Opinion: Post-Independence Blues

March 1 - 14, 2013 Issue No. 106 www.prishtinainsight.com Price € 1 NEWS Hardline EU-Funded Serb Municipal Kosovo Buildings Hit Delays Muslims > page 3 Aim to NEWS Public Preschools a Form Party Dream for Many in Prishtina A leader of Bashkohu > page 5 says their party intends to change laws to ‘pro- NEWS tect Muslim interests’ - Prishtina Denies and block the advance of Market Owes gay rights by any means 3 Million Euro possible. > page 6 See Page 4 Photo by: Korab Basha Korab by: Photo NEIGHBOURHOOD Belgrade Aims Thaci Brothers Profit From to Restore US Flight Link Prime Minister’s Power > page 8 CULTURE While Hashim Thaci toasts six years in office, his brothers also have good reason to celebrate his rise. Kosovo Serbs Bring international scandal when a While Thaci himself has built close ties to the Thaci brothers. Southern By Parim Olluri Swiss Council of Europe up strong connections with busi- One thread is a document from Rapporteur, Dick Marty, accused nessmen, his brothers have set up an oil company, Kosova Petrol, Flavour to s he begins his sixth year in him of links to organised crime companies and formed ties to which lists companies that regu- office, Hashim Thaci can and organ trafficking. other powerful firms involved in larly purchase petroleum prod- Belgrade take pride in becoming the A But the flak has not dented his construction, oil, minerals, energy ucts, and names the Prime most powerful and enduring pre- grip on power, nor has it affected and insurance. Minister’s brother, Idriz, as the mier in Kosovo’s short history as > page 14 an independent state. his family’s flourishing business Thaci’s office has batted aside contract person for a company After his Democratic Party of interests. repeated questions about his fami- called Geo Mineral. Kosovo, PDK, took power in 2007, As Prishtina Insight discovered ly’s business interests, as have his The mineral quarry, owned by Thaci presided over Kosovo’s decla- during investigations spanning brothers. Hajati Banjica, is based in ration of independence in 2008 and the past year, the Prime Minister Evidence uncovered by Malishevo, a small municipality Kosovo’s only English-language has remained in office ever since. and his siblings have significantly Prishtina Insight offers a glimpse governed by Thaci’s PDK. newspaper is available: He survived the collapse of his extended their business activities into an overlapping cast of charac- government in 2010, and a major since he took office. ters and business interests with continues page 2 Delivered to Your Door

Milk Scare Spreads to Albania Struggles to Protect From Newsstands Kosovo and Albania its Vandalized Heritage across Kosovo

Food safety authorities in Kosovo have Following public uproar after the Sent To ordered the removal from the market of destruction of paintings by Albanian Your Inbox milk produced by five dairies amid fears of medieval master Onufri, the Albanian contamination by M1. Institute of Monuments has unveiled a Kosovo’s Agency of Food and Veterinary, plan to install 88 new security cameras in From AUV, ordered the removal of milk pro- dozens of churches to protect them from our partners duced by two Albanian... looters... business page 6 news page 11 see page 16 for more info

is supported by: 2 March 1 - 14, 2013 news Thaci Brothers Profit from PM’s Power from page 1

The company, which has gone through several owners through undervalued share transfers since its establishment in 2008, has worked as a subcontractor for Bechtel-Enkas on the largest infra- structure project in Kosovo, the National Highway. Geo Mineral also won three pub- lic tenders from the power corpo- ration KEK, worth around 1.6 mil- lion euro, from 2009 to 2011. The document linking Idriz to Geo Mineral indicates that the firm buys petroleum products from Kosova Petrol, which is owned by Bedri Salmani, a former MP and adviser to the Prime Minister. According to the Kosovo Privatisation Agency and Prishtina Insight’s own investiga- tions in 2012, Salmani usurped state-owned oil pumps for use by Kosova Petrol and took state- owned land to build a hotel, Hotel Victory, in Prishtina. These actions deprived Kosovo of hundreds of thousands of euro, but have not led to any action on the part of the authorities. Banjica, Geo Mineral’s owner, did not respond to Prishtina The Thaci brothers’ business web has a large, lucrative reach. Insight’s questions about Idriz Thaci’s connections to his firm. Iliria Building, a construction of his family, Fazli and Viktor, overseeing the lucrative insur- According to a BBC story dating Geo Mineral meanwhile shares company that built a multi-mil- own major companies in Kosovo. ance industry as deputy director back from 2000, when police from an office in the Dardania area of lion-euro apartment complex in Cakiqi himself is the registered of the Kosovo Insurance Bureau, the UN Mission in Kosovo, Prishtina with Banjica’s son’s 2012 in the Mati 1 area of representative in Kosovo of a to which he was appointed in 2011 UNMIK, raided Gani Thaci’s flat metal trading company, OVE Prishtina. Turkish construction company, and from which he draws a month- that year in a gun-related inci- Group. Iliria is currently completing a Uluova, which is a sub-contractor ly salary of 3,500 euro. dent, they found $250,000 there. A close Thaci associate, Milaim 120-unit complex in the same in the National Highway, the Last September, he received a Gani told police that the money Cakiqi, formerly owned shares in neighbourhood. biggest infrastructure project in bonus of 10,000 euro for helping to had come from a Canadian con- Ove Group. Blerim Thaci did not respond to Kosovo. prevent insurance fraud. The struction company, which in turn Cakiqi, the Prime Minister’s Prishtina Insight’s questions Gani Thaci, eldest brother to Insurance Bureau has yet to told the BBC that it had hired him neighbour in Prishtina’s New about whether he financed any of the explain what Thaci did to earn the to facilitate deals with businesses West district, is also a business the projects. Public records show Prime Minister, meanwhile, has hefty award. under the control of Hashim’s partner of his youngest brother, he has no prior significant busi- done well in a different field from Gani has a long history of bene- provisional government, which Blerim. ness interests. that of his bothers. fiting from his brother’s political took power after the war ended in Blerim and Cakiqi jointly own However, Cakiqi and members He plays an important role in connections. 1999. Kosovo and Serbia Edge Closer Over North Kosovo and Serbia are expected to come closer to an understanding on Serbian-financed institutions in northern Kosovo in their talks in Brussels - but a think tank warns that the situation remains volatile. Kosovo's control while Serbia has continued to finance local security, judicial, health and educational institutions. By Prishtina Insight Kosovo describes the north as an “oasis of organized crime”, accusing Serbia of obstructing the integration of the area. fter a meeting on Tuesday, the Kosovo The International Crisis Group, a think Prime Minister, HashimThaci, and his tank, said an agreed solution had yet to ASerbian counterpart, IvicaDacic, are emerge and the situation remained volatile. continuing talks on the Serb-run north of Kosovo with their mediator, the EU foreign “The leaders of both states seem more policy chief Catherine Ashton. ready than ever to compromise, but the north- Details of Tuesday’s talks remain under ern Kosovo Serbs are staunchly opposed to integration, low-level violence is increasing, wraps but both parties previously said they Kosovo nationalists are tense, and a spark intended to address the question of the Serb- could set off inter-communal fighting,” it run northern part of Kosovo. said. Kosovo wants Serbia to dismantle its so- “Belgrade and Prishtina should seize this called "parallel" structures in north, while chance to engage in a substantial discussion Serbia wants to see broader autonomy offered Y on the transformation of existing structures M for all Serb-populated areas in Kosovo first. in the North and to offer a self-governing C Since the end of the Kosovo conflict in the region that fits into Kosovo’s jurisdiction”, Kosovo Prime Minister HashimThaci, and his Serbian counterpart, Ivica Dacic, are moving closer to an agreement on Serbian-financed institutions in northern Kosovo. K late 1990s, the region has been beyond the ICG report published on Tuesday added. news March 1 - 14, 2013 3 Kosovo ‘Not Dealing With War Editor’s Word Crimes’ Politicians Aren’t Above By Edona Peci the Law

osovo society is struggling to come ast April, when Kosovo police came under to terms with war crimes and sys- fire for their rough treatment of Self- Ktematic human rights abuses LDetermination protestors, the high-rank- because of past grievances and denial, ing MP from the Democratic Party of Kosovo, said a new UN report. PDK, Adem Grabovci, came to their defense. “The overwhelming majority of “If we don't respect the sacred uniform of our respondents from all communities in sacred police, on what basis do we ask someone Kosovo do not consider that members of to respect us?” asked Grabovci, who chairs the their community have committed war PDK’s parliamentary group. crimes,” said the report published on The Self-Determination party recently Tuesday by the UN Development dredged up the quote following revelations that Programme, UNDP in Prishtina. Grabovci’s own sons had been arrested on The report, based on a public opinion The 1999 war still looms large in Kosovo. February 14 on suspicion of attacking a police survey of 1,250 people from all Kosovo’s officer. ethnic groups, said that past grievances mitted during the armed conflict in Besides financial reparations, over 30 While Self-Determination’s motives appear to were obstructing progress. Kosovo was important for the reconcilia- per cent of the respondents said that be nothing more than embarrassing a political Petrit Skenderi of UBO Consulting, the tion process. “rehabilitation and socialisation pro- foe, the case of Grabovci’s sons is indeed trou- company that carried out the UNDP sur- “Increased efforts should be taken by grammes should be offered to the vic- bling. vey, told a press conference in Prishtina judicial authorities to investigate all war tims”, while more than 20 per cent said The incident itself wasn’t that special. A that “each side thinks that the criminals crimes that occurred prior, during and there was a need for “public apologies report from the state prosecutor’s office said belong only, or in the majority, to the after the 1998-1999 armed conflict in order from crime perpetrators”. Guxim Grabovci was speeding near Fushe other side”. to respond to the high expectations of Kosovo “needs to conduct a comprehen- Kosove and failed to stop at a police checkpoint The UNDP report, ‘Perceptions on respondents for criminal prosecution,” sive process of dealing with the past and when a police car gave chase, eventually stop- Transitional Justice’, outlines the cur- the report said. build reconciliation between the commu- ping the BMW at a gas station. rent problems Kosovo is facing over rec- The report also called upon the author- nities” to overcome barriers created by The report stated that because Guxim did not onciliation, missing persons, reparations ities to consider establishing a special the past and forge a European future, the and other key post-conflict issues. reparations fund for those whose lives Netherlands’s deputy ambassador Emma have his driving license on him, he called his Since the end of the conflict between were damaged by the conflict, including Key told the press conference. brother, Ngadhenjim, to ask him to bring it. the Kosovo Liberation Army and Serbian “non-recognised victims such as victims The Prishtina government established When Ngadhenjim arrived, the report added, he forces in 1999, more than 300 war crimes of sexual violence”. a ministerial working group in June 2012 attacked an officer. Officers used pepper spray to remain unsolved and 1,775 people are still A large majority of people from all eth- to prepare a national strategy for dealing subdue the pair and arrested them. One officer missing. nic groups interviewed for the survey with the past. had to go to hospital for treatment of his The UNDP survey found that 63.2 per agreed that “civilian victims, regardless The UNDP survey’s authors inter- injuries. cent of those questioned believed that of their ethnicity, should receive material viewed 850 ethnic Albanians, 200 ethnic Up to this point, the story is an all too typical finding the truth about war crimes com- reparations for their suffering”. Serbs and 200 people of other ethnicities. case of an assault on a police officer. But the sub- sequent chain of events is more troubling. The Grabovci brothers were freed in a matter of hours. A state prosecutor assigned to the EU-Funded Serb Municipal night shift, Merrushe Llugiqi, ordered their release, having downgraded the charges from felonies to misdemeanors, citing a lack of evi- dence. Footage from surveillance cameras at the Buildings Hit Delays gas station, which captured the incident, myste- riously disappeared during the night. Brussels wants to know why new local authority HQs in Gracanica and Klokot are months behind schedule. Llugiqi also reported that the officer who was strengthening local governance in minor- attacked did not provide sufficient information ity communities in Kosovo. in his statements to warrant more serious Officials in both communities told charges. By Ardian Lulaj Prishtina Insight that the municipalities This treatment of a case involving an assault are now having to pay thousands of euro on a police officer is highly irregular. The law per month to rent office space. usually deals firmly when police are attacked. “We pay 4,600 euro rent a month for two Thanks to the reporting of the daily newspa- he European Commission is look- facilities,” said Nada Brkljac, head of per Zeri, the public learned about incident and ing at why construction of munici- urban planning in Gracanica. “This is a the state prosecutor has re-opened the case and pal buildings it funded in two T is pursuing felony charges. Serbian communities is months overdue big sum, so it’s important for construc- Adem Grabovci cannot be held responsible for amid a legal dispute between the contrac- tion to finish and for the facility to be the poor behaviour of his adult sons. Asked tor and sub-contractor. ready for work.” about the case by a KTV reporter recently, he “The case does not involve the EU office A 2010 European Commission project in Kosovo, Iljaz Ramajli, declined to com- said the case was in the hands of the police and in Kosovo, but we are reviewing the case worth just under 7 million euro is funding ment. courts, and his sons were not above the law. with our contractor to avoid further com- construction of municipal buildings in Officials from both municipalities said plications that would cause delays in the Gracanica, Klokot and several other the company was blaming the delays on But the sequence of events still raises ques- completion of the municipality build- towns. problems with its subcontractors. tions about whether family ties played a role in ings,” the European Commission office in Sasa Sacic, representative of Zagorje A Kosovo-based subcontractor, Euro- an attempt to whitewash the affair. The handling Kosovo said in a written statement. Tehnobeton, the Croatian company which Ing, is suing Zagorje Tehnobeton, and two of the case is curious, at very least, and war- Gracanica’s new facilities were sup- won the contract for the project, declined other Croatian firms, for 664,342 euro. rants deeper investigation. posed to be ready in October, while those to comment to Prishtina Insight and The company alleges that it completed It recalls another incident involving the in Klokot should have been completed by directed inquiries to company headquar- construction work for which it was never Grabovci family. Last May, Grabovci’s wife was June 1. ters in Zagreb. paid, including work in Gracanica and shot at the family apartment. At the time, The municipalities of Gracanica and The company did not respond to Klokot. The case is currently before the Grabovci said she accidentally shot herself in the abdomen when she tried to take a pistol from Klokot were established in 2010 as part of inquiries about the projects in Gracanica Economic Court of the District of their young nephew - a keepsake from a former a decentralisation process aimed at and Klokot. Zagorje Tehnobeton’s lawyer Prishtina. Kosovo Liberation Army soldier. When police confiscated the weapon, it turned Editor-in-Chief: Parim Olluri, Jeton Musliu and Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” out the gun wasn’t registered and was therefore Artan Mustafa Donjeta Demolli. Arben Grajqevci illegal. However, prosecutors have not issued [email protected] any indictments in the case. Marketing, Sales & Printing: Lindi Printing Center Now, the two will have to contend with legal Publisher: BIRN • Balkan Investigative Reporting Editorial Team: Distribution: Copyright © BIRN due process. And that’s a good thing. Network • Mensa e Studenteve, first floor • 10000, Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, [email protected] But the case raises another question: How Prishtina • Kosovo • Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 Nate Tabak, Petrit Collaku, www.prishtinainsight.com many others have been swept under the rug? 4 March 1 - 14, 2013 news Hardline Kosovo Muslims Aim to Form Party A leader of Bashkohu says their party intends to change laws to ‘protect Muslim interests’ - and block the advance of gay rights by any means possible.

Bashkohu [Unite] applied on “We will be accepted, and this is a “There is no ‘if’ about is being accepted in politics. We will be February 1 to register as party done deal.” Bashkohu would be the first offi- accepted, and this is a done deal”, By Kaltrina Rexhepi under the formal name the Islamic Movement to Unite. The Central cially Muslim party in Kosovo, Fuad Ramiqi, Election Committee is consider- although the small Justice Party professional bowler and ing the request, which would allow frequently aligns itself with con- owing to “protect the rights servative Islamic causes. a Bashkohu leader. of Muslims” in Kosovo, a Bashkohu to participate in parlia- Ramiqi said that Bashkohu In December, Bashkohu took stitutional. hardline Islamic movement mentary elections. V would provide Muslims with a part in violent demonstrations “All those groups, organizations known for its street protests and “There is no ‘if ’ about is being voice that is currently absent for against the launch of Kosovo 2.0, a and assemblies of people that pub- links to the attack on the launch of accepted in politics,” said Fuad Muslims, and change unspecified magazine featuring stories about licly declare themselves against a Kosovo 2.0 magazine, is preparing Ramiqi, the professional bowler laws. the lesbian, gay, bisexual and specific group of people, and with to become a political party. who is one of Bashkohu’s leaders. “They should be improved for transgender community in Kosovo concrete actions, threaten the the sake of justice, truth and and the Balkans. rights of specific groups of people, equality, and in favour of science,” “We never will support the pub- are prohibited under the constitu- Ramiqi said. “When we enter par- lic promotion of ugly spectres,” tion,” Kurteshi said. liament, you will see what we can Ramiqi said. “We will never accept Florian Qehaja, director of the build.” the promotion of homosexuals in Kosovar Centre for Security Bashkohu rose to prominence in public, whether we enter the Studies, said that while 2011, when it organised a series of Assembly or not.” Bashkohu’s potential for influenc- well-attended protests in Prishtina The LGBT community “will not ing Kosovo politics is marginal, demanding the construction of a be allowed in society, even if inter- the organisation still poses a new mosque in the centre of nationals condition the prosperity threat to the country’s values. Prishtina. of Kosovo in exchange for rights “Every organization that tries to The movement champions a for homosexuals,” Ramiqi added. damage the constitutional provi- devout form of Islam, though While Ramiqi talks of entering sions on secularity in Kosovo con- some leaders of the Islamic politics as a done deal, Kosovo’s stitutes a direct intervention in the Community have some con- Ombudsperson, Sami Kurteshi, constitutional order of the country demned it and its supporters as told Prishtina Insight that groups and so endangers national securi- Bashkohu supporters at a protest in Prishtina. extremists. like Bashkohu are, in fact, uncon- ty,” Qehaja said. Kosovo Clinic Boss ‘Authorised Illegal Organ Transplants’ A handwriting expert told the high-profile Kosovo organ-trafficking trial that scientific analysis proved that a Prishtina clinic owner and his son had agreed illicit kidney operations. compared the signatures with the ities at the Medicus clinic, along clinic owner’s handwriting on a with five other Kosovo Albanians document sent to Kosovo’s health and two foreign nationals. By Edona Peci ministry, and had found that they The indictment says that 30 ille- were “written by the same per- gal kidney transplants took place son”. at the clinic in 2008. The graphologist said that Poor people from Turkey, raphologist Milazim analysis of documents signed by Russia, Moldova and Kazakhstan Tahirukaj testified on GTuesday that the majority Dervishi’s son also proved they were allegedly lured to the clinic of the documents authorising the were genuine. with the false promise that they operations were signed by Lufti However Arban Dervishi’s would receive up to 15,000 euro for Dervishi, the owner of the defence argued that the signa- their kidneys. Medicus clinic near Prishtina tures had been copied by someone Lutfi Dervishi denies any Y where the illegal transplants are else. wrongdoing, saying that he was M alleged to have taken place, or by The two men are charged with not informed that illegal organ C his son Arban Dervishi. human trafficking, organised transplants had taken place at his Former Medicus clinic in Prishtina. K Tahirukaj said that experts had crime and unlawful medical activ- clinic. news March 1 - 14, 2013 5 Public Preschools a Dream for Many in Prishtina While the city’s nine early education centres can’t accommo- date the thousands of children who want to enroll, most pri- vate alternatives are pricier and unlicensed. place was available,” Gashi said. Enrollment, at least officially, is on a first-come, first served basis. By Liridona Hyseni But Gashi said she suspects she would have had better luck had she “known someone.” Instead, she gave up, enrolling he roughly 3,800 babies born her daughter in a pricier private in Prishtina in 2011 are pre-school. Those can cost as much Treaching the age when their as 100 euro a month, compared to parents want to send them to pre- the 50 euro per month at a public school. preschool. Most private pre- But they’ll be lucky to find a schools also aren’t licensed. spot in one of the city’s nine public A father of another four-year- pre-schools, nurseries or kinder- old confided to Prishtina Insight gartens. Their total enrollment is that he used a personal contact to a little under 1,800. enroll his child at Fatostat. Besa Gashi, a doctor who lives “To register my child, I knew in Prishtina, spent two years try- someone, but I won’t say whom,” ing to enroll her daughter, now this parent said. Fatostat, like all public preschools in Prishtina, doesn’t have room for most children seeking to attend. four, at the Fatostat preschool in Fatostat’s director, Kadime her neighborhood, Ulpiana. Kallaba, insists that personal con- limited space in the 292-pupil accept children, but we don’t have “They wouldn’t enroll my nections don’t affect admissions school. the capacity to take any more,” she daughter on the grounds that no policy. The real issue, she said, is “We continually get requests to said. “They wouldn’t enroll my Expert studies suggest that daughter on the grounds early education plays a vital role in a child’s future success. that no place was available,” A long-term study published in Besa Gashi, parent the US journal Science in 2011 examined the effects of pre-school on a group of children from the as pre-schools in the Ajvalia and poorest neighborhoods of Mati neighborhoods. It is also Chicago. expanding the existing Lulevera It found those who attended pre- and Xixellonjat pre-schools. He school were 24 per cent more likely said the projects were due for com- to attend a four-year university, pletion in 2013. and 28 per cent less likely to devel- Meanwhile, 83 private pre- op drug or alcohol problems or schools are registered in wind up in jail than others. Prishtina, according to the The head of Education in the Business Registration Agency. But municipality of Prishtina, Halim most aren’t licensed. Halimi, acknowledged that the The Ministry of Education has city’s public pre-schools don’t have only issued four since it began the space to meet demand. licensing preschools in 2011. But he said the Directorate is Twenty other licenses are pend- Children play at the Fatostat public preschool in Prishtina’s Ulpiana neighborhood. repairing two facilities to be used ing. Photo News: Electricity Bill Protests Continue

Hundreds of citizens protested in front of Kosovo Energy Corporation head- quarters in Prishtina on Thursday. It fol- lowed several simi- lar protests against KEK since January. Protestors are complaining about higher power bills. (Photo by: Beta)

Y M C K 6 March 1 - 14, 2013 news

The Tregu market complex hasn’t paid rent since it signed a contract with the municipality of Prishtina nearly eight years ago. Prishtina Denies Market Owes 3 Million Euro Tregu marketplace hasn’t paid any rent in nearly eight years to the city, which claims it never rented out the land in the first place. says the municipal contract with Krasniqi said. “This was not a Tregu, itself a publicly owned reasonable contract.” business in the agency’s custody, The municipality, meanwhile, By Liridona Hyseni has prevented the full privatisa- denies that it ever signed a con- tion of Amortizatori. tract with Tregu or is owed any Tregu’s then director, Burim rent. Krasniqi, inked the deal in 2005 Municipal spokesman Asdren he sizeable Tregu market- with Sami Hamiti, then the chief Osaj recently told Prishtina place has yet to pay rent to executive of Prishtina, the de Insight that the city merely Tthe municipality of Prishtina, nearly eight years after facto mayor during the UN served as the guarantor for the signing a contract. administration of Kosovo. agreement. It ought to have paid the city Hamiti, now head of the munic- The contract obtained by nearly 3 million euro by now for ipal assembly, is currently fight- Prishtina Insight, however, clear- the site in Prishtina’s Industrial ing corruption charges in an ly names the municipality as the Zone as per a May 2005 agreement. unrelated case dating from 2012. landlord in the rental agreement. Curiously, the municipality does- According to the 2005 agree- Meanwhile, the Privatization n’t seem to have any interest in ment, Tregu obtained use of the Agency is trying to sort of what collecting the money it’s owed. land and the retail market for to do about Tregu and According to a June 2012 report three years for 32,140 euro per Amortizatori, which it adminis- of the Auditor General, Prishtina month. ters as former socially owned The municipality of Prishtina claims it isn’t owed 3 million euro in rent. has never recorded the unpaid Tregu claims that 5,000 mer- enterprises. debt on its balance sheets. chants use the complex to buy While Amortizatori has been Prishtina Insight reported in become a municipal enterprise. The municipality has also not and sell wares on a daily basis. partly privatised, the land that October 2011 that the “It’s impossible for it to develop recorded or made good on 650,000 But Tregu’s current director, Tregu occupies remains in limbo. Privatization Agency had violat- without the help of the munici- euro that a court ordered it to pay Hafiz Krasniqi, says the market- Two parts of the Amortizatori ed two requirements for the sale: pality,” director Krasniqi said. to Amortizatori, a former socially place is in no position to pay rent. Company were privatized in to have more than one competitor Privatization Agency spoke - owned enterprise that owns more “It’s impossible to fulfill the October 2010, including a factory and not to sell it to an enterprise sman Ylli Kaloshi said negotia- than half the 11.1 hectares that agreement as the revenues of occupying eight hectares, sold to under investigation, which tions are ongoing with the munic- Tregu now occupies. Tregu are small and cannot cover the Devolli Group for 2 million Devolli was. ipality to reach an agreement on The Privatisation Agency also the amount that must be paid,” euro. Meanwhile, Tregu is seeking to the land that Tregu occupies. Milk Scare Spreads to Kosovo and Albania Aflatoxins are produced by from other countries in the mould and can damage human region, the ministry said milk and animal health if they enter produced by Dukat of Croatia By BesarLikmeta the food chain in significant con- had already been sent for testing. centrations. Bosnia, Croatia, Macedonia AUV ordered the removal of and Montenegro have already milk from Albanian producers taken out of the market milk pro- ood safety authorities in Fast milk and Primalat, Croatia's duced by Dukat and another Kosovo have ordered the Dukat, and two Bosnian dairies, Croatian diary, Vindija , after Fremoval from the market of milk produced by five dairies amid Meggle and Zott. analysis in Vienna showed that fears of contamination by M1. Following the move by Kosovo, the amount of M1 in the milk was Kosovo’s Agency of Food and the Albanian Ministry of 0.006 per cent, slightly higher Veterinary, AUV, ordered the Agriculture announced that it than the legally permitted limit removal of milk produced by two would test milk produced by local of 0.005 per cent. Albanian, one Croatian and two diaries in order to determine if However, one Albanian produc- Bosnian diaries after initial tests there was a higher than normal er, Primalat, panned the move in suggested possible contamination presence of alfatoxins. Kosovo and said that it routinely by the toxin. “The National Food Authority, tested their milk, which was safe “These products are being AKU, conducts periodical tests of and met all necessary standards. withdrawn in cooperation with milk that diaries produce in “We use the best technology Milk is being recalled across the Balkans. (Darko Vojinovic/Associated press) Y the importing companies, await- Albania and in the past the pres- and our milk is totally guaran- M ing the result of fresh analysis, ence of alfatoxins has not turned teed,” ViganDervishi, director of According to Dervishi, the who he maintained were illegally C which will determine if they can up,” the ministry said. Primalat, told the broadcaster company was being unfairly tar- protecting the interests of local K return for sale,” AUV said. Based on information received News 24. geted by Kosovo’s authorities, producers. justice March 1 - 14, 2013 7 Kosovo Ex-Fighters Face Third War Crimes Trial

known as the ‘Llapi Group’, is set to start on March 25, a preparato- ry hearing in Prishtina con- By Edona Peci firmed on Tuesday, but the defence remains unhappy with the charges against them. he retrial of three ex-Kosovo Mustafa and his co-defendants Liberation Army command- LatifGashi (known as Lata) and Ters for jailing, torturing and NazifMehmeti (known as Nazi) killing Albanian civilians will all held command positions with- begin next month, a Prishtina court has decided. in the KLA during the conflict Three ex-KLA commanders will go on trial next month. with Serbian forces. For the third time since the case According to the indictment, indictment says, the detainees thrown out because previous tri- been proved “beyond all doubt”. first went before a court in 2003, from August 1998 until April had to show loyalty towards the als had already rejected them. In 2009, the three former KLA former commander and ex-law- 1999, they detained, tortured, KLA by killing a Serb. The Llapi Group case was first commanders were again found maker from the Kosovo abused and killed Kosovo In September last year, the EU investigated in 2001 and 2002 by guilty of war crimes and jailed Democratic Party, Rrustem Albanian civilians at detention rule of law mission prosecution the UN mission in Kosovo. for the torture and inhumane Mustafa, plus two other former centres in the villages of changed the indictment by In 2005, after a two-year trial treatment of detention camp senior fighters, will be tried for Bajgora, Llapashtica, removing Bajgora and Koliq from which concluded with guilty ver- prisoners. crimes against civilians during MajacPotok and Koliq in eastern the charges, but the defence dicts for the defendants, Kosovo’s They appealed against the ver- the Kosovo war of 1998-1999. Kosovo near Podujeve. argued on Tuesday that some of supreme court ordered a retrial dicts and in 2011, the supreme The retrial of the three men, To escape the torture, the the other counts should also be because the allegations had not court ordered a partial retrial. EU Urges Action on Kosovo Prolongs Kosovo Missing Persons Ex-Fighter Limaj's Detention Limaj has claimed that the case By Edona Peci has been prolonged to prevent him from returning to active politics By Edona Peci and so that EULEX can publicly demonstrate that it is doing its job he EU’s representative in in Kosovo. Kosovo, Samuel Zbogar, said He was acquittedof the charges Prishtina court has ordered Tthe issue of the 1,762 people in May last year but the prosecution another two months of pre- missing since the late 1990s war successfully appealed against the with Serbian forces was an “emo- Atrial detention for ex- Kosovo Liberation Army com- verdict and the case has since been tional bomb”. sent for a retrial. “I understand it’s an emotional mander turned politician FatmirLimaj, who is accused of According to the indictment, bomb and there’s emotional ener- war crimes. Limaj and the other co-defendants, gy behind this issue,” said Zbogar Ex-KLA commander Limaj, a also former KLA fighters, “violated during a visit to the Kosovo city of lawmaker with Kosovo’s ruling the bodily integrity and health of Gjakova last week, where he met Democratic Party, will remain in an unspecified number of Serb and members of the Missing Persons detention until April 24, an EU rule Albanian civilians and Serb prison- Association. of law mission, EULEX judge ruled ers of war held in a detention cen- “This is an issue that has to last Friday. tre in the village of Klecka”. remain open - it has to remain on Limaj is one of ten suspects in Prisoners were held in “inhu- the table until it is closed,” he said. the high-profile ‘Klecka’ war crimes Since the end of the late 1990s mane conditions, which included case, accused of abusing prisoners war, the International Committee keeping prisoners chained, cold at a detention camp during the late of the Red Cross has been arrang- and hungry, in unsanitary condi- 1990s conflict in Kosovo. ing contacts between Kosovo and tions, with frequent beatings”, the Tome Gashi, Limaj’sdefense Serbia on the issue, but progress 1,762 people are still missing from the Kosovo war. (Photo/Matthijs Gall) indictment said. lawyer, said he has appealed against has remained slow. In a previous trial at the Hague something, but you never know the decision extend his client’s However Kosovo and Serbia’s Tribunal in 2005, Limaj was acquit- what you’re waiting for,” detention. prime ministers agreed during “I understand it’s an emo- ted of war crimes against Serbs and MyrveteHoti-Kosumi, sister of “There is no legal reason [for it], EU-sponsored talks in December Albanians suspected of collaborat- UkshinHoti, a politician who went tional bomb and there’s but it is obvious that political rea- last year to intensify cooperation ing with Serbia during the Kosovo missing during the conflict, told sons are having an impact on this between their respective commis- emotional energy behind war and returned home to a hero’s BIRN. issue,” Gashi told Prishtina Insight. sions for missing persons. this issue,” welcome. She said that “hope has faded “I hope normalisation of rela- away that something will be done Samuel Zbogar tions between Kosovo and Serbia, with regard to the missing”. which we hope to achieve in this Pristina and Belgrade’s missing But of the 36 locations where [EU-backed Prishtina-Belgrade] persons commissions met twice excavations were planned during dialogue, will help to solve this during 2012, but the timeline for 2012, only 19 were carried out, issue as well,” Zbogar said. the future meetings remains partly because of security con- But he also suggested that “it is unclear. cerns. probably best to leave it to the “More pressure has to be put on “There are some problems with humanitarian field and not to Belgrade,” argued PrenkGjetaj, regard to some locations in the make it too political”. chief of Kosovo’s missing persons northern part of Kosovo. [The EU Some of the families of the commission. rule of law mission] EULEX says missing have expressed frustra- Gjetaj said that in the meantime, the lack of security is the main tion that the Kosovo government the commission would continue to reasons excavations cannot take has not stepped up its efforts to gather information about possible place there, but the conditions Y solve the problem, as it has prom- mass graves before excavations could be met if [NATO’s force in M ised. become possible again in the Kosovo] KFOR deals with that,” C “You’re always waiting for spring. Gjetaj said. Fatmir Limaj will stay in custody until his trial begins in April. K 8 March 1 - 14, 2013 neighbourhood business

Jobless Rise Adds to Croatia's Belgrade Aims to Restore Economic Gloom obless rate reaches new high of 21.9 per cent, the highest in a decade - and that's not the only Jbad news about the Croatian economy. US Flight Link The total number of unemployed persons in

News in brief News Croatia has reached 372,000, according to the latest After America’s FAA completed its initial inspection of Serbia’s aviation, Serbia hopes the US will official data, published last week. In January alone, allow Belgrade to launch direct flights by year’s end. another 13,800 people lost their jobs. Since the beginning of the economic crisis in 2008, Croatia has lost more than 150,000 working places. By Prishtina Insight A recent poll conducted by the local Gfk institute showed that 76 per cent of Croatian families do not believe they have enough money to meet basic every- day costs. fter the US Federal Aviation The average income of a four-member family in Administration, FAA, carried Croatia is now about 1,000 euro a month, almost half out the first stage of its inspec- A of which is needed to cover routine living costs. tion of Serbian aviation on February 17th, it will decide whether Belgrade meets the requirements to obtain certi- New Malls Lure Belgrade’s Big fication for direct flights to the US. Spenders Milutin Popovc, the transportation ministry’s advisor on aviation, said the ithin two years, Belgrade is due to get four main audit will probably be carried out new major retail centres, significantly in April. Wboosting the range of temptations on offer. “After that we can obtain FAA’s A new shopping centre called “Stadion” Category One, which would allow us to (“Stadium”) will open in the Vozdovac municipality establish direct flights to the US and in March. The third facility of its kind in Europe, other countries by the end of the year,” the 74,600-square-metre centre comes with a football Popovic told news agency Tanjug. stadium on the roof and four levels. Serbia lost its certification to fly to The ground floor will host a hypermarket, banks, bakeries, pharmacies and cosmetics shops, while the US in 2004, due to poor organisa- Flights between Belgrade and the US are one step close to resuming. tion of aviation governance and regu- the first and second floors will feature fashion out- lations and discrepancies between obtained FAA’s Category One, domestic Until the 1990s Belgrade offered lets, shops for children and electronics shops. The Serbian and US civil aviation stan- airlines could open direct flights to the direct flights to Chicago and New York 5,000-seat stadium will be on the third floor. dards and procedures. US with the possibility that other air- once a week. The last were in 1992, on Stadion will also have a food court with a balcony, Director of the Civil Aviation lines would also use Belgrade Airport the eve of the break-up of Yugoslavia. a multiplex cinema and a fitness centre. Directorate, Milan Zivanovic, told for direct flights to the States. US Deputy Ambassador in Belgrade, In the next couple of years Belgraders can expect Tanjug that the directorate had har- As Serbia’s national carrier, JAT, Lee Litzenberger, told Tanjug that the other retail centres to open in the Palilula munici- monised rules with international rule- does not currently plan to offer transat- US wants closer and stronger ties to pality, at Autokomanda and in Zemun. books and standards since losing lantic flights, the company is unlikely Serbia. “Air transport is one area in Category One status in 2004. to be able to start flights to the US with- which we want to support Serbia,” Macedonia Boosts Checks As Milk Zivanovic explained that if Serbia in the next two years. Litzenberger said. Fears Spread

acedonia's food safety agency is boosting checks on dairy products in the light of Romania Plans To Reopen Mfears of contamination by the cancer-caus- ing toxin M1. Macedonia said it was conducting more tests as the scandal about milk contaminated with M1 in Disused Mines Croatia and Serbia was causing widespread con- cern. Following growing expressions of interest in its mineral reserves, Romania plans to reopen some of “Macedonian milk is healthy and does not have toxins in it,” the head of the Macedonian Food the mines it shut earlier. Safety Bureau, Dejan Runtevski, said. According to Euracoal, Romania's gramme with World Bank funds to “We conduct regular monitoring in all dairies in known hard coal resources are estimat- close unprofitable mines. Since then, the country and that proves that our domestic milk ed at 650 million tonnes, of which 252.5 around 550 mines were suspended or is healthy,” Runtevski told the media. million tonnes are commercially shut. By Marian Chiriac The bureau has not ordered the withdrawal from exploitable. Till now, restructuring the mining stores of Serbian milk that Serbia has already black- There are still around a dozen coal sector has proven difficult for listed. mines in operation. In 2011, Romania’s Bucharest given the lack of foreign omania's centre-left government coal production was of 35.49 million investment and official unwillingness is planning to draft a law to tonnes, around 0.16 per cent of the to take harsh measures that might Serbia Signs 'Major Investment Rallow coal and non-ferrous-metal world total. have made mines profitable, out of fear Deals' with Emirates mines to reopen, according to officials. In 1997, Romania launched a pro- of industrial action. “We will draft a law to allow some elgrade said the United Arab Emirates has mines to resume operations. They need agreed a series of deals worth several hun- new technology and private funds, and Bdred million euro to help revive Serbia’s tat- the legislation aims to speed up the tered economy. mine-licensing process,” the Economy Deputy prime minister Aleksandar Vucic said Minister, Varujan Vosganian, said. that his second official visit to the energy-rich Arab Vosganian added that the decision state had yielded several major agreements for reflected increased interest among for- investment in Serbia. eign investors in Romania’s coal and “In four years’ time, the investment will come to uranium reserves. 220 million dollars,” Vucic said on Sunday after A controversial plan by the signing three deals with Emirates foreign minister Canadian company Rosia Montana Sheikh Abdullah bin Zayed. Gold Corporation, RMGC, to use Vucic said that an Emirates company, Mubadala, cyanide in an open-cast gold mine in could also put “about four billion dollars into Serbia central Transylvania to extract 10.6 million ounces of gold over a decade is in the future”, including investments in the missile not covered by the draft law, the minis- industry, agro-business and the building of a mod- ter added. ern hotel on the site of former military headquar- RMGC obtained a licence to exploit ters in Belgrade that were bombed by NATO in 1999. the gold reserves more than ten years “This is a great day for relations between our two ago but is still trying to obtain all the states, and what is even more important than this required environmental and archaeo- ceremony is that in the next several months, citizens logical permits. The company insists of the UAE and Serbia will see how serious our gov- that it will use the latest environmen- ernments are in establishing these ties between our tally-friendly technology and says it two countries, of which we can be proud,” bin Zayed will preserve local heritage. Romania may reopen some coal and other mines. said. neighbourhood news March 1 - 14, 2013 9 Gender-Bending Serbs in Croatia’s Vukovar Model in Bowie Video ‘Increasingly Insecure’ Serbs in the Croatian city are growing fearful amid threats of force to stop the official introduction of Cyrillic script and the Serbian language, a Belgrade official said.

Andrej Pejic, By Boris Pavelic the new face of the world erbs in Vukovar are feeling “growing of gender insecurity”, the director of Serbia’s ambiguity in Soffice for the diaspora, Slavka Draskovic, said during a visit to Zagreb on fashion, is Tuesday. starring in a Draskovic, who is to meet govern- ment officials and Serb minority rep- new video resentatives in the country amid grow- by rock leg- ing tensions over the introduction of Tensions are on the rise in Vukovar, Croatia. end David Cyrillic, said that “Croatia should react more vigorously to hate speech Public controversy erupted two Veterans groups’ have also warned Bowie. in Vukovar”. months ago after the government the government not to use using police Croatia should send “a clear mes- announced that it planned to intro- to help ensure the installation of the sage whenever ethnically-motivated duce official use of Serbian and controversial road signs. problems occur”, she said. Andrej Pejic, the cover model. Cyrillic into about 20 Croatian munic- Pupovac said that the introduction Her comments came on the day that ipalities where Serbs make up more of Cyrillic should be introduced with Croatian war veterans vowed to pre- than a third of the population, includ- “respect to all who regard respect as vent the planned official introduction with Pejic clambering atop of ing Vukovar. necessary, but at the same time not to of Cyrillic road signs and the Serbian Bowie for a kiss as he sleeps. Its introduction in Vukovar is par- worsen inter-ethnic relations in language to Vukovar “by any means In the end, everyone except ticularly controversial because the Vukovar nor let anybody misuse the By Prishtina Insight necessary”. Bowie starts swapping gender city became a symbol of Croatian situation politically”. The president of the veterans’ cam- and personality. resistance after it was devastated by The plan to introduce street signs Pejic was born in Tuzla, paign group, the Headquarters for the Serb forces in a siege during the 1991- with dual Latin and Cyrillic script ndrej Pejic has joined the northern Bosnia, in 1991. Defence of Croatian Vukovar, also 95 conflict. sparked a 20,000-strong protest earlier circle of models starring Because of the war raging in warned on Wednesday that resistance Milorad Pupovac, a Croatian law- this month in the city. Ain top music videos, fea- former Yugoslavia, his family could include the use of force. maker and the president of the Croatia’s law on minority rights turing in the mini-movie for fled to Serbia, settling in a “We will find 2,000 volunteers ready Serbian national council in the coun- says that a minority has the right to David Bowie's latest single, refugee camp near Belgrade. to prevent Cyrillic in Vukovar by try, said after meeting Draskovic that the official use of its script and lan- Stars (Are Out Tonight). They emigrated to Australia in force,” vowed the group’s leader, “no security measures would be need- guage in areas where it makes up Pejic plays the girl part in a 2000 when Andrej was eight. Tomislav Josic, in comments pub- ed in Vukovar” to install Cyrillic signs. more than the third of the population. manic celebrity couple who Discovered in his late teens lished by Croatian newspapers, “The process will be gradual. The According to the 2011 census, 34.87 have moved next door to a sub- and noted for his androgynous although he said he was “not willing to government will do its job, and we will per cent of the population of Vukovar urban husband and wife, played looks, his pictures have been fight” himself. do ours,” Pupovac said. are ethnic Serbs. by Tilda Swinton and Bowie. published in French Vogue, Pejic and his boyfriend in the Dossier Journal and other fash- video, played by another gen- ion magazines. der-bending model, Saskia de And while Serbia has a repu- Islamism and Bosniak Brauw, are intent on trashing tation as one of Europe's more Bowie and Swinton's outwardly sexually intolerant societies, Nationalism May Unite, Report perfect life. the country's top fashion maga- One night, they break into zine, ELLE, put Pejic on its New International Crisis Group reports says the danger is growing of a politicised Islamic Bowie's and Swinton's place front cover this January. Community harnessing frustrated Bosniak nationalism for its own purposes. Montenegro and Bosnia ‘Close to Border Deal’ By Prishtina Insight The Bosnian prime minister said there was only one dis- he latest briefing from the International Crisis puted piece of territory to be demarcated before the ex- Group, a think tank, entitled "Bosnia’s TDangerous Tango: Islam and Nationalism", Yugoslav states sign a crucial border agreement. warns of the danger of a fusion between Bosniak report on the country, published in nationalism and Islam. October last year, noted that "Political Islam is a novelty in Bosnia and Montenegro’s border demarcation Herzegovina (BiH), and its rise is seen as threatening By Milena Milosevic process with Bosnia, Croatia, Kosovo to secular parties and non-Muslims," the report and Serbia had yet to be completed. issued on Tuesday said. In June 2012, Montenegrin According to the report, in spite of growing con- President Filip Vujanovic stated that cerns about terrorism, the plethora of non-tradition- jekoslav Bevanda and Milo the border deal with Bosnia was being al Salafi and other Islamist groups that have appeared Djukanovic, the prime ministers of on the margins of society remain small. finalised and would be the first agree- A new report warns of the dangers of Islamism in Bosnia. VBosnia and Montenegro , said a ment of its kind between the two for- “Virtually every act of violence inspired by Islamism deal was close after they met last Tuesday in mer Yugoslav republics. has come from places where Islamic institutions – dže- president of the World Bosniak Congress, advocated a Podgorica. The large part of Tuesday’s meet- mat (congregation), mosque, madrasa and family – are vision of Bosnia as a Bosniak nation-state, arguing that “There is only one undefined bor- ing was devoted to the economy, the weak or absent, and many perpetrators have a troubled Croats and Serbs already have their own countries. der point, which I expect to be solved improvement of infrastructure con- past,” says Marko Prelec, the ICG Balkans Project That vision appeals to many Bosniaks, including soon in order for the two countries to necting the two countries and to the Director. some who are thoroughly secular, but it repels most sign the border agreement,” Bevanda possibilities of advancing their But he added that there was a lot of anger and frus- Croats and Serbs, the document adds. said. European integration. tration among Bosniaks, and leading figures in the "If this becomes the dominant Bosniak view, it is Neither official specified where the Alluding to Bosnia’s stalled Islamic establishment have sought to harness this feel- hard to see how it could be reconciled with the view- disputed land was located on the 240- advance towards the EU, Djukanovic ing to advance their own political aims. points of Bosnia’s other communities; persistent con- kilometre-long border between the said that Montenegro offered a good The Islamic Community in Bosnia has grown from a flict and instability would then be likely," the report two countries. example for overcoming such delays. religious organisation into an important political actor concludes. Podgorica usually receives praise “As we can see, Montenegro today is that has helped shape Bosniak identity, the report The International Crisis Group has called on from the EU for fostering good neigh- not lagging behind and it managed to notes. Bosnia's Islamic Community to foster a view of the bourly relations, but the most recent compensate for a delay of 10, 15 According to the report, Mustafa Ceric, the former state as a shared enterprise in which all groups feel European Commission progress years,” he said. head of the Islamic Community of Bosnia who is now equally at home. 10 March 1 - 14, 2013 neighbourhood Serbia’s Organised Crime Fight ‘Struggling Under Caseload’ The special prosecution for organised crime is buckling under the number of cases it is leading, while also facing political pressures. remained lenient,” the report observed. Zorica Zecevic, a member of the By Gordana Andric office, says that all prosecutors are in charge of several cases, while being involved in other investiga- tions at the same time. egal experts in Serbia are “Each deputy prosecutor is in questioning whether the charge of two to four cases and not Lprosecutor’s understaffed all cases are at the same stage, as and politically vulnerable organ- some are in front of the court, ised crime office is up to dealing while others are in the investiga- with its heavy caseload. tion stage,” she explained. The office is currently investi- “When it comes to investiga- gating and leading trials against tions, the deputy is the head of the more than 200 individuals, includ- investigation, but several others ing such high profile cases as sus- work with him. The number of pected drug lord Darko Saric and prosecutors involved in one case oligarch Miroslav Miskovic. depends on each case and its com- The department is running plexity,” Zecevic added. almost all sensitive investigations Dragana Boljevic, president of into organised crime and corrup- the Judges’ Association of Serbia, tion, including one into Prime admits the prosecution is strug- Minister Ivica Dacic’s links with gling with its workload. Rodoljub Radulovic, a suspected “The police are currently inves- high-ranking member of the Saric tigating 24 privatisation deals that gang. the EU has highlighted as prob- Experts query the prosecution’s lematic,” she recalled. capacity to deal efficiently with “If the prosecution for organ- such a large number of complex ised crime has to prosecute all cases. Chief prosecutor Miljko Radisavljevic is handling a heavy caseload. (Photos by: Beta) these cases, they won’t be able to The department, formed in 2002 cope,” Boljevic added. from politics and higher judicial entire quota of prosecutors and “No one actually has to pressure by late Prime Minister Zoran Zecevic also says the office authorities,” Boljevic said. judges. Two years later, hundreds them; the fact that they see that Djindjic, initially probed the so- remains understaffed, although, “Politicians influence judicial lost their jobs. someone cares very much about called Zemun clan, whose mem- as she put it, “We have grown sig- processes much more than any Domestic and foreign experts some investigation puts pressure bers were later convicted of nificantly since 2005, and now tycoon,” she explained. “I can’t complained of political influence on prosecutors. It’s not an issue of Djindjic’s own assassination in have 60 people working at the remember a colleague complain- on the work of the SPC and the bad intentions, just fear,” Boljevic 2003. office”. ing of a businessman trying to HJC and on the decisions to added. In January 2012, meanwhile, a The prosecution is not the only interfere in the work.” appoint or sack prosecutors and BIRN’s source from the court for new criminal code introduced a body dealing with organised crime Deputy Prime Minister judges. organised crime also points to an new model of criminal investiga- that has a capacity problem. Aleksandar Vucic, who is in over- In 2012 the Serbian issue of self-censorship. tion into organised crime, giving The special court for organised all charge of investigations into 24 Constitutional Court said that the “The pressure goes through the the prosecution the lead role in crime has similar problems. Each privatisation deals that the EU has SPC and HJS had demonstrated media. Imagine the judge who is in gathering evidence. judge presides over about five raised concerns about, ordered serious shortcomings in their charge of a case that has been cov- Prior to that a special court for hearings a month and is a member several high profile arrests in the work and had not appointed prose- ered a lot in the media, which organised crime conducted inves- of the trial chamber in several last six months. cutors and judges under transpar- writes that the defendant is guilty. tigations. other cases. They included the arrests of ent criteria based on worth, pro- “However, it’s different in court Some believe the office is now “This number of cases per judge Miroslav Miskovic and two former fessional qualifications and and with the evidence presented struggling to handle all its is the maximum [we can handle] at ministers, Sasa Dragin, who was demonstrated competence. there. If valid evidence is not pre- assigned cases, in spite of upping the moment,” a source at the court in charge of agriculture, and The court ruled that all the axed sented to prove guilt, imagine the staff levels from 13 in 2005 to about said. Oliver Dulic, who ran spatial plan- prosecutors and judges should be judge who feels a need to acquit 60. “Owing to the complexity of the ning and the environment. reinstated. The judiciary is now that person,” the source said. The department’s chief prosecu- cases, it is not possible to finish a Following the arrests, Vucic awaiting a fresh reform. Boljevic said that even the cases tor, Miljko Radisavljevic, and 16 trial in the course of one year,” the stated that he expected the first Boljevic said the changes have that the prosecution for organised deputy prosecutors, are obliged same source told BIRN. convictions by the end of the year. left the judiciary, and especially crime is handling now show how both to run investigations and Some experts have interpreted the prosecution, in a state of anxi- vulnerable they are. present cases in front of the court Subtle political pressure: Vucic’s statement as a form of ulti- ety, and that this element of fear “All the cases they are working in the name of the prosecution. matum to the judiciary. could undermine their ability to on now are cases that the prosecu- Last year the office was investigat- Analysts point to a separate “It’s a form of pressure. A politi- work independently. tor for organised crime already ing and prosecuting 220 people. problem facing the prosecution cian should not talk about what he “As we wait to see what will hap- had, but hadn’t proceeded with, The European Commission office. The sensitivity of cases run expects from a court,” BIRN’s pen with the reform, everyone is until the government changed [in progress report on Serbia, pub- by this department, on top of judi- source from the court for organ- worried about their jobs,” she July 2012],” she said. lished last October, notes that the cial reforms that have affected it, ised crime said. said. “It’s good that they are acting office launched investigations into have left the prosecution vulnera- “Only interested parties can “It’s an issue of self-censorship. now, but the fact that they have 115 corruption cases in 2011 alone. ble to political pressures. give comments like this, which You read in newspapers about a waited for politicians to point out “But, in the great majority of “The judiciary, including the means the prosecution and the case and you see that someone which cases should be launched such cases, the sanctions prosecution, is under pressure defence. influential is very interested in shows that they work under politi- “If a politician states something that case,” she explained. cal influence,” she concluded. like this, it makes him an interest- ed party, which is not good for the independence of the court process.” Both Boljevic and the source from the court say reforms launched in 2009 have left the judi- ciary open to pressure. “Our judiciary was left signifi- cantly weakened by the reforms,” the BIRN source said. The reform of the corpus of judges and prosecutors in Serbia Y began when the State M Prosecutorial Council, SPC, and C The Office of the Special Prosecutor Crime was investigating and the High Judicial Council, HJC, K prosecuting 220 people last year. were tasked with examining the The Special Court struggles to process all cases under its jurisdiction. neighbourhood March 1 - 14, 2013 11 Albania Struggles to Protect its Vandalized Heritage While authorities promise action following the shocking destruction of an ancient fresco by blundering thieves, activists and experts remain skeptical of their pledges.

long can be resolved with few more security cameras. Without creating new, well-fund- By Ben Andoni ed administrative structures, they maintain, the tragic loss of the fresco is doomed to be repeated. Theft of antiques became ram- ollowing public uproar after pant in Albania in the 1990s, as the the destruction of paintings country struggled through a peri- Fby Albanian medieval mas- od of anarchy and lawlessness fol- ter Onufri, the Albanian Institute lowing the collapse of the authori- of Monuments has unveiled a plan to install 88 new security cameras tarian Communist regime. in dozens of churches to protect Onufri’s fresco was wrecked them from looters. after thieves armed with axes and The head of the Institute, knives twice scalped through the Apollon Bace, says the Ministry of painting in the church in the Culture might also consider remote village of Valsh in late recomposing the old system of December and early January. guardians who used to patrol and The looters tried to cut through The shepherd scene in the Onufri fresco of the church of Shen Premte in the village of Valsh protect heritage sites in remote the plaster in the 16th-century chapel, to remove the aureoles of areas, if more funds were allocat- Valsh. the saints, but managed only to ed. Mustafa Arapi, one of Albania’s destroy them. Meanwhile, the Minister of most renowned restorers, says Culture, Aldo Bumci, has declared Widely considered Albania’s that because such sad incidents that his institution is reviewing a greatest icon painter, Onufri is have happened so often in Albania, number of options to buff up secu- renowned for his colours and he almost has given up hope that rity at heritage sites following the style, which introduced greater the country is capable of protect- disaster with the Onufri fresco. realism and individuality into ing its heritage sites. “After the latest incident, we are facial expressions, breaking with “The government has always discussing a number of possibili- the strict conventions of ties, like adding security guards Byzantine art. underestimated cultural heritage and cameras and other security “Onufri is for Albania what in Albania and the ministry is now systems,” Bumci said. Michelangelo is for Italy; just seen as more of an instrument to “However, the financial cost of imagine if someone attacked the promote tourism,” he complained. these systems is large and money Sistine Chapel with a scalpel - Lorenc Bejko, professor of has to be allocated for a long list of what would happen?” Auron Tare, Archeology at the University of monuments,” he added. an activist with the Forum for Tirana and former head of the The destruction of the fresco is Protection of Cultural Heritage, Institute of Monuments, says the unfortunately not a singular inci- asked. proposed security cameras project dent in Albania. The Forum panned the Ministry is a step in the right direction. Archeologists and activists alike of Culture after the destruction of However, a combination of solu- say Albanian heritage sites are the fresco, accusing it of trying to tions is necessary to protect monu- A statue of Onufri . regularly targeted by looters, who sweep the incident under the rug. ments from looters, he added. in the past two decades have The Ministry responded that “The cameras could help protect said. “What’s needed is cooperation wrought terrific damage to the despite its best efforts it could not them, but any decision to install According to Bejko, the way a between local and central actors in country’s historical patrimony. protect all of Albania’s monu- them should be taken only after a monument is protected should the country; coordination and con- They remain doubtful that a ments, particularly those located detailed study of each monument depend on a series of geographi- trol of local circumstances that problem that has been going for so in remote areas like the village of or group of monuments,” Bejko cal, regional and social factors. are ever-changing,” Bejko added. “In one place you might have the Arapi, the restorer of many of local community responsible for Albania’s religious icons agrees, protecting a monument, and in others the church or a non-govern- warning that in today’s complicat- mental organization could protect ed world of Balkan politics, her- it,” he suggested. itage sites risk being damaged not Bejko says that since the col- only by looters but also by extrem- lapse of Communism, the social ists. and political changes that have “We need new structures that occurred have forced the Ministry protect monuments and investi- of Culture and its agencies to take gate crimes against them, possibly a more proactive stance in protect- special police units,” he said. ing monuments and heritage sites. “Although [extreme] groups “We should strengthen educa- tional and promotional activities don’t yet target our patrimony, over cultural heritage and punish with the rise of extreme right- those responsible for damaging wing groups on all sides, that our treasures without exceptions,” could well happen one day,” he he said. concluded.

“Onufri is for Albania what Michelangelo is for Italy; just imagine if someone attacked the Sistine Chapel with a scalpel - what would happen?” Auron Tare, an activist with the Forum for Protection of Cultural Heritage, asked. Shen Premte Church in Valsh. 12 March 1 - 14, 2013 feature

Musa Berisha, ex-mayor of Decan Rasim Selmanaj, Decan mayor Teki Bokshi, lawyer of Apiko and Iliria Imer Jusaj, Apiko ex-director Serb Monastery Dispute Raises Tensions in Kosovo A bitter land dispute between an iconic Serbian Orthodox monastery and two Kosovo companies has sparked protests and threatened to damage fragile ethnic relations. blocked by the verdict and we won’t allow this,” Lushaj said. By Edona Peci Protesters at the gates

Tensions rose again at the urrounded by high walls, the beginning of this month when Visoki Decani monastery some 20 demonstrators were stands on a wide green field a S stopped by NATO peacekeeping few kilometres away from the forces as they tried to approach town centre of Decan in western the monastery gates. Kosovo, but visitors who used to come here to see its extensive Lushaj insisted that his group array of ancient Serbian wasn’t involved in this protest, Orthodox frescoes now find the which led the monastery to close doors firmly locked. its doors to visitors for the first The Serb holy site became the time in 13 years since the end of focus for protests after a contro- the Kosovo war, citing security versial ruling by the supreme concerns. court in Prishtina last December The Kosovo authorities and which declared that some 23 international missions in The Visoki Decani monastery has been closed to visitors because of protests. hectares of land belonged to the Prishtina urged all sides involved monastery, not to two Kosovo to respect the rule of law. ties in 1997 was unlawful because demolished because of the land not be a unilateral solution. The companies which have been But Father Sava Janjic, the it happened at a time when dispute and rebuilt elsewhere in way it’s being attempted to impose claiming it since the 1999 conflict archdeacon of Visoki Decani, told Belgrade was actively repressing the town. a solution is unacceptable and between Kosovo Liberation Army Prishtina Insight at the time that Kosovo Albanians. But if it was to regain its former unrealisable for us,” Selmanaj fighters and Serbian government it was part of a campaign to drive But in December 2012, Kosovo’s success and provide more much- said. forces. the clergy from the monastery supreme court rejected their needed employment for locals, A source within the local The monastery is one of the and make the last ethnic Serbs claims. “the municipality should have authorities told Prishtina Insight best-known Serb heritage sites in leave the area. The two companies appealed in insisted on restoring the old facto- that the municipality had a pro- Kosovo, established in 1327 and “This is a huge embarrassment January, alleging that the verdict ry where it was”, he argued. posal to resolve the dispute, which housing the grave of its founder, for Kosovo, and I am sorry the was “anti-constitutional”. involved giving some of the land King Stefan Uros ‘Decanski’, representatives of the Kosovo “The decision was taken Allegations of internation- where the honey factory used to be although it now sits in solidly government are not more active forcibly and it is politically moti- al pressure situated to the monastery in ethnic Albanian-populated terri- in resolving this issue,” Janjic vated,” said their lawyer, Teki return for other nearby land said. tory. It has been on the UNESCO Bokshi. which could be used for tourism He recalled that the monastery The current leadership of World Heritage List since 2004. Bokshi argued that the UN mis- purposes. The supreme court’s decision had been attacked four times sion in Kosovo, UNMIK, had failed Decan and former heads of the But the row shows no signs of has damaged relations between since the late 1990s war, once by to represent the companies’ inter- municipality have raised concerns easing, and Father Janjic has the monastery and the local com- rocket fire. ests at the supreme court and about alleged international politi- accused the local authorities of munity, said Rasim Selmanaj, “We cannot allow the vowed to take the case to Kosovo’s cal pressure to keep the land in the stirring up ethnic hatred and head of the Decan municipality. monastery to be endangered constitutional court. Serbian church’s hands. “running a media and political “I’m very interested in having again,” he warned. “This is an UNMIK made no comment on “For as long as I was mayor, [a campaign” to overturn the good relations and common proj- attempt to evict the last remain- the issue. lot of] ambassadors and interna- supreme court’s decision and pre- ects with the monastery, but its ing Serbs [from Decan].” Imer Jusaj, who ran Apiko’s tional representatives came and insistence in taking this land is Since the war, Belgrade has honey factory from 1984 until 1991, met me, insisting the land has to vent the normalisation of rela- turning relations [back to zero],” repeatedly claimed that its her- when he said he was thrown out of be transferred to the monastery,” tions between Belgrade and Selmanaj told Prishtina Insight. itage and monuments are under his office by Serbian security said Musa Berisha, who led the Prishtina. Three mass protests have been threat in Kosovo, which is seen as forces, vowed to “pursue justice municipality in 2008 and 2009. Some local Albanian politicians staged so far; the most recent, a the cradle of Serbian Orthodox until the end”. The current mayor of Decan, meanwhile remain convinced that month ago, attracted some 2,000 religion and home to many of its “I believe in justice, but this is Rasim Selmanaj, argued mean- the monastery is involved in an Albanian demonstrators. most important monasteries. no justice,” Jusaj said in his office while that “the insistence of for- illegal Serb land grab. “We won’t stop protesting in Decan where he showed eign embassies that the verdict “There were efforts [by the peacefully. We can’t accept the An illegal donation? Prishtina Insight some documents has to be respected shows this is a Serbs] to create a Serbian enclave discriminatory verdict,” Adem which, he claimed, proved that political problem”. around the monastery,” claimed Lushaj, the head of the campaign The two socially-owned Kosovo nine hectares of the disputed land “If we want to find a solution, I former mayor Berisha. group which organised the companies, Apiko and Iliria, have belonged to Apiko. am ready to talk to [Father] Sava And as the dispute goes on, pro- protests, told Prishtina Insight. been claiming the land since 2000, He said that it had been a highly [Janjic], the international commu- testers say they’ll be back on the “It is not about the territory. saying that its donation to the profitable factory in the former nity and the people who lead town’s streets in the first week of The economy and tourism is monastery by the Serbian authori- Yugoslavia but had now been Kosovo institutions. But there can- March. neighbourhood March 1 - 14, 2013 13 New Probe Starts into Macedonia President's Death A fresh inquiry into the 2004 plane crash that killed Boris Trajkovski will seek to question the French air traffic controllers then at Mostar airport. Others blamed Mostar control decide to launch a criminal inves- tower, which was then run by the tigation. French military. Others claimed Prishtina Insight has obtained By Sase Dimovski that the President’s rivals in the previous statements of the Macedonia arranged his death. French flight controllers, Pascal The plane’s two pilots, Marko Faidide and Alain Lourdel, from Markovski and Branko Ivanovski, March 12, 2004, given to Public also died in the crash. Prosecutor Mexhida Kreso in s Macedonia on Tuesday So did Dimka Ilkova-Boskovic, Bosnia, before they left the coun- marked nine years since Risto Blazevski and Anita Krishan try. Athe death of President Lozanovska from the President’s They said they lost track of the Boris Trajkovski, the head of a cabinet, Mile Krstevski from the plane minutes after agreeing on Bosnian commission leading a Foreign Ministry, and Boris the landing procedure with the new inquiry into the disaster has Velinov and Ace Bozinovski, from pilots via a radio link. confirmed that they have started the security services. The air traffic controllers re-examining evidence. Trajkovski became President of explained that they took over the Trajkovski was head of state during the 2001 Macedonian armed conflict. Omer Kulic told Prishtina Macedonia in 1999 and was head of plane from Zagreb air traffic con- Insight that five expert teams from state during the armed conflict trol and, after establishing regular different countries will be working with ethnic Albanian rebels in communication, began landing on different aspects of the crash – 2001. He defended the internation- procedures at Mostar. some examining the state of the ally brokered 2001 Ohrid Accord, “There are three landing proce- plane and its instruments while which ended the conflict by grant- dures at the airport in Mostar. I others look into the weather condi- ing greater rights to the proposed one to the pilot, which he tions and other factors. Albanians. accepted. I expected him to start The aim is to conclusively deter- the landing procedure and tell me: mine what went wrong on ‘The procedure has been estab- February 26, 2004 when a plane Flight controllers face lished’ and to continue the com- crash near Mostar, southwest grilling: munication once the wheels were Bosnia, killed the Macedonian down,” Lourdel testified in 2004. President. Kulic says the new probe will “The pilot reported a problem Trajkovski died on his way to an want to hear from the two French with the radio navigation international conference in air traffic controllers who were VOR/DME device. Such a device is Bosnia in a government plane that the last to make contact with the located near the runway through crashed at Matic Brdo, amid thick plane and “who were on duty at which the plane receives signals. fog and clouds. Eight others died. the airport in Mostar in 2004 and The functioning of this system is A previous investigation by a began the landing procedure of necessary to complete the landing joint Bosnian-Macedonian team the Macedonian plane”. Trajkovski's wife, Vilma. ( Photo by: Sase Dimovski) procedure,” he added. concluded that the crash was an The controllers were part of The controller said the final alti- clear’…. then I requested he turn suggesting the President might accident, blaming mistakes made SFOR a NATO-led peacekeeping tude approved to the pilot to begin on the landing lights. From that have been assassinated. But he by the crew during landing amid force deployed in Bosnia and landing was 6,400 feet, and the moment I had no response.” never named anybody. the worsening weather. Herzegovina following the 1992-5 plane was eight nautical miles up After the pilots did not respond That probe established that the war. when they discussed the problems for ten minutes, Lourdel said they Conspiracy theories: crew deviated from normal land- Kulic, whose commission works with the radio device. activated the so-called reflex list, ing procedures agreed with in Bosnia’s Ministry of Transport, “Mostar Airport has no radar… which specifies all the institutions Andreas Gross, a Swiss member Mostar air traffic control. said they would also seek to hear but in France there are also many to be notified in the event of a of the Parliamentary Assembly of The results did not dampen from others who were involved, or airports without radar, so there is crash. the Council of Europe and a per- speculation into the causes of in a relevant position, at the time a procedure for landing in such His assistant, Faidide said: sonal friend, has also said he sus- Trajkovski’s death. of the crash. circumstances,” Lourdel testified. “When we did not get a response, I pected foul play. Some said the long time spent Any inconsistencies uncovered “The pilot’s concerns about the informed all institutions in Bosnia Ignat Pancevski, lawyer to the finding the wreckage was suspi- in the previous investigation will radio device were short lived and and Herzegovina, as well as the air family of one of the victims who cious as searchers took 24 hours to be passed to the Bosnian State after only ten seconds he said: ‘All traffic control in Zagreb that we died with Trajkovski, said he pos- reach the plane. Prosecution, which may then had lost contact.” sessed a satellite video recording The two controllers said that that shows a war plane shooting during a regular checkup of the down Trajkovski’s aircraft. He instruments at Mostar that morn- said the same video showed sol- ing at 6.30am, the VOR device was diers burning the crash site. working properly. Last year, he said the The new investigation, accord- Macedonian prosecution had ing to sources in it that talked to refused to accept his evidence, and Prishtina Insight, will focus on he recently said he had contacted exploring whether the landing the Bosnian authorities about it. instruments were, in fact, func- Confirmation of the new inves- tioning. tigation coincides with the ninth The Macedonian government anniversary of the plane crash. under Nikola Gruevski asked On February 26, Trajkovski’s Bosnia and Herzegovina to reopen wife, Vilma, his family, and officials the investigation last year. laid flowers at Trajkovski’s grave, The Macedonian Police at the Butel cemetery near Skopje. Minister, Gordana Jankulovska, Flowers were also laid at the graves said they wanted to reopen the of the other eight victims. matter after uncovering fresh Vilma Trajkovska told Prishtina leads in a report that the govern- Insight she did not want to com- ment commissioned three years ment in detail on the new investi- ago. gation but expressed “trust in The Skopje government passed state institutions conducting the the report to the Macedonian State investigation”. Prosecutor as well as the Bosnian She said that she believed “that Civil Aviation Directorate, the two states will complete the requesting a new investigation. investigation”. Trajkovska said Y Trajkovski’s recently deceased she could still not find the courage M twin brother, Aleksandar, fuelled to visit the scene of the plane C speculation about his death by crash near Mostar. Honour guards at Trajkovski's grave. (Photo by: Sase Dimovski) K 14 March 1 - 14, 2013 culture Kosovo Serbs Bring Southern Flavour to Belgrade Refugees are bringing the flavours of their old home to the Serbian capital. “They are curious to try our “We make it here for our guests. such kiosk in a side street that sudzuk (sausages) because they do All our food is made here in the does a good trade. not know much about them and restaurant and we work as a fami- Costumers wait every day in By Idro Seferi you don’t find them in other ly,” he explains. queues to buy their bread and restaurants.” “Our meat balls are made with other products here. Stari most is a distinctly tradi- pork, but are different and smaller Their burek, a form of pie, is tional place, with seats covered in than normal pljeskavica, or similar to the Sarajevski burek, When it comes to food, Serbs leather and lots of wood decor in Serbian burgers,” Petar Vasic made in the form of longer sticks and Albanians from Kosovo the interior. adds. and they also don’t use pork. The “have things in common,” says The menu is different from most Petar Vasic. “They like to eat with He says their cevapi are easier dough of the pie is less oily than eateries, combining ordinary to eat, too, because they are not so Kosovo-style suxhuk is served with usual. their hands and they like chilli,” Serbian specialities with Kosovo cevapcici at a Kosovo Serb restaurant he adds. fatty and are softer, as the meat is “I don’t have any problems here specialities. in Belgrade. He works in a small family pure and they don’t use pork. “We and many people buy my bread There are always cevapi, a restaurant in Visnjicka 18, named can call this a place for Kosovo “We can’t go without this food and and other products because we grilled dish of minced meat, Stari most - The Old Bridge. food,” Petar continues. chilli peppers, even in the morn- don’t use additives and we offer Kosovo sausages, and qofte or This traditional restaurant Like many people from the ing.” top quality,” the owner said. minced meat. started up 10 years ago, then in the Balkans, who make similar food Many Kosovo Albanians in Some owners of grills, bakeries All the food it is served with Karaburma neighbourhood. but with different recipes, people Serbia used to work in bakeries, and sweetshops don’t want to talk somun, homemade bread, which is His family is from Peja, or Pec as from Kosovo are proud of their and Serbs often think that many about their food because they served hot and baked fresh in the Albanians in Belgrade still work Serbs know it. After the war in restaurant. Every table has a small grilled dishes. don’t want to be identified with with bread products, though few 1999 they were among the many dish with minced chilli peppers “We have this food in common Kosovo because of the continuing such places remain now. Serbs who left Kosovo. used for seasoning. and are used to it,” says Becko, a problems between Serbs and Most of the owners left Serbia as On coming to Belgrade, they Kosovo sausages, the restaurant Serb from Prishtina, who owns a Albanians. a result of the conflict in Kosovo decided to continue their tradi- explains, are different from most little bar and pizza place near the “Even us Serbs, because we are and closed their stores. Some were tional cooking, as they had owned others because they are made with Vuk monument named Nivo, close from Kosovo, people sometimes victims of violence because of the a restaurant in their old home- beef. to the city centre. call us siptari (a pejorative term tensions, and several stores in town under the same name. After mixing the minced meat “We do pizza with Shar cheese for Kosovo Albanians),” Becko, the Serbia were attacked. “At first, we mostly had people with onions and a bit of chilli pep- from Kosovo and our guests love it bar owner in Vuk monument area, A few remain. Domaci hleb, - from Kosovo coming here, but per, the meat it is put in bowels more and more,” he said. shouted out. Homemade bread - in Kalenic later Serbs from here came as well, and lightly smoked. “We make pizza with sausages, “But I don’t really care, we are piaca, the green market in the once they’d heard about us,” Petar “You need to grill it well,” Bojan, too. This is something that I and all the same and some things can- Vracar neighbourhood, is one explains. one of the chefs and owners, says. my family love to eat,” he added. not be changed,” he concluded. Slovenia’s Alpine Pearl Wraps up Winter Season The last winter tourists are still enjoying the natural beauty, architectural heritage, sports facilities and cultural charms of one of the oldest Slovenian tourist resorts, Lake Bled. the Baroque period when the swimming the entire length of architectural development of the various rivers including the castle complex was completed. Amazon, and Haydn Welch from By NemanjaCabric Some of the castle’s rooms Britain, who has twice successful- showcase different epochs from its ly traversed the English Channel. past, with furniture and other The two men plan to swim an details from those periods on dis- ’ice mile’ at Lake Bled - a swim in isitors to Lake Bled often play. open water with a temperature of return home amazed by the Visitors can also take a look at less than 5 degrees Celsius, for Vpicturesque landscape of the castle’s cellar, herbal gallery which no wet suits are allowed. the snow-covered foothills of the and restaurant. Near Bled winter sports fanatics Julian Alps, the tranquil atmos- Although its charms are at their can also watch a sledging competi- phere, fresh air and excellent cui- most alluring in summer, when tion called Eurosank at the Sports sine. archery tournaments are held Centre TriglavPokljuka in The glacial lake in north-west along with concerts of classical RudnoPolje on February 24. Slovenia is surrounded by idyllic music under the night sky, it can There are several places nearby mountains and forests, is rich in still be a unique experience in to satisfy ski lovers, such as the cultural monuments and sporting The lake in north-west Slovenia is surrounded by idyllic mountains and forests. winter time. gentle Straza slope that is venues and offers a range of Perched on a rock high atop the equipped with artificial snow and ered evidence of prehistoric (11th painters. events from sports competitions lake, the castle’s great view makes lights for night skiing, as well as a to 8th century B.C.) and Slavic (9th Paintings, graphics, photogra- and art exhibitions to boat trips it a great starting place for getting cross-country skiing paradise to 10th century) settlements there. phy, sculptures and other various and hiking trails. to the wider Gorenjska region, as called Pokljuka that offers over 60 The first three-naved artworks by respected Slovene This part of Slovenia owes its well as the Julian Alps. kilometres of trails. Romanesque basilica was built and foreign artists can be seen at refreshing climate to the closeness Miles of hiking paths, both easy there in 1142. In the 15th century it Gallery 14. Permanent exhibitions of the Alps. Its abundance of and more demanding, wind was rebuilt in the Gothic style, are also held at Bled hotels Golf, sunny days and thermal waters Slovenian winter dream: around the frozen lake all the way only to be heavily damaged in an Krim, Ribno, Jelovica and make Lake Bled one of the most After a lively carnival that filled to the heart of the Triglav earthquake and reconstructed in Kompas. relaxing places in the region, per- the tourist resort in mid-February, National Park. Baroque style. The Church of the After refreshing their bodies fect for those who want to recharge there are still plenty of activities Tourists who come for an active Assumption’s current architec- and minds, visitors can fill up the their batteries while enjoying its awaiting visitors to Lake Bled. holiday can also enjoy inline skat- ture dates from the 17th century. rest of their leisure time by taking natural splendours. Besides sports and cultural events, ing and curling at the Ice Hall or One of the ways to get there is a coach ride around the lake or The magnificent 11th century these include walks along beauti- alternatively spoil themselves at by the traditional Bled boat called dining at Bled’s fine restaurants castle and small romantic island ful hiking paths to caves and indoor swimming pools with ther- ‘Pletna’. The pleasant trip around and tasting the cream cakes which in the middle of the lake, dominat- waterfalls, and boat rides to the mal water, saunas, massages, the lake includes a stop on the have become a symbol of this part ed by a church, contribute to the small island in the middle of the baths and fitness studios. island. of Slovenia. fairytale atmosphere. lake. After taking in the island’s The recipe for this delicious The castle, presented by Visitors that come here in the attractions, visitors can also enjoy treat took IstvanLukacevic, the German Emperor Henrik II as a Cultural dessert: last days of winter will have the numerous exhibitions taking former manager of one of the gift to Bishop Albuin of Brixen in chance to see a unique swimming One of Bled’s most wonderful place at Bled’s hotels and galleries area’s hotels, many years of test- 1004, is now open to visitors as an tournament; a sport that is really cultural monuments is the old all year round. ing and tasting to perfect. exhibition space which displays popular in Slovenia. Church of the Assumption, locat- At the Vila Nana Gallery there However his efforts paid off, objects dating back through Bled’s After a successful swimming ed on the island in the lake. is a permanent ‘Exhibition of because over the past 40 years ancient history. World Cup was held here three Legend suggests that where the Worlds’, consisting of works by more than 7 million of these cakes The display also examines the years ago, regular competitions Baroque church now stands there the most famous Slovenian and have been sold. changing structure of the castle have been established during the was once a temple dedicated to the Croatian exponents of Naive Art: Their crispy crust dusted with itself. In the late Middle Ages more winter. ancient Slavic goddess Ziva, JozeTisnikar, JosipGeneralic, sugar might be the only white Y towers were built and the fortifica- Special guests this winter will which was destroyed during clash- StjepanVecenaj and others. The powder remaining in Bled when M tions were improved, while fur- be Martin Strel, a Slovenian long- es between pagans and Christians. gallery’s collection also includes the spring finally comes and melts C ther buildings were added during K distance swimmer best known for Archaeologists have also discov- works by modern Slovenian the snow. international March 1 - 14, 2013 15 How Mom’s Death Changed My Thinking About End-of-Life Care My father, sister and I sat in the near-empty Chinese restaurant, picking at our plates, unable to avoid the question that we'd gathered to discuss: When was it time to let Mom die? of care provided to patients in that not fight through this as well? last year — how many doctors they Truth be told, I was already see, the number of intensive-care somewhat skeptical about physi- By Charles Ornstein hospitalizations — varies dramati- cian predictions. Just last sum- cally across states and even within mer, my dad's heart stopped, and states, according to the authorita- it took more than 10 minutes of tive Dartmouth Atlas. CPR to revive him. Doctors and t had been a grueling day at the Studies show that this care is nurses said a full neurological hospital, watching — praying often futile. It doesn't always pro- recovery was unlikely. They — for any sign that my mother I long lives, and it doesn't always asked about his end-of-life choic- would emerge from her coma. reflect what patients want. es. Mom and I stayed up late talk- Three days earlier she'd been In an article I wrote for the Los ing about life without him and admitted for nausea; she had a Angeles Times in 2005, I quoted a discussing the logistics of his nasty cough and was having trou- ble keeping food down. But while a doctor saying: "There's always one funeral. But despite it all, he nurse tried to insert a nasogastric more treatment, there's always one rebounded. He was home within tube, her heart stopped. She more, 'Why don't we try that?' ... weeks, back to his old self. I came required CPR for nine minutes. But we have to realize what the away appreciative of the power of Even before I flew into town, a ven- goals of that patient are, which is modern medicine but question- tilator was breathing for her, and not to be in an intensive-care unit ing why everyone had been so intravenous medication was keep- attached to tubes with no chance confident that he would die. ing her blood pressure steady. of really recovering." Also weighing on me was Hour after hour, my father, my sis- That made a lot of sense at the another story I wrote for the Los ter and I tried talking to her, play- time. But did it apply to my mom? Angeles Times, about a patient ing her favorite songs, encourag- We knew her end-of-life wishes: who had wrongly been declared ing her to squeeze our hands or She had told my dad that she didn't brain-dead by two doctors. The open her eyes. want to be artificially kept alive if patient's family was being urged Doctors couldn't tell us exactly she had no real chance of a mean- to discontinue life support and what had gone wrong, but the ingful recovery. But what was a allow an organ-donation team to prognosis was grim, and they sug- real chance? What was a meaning- come in. But a nursing supervi- gested that we consider removing ful recovery? How did we know if sor's examination found that the her from the breathing machine. the doctors and nurses were right? 47-year-old man displayed a And so, that January evening, we In all my reporting, I'd never real- strong gag-and-cough reflex and drove to a nearby restaurant in ized how little the costs to the slightly moved his head, all suburban Detroit for an inevitable broader health-care system matter inconsistent with brain death. A family meeting. to the family of a patient. When neurosurgeon confirmed her Photo by: Jose Collao My father and sister looked to that patient was my mother, what findings. me for my thoughts. In our family, mattered was that we had to live No one was suggesting that my reporter compounded my doubts. about that." after all, I'm the go-to guy for all with whatever decision we made. mom was brain-dead, but the I was fairly confident that we Plenty of money? How did this things medical. I've been a health- And we wouldn't get a chance to medical assessments offered no did what my mom would have mesh with his view that too much care reporter for 15 years: at the make it twice. hint of encouragement. What if wanted. But a week later, when I money is spent on care at the end Dallas Morning News, the Los As my mom lay in the ICU, there they were off-base, too? was back in New York and had of life? He said his concern is Angeles Times and now was no question that her brain Over dinner at the Chinese some emotional distance, I won- more about situations in which ProPublica. And since I have a rel- function was worrisome. In the restaurant, we made a pact: We dered how our thinking and end-of-life wishes aren't known atively good grasp on America's hours after she was revived, she wouldn't rush to a decision. We behavior squared with what I'd and cases where doctors push complex health-care system, I was had convulsions, known as would seek an additional medical written as a reporter. Did we treatments for terminal illnesses the one to help my parents sign up myoclonus, which can happen if opinion. But if the tests looked waste resources while trying to that are clearly futile and that for their Medicare drug plans, the brain lacks oxygen. After that, bad — I would ask to read the decide what to do for those two may prolong suffering. research new diagnoses and ques- she lay still. When the neurologist actual clinical reports — we extra days? If every family did "I don't think the best care pos- tion doctors about their recom- pricked her with a safety pin, she would discontinue aggressive what we did, two days multiplied sible always means keeping peo- mended treatments. didn't respond. When he touched care. by thousands of patients would ple alive or always doing the most In this situation, like so many her corneas, they didn't reflexive- A neurologist recommended by add up to millions of dollars. aggressive cancer chemotherapy," before, I was expected to have ly move. a family acquaintance came in Curious how experts would he said, "when the evidence some answers. Yet none of my I began checking the medical the next morning. After conduct- view it, I called Elliott S. Fisher. would say there is virtually no years of reporting had prepared literature, much like I do as a ing a thorough exam, this doctor I've long respected Fisher, a pro- chance for this particular agent me for this moment, this decision. reporter. I didn't find anything wasn't optimistic, either, but she fessor of medicine at Dartmouth to make a difference for this In fact, I began to question some of encouraging. Studies show that said two additional tests could be and a leader of the Dartmouth patient." my assumptions about the health- after 72 hours in a coma caused done if we still had doubts. Atlas. The Atlas was the first to I left the conversation agreeing care system. by a lack of oxygen, a patient's If more tests could be done, my identify McAllen, Texas, subject with Fisher's reasoning but I've long observed, and some- odds of recovery are slim to none. dad reasoned, we should do them. of a memorable 2009 piece in the believing that it's much harder in times chronicled, the nasty policy I asked my writing partner in My sister and I agreed. New Yorker by Atul Gawande, for practice than it is in theory. You battles surrounding end-of-life New York to do additional On Friday morning, the final its seemingly out-of-control can know somebody's wishes and care. And like many health jour- research. She, too, found nothing test came back. It was bad news. Medicare spending. still be confused about the appro- nalists, I rolled my eyes when I that would offer much hope. In a sterile hospital conference I asked Fisher: Did he consider priate thing to do. heard the phrase "death panels" But couldn't my mom beat the room, a neurologist laid out our what my family did a waste of The past few weeks have been used to describe a 2009 congres- odds? Harriet Ornstein was a options: We could move my mom money? the most difficult of my life. I sional proposal that would have feisty woman. At age 70, she had to the hospice unit and have No, he said. And he wouldn't hope what I learned will make me allowed Medicare to reimburse overcome adversity many times breathing and feeding tubes have found fault with us if we a better, more compassionate physicians who provided counsel- before. In 2002, weeks before my inserted. Or we could disconnect decided to keep my mom on a ven- journalist. Most of all, I will ing to patients about living wills wedding, she was mugged in a the ventilator. tilator for another week or two, always remember that behind the and advance directives. The frenzy, parking lot and knocked to the We decided it was time to honor although he said my description debate about costs and end-of-life whipped up by conservative politi- pavement with a broken nose. But my mom's wishes. We cried as of her neurological exams and care, there are real families strug- cians and talk show hosts, forced she was there to walk me down nurses unhooked her that after- test results sounded pessimistic. gling with real decisions. the authors of the Affordable Care the aisle — black eyes covered by noon. The hospital staff said it "You never need to rush the Act to strip out that provision decision-making," he told me. "It Senior reporter Charles Ornstein before the bill became law. makeup. She had Parkinson's dis- was unlikely that she would should always be about making is board president of the Politics aside, I've always ease for a decade, and in 2010 she breathe on her own, but she did the right decision for the patient Association of Health Care thought that the high cost of end- suffered a closed head injury for several hours. She died peace- and the family. ... We have plenty Journalists and can be reached at of-life care is an issue worthy of when a car backed into her as she fully, on her own terms, late that discussion. About a quarter of walked down a handicapped night — my dad, my sister and I of money in the U.S. health-care [email protected] Y Medicare payments are spent in ramp at the drugstore. Mom per- by her side. system to make sure that we're This article was published cour- M the last year of life, according to severed, continuing rehabilita- I don't think anyone can ever supporting families in coming to tesy of ProPublica, recent estimates. And the degree tion and working to lead as nor- feel comfortable about such a a decision that they can all feel www.propublica.org, under C mal a life as possible. Might she decision, and being a health good about. I feel very strongly Creative Common license. K 16 March 1 - 14, 2013 Guide

Here is Prishtina Insight’s guide to the best places in town to eat, drink, shop and be merry. We’ll keep this section updated with the newest and coolest places

Hard Rockers Club Fastfood: opening in Kosovo. Road Ilaz Kodra, contact: vraja_fatos@ hot- mail.com. It's one of the few places in Prishtina where you can catch regular live Bel Ami Restaurants: Stylishly designed and smoke-free, Le Siam acts and the only place which caters for Rr Luan Haradinaj, Tel: +377 (0)44 133 848, has become a real hit for the international those who like their rock served up heavy, or +386 49 133 848. The ideal town-centre stop community of Kosovo. If you are acquaint- hard. On a quiet night, it's quite a comfort- for a quick lunch or takeaway snack, Bel Liburnia 1 and 2 ed with Thai food, you're not in for any sur- able venue to grab a beer, even if you are not Ami unceremoniously serves some of the Rr Meto Bajraktar, tel. +381 (0)38 222 719. prises here, with the typical assortment of being entertained by hirsute musicians . best chicken doner in Prishtina in a surpris- There are actually two Liburnias opposite curries, salads and deep fried treats, deliv- ingly un-greasy, smoke-free environment. each other, both very similar in style and ered to decent standards. At 7 or 8 euro for a The Cuban Ask for a “komplet” to get the classic doner food. Housed in a fine Ottoman abode and main course, it's relatively pricey compared Road Luan Haradinaj Tel: +377(0) 45 620 620. packed with salad and sauces and wrapped surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, to its neighbours. Open Monday-Thursday This is a decent addition to the city's drink- in tin foil. Monday-Friday 9 am - 7.30 pm; Liburnia oozes atmosphere, whether in win- 11:00-14:00 and 17:45-22:30; Friday-Sunday ing scene, even if the place can be full of Saturday 9 am - 8 pm. ter or summer. The food is a roll call of 11:00-23:00. spivs and tarts who aren't going to a fancy- decent traditional Albanian food, including dress party. The Cuban-themed décor is the usual stews (tave) and grilled meat. It’s Clubs: Renaissance II decadent Havana, the food is average, and not the best place in town to sample local Rr. George Bush (behind the Pro Credit Bank not very Caribbean, but the cocktails are delicacies, but a good choice given the set- P1 HQ), tel. +377 (0)44 118 796. Renaissance good. 8 am - 1 am. ting. Open 8 am - 11 pm Fehmi Agani, +377 (0)44 608 669. If you’re offers arguably the best overall dining expe- looking for cool, then P1 is probably not rience in Prishtina. It's quite an experience Xhoni’s Bar Country House the spot for you. The decor is pretty unin- just to find the place. Tucked away along a Rexhep Mala, Pristina, tel. +377 (0)44 750 720. Off road to Podujevo from Pristina, right spiring, the music is bog standard and the tiny alleyway, you enter the homely, stone Xhoni’s is, without doubt, a Prishtina insti- after the Muciqi Mercedes-Benz garage, tel. atmosphere reminiscent of a cattle mar- building through heavy wooden doors. It's tution. It’s small, friendly and smoky, plays +377 (0)44 656 054. This rustic restaurant is ket. But if your thing is scantily clad 15 euro per head, and for that you will be excellent soul, disco and classic rock music a 15-minute drive outside Pristina (on a young women or packs of amorous boys, kept fed, watered and supplied with booze from vinyl and is open until the last man or good day) and provides glorious views than it’s an excellent choice. And, in the for at least a three course meal, including a woman staggers out. Arrive by 11pm at the across rolling, verdant hills and is especial- venue’s defence, it does have a pleasant wonderful meze starter and a delicious weekend to secure a corner, or even better a ly pleasant place in the summer to watch outdoor area for summer dancing. main course cooked on embers. Open 11 am seat, if you intend to make a night of it. Next the sunset. The overall food quality is - 11 pm. to A&A restaurant and has round windows. Working hours Wednesday, Friday, decent, with special marks for the fresh Opens: 8pm-to late. Shut on Sundays. Saturday from 9 pm to 3 am. bread, straight from the wood stove, and speca me maze (peppers in cream). 10 am - 11 pm. Bars:

Princesha Gresa Crème de la Crème 23 Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +381 (0) 38 24 58 41. If Rr Robert Doll, tel. +377(0)44259912. Crème you have a horse-size hole in your stomach is probably the best all-round bar in the city. to fill, this is the place to come. The meal It's run for the amusement of the young, starts with some free bread and dips and is arty owners and not for profit, which followed by gargantuan portions of salad, explains the more-than-generous pricing meat, fish, or anything else on this varied arrangements, especially for the perfectly menu. The food is sometimes great, some- executed cocktails. Its five tiny floors heave times average but always served in massive on Fridays and Sundays with Pristina's cool portions. Open 10 am - 11 pm. to the variety of beats. Every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 8pm to 3am. Hemingway Rr Ilaz Kodra, tel. +386 (0)49 145 637. Yes, you Filikaqa can get fresh sea fish in landlocked Kosovo. Rr Mujo Ulqinaku BL 4/1, Pejton, website Hemingway is tucked away in an unappeal- www.filikaqa.com; 038 244 288. Whistle, as it ing end of the city but worth a trip if you translates from Albanian, offers a dizzying are craving food of the piscine variety. It's a array of televisions on which to watch your pretty basic sort of set-up and relatively sport of choice and eat the best burgers in expensive for the setting, but undoubtedly town. Select a booth, ask the amiable staff to one of the best places in town for fish. Open tune into your match and grab a 'double 9 am - 11 pm decker' or 'triple burger', which look like American fast-food classics but taste better. Le Siam Thai Friday night Karaoke is a must-see, must- Rr Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 (0)45 243 588. sing event.

Hot Food: FRESCO (LEFT). Rr. Fehmi Agani. The newest eatery to hit Prishtina’s fine-dining scene, Fresco has designs on being one of its best. Forgive the excessive interior design - the food is is elegant and simple, with a gastronomic sense that in-step with the times. The salmon filet (11.50 euro) is a standout: succulent and flavorful, appear- ing alongside a sweet potato puree and tempura-fried zucchini. The steaks are perfect, too. +377 (0) 44 333 772.

PAPIRUN Tel. 045 26 23 23. Papirun has seating at two perpendicular counters in what’s basically a hole-in-the-wall just off Mother Teresa Boulevard, near the Grand Hotel. The menu has 13 options: 6 pizzas and seven sandwiches. The sandwiches are the stars, though. Every component is handled with care. The bread alone is good Y enough to make just about any sandwich into a glorious feast. It’s freshly baked and M seasoned with rosemary. C K March 1 - 14, 2013 17 Guide Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like your event to feature or to advertise your venue. Email [email protected]

Where to pick up Prishtina Insight?

A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. Hotel Prishtina Prishtina Insight has After ten years of Hotel Prishtina’s teamed up with these making pizza in 43 charming guest excellent venues to Napoli, and with rooms and suites are only love to blame, reminiscent of a offer a limited num- Fatmir, the head small hotel in the chef, returned to European tradition. ber of complimentary Prishtina. His piz- You'll immediately copies of Kosovo’s zas, made in a feel at home in our woodburn stove, living room, sipping a only English-lan- are definitely gen- glass of wine in our guage newspaper. uine napolitanas. fine restaurant sur- Fatmir also has sev- rounded by a gallery Grab a copy of the eral delicious pas- of paintings by local publication and settle tas on offer, a true artists. joy for the taste The hotel offers free, down with a drink or buds. Napoli has an excellent selection of red and white wines or, for fast wifi internet, com- a meal to read it. the more ambitious, one of the region's best quince raki. Napoli plimentary breakfast, makes for delicious lunch, dinner or even after-theatre time out in the conference room, centre of Prishtina. swimming pool, sauna and laundry service. Pizzeria Napoli Hotel Prishtina, off Luan Haradinaj, opposite Newborn St. Vaso Pasha nr. 20 044/409-402402 +381 38 / 22 32 84

Hotel AFA Te Komiteti Located in a quiet neighbourhood just Te Komiteti’s large trees and a beauti- outside the city centre, Hotel Afa can fully garden, which surround the small guarantee guests a peaceful night while outdoor terrace, give you an impression being within walking distance of all the of an exclusive place for ordinary peo- action. The venue has won a host of ple. And this is exactly what it is. From awards for its excellent service to cus- brunch to lunch-time snacks and special tomers and offers a good range of facili- evening meals, this restaurant offers ties, from an exclusive restaurant and dishes comprising quality, varied ingredi- VIP bar to pretty, tranquil gardens. ents, combined to perfection. Alongside Rooms start at 45 euro for a single, and one of Prishtina’s best ‘modern luxury rooms and apartments are avail- European’ style menus, you’ll also find a able. The hotel’s rooms are well appoint- good selection of wine, and great san- ed and comfortable. gria and cocktails . 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, Te Komiteti Sunny Hill, Prishtina Qamil Hoxha Street +381 38/225 226 Prishtina www. hotelafa. com +381 38 24 96 63

Paddy O’Brien’s Papillon Bistro Bar

The staff at This newly reopened bar in Prishtina, If you live in Kosovo and would like to Paddy O’Brien’s Papillon, offers more than 60 types of wines receive the hardcopy of the newspaper have a saying: “It’s from France, Italy, Spain, and Kosovo with easy to walk in, but great prices and delicious dishes. delivered to your door, you can also sub- very hard to leave.” They serve pasta, sandwiches, salads and And with its different appetizers. scribe for 13 editions, the equivalent of warm atmosphere, You can also try different types of local or six months, for 13 euro, including deliv- fantastic range of international beers. drinks and excel- The bar, with it’s stunning new design, is ery, or for 26 euro for the whole year. lent food, it is easy located in the centre of Prishtina, near Please note, deliveries outside of to see why. ProCredit Bank headquarter, RTK radio There have been centre, and the Mother Teresa cathedral. Prishtina may be refused due to trans- many attempts to port costs. establish a proper Papillon Irish pub in Mother Teresa Str. Nr. 51 A You can pay through an international Prishtina, but this [email protected] bank transfer or in cash at a Kosovo is the only one to 044 103 310 hit the spot. branch of Raiffeisen bank. From classic coffees to cocktails, via, of course, Guinness, you really wont find it difficult to select the perfect drink. If you are interested in subscribing please A mouth-watering menu of Irish specialties is also on offer, spanning from all-day breakfasts to Irish stews at night. email us at [email protected] Options include shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, fish ‘n with the subject "subscription", listing chips, and whopping great burgers. Thursday is pub quiz night, but there is always something what type of subscription you require. We going on at the pub, whether it is sport screenings or just a good will then provide you with an invoice and shindig. Paddy O’Brien’s bank details. Tringe Smajli Street, by the Illyria Hotel Y Prishtina: 045-420900 M C K 18 March 1 - 14, 2013 timeout

Theatre ODA Theatre

“The penguin king” 3D “The last station” Every day at 3 pm 8pm Thursday, 24 January South Georgia, alone in 8pm Thursday, 31 January Stellenanzeige der GIZ a vast ocean, 900 miles The story is situated in the year 2015. Nowadays and from Antarctica, and a past problems are carried in the year of 2015. Burim Als weltweit tätiges Bundesunternehmen der interna- more 100 miles long to is the main character who is looking for the truth, tionalen Zusammenarbeit für nachhaltige Entwicklung go. A wild rugged land- unterstützt die Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale scape with mountain for his family and his fiancé, which are still missing Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH die Bundesregierung bei ranges, vast glaciers, since the war of KLA ended. After many attempts der Verwirklichung ihrer entwicklungspolitischen Ziele. and windblown plains he finds out that his neighbour is still alive and that half buried beneath he knows more about his family. Burim can’t live in Sie bietet zukunftsfähige Lösungen für politische, wirtschaftliche, ökologische und soziale Entwicklungen in snow and ice. Three the present; he is always going back to the past, in einer globalisierten Welt und fördert komplexe Reformen years ago, the Penguin the memories of his family and Behare, his fiancé. King left home. Now he und Veränderungsprozesse auch unter schwierigen Halfway he meets a young girl called Shpresa who is returning to the Bedingungen. Ihr Ziel ist es, die Lebensbedingungen der place where he was reminds him of Behare and finally gets part of Menschen nachhaltig zu ver¬bessern. born and raised: Burim’s life. Penguin City. Based on the novel “Birds fly on their own” by Das „GIZ Büro “, sucht folgende(n) Mitarbeiter(in): Ibrahim Kadriu. Directed by Lirak Celaj and Florent Mehmeti Instrumentenbeauftragte/-r (in Teilzeit) “A Good Day to Die Hard” Cast: Besnik Krapi, Liridona Shehu, Ilire Celaj, Adrian Morina, Eshref Durmishi and Kushtrim Verantwortungsbereich Every day at 6pm Sheremeti. Unterstützung bei Akquisition John McClane travels • Verantwortung für die Nutzung von Synergien und to Russia to help out his Friday, 1st March - Tuesday, 5th March 2013 Identifikation von Opportunitäten bei anderen seemingly wayward Gebern und Verantwortung für die Außendarstellung son, Jack, only to dis- (11:00-18:00, last two days more flexible) cover that Jack is a CIA Location: Stacion - Center for Contemporary Arts der GIZ Kosovo und der einzelnen Vorhaben operative working to Prishtina • Wahrnehmung auftragsübergreifender und prevent a nuclear- Unterstützung auftragsspezifischer landes- oder weapons heist, causing regionenbezogener Funktionen auf dem Gebiet der the father and son to DOCUMENTARY PHOTOGRAPHY ATELIER internationalen Zusammenarbeit team up against under- Monumental Sculptures from Socialist Yugoslavia world forces. in Kosovo: Artefacts between Memory and Neglect Unterstützung des Landesdirektors und der Director: John Moore Programme bei Aufgaben der Koordination, Writers: Skip Woods, The atelier is part of the art-based action research Positionierung, Vernetzung Roderick Thorp "Recollecting the Past in Kosovo: Cultural Starring: Bruce Willis, Remembrance between Facts and Fiction", which is • Erstellt und organisiert Informationsmaterialien für Jai Courtney, Sebastian implemented by forumZFD through the course of Koch den Büroleiter AVs und/oder Besprechungen 2013. • Bündelt nachfrageorientiert Informationen aus den This atelier creates space for photographic explo- Programmen für die WZ Referentin / Botschaft “Zero Dark rations on monumental sculptures from Socialist • Einrichtung eines Management Cockpits (Bündelung Yugoslavia in Kosovo through field trips, discus- von Informationen zu VE, RV / RK, Phasen und Thirty” sions, theoretic inputs, interviews and by delving Verlängerungen, Kennzahlen etc) into different archive material. The atelier will be Every day at 10pm led by Marc Schneider - a photographer from Berlin Wissensmanagement Maya is a CIA opera- who has established a systematic basis of more than tive whose first experi- 500 monuments from Ex-Yugoslavia, and has exhib- • Sicherstellung des Kommunikationsflusses zwischen ence is in the interroga- ited his works in Germany, Austria, Bosnia and dem Landesdirektor und den Vorhaben tion of prisoners follow- Herzegovina, Croatia, Serbia, Macedonia, Kosovo, • Verantwortung für die zentrale DMS Ablage ing the Al Qaeda attacks Italy and Tokyo. • Inhaltliche Vorbereitung und Dokumentation von against the U.S. on the The atelier is organized in collaboration with Meeting und Konferenzen 11th September 2001. She is a reluctant participant Stacion - Center for Contemporary Arts Stacion Cca Prishtina. in extreme duress Erforderliche Qualifikation: applied to the detainees, but believes that the truth may only be obtained • Erfahrung in der (europäischen) through such tactics. Prishtina Diary Entwicklungszusammenarbeit, Hochschulabschluss, Director: Kathryn Bigelow Shuala Bar Punkt Deutsch als Muttersprache (oder Writer: Mark Boal Friday, 1 March Muttersprachenniveau), verhandlungssicheres Starring: Jessica Chastain, Joel Edgerton, Chris Patt. Music: Compilations of Friday, 1 March Englisch, der Willen durch deutsche TZ Instrumente 80’s by Shualla Music: dark wave! die Entwicklung des Staates Kosovo zu unterstützen, DiscoDominique behind With D.J. Pulsar Einsatzbereitschaft und gute kommunikative the bar Minimal - Techno “Hitchcock” Fähigkeiten. Mindestens 1-3 Jahre Berufserfahrung Every day at 8pm in vergleichbarer Position. In 1959, Alfred Saturday, 2 March Saturday, 2 March Hitchcock and his wife, Music: Sounds from Bass Sensation with Die Bewerbung sollte in deutscher Sprache erstellt wer- Alma, are at the top of Detroid (DJ Dooshine) Dagg den. Der Einsendeschluss ist der 15.03.2013, 15:00 Uhr. their creative game as filmmakers amid disqui- eting insinuations about Nur Kandidaten/-innen in der engeren Auswahl it being time to retire. To FLAT FOR RENT werden von der GIZ kontaktiert, um ein recapture his youth's Vorstellungsgespräch zu vereinbaren. artistic daring, Alfred decides his next film will STUDIO FLAT FOR RENT, IN ULPI- Die GIZ ist eine Organisation der Chancengleichheit adapt the lurid horror ANA IN THE FIRST FLOOR WITH A und ermutigt Kandidaten und Kandidatinnen aus ethnis- novel, Psycho, over chen Minderheiten sowie weibliche Kandidatinnen sich everyone's misgivings. Unfortunately, as Alfred self- GREAT VIEW FROM ITS LARGE bei der GIZ zu bewerben. finances and labors on this film, Alma finally loses BALCONY IN FRONT OF (FONTANA) patience with his roving eye and controlling habits Bitte senden Sie Ihre Unterlagen mit einem Lebenslauf, with his actresses. 15min WALK FROM THE HOSPITAL früheren Arbeitszeugnissen und Referenzen, Passbild Director: Sacha Gervasi AND FROM THE CENTER OF THE sowie ein Motivationsschreiben in einem Brief mit der Writers: John J. McLaughlin, Stephen Rebello CITY. IT HAS 35sq/m AND ITS Aufschrift „Bewerbung um die Stelle Starring: Anthony Hopkins, Helen Mirren, „Instrumentenbeauftragte/-r im GIZ Büro“ an die fol- Scarlet Johansson. NEWLY FURBISHED. CONTACT US: genden Y Email Adressen: [email protected] und M For any further questions or reservations call at 038 243 [email protected]. C 238 or visit them at www.kinoabc.com 044-262-272 or [email protected] K inside prishtina March 1 - 14, 2013 19

Prishtina through the Eyes of: the Eyes through Prishtina DiscoDominique Olof Palme International Center 1. What surprised you most about Prishtina? I honestly did not had any ideas about Prishtina before, but I guess, I am a bit surprised that the city is kind of ugly if you compare to other cities. Although, the people here make it an awesome place to be, definitely!

Tapë Uncorks Nightlife 2. What's your favourite hangout? In the city there are not many green spots, like parks or Cheap locally made booze and bites fuel good times at new spot in Prishtina’s centre. other urban social spaces to hang out, which is a bit sad. So I kind of ended up at coffee places and pubs. My most favourite a bar with a warm atmosphere in are Miqt, Shualla Bar and Punkt. But I do like to hang out at Prishtina’s centre. It serves home- my friend’s garage and jam. made raki, as well as a variety of beers and other liquors, and, of 3. Do you do anything cultural? By Donjeta Demolli course, Stone Castle wine - all at Of course! Every day I meet people and visit places. I also reasonable prices. hang around and play music with friends or play Tapë also offers delicious meze f other bars in Prishtina have to cushion the booze. records/perform at various places. There is a whole lot of cul- become boring — perhaps it’s As for hot beverages, there’s tural stuff to do around here and the underground scene is Ithe ordinary people hogging Turkish coffee and black tea. nice. There are some really interesting people to meet here in the tables or the terrible, old-fash- An eclectic soundtrack of blues, all art genres. They are all amazing and they share really fas- ioned interior design created by jazz, classical and old Albanian cinating stories about their artistic life. Sometimes it results the businessman owner — then music compliments the cozy Tapë is for you. in many glasses of wine. The coolest thing I’ve seen so far space, which is adorned with It’s kind of place that you can were The Glasses at a live concert - really cool local rock African kitch. take you from friend from stars. Also, my friend from Paris had an all access pass to a Macedonia or South Africa, with Rita Ora concert and I asked her to tell Rita that whole Tapë the comforting feeling of your Hajdar Dushi Street Nr. 2 (next to Prishtina loves her. aunt’s house. Zani Bar, Kada Books, in front of through Friday Tapë — which means “cork” in the Radio Dukagjini). 11 a.m. to midnight, Saturdays 4. What is the most annoying thing about Prishtina? Albanian but is often used to 4 p.m. to midnight, Monday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m, Sundays. I mean if you consider the fact that the city has grown denote extreme drunkenness — is from a village to a metropol in 50 years then you should real- ly accept the fact that it is how it is. Plus the years of civic struggle has not made the situation better for the citizens Photo News: Pomp on Kosovo’s Fifth Birthday here. I have met representatives both in the ministries and "on the streets" who believe that a change can happen here. I really hope that these people can make a better change for everyone here in Prishtina, since the citizens here really deserve it. The only "annoying" thing in this process is, I believe, lack of communication and belief in own initiatives. You know, even the small things can help to create a big change.

5. If you were mayor of Prishtina for the day what would you change? Hah, for a day only? Come on, you should give me at least a weekend! Well, I think I would gather all the international organisations that are present here. Then I would tell them to organize and structure their support in common, multina- tional projects with long-lasting results and better focus.

6. How many macchiatos do you drink a day? Hehe. I don't drink coffee. It happens very rarely, but I know that this city has very good coffee!

7. What's the tastiest Kosovar food? There is this really good joint, Aba hamburgers that has really tasty burgers for only 1 euro. I know that the idea of a hamburger is not very traditional, but the place itself does create local and traditional Prishtina burgers.

Kosovo celebrated its fifth anniversary of independence on February 17. The main 8. What landmark do you use to tell taxi drivers where event featured a march of Kosovo’s Security Force, police and firefighters in you live? Prishtina’s city centre. (Photo/Donjete Hoxha) I actually prefer to walk, this makes me to get to know my city better. Plus the air will get less polluted. 20 March 1 - 14, 2013 opinion Ecosovo Outside In Pure Kosovo Post-Independence Blues

By Kreshnik Hoxha By Elizabeth Gowing

aced with a leadership whose job description includes outra- o how many of Kosovo’s mountains could you name? Fgeous scandals on a weekly How many have you seen? How many have you hiked? basis and an opposition that’s inept, uncoordinated and incompetent, SArben “Beni” Islami, also known as “Hiking Njeri” or Kosovo marked its fifth birthday ‘Hiking Man’ has climbed every peak in the country, and also with very little to celebrate. taken photographs of all 160 of them from four angles. He is Very few Kosovars could forget the an inspiration to meet – for his energy, but also for the sense positive energy dominating the of potential he offers for tourism in Kosovo. country in the run-up to the declara- Because this country is gorgeous. The proof is in a new tion of independence five years ago. book Beni has just produced in association with the Ministry The same hope that ensured sur- of Agriculture, Forestry and Rural Development. Called Pure vival during 1990s was the exactly Kosovo and to be launched next week, it showcases some of same hope that also erupted on inde- his favourite images from the more than one million he has pendence day of Kosovo’s declara- taken in his walks around Kosovo. There are familiar sights: tion. The desire people had was a the distinctive peak of Luboten, Brezovica’s skilifts, rather noble and sincere one: build- haystacks in mountain meadows. ing a state that does not deny all those things that Serbia denied to But there are also revelations that are new for me– the Kosovars with a fierce diplomacy ‘heart lake’ of Gjeravica, the ‘Guri i shpum’ (‘perforated and ghastly violence. rock’) in the Lumbardh mountains. And wandering through But nowadays, it seems that an impact or changed a matter for ing the survival from the hardship of one beautiful landscape, a flock of sheep painted a startling Kosovars are dumbfounded with all better? None, results are rather poor. the 1990s. That sacrifice and good- red apparently for easy identification by the shepherd. the confused steps in state-building Every pore of Kosovo’s society is will which brought us to February 17 There are also pictures of Rudoka, named ‘Njeri’s Peak’ and the stagnation that persistently contaminated with cynicism. The cannot be diluted by anything; it because it was Arben who measured it precisely with GPS withers away the goodwill people vast majority of Kosovo lives by remains a historic effort. However, technology once this peak was formally included in Kosovo’s had for an inclusive country. doing the bare minimum to survive. the sacrifice and goodwill of the past borders, following the resolution of the border dispute with And it is precisely because of this Engulfed by high poverty, murky job would be insufficient today in justi- Macedonia. What his GPS measurements identified was that state of affairs that the time has prospects, and purposelessly wan- fying our deviation from the vision Rudoka is 2658m high – all of two meters higher than the offi- come for Kosovars to urgently dering youth, Kosovo’s fifth birthday we once had for statehood. cial highest peak in Kosovo which is Gjeravica. undertake an evaluation of what has finds the society more disillusioned I can also understand the demoral- The photographs in Pure Kosovo are mainly of mountains, been achieved over the last five years than ever before. And the polarisa- isation and disappointment of peo- but there are some images, too, of Kosovo’s beautiful flowers, of Kosovo’s fragile statehood. Did tion is so concentrated that even ple with Kosovo’s development thus the curious insects (including some great mating ladybirds), Kosovars work diligently in creating something noble like the independ- far. After all, we are led by corrupt the state they aspired – a state of goats, horses and plenty of sheep which bring the mountains ence anniversary falls short from and incompetent people. However, democracy and equality? Did we alive. There’s a great picture of Sharr cheese being made, neutralising the disillusionment. despite inept politicians, the respon- learn lessons from Serbia’s rather hung in flowery cloths to drain over old pails. Occasionally This is a sombre picture, but also a sibility for Kosovo’s state falls upon shallow practices of treatment of there is also a walker in shot or a swimmer in the mountain picture that should be a wake-up call its citizens, too. A country neither is minorities – staying away from dis- lakes, just as a reminder that these are landscapes that are for identifying the culprit. The fact born nor does it die due to its gov- crimination? Did we get all those of the matter is that neither the ernment or presidency. A state is also for human enjoyment. And amid the pictures of Mount things we hoped we would get after Constitution, nor the Ahtisaari Plan built by its own people’s diligence, Pashtrik above Prizren are photographs of the religious independence – equal opportunities and not even Northern Kosovo, the sacrifice and commitment – some- buildings constructed by dervishes who revere Sari Salltek, and welfare improvement? flag or the silent hymn are the cul- thing that has been rather scarce in thought to be buried here. It’s a good reminder of the awe and No, absolutely not – because we did prit. The Kosovar society as whole is the past five years. transcendental beauty of the mountains too. not work sufficiently for any of those the sole culprit for the state of the We declared ourselves independ- So this is a book to be savoured on your sofa, but also a and, what is worse, it seems that we country today, because in record ent from Serbia five years ago. But motivation to get you off the sofa and onto a bus, headed for all begrudged our collective efforts. time we deviated from the commit- now it is the time to build and nur- one or other of Kosovo’s stunning mountain ranges. At this Which minister produced outstand- ment we made on February 17, 2008. ture the state so that there will be a time of year, of course, many of the landscapes are hidden ing work? Which MP accomplished As a result, Kosovars today reap more prosperous Kosovo when we under snow, but from April Beni runs ‘Hiking Njeri’ tours something worthwhile? Even more what they sowed. pass it over to the coming genera- which leave from Sunnyhill every Sunday. Why don’t you join sadly, which civic movement made People might have been celebrat- tions. him, or go alone. Kosovo’s compact size makes it possible to reach all parts of the country on a daytrip from Prishtina, and if you want to make a weekend of it, then there are great homestay options near to many of the most beautiful locations. For Rugova, for example, contact Fete and Mustafa in Reka e Allages (045 383184) who will have you to stay in their converted ‘stan’ or summer hut in the mountains, and Fete will feed you her excellent pite and homemade cheese. Gjeravica is near to Junik where a tastefully restored stone kulla (045 394084) has three double bedrooms with traditional fabrics, and old wed- ding chests in every room, with a fabulous oda for relaxing in upstairs. Finally, if you’re planning to climb Luboten, the best possible accommodation base is ‘Hangjik’ in the village of Runjeve near Kacanik. Alan and Mary Packer (044 835075) a British couple, long-established in Kosovo and in the village, have restored an old house and adjacent barn with lovely old craftsmanship, wood and stone and thoughtful design using local materials and traditions. Meals can be provided using produce from their organic garden and the hospitality on offer is fabulous. For more information about Hiking Njeri’s tours, contact Beni at [email protected].

Elizabeth Gowing is a founder of The Ideas Partnership, a Y Kosovan NGO working on educational, cultural and environ- M mental projects. She is also the author of Travels in Blood C and Honey; becoming a beekeeper in Kosovo (Signal Books, K 2011). She can be reached at [email protected] opinion March 1 - 14, 2013 21 Can Albania’s Media Be Set Free At Last? Albania. It is hard, if not impossi- nered from all angles by special ble, for an outsider, used to the interests. Scandinavian model of the press, Financial woes and threats to Axel Kronholm to imagine life for journalists in reporters actively undermine the the Balkans. role of the press as a watchdog. However, from interviews with The press in Albania is barely any Albanian journalists and media longer a facilitator of informed ithout reform aimed at professionals, I am able to con- choices and does not set the agen- easing the current strong clude that self-censorship is a da for policymakers. Woutside pressures on the major threat to the media’s role as A more transparent and fairer media, the press can never become a watchdog. system of state support for media a force for societal change. As I set off in the fall of 2012 to The informal labour market outlets would be a good place to research press freedom and the sit- contributes to this situation. Most start serious long-term reform, uation of journalists in Albania, Albanian journalists work with- leading to a healthier media cli- the first thing I realised was that out any contracts. Publishers also mate. repressive legislation is not the frequently violate labour rights Use of government funds cur- main problem. regarding payment and vacation rently spent on advertising to cre- Considering the country’s rela- time. ate an un-biased system of press tively recent history of authoritar- Journalists in Albania are con- subsidies, based purely on circula- ian rule, Albania’s media legisla- stantly on their guard, viewing tion, would limit the media’s tion is understandably liberal and self-censorship and self-restraint dependance on business and polit- free. as necessary not only for their jobs ical interests and prevent the gov- However, the press and broad- and careers, but for their own per- ernment from skewing the compe- cast media are still clouded by cen- sonal safety. tition by distributing its money Questions about freedom in Albania’s media. sorship. Most journalists I interviewed based on the outlet’s political affil- For a country like Albania, One example of the problem are media partners will have conse- have their own stories of violence iation. which is eager to modernize, deal the methods that the political elite quences for their relations with or threats of violence. The pure This would also require with deep-rooted corruption and uses to exert influence over the the state. This puts critically notion of risk and its possible con- improved transparency on behalf join the European Union, the issue media. minded media at an even bigger sequences keeps journalists on of the media with regards to circu- of the state of the media could The difficult financial situation disadvantage compared to other their toes, forcing them to think lation, the number of employees hardly be more pressing, consider- of the Albanian media renders outlets and skews the competition carefully about what they intend and so on. ing its potential in working as a them vulnerable to special inter- in the market. to report. Whichever way this is eventual- catalyst for change. ests. What is financially rewarded is Such questions become almost ly dealt with, these issues deserve But a worrying downward trend The government wields consid- not primarily the circulation, or existential in an environment of their spot in the public debate and shows that this potential is being erable power. Using its budget for the quality of reporting, but the stifling corruption. should be taken seriously by the squandered. In international public information campaigns, it political allegiance of the media Albania has a large number of political elite. indexes of press freedom and cor- is able to reward government- outlets in question. dedicated and talented journalists ruption, Albania continues to drop friendly outlets for their reporting This relationship between gov- who, despite this inhospitable Axel Kronholm is a freelance in the rankings. and punish more critical voices by ernment and private enterprises is environment and the overwhelm- Finnish journalist who researched From being in 34th place in handing advertising to competi- detrimental both to the open mar- ing pressure, do their best to report freedom of the press in Albania Reporters Without Borders’ Press tors. ket and to journalism. and investigate wrongdoing. for his bachelor thesis. Freedom Index in 2003, Albania Private advertising is run on Another major factor restricting But the media as a democratic His thesis can be read at: had dropped to 102nd place in their similar principles. Business own- the freedom of the press is the sit- institution and as a force for socie- http://axelkronholm.com/press- latest report. ers know that their choice of uation of most journalists in tal change is on its knees, cor- freedom-in-albania/ The Easy Route to Extra Cash in Serbia Belgrade’s decision to give Hague war crimes defendants more financial support when the country is so short of money says much about the nation’s priorities. Tribunal brought two verdicts that el expenses for the family, plus addi- year. Are their crimes different? made Serbia angry. The trial tional health care – all that for around And this is just one part of the What is the difference between chamber acquitted two Croatian 40 Serbs who are either still before the problem; did the state give the Ratko Mladic and Srecko generals and three Kosovo Hague Tribunal or who money because they believe that Popovic? The first is suspected of By \Marija Ristic Liberation Army commanders of have already been the ICTY defendants are innocent killing more than 7,000 people in war crimes against Serbs dur- convicted. or because we realised that we Bosnia, the second one more than ing the 1990s. made a mistake by sending them 100. Both men pleaded not guilty. n this time of economic crisis Many Serbs felt to Hague, as our minister says? Or The main difference is that no it is always hard to get hold of betrayed, and the feeling are they enduring very bad condi- one knows about Srecko Popovic. Iextra cash. However, there are of injustice remains. tions in prisons across Europe? So, giving him a monthly ways to do that in Serbia, especial- And that is OK. What is After all, the former Bosnian allowance doesn’t have the same ly if you are a defendant at the not OK is what the Serb commander, Ratko effect as giving money to Mladic, International Criminal Tribunal Serbian government Mladic, lost 20 kilos at a hero to Serbs on both sides of for the Former Yugoslavia. then did, which was to The Hague, so the river Drina. Almost every day in the Serbian use this moment for minister argues. I can come up with just a few news you can hear how dire the their own nationalistic And here we reasons why the money went to economy is, how there is no money agenda, by bringing back the come to the other the Hague defendants. For sure, it for salaries, for youth employ- rhetoric of the 1990s. part of the prob- is not because Serbia is a rich ment, for social benefits, health It is not that just the govern- lem; Serbia is not country with cash to spare. It is care, culture and many other ment that used this moment. Serbs treating all its cit- because this government never things. The list is long. standing before the ICTY for war izens equally, faced the past and the crimes that But if you are smart you can crimes also used the same oppor- despite what the con- were committed in the name of always find a way to ask for a rise. tunity to complain about their stitution says. Why do Serbia. It is because parts of this It is always about the moment. “rights”. They cooked a few cheese local war criminals or war government supported or formed That is why school teachers go on pies, bought some chocolates and crime suspects not receive the part of the regime of Slobodan strike just before the academic asked the country’s justice minis- During same extra 200 euro plus travel Milosevic. It is because they are year starts, or farmers block high- ter to pay them a visit. And, during the course of costs for their families? Where is negotiating with Hashim Thaci, ways in summer, just as the their joint lunch, they asked for a last year, the money for the 400 people facing their former enemy. It is because tourists pass through Serbia. And little more money. Serbia gave war crime charges in Belgrade they are risking votes by picking that is how you put your govern- This resulted in a government around 145,000 euro courts? I am sure that our justice Europe over Kosovo. ment in the corner, so inevitably decision to increase state funds for to 16 ICTY defendants. That is minister would agree that condi- So, what is the easiest way to they give you a rise, or some addi- ICTY defendants - and not just equivalent to around 400 average tions in Serbian prisons are far show that you still didn’t give up tional form of financial aid. As I defendants, but also for those who salaries in Serbia. Simple arith- worse than those in Europe. Or on nationalism? Just have a few said, it is all about picking the have been convicted by the court. metic shows that the amount of are the local war criminals not bites of chocolate with Mladic - right moment. Some 200 euro per month, plus trav- money given will be doubled this important as those at the ICTY? and give him some cash. Last November, the Hague

If you would like your NGO to appear in our Making a Difference feature, please email [email protected] 22 March 1 - 14, 2013 Life in Focus

Artifacts Back in Kosovo

Seven artifacts are displayed at Kosovo’s Archaeology Museum. They were found in Germany during a police raid there. The arti- facts are believed to have been stolen during the 1998-99 Kosovo war. (AP Photo/Visar Kryeziu)

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