magazine winter 2011 magazine winter 2011 Northern England Northern England 14/11/2011 16:31 03 St John’s in the Vale, Cumbria 04 , G Distance 18km/11 miles G Time 7½hrs G Type Hill G Distance 21km/12 miles G Time 5-6hrs G Type Moorland

NAVIGATION FITNESS NAVIGATION FITNESS 3 LEVEL 3 3/4 LEVEL 3/4 4 LEVEL 4 4 LEVEL 4

IS A H Plan your walk TH OL Plan your walk E ID K A A with Y ! M Ramblers G Morecambe

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Carlisle Countrywide k Bay w u w . Holidays o CUMBRIA . c ra . m e G b id Lancaster lers tryw coun FOREST OF ST JOHN’S IN BOWLAND THE VALE G Kendal Yorkshire DUNSOP Dales G Lancaster DUNSOP Preston Blackburn G G

WHERE: Circular walk WHERE: Circular walk from from St John’s in the Vale, in the Forest over Clough Head and of Bowland. PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY PHOTOGRAPHY: the Dodds, with a return FIONA BARLTROP PHOTOGRAPHY: START/END: Dunsop Bridge (SD660501). over High Rigg (or along The lovely valley of St John’s in 1. START Set off along the Hang your hat amid the a sizeable chunk. This mixed the valley). the Vale is one of the quieter broad, stony track signed TERRAIN: Boggy sheer, isolated desolation of history made Bowland a cause START/END: Wanthwaite areas of the Lake District, the fells ‘Matterdale – Unsuitable moorland, with some Whitendale Hanging Stones célèbre among campaigners (NY316231). either side of it far less frequented for Motors’. This is the Old steady ascents, stiles and a and – says the Ordnance Survey demanding the right to roam TERRAIN: Stony track and than many elsewhere. To the Coach Road, which crosses the small stretch of paved road. – you’re at the very centre of and, perhaps in recognition grassy fell, with a steep east lies the northern end of the fl anks of Clough Head and MAPS: OS Explorer OL41; Great Britain and its outlying of this, Bowland was the fi rst but straightforward Helvellyn range, a great ridge Matterdale Common at the Landranger 103. islands. But there is more to area to be opened up under the ascent and descent and of fells whose highest point, northern end of the Helvellyn GETTING THERE: The Bowland than merely massaging Countryside and Rights of Way easy walking over high, Helvellyn, is the most climbed range. As you climb steadily Bowland Transit Bus B10/ your inner pedant. A remote Act 2000. grassy tops. mountain in Lakeland. It can get up, there are excellent views of B11 serves Dunsop Bridge Area of Outstanding Natural MAPS: OS Explorer OL5; very busy up here, but just a few both Blencathra and Skiddaw. from , which Beauty, it hosts the UK’s largest 1. START The tiny village of Landranger 90. miles away – north of Sticks Pass Follow the track for about an is served by regular breeding site for hen harriers, Dunsop is owned by the Duchy GETTING THERE: – the broad, grassy tops of the hour, looking out for a second trains from Manchester and is also home to merlins, of Lancaster and everyone still ✆ Nearest mainline trains Dodds and Clough Head afford stile on your R (a wooden shelter ( 0871 200 2233, short-eared owls and ring pays rent to the Queen. The stop at Windermere, equally fi ne views, but without with a rusty corrugated metal www.traveline-northwest. ouzel. The 17th-century Pendle idyllic village green hosts a where the regular 555 bus the crowds. To the west of the roof lies just beyond, on the L co.uk). witches, outrageously accused colony of well-fed ducks and to Keswick stops at Stanah valley is a small, much lower fell of the track). EATING & DRINKING: of murder by witchcraft, hailed BT’s 100,000th telephone box (Legburthwaite), close referred to as High Rigg (also Puddleducks, in Dunsop from here too. What’s more, – handy, as there is no mobile to the last leg of the known locally as Naddle Fell), 2. Cross the stile and follow Bridge, is a truly excellent Bowland isn’t really a forest phone reception in the valley. walk (✆ 0871 200 2233, which stands on its own the clear path that climbs country café which (much of the area is moorland) Take the bridleway just before www.traveline.info). surrounded by its much loftier steeply up to Clough Head serves great cakes but retains the name as a former the bridge and follow the paved ✆ EATING & DRINKING: neighbours. This, too, affords via White Pike (just to the L ( 01200 448241). royal hunting forest, as the way to a block of cottages, then The Lodge in the solitude and super views – but of the path, marked by a large SLEEPING: New Forest does. But it proved on to the path running by the Vale, Legburthwaite with much less effort – and is a cairn). A trig point marks the Wood End Farmhouse too arduous a journey for the . Cross a wooden (✆ 0500 600 725, www. good option for a short day’s 726m/2,381ft summit of Clough B&B, Dunsop Bridge gentlemen of London, and footbridge (SD658508) and turn

✆ lakedistrictinns.co.uk); walk (with a return along the Head, a splendid viewpoint. ( 01200 448223, www. ownership deteriorated into R up the snug, fern-fringed L

The King’s Head Hotel valley) if the weather isn’t Assuming clear conditions, the visitwoodendfarm.co.uk). L something of a free-for-all. The Dunsop valley, with conifer suitable for the higher fells. ongoing route is relatively Duke of Westminster now owns plantations on either side. ▼ ▼ 51-52 Routemaster Northern_Walk33.indd 1 Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM34/08 2 3 Cross it and go L again along a small lane that leads to the A591. R along the verge for a very Turn short distance, then R at the gate and ladder stile. Follow the footpath, very soon bearing L at a fork. Although the ridge-top path that traverses this fell isn’t marked on the OS map, it’s mostly obvious on the ground. 5. At the lane, turn R past the church, then R down a footpath via Bridge House. R again along the road Turn to return the start. Route devised by Fiona Barltrop

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FINISH START START Map not to scale. Representation of OS Landranger MAP 90 1:50,000 www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk 5 Continue south along the 3. very clear ridge-top path, heading for Helvellyn, and turn R to descend the steep, grassy slopes to Stanah. The views are excellent all the way down, marred only slightly by the noise of traffic from the main road as you reach the lower slopes. You have a particularly good view of little High Rigg/Naddle Fell, which is your return route. Near the bottom, you cross Stanah Gill by a footbridge and then go over a ladder stile on to the access drive that takes you down to the B5322. R along the road past 4. Turn then L the Lodge in Vale, into the Legburthwaite car park.

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50 Walks in in 50 Walks ler S : S All the eateries All the eateries K

017687 72645, 017687 72645, nformation: 01229 825523, 01229 825523, i am B Penrith Ramblers Penrith Ramblers oo

r B p: e U D itor i 01768 863155, www. 017687 72393, www. 017687 79242, ro U ocal ocal ✆ ✆ ✆ g l g Vi S Sleeping: Keswick TIC, Market Keswick TIC, Market Square ( ✆ www.golakes.co.uk). the Lake District by Bill Birkett et al (£9.99, AA, ISBN 9780749555955); Lake District (Collins Rambler’s Guide) by John Gillham & (£10.99, Ronald Turnbull HarperCollins, ISBN 9780002201360); Guides to the Lakeland Fells (Eastern & Central Fells) by A Wainwright (£12.99, Frances Lincoln, ISBN 9780711224650 & 9780711226142). www.summittgood. blogspot.com). TIC below). TIC below). ( penrithramblers.org.uk); SuMMitt Good Lake District 20s to 40s Walking Group ( ✆ & Inn, Thirlmere & Inn, Thirlmere ( lakedistrictinns.co.uk); Low Bridge End Farm ( www.campingbarn.com). mentioned here also offer accommodation, and there are many other options in Keswick, Grasmere and Ambleside (contact the c ontinued... straightforward. Follow the ridge-top path south to Calfhow Pike (a small cairn), then bear L (south-east) for Great Dodd, the highest point of day a at 857m/2,812ft. There’s summit cairn and shelter not Head on south-west far away. Dodd, then to bag Watson’s south-east for Stybarrow Dodd. From here, follow the path Pass: at on down to Stick’s the highest 750m/2,461ft, it’s regularly used pass in Lakeland.

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM34/08

FINISH START START 1 3 2 The fence and path continue 4 of being on top the world, among some of the emptiest scenery in the UK. Stay by fence as it swings south towards Whitendale Hanging Stones, a few paces to the right of very centre of the UK (SD641565). 6. below the severe cloughs of Whin Fell. By the remains of a dry-stone A wall, the hill drops steeply. wall runs in from the L to an unstable stone stile (SD651552); cross it and head south again to reach another wall, a stile and R along the footpath path. Turn (SD652549) to reach . The paved road here leads L back to the information point in front of Middle Knoll, where you can pick up the route back to Dunsop Bridge. Route devised by Mark Rowe 6

5 Map not to scale. Representation of www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk OS Landranger MAP 103 1:50,000 Turn L, keeping the fence on Turn Follow the fence as it bears Broad sweeps of moorland rise on three sides, with the Dunsop L and Turn valley far below. continue for 2km/1.25 miles to a gate and a fence that cut across the path. 4. your R, and head uphill. The path is invariably overwhelmed by boggy ground and sphagnum moss – a sharp, squelchy reminder of how access land is often remote and rough. The path is sometimes little more than a sheep trail and occasionally gives so keep up the ghost altogether, to the fence-line. 5. L towards White Crag and then R and south. Though you are only at 490m/1,608ft, the sheer wilderness can induce the feeling

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Forest of ler S : S S pUB lication K / nformation: S i am B 01200 425566, p oo r B U e D itor ro i 01254 822802, www. 01200 448000, www. g U ocal ocal The path along the bottom of Vi S l g & Clitheroe Ramblers ( ✆ clitheroeramblers.co.uk ). Bowland with Pennine and the West Moors by Andrew Bibby (£8.99, Frances Lincoln, ISBN 978-0711225022). Clitheroe TIC, Church ( ✆ Walk www.visitlancashire.com); Forest of Bowland AONB ( ✆ forestofbowland.com). c ontinued... 2. Bowl-shaped Middle Knoll looms ahead. After 2.5km/1.5 miles you cross a weir and reach an information board (SD654532). Cross the footbridge to the R bank, and The continue up the valley. path twists briefly away from the river and you must skip across some stepping stones before you can follow the path It up the sides of valley. then continues, boggy in parts, to remote Whitendale Farm (SD662549). The story goes that news of the First World armistice took six weeks War to reach Whitendale and its Brennand Farm. Turn neighbour, L between two dry-stone walls to reach the farm. Keep L of the garden before turning R, passing the farm and going through two gates. 3. Whitendale Fell is well marked, often with posts for Salter Fell, but gives you your first taste of the bogs that lie ahead. Game shooting is big around here and you’re sure to flush out the odd startled grouse inadvertently as you plod along. After 3km/2 miles you reach the Roman track known as Hornby Road, where stirring views repay your efforts.

51-52 Routemaster Northern_Walk33.indd 2 10/11/2011 10:56