ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams

Maryland’s Assateague State Park hosts a herd of wild horses and much more A Gathering of Horses ssateague Island sand one late-summer morning to — The ponies greet study the equine parade. the dawn at water’s Like many we met, Bower, is edge, frothy ocean an Assateague devotee — commit- Centuries ago, a A foam lapping at their fetlocks, tails ted to bringing her Alpenlite fifth- different breed of sea flicking in the morning breeze. wheel to this unique setting at least horses washed ashore At first glance, they appear once a year. She’s drawn by the on the windswept magnificent and scruffy and surre- beach, the novelty of the ponies and al, like statues scattered across the the sheer affordability of camping barrier island sand. Slowly, they saunter along the here ($30 a night for sites without that is now Assateague damp hard-pack — as comfortable electricity, $40 for sites with hook- Island National here as the seagulls and sandpipers ups.) And on , Seashore. Today, herds that patrol the beach. those with campers or motorhomes On this windswept barrier enjoy distinct advantages against of wild horses island, part of the Assateague Island the elements. co-habitat with visitors National Seashore, these ponies are “It’s the ponies,” Bower chuck- seeking a unique beach truly at home. led. “They pretty much run the experience and easy, Assateague Island represents place. If you leave food out at a unique sanctuary to wild hors- your campsite, they can chew a family friendly camping. es. It’s the campers who flock to hole through a nylon tent to reach This is a spot where Maryland’s only ocean state park it. And they’re smart — they even you’ll want to return. who are outsiders, a curiosity to the know how to open coolers.” resident horses. It’s not unusual to awaken to “I never quite get used to see- a snuffling muzzle just outside ing them, and yet I never tire of your screen door or ponies grazing it,” acknowledged Julie Bower, of beside your RV. In fact, you have Washington, D.C., who sat in the to remind yourself that they are,  Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 ROUTE 66 Road Trip Wild horses have roamed the beaches and marshlands at Assateague State Park for nearly three centuries. Today, at least two separate herds have been documented along Maryland’s 37-mile barrier island. A Gathering of Horses

 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 don’t forget

• Bug repellent for indeed, wild and have occasionally mosquitoes and black been known to bite or kick. flies Since the animals enjoy a pro- • Extra-long sand stakes for shade tents tected status, feeding and petting and shelters them is prohibited. That can make • Binoculars for bird- for some odd encounters, especially watching when they wander alongside your • Surf fishing gear picnic table or roam the roadways • Camera at night, like oversized raccoons. Still, there is something about Route 66 the freedom of these horses — Regional ROUTE 66 wind-tossed manes, the haughty RV Network Dealers: confidence that they’ve earned the McGeorge’s right to be here — that visitors find Rolling Hills RV mesmerizing. 11525 Sun Shade Lane Ashland, VA 23005 “I think they represent some- 804-550-7323 thing that we all yearn for — an unfettered quality, a fundamental Hitcharama RV wildness, perhaps — that I find 4121 Route 42 really appealing,” Bower said. Turnersville, NJ 08012 856-629-7400 Camping quitoes in check. Campgrounds of low nylon tents, pop-up trail- Dewalt’s RV Among Horses stretch across an open setting, with ers, motorcoaches and other RVs 270 Country Club Dr. Legend holds that horses first more low brush than trees and few tucked snugly next to each other in Easton, PA 18045 came to Assateague when a Spanish privacy barriers. Still, you’ll see apparent harmony. 610-258-0486 galleon loaded with equine cargo plenty of birds and other wildlife, Assateague State Park offers Gayle Kline RV Center went down off the Maryland coast, including small Sika deer. 350 campsites within a series of 10 444 E. Main St. sometime in the 1600s. Today’s Signs urge you to stay off the camping loops tucked among dunes Mountville, PA 17554 wild ponies are thought by some to sand dunes and to watch for horses and hillocks only a short walk over 717-285-2008 be the offspring of the horses that and deer on the roads. Pets are a sand berm to the seashore. survived to swim ashore, or so the not allowed. Close your eyes at night, and story goes. Gaze across most camping you can hear the hard, whispery Good Eats, What is certain is that hors- loops and you’ll see a scattered mix crash of waves — the perfect eve- Great Sites: es have grazed the beach grass and nearby salt marshes here for • Assateague Camp Store for hand-dipped at least three centuries, inspiring ice cream the children’s novel, “Misty of • Assateague State Chincoteague.” Park Nature Center There are now thought to be at • Chincoteague least two separate herds of wild National Wildlife Refuge horses that roam 37-mile-long • Jonah and the Whale, Assateague Island. Ocean City, Md. The name Assateague derives • Local produce stands from a Native American word that for fresh fruit, veggies roughly translates to mean “the • Phillips Seafood House, Ocean City, Md. marshy place across.” The island • Smoker’s BBQ Pit, presents a unique ecology, flanked West Ocean City, Md. to the west by and • Trimper’s Amusement to the east by the Atlantic Ocean. Park, Ocean City, Md. Campsites bring you closer to • Waterman’s Seafood Company, Ocean the ocean than the marshes and City, Md. backside bay waters — a welcome location. The ocean breeze helps Camping spots with hookups are limited, so make reservations well in keep biting black flies and mos- advance. But with plenty of bathhouses nearby, dry camping is no hardship.

 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 Photo courtesy of Maryland Department of Natural Resources. Natural of Department Maryland of courtesy Photo Photo courtesy of Maryland Department of Natural Resources. Natural of Department Maryland of courtesy Photo

Wild horses enjoy a protected status at Assateague State Park, so petting or feeding them is discouraged. But don’t be surprised to find them grazing at your campsite. (upper right, top) Bay waters offer a chance to explore the region by kayak or canoe. (upper right, bottom) Miles of soft sand invite leisurely strolls. Surrender to the urge to cool your feet in the Atlantic Ocean. ning lullaby. Open your windows bothersome, and wind gusts will to feel the cool ocean breeze. make you glad you’re in a RV. Don’t let dirty laundry Each campsite offers a fire ring But with preparations, they’re no and picnic table, with paved RV problem. Experienced campers get in the way of pads readily available. With nine bring bug spray and extra long centrally located bathhouses, hot sand stakes for screened outdoor showers and working toilets are tents or sunshades. never far away. Camping season opens April Only one camping loop (Loop 4 and closes October 31, but day H) has electric hookups, and those access remains available through- sites fill fast. But with the casual, out the year, and year-round camp- kicked-back feel to the camp- ing is available nearby. RV manufacturers agree, a Splendide 2-in-1 washer-dryer is ground — and handy bathhouses To reserve a campsite in designed better than any other — you may not miss that added Assateague State Park, call the laundry center on the road. Not convenience. Maryland State Parks Reservation only does Splendide save space Many campers we met were Center at 888-432-2267 Monday and fit into more floor plan designs repeat visitors who call a year through Friday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. - but it’s less weight, cleans in advance to secure their spots. or visit: reservations.dnr.state.md.us. laundry better and uses less energy We were able to find a campsite The National Park Service also and water than any other brand! without amenities with only a offers more primitive year-round week’s notice. camping in Assateague Island (Insider’s Tip: The rounded National Seashore campgrounds tops of the camping loops closest in Maryland. Campsites there to the beach are considered prime offer drive-in pads but no hook- Splendide® real estate.) ups, fire grills and picnic tables. www.splendide.com To some, Assateague is an They’re available first-come, first- acquired taste. Nearby salt served from October 16 through Best Selling. Most Reliable. Best Supported. marshes give it a reputation for April 14. Reservations are recom- being “buggy.” Biting flies can be mended April 15 through October Reader Inquiry #104

 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 10 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 A surf fisherman quietly observes a passing pack of wild horses, which seem to tolerate park visitors with indifference.

Horses and beach-goers mingle in harmony at Assateague State Park. Ocean City, Md., stretches to the north of Assateague. The city offers a change of pace, with shopping, restau- rants and boardwalk attractions.

15 and may be made by calling actively fishing. Island. There are no weekly or 800-365-CAMP (2267) or at As a clerk at the Food Lion gro- other short-term permits issued, and http://reservations.nps.gov. cery store (a good place to stock up off-road vehicles must be “street on supplies) in nearby Berlin, Md., legal.” What To Do eagerly pointed out, Assateague is When you check in at Assateague Assateague Island consists of also enormously popular with ATVers. State Park, pick up a free “Guide to three major areas: Assateague State Both Maryland and Virginia host off- Birdwatching in Worcester County, Park, Assateague Island National road vehicle areas year-round, though Maryland” and a birders checklist, Seashore and Chincoteague each state limits the maximum num- as the region boasts some 350 spe- National Wildlife Refuge. Entrance ber of vehicles that can be on the cies — more than you’ll find in any fees are required in all areas. beach at any time. other county in the Maryland. The island stretches south of A $70 off-road permit is good Tired of surf and sun? Backtrack Ocean City, Md., like a wrinkled for a year on both the Virginia into Ocean City — scout for fresh index finger — a natural barrier and Maryland ends of Assateague produce stands along the way — to island replete with marshlands, silky sand beaches and acres of water for recreational pursuits. From MaxxAir Vent Corporation One of the easiest ways to reach The leader in RV ventilation it is to take U.S. Highway 50 toward Ocean City, veering south onto Route 611 for eight miles and cross- ing the Verrazano Bridge — a won- The first ever all-in-one fan powered RV vent that derful overlook that lends an attrac- automatically provides rain free ventilation. tive visual orientation. You can also access Assateague Island from the south by way of Chincoteague, Va. Once there, it’s time to explore The MaxxFan’s unique — walk the beach, find a hiking trail patent pending rain shield automatically moves into or unpack the bicycles. Near the position, protecting your visitor’s center, you’ll find a bridge RV’s interior. for pedestrians and cyclists. The island is relatively flat and offers miles of hiking and biking along The rain shield tucks away under the vent lid leaving paved roadways. a low profile, euro-style Canoe or kayak the bay waters appearance. or try your hand at clamming, crab- bing or surf fishing. Surf-fishermen may fish all night on the beach Features a powerful 3-speed fan, thermostat, air intake and exhaust in Maryland, which is accessible functions. Includes an easy to remove - easy to clean, interior insect screen. 24 hours. Available with Smoke Tint (shown) or Translucent White lid. In Virginia, fisherman must get an overnight fishing permit at Find your local RV dealer at the Visitor Center. To remain on www.maxxair.com the beach overnight, you must be

Reader Inquiry #105

11 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 Photo courtesy of Maryland Department of Natural Resources. Natural of Department Maryland of courtesy Photo

take in what the Travel Channel has (above) Campsites come with a picnic table and fire ring, perfect dubbed “one of the Best American for quiet evening gatherings. Boardwalks.” Constructed in the early 1900s, (right) Strolling the beach is a the 2.9-mile stretch of shops, res- daily ritual. Park-sponsored nature taurants and amusements has programs can help youngsters study the landscape with new eyes. something for everyone, from para- sailing to miniature golf and the (bottom) Mary Laymon has been nation’s oldest continually operat- coming to Assateague since she was ing Herschel-Spellman carousel. a child. Now, she brings her son, In Ocean City, consider parking at John, and friend Mark Rickerson. the West Ocean City Park and Ride and catch a tram ride into boardwalk attractions — a bargain at $1 — or ride a city bus all day for $2. Don’t forget to try the famed sea- food buffet at Jonah and the Whale or Phillips Seafood Restaurant. Or a Lutheran pastor in Huntington something worth checking out.” grab a hot Maryland crab cake Valley, Pa. Ted Peterson, of Philadelphia, sandwich (about $9) and drink at In time, Laymon picked up the is another repeat visitor. He started Waterman’s Seafood Company, camping tradition with her own son, coming to Assateague years ago where you can also pick up fresh John. Assateague has become their because it was a hit with his chil- seafood for your own kitchen. pilgrimage — the place they loyally dren. Now, he’s back on his own, return to for summer vacations. It’s with a pop-up camper. A Sacred Space where John loves hunting ghost “It used to be, this was the only Sprawled in a beach chair, Mary crabs on the beach at night and place that the kids wanted to go,” Laymon plunges her feet into the Mary recharges her batteries. he explained. “We’d suggest trying warm sand, tips her face to the sun The hum of the surf . . . the prox- something new, but they insisted on and smiles. She knows this place, imity to nature . . . there is some- coming here again and again.” this camping spot, these grains of thing about this island, she says. Though the kids have flown the sand, very well. “I call it my sacred space — the nest, Peterson now finds himself “The Queen of Assateague, place I really get connected with my enjoying Assateague on his own that’s her,” jokes her friend, Mark own spirit again,” Laymon said. time, his own terms . . . taking in Rickerson. “Plus, the park offers fantastic the soft colors of the sunrise in a In truth, Laymon has been com- programs — yoga on the beach, tie- camp chair with a hot cup of coffee. ing to this park since she was 6, dye Tuesdays, sand castle-building Kicking back in the sand. when her own mother brought the contests, aquariums in the nature “Old habits die hard, I guess,” he

family tent camping every summer. center,” Laymon said. said with a laugh. [ “It was what she could afford,” “They post schedules for the week recalled Laymon, who today is in the bathhouses, and there’s always

12 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5