its fl eet for fl ights to Frankfurt. With the addition, the airline will now fl y to Frankfurt twice a day exclusively with the A350 XWB. Go digital As part of its Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), Everest Bank on Monday donated computers to Shree Ram Sakhi Mohit Singh Janata HSS in Sarlahi. The bank has been supporting infrastructure development of several public and community schools in rural Nepal. Enjoy exchange Laxmi Intercontinental, the authorised distributor of Hyundai Cars in Nepal, is organising an exchange camp from 16 to 21 March throughout its outlets in the country. The company has announced various deals on exchanges and upgrade including a loyalty bonus of up to Rs 75,000 and exchange bonus of up to Rs 50,000. Colourful meet Pashupati Paints concluded its Annual Dealers Meet at Hotel Hyatt Regency in Kathmandu on 14 March. The company offi cially launched its newest paint, Luxuria Style at the event attended by 250 dealers from Nepal. Golden Jubilee Bhajuratna Engineering and Sales has announced scholarships for 20 students from ten rural VDCs where the company operates, and free cataract operations for 50 people at the Hetauda Community Eye Hospital. 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 5 6 NATION 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 If it bleeds, it still leads Even in the age of citizen journalism, we can’t seem to cover the good news
re journalists supposed the international wires are to give the public what it interested in reporting anything Awants or what we think about Tibetans in Nepal is when the public needs? Do we really they are staging an anti-China know what the public wants? protest. It fits neatly in Western Just as tabloid journalism media’s narrative, but ignores the resorted to sensationalism, larger issues of the refugees, their reporters in the age of citizen lives and their truths. And the journalism are driven by the need only time reporters can be seen to maximise hits. The quality of chasing their Tibetan sources is our online stories, our Tweets, on the Dalai Lama’s birthday or our Instagram pictures, or videos the anniversary of the Tibetan uprising, rest of the year as far as the western media is concerned, Nepal’s Tibetans don’t exist. For example, they could cover the issue of undocumented Tibetan refugees born in Nepal? BETWEEN THE Or young Tibetans who have to LINES leave for India because they are Tsering Dolker Gurung not entitled to any basic rights
BIKRAM RAI by law here? Or even of Tibetans who have stayed on in Nepal, on Vine are judged by their eye narrative even if the interviews waiting for something to happen. who lost their lives in self- prospered and contributed to ball counts, retweets, mentions, deviate from our pre-determined A photographer friend had immolations. Nepal’s economy. shares, or feedbacks. Hence, angle. been tipped off that a planned The headline ‘Tibetans hold Bad news makes great the Youtube clip of a cute cat On 10 March, Tibetans all demonstration would break out prayer ceremony for lost lives’ headlines, good news not so will always get more hits than a over the world marked Uprising any moment. doesn’t stand a chance against much. That also explains why a news piece on the constitutional Day. The date doesn’t mean Images of scuffles, protestors ‘Tibetans in police custody after London-based newspaper will deadlock. much to local journalists, being dragged into police vans scuffles’. To the dismay of our gladly publish an ‘expose’ on Page views-led journalism but correspondents and and weeping refugees make for photojournalist colleagues, there brick kilns employing children, today afflicts the mainstream photojournalists for foreign news shots that can go international. was no protest that day. but ignore the ones which have media as well, since they compete agencies in Kathmandu have The images are also the ones “Things used to be so much moved towards cleaner, energy- with social networking sites on marked it off in their calendars. most likely to be picked up by fun before,” said a Kathmandu- efficient technologies. Stories the Internet. While looking for the And they were all there last an editor for the ‘photo of the based correspondent for an about migrant workers suffering most dramatic version of a story, Tuesday, keeping vigil with the day’ in some online site. None international news agency in Gulf states are ubiquitous, but we often miss out on reporting riot police for any signs of a of the photographers were referring to the photogenic police success stories about Nepalis who new and original angles. We have demonstration. interested in a prayer ceremony vs monks confrontations on the have returned and made a future written the story in our heads At a teashop in Ekantakuna being held at the community streets of Kathmandu before the for themselves? Nah, that’s not before going out in the field, a group of photographers from monastery down the road in Beijing Olympics in 2008. news. and are reluctant to change our international news agencies sat memory of the 136 Tibetans The only time it seems that @Chenreeyang Spring is quickly giving way to summer as the temperature climbs to the mid-twenties over the weekend in Kathmandu. With some low pressure systems having passed us this week, the sky will be clear, mornings still a bit chilly at 11 degrees, but afternoons should be breezy and balmy. There is the possibility of cloud buildup in the high valleys that may lead to isolated mountain storms. KATHMANDU FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 24° 24° 25° #750 20 - 26 March 2015 12° 11° 12°
SPIN MASTER: A villager spins yarn using a traditional drop spindle in Lower Mustang.
MUSTANG IN MARCH KENJI KWOK
hen construction for the road northern border with Tibet. the organisers in 2010 made from Beni to Lo Manthang was Eased accessibility has made the district it mandatory for participants to wear Wcompleted last year, many more modern, but the locals are more the official Nepali daura suruwal speculated that it would bring an end wary of the need to preserve their unique (see page 8-9). to Mustang’s mystery. After all, it Tibetian traditions. The annual archery Lo Manthang may be the ultimate JOMSOM was its inaccessibility and 'forbidden' competition in Marpha that has been destination in Mustang but there are status that attracted many searchers of organised for the past 100 years by Thakali also many obscure villages in Lower SPECIAL PAGE 8-9 Shangri-La to pay high entry permit fees families of the area has changed. While Mustang that are as mystical and can be and visit a region nestled on Nepal's contestants could earlier come in casuals, reached on a day’s hike from Jomsom. 8 JUMP OFF FROM JOMSOM t used to be that Jomsom was just a windy airport town where trekkers waited for their flights after the Annapurna Circuit. But with a new Iroad Jomsom is now just a day's drive from Pokhara and a jump off point for many short treks around this trans-Himalayan Valley with its dramatic scenery. The beauty of Jomsom today is that you can make it your base for a leisurely Himalayan holiday. These are just three of the short treks you can do from Jomsom to its surrounding side-valleys.
Thini his 4-5 hour hike from Jomsom is easy paced and allows trekkers ample time to take Jomsom he route from Kagbeni to Muktinath offersers Dhumba in the sights and sounds of the village. Walk along the narrow paths along terraces Kagbeni gorgeous views of Upper Mustang’s ochre-re- T T LO MANTHANG Kutsab Teranga of barley before arriving at Thini. Next, meander along the spacious rock roads that run Jhong (Lunch) coloured landscape and the sweep of the KKaliali KAGBENI MUKTINATH Monastery through Jomsom before arriving at the gorgeous Dhumba Lake where views of Dhaulagiri Muktinath Gandaki. Stop by Jhong for lunch before continuinging JOMSOM and Tukuche Peak greet you. There is a little teahouse on the edge of the lake where you up to Muktinath. Though this trek does not requireuire POKHARA can sit and enjoy the view. steep ascents, the long up and down requiresres KATHMANDU To complete the day’s trek, you can choose to walk up to the nearby Kutsab Teranga stamina and a steady walking pace if one wishess to Monastery. Pine trees line the path to the gumba while prayer flags decorate small reach the famous temple by sunset. ashrams and stupas built on top of the hill. Diffi culty level: 4.5/5 Diffi culty level: 2/5
or a week every year in Marpha, some 50 men gather in a courtyard wielding traditional Fwooden bows and arrows to take part in an archery competition called ‘Termi Torenla’ which means 'new beginnings' in the Thakali language. The men take turns to aim at a single black Aiming for tradition target in the middle of a rectangular wooden board 30 metres across the fi eld. The competition usually lasts for about ten hours a day, or until a competitor manages to hit the bull’s eye. Points CYNTHIA CHOO are then calculated before a new round starts the day after. Marpha’s century old For centuries, the bow and arrow have been archery competition is proof synonymous with hunting. But when asked if hunting was practiced in Marpha, Bhakti Hirachan, of how much the Thakali one of the competition’s organisers said: “We’ve people value their culture never hunted animals for food.” A community that survived on subsistence farming and animal rearing, wood and bamboo were part of Marpha’s culture since the very beginning. Hirachan said: “We made use of our natural resources by making bows and arrows, and we organise this archery competition as a way to bring people together and remember our culture.” Though there are hits and misses, Termi ALL PICS: CYNTHIA CHOO 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 9
Small is more beautiful reviews three guest houses along the Pokhara-Jomsom road
scenic view of the Annapurna range at the top of the Astam Kot hill. Its bold concept of disconnecting guests from their electronics by not providing internet connection or television sets in the rooms is one of its unique characteristics, ensuring that you soak in all that nature has to off er. The 10-room accommodation also has its own organic farm that supplies the freshest vegetables for its meals, specialising in authentic Japanese cuisine amongst others. The 80-ropani resort aims to be self- sustainable by adapting beekeeping for honey, buff aloes and goats for Dhakarjung tower or those who crave a little adventure, there is the milk, yogurt, butter, and the production of bio gas from manure. Phalyak village Fchallenging trek up to Dhakarjung tower, where the If you would like to prepare your own meal, the staff at Hana Phakling village telecom station for Jomsom is located. This alternative KENJI KWOK no ie will be there to guide you through every step, from picking the Kagbeni trekking route was discovered by Tripple Gurung, vegetables straight from the farm to whipping up a sumptuous meal. a former airline pilot who now runs Om's Home in Hana no ie also makes its own coff ee. Phalyak KAGBENI Jomsom. This short but steep walk has HANA NO IE (AGRO-RESORT) MUKTINATH Being able to end each day unwinding in the goemon-buro, a Phakling plenty of adventure in the form of snowy DHAKARJUNG nce opened to only Japanese tourists, Hana no ie, located only traditional Japanese hot bath heated using fi rewood, is probably the trails especially along the northern slopes. O15km from Pokhara, now welcomes guests from all over the world best thing about the resort. Seasoned trekkers can expect to reach Dhakarjung to its agro-resort of traditional mud-walled cottages, matched with the www.hananoie-nepal.com top in about two hours, before taking another hour or JOMSOMJOMSOM so to get down. Your lunch stop will be most likely be at Phalyak village, from where you can continue on to Kagbeni. Those who want to trek further can stay a night LODGE in Kagbeni before going on to Muktinath the next THASANG VILLAGE day. For those who wish to return to Jomsom, jeep rides are available throughout the day, with the odge Thasang Village was named after Thasang, a vehicle leaving when the maximum capacity (12) Lcollection of 13 villages from North Tukuche to South is met. Ghasa, and blessed with majestic views of Nilgiri and Diffi culty level: 3.5/5 Dhaulagiri. The lodge was built on what used to be a buckwheat Diffi culty level has been assessed by a fi rst-time trekker. fi eld, using entirely locally sourced materials. Located in Kobang, the lodge off ers close views of the mountains (just Torenla has hit the bull’s eye when it comes “Changpa [juniper] represents good luck 10km from the summit of Dhaulagiri, the world's eighth to preserving Marpha’s unique cultural and is a form of encouragement for the team highest mountain). The rooftop provides the best vantage heritage. members,” said Hirachan, who is also a social point for photography enthusiasts to take pictures of the It is compulsory that competitors come worker in the village. mountains and the vast Kali Gandaki River during sunrise in the traditional Nepali dress. “About fi ve, Women provide support during the and sunset. www.lodgethasangvillage.com six years ago, people used to show up in competition when the men are unable to KENJI KWOK jeans and t-shirts, and we felt the Nepali hit the target, a tradition that is reminiscent culture was fading away,” said Hirachan. of how women are similarly important in Competitors must be dressed in the the production of Marpha's Apple Brandy, traditional daura suruwal and wear a dhaka through their expertise in the distillery OM’S HOME topi (Nepali cap) or else they are fi ned process. Rs 25. The participation of the Dalit community m’s Home in Jomsom is a cosy and comfortable Termi Torenla is also symbolic of the – traditionally drummers and musicians – is Oplace to stay for trekkers along the Annapurna close-knitted Marpha community and unites also symbolic of Marpha’s determination to route looking to appreciate the beauty of Mustang. men from all four families — the Hirachans, include other communities in its festivals. The reputed accommodation is an ideal place Lachans, Jawarchans and Panachans — “We don’t discriminate against them. to sit back with a book or go explore the nearby who form two teams to participate in the They are important as they provide music to villages through a list of itineraries designed by competition. signify the start and end of every round,” owner Tripple Gurung. And if you prefer to venture When the drums sound and one said Hirachan. out on a bicycle the guest house has several member takes aim, the others stand in a line As the rhythmic beats of the drums mountain bikes up for rent. behind him holding up branches of juniper. continue to sound throughout the day, The hotel is also home to the only Himalayan The repeated rituals during the competition the men occasionally break out into a Java outlet in the area, so you don’t have to miss also allude to the recurring red and white traditional folk song with the repeated out on a good cup of joe while in this trans- colours that paint the door fronts of all the lines: “Everything is changing, but not our Himalayan oasis. houses in Marpha. culture”. www.omshomejomsom.com KENJI KWOK 10 EVENTS DINING EU Film Fest, Rs 1200 per session, 27 March, 17 and The fourth edition of the EU Film Festival 24 April, 4pm to 6pm, Karma Coff ee, has a selection of fi lms from 19 diff erent Jhamsikhel, 9843767232, malika@ European countries. karmacoff ee.com.np 21 to 25 March, QFX-Kumari Hall, Kamal Pokhari, (01)4429445, Momo mania, [email protected] The biggest momo party of the year. Rs 899 (adults), Rs 599 (under SLC), Curating 101, 21 March, 2pm to 9pm, Bhrikuti A workshop on dealing with local art Mandap, (01)5544263, (01)5546696, production in relation to contemporary [email protected], Capital Grill, global processes. www.thebakerycafe.com.np This American style diner off ers a 21 March, 9am to 12.30pm, large assortment of appetisers and Rock, ride, run, Yala Maya Kendra, Patan Dhoka, Phantalassa, entrees to suit everyone’s tastes. Radisson Invitations open for outdoor athletes 9830608874, [email protected] An exhibition of sound, video, Bhatbhateni, (01)4428426, to compete at the Himalayan Outdoor drawing and photography by [email protected] Special, Festival. Mexican artist, Alain Ledezma, in Holy mountains, Starting this month The Terrace Garden 21 March, Hattiban Hills, (01)6218484, residence at Mcube. A lecture by Belgian author and Little Italy, at Radisson is hosting barbecue evenings [email protected], Till 21 March, Siddhartha Art Gallery, mountaineer, Damien François, about Turn vegetarian at this Italian food chain every Friday and Saturday. Visit to enjoy www. himalayanoutdoorfestival.com the sacredness of the Himalayas. Babar Mahal Revisited, (01)4218048, [email protected] and don’t forget to end your meal with the a variety of chicken, beef, fi sh, lamb and 23 March, 5.30pm, Yala Maya Kendra, chef’s special chocolate bomb. sausages, grilled to perfection. Yin Yoga, Patan Dhoka, (01)4472807, Darbar Marg, (01)4233577, Rs 1200 (excluding taxes) per person, A new moon meditation where the sound [email protected] Trash-free Tundikhel, An awareness campaign against [email protected] Friday and Saturday, 6pm to 10pm, of a live violin will guide your spirit to dive The Terrace Garden, Radisson Hotel, into your deepest self. Barista training, littering in public. 21 March, 8am to 10am, Tundikhel, Phat Kath, Lajimpat. 20 March, 5.30pm to 7pm, Learn how to brew a perfect cup of Off ers French-ish food, takeaway crepes, Pranamaya Yoga Studio, Boudha, coff ee with Karma Coff ee’s unique hand (01)4226471, [email protected]. np, www.cleanupnepal.org.np hookahs, and a formidable hip hop 9802045484, [email protected], brewing equipment in a three-day soundtrack for everyone. www.pranamaya-yoga.com workshop. Critical Mass, Thamel, 9803314268 Join a group of cyclists as they seek to reclaim the streets of Kathmandu on their monthly trip. La grande 27 March, 5.30pm, Kathmandu Durbar Square, soirée, 9802024586, Celebrating the International French [email protected] The Corner Bar recently introduced its speaking Day with drama, culinary new menu that combines the best of local stands, an exhibition and a series of Women’s exhibition, and international tastes. Golden fried concerts including a performance by Nine Nepali artists come together prawn, Kurkure Machha Tareko, breaded Joint Family Internationale. for a group exhibition. Chopstix, stuff ed mushrooms, falafel pita bread, 20 March, 5.30pm, Alliance Française of Till 30 April, Newa Chen Art Savoury Asian food cooked in true honey chili potatoes, anyone? Kathmandu, Tripureshwor, (01)4241163, Gallery, Kulimha, Kobahal, Patan, Chinese fashion is sure to charm and Live music (Wednesday to Saturday), [email protected] (01)5533532, impress. Try the famous drums of heaven. 4pm to 10.30pm (happy hours till 7pm), The www.kalavoice.com Kumaripati, (01)5551118 Corner Bar, Radisson Hotel, Lajimpat. 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 11 MUSIC
Underside live, The metal band celebrates ‘Satan’s Night in Hell’. Rs 400 (pre-sale only), 28 March, 6pm, Club 25 Hours, Tangal, 9843664132
Cancer night, A special concert with Kutumba, Rohit John Chettri and Ashesh Rai to raise funds for children battling cancer. Rs 2000, 20 March, 6pm, Moods Lounge, Blue Bird Mall, Tripureswor, 9813353423, 9841467697, [email protected] Combos concert, KJC’s faculty, with Nepali guest musicians and students of the Nepal Jazz Workshop come together for a live concert. Rs 3000, 20 March, 7pm, Moksh, Jhamsikhel, March of Pigs, (01)5013554, [email protected], Progressive rock metal band, Kamero pre-launch www.katjazz.com.np their debut album The Absence Paradox with friends, Tumbleweed Inc, Vomiting Snake, Social Nerve and Horny Monks. 28 March, Purple Haze Rock Bar, Thamel, 9803719781 Sundance, An electronic dance music event with DJs from Nepal and Dubai. 4 April, 1pm onwards, 1905, Kantipath, 9803298511 The Immigrants live, From Argentine and Finnish tango to rare and Marina Xavier Live, evolving klezmer, this European trio promises a Don't miss the charming Singaporean singer as night of global sound. she performs for the fi rst time in Kathmandu. 20 March, 7.30pm, Places Restaurant and Bar, Rs 250, 20 March, 8pm, House of Music, Thamel, Thamel, (01)4700413, [email protected] 9851075172, [email protected]
GETAWAYS Atithi Resort, A perfect place to stay, nearby pool, massage, sauna, and delicious food of your choice. Shantipatan, Lakeside, Pokhara. (061)466760 /400207, [email protected]
Haatiban Resort, Climb up to Chandragiri in the morning for a royal view of Kathmandu Valley and jog down to the hotel for a relaxed evening. Pharping, Kathmandu, (01)4371537/56 Famous Farm, Wake up to the sounds of chirping birds and a fresh morning breeze wafting in through the aankhijhyal. Nuwakot, (01)4700426, [email protected] Relax! Yoga, detox and ayurveda treatment in a quiet Temple Tree Resort and Spa, corner of Kathmandu. A peaceful place to stay, complete with a Himalayan Peace and Wellness Center, swimming pool, massage parlour, and sauna, it’ll Park Village Resort, Budhanilkantha (01)4375280, be hard to leave once you go in. 980106661, [email protected] Gaurighat, Lakeside, (061)465819 12
in the bamboo groves he frequents for work that he begins to glimmer with the idea of taking his beautiful “Princess” into the capital city so that she may finally get her due. I will not reveal too much of the plot – which runs along the classical lines of a charming fable, moonlight and all, but I will say that The Tale of the Princess Kaguya is not as bland as it sounds in my meagre synopsis. The strengths, a staple with Studio Ghibli, lies in the humour, both gentle and raucous, as well as the extraordinary detail with which characters are captured, rendered, and developed. The Tale of the The moments of “Little Bamboo” growing up in the countryside with her hooligan HAPPENINGS Princess Kaguya sidekicks (all chubby little boys scrambling around her long legs, have always loved Studio folk tale about a bamboo cutter aside of course from Sutemaru, Ghibli’s productions, referring who comes across a magical the handsome one) are utterly Ito them often in my reviews, shoot that opens to reveal a tiny, captivating, recording childhood especially when talking about delicate, sleeping princess. in all its glory with skinned knees, animation that is not a product of Convinced that she is an fruit stealing, squabbling, and this blessed dream factory. While offering from heaven, the gluttony. Hayao Miyazaki, the founder and bamboo cutter takes her in his The transition from the country palms and brings the princess to the city is a bit of abrupt, but is home, where she metamorphoses compensated by the entrance of into a wailing, chubby baby some rather hilarious characters, girl in the arms of the shocked though the first half of the film is but simultaneously delighted stronger due to the pastoral setting. wife of the bamboo cutter. The I watched the film in its MUST SEE happy couple raise her as she subtitled version so I missed a Sophia Pande grows rapidly, which earns her few plot points towards the end, the nickname of “Little Bamboo” particularly to do with Japanese acknowledged master of Ghibli did even while the bamboo cutter folklore, but this in no way not direct The Tale of the Princess and his wife continue to call her detracted from my delight with this NEPAL ARMY Kaguya (2013) which is co-written “Princess”; though she calls them film which is set to become another and directed by Isao Takahata, it “Mother” and “Father” with utter Studio Ghibli classic. AND EATING IT, TOO: Prime Minister Sushil Koirala cuts a cake at the 14th is nevertheless one of the most sincerity seemingly unaware of anniversary celebration of the National Security Council at Kathmandu on Wednesday. charming and uplifting films to her magical origins. come out of the famed animation It is only when the bamboo nepalitimes.com studio. cutter begins to discover caches Trailer The film is based on a Japanese of gold and rich silks for kimonos
KIRAN PANTHA NEWLY APPOINTED: Brazil’s ambassador to Nepal, Maria Teresa Mesquita Pessoa, presents her credentials to President Ram Baran Yadav at Shital Niwas on Monday.
GOPEN RAI HEADS UP: Nepali forward Bimal Gharti Magar tries to tackle the ball with a header during the second leg match of the 2018 FIFA World Cup pre-qualifier against India at Dasrath Stadium on Tuesday. 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 13
volume sometimes looks like a travelogue rather than a treatise on the metaphysical aspects of mountains. CLIMBING Damien François isn’t a technical photographer, but says he has a good eye. The majestic landscapes he shot surely help to give some spectacular pictures although TO THE the quality is not uniform. The writing is accessible to anyone who would like to know about the subject. Still DIVINE we feel François had enough material to go deeper – maybe a lack of space because the ynics would say that mountain book is written in three different languages climbing is just a reckless attempt to (English, French and German)? Cgain fame and glory by challenging We can expect more anecdotes related one’s physical capabilities. Yet this activity, to the sacredness of Nepal’s mountains famous in Nepal’s Himalaya, seems to have a in François’s next book to be published in mystical, spiritual dimension. the spring of 2015 which will deal with the Belgian climber Damien François tries Everest avalanche of April 2014. to explain this fascination in his book, Holy Stéphane Huët Mountains of Nepal. The idea of the book came after a series of photographs François had taken during several expeditions in the Himalaya were “I felt there was something great waiting for ego-centric western notion of climbing. “I published in the French journal, Religions me in these mountains,” he told Nepali Times. wanted to compare indigenous approaches et Histoire in 2013. After a lecture tour Aside from the spiritual call of the and those of foreign visitors,” he explains. about his expeditions, he decided to write mountains, François recalls the strong “Holiness has been traded for hard currency.” a book summing up the information he had religious associations with the Himalaya – This book is a sort of tribute to raw nature collected in Nepal. Mt Kailash, for example, is sacred for François who says he has learned more in François himself experienced the for Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and Bönpo. the wild than in many years of studying. “To spiritual call of the mountains ten years ago. To illustrate the universal sacredness of me, being in the mountains is more about the Damien François will deliver a lecture on holy mountains on In 2005, he abandoned his first Himalayan mountains, he compares the Himalayas sublime, the immanence – which can lead to 23 March, 5.30 pm at Yala Maya Kendra, Patan Dhoka. expedition after a bout of mountain to the mountains of North America that the divine,” he says. Holy Mountains of Nepal sickness. But as he was climbing down are worshiped by many Amerindians Comparing it to his three previous books, 90 pages Mt Everest, he already knew he would communities. François says Holy Mountains of Nepal was Vajra Books, 2014 prepare for a second attempt the next year. The author is critical of the reductionist a more personal project. In fact, the slim Rs 550 Maan Nam and bundle them in lettuce OPEN FROM pouches, add some of the 10AM charred veggies and sit back TO 12AM and revel in the explosion of flavours in your mouth. And as with all Korean food, the wide variety of accompanying pened a couple of years side dishes make this a truly ago, Maan Nam was just wonderful meal. Oanother Korean restaurant Their other bestseller is the in town but now under the Trekker’s Diet (Rs 1300) which management of a new team, it has is an entire chicken especially evolved to become a multi-cuisine prepared to provide nourishment restaurant that also houses an to exhausted travelers. Their indoor golf driving range with secret ingredient? Himalayan state-of-the-art golf simulation. Ginseng. Well, since I wasn’t But that is not all there is to this hungry enough to polish off an establishment, the dining room entire chicken by myself and walls are adorned with old photos PICS: RUBY TUESDAY hadn’t returned from an arduous of Kathmandu’s bygone days to to a regular ‘restaurant’ type The food served at Maan and chewy. But that’s me being trek either, this dish will have to keep history buffs engrossed for eating space, they have a well- Nam is still largely Korean, so we nitpicky. wait. hours; there is a little handicrafts stocked lounge bar, an area dived straight into our waiter’s While in restaurant that serves But I will go back and go back outlet that showcases some of for salsa dancing on Tuesdays recommendation - Mandu mostly Korean cuisine, you do often, even if it is just for a nice the finest craftsmanship being live musical performances on (Rs 395) or Korean momos. A as the Koreans do and enjoy a cuppa coffee in their lush garden created by local artisans; and Fridays, and a spacious, well- plate of rather large steamed Samgyeopsal (Rs 600), or beautiful or to try out my golfing skills. the restaurant hosts a farmer’s equipped conference room. Their dumplings filled with a generous thin slices of pork belly grilled Ruby Tuesday market every Saturday. driving range, Nepal Golf Zone, is portion of very lightly flavoured right at the table for you. They’re Maan Nam means respect extremely popular with people of chicken mince served with a cooked with thick slabs of onion How to get there: Maan Nam is in Sanskrit and meeting in all ages. piquant Korean sauce. It was and garlic, pepper and button right across the road from the Korean and that is the ethos that The golf theme is present even filling and very tasty. They need mushrooms and seasoned lightly entrance to Naxal Bhatbhateni’s the owners aim to bring — a in the names of their cocktails to be eaten piping hot though with Korean spices including parking lot in a lane called Padma place for meetings of all kinds. — a Hole in One, a Birdie, or a for as they cool, the dumpling soybean paste, sesame oil and Marg. This means that in addition Bunker Junker, anyone? tends to become slightly tough red pepper flakes. You take these www.nepalgolfzone.com 14 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 Accepting yourself
Hi, I am a 26-year-old girl born AR- I am not sure what the Make sure to have social support important thing for a parent is I find it sad that sometimes families and raised in Kathmandu. I have ‘correct’ way to respond to your when you are ready to tell your to see their children happy, this prioritise society’s judgement over a great family and a good job, question is but I have friends who family. is tricky, but your parents love their children’s happiness. When but I’m struggling to come to have been and are in the same The cultural aspect of you for who you are and not your we love someone, we should accept terms with my sexuality. I knew I boat as you. I would definitely say being pressured to get married sexual orientation. You do have to was ‘different’ from a young age that having social support in this cannot be ignored, because your realise that your parents may not but accepted who I was in college situation is critical, it may be a decision to tell them might leave realise it now. when I fell in love with another partner, friend or cousin. It would you ‘homeless’ temporarily It is hard to defy norms, but I girl. I am leading a double life also be helpful for you to be in so being independent is key. believe it is most important to be and have not told my family, and touch with some professionals Some family members may try true to who you are and accept it is taking a toll on my soul. My who have worked in LGBT issues, to ‘change’ who you are but yourself for the person you ASK ANJANA family wants me to get married if you are interested I can get you marriage is serious, and you have become. Be strong, think ANYTHING but I don’t know how to come their contact information. probably would not want to about yourself and what you Anjana Rajbhandary clean to them without hurting As for telling your family: involve another innocent person want in life, seek personal and their feelings. Should I just move there is no one good answer. and his family into this. professional support. With time, them for who they are-not what they out of Nepal and come back You have to think of either I believe that even though you will make the right decision. ‘should’ become. For more questions when the country becomes more consequences (you will be your parents might not accept You have one life, make it a email me: askanjanaanything@ tolerant and understanding of accepted or you will not) and be you now, eventually they will happy one. nepalitimes.com or @AnjyRajy. LGBT issues? - NN ready to deal with the aftermath. understand you. The most Good luck.
GIZMO by YANTRICK
While the Google team has done a magnifi cent job in documenting the Everest region, there were a few inaccuracies. In the GOOGLING Google Street View of the Hillary Step, the GPS lag still places it on the South Face of Everest instead of the SE Ridge. Such issues are mostly present EVEREST in street views which appear narrower and aren’t evident in panoramas of the mountains. rofessional mountaineers and trekking Google’s Street View of the Everest Trek is enthusiasts from all over the globe have probably the best thing that happened to Nepal’s Pbeen fl ocking to the Himalaya for years, but adventure tourism brand since the Imax fi lm now for the fi rst time people can experience the in 1997. The site is an experience in itself, and Everest Base Camp Trek from the comfort of their much more immersive than photographs in a homes. guidebook. Rather than replacing real trekkers Google’s Street View has introduced a virtual with virtual trekkers, it will probably bolster tour of the Everest region, allowing viewers to the popularity of Nepal’s most famous navigate through rugged terrain around the Apart from the usual popular sites from but the site can be an excellent primer for those destination. world’s highest mountain. Lukla to Everest Base Camp, the Street View who are planning the trek. In collaboration with Kathmandu-based start- captured images from Apa Sherpa’s hometown Not only do these high defi nition panoramas Yantrick’s Verdict: Nothing can beat the up Story Cycle and 21-time Everest summiteer of Thame and high altitude communities at the stir wanderlust amongst us who have rarely real thing, but Google’ Street View of Apa Sherpa, a Google team of backpackers and base of Mt Everest such as Phortse, Dingboche visited the Himalaya, but they also educate us the Everest region can be an excellent photographers trekked 100 horizontal and 2.5 and Lobuche. about the diffi culties faced by the communities primer for those who are planning the vertical km from Lukla to Everest Base Camp and Scrolling through a slideshow of 360-degree living in the region. The aftermath of last year’s trek. captured more than 45,000 panoramic images views of various areas, visitors to the site get the avalanche on Everest, which killed 16 Nepali along the way. The team used two single-lens chance to experience the Everest region from high altitude workers, is one of many tragedies nepalitimes.com tripod cameras and a 15-lens custom-built the trekkers’ point of view, minus the strenuous that have highlighted the region’s precarious Climb to Everest Base Camp ‘Trekker’ unit. walk. Of course, nothing can beat the real thing, dependence on adventure tourism. 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 NATION 15
approximately 1,000 criminal cases from the conflict period pending in the court system and Justice in transition the District Police Office. Advocate Raman Kumar Shrestha says the verdict will impact on the constitution drafting process since it will open all cases which are currently closed due to the absence of a TRC. As PM, he recent decision by Baburam Bhattarai made history the Supreme Court that in 2012 by withdrawing nearly Tthe existing Truth and PEACE 200 cases involving 1,700 Reconciliation Bill did not meet people, according to the Ministry international standards for human BUILDING of Law. Now, all these cases can rights and justice has sent shock be re-opened, and that is why the waves through the establishment. The Maoists Maoists are against the verdict. Another fallout of the SC react badly to the verdict is that it has brought Supreme Court the two factions of the Maoists verdict rejecting closer together, with talks of amnesty reunification opening despite LEGALESE their serious differences. This provisions in the is so that they can pool their Binita Dahal combined strength to oppose BIKRAM RAI TRC Act the Supreme Court verdict. This The two former warring opens up the question about sides are now part of the state, When the members of the told me last week. the Ministry of Law as cited in what the real reasons were and they are on the same side newly formed TRC went to meet The Supreme Court has struck the Act. The Supreme Court has behind the split in the Maoists when it comes to evading being the UCPN(M) Chairman Pushpa down provisions in the TRC Act thus taken out the involvement of if they have a common stance answerable to wartime crimes. Kamal Dahal, he directly rejected that gave the Commission the the government. on war crimes. Maoists of all Predictably, the UCPN(M) and any move to resolve conflict-era right to recommend amnesty to Victims consent is required factions and some sections of the the CPN-M are the least happy cases through the TRC for which cases of serious human rights for both reconciliation and ruling NC-UML combine would with the verdict of the apex court. he only wants a limited mandate. violations, and declared that no amnesty. One of the main like to see all conflict-era cases In fact, the latest collapse of the According to the Supreme amnesty can be given without the dissatisfaction among victims to be resolved through a political negotiations over the constitution Court verdict, the TRC cannot consent of victims. was the provision in the Act understanding and not through and the announcement of a investigate already pending cases The latest verdict has cleared which gave the TRC the authority the judiciary. series of strikes next month in the courts and it cannot ask the three points: to grant amnesty. The SC verdict It is rare for the Supreme by the Maoist-led opposition government to withdraw cases The TRC has no right to see has ruled out the TRC’s role in Court to review a verdict of alliance is an attempt to show this and recommend for amnesty as and investigate the cases which general amnesty. the special bench, even when displeasure. well. are already pending in the court Even if the Maoists urge the government agrees to file a They argue that wartime “We were confused initially system. the ruling parties to review review petition. This means the excesses should be under the about the parallel jurisdiction of Conflict era cases will be the court’s verdict it is not Maoists will try to put pressure jurisdiction of a future TRC, and the court and TRC but now it is investigated by the TRC, but if easy for them to file a review on the government by obstructing asked for a repeal of the verdict. clear that the already pending it decides that the case must be petition. Previous SC verdicts talks on the constitution and They and the other parties want cases can only be solved by filed in the courts then it will have also ruled out political through street protests to try to the TRC to just be a dispenser of a court, not the Commission,” recommend this directly to the interference in the transitional overturn the verdict. amnesties and pardons. TRC Chair Surya Kiran Gurung Attorney General and not through justice mechanism. There are @binitadahal 16 NATION 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750
PIPED WATER STILL A PIPE DREAM Fifteen years behind schedule, the Melamchi Project to supply water to Kathmandu Valley is likely to be further delayed
KENJI KWOK that is already behind by 15 years. The $317.3 million project is being supported by the Asian Development Bank (ADB), hen the Italian firm JICA and the OPEC Fund. ADB Cooperativa Muratori president Takehiko Nakao told us WCementisti (CMC) Di during a visit to Nepal last month Ravenna signed an agreement that Melamchi was a priority with Melamchi Water Supply project for both the ADB and the Development Board (MWSDB) Nepal government, and that he nearly two years ago, there was confident the project would was a glimmer of hope that the be completed by September 2016. Melamchi Project could finally But the average daily bring water to the parched capital excavation progress was only against the Italian contractor water in the mains is presently know where the pipes are,” said by September next year. 25m/day in January, even though is contemplated unless it lost due to leakage from ageing Gyawali, a former Minister of But less than half the 27km CMC says it can increase that to misses the deadline. Although pipes or pilferage. He added Water Resources. The Kathmandu tunnel (pic, top) to bring glacial 30m/day from March. This still local obstruction and political that the problem is not so much Valley Water Limited (KUKL) is melt from the Langtang National falls short of the target of 34m/ interference in the past delayed the scarcity of water, but bad digging up the roads revamping Park to Kathmandu is finished, day if the project is to meet its the project, Bhattarai says that is water management and wasteful the mains, but pricing and and there doesn’t seem to be any deadline. not the case anymore. distribution. distribution of piped water may sense of urgency in expediting the MWSDB Executive Director Water expert Dipak Gyawali “Assuming that water from still be a pipe dream. work. The people of Kathmandu Ghanashyam Bhattarai admitted of the Nepal Water Conservation Melamchi finally comes, who Kathmandu Valley’s 2.5 Valley may have to settle for yet that the project is behind Foundation said studies have is going to distribute it? There million people are preparing for another familiar delay of a project schedule, but says no action shown that 70 per cent of the are no maps, people don’t even another dry season, and try to Going with the flow
UZABI BAIDAR
y most international standards Kathmandu should be considered uninhabitable because the city of 2.5 Bmillion has few functioning water mains. But one of the reasons the city hasn’t been abandoned is that its 400- year-old Malla-era water mains are still functioning. Kathmandu residents have learnt to improvise: they pump ground water, buy water from tankers or increasingly, collect rainwater. But the mainstay of water supply for inner city Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur are still the heritage taps built by the Malla kings. UZABI BAIDAR Even though many of these historic water taps have KENJI KWOK gone dry because of the destruction of feeder channels, they Of the nearly 60 neighbourhood water spouts in Patan, “Source degradation is the main problem in restoring are still the mainstay for water supply in most inner city many have gone dry due to encroachment of ponds that the ancient water systems in Patan,” said Rohit Ranjitkar of neighbourhoods. As the dry season begins, it is a common used to recharge the aquifers, or the foundations of new the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust. Locals say the sight to see long lines of jars waiting to be filled from the houses destroying the network of underground canals that restored stone spouts still suffer water-logging and garbage trickle that still comes out of these ingenious systems. brought water to the spouts. problems. 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 NATION 17
KENJI KWOK make do the best they can with the Jyapu Samaj in Patan said: afford to buy water regularly, water from ancient water spouts “Over the years, a lot of people there is no other choice but and wells, and buying expensive have moved to settle down in to harvest rainwater, or wait water from tankers. Traditional Kathmandu Valley, buy land and hours for their turn to fill jars at stone spouts, which have served drill wells everywhere, so the traditional water spouts. the needs of the people of Nepal water table has fallen and there Says Maharjan, who also owns for centuries, are under pressure isn’t enough water.” Lalit Heritage Home guesthouse: from heavy demand, lack of Guesthouses buy water from “Melamchi is the only hope, maintenance and the destruction private water suppliers, where but we have been hearing about of aquifers. (See story, below) prices have gone up due to higher Melamchi water for 20 years now. Santa Man Maharjan, 48, of demand. For locals who can’t It’s just a dream.”
There is also an effort to revive the 11.2 km Pipes were pushed into the spout up to 500m royal water main constructed by Malla kings 300 and dye released in the ponds to try to identify years ago from Tika Bhairab to Patan Darbar. The the sources of the water. The aquifer feeding the 1.5m wide canal used to provide irrigation water Nagahiti was thus traced to the Swangchiba pond along the way, and fed a network of underground on the town’s outskirts. aqueducts that fed water spouts. After the source was detected, the actual The recent restoration of the Nagahiti water restoration and cleaning of the canal began. Today, spout at Nagbahal in Patan (pic, left) is proof that there is plentiful clean water flowing out of the with determination and teamwork it is possible to spout, even in the dry season. bring back the lost glory of the Valley’s hydraulic While current demand for water in Kathmandu civilisation, while at the same time augment its is 230 million litres per day, the water pipes laid modern urban water supply system. down during the Rana period from Sundari Jal Nagahiti used to be often dry, and when water and Pharping supply only 50 million litres, and did flow it was contaminated. Then, 12 years the system is so leaky that an estimated 75 million ago the local group Alliance for Eco-tourism in litres a day is lost. collaboration with American Ambassador Fund Says Joshi: “The restoration of Nagahiti for Cultural Preservation got to work to restore the provides an important lesson for the revival of system. other water spouts in the Valley. It proved that “We started with first trying to document where you have to understand and identify the ancient the inlet and outlets were, map the canals and find engineering systems that made them possible.” ways to clean them,” explained Jharana Joshi of the Alliance for Eco-tourism. She said the main challenge was mapping the nepalitimes.com underground canals feeding the stone spout, many Reviving Patan’s royal canals, #273 Private water for the public, #620 of which are located below residential buildings. 18 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 Fake doctor out on bail Centre for Investigative Journalism Nepal, 19 March only used during the occasional medical camps and Lama was found selling donated medicines at steep prices to local patients. The hospital had an annual Almost six months after the Kathmandu District budget of almost $90,000 until funding was stopped Court ordered the arrest of Yeshe Lodoe Lama in late 2012 after Citta discovered that Lama was not in connection to the financial irregularities and even a real doctor. mismanagement of funds at the Citta Hospital Daube is disappointed about Yeshe Lama’s release in Humla, the Supreme Court released him on a despite overwhelming evidence, but said he is not Rs 1 million bail on 4 March. ready to give up someone who stole money meant for The decision was made by a joint bench led by Nepal’s most disadvantaged people. “Since Yeshe is Chief Justice Ram Kumar Prasad Shah himself and out on bail, the case will apparently continue and be Justice Jagdish Sharma Poudel. Lama, whose medical investigated further,” Daube said in an email. “That is certificate was found to be the good news, I guess. With fake (seen, right, examining respect to the law, we Constituent Assembly Leaving Certifi cate a patient) was in judicial intend to do the necessary custody since September and again defend the case at Rajesh KC in setopati.com, 19 March 2014 after the Kathmandu district level.” CDO found him guilty of Citta USA supported QUOTE OF THE WEEK
embezzlement of charity Lama to start Citta Medical
funds, and that documents Centre in 2004 for accessible he had submitted about the and quality health care for I am not well. Unless someone shoots me“ dead hospital were fraudulent. people in one of the poorest “ I, Oli, will not endorse the politics of federalism Lama went to the Supreme districts of Nepal.After based on communalism ethnicity. Court after Patan Appellate fraudulent documents about Court on 31 October upheld the hospital’s financial CPN-UML Chair KP Oli in Annapurna Post, 19 March Kathmandu District Court’s records surfaced, Citta USA decision to keep him in has been in a legal battle judicial custody. against Lama for the past In February 2013, artist Michael Daube, executive three years to get the hospital back. The hospital is director of Citta USA, which supported the hospital currently closed, pending investigation. Nepali in leukemia discovery in Humla lodged a complaint against Lama at the Since the apex court granted Lama the bail, legal district administration office in Kathmandu for experts watching the case closely fear it could indicate misappropriation of funds. Although Lama submitted the upcoming hearings at the lower district court himalkhabar.com, 15 March audit reports, Daube says they were neither timely nor handing out a lenient sentence to Lama. transparent. The land for the sprawling complex that Said Daube: “Seems like Yeshe Lodoe Lama is A Nepali PhD student Sewa Rijal is houses 15-bed hospital equipped with an operation trying to buy time, my only hope is that the law will among a team of researchers from theatre and special emergency wards was bought in be followed properly and due diligence will be done to Monash University in Melbourne, which his father, Tsering Lama’s name. see he is put in jail and health care can finally flourish discovered a gene in leukemia patients The facilities at the Citta Hospital in Humla were for that impoverished region.” that causes resistance to chemotherapy. The discovery of the INPP4B gene was based on Rijal’s PhD thesis. Rijal did her A levels in Budhanilkantha School before moving to Australia for higher studies. Himal Khabarpatrika interviewed Rijal by email:
Himal Khabarpatrika: How did Do you plan on coming back to Nepal? you feel when the leukemia gene I do plan to return to Nepal when I have was discovered? enough experience to initiate cancer research Sewa Rijal: This finding was not in the country. I would like to establish a something that was discovered overnight, research center where we can have access to it took five years of hard work from the cancer tissue samples from hospitals around entire research team at Monash. The the valley and scientific equipment to carry feeling that you have contributed to out the research. I think this will require knowledge in the field of cancer such as international collaboration with a university leukemia gives one a lot of satisfaction. that is well-known for cancer research, such as Monash. How does the discovery of the protein help the leukemia What are the major challenges you patients? foresee? This protein can be a novel biomarker of It would have to be funding. Hopefully the disease, guide treatment options and the government can contribute to medical help avoid the unnecessary toxicity that research as in most developed countries. comes with chemotherapy. Our current We can also get funding from international work is focused on understanding how sources and charities. this protein works to cause resistance to chemotherapy. If we understand this, we Who do you attribute your success to? can target the protein and the pathway My parents have always encouraged me to that it involves to cause pathogenesis, pursue higher education and I would like my which can help treat acute myeloid story to be an inspiration to girls in Nepal to leukemia more effectively. pursue higher education and lead the way.
Suicides in the US
Umakanta Rimal in BBC Nepali, 17 March
Madan Kandel and Bal Bahadur Khulal, were among the 81,000 refugees from Bhutan who were resettled in the United States under an international program, who committed suicide. According to Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the prevalence of Bhutanese refugees committing suicide is almost double compared to that of other communities. The average rate of suicide in the United States is 12 per 100,000, but the rate among Bhutanese is 27. Kandel had a wife and a 17-day-old child. Bhutanese refugees say that individuals of all ages are committing suicide. Bidhyapati Mishra, a journalist who is resettled in North Carolina, says that loneliness, unemployment, language barrier and low economic status are the main reasons behind these unfortunate incidents. Deepesh Das Shrestha of United Nationas High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) says, “We are working with other agencies in the US to try to find a way to reduce the number of suicides.” Bhutanese refugees in Nepal say that provided with a better living environment and proper counselling, the number can be brought down. We believe that knowledge is the starting point to generate a conversation. DESTINATION This monthly knowledge series has been initiated in order to raise important questions and stimulate debate within Nepal’s tourism industry. It is hoped that structuring the conversation based on new knowledge and developing an open platform to share ideas will lead to action, positive
siddharthinc works to build a sustainable future growth and impact in both the public and private sector. NEPAL www.siddharthinc.com 20 - 26 MARCH 2015
Can Nepal attract half a million pilgrims by 2024? ‘Ne-pal’ implies keepers (pala) of the abode of the gods (ne). Can we live up to the name to turn our country into the cradle of eastern spirituality?
Where are Nepal’s other sacred sites? Mt. Kailash (China) What are Muktinath available services for thousands of pilgrims Average yearly growth Pashupati like me? in pilgrims from Boudha 2000 to 2013 21% KATHMANDU Lumbini Average yearly growth in Janakpur trekkers from 2000 to 2013 3% Swayambhu
2024 2,147,000 National target for total tourists 201,818 Pilgrims 9.4% of total tourists 2012 582,925 2013 Pilgrims 21% average yearly 803,092 growth from 2013 797,616 Total Tourists Total Tourists 141,193 Trekkers and Mountaineers 71,610 109,854 3% of average yearly growth since 2013 Total Pilgrims Total Pilgrims 105,015 102,001 Trekkers and Mountaineers Trekkers and Mountaineers
MOST PILGRIMS MOST PILGRIMS FROM FROM INDIA INDIA MYANMAR MALAYSIA INFOGRAPHIC: KIRAN MAHARJAN SRI LANKA SRI LANKA THAILAND THAILAND S KOREA USA
Source: Nepal Tourism Statistics, 2012 Source: Nepal Tourism Statistics, 2013
NARENDRA MODI WU CHUNTAI
Prime Minister of India Chinese Ambassador to Nepal
You have 1.25 billion neighbours who some day or the other want to bow We hope to bring half a million Chinese “ “ their heads at Pashupatinath or want to come to Lord Buddha and“ receive his “tourists to Nepal by the end of my tenure. message of peace. Why can’t Nepal’s tourism sector develop in such a way so
that massive numbers of tourists from India may visit Nepal? Look out for our publication next month on infrastructure in Nepal. 20 TOURISM 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 Pilgrims: High volume Low spending? Others Many pilgrims from 17.9 Average Length of Stay in days predominantly Buddhist 33.1 countries enter Nepal by land. Pilgrims from Sri Lanka, Indians (2013) Thailand and Myanmar 1.9 Sri Lankans (2012) accounted for almost 58% of all pilgrims in 2012; while more Thais (2012) than 90% of tourists from those % of total pilgrims 3 countries entered Nepal via Myanmarese (2012) land. Tourists from these three countries were also among the shortest stayers in Nepal; they 2013 stayed for a combined average of % of Tourist Arrival by land (2012) less than 6 days. In comparison, almost all Indian tourists in 2012, including pilgrims, entered Nepal via air (All data doesn’t 0.1 97.1 83.9 seem accounted for). These 19.3 1.8 Indian tourists also stayed for longer, an average of 9.34 days. 26.1 91.1 27.0
Source: Nepal Tourism Statistics 2012, 2013
Where else after Spiritualism or trekking? Lumbini or Pashupatinath? Pilgrims seem to Tourist arrivals in 2012 Trekking and Mountaineering Pilgrimage Spiritual come during the off- (Tourist arrival as % of total) (Tourist arrival as % of total) travellers may seasons for trekkers and visit Rinpocche mountaineers. Enough 40 learning spiritual tourists may centres such help smoothen the 30 as the Asura seasonality in the tourism Cave Temple industry. Yet, trekkers 20 in Pharping, and mountaineers may the Kopan also be interested in 10 Monastary in Kapan, Lawudo Gompa retreat center in Solu spirituality. More people Khumbu, or the Rangjung Yeshe Institute in Boudanath. (excluding Nepalis and 0 Indians) visited Lumbini Travellers may also consider visiting hidden jewels such and Pashupatinath July May June as the Khaptad Ashram in Khaptad, Halesi Mahadev templearea than total April March August
temple in Khotang, or Pathibhara Devi in Taplejung. January pilgrims for 2012 and October February December
2013 (look below). November September
The graph for 2013 has higher peaks for April, June and October Source: Nepal Tourism Statistics 2012
2012 2013 Most visited sites globally by pilgrims per annum Yoga tourism for Meditative experiences are (Alliance for Religions and Conservation, 2011): very attractive to spiritual Total Pilgrims 109,854 71,610 spiritual trekkers tourists. They may opt for 1 Ayyappan Saranam, India (Hindu) – 30 million relaxing experiences in 2 Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico (Christian) – 20 million Visitors to Pashupatinath Dhamma Pokhara’s Vipassana 3 Amritsar, India (Sikh) – 13 million (excluding Indians) 139,885 156,858 center, the Nepal Vipassana 4 Hindu Mela, India (Hindu) – 10 million Centre in Dharmashringa, 5 Tirupati, India (Hindu) – 10 million or the Osho Tapoban. Some 6 Arba’een, Karbala, Iraq (Islam) – 10 million Visitors to Lumbini entrepreneurs have also 7 Lourdes (Christian) – 8 million (excluding indians) 136,067 125,496 begun to promote ideas of 8 Basilica of the National Shrine of our Yoga treksin Nepal. Tourists Lady of Aparecida, Brazil (Christian) – 6.6 million Visitors to Lumbini may trek to off-the-beat 9 Western Wall in 2009 (Jewish) – 8 million (excluding top 5 32,163 56,771 spiritual sites in packages that 10 Dwarka, India (Hindu) – 5 million emphasize trekking as much pilgrim countries) as yoga.
Source: Nepal Tourism Statistics 2012, 2013 If we are to attract millions of Hindu and Buddhist tourists to Nepal we must remember what Burmese UN Secretary-General U Thant said about Lumbini in 1970. It is also applicable to other religious sites in Nepal: A piece of the global religious tourism pie
UNWTO estimates that 300-330 million tourists visit the world’s key religious sites each year. Global numbers of “May I express my sincere hope that (both)
Hindu pilgrims alone are massive Ayappan Saranam, Hindu Mela, Tirupati, and Dwarka in India together attract interested governments, individuals and private 55 million tourists annually. groups will make generous contributions in“ cash While numbers for Buddhist pilgrims are not available, we do know there are about 488 million Buddhists or kind to help in the implementation of what I worldwide. The five countries with the largest number of Buddhists are China, Thailand, Japan, Myanmar and consider to be a most worthy project. Sri Lanka. Globally, Buddhists are older, with median age of 34, than the overall population, with median age 28 (PEW, Global Religious Landscape 2012). From speech at the International Committee for the Development of Lumbini in 1970 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 OPINION 21 The Consensus Ruse The Maoist definition of consensus: ‘Do what we say or we’ll start another war and wreck the country all over again’
he hot word in politics, as suggestions and criticism in repetition of the term like some the constitution continues public spaces. This brief period mystical chant while doggedly Tto never get written, of liberalisation was followed by refusing to compromise has The is ‘consensus’. It is mouthed a harsh crackdown that jailed and Hand suspecting a ruse. by everyone from the PM to executed thousands who dared to What seems to escape those opposition leaders, and acted upon speak out. The Great Helmsman stalking the corridors of power by no one. It’s a word nobody can remarked at the time he had is that the election itself gave argue with, or explain, especially ‘enticed the snakes out of their a mandate to the parties that since it’s attained an almost caves’ to destroy them. Pol Pot of got the most votes to write the mythical status, inexplicably Cambodia developed a uniquely damn thing and move on. The elusive and always just beyond effective approach to reaching fact that a party that received reach. The country’s fate hangs consensus by simply murdering only 15 per cent of the popular millions who didn’t agree. vote continues to hold the entire
Until our local Maoists were DIWAKAR CHETTRI country hostage is an insult to decimated in the election, it’s the democratic process. The worth noting, the word that is voters already decided who they now their holy mantra never trust to complete the writing, crossed their lips. As omniscient and it isn’t the Maoists. ideologues, they know better than OK, maybe trust isn’t MOVING TARGET class enemies and feudals that exactly the right word, but the Foreign Hand the only consensus ever sought real reason the Maoists won’t from the people was in paying High Level Cabal of Brahmins country all over again.’ allow the constitution to be in the balance, teetering between extortion money demanded by conniving behind closed doors. The mere suggestion of putting completed has little to do with a utopia and apocalypse, and unless the party. Even now, the Maoist It’s clear their interpretation of contentious issues to a vote has lack of consensus. It is because the bickering parties magically version of consensual politics has their favourite word is ‘agree with the Maoists threatening violence, elections will follow and conjure something up, we’re all nothing to do with consulting us and do what we say or we’ll exposing their disdain for nothing terrifies them more than doomed to seek consensus forever. CA members or the people and make your life intolerable, start democracy and the very consensus facing humiliation again at the Perhaps another buffet lunch everything to do with a select another civil war and wreck the they keep whining about. This polls. at a 5-star hotel will solve the deadlock that has defied countless gourmet feasts, but whether any of the various players actually believes in the concept is highly doubtful. Consensus requires compromise. Typically those who cry loudest for consensus are those least willing to compromise. A recent article detailing a conversation with Maoist ideologue and ex-PM Baburam Bhattarai mentions ‘consensus’ a dozen times without ever explaining how to achieve it or the meaning of the word for him and his party. Maybe that is because it means nothing. This obsession is simply the latest stalling mechanism in a long line of ploys, including shoe throwing and chair smashing, used to block the constitution. The very purpose of the Constitutional Assembly has degenerated from its original mission to something akin to the ethos of the ruling class -- do as little as possible while hanging on to your chair (when not smashing it). The constitutional process has been subverted so often it’s obvious the only goal of this assembly, at least for the Maoist and Madhesi opposition, is self- perpetuation. Even when these parties held power under two PMs progress on the drafting was clumsily obstructed at every stage. Perhaps if consensus is repeated often enough it will suddenly come true, like in the fairy tales. That dovetails nicely with Mao’s famous quote that if you repeat a lie 1,000 times it becomes the truth. The Maoist party is desperately trying to position itself as the consensus seeking party, despite the fact they never sought such a thing in areas they controlled during the war or when forming national governments. In fact, dissent and differing opinions were systematically repressed and compromised, that key ingredient to consensus, was despised as a bourgeois weakness. A history of Maoism and Consensus would be a strong contender for the title of the Shortest Book in the World. Mao Zedong’s one shot at it, his ‘Let 100 Flowers Bloom’ campaign, encouraged the people to post 22 BACK SIDE 20 - 26 MARCH 2015 #750 www.nepalitimes.com www.nepalitimes.com
K P Oily changed his profile picture. BRB Trying to be another Jang Bahadur, or what, K P Oily? 1 hr . Kathmandu . Facing-saving on FB 24 mins . Like Jang Bahadur Ke vanxa yo BRB? 38 mins . Like JN Missed being with you guyz. Looks like you had lots of fun. 39 mins . Likes 3 Ranjit Rae Why not picking up your fone? Let’s do lunch. 45 mins . Like
Kiran Kaka posted on Twitter 1 hrs . Like #IAF plane at #KTM to pull out Turkish jet is a violation of Leftist God, Unfed Marxist and 136 others like this. #Nepal’s air space and sovereignty #BuddhaWasBornInNepal Like . Comment. Share #MtEverestIsInNepal Makuney What’s with the personality cult, Comrade? Like . Comment. Share 1 hr . Like 3 PKD K6 kamred, milne hoina bhanya? K P Oily My, my someone is a jealous cat 20 mins . Like 14 mins . Like Pasang Down with Indian expansionism, let’s dig tunnels again. Bidya Madam Handsome lag6 ni 25 mins . Like 10 mins . Like UPENDRA LAMICHANE Bigplop Where are our anti-aircraft batteries when we need them? PKD Great party! Sorry to leave without eating, got urgent call. 45 mins . Like It’s time Nepal’s politicians got on Facebook like 4.5 8 mins . Like million other fellow-citizens. At least it would make up Vladimir Ilyich Hey, how come you don’t have my picture on your wall? Kiran Kaka and PKD are now friends. for the fact that they can’t face the people face-to-face. 6 mins . Like However, it may be a good thing they don’t have a status Joe Stalin Yeah, you don’t have me either. because if they did their timelines would literally drive 5 mins . Like SuKo shared Name Bang’s photo. The Ass up its wall with posts like these: 2 hrs . Let’s combine the 12-point, 9-point and 5-point agreements and do a 25-point agreement.
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Brave Lion Kam 6aina? 13 mins . Like Lord Ram La-La 66 20 mins . Like Manoj Gajurel ROFL. Kati hasnu. 25 mins . Like PKD Only if you promise I get to be Executive President 50 mins . PKD likes this comment Gyancha Whoa...Suko can count 52 mins . Like
President Ram Baran Yadav shared a photo. 3 hrs . OK, if you can’t reach a consensus, let’s have a football match and whoever wins gets to write the constitution.
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Name Bang Ani draw bho bhane prakriya ma jane hai ta? 20 mins . Likes 12
His Holiness Comrade Lyar Khyal shared PKD‘s photo. 1 hrs . Humbled and honoured to join the Cash Maoists #FeelingBlessed #respect
The Ass Like . Comment. Share The Ass and 3,567 others like this
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