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Making mischief with the nose-in-the-air notion of fashion as art, delivered a powerful Chanel collection surrounded by paintings and sculptures of his own invention. “The idea came from people who overreact to art today,” said Lagerfeld. “It’s all become a little too much.” The designer conceptualized 75 pieces of art, often riffs on Chanel iconography, and turned his Grand Palais runway into a giant gallery. The impressive theme carried into the wonderfully SPRING 2014 colorful clothes, based on vintage paint-swatch cards. For more from PARIS COLLECTIONS Paris, see pages 4 to 7.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2013 WWD.COM Joe’s Hudson Buy Said Completed THE BRIEFING BOX ment on reports of the deal’s completion. Both IN TODAY’S WWD By ARNOLD J. KARR firms are based in City of Industry, Calif. When disclosed in July, the approximately JOE’S JEANS INC.’S acquisition of fellow premium $80 million in loan financing needed for the deal denim brand Hudson Jeans for $97.6 million has was expected to be provided by CIT Group and Backstage at the been consummated. Goldman Sachs. However, Goldman dropped out Valentino show. For Completion of the final details stretched hours during negotiations to structure the arrangement, more from Paris after the Monday deadline, sources told WWD, with the second leg of financing ultimately provided Fashion Week, culminating in the signing of the final purchase by Garrison Loan Agency Services LLC. see WWD.com. agreement Tuesday afternoon, and were essen- Hudson was founded by Kim in 2002 and carved tially identical to those reported out a niche for premium denim by WWD last week. Confirmation with a British accent. Reebok of the purchase is expected to be International founder and for- released by Joe’s today. mer ceo Paul Fireman formed Joe’s acquired all the assets of $97.6M Fireman Capital in 2008 and, Hudson Clothing Holdings Inc. for with Webster Capital, acquired

a combination of cash and $24.1 PRICE JOE’S JEANS INC. PAID TO a controlling interest in Hudson ACHARD million in convertible notes from ACQUIRE HUDSON JEANS. the following year. It had report- Peter Kim and Fireman Capital edly sought an exit strategy for its

Partners. Kim will continue with investment since 2011, although DELPHINE Hudson as its chief executive officer and join the Kim’s continued involvement with the brand had BY board of Joe’s. In addition to cash, the selling par- been expected in virtually all reports that circulat- PHOTO ties will receive notes that will bear interest at 10 ed about a possible sale. Webster’s stake had been percent a year, in Kim’s case, and 6.5 percent a rolled into Fireman’s prior to the deal. year, in Fireman’s, and can be converted to up to The acquisition was disclosed by Joe’s on July Joe’s Jeans Inc.’s acquisition of Hudson Jeans for $97.6 19.1 million shares of Joe’s stock beginning two 15 and was originally expected to close by Sept. 1. million has been consummated, sources said. Page 2 years after the deal is concluded. After failing to meet the Sept. 15 deadline estab- Marc Crossman, ceo of Joe’s, declined to com- lished by the parties, a Sept. 30 deadline was set. Uniqlo is adding four stores in the San Francisco Bay Area by November. Page 2

The U.S. government shutdown threatened to impede ongoing Uniqlo Expands Footprint in Bay Area trade negotiations, delay trade enforcement cases and impact regulatory issues important to the fashion industry. Page 8

By RACHEL BROWN Inc. has partnered with Christy Turlington Burns to create a public service announcement designed to UNIQLO is multiplying in the broaden awareness of Every Mother Counts. Page 9 San Francisco Bay Area. After opening a flagship on Retailers in Nairobi, Kenya, believe luxury retailing will Powell Street in San Francisco a continue to grow despite the mall attack last week. Page 9 year ago, the Japanese retailer is adding four stores in the region Iguatemi Ribeirão Preto, a 475,000-square-foot mall in by November. The new Northern northeastern Brazil, has opened. Page 9 California stores are in Hillsdale Shopping Center in San Mateo, Katy Perry, Rita Ora and Kate Upton were among the crowd Stonestown Galleria Mall in at Karl Lagerfeld’s runway show for Chanel. Page 10 San Francisco, Westfield Valley Fair Mall in Santa Clara and Yves Saint Laurent has severed ties with Colette because the mixed-use development Bay Street Emeryville in Emeryville. the store sold T-shirts bearing the “Ain’t Laurent Without “The strategy of the company Yves” slogan. Page 11 has been to open flagships and A host of Supreme Court justices attended the Kennedy then expand in proximity to Uniqlo is making a push in Northern California. those flagships,” explained Larry Center’s Symphony Ball on Sunday. Page 12 Meyer, chief operating officer of Uniqlo’s U.S. business and a se- The Powell Street and Asia, not the U.S., has been The resuscitation of Domino will finally take place on nior vice president at its Tokyo- Westfield Garden State Plaza the primary driver of Uniqlo’s Thursday with the unveiling of an e-commerce Web site, a based parent Fast Retailing Co. flagships are 29,000 square feet international business. Net sales print quarterly and a story in The New York Times. Page 12 Ltd. “Our goal as a company is and 43,000 square feet, respec- in its international business for to be part of America and so we tively, while Meyer said smaller the nine months ended in May Iconix Brand Group Inc. is taking the Buffalo David want to use the presence of those locations in malls are gener- increased 56.1 percent to 191.3 Bitton brand viral with documentaries by hip-hop artists first flagships to be known. Then, ally around 10,000 square feet. billion yen, or $2.18 billion at av- Macklemore & Ryan Lewis. Page 12 when commuters go home or peo- Uniqlo has distribution centers erage exchange rates for the pe- ple shop on the weekends, they in Northern California and New riod. The company had 410 stores ON WWD.COM can go to malls or to various cen- Jersey to service its stores. “We abroad, a number that climbed to ters, where we want to become will determine exactly where we 466 by August. In contrast, Uniqlo RUNWAY: WWD went behind the scenes at Paris Fashion their store of choice.” can locate based on the fact that Japan saw a nine-month sales Week. For more, see WWD.com. Meyer described Uniqlo USA we have warehouses for collec- increase of 7.6 percent to 541.6 as “happy with the sales” at the tion and storage facilities,” he billion yen, or $6.17 billion. For CORRECTION Powell Street flagship and, in its fi- said. “They are very important the full year, Fast Retailing pre- nancial report for the nine months because we like to ensure we are dicted sales for Uniqlo’s inter- The name of John Bricker, principal and creative director of the ending last May, Fast Retailing always in stock in the stores.” national division would rise 52.8 Gensler architecture and design firm, was misspelled in a story on stated that the store, as well as Next year, Meyer has forecast percent and operating income page 20 of the El Palacio de Hierro WWD Milestone that ran Monday. Uniqlo’s location at Westfield that Uniqlo will add 20 or more would jump 81.8 percent. Garden State Plaza in Paramus, stores in the U.S. “We will con- In the U.S., Uniqlo is just get- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. N.J., “continue to generate favor- tinue our expansion in 2014 at ting off the ground and has reg- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. able sales.” “San Francisco is a a pace similar to what we have istered operating losses. The COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. great market with both a strong done this year,” he said, adding, company had anticipated reduc- VOLUME 206, NO. 68. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two local population and a high tourist “Our plan is to start moving to ing those operating losses during additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance population,” said Meyer. expand to other markets over the the second half of its fiscal year Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, The San Francisco and New next few years, and the specifics 2013 from March through August. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. 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In October Uniqlo’s retail radar. “Southern to poor weather and weaker Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or and November, the retailer has California is a very important sales than expected at its three inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine six openings slated for the New market to us, and it is a prior- New York flagships. is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. York region with stores in the ity market to us,” said Meyer. Moving forward with retail in You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. 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where brands and retailers do business jooraccess.com 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2013

SPRING 2014 PARIS COLLECTIONS Art Supply Chanel: What is art? What It started months ago as falling off onto the floor; an form following function, saw a two-paneled skirts with side is fashion? Do they make satire. “The idea came from image of Mademoiselle’s surface on which to plunk her zippers; wide-cut, paper- natural companions? Does people who overreact to art private atelier entrance; a empty juice glass. A waiter’s thin leather pants; shrunken the latter elevate itself by today. It’s all become a little Chanel No.5 Robot, and one quick action restored the work sweaters worn as multiples, association with the former? too much,” Lagerfeld said of the naughtiest, “Modern to its original state. including as a neck scarf; shoes All fodder for conversation during a preview, adding Narcissus,” a life-size, 3-D In keeping with the art with attached ribbed socks, and multiple opinions. One a quip to an imaginary nude (but for her socks) motif, Lagerfeld based his and endless surface revelry. thing on which most of us colleague. “You’re an artist lounging on an elevated lineup on vintage paint-swatch This included painterly ombré would agree — even the now? What, you don’t make Plexiglas platform. Only by cards, which meant a runway grays, lavish tweeds (and haughtiest been-there-done- dresses anymore?” Thus, looking at the mirrored floor alive with color. That was embroideries masquerading that, it-takes-a-lot-to-impress- he decided to address the beneath her would one see the about the extent of the theme as tweeds), plastic-painted me types among us — is what ever-escalating fashion- camellia placed strategically dressing, as the designer lace, raffia braiding and on and constitutes a major wow. Case art juggernaut. He started to cover her lady part. made his clothes as diverse, on. And for those ladies who in point: the tour de force conceptualizing “artwork” As is the way with most and as thrilling to look at, as crave more still, how about a Karl Lagerfeld delivered for — 75 pieces in all — turning art, it spoke differently to his “art.” The ideas came at big, matching bag? More still? Chanel, a show in which he his small-scale originals over different viewers. One piece a rapid-fire pace, except for A lone, hunky guy posing as challenged his audience’s to others to be realized on a featured a furniture series in evening, which Lagerfeld artist-in-residence intellect, imagination and huge scale (they had to fill ascending heights: a mat, a ignored completely. “The chez Chanel. emotional core, and made the Grand Palais, after all). stool and two chairs. As per red carpet is not fashion,” he Was it art? Stop it. it one big fashion party. The Some referenced Chanel its title, most saw a riff on said. “It is something else, but Lagerfeld makes dresses and communal takeaway — the obviously: interlocking Cs “The Evolution of Man.” One not fashion.” Yet there were suits. Was it artful commerce? joyful side of awe. made of pearls that were woman, an obvious acolyte of some motifs to be extracted: Do we have to ask?

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For more ImAGeS And A SlIde Show oF the Artwork, See WWD.com/ fashion-news. ni O iann g vanni O i g

D an Feugère ane PH é T S BY PHOTOS

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Alexander McQueen: It doesn’t matter what the perceived theme of a collection is Alexander McQueen Valentino when the work is amazing, as it was in the case of Sarah Burton’s spring Alexander McQueen collection. Visually the clothes imparted a clear message of “a powerful woman,” as Burton said backstage, one who seemed divined from a warrior, even, given the abundance of aggressive leather harness bras and knife- pleated red-and-black, laser-cut kilts that evolved into incredible, fierce feathered gowns evoking African tribal garb. The silver and gold helmets were a modern streamlined take on gladiator headgear, right? Not really. “They’re sort of 1920s cloche hats,” said Burton, explaining that while gorgeous ladies of war had crossed her mind, her main reference point was “Mondrian and Picasso in the early 20th century.” Lee Miller was name-checked. A straight line could be drawn from Mondrian to the red, white and black graphic patterns that lined the runway and had been hand-silkscreened onto the flocked leather of a cropped jacket with sloped shoulders and sharp kilt. Otherwise, a flapper reference versus a tribal goddess gown was in the eye of the beholder. Certainly the collection harkened back to the harder, stricter side of Alexander McQueen’s aesthetic, which Burton has eschewed in favor of the more romantic. Here, she showed she can be as incisive with the tough stuff as McQueen. The highly influential engineered patterns of Lee McQueen’s Plato’s Atlantis collection inspired Burton’s artistic graphics, which were crisp and dynamic yet retained the rich depth of hand-done technique. Blue, red and white were delivered in the boldly feminine silhouettes of strappy bra tops and flared skirts, the level of decoration escalating from beaded checker patterns to painted striped feathers to long, horsehair skirts. The details were incredible, worked with such flourish as to project strength, raw sensuality and fragility that culminated in the grand finale: two long, lean looks — one gown, one a two-piece — beaded and threaded with feathers, with more feathers still exploding from the collars, busts and waistlines.

Valentino: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli drew inspiration from the opera — more specifically, the Rome Opera — after visiting its ateliers last summer. Struck by its “traditions and techniques that are very close to the world of couture,” said Piccioli backstage, the designers decided it was the story “of Italy we want to tell.” Their spring collection was beautiful, grand and romantic, less obviously about music and the stage than elite SPRING 2014 culture and Roman heritage, a perfect foil for their fabric work and exquisite PARIS craftsmanship. COLLECTIONS Chiuri and Piccioli revisited the folkloric motifs of past collections, lavish embroideries in ornate geometries and color combinations that glowed against black tulle dresses. The signature silhouette — high-neck, long sleeves and a nipped waist — was adjusted to reflect a gladiator sensibility with short, widely pleated skirts. Similar shapes came in medallion prints and elaborate lace work, and some gowns were done in thick panels that splayed into tulle pleats. The designers have successfully carved a niche out of that chicly chaste dress shape, which remains appealing and unique in the market, for now. Gorgeous though it was, the signature is beginning to confine the collection. Bohemian extravagance was a dominant motif, worked for day in suede models’ necks. But Chiuri and Piccioli Iris van Herpen: Guests arriving at Iris between an art happening and a louche tunics with fringe details and cropped broke up the embellishment with van Herpen’s debut women’s ready-to- nightery. animal-print pants, and underscored by minimal moments. A solid black romper, wear presentation at Club Silencio on a Models dotted through the darkened the standout accessories: flat gladiator for example, and a long, sparely cut weekday afternoon could be forgiven for venue writhed hypnotically in outfits sandals and gold zodiac medallions emerald gown were a nice intermission thinking the clock had jumped forward a including a slate gray buttonless coat in that were tightly looped around the between operatic grandeur. few hours: Inside, the scene was a cross a lightweight high-gloss fabric, cagelike

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Iris van Herpen JC de Castelbajac Paul & Joe GRANET

A necklace XAVIER from the Talisman line. PHOTO BY

Louis Vuitton: A “modern-day version of Sarah Bernhardt.” That’s who Lorenz Baumer, ’s artistic director for jewelry, envisioned when designing his latest collection for the house, which he named Chain Attraction. “I had in mind an interesting, exciting and challenging woman,” he said, using those same adjectives to describe his design process. “I want women to wear the jewelry in an unexpected way...as with a simple T-shirt to the grocery store.” The collection was broken into four groups, each centered around a large pendant necklace and featuring bracelets, earrings and rings. With the Talisman line, Baumer interpreted the symbols for power, protection and luck with various stones. The centerpiece necklace was bedecked with Imperial topaz stone in an unusual reddish-pink hue. Set in front of white diamonds, the topaz cast a pink light on the diamonds. The Hologram group featured a blue tourmaline pendant that had a near-neon tint, For more reVIeWS while the standout in the Hypnose group was a AND ImAGeS, See long necklace made from extremely rare green WWD.com/ Peacock pearls with a pendant in black onyx fashion-news. and emeralds. The Attraction group featured Mandarin garnets from Burma as a faceted center stone and rare bead-cut stones that hung like GIANNONI GIOVANNI fringe from an opal-encrusted setting. It would BY indeed stop traffic at the local Stop & Shop. PHOTOS

skirts and tops woven from lacquered polo shirt; an arm and hand across leather laces, and a pony hair jacket a hemp dress had a striking trompe Delfina Delettrez: Delfina Delettrez overlaid with thick silver chains. l’oeil effect that is sure to trigger presented her delightful jewelry With guests including conversation. collection at the Almine Rech Gallery looking on, some models stood still Throughout the show, a video in the Marais district, displaying the while others touched the raised 3-D backdrop featured the designer pieces on plates suspended in air by motifs pressed into their leather in action, hand-painting pieces of high-powered magnets expelling the dresses and vests, generating musical fabric. The final look — a white gown opposite force. The idea played back notes that blended into a background bedecked with a drawing of a face and to Delettrez’s gems that were meant of throbbing electronic music. red, green and blue graffiti — made to “float” on the wearer: An ombré As Saskia de Brauw undulated on the art-meets-fashion point with pearl-set ring sat across three fingers a small stage in a sleeveless dress graphic impact. with an invisible setting; a gemstone- embroidered with glossy strips and-pearl earring appeared to be of Plexiglas layered over a long Paul & Joe: How to dress on a perfect suspended in air just below the ear. crinkled skirt, the sound appeared Paris summer day. That idea guided The designer also played with to fall in synch with her movements. Paul & Joe creative director Sophie the idea of time by creating what The moment perfectly captured van Mechaly for spring, resulting in casual looked like faceted watch faces out Herpen’s ominous, yet compelling, silhouettes that were seemingly of cut-rock quartz pieces in purple, vision of a technocentric future. effortless and chic. green and orange placed on one Mechaly cited the early Nineties side of a stark metallic bracelet; JC de Castelbajac: “Art for fashion’s work of photographers Hans Feurer other versions were featured on sake” was the spring theme at JC de and Gilles Bensimon as her main both a leather and chain-link watch. Castelbajac. That idea is always at the inspiration. The images were notable “The absence of time ensures heart of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s for their sunny, carefree attitude. that you are never too late,” design ethos in some variation, and Ditto these clothes, which reflected said Delettrez, referring to the with arty references having a moment such energy with a breezy vibe, as in a mechanic-less watches. this season, the designer’s lineup was crisp white top teamed with patched To add to the surrealistic nature more au courant than usual. jeans, and a plaid shirt shown with GRANET of the collection, cocktails and sweets He reined in his proclivity for a pink utilitarian vest and relaxed were served in makeup containers whimsy while still punctuating the cargo pants in a floral pattern. These The pearl- XAVIER — mojitos were sipped from roll-on clothes with the amusing touches for looks often had a boyish charm — set ring with lip glosses while Nutella-like mousse invisible setting.

which he’s known. A standout was a a piece or two could easily have PHOTO BY was sucked from makeup tubes. painted “kiss-and-tell” motif on a white been appropriated from a typical A-line skirt shown with a gold lamé boyfriend’s closet.

w02a006(7)a;14.indd 2 10/1/13 6:21 PM 10012013182658 8 WWD wednesday, october 2, 2013 Industry Weighs Fallout From Government Shutdown Jones Industrial Average, which gained 0.4 By KRISTI ELLIS percent, or 62.03 points, to 15,191.70. While the ramifications of the govern- WASHINGTON — Commerce and trade ment shutdown were just starting to be found themselves in the crosshairs of the felt, economists and academics were eye- U.S. government shutdown on Tuesday. ing the larger fight over the debt ceiling The move in Washington threatened and sending up warning signals about the to impede ongoing trade negotiations, impact on the economy. delay trade enforcement cases and im- IHS Global Insight chief U.S. econo- pact regulatory issues important to the mist Doug Handler and director of U.S. fashion industry, while slowing eco- financial economics Paul Edelstein said nomic growth in the fourth quarter if the the shutdown could result in a $1.6 bil- stalemate drags on. lion weekly loss to gross domestic prod- Congress failed to reach a deal on a uct and negatively shape economic new federal budget to fund the govern- growth in the fourth quarter. But they ment as the fiscal year ended at midnight stressed that the upcoming political fight on Monday. House Republicans refused over the debt ceiling and potential re- to pass a straight bill that would continue strictions on borrowing and spending is

funding, insisting instead on attaching the greater potential danger. language to defund or delay implemen- Handler and Edelstein’s analysis said, tation of President Obama’s signature President Obama spoke out about the shutdown Tuesday. “Even mere discussions about not raising health care initiative that was to go into the debt ceiling have negative economic effect on Tuesday. The Democratic-led Ap photo/ChArles DhArApAk photo by implications. They raise the perceived risk Senate rejected the House measures and sence of funding. Some of the activities Pacific Partnership with 11 countries and of doing business with the federal govern-

the resulting impasse led to the shutdown. of the two main trade agencies that gov- a separate Trans-Atlantic deal with the ment among holders of Treasury securities It is uncertain how long the impasse ern billions of dollars in trade affecting European Union. USTR Michael Froman and companies with government contracts. will drag on, but a looming fight over the the fashion industry have been curtailed. is in Europe this week in advance of a Such risk may eventually be seen in higher Oct. 17 deadline to raise the government’s Key government Web sites that provide TPP ministerial meeting in Bali next week interest rates and lower equity values.” debt ceiling could eclipse and postpone valuable information to companies look- and the second round of Trans-Atlantic They said the overall impact of the any deal on government funding, which ing to make products in the U.S. or ex- negotiations with the EU in Brussels. government shutdown or the failure to has economic experts concerned, as a port or import apparel, textiles and foot- In a note to stakeholders obtained by increase the debt’’ ceiling depends on the prolonged shutdown is expected to take wear were also shut down. WWD, USTR said: “Due to a lapse in fed- length of either the shutdown or the pe- a toll on the overall economy. Key govern- U.S. ports were open and nearly fully eral appropriations, as of Oct. 1, USTR will riod when U.S. borrowing is constrained; ment reports that act as a barometer on staffed by U.S. Customs and Border be unable to carry out normal operations.” the degree to which payments are re- how the economy is performing, such as Protection employees — a bright spot for The USTR office said it hopes the stored after the initial disruption; the the monthly employment report, interna- fashion importers, who shipped $102 bil- “lapse will be brief,” and noted that of- perception of consumers, businesses and tional trade data, retail sales and the con- lion worth of apparel and textiles to the ficials still plan to participate in upcom- holders of U.S. debt whether this is part sumer price index, could all be delayed if U.S. in the past year. ing meetings of the TPP ministers and of Washington’s business as usual or a the shutdown continues. The U.S. Trade Representative’s APEC in Bali starting Thursday and significant deterioration in the business The shutdown is affecting an esti- Office said in its contingency plan that it running through Oct. 8, as well as the environment where long-term planning mated 800,000 federal workers who have would cut its staff to 61 full-time employ- Transatlantic Trade and Investment becomes more difficult, and the long- been deemed “nonessential” and are ees from a total of 232 in the absence of Partnership, or T-TIP, negotiations with term damage caused by an undermining being furloughed as a result of the ab- funding. USTR is in talks for the Trans- the EU in Brussels Oct. 7 and 8. of confidence in the government’s ability “In the event of a prolonged lapse in to conduct its fiscal affairs to promote sta- funding, plans may change and we will bility and benefits of long-term planning. inform you accordingly,” USTR said. REGISTER BY OCTOBER 18 FOR A SPECIAL RATE Julia Hughes, president of the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, said companies are not in Even mere discussions panic mode, though the shutdown has already caused difficulties in some of about not raising the daily interactions with trade agen- cies. She said companies are hopeful the debt ceiling have the shutdown will be brief. “What is perhaps more striking this time than 17 years ago is how reliant we negative economic are on Web sites and when the govern- ment Web sites are down, it is a huge loss implications. of information that companies rely on to support their businesses,” Hughes said. — Doug HanDler anD Kevin Burke, president of the American Apparel & Footwear Paul eDelstein, iHs Association, said, “This only slows down the whole process of finishing Lindsey M. Piegza, chief economist at TPP and continuing the work to build Sterne Agee, pointed out that while the the case for T-TIP with the Europeans, last government shutdown [in 1996] last- both of which are very important trade ed three weeks, with a “minimal impact agreements,” said. “Any time you shut a to growth,” this time around the “politi- government agency, it is problematic.” cians should keep in mind that consum- The executives noted that port op- ers are increasingly sensitive to a shut- erations have not been impacted by down and political theater on Capitol the shutdown and no cargo delays Hill because the budget debate last year have been reported. The Department resulted in a very onerous’’ payroll tax in- of Homeland Security said that in its crease at the start of this year.” contingency plan 52,673 of its 59,561 Phillip Swagel, professor of interna- Customs employees will continue to tional economic policy at the University work during the shutdown. of Maryland and a former Treasury “The flow of goods off of ships will con- Department official, said he expects the tinue, but the flow of information from the shutdown to have a “modest impact” on government has ceased,” Burke said. the economy if it is just in the short term. Jonathan Gold, vice president of “If this is resolved in a week, the costs supply chain and Customs policy at will be modest,” said Swagel, adding that the National Retail Federation, said, the “dividing line” between a modest im- JANUARY 29, 2014 “The concern is not just CBP, but other pact to the economy and a more dramatic government agencies [such as the impact is one week. Consumer Product Safety Commission] “I feel like it is going to be at least a that have a stake in what comes in the few days before the shutdown ends be- ports. Even though cargo is cleared by cause the political pain has to be felt by CBP, another agency might put it on [Congressional] members who didn’t un- hold because they don’t have the re- derstand it,” Swagel said. “In the short @WWDSUMMITS / #WWDDIG / WWD.COM/SUMMITS sources to make a determination.” term, it will be very modest impact…and Gold said, however, that he had it will be a political issue more than an To attend: [email protected], 212.630.4212 not heard of any port delays from the economic issue. But if the shutdown goes To sponsor: [email protected], 212.630.4824 NRF’s member companies. beyond a week, the economic consequenc- The stock market reacted Tuesday es will start to become more important.” with a shrug. The S&P 500 Retail — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SPONSORED BY: Industry group increased 1.4 percent, or ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, VICKI M. YOUNG 11.73 points, to 858.97, outpacing the Dow AND EVAN CLARK

w02a008a;8.indd 8 10/1/13 6:32 PM 10012013183249 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2013 9 WWD.COM Calvin Klein Teams With Turlington Burns fund-raising opportunities to the brand’s global social media with the title’s editor in chief, By Karyn Monget improve the health and well-be- and retail network. Beginning Cindi Leive, at Macy’s Herald ing of girls and women through thursday, the company will Square in Manhattan on Monday. CaLVIn KLeIn InC. has part- eMC-supported programs in donate $1 to eMC for each as part of the partnership, nered with -activist the U.S., Haiti, Uganda and bra purchased on calvinklein. Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly Christy turlington Burns to cre- Indonesia. a public service an- com. next week, Calvin Klein owned subsidiary of PVH ate a multiplatform public ser- nouncement was created by will leverage its Facebook and Corp., has signed on to become vice announcement designed Calvin Klein Inc.’s in-house twitter social media platforms a sponsor of eMC’s running I to broaden awareness of the advertising agency, and will ap- with dedicated messaging to team for this year’s Ing new t

nonprofit organization every pear in more than 90 print, digi- further engage followers of the york City Marathon, which will RREN o S

Mother Counts. tal and outdoor executions with Calvin Klein brand on eMC’s be held on nov. 3. o turlington Burns, founder of an estimated media value of mission, and will also employ tom Murry, chief executive eMC, is currently featured in over $5 million. the campaign messaging in the retail win- officer of Calvin Klein Inc., said, MARI the fall advertising campaign for kicks off in the november issues dows of hundreds of freestand- “given Christy’s history and

Calvin Klein Underwear. of leading fashion magazines. ing Calvin Klein Underwear ongoing connection with the photo by the worldwide multipronged the initiative will also en- stores worldwide. house, we are pleased to work initiative for eMC will be seen gage other platforms, including turlington Burns will appear with her in this new light and An exclusive look at the public in print, outdoor and online the newly redesigned Calvin at a Calvin Klein Underwear support her and the organiza- service announcement featuring campaigns, and will include Klein U.S. e-commerce site and and glamour magazine event tion’s meaningful work.” Christy Turlington Burns.

Nairobi Retail Back to Business Ribeirão Preto Mall Opens in Brazil What is striking is that merchandise in McCartney and alexander McQueen. By andrÉ VLtCHeK the store doesn’t appear to be all “original.” By SHaron edeLSon the new center will offer Hugo “Shoes are original but bags are cop- Boss, diane von Furstenberg, naIroBI, Kenya— retailers here believe ies,” said Mary. “Most shops in Kenya are IgUateMI eMPreSa de Shopping Coach, H.Stern, tommy Hilfiger and luxury retailing will continue to grow de- like this. In nairobi, there are a few brand Centers Sa has opened Iguatemi Havaianas, among others. spite the mall attack last week by Somali ter- shops that sell original products for men, ribeirão Preto, a 475,000-square-foot Carlos Jereissati, chief executive rorists that left 130 people dead or missing. but not one for women.” mall in northeastern Brazil in the officer of Iguatemi, said the company nairobi was never considered a safe “We are selling , the highest- state of São Paulo. hopes to attract more luxury brands city. In fact, by many counts, it has the high- line products,” said Fazal. “We are import- ribeirão Preto is part of Iguatemi’s to ribeirão Preto. “Bringing Iguatemi est homicide rate on the african continent. ing directly from europe — , Boss, expansion in the state and features to ribeirão Preto was always a long- But now more than ever, safety and securi- Zegna, Brioni, Paul & Shark. 200 stores and restaurants, natural standing objective,” he said. “as it is ty are a prime concern following the attack “It is true that in nairobi there are no light and indoor gardens. another Iguatemi’s tradition to facilitate and on the city’s premier mall, Westgate. stand-alone top designer stores,” he added. facet of the mall is entertainment with expand international brands’ pres- elizabeth Klem, managing director of “Let me give you an example to explain a Cinépolis theater with six screens, ence in Brazil, we will continue our the yaya Shopping Centre in yaya towers, why: recently I was going to open one two of them IMaX. the mall will also legacy by working to ease retailers’ one of the few surviving luxury malls in stand-alone boutique of Hugo Boss, in the house Bodytech, a popular gym. entrance into this new market. [We nairobi, is not taking security lightly fol- center of the city. Before I did, I met rep- “ribeirão Preto’s gross domes- have] an ever-increasing portfolio of lowing the attack by terrorists linked to resentatives from Boss in Switzerland, and tic product is the 30th highest in the international brands.” al-Qaeda. “It is the reality we have to live after some soul searching, I told them, ‘My country and the 10th highest in the “Iguatemi’s strategy is to continue to with: sniffer dogs, searching all cars and heart says no! We don’t want to put a Boss state of São Paulo,” said Cristina expand throughout the south and south- people, as well as install- Betts, chief financial officer of east of Brazil, in particular São Paulo ing security hardware,” Iguatemi. “ribeirão Preto also has city and state, which represents over she said. “But it can all be one of the highest per-capita incomes one-third of the gdP of the country,” done successfully. Look in the country. It’s the largest ethanol/ said Betts. “opening an Iguatemi mall in at Israel: they have the sugar-based industry complex in the a new city within São Paulo state allows biggest ongoing security country and concentrates on one of us to increase our footprint in this space, threat, but their malls are the most diverse businesses in Brazil.” which in turn provides us with yet anoth- always full. If they can Iguatemi ribeirão Preto is part er touch point with our tenants and cli- manage, we can, too.” of the largest development complex ents, increasing our relevance for both.” yaya Shopping Centre in Brazil, consisting of 18 residen- Iguatemi has three shopping cen- is one of three or four re- tial towers, seven condominiums, 17 ters under development in the state maining shopping com- office towers, a hotel, event center, of São Paulo, in Votorantim/Sorocaba plexes in the city that cater golf course and school. the project is and São José do rio Preto, bowing in to middle-, upper-middle- budgeted at $259.5 million. 2014, and Jundiaí, opening in 2015. k

and upper-class consumers. E Iguatemi has been capturing “the Brazilian economy continues to during the siege of the luxury brands for the tenant rosters grow and still provides ample opportu- Vltch

Westgate, another upmar- é of its existing 13 malls located in nity for operations that serve untapped R d

ket mall — the Village N rio de Janeiro, Brasília, São Paulo demand,” Betts said. “We believe that Market, located near both A and Porto alegre, among other cit- opening malls in great locations, with by

Mary, the manager of Trevor the enormous United Collections at The Village Market. ies. Iguatemi São Paulo, for exam- the right combination of architecture,

nations compound and photo ple, features Louis Vuitton, tiffany tenants and services will continue to do the U.S. embassy — was & Co., Ferragamo, Burberry, Miu well not only in the immediate future closed for two days. yaya remained open boutique next to some makeshift stalls.’ Miu, Bulgari, , Stella but also in the decades to come.” but was almost empty. Customers are slow- Until now, nairobi does not have one single ly returning, but shopping patterns and so- luxury street, or one single luxury mall.” cial life were decisively interrupted. But is there going to be one soon? beauty beat “the impact of the Westgate attack “definitely,” Fazal said. “and I am in- has been very bad,” said aziz Fazal, di- volved.” the new mall, called two rivers, rector of the Little red store in the yaya is now being constructed in runda, near mall. “People are now scared to go to the the U.n. compound. “there, it will be total Bobbi Brown Taps Vimla Gupta malls. even my own daughter doesn’t come luxury, all major brands. the mall should the creation, development, launch here.…People are not in a psychological open in 2015.” By JULIe naUgHton strategy and market rollout of the lux- frame of mind for shopping. now we are all even before then, several places are ury asian skin-care brand. Before join- selling less, despite the fact that logically considering installing high-end boutiques VIMLa gUPta has been named se- ing Lauder, gupta served as a global costumers should be moving to those few to their premises, particularly the new lux- nior vice president of global market- business manager at the gillette Co. remaining shopping facilities. now people ury hotel Villa rosa Kempinski. ing for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. and as a marketing director in beauty think twice even going for dinner. In one “the growth of upmarket retail stores In her new role, gupta will report care and new business development week, from Saturday to Saturday, our sales will be enormous, and no threat can deter to Maureen Case, president of Bobbi at Procter & gamble Co., where she dropped by approximately 50 percent.” it,” said Klem. “For instance, garden City Brown and Jo Malone London. Case worked domestically and internation- Last Saturday evening at the Village on thika road.…It will be what you could has charged gupta with leading the ally on marketing and new product de- Market, on the one-week anniversary of call a ‘regional mall,’ and it will be just global marketing team and formulat- velopment on a variety of mass brands. the Westgate attack, eateries and shops enormous. there will be ‘Hub’ and ‘two ing short-term and long-term strategic “Vimla has an incredibly focused were eerily empty. Some boutiques re- rivers,’ with 100 acres of prime property. business plans for the brand. sense of the consumer and business mained closed. the middle class is growing here, the econ- gupta replaces alicia Sontag in environment,” said Case. “Her ex- “We are experiencing a significant drop omy of Kenya is growing…” the role. perience across mass and prestige in the number of customers coming to our the constraints on retailing of foreign gupta joined the estée Lauder brands will help us to achieve profit- shop,” said Mary, the manager of trevor brands are mainly government regulations. Cos. Inc. in 2008 as vice president of able and strategic growth.” Collections, a boutique at the Village “the biggest restraints were shipping new brand development at Idea Bank, added Brown, the brand’s namesake Market, who gave only her first name. and Customs,” said Klem. “duties are the division of the estée Lauder Cos. and founder: “Vimla has insight into “towards the end of last week, things clearly so high that customers are discour- that identifies and creates new beauty what real women want combined with began to pick up, little by little. But today aged by the final prices. If something costs brands for the company. Case pointed a wealth of experience, so I know she is the anniversary and people decided to 50 in London or South africa, it could eas- out that as vice president of global will be a tremendous asset to the team stay home.” ily go for 100 here, in nairobi.” marketing for osiao, gupta oversaw as we continue to grow the brand.”

w02a009a.indd 9 10/1/13 5:53 PM 10012013175523 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2 , 2013

show. I mean, if this was in the States, this at Moynihan Station in New York. This would be like NASCAR. All these girls year’s festivities will honor Ed Ruscha FASHION SCOOPS would have a sponsor,” he said. and are sponsored by Louis Vuitton. The couple was enjoying a vacation The French luxury label has displayed before Harvey returns to juggling his the California artist’s work in its Paris hit daytime show “Steve Harvey,” game boutique on Avenue Montaigne. Actress show “Family Feud,” his radio program Michelle Williams, currently fronting the and writing a follow-up to his bestselling brand’s fall campaign, will serve as an self-help book “Act Like a Lady, Think honorary cochair. Like a Man.” The party patronage follows Louis “I’m debating on whether it’s going Vuitton’s sponsorship of the Whitney’s to be a relationship book or about Yayoi Kusama retrospective in 2012. principles of success,” he said. “My wife — WWD STAFF told me I can’t take any more jobs.” Guests including Ciara, Olivia Palermo, Amenities from Oscar de la Renta. Astrid Muñoz, Elettra Wiedemann and Victor Alfaro also took in the show. — J.D.

PAUSE FOR REFLECTION: Giambattista Valli celebrated the publication of a coffee- table book recounting the first eight years of his label with a signing session at the Jeu de Paume museum in Paris on Monday evening. Guests including Alber Elbaz, U.S. Ambassador Charles Rivkin and POWER OF SUGGESTION: Oscar de la Renta Susan Tolson Angie Harmon Katy Perry his wife , and is looking to the amenities business to Bianca Brandolini d’Adda and Rita Ora Kate Upton Stacy Martin took in exhibits keep his name top of mind with the one including large blow-ups of photographs million guests bunking at any of The PHOTOS BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTOS BY detailing the journey of a collection from Peninsula Hotel’s more than 2,000 rooms PICASSO BABY: The larger-than-life art should satisfy fans of the franchise. mood board to catwalk, live footage and a worldwide. “We’re trying to get our gallery set of Karl Lagerfeld creations at “The costumes are insane, Charlize Theron portrait of Valli by Francesco Clemente. customers, the people who are logical the Chanel show in Paris had Katy Perry looks amazing — it’s going to be really “I wanted the spirit of the book to shoppers for Oscar de la Renta clothes, ready to pull out her credit card. The incredible,” she said. The daughter of be without a real start and a real end,” who happen to be spending the night at singer took a shine to a sculpture of two rocker Lenny Kravitz is also planning to said the designer. “I wanted it to be the Peninsula Hotel to think about us giant quilted Chanel handbags. “Can you release an EP with her new band, Lola like a work in progress, far from auto- when they march up or down the street see if that’s for purchase?” she asked Wolf, in November. celebration, but to be just a way to think, of Fifth Avenue,” said Alex Bolen, chief an assistant. “I didn’t know it was for — JOELLE DIDERICH AND ALEX WYNNE a way to explain my vision, the more executive officer. purchase, but I see a lot of red dots on intimate side of my De la Renta, who was in town everything already.” CHANGING OF THE GUARD: Yiqing Yin is vision — to explain the Monday evening to celebrate It turns out the singer has developed poised to take over as creative director method to people that the Peninsula New York’s 25th something of a Chanel habit. “It’s at French fashion label Leonard don’t really know this anniversary as well as his first really the only thing that I splurge on, following the departure of Raffaele profession.” partnership with an outside labelwise,” she said. “I’m into vintage Borriello after three seasons at the The tome weighs in brand, said he was inspired to Chanel, so I’ve been doing house, according to market at 400 pages, including enter the amenities business a lot of 1990s hunting.” sources. A spokeswoman three booklets, and will because of his own habit of Perry also hopes to don for Leonard said Borriello’s be published by Rizzoli taking products home with him the label in the video for final day at the label New York in November. after a hotel stay. the next track from her was Monday, when he Featuring texts by the “People at the hotel use the album “Prism,” coming presented his last women’s likes of Lee Radziwill, Diane soap, [but] if someone doesn’t use out this month. ready-to-wear collection. Kruger and Pamela Golbin, all the products most people take “There’s a lot of However, she added that his it will retail for $100. it away. I do,” said De la Renta. positivity and anthems, successor had not yet been Valli recently opened The line, comprised of two and hope and joy,” she said chosen. Yin has garnered a store dedicated to Angie bar soaps, as well as shampoo, of the record. “The reason plaudits for her intricately accessories opposite his Harmon conditioner, shower gel and why I called it ‘Prism’ is pleated couture creations main boutique in the body lotion, was produced because I let a lot of light and made headlines by by Gilchrist & Soames, The into my life, which was dressing Audrey Tautou for Peninsula Hotels’ amenities supplier. necessary, because I was in the opening ceremony of Firmenich created the unisex tea-based a darker place.” the Cannes Film Festival “citrus aromatic floral musk” scent. De Rita Ora has also been in May. la Renta’s namesake amenities range, recording. “I’m working Leonard has seen a with the addition of scented bath salts, on my second album. revolving door of designers are also on hand at his Tortuga Bay It’s pop-based, but with since the departure in 2011 resort in the Domincan Republic. a lot of soul — what I’ve of Véronique Leroy after eight The range launched Monday into wanted to do for ages. And Vanessa Paradis years at the helm. She was the current lineup of nine Peninsula PHOTO BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTO BY

thank god, my boyfriend’s replaced by Maxime Simoens, VALLI GIAMBATTISTA FOR DUFOUR Hotels worldwide, with the 10th set amazing,” she said, who lasted just one season to open in Paris next summer. “We referring to DJ Calvin Harris. at the house. — MILES SOCHA AND J.D. think the hospitality business has Ora revealed her upcoming makeup many interesting points for our brand line for Rimmel London would include OVERBOOKED: Guests at the Valentino show Giambattista Valli and Alber Elbaz when you think about home products, her signature bright red lipstick, in Paris on Tuesday included the usual furniture, bridal,” said Bolen, hinting at but also softer shades. “I’m going to flock of socialites, and more unexpectedly, MICHEL BY PHOTOS a possible De la Renta-inspired bridal definitely open it up, because not the U.S. comedian and syndicated talk-show Galerie de la Madeleine in Paris. “Little suite at the Peninsula as a future option. whole world wears red lipstick — even host Steve Harvey, who was accompanying by little, I’m planning several openings,” — BELISA SILVA though that’s my aim,” she said. “I love his wife, Marjorie Bridges. he said. “I would love to [make my label] the fact that I can do something that’s “I’ve just come to see if maybe we can the new iconic luxury house for a new FASHION FUNDING: Fashion GPS, arbiter just affordable and easy to reach.” not buy everything. That’s all,” Harvey generation of customer.” of digital fashion week invites, said it Tuesday’s show, staged in the soaring deadpanned. “It’s not going good at all. Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, chief raised $4 million in Series A funding. glass-and-steel Grand Palais, drew Not at all. I’m losing. Being here, I can executive officer of Chloé, said the Eddie Mullon, founder and chief executive guests including Kate Upton, Stacy Martin, actually watch the losses.” house had already come a long way. officer, declined to reveal participants Vanessa Paradis, Virginie Ledoyen, Zoë Kravitz, Harvey, who was attending Paris “You can see that he’s mastered in the round, save for IronFire Capital Rila Fukushima and Lou Doillon. Fashion Week for the second time, said all the couture techniques and in Asia. “We’re looking to open in Milan Upton enthused about shooting her he was still blown away by the scale of the craftsmanship, which is a huge and Hong Kong, and expand the global first film, “The Other Woman,” opposite catwalk shows. “We went to the Chanel achievement already, but more presence,” Mullon said, adding that the Cameron Diaz. “I’m the other, other importantly, because of his Roman roots company already has offices in New woman,” she said of her role. “This man and his natural attitude and character, York, London, Paris and Sydney. As gets around.” The model has been taking you can feel in his collection both the the company readies a move into Italy, acting classes for two years. “It’s a craft exuberance and the Roman attitude, the Fashion GPS will sponsor the Decoded and you have to learn it,” she said. refinement of the Roman artist,” he said. Pitti conference in Milan later this Martin is also making her first steps De la Bourdonnaye recommended month. The seven-year-old firm raised in film, in controversial director Lars Valli maintain the emphasis on a $1.3 million seed round in 2011 from von Trier’s upcoming “Nymphomaniac,” impeccable craftsmanship and superior Ashton Kutcher, Guy Oseary, Ronald Lauder no less. “It was very overwhelming,” in-store service. “But he’s got this and Len Blavatnik. — RACHEL STRUGATZ she said of the experience. Despite her instinct, so I don’t think it’s going to be a clipped British accent, it turns out the problem,” he added. — J.D. ARMANI’S NEW DEAL: The cast of “The actress is half French. “I was born in Counselor,” a new thriller out Oct. Paris. I blend in very easily — it’s my HONORING ED: The Whitney Museum of 25 in the U.S., will not want for style, trick,” she said. American Art will host its annual two- with stars Michael Fassbender and Kravitz said she was heading to act night of autumnal fund-raising on Penélope Cruz decked out in a range of Australia for reshoots on “Mad Max Marjorie Bridges and Steve Harvey Oct. 23 with its Whitney Gala and, for Emporio Armani duds, thanks to a new

4: Fury Road,” adding that the movie STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTO BY the later crowd, Studio Party at Skylight partnership between and WWD wednesday, october 2 , 2013 11 WWD.COM

21st Century Fox that Pom Klementieff. She’s also extends to retail featured in Spike Saint Laurent Severs Ties With Colette and digital initiatives. Lee’s “Oldboy,” out also carried ones with the slogans “Céline Fassbender, who Nov. 27 in the U.S., By MILES SOCHA Dion” and “Homiés,” a riff on Hermès. In plays a lawyer, will wear and recently finished recent years, it stocked “Karl Who?” and a range of Emporio shooting Cyril Morin’s PARIS — Hedi Slimane is taking aim at other T-shirts referring to Karl Lagerfeld, Armani suits in navy, “Hacker’s Game” in T-shirts that parody the luxury brand he helms. a devoted Colette shopper. cream and light gray, as Los Angeles, entirely According to sources, Yves Saint The popularity of the T-shirts is indicative well as assorted Armani in English. Laurent is taking legal action against sev- of the pervasive appeal of luxury brands and Jeans pieces when he’s “That’s why I’ve got eral makers of T-shirts bearing the “Ain’t the ongoing dialogue between high fashion off-duty. As Fassbender’s purple hair. I play the Laurent Without Yves” slogan. and youth culture, while raising legal issues fiancée Laura, Cruz lead female role. It’s a The French fashion house also has sev- around trademark protection. appears in outfits love story between two ered a 15-year business relationship with The “Ain’t Laurent” T-shirt, retailing for including a scarlet hackers,” she added, Paris retailer Colette for having carried them. about 42 euros, or $56.75, winks to Slimane’s knee-length dress with a posing in front of a Sarah Andelman, Colette’s creative di- decision last year to change the name of matching cardigan and a display case featuring rector, purchasing manager and the daugh- YSL collections and stores to Saint Laurent. white trenchcoat. the same houndstooth ter of store founder Colette Rousseau, is At the time, Slimane said he wished to re- “I have known check shoes she crying foul, saying multibrand retailers capture the impulses that inspired the Giorgio Armani for herself was wearing. should be free to select their assortments. founder to launch the Saint Laurent Rive many years,” the actress Actor Clovis Cornillac, She said Slimane and YSL have re- Gauche ready-to-wear line in 1966 — among observed, adding that Olivia Bee accompanying his taliated by canceling her them youth, freedom and while the designer had wife Lilou Fogli, said he spring and resort orders The divisive modernity. dressed her on numerous would be hitting the totaling 101,191 euros at T-shirt. Andelman said she decid- occasions, “this is the Pom Klementieff Paris stage in January wholesale, or $136,690 at ed to go on the record about first time he designed the with a version of current exchange. “We the break with YSL to call at- looks for my character.” Patrick Süskind’s one- have been excommuni- tention to the inordinate de- “As a cinema devotee, man play “The Double cated,” an incredulous and gree of control some brands I’m always honored to Bass.” “It’s a beautiful emotional Andelman told exert on independent retail- play a small part in the play,” he said of the WWD Tuesday morning at ers. “Should we accept fash- magic of filmmaking,” tragic comedy, which her store, a wall of Saint ion dictatorship?” she asked. said Armani, who called marked Süskind’s Laurent handbags dis- Without naming them, Cruz “eternally beautiful breakthrough in 1981. played behind her. “There Andelman said other “big and brilliant,” and “It’s fascinating to do.” is no respect for all the brands” are becoming simi- Fassbender “an Armani Julie Gayet was glowing work we did in the past.” larly heavy-handed with man on-screen and off.” from the success of YSL had no comment, Colette, asking her to re- “The Counselor” Bertrand Tavernier’s stressing that its dealings with move Instagram photos of costume designer Janty movie “Quai d’Orsay,” a retailers are confidential. their products, for example. Yates had collaborated “political comedy” out Andelman, who rarely Andelman said YSL first inique Maître

with Armani previously M next month in which she shares figures, detailed that since 1998 Colette contacted her in mid-September to voice

for “De-Lovely,” a film Do stars that took the prize has placed wholesale orders for YSL fashions displeasure about Colette selling the Saint about the life and career for best scenario at the valued at 2.9 million euros, or $3.9 million at Laurent parody T-shirts, and asked her to of composer Cole Porter, San Sebastian Film current exchange, including collections by remove them immediately from its Web site. hotos by

while director Ridley Scott P Festival over the Slimane during his first stint designing men’s Andelman agreed, while noting she had worked with Armani past weekend. wear at the fashion house in the Nineties. would off-load remaining stock in the brick- on the 2001 horror flick “Hannibal.” Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian stopped The landmark Rue Saint Honoré retailer and-mortar store, which she said she ac- — CYNTHIA MARTENS to look at an embroidered ankle — a pioneering “concept store” showcasing complished by Sept. 21. Then YSL canceled boot, confiding: “It reminds me of my fashion, beauty products, design objects orders and its new chief executive officer, LEGENDS OF THE FALL: This year’s Pratt mother. She wore things like these in and books alongside a gallery and restau- Francesca Bellettini, dispatched a letter to Legend Awards will be awarded to the Fifties and Sixties.” rant — has also hosted YSL exhibitions and Andelman alleging the retailer seriously four individuals who know firsthand Hosts de la Fressange and Bruno stocked selections through the damaged the YSL brand and confirming how productive a little nesting can be. Frisoni and Palais de Tokyo president and Stefano Pilati eras. the end of their business relationship. Architect David Easton, Architectural Jean de Loisy, as well as Vivier owner Colette more than tripled its YSL buy Given that other prominent multibrand Digest’s Margaret Russell, artist James Tod’s Group chairman and chief for Slimane’s hotly anticipated debut col- retailers in Europe had sold YSL parody Turrell and author Pete Hamill will pick executive officer Diego Della Valle, lection for spring 2013, and has already T-shirts, and are still able to stock Saint up the top prizes at the Nov. 11 event mingled with an eclectic bunch sold 220 of the 564 units it is stocking for Laurent, Andelman said Colette has been at the Mandarin Oriental hotel near including Yves Carcelle, Farida Khelfa, the current fall season, Andelman said. unfairly singled out. Manhattan’s Columbus Circle. Rossy de Palma, Maria Grazia Chiuri, The retailer began selling the YSL par- “I am really shocked because it’s just a This fall’s event will be hosted by Ted Pierpaolo Piccioli, Mia Moretti, Bouchra ody T-shirts in its ground-floor streetwear T-shirt,” she said. “There’s no doubt that it’s Allen of the Food Network’s “Chopped.” Jarrar, Alexis Mabille and Alice Temperley. department, and online, last March. It has not a Saint Laurent product.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG — ALEX WYNNE

BUSY BEES: She wasn’t quite the IN THE BACK ROOM: Loehmann’s chief youngest woman in the room; Inès de executive officer Steven Newman spent la Fressange’s daughter Violette beat 10 grueling days going incognito in STOP HERE her to that title. But at 19, Olivia Bee a few of the chain’s stores to tape an has an impressive résumé already. episode of CBS’ “Undercover Boss” The photographer, known for her that is set to air Friday POSEN HEADS NORTH: Following in the footsteps of Oscar de la Renta and Marchesa’s Georgina soft-focus pictures of adolescent life, His days often started with a 7:30 Chapman and Keren Craig, Zac Posen will be the third designer to team with Suzanne Rogers for her For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. has charmed many a brand — most a.m. makeup call and stretched until 10 annual event in Toronto. As part of Suzanne Rogers Presents Zac Posen, the designer will hold his first recently Roger Vivier, for which p.m. While working in various roles as runway show in Canada at The Carlu on April 28. Posen is also partnering with Holt Renfrow to do a trunk she shot the fall Virgule “Harry” at the discounter’s show before he heads back to New York. campaign featuring Atlanta For more stores in San Francisco, “Suzanne Rogers Presents” has raised $1.7 million for children’s charities. This year’s affair will benefit de Cadenet Taylor — but also scoops, see Costa Mesa, Calif., and Chevy Spaces Boost Child Abuse Prevention & Intervention, which helps children and their families in Toronto and Hermès, Converse, Nike, Chase, Md., as well as its surrounding areas. Fiat 500 and Adidas. WWD.com Rutherford, N.J. distribution — R.F. At the cocktail reception center, the company’s brass COMMERCIAL to celebrate the opening of had to wear a toupee so REAL ESTATE BABY SHOWER: Many designers took advantage of Paris Fashion Week — and Kim Kardashian’s first public appearance since the birth of her baby, North West — to shower the little girl with gifts. Kardashian posted the Vivier retrospective at the Palais de as to not tip off employees. His Account Executive Tokyo Monday evening, the confident, alter ego’s workwear — terrible pants Major Dress and Sportswear company pictures of baby outfits from Alber Elbaz, Riccardo Tisci, Phoebe Philo and Alexander Wang, accompanied by quirky teen explained that she thinks and even worse shoes — was one of seeks a sales person to organize and handwritten notes, on her Instagram page. Subscribe grow our online retailers. The correct her appeal, especially for luxury the hardest parts for the designer- candidate must be detail oriented and “Dear North, Welcome to the world. We love you!” read one, signed “Alber,” accompanied by two dresses brands, lies in the ability to capture the label-loving Newman and he said the 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes analytical. Must also be creative and and a skirt-and-T-shirt combo. The presents also included a black leather dress from Wang and a miniature today! an excellent communicator, both ver- spirit of youth. hairpiece “took on a life of its own.” Menswear Showrooms bal and written. Resumes to Bambi T-shirt from Tisci’s fall collection. — ALEX WYNNE “It’s a breath of fresh air,” she His roadie was Loehmann’s vice D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 [email protected] said. “Part of the point is to give president/general counsel Mindy Experienced sample maker needed by MAJOR EVENING DRESS MFG. these brands accessibility so that Novack, whose tasks included finding Call 800.289.0273 Must be able to make 1st sample and NO ART young people are attracted to them, baseball caps large enough to fit over work directly with designer & draper. for individual Please contact PATRICK AT too. Hermès and Roger Vivier are Newman’s unruly toupee. “The hair 212 944-2188. typically brands made for women who was just a giant mound of synthetic subscriptions, are older. We’re trying to say, ‘No, ugliness. We were hoping the caps Product Development kids, this is f--king cool too, you can would flatten it down a bit,” she said. Fast paced childrenswear co seeks or email liaison between Prod, Design & wear this.’” As for the metaphorical different Retailer who understands Safety & [email protected] Quality issues, & has knowledge of Fit Bee said she is turning her hand hats he wore for the show, Newman & Garment construction. Must know to filming, and would like to work on posed as an order processer, a approval process of s/o lab dips & art STOP HERE!!!! & issue tech packs. Managerial exp music videos and features, but named personal shopper and a sales req.Orders &tracks samples for all dep brands she aspires to work with as associate in the bra department. With t.Email:[email protected] Chanel, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy no viewing party planned, the leader — with a hard G — and others. of the 39-unit chain may duck for cover FRENCH CONNECTION: “It all started with a soy latte and a carrot cake at the Rose Bakery back in Another face coming up — in front when the show airs. “Knowing Steve, (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] March,” said Olivia Kim, newly appointed director of creative projects at Nordstrom. “And then Pete of the camera this time — is that of he’ll probably want to watch this in [Nordstrom] and I just walked around Paris and I showed him the things that get me inspired.” Canadian-born, France-based actress total seclusion,” Novack said. — R.F. Naturally, the first “pop-in” Kim thought up for the Seattle-based retailer will have a French theme,

w02a010(11)a;8.indd 11 10/1/13 7:06 PM 10012013190740 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2013 WWD.COM

Kennedy Center chairman David of a Bach étude) ended the gala didn’t expect a government Rubenstein, who challenged the with a flash of footwear fantasy. shutdown to put a damper on 540 members of Congress to “I had them custom-made in Washington’s fall social season. consider music therapy as a Hong Kong,” he said of his “Events like this won’t be hurt Supe’s On way to get along. Even former shoes, aimed at highlighting his because they depend mostly on Supreme Court justices earned footwork on the organ’s pedals. private funds,” said Royce. praise: Bonnie McElveen-Hunter So what accounts for the dazzle? Turned out he was wrong. The THE NATIONAL Symphony and I went to Cape Breton, and raved about the fly-fishing trip “The Swarovski crystals,” said National Gallery canceled its Orchestra’s opening season the music reminded me of that. she just went on with retired Carpenter with a flounce of his Wednesday reception to launch ball rallied music lovers and He said it’s called ‘Appalachia Justice Sandra Day O’Connor. three-inch-high Mohawk hairdo. the show entitled “Heaven and socialites alike to give their Waltz,’” said Roberts, referring to McElveen-Hunter later danced One of the few members Earth: Art of Byzantium from gowns an airing with just hours to the composition by Mark O’Connor. with Cameron Carpenter, the first of Congress on hand, Rep. Ed Greek Collections,” leaving the go before the federal government The court’s star power in organist ever nominated for a Royce (R., Calif.), chairman of entire Greek delegation in town shutdown. With few members of the specter of a government Grammy for a solo album, whose the House Foreign Relations with nothing on their schedule. Congress or White House policy shutdown was not lost on own encore (his interpretation Committee, insisted he — SUSAN WATTERS makers in sight, the party relied on the supersocial Supreme Court to put political muscle into its $1.3 million fund-raiser. As the court prepared to get eye back in session next week, the nation’s leading jurists didn’t disappoint. Led by Chief Justice John Roberts, along with Justices Anthony Kennedy and Ruth Bader

Ginsburg, the judicial branch snagged top billing at the event. Roberts, like everyone else at the gala, was dazzled by cellist Yo-Yo SCHULMAN Ma’s haunting encore in response to a standing ovation from the

Supreme Court Chief MARGOT Kennedy Center president

packed hall. “I went backstage Justice John Roberts BY Michael M. Kaiser and Justice to ask him what it was,” said the with his wife, Jane. Ruth Bader Ginsberg. chief justice, adding, “My wife PHOTOS

to an ownership stake in the new venture, Macklemore, Ryan Lewis MEMO PAD according to sources, though the exact percentage share could not be confirmed. Among Project Décor’s founders, Sirlin is AUGHTS ARTIFACT REVIVED: The resuscitation spearheading the great Domino return. While Taking Buffalo Viral of the early-Aughts magazine Domino the focus of this Domino is on e-commerce, will finally take place with much fanfare the quarterly is being handled by several of a celebrity piece and we love at- on Thursday with the unveiling of an magazine veterans. The editor is Michelle By ARNOLD J. KARR taching the brand to music, a natural e-commerce Web site, a print quarterly Adams, who has deep roots in the shelter for the predominantly 18-to-35 brack- and a story, exclusively category from her days as a NEW YORK — Iconix Brand Group et the brand is after. This program trumpeting the comeback, in market editor at the original Inc., which sought to give Buffalo is simply a matter of being where The New York Times. Domino, and later as the David Bitton an international boost Buffalo’s customer is. Yo u have to WWD first reported founding editor in chief of when it acquired a 51 percent stake in connect at every touch point.” Domino’s impending revival digital shelter magazine Lonny. the company eight months ago, is now Recently, that matchmaking ex- on Aug. 29. At that time, the Though ad sales for the looking to give the brand a viral lift. ercise included sponsorship of the launch date was said to be biannual special issues had Iconix has engaged hip-hop duo Billboard Music Awards. As “Blank as early as September. Its been handled by Condé, Macklemore & Ryan Lewis as the debut is now coming just a the role of chief revenue first of its participants in its “Blank few days into October. officer will now fall to Beth Check Series,” which will endow Though there is a Brenner, who was the founding artists in various media to produce quarterly print magazine, publisher of the original media content on behalf of the brand. Domino 2.0 revolves around Domino and most recently The first of the duo’s films, doc- e-commerce. The Web site was at Meredith Corp.’s umenting an international tour al- will be updated regularly Traditional Home in the ready under way and scheduled to with home decor posts — same capacity. conclude in Seattle on Dec. 12, will tips on lighting, for instance, The first issue of the print be released today and be available or an “at home” feature with quarterly, the contents of at the duo’s Web site at mackl- an interior decorator — but Domino is making a comeback. which will also be revealed emore.com, the brand’s site at buf- the gimmick is that every Thursday, is timed to coincide falojeans.com and on social media item on the site is shoppable. with the holiday season — “We’re back!” sites such as Facebook, Instagram The items for sale are not exclusive to the chirps a cute pink headline on the cover, and YouTube. Domino site. Instead, the aspiration is that which carries a $12 price tag and is hitting “The two of them have over two shoppers will be persuaded by the Domino newsstands Tuesday. A spokeswoman for million Instagram followers,” said sensibility, and curation, and use the site for Domino declined to discuss details about Dari Marder, chief marketing officer Macklemore & Ryan Lewis are taking their home shopping needs. the relaunch, including the total number of of Iconix. “This is a highly engaged part in Iconix’s “Blank Check Series.” Project Décor — a one-year-old advertising pages in the inaugural quarterly, audience. It’s not like there’s a lot Check” proceeds, it will touch a va- e-commerce design site or whether Condé is getting a of work needed to push this out.” riety of art forms and media chan- launched by, among others, cut of the advertising revenue. The duo’s sturdy hit “Thrift nels. The second iteration of the Andy Appelbaum, one of the As a bonus to Domino Shop” has been viewed 429.7 mil- program is expected to involve cofounders of Seamless zealots, the magazine’s lion times on YouTube. some kind of in-store installation. Web, and Cliff Sirlin, an angel archives will also now be They are expected to make a total “We’re not ready to talk about the investor — is taking the available online, though it’s of five films as part of the series. particulars yet, but it will be with lead in Domino’s revival unclear if there’s an added fee Although not literally a a name in the fashion community, and is handling the back- to access them. — ERIK MAZA blank check, Iconix has given right in the fashion wheelhouse,” end of the sales. Domino Macklemore and Ryan Lewis and the cmo said. “We’re looking for was founded in 2005 by SHE’S NOT FOR SALE: French other artists who will participate ways of giving artists an opportuni- Condé Nast and much to the Elle employees can breath in the program significant creative ty to tell a story through the brand.” dismay of its cult followers a sigh of relief. Their leeway to execute as they wish and, The program is open-ended and was shuttered four years publication is not about to go in the first iteration of the program, might eventually include philan- later amid a spate of on the block, according to the a budget large enough to fund a full thropic programs as well. magazine closings at the chairman and chief executive video production crew of four in Iconix in February paid $76.5 mil- publishing company that Denis Olivennes with officer of the magazine’s Europe and 10 in the U.S. lion for a 51 percent stake in Buffalo also later claimed Cookie partner Inès de la parent company Lagardère While still a small part of and formed a joint venture with and Gourmet. Condé kept Fressange at the Active, Denis Olivennes. Buffalo’s undisclosed marketing Montreal-based Buffalo International the outlines of a brand Roger Vivier party DOMINIQUE MAITRE Asked whether the budget, Marder said it didn’t come ULC as its partner and core licensee. on life support in the way Monday evening. publication could be one at the expense of other efforts. Neil Cole, Iconix’s chief executive of twice-annual special of those the company PHOTO BY “We’re simply doing more of every- officer, said the primary goal of the interest publications, or plans to sell off as part of thing,” she said. amalgamation would be interna- SIPs, like Domino Quick Fixes. rationalization plans to be detailed later “Unlike some of our acquisitions, tional expansion. The brand, focused Project Décor, which is beginning to find this month, Olivennes told WWD: “No. there was nothing really broken on North American distribution its sea legs as an e-tailer of furnishings, Definitely no, a categoric no.” He continued: about this brand when we bought at the time of the purchase, is now took an interest in applying its e-commerce “Elle is a marvelous publication, and we into it,” Marder said. “They have available in 18 countries, including savvy to Domino, which retains some name are very proud to own it. It is the jewel in great products and distribution. We Ukraine and markets in the Balkans recognition, and offered to license the name the crown. The crown has other baubles, but thought we needed to add something and Middle East. from Condé. The publisher is hanging on Elle is the jewel.” — ALEX WYNNE