ALL ABOUT VEGAS THE TRENDS AND SOME OF BOOSTING ITALY THE HOTTEST BRANDS AT THE GILDO AND PAOLO ZEGNA OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MEN’S SHOWS IN LAS VEGAS. UNVEIL A $34 MILLION SCHOLARSHIP FUND PAGES MW2 TO MW4 TO ENCOURAGE CREATIVITY IN ITALY. PAGE 2

GOLDEN GATE’S BIG REWARDS Signet’s Deal for Zale Sign of Consolidation

By ARNOLD J. KARR

GOLDEN GATE CAPITAL potentially made itself close to $1 billion in less than a week. WWD On Wednesday, the private equity fund earned up to $150 million when Signet Jewelers Ltd. agreed to buy Zale Corp. for $1.4 billion in cash. Signet is pay- THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ing Zale shareholders $21 a share, a 40.8 percent premium to Zale’s closing share price of $14.91 on Tuesday. Golden Gate owns 22 percent of Zale, mak- ing its stake worth about $150 million. The windfall follows Golden Gate earning $825 million in cash and stock when Jos. A. Bank agreed to buy Eddie Bauer for that amount late last week. Curl Signet’s deal to buy Zale is further evidence that 2014 could see a wave of retail consolidation. Bulking up for scale was one reason Signet gave for buying its rival jeweler — the same reason Jos. A. Bank gave for bidding for The Men’s Wearhouse and the latter re- About tailer subsequently gave for counterbidding for Bank. The Signet-Zale deal is expected to create a group with sales of about $6.2 billion and more than 3,600 stores in the U.S., Canada and the U.K. The deal should close by the end of the calendar year. Town Signet chief executive officer Mike Barnes will head the company but noted that “it is our intention that Zale will continue to run under current leader, Frida Giannini paired ceo Theo Killion, who would report directly to me functional chic with after the transaction closes.” Barnes is looking for accelerated penetration of a dose of glamour the bridal market, a Zale strength; more rapid de- for the strong velopment of global opportunities, and increased omnichannel activity. “The combined e-commerce Gucci collection sales of both companies are approaching $300 mil- she showed on lion today, with imminent growth still ahead,” he Wednesday. Placing said on a Wednesday morning conference call. “We have opportunities to improve operational efficien- a major emphasis on cies and add best-in-class additional functionality to outerwear, Giannini help drive this business.” favored shaggy SEE PAGE 10 toppers in pretty pastels such as this Joe Fresh Brand Sets curly blue shearling over jeans. For more Major Global Expansion from Milan, see pages 4 and 5. By DAVID MOIN

JOE FRESH is going global. In a new international strategy that’s anything but timid, the brand has signed three separate partner- FALL 2014 ship agreements to swiftly enter the Middle East, North Africa, Europe and South Korea, a total of 24 countries. In addition, “We are speaking to 10 or 12 MILAN [potential] partners all over the globe and hope to an- COLLECTIONS nounce two or three more partnerships in the coming months,” Mario Grauso, chief operating officer of Joe Fresh, told WWD. “There’s a big corporate focus to make this business global.” There’s also “an emerging middle class in many of these countries presenting an opportunity in this value segment, which we play in,” added Joseph Mimran, founder and creative director of Joe Fresh and president of Joseph Mimran & Associates. How far and fast Joe Fresh can export its colorful, modern styling and downtown attitude remains to be seen, but the intent is to ramp up quickly. The first store will open in Seoul this spring, followed by one in the Middle East and then another in Seoul. New ex- ecutives have been hired, including Alixe Boyer as se- nior vice president of brand development and Steven Horn as vice president of global retail. The company is recruiting several senior designers, and developing a kids-only store format to accommodate an assortment extending from baby and toddler sizes to girls and boys. The format is seen launching first overseas. Last October, Grauso joined Joe Fresh from Vera Wang, to take the business to the next level. PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 WWD.COM Zegna to Offer Scholarship THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD wise our younger generation will world-class foreign universities or By LUISA ZARGANI be unmotivated, without faith in research centers without limiting the future and negative on the the subject matter.” MILAN — The Ermenegildo growth of the country.” The committee will interview Angelina Jolie Zegna Group has earmarked 25 Zegna said the project marks 16 to 24 candidates to finally se- rocked a casually million euros, or $34.3 million at “a strong message between pri- lect 10. “In the future we will disheveled Saint current exchange, to stimulate vate and public. Our group has probably increase the number of Laurent tuxedo- excellence in Italy. always been deeply conscious of academic institutions we will talk inspired getup at In a tightly packed press con- its public duties and responsibil- to,” he said. The candidates, also the 67th British ference on Wednesday, kicking off ities, in line with the teachings selected based on their desire Academy Film Milan Fashion Week, Paolo and and ability to contribute to Italy, Awards. For more celebrity Gildo Zegna, president and chief Gildo Zegna will be able to pursue a master’s executive officer, respectively, of degree for a maximum of two fashion, see the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, years or a doctorate for a maxi- WWD.com. presented the Ermenegildo Zegna mum of three years, after which Founder’s Scholarship as a trib- they may work abroad for a lim- ute to the founder of the giant ited period of time before return- men’s wear firm. Every year for 25 ing permanently to Italy. Zegna years, the group plans to provide Scholars will receive up to 50,000 TANG/WIREIMAGE KARWAI 1 million euros, or $1.3 million, to euros, or $68,624, annually in fi- enable talented Italian graduates nancial assistance. The specific to pursue postgraduate studies or amount awarded to each candi- PHOTO BY conduct research outside of Italy. date will be based on demonstrat- The funds will be granted on con- ed financial need. Scholarship Signet Jewelers Ltd. and Zale Corp. agreed to terms on a $1.4 dition that those students return recipients who choose to pur- billion all-cash deal in which Signet will acquire Zale. PAGE 1 to Italy upon completion of their sue careers outside Italy will be programs abroad. expected to repay the amounts Joe Fresh Paolo Zegna described the awarded to them, so that they has signed three separate partnership agreements may be used to fund scholarships to swiftly enter the Middle East, North Africa, Europe and scholarship as “timely,” at a mo- PAGE 1 ment in Italy’s history “when for future candidates. McGurn South Korea. the need to think of the future of MAESTRI DAVIDE clarified that “the funds can be the younger generation” is para- reimbursed over five years if the The French Institute Alliance Française, through a partnership with Kering, is counting on its annual Fashion at mount in the country, plagued by PHOTO BY student does not return to Italy. rampant unemployment. “There It’s a loan without interest, and FIAF program to be a showstopper. PAGE 6 is a need for deep changes and and values of our grandfather it’s not a punitive system.” strong solutions, to set the foun- Ermenegildo. Offering a real, McGurn, who has been a long- Richard Nicoll is poised to lend Jack Wills, the British high dations for the future,” he said. albeit partial, alternative to the time friend of the Zegna family street clothing and accessories brand targeted at university-age Zegna said the project had so-called brain drain is part and through mutual friend Domenico consumers, a dash of urban designer sophistication. PAGE 6 been in the works for almost two parcel of taking responsibility for De Sole, said on the sidelines of years. “We hope it may serve as an the future of our country.” the conference that “the refer- Gerard Darel is refreshing for the future, with a new store example, too, after almost 50 years Gildo Zegna and Rosario ence of the scholarship to the concept and revamped advertising campaign. PAGE 7 since the death of the founder, Bifulco, president of medical founder is correct. He had a who always believed in profession- technology firm Sorin SpA, will strong philanthropic commit- Profiles of six designers on the rise that will show during Paris al schools, quality and internation- be members of the selection ment from the early days.” Fashion Week. PAGE 8 alization. In remembrance of him, committee, chaired by William He said the family has been but also as a sign of respect, as a B. McGurn of the international quietly making “annual low-sev- GQ is in the process of building partnerships with different wish that the world will continue law firm Cleary Gottlieb Steen & en-figure gifts to several institu- retailers in order to learn how to create viable revenue streams to progress,” he concluded. Hamilton LLP. McGurn said the tions, often in the Biella area. PAGE 11 Gildo Zegna said that “culture selection will be “rigorously meri- This is an attempt to do some- outside of the magazine. and research are two strong- tocratic, but the structure will be thing on a more national scale. holds,” and that “without culture light. We will ask rectors of eight It’s a continuation of a philan- LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chief Bernard Arnault there is no development.” The ex- Italian universities, from Milan’s thropic commitment that is very will be presented with the Museum of Modern Art’s David ecutive spoke about Matteo Renzi, Bocconi to Turin’s Polytechnic, much part of the Zegna fam- Rockefeller Award on March 4. PAGE 11 Italy’s prime minister-designate. to indicate two or three candi- ily tradition. It’s a big commit- “He is young, energetic and fit to dates of exceptional talent after ment for a long time, and open Retailers hit the Las Vegas trade shows this week looking bring the country forward,” said their acceptance for postgradu- to everyone, there are no limits. for brands that offer fresh, differentiated product at a Zegna, urging changes, “other- ate study or research programs at Limits limit you.” reasonable price. PAGE MW1

The Las Vegas men’s shows — Project, MAGIC Men’s, Pool, Liberty, Agenda, Capsule and MRket — were full of Gap Readies Minimum Wage Increase saleable options for retailers for fall. PAGE MW2 for employees,” adding that it had been contemplat- ON WWD.COM By SHARON EDELSON ing the move for some time. Explaining the move to raise hourly rates, Gap CELEBRITY FASHION: Starlets gave men’s wear-inspired GAP INC. is one of the first U.S. companies to heed said that over the last five years, “we’ve stayed ahead ensembles a glamorous touch with glitz and a few skin-baring the call to raise minimum wages for its 65,000 U.S. of others by investing in technology. And yet, a cus- moments. For more, see WWD.com. store employees. tomer’s lasting impression is often shaped by the in- On Wednesday, chairman and chief executive of- teractions with the people in our stores. To connect ficer Glenn Murphy said in a letter on Gap’s Web and enhance the in-store and digital experience for site that the company will make a strategic invest- our customers even more, we must attract and retain FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA ment to increase the minimum hourly rate for em- great talent. As a result, we’re raising the minimum @ WWD.com/social ployees to $9 in 2014 and $10 in 2015. hourly rate for people who work in our U.S. stores.” The move comes as there is growing pressure na- The increases will impact all of the company’s TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. tionwide to raise the federal and state minimum wage brands, including Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic, WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. rates. President Obama urged Congress in his State of Athleta, Piperlime and Intermix. Gap said 75 percent of COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the Union address to pass an existing bill increasing its employees work on the front line serving customers. VOLUME 207, NO. 36. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, the national minimum wage to $10.10 an hour from The company said the majority of employees in and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance $7.25 and indexing it to inflation by the second half of stores and distribution centers earn more than the Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, 2016. He also signed an executive order last week to $7.25 minimum wage, but did not specify how much Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, require federal contractors pay federally funded em- they earn. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West ployees a “fair wage” of at least $10.10 an hour. “To us, this is not a political issue,” said Murphy. Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, A bill that would raise California’s minimum “Our decision to invest in frontline employees will Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . 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For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS said in a report released Tuesday that an increase decision provides them with some additional sup- Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our in the federal minimum wage to $10.10 by 2016, a port as they grow their careers with Gap Inc.” subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest legislative proposal supported by President Obama Murphy said the decision reflected the values our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. 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OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. lescopains.com Les CopainsShowroom -46W55thSt,NewYork212.262.8556 [email protected] 4 WWD thursday, february 20, 2014

Gucci Alberta Ferretti Fausto Puglisi

Milan CollectionsFall 2014 The shows GoT sTArTed on An exuberAnT noTe wiTh nods To The sixTies, nATure And even “PeAnuTs.”

Gucci: “I felt the need to materialize the essence dose of the essential house glamour. of Gucci,” Frida Giannini wrote in her program Giannini obliged with a strong lineup rooted notes. If one infers from her words a moment of in sportswear and infused with a Sixties vibe à la reevaluation, it proved worthwhile, as here was Julie Christie. That translated into updates on the a smart, savvy Gucci collection. For one thing, crisp, precise shapes of that era (there was a huge Giannini seemed to have asked herself, What does emphasis on outerwear) softened in Giannini’s the Gucci woman, whom she characterized as palette of nonsaccharine pastels — cosmetic pinks someone who “dresses to please herself rather than and beiges; dusty blues and greens. She favored others,” want and need to wear? lean, mannish tailoring for jackets and pants, The answer, plain and simple: real clothes that often contrasting their linear line with inviting deliver functional chic — and, of course, a hefty outerwear in shaggy, colorful incarnations. Case

w20a004(5)a;11.indd 1 2/19/14 6:13 PM 02192014181536 WWD thursday, february 20, 2014 5 WWD.COM

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in point, a frothy mass of curly blue territory, but she executed her flights of the feisty, young and flirty theme, as no. 21: “Real life with a touch of magic.” shearling worn over slim pants. fancy with control. with a short apron dress in a blue That was how Alessandro Dell’Acqua Dresses and belted coats retained Some of the dress shapes veered color scheme with a splash of angular summed up the spirit of his collection the clean shapes while expressing the Valentino but Ferretti provided her embroideries, and patchwork leggings for No. 21 in his show notes. The thought more feminine side of the Gucci range. own take with subtle whimsy. Even worn under a boxy top. translated into a new spin on the These often incorporated elements of the accessories had a wildlife charm, designer’s trademark mix of masculine leather, whether as the bodice of a silk including flats covered in peacock brunello Cucinelli: Naming his fall tailoring with high-octane evening cady-skirted dress or as a plastron on feathers — for that walk on the wild side. collection “Less & More,” Brunello sparkle. a pink wool coat. As for accessories, Cucinelli worked the contrast by Dense holographic sequins were the newly unstructured bags were Fausto Puglisi: Passion is not a problem balancing clean and simple shapes a focal point but they were deployed sometimes matched to the clothes, as for Fausto Puglisi. In describing with innovative material play. The almost nonchalantly, such as with with a big pink tote and a racy jacket. various elements — the Ballets Russes, latter often subverted fabric-use an oversize chocolatey-brown polo And it was all worn with sensible-heel, Sonia Delaunay, the Statue of Liberty norms. A coat that looked like fur, shirtdress glimmering in thousands of horse-bit boots. and color, among them — the words for instance, was actually made of those sparkly bits. Evening proved something of a “obsessed” and “obsession” rolled off his cashmere while a color-blocked Even more exuberant was a surprise with nary an obvious Oscar tongue again and again. This bombastic sweatshirt in black, brown and blush glittery pattern of red roses on a blue dress in sight. Rather, Giannini offered enthusiasm raced through the clothes. was done in mink. Active touches were background that appeared on several a series of short, structured dresses The designer’s fall collection added to the lineup, most notably via looks. But Dell’Acqua grounded the including several in leather, their bodices was a collision course of contrasts, the white cashmere sweats playfully shine via neutral pairings like drop- decorated with bold encrustations of some of which paired well together, accessorized with a mink tie for a crotch pants in a fluffy, camel wool with crystals. These had an oh-so-subtle touch while others weren’t meant to be. mannish and cool effect. sequined polo top. of the latter-day warrior woman to them. “It’s ladylike and young; it’s wife and Cucinelli also ventured into evening In return, boyish topcoats were The Gucci woman may be relaxed for fall, mistress at the same time; chic and for fall. One standout: a black cashmere given an unexpected twist with but she’s fierce at heart. shock; sophisticated and a little bit top textured to appear marbleized and panels of thick fur and, sometimes, vulgar,” said Puglisi, who is fearless in embedded with the designer’s signature cabochon embroideries in back. With Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti ventured his pursuit of his extreme ethos. chainlike detail. Shown with a full, this collection, Dell’Acqua proved that into the woods for fall, channeling her Kaleidoscopic patchworks of black, layered tulle skirt, the look exuded a there’s no need to choose between inspiration into a strong, if narrow ivory and red, or turquoise, purple and casual-luxe sensibility. comfort and elegance. point of view. black were the constant, meticulously “I imagined animated woods, where placed on sheaths, short flared skirts, Fay: Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto versus versace: In the interim between nature embraced the body of a woman,” sweatshirts, aggressive biker jackets Rimondi turned out a spunky collegiate buzzy, Versus Versace capsule Ferretti said backstage before the show. and skimpy dresses with bra tops. Many collection for Fay that was embellished collections by guest designers — J.W. Though it may sound arty and ethereal, of the pieces bore modernist Baroque to the hilt. Anderson was last; Anthony Vaccarello Milan Collections the designer worked the theme with embroideries, such as gold triangles Varsity jackets came either elongated starts in September — there is the core The shows GoT sTArTed on An exuberAnT noTe wiTh nods To The sixTies, nATure And even “PeAnuTs.” unexpected depth and sobriety via arranged down the front of a skirt, or cropped and luxed up with patent lineup designed by Donatella Versace. heavy textures and embellishments. or the vestige of Lady Liberty, whom patches, fur fronts and banded leather As the “core” distinction indicates, A striking gold brocade jacquard, for Puglisi loves. sleeves. Woodstock — as in Snoopy’s this fall grouping was a commercial example, looked like rugged tree bark It was a lot to handle, at times inscrutable bird friend — motifs mix of Versus tropes, here divided into on a voluminous green coat with a large too much. Craftsmanship was not lined up on sweaters and appeared as four themes for four deliveries: sporty, fur-collared hood. a question. Refined cuts and rich chenille patches for a look that was collegiate, the surprisingly understated Ferretti also played up decorative materials, including a base of wool strictly freshmen. Bold houndstooth Mod tailoring, and rock ’n’ rollers. elements such as sequins, feathers, crepe, did much to streamline the checks and thick diagonal stripes in The subdivisions, all done in his-and- flower appliqués and ribbons. When visual cacophony, except in the case of primary colors added to this busy affair. hers versions, covered the Versus bases they came together in one look — as long-sleeve T-shirts worn with pleated Still, some of the details were cute, of leather, Baroque prints and bomber in the shift that was also printed in midlength skirts — a look at once edgy notably the perky visors attached to the jackets. There were things to like but this a digital nature motif — there was and dowdy. Puglisi’s blitz of the bold hoods of quilted puffer jackets and the lineup ultimately felt like what it is: filler the danger of moving into “odd bird” made the most sense when he followed academic scarves in multicolored mink. between the more flashy capsule lines.

w20a004(5)a;11.indd 2 2/19/14 6:14 PM 02192014181538 6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 WWD.COM Kering Bringing French Film Fest to U.S. Jack Wills Taps Richard Nicoll Part of that celebration will involve By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG supporting FIAF’s Fashion Talks with retail sector” and “big-business prod- Altuzarra on March 19 and Browne on By SAMANTHA CONTI uct development.” NEW YORK — Through a partnership March 31, as well as Style Stories March Jack Wills currently has 78 stores with Kering, the French Institute Alliance 20 with Garance Doré in conversation with LONDON — Richard Nicoll is poised to worldwide: 60 in the U.K. and Ireland; Française is counting on its annual Fashion “The Sartorialist” Scott Schuman. Pamela lend Jack Wills, the British high street 11 in the U.S.; four in the Middle East, at FIAF program to be a showstopper. Golbin, chief curator of the Musée de la clothing and accessories brand targeted and three in Hong Kong. For the first time, A Shaded View on Mode et du Textile at the Louvre, Paris, at university-age consumers, a dash of “I feel that through my varied de- Fashion Film, an annual film festival at leads Fashion Talks. While Kering has a urban designer sophistication. sign experience, with Cerruti, Louis the Centre Pompidou in Paris, will be minority stake in Altuzarra’s business, and On Wednesday, Nicoll was named Vuitton, Topshop and Fred Perry, and coming to the U.S., with the premiere the company has worked with Doré in the creative director of with the support of set for March 14 at FIAF’s Florence past, their creative strengths and indepen- the brand, a part- Jack Wills’ amazing Gould Hall here. After the screening dent voices were the driving forces. time role, and he adviser network, of 12 short films, the festival’s founder Laurent Claquin, head of Kering will continue to de- which includes Diane Pernet will hold a Q&A with film- Americas, praised Pernet for being the sign his own label. Rose Marie Bravo, makers Mike Figgis (“Leaving Las Vegas”) first to champion the connection between He showed his I can bring some- and Jerry Schatzberg (“Scarecrow”). film and fashion through ASVOFF, first in fall collection last thing potent to the Bruce Weber’s short for Barneys Paris and then all over the world. It is ex- weekend at London existing DNA,” the New York and a Figgis-made Agent pected to move on to Milan and Mexico Fashion Week, a designer said. Provocateur film that was Kate Moss’ City later this year. While ASVOFF is in mix of sporty shapes The British- screen debut are among the selections. sync with Kering’s mission “to empower with opulent fabrics born, Australian- In a phone interview Wednesday, the imagination,” Claquin noted, “it’s not and details. raised Nicoll is a Pernet said, “Film works largely because a festival about fashion commercials” Jack Wills’ chief 2002 graduate of it gets the tone of voice right precisely, nor will any Kering brands be featured executive officer London’s Central which involves combining humor, social in next month’s screening. He said, Wendy Becker said Saint Martins, and commentary, political ideology and fash- “Fashion and film are both about icons, Nicoll’s collections freelanced for Marc ion, of course. To make a fashion film, storytelling and movement. Today movies have “a global ap- Jacobs at Louis fashion has to be the protagonist but the and short films are the most appropriate peal, but he is a Vuitton before idea is to make a film that really cap- medium to talk about fashion and what British designer at striking out on his tures your interest and that it lives on.” fashion is today, not only as a way to ex- heart and will lead own in 2005. Nicoll Christine de Lassus, the guest curator press yourself [but] to reward yourself, to the creative direc- made his debut at of Fashion at FIAF, said, “This year we fulfill your dreams, to say something, and tion of our brand London Fashion have already entered a new world where the storytelling behind fashion can really into its next impor- Week in February boundaries are melting between fash- be captured for film.” tant phase.” 2006 and has ion, film, art, cinema and even gender. Pernet, who lived and worked in New Nicoll told WWD Richard M. BENETT/GETTY DAVE IMAGES shown every sea- I want to celebrate the visionaries that York early on in her career as a designer, he was approached Nicoll son since. In 2008, are forging this new world. It’s not only watched 500 films before whittling those about a number of he was awarded in fashion but also in film, in art, with down to 80 to 100 and then had a jury positions recently, PHOTO BY three Association social media and Joseph Altuzarra and help decide on the final 12. As for what but decided on Jack Wills because he Nationale pour le Développement des Thom Browne. It really made sense to do she hopes festivalgoers will gain, Pernet thought that it was an “interesting and Arts de la Mode prizes. something that has a global vision that said, “I hope they will pick cameras up unusual choice,” and one that could Nicoll, whose latest men’s and celebrates those new voices.” and start making some great films.” provide a different experience from his women’s collections were an ode to own brand. “I feel that our aesthetics bright color and texture with street are separate, but I understand the ex- influences, said he planned to intro- isting Jack Wills DNA,” he said. “I can duce “ready-to-wear values” to Jack bring timeless, sport luxe with a play- Wills’ design process, and bring unity Eloquii to Be Relaunched ful, British edge.” to the collection across all categories His first collection will be for spring “so that whether we are designing a thinking about the sizes. It’s all in the ex- 2015 and will drop in December. sweatshirt or a party piece, the collec- By DAVID MOIN ecution and how it fits.” Nicoll said he’s looking forward to tion sits together as a whole and can “We want to be a leader in fashion — learning about other areas of the busi- be worn as such — the way that people ELOQUII, a large-size line that came period. It just so happens we are making ness, “particularly the international really wear clothes.” and went pretty quickly, is back online. clothes sizes 14 to 24,” added Chase. Launched by The Limited in 2011 only To let the world know Eloquii is back, to be shut down less than two years later, there’s “a relatively robust marketing Eloquii is set to be relaunched today as plan” involving public relations and blog- Brands, Unions Voice Cambodia Concerns an independently owned brand by mem- ger outreach. Collaborations with design- due process, speedy bail and any nec- bers of the original team, including Jodi ers and models are in the works, too. As an By DENE-HERN CHEN essary medical treatment. Arnold, the brand’s Another meeting between both parties designer who is now A DELEGATION representing 30 inter- is planned for May, the statement said. creative director, along Eloquii designs. national brands and global trade unions For the government’s part, this meet- with private investor met with Cambodia’s deputy prime ing was a way for it to clear the air. Jonathan Auerbach, a minister on Wednesday to express their “The buyers now understand that founding member of concerns about the country’s security both government and buyers are Gilt. It’s targeting what forces opening fire on garment workers all in the same boat,” said a state- the team regards as an to quell a Jan. 3 demonstration. ment released by the government underserved segment: A protest for higher wages early last late Wednesday. “The delegation for women age 20 to 40, month descended into violence when buyers and international unions ex- sizes 14 to 24. security forces fired live ammunition pressed their concerns about the vio- “The team really at the rioting workers, leaving at least lent strikes and the destruction of fac- sees a significant op- four dead and more than 30 injured. tory property, which is not according portunity in this busi- Two weeks after the incident, 30 inter- to the law.” ness,” said Mariah national brands — including Gap, Puma The government made no mention Chase, the new chief and H&M — and three global trade of its role in the shooting. In the af- executive officer. unions (IndustriALL, International termath of the violent crackdown, the “Eloquii had been Trade Union Confederation and UNI Cambodian government has continu- growing well, month Global Union) requested a meeting with ously justified its actions by saying it over month. Customers the government. was necessary to maintain order. were incredibly loyal. According to a joint statement re- Cambodia’s garment industry exports When Eloquii shut leased Wednesday by the brands and more than $5 billion to major global down, there was a real trade unions, the meeting with Deputy brands, including H&M, Gap, Puma, outcry, but it was a Prime Minister Keat Chhon and other Adidas, Nike and Marks & Spencer. strategic decision made by Sun Capital interactive social feature, customers can government officials was “open and When the government on Dec. 24 Partners,” owners of The Limited. tag images of themselves wearing Eloquii, frank.” It included discussion of imple- set a minimum wage increase to $95 a “We’ll be launching with 110 styles which is an invented name combining the menting a trade union law and a wage- month from $80, workers and unions and we will refresh the site every two words eloquent and soliloquy. The name setting process that is “methodologi- responded by launching a nationwide weeks with 35 to 45 new sku’s [stock- was purchased from The Limited. cally sound and inclusive.” strike to push for $160 a month — an keeping units],” said Arnold. She said For now, Eloquii will be online only, “There was recognition of the need amount they believe would meet Eloquii.com will offer a full collection though The Limited did open Eloquii for this to be thorough and to be put Phnom Penh’s rising living expenses. of dresses, skirts, tops, sweaters, coats, stores and Eloquii shops inside Limited in place as a matter of urgency to sup- Despite a $5 concession from the gov- belts, pants, denim, jackets and a small stores the first time around along with port industrial peace,” the statement ernment to bring the wage up to $100 jewelry assortment, all designed in- the Web site. said, adding that stable conditions a month, the workers continued pro- house with more focus on trends than Former Eloquii staff back on the team allow brands the ability to plan and testing on the streets and in industrial previously, and not as career dominant. include chief operating officer Steve invest in Cambodia. zones by the thousands. Prices range from $18 to $198. The com- Zawada; vice president of merchandis- The statement also stressed that all Things came to a head on Jan. 3 pany will operate on a six- to eight- ing Julie Carnevale; Minty Zhou, di- efforts must be made “to avoid any re- when security forces opened fire on the month design cycle “like a fast-fashion rector of technical design, and Duffy peat of the violence against workers,” rioting workers. scenario,” Arnold said. “We will give her Sweeney, vice president of technology. and that workers who were detained — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS whatever the trends are without really The team has an ownership stake. during the protests must be afforded FROM CHENG SOKHORNG

WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Joe Fresh Sets Aggressive Global Expansion {Continued from page one} Bahrain, Oman’’ and Iran. The agreement which sells the brand in 650 locations. “It’s always advantageous to get the is for 18 stores by 2018 including nine in “A lot of J.C. Penney’s southern doors An image from units up and running” Grauso said, ex- the UAE. The first stores are seen open- have been very interested in making sure the Joe Fresh pressing a determination to open over- ing this year, though the timing was not the assortment is always right for warm ad campaign. seas units relatively fast to increase le- specified. Nabil Daud, ceo of Retail weather doors. We will use the same cri- verage with suppliers and build gross Arabia, said Joe Fresh is an important teria for the Middle East,” Mimran said. margin. Mimran echoed the sentiment: addition to the portfolio, which includes The Joe Fresh store opened in New “As we add partners, it gives us more Oscar de la Renta, House of Fraser, David York’s SoHo last year is the template for scale and more ability to drive the assort- Morris, Hamleys and Pretty Ballerinas. overseas units. Overseas stores, Grauso ment and drive the brand imaging.” The third partner is Origin & Co. Ltd., noted, “will be close to exactly what we Overseas, Joe Fresh will compete most based in Seoul. Origin plans to open up are doing in Canada and the U.S.” directly against Gap, H&M, Zara, Uniqlo, to 30 Joe Fresh locations over five years, The overseas partners will build and Mango and Topshop, which have estab- beginning this spring with a store in the own the Joe Fresh stores and function as lished global footprints. “Keep in mind, we Lotte World Mall, to be followed by a flag- wholesale accounts purchasing the Joe have men’s, women’s, children’s, shoes, ac- ship in Seoul. “We believe Joe Fresh is Fresh product. They also operate e-com- cessories and cosmetics,” Grauso said. “We ideally positioned for South Korea, a merce sites to sell brands in their regions. truly have a deep breadth of product Joe Fresh only operates e-commerce available. We even have a women’s in Canada and is planning e-com- activewear line. To be a well-assort- merce for the U.S. this fall. ed competitor is also key.” As we add partners, it gives us A team to monitor the overseas Fawaz A. Alhokair & Co., based stores is being formed. “We have in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, is the more scale and more ability visual standards that have to be ad- partner for the Joe Fresh expan- hered to” and a look that Mimran sion in Saudi Arabia, Jordan, to drive the assortment and feels is “very clean, unique and Lebanon, Egypt, Morocco, Algeria, not overloaded with merchandise” Macedonia, Montenegro, Croatia, representing an upscale approach Bosnia, Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan, drive the brand imaging. to presenting less expensive goods. so you don’t give out mixed messages in- Georgia, Belarus, Armenia, Serbia Currently, Joe Fresh only has ternationally and lose focus as a brand. and Spain. Alhokair has agreed — JOSEPH MIMRAN, JOE FRESH stores in North America. In Canada, Yo u can get pulled in many different di- to open at least 96 Joe Fresh free- there are 16 freestanding sites and rections depending on a country’s needs standing stores by 2018, including 350 shops-in-shop in Loblaws, the and weather.” 40 in Saudi Arabia, with the first stores fashion-conscious market highly recep- publicly held supermarket chain in which Asked how big the international fleet opening this summer. tive to smart, classic design that is well the Weston family has a large stake. could be, Grauso replied, “It’s hard to “We believe this partnership has priced and well executed,” said Sungho Loblaw Cos. Ltd. is the parent com- put a number on it, not knowing how the potential to become the world’s Chung, director of domestic enterprise pany of Joe Fresh. fast we will grow, but I think it will be a single largest retail franchise by le- at Origin, a division of the ILJIN Group. In the U.S., there are six freestanding substantial number.” He said the Middle veraging our respective strengths and Korea will see a mix of freestanding shops, as well as the Penney’s shops, where East will have upwards of 130 to 135 shared ambitions for sustained growth stores and shops-in-shop. the presentation has changed. Penney’s stores while South Korea will be in the across multiple markets,” said Simon According to Mimran and Grauso, not said the brand was recently downsized a bit range of 35 doors. Marshall, Alhokair’s chief executive of- much has to change with the collection to be more in line with sales and relocated “This is the right time for Joe Fresh ficer. Alhokair operates 1,850 freestand- or store presentation to sell in different to the casual side of the floor, though still to expand onto the international stage, ing stores via partnerships with Zara, countries. In certain countries, “We may not far from its former spot by the entrance building on the success it has realized in Bershka, Massimo Duti, Gap, Mango, need some additional sizing. It’s’’ just a now occupied by the jcp and a.n.a. private Canada with a solid history of growth and Topshop, The Children’s Place, La Senza matter of grading up or down, not creating brands. “We are very happy with that loca- the confidence of our customers,” said By DAvID MOIN and Marks & Spencer, among others. new patterns,” Mimran said. He also said tion,” Mimran said. “We are maintaining Galen G. Weston, executive chairman of Joe Fresh also signed with the Dubai- the company will be sensitive to season- quite a lot of volume.” Loblaw Cos. “Teaming up with our new JOE FRESH is going global. based Retail Arabia International, which ality, which, for example, implies adding Mimran sees his biggest challenge international partners is an attractive In a new international strategy that’s anything but will open stores for the brand in the lighter-weight products to winter assort- overseas as “maintaining a consistency model for the business that I believe le- timid, the brand has signed three separate partner- United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Qatar, ments, as Joe Fresh does for J.C. Penney, of the branding, imaging and product, verages our complementary strengths.” ship agreements to swiftly enter the Middle East, North Africa, Europe and South Korea, a total of 24 countries. In addition, “We are speaking to 10 or 12 [potential] partners all over the globe and hope to an- ago,” Comazzi Duval added. It plans to focus overseas ex- nounce two or three more partnerships in the coming Gerard Darel Revamps Brand Image The brand has decided to take pansion on the strategic markets months,” Mario Grauso, chief operating officer of Joe a break from using high-profile of Russia, the U.K., the U.S. and Fresh, told WWD. “There’s a big corporate focus to By JOELLE DIDERICH ambassadors, which in addition Spain. The brand is set to open make this business global.” to Gainsbourg have in recent three to four stores with its part- There’s also “an emerging middle class in many PARIS — Gerard Darel has a years included Robin Wright and ner in Russia this year, including of these countries presenting an opportunity in this new look. Mamie Gummer. Its spring cam- one in Saint Petersburg, to be value segment, which we play in,” added Joseph Since taking over as chief paign by Driu & Tiago, shot in followed by its first freestanding Mimran, president of Joseph Mimran & Associates executive officer in August last black and white, features French store in the U.S. and additional and founder and creative director of Joe Fresh. year, Sandrine Lilienfeld has un- model Marjolaine Rocher against U.K. locations in 2015. How far and fast Joe Fresh can export its colorful, veiled a new store concept for the iconic Parisian backdrops. “I want to consolidate be- modern styling and downtown attitude remains to be French fashion firm, revamped its Lilienfeld said Darel may ap- fore developing,” commented seen, but the intent is to ramp up quickly. The first advertising campaign and brought point a new brand ambassador in Lilienfeld. “The development store will open in Seoul this spring, followed by one on board creative director Brigitte 2015, but it would have to be some- initiated via our partnership in the Middle East and then another in Seoul. New ex- Comazzi Duval to refresh its one exclusive to the brand. “Right with Bloomingdale’s in the U.S. ecutives have been hired, including Alixe Boyer as se- ready-to-wear collections. now, a lot of people represent sev- has been phenomenally success- nior vice president of brand development and Steven “I feel like things are moving eral brands at once. I think the ful. This winter, we became the Horn as vice president of global retail. The company is along at a fast pace,” Lilienfeld house is wonderful and deserves number-two brand on our floor, recruiting several senior designers, and developing a said in her office at Gerard Darel’s The new Gerard total exclusivity,” she explained. right behind Burberry.” kids-only store format to accommodate an assortment historic headquarters here, locat- Darel store in Paris. Reflecting the changes under International development is extending from baby and toddler sizes to girls and ed in the same building as the new way, the new store at 130 Rue key to compensate for continued boys. The format is seen launching first overseas. store that opened in late January. ly solid relationships both with modern. As far as the collections Réaumur is an airy yet elegant weakness in France, which ac- Last October, Grauso joined Joe Fresh from vera “Most companies require two overseas clients and with stra- go, I think once the founders left, space that houses the main counts for 62 percent of total sales. Wang, to take the business to the next level. years to give birth to a concept, tegic partners in France such as people were scared to change Gerard Darel line, secondary Though she declined to provide and we did it in three months.” Printemps, Galeries Lafayette things, so the collections did not collection Pablo and leather figures, Lilienfeld indicated that The executive, who joined the and Le Bon Marché,” she said. evolve sufficiently,” she said. goods, including the brand’s Gerard Darel posted a loss in 2013. company from the management “So it was not a case of reneg- Comazzi Duval, who will un- best-selling 24 Heures handbag “Like the rest of the sector, helm of Naf Naf and succeeded ing on its fundamental values, but veil her first full collection for and newcomer Divine. we had a difficult year with an Marianne Romestain, said she rather of making the organization spring 2015, said the line was not Measuring around 1,800 square unhelpful economic context plans to restore Gerard Darel more professional and emphasiz- aimed at any specific age group, feet, the store features light wood- and weather conditions. If de- to its glory days of last decade, ing the retail culture,” Lilienfeld but sought to capture a spirit. en floors, marquetry tables and partment store figures are any when Charlotte Gainsbourg was added. “Retail now represents “This is a brand with a very bronze lamp shades designed by indication, we fared somewhat the face of the brand, lending it three quarters of the group’s turn- strong DNA which had fallen Tom Dixon, for a contemporary better than our competitors. So an aura of cool Left Bank style. over, but the organization was still asleep in recent times. My idea is spin on midcentury design. it was not a year of growth in Lilienfeld noted that since its based on a wholesale model.” to refresh it by making it a little bit Lilienfeld said the concept France. On the other hand, we acquisition by private equity firm Darel counts 81 directly more feminine, a little bit more would be rolled out to four of did great business in the U.S. Advent International in 2008 and owned stores in 40 countries fun,” said the designer, who draws the brand’s existing stores in and Britain,” she said. the subsequent departure of the as well as 180 department store inspiration from her Asian travels Paris this year, including its The executive is banking on founding family members, Gerard concessions, in addition to its and can often be found combing flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré. a return to growth this year, not- Darel had lost some of its edge. wholesale business. vintage markets on weekends. Its stores in Lille, France, and ing that wholesale orders for the “The fundamentals of the On the style front, she noted “Our clientele is very much Brussels will also be renovated, fall collection were strong. “I am house are strong, and its iden- the house’s collections needed a Left Bank, artist-intellectual and Gerard Darel will unveil forecasting reasonable growth tity and positioning in the ac- sprucing up. type, so I really want to get back new leather goods corners at in France and more ambitious cessible luxury segment clearly “The brand, in its roots, is ex- to that spirit, which was the es- Galeries Lafayette in April and growth in countries that are less established. It also has extreme- tremely contemporary, extremely sence of Gerard Darel 10 years Printemps in July or August. affected by the crisis,” she said.

w20a007a.indd 7 2/19/14 7:27 PM 02192014192803 8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 WWD.COM A women’s look PARIS PREVIEW from Off-White. YASU MICHINO Yasu Michino is no stranger to accesso- ries. He’s been designing bags for the past 10 years at a number of houses, includ- Ones to Watch ing Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Sonia Rykiel and Delvaux, for which he contin- ues to consult. Six designers on the rise. Chapter One is the duo’s first wom- “But now,” he says, “it’s a whole new en’s collection, a tribute to the work of chapter, because it’s the first time I’m de- LEONARD Jean-Michel Frank, the Parisian interior signing for myself.” Having specialized in intricate textural designer from the Thirties most famous effects at her fledgling brand, Paris- for his beautiful straw marquetry furni- based designer Yiqing Yin is turning her ture, which the designers reinterpreted hand to prints for her debut collection as as a print. creative director of Leonard. The clothes follow strict, architec- “I haven’t used [prints] a lot in my own tural lines in a minimal rage of colors. collections,” she acknowledged. But for Contemporary and utilitarian cuts hark Leonard, “I selected prints that I thought back to the functionality of workwear, could have a modern resonance, once we while a cutout Mao collar, one of the label’s updated them a little, colorized or some- declared signifiers, adds a playful touch. times even reworked them, and tried “I admit, we are big fans of the uni- them out on fabrics the house is not nec- form,” said Laurent, a former artistic di- essarily used to working with.” rector at Wieden+Kennedy in Amsterdam. Yin transposed archival Leonard For their first presentation at the patterns onto fabrics such as wool, Designers Apartment showroom, the jacquard and a triple silk satin. She duo are expected to build their own pleated, draped and layered them set, featuring a selection of design to break up the motifs and cre- pieces from Knoll International, ate multifunctional outfits in stark Maiza Editions and Hologram Paris, contrast with the house’s signa- among others, to match the theme ture floral-print silk jersey of the first chapter, which is dresses. “Domestic Madness.” Each sea- “I wanted to express son, Do and Laurent intend BIHR a falsely nonchalant at- to add a little more to their Wool tartan and titude, as if you draped a minimalist wardrobe with CÉDRIC goatskin purse traditional Leonard silk a twist. BY by Michino.

scarf randomly on the Retail prices range PHOTO body,” Yin said. from 170 euros, or $234, For instance, a bulky for a cotton piqué shirt A former art history major at New black sweater was slung to 230 euros, or $316, York University, Michino took inspiration over an asymmetric print- for a pair of wool pants. from Pablo Picasso’s “Arlequin” to con- ed evening gown, while Dresses start at 210 euros, jure a chic yet functional collection built a tattoo-effect sheer or $289, while coats go for on geometric shapes and a quiet palette Accordingly, his women’s creations T-shirt could be around 420 euros, or $578. — mainly white, black, red and powder for fall are more polished than the “el- worn under a plain — PAULINA SZMYDKE pink. High-end Florentine manufactur- evated streetwear” he showed for men. sleeveless dress. ing and a rich mix of goatskin, shearling, Titled “I Only Smoke When I Drink,” Yin — who was DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE Y/PROJECT python and water snake add to the col- the first collection features pleated born in Beijing but Glenn Martens’ first full- lection’s luxury feel. velvet alongside denim and canvas,

left China at the age PHOTO BY fledged women’s collection Michino said the idea for the 45- while boiled wool has been fused with of four — nodded to at the helm of Y/Project con- piece women’s line came from hours Neoprene on a set of overcoats. Leonard’s strong pres- tinues along the lines of his spent on the train or plane every week, Strong colors and bold graphics re- ence in Asia and her men’s effort, which he intro- during which he imagined “a modern flect Abloh’s formal training as an ar- own heritage, sprin- duced last January. It stays chic traveler.” chitect. Sourced and produced in Italy, kling in design ele- to the house’s love of leather, “I wanted function, easy access and the collection is priced from $160 for ments such as Empire but complemented with a beautiful fabrics,” he said, suggesting, T-shirts to up to $3,000 for overcoats waists and kimono col- touch of mousseline “ Yo u can even use my bags with hand embroidery. — J.D. lars and sleeves. and washed satin for A look from Y/Project’s as a cushion.” “I don’t want it to be a softer allure. fall collection. The line, which retails a Japanese-inspired col- Martens, who took between 800 euros and 1,000 RUIZ-MUSI lection. Rather, it’s ‘grun- over the creative direc- euros, or $1,100 and $1,375, will A globetrotter at heart, young Mexican ge geisha’ — much more tion of the house after its have its debut at Tranoï between designer Gerardo Ruiz-Musi will present of a mix of genres and founder and de- Feb. 28 and March 3. — P.S. his second collection of luxurious hand- origins, with a kind signer Yohan bags this season. of nomadic atti- Serfaty died OFF-WHITE Dedicated to his native country’s tude,” she said. in 2013, Having launched his label craftsmanship, where the line is pro- — JOELLE said he Off-White with a men’s col- duced, the Paris-based designer works DIDERICH “wanted masculine tailoring lection last month, Virgil only with small artisanal ateliers. and a rough look, but one Abloh is rolling out his Ruiz-Musi’s collection comprises a A look from Leonard’s fall collection by Yiqing Yin. that is broken up with ultra- debut women’s line with couple of unisex styles like a backpack sexy pieces.” showroom presentations with front pocket and handle for ease in AVOC The gender-bending con- in Milan and Paris. traveling, and more feminine pieces such At Avoc, clothes are part of a bigger pic- cept translates into T-shirt Abloh, a multihyphen- as clutches and handbags featuring sig- ture that encompasses decorative arts, dresses draped with draw- ate who is creative direc- nature industrial hardware in brass, like architecture and scenography, too. strings in the shape of a Y. tor for Kanye West and big bolts and buttons. Designer Laura Do, who founded the Individually adjustable, the cofounded Chicago con- This season, the designer is sticking to label with Bastien Laurent in 2013 fol- ropes continue as a theme cept store RSVP Gallery, a warm, slightly Seventies palette with tan lowing a career in interior design and on bomber jackets and hopes to eventually build and brown nubuck and calfskin mixed with bespoke tailoring, said the idea was “to Gothic bustier dresses, while Off-White into a lifestyle hand-painted python or artisanal wool cre- produce a product that comes with its Martens’ tailoring skills brand comprising cloth- ated on ancient treadle looms, plus a cou- own universe.” come through via long skirts ing, home goods, luggage ple of hard-core chic pieces in all black. and ample pants constructed and more. — LAURENT FOLCHER from multiple silk or woolen “The concept of high- Avoc’s first women’s collection A clutch by Ruiz-Musi. pays tribute to the straw panels. The designer says he low, I think, is a marquetry designs of Jean- has “a thing” for wide-legged part of this gen- Michel Frank. suit pants. eration of young “I call it the ‘Basic fashion muses and Instinct’ look, because it’s designers, and I something that’s easy to want to embrace wear, but looks sexy at that within one col- the same time,” he said. lection,” he said. Kept sober in gray, “I want to be a black, white and navy, leader in that genre, the collection, which to take street ideas will be presented at the DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE and develop them at a Designers Apartment higher level with more

showroom, retails from PHOTO BY layers, so that it’s just 108 euros, or $149, for as well-informed and BEN SANDLER a T-shirt, to 1,674 euros, inspired as what we’re or $2,300, for a leather seeing on the catwalks in — P.S. PHOTO BY bomber jacket. Paris,” Abloh added. A Daimler Brand

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10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 Signet Jewelers to Buy Zale Corp. for $1.4B {Continued from page one} lots of stores. There’’ are obviously a lot of Signet. There’s no question that, in many The transaction is expected to result efficiencies and savings to be had in areas mature markets, business is tough and in about $100 million in annualized cost like supply chain and e-commerce.” profits are hard to come by, so there’s a savings within three years and, excluding Mark Cohen, the former ceo of tremendous focus on M&A because com- acquisition costs and adjustments, be ac- Sears Canada who’s now a professor at panies have been searching for growth cretive to Signet’s earnings per share at a Columbia Business School at Columbia and are having a hard time finding it or high-single-digit percentage rate in the first University in New York, noted that too they’ve gotten into some trouble. Or maybe full year after the deal closes. It is being fi- much similarity may work in favor of a they’ve got an activist investor pushing nanced through bank debt and other debt successful business combination but can them to do something or they’re looking to financing, including the securitization of “a run afoul of government antitrust policy. avoid one pushing them in that direction.” significant portion” of Signet’s accounts re- He pointed to the nullification of the Signet on Jan. 24 issued a statement ceivable portfolio, Signet said. proposed 1996 merger of Staples and saying it had held a “constructive” meet- Zale Corp.’s shares quadrupled Arnold Aronson, managing director of Office Depot based on Federal Trade ing with Corvex Management and reiter- in value during 2013. retail strategies at Kurt Salmon, believes Commission concerns about an inflation- ating its commitment to effective use of that Signet and Zale should make a good ary effect on pricing, a discussion being its capital to “maximize long-term value business combination, just as Jos. A. for shareholders, [through] acquisition when it bled $189.5 million in red ink Bank and Men’s Wearhouse would have. activity” or other actions. On the same during the Great Recession. It posted “Whether the pressure is from within In most cases, mergers day, Corvex filed paperwork with the net income of $10 million last year ver- or from Wall Street, if the internal opera- Securities and Exchange Commission re- sus a net loss of $27.3 million during the tions, the strategic objectives and mis- porting that it held 6.3 million shares of prior year and more recently reduced its sions statements of the companies are of ‘likes’ work, and Signet, or a 7.8 percent stake. The stock first-quarter loss to $27.3 million from compatible, one and one can add up to was acquired, Corvex said, because it the $28.3 million lost in the comparable three instead of 1 7/8,” he said. “There is Signet and Zale would believed Signet’s shares were “underval- period of 2012. More recently, its holiday a major need today for expansion with- ued and an attractive investment” and comparable-store sales rose 2 percent at out cannibalization, and that requires seem to fit that pattern. stating that officials with the firm “have constant exchange. an acquisition rather than the time or had and may continue to have discus- During 2013, Zale’s shares quadrupled money it would take to do something like sions” with Signet’s management about in value, rising 305.4 percent to $16.66, this on your own.” — ARNOLD ARONSON, its business and strategies. while Signet’s rose 47.5 percent to $78.12. He noted that Target Corp.’s entry into KURT SALMON Cohen contrasted the proposed Signet- “Having successfully completed our Canada was simplified by Hudson’s Bay Zale amalgamation with the acquisition multiyear turnaround program to return Co.’s decision to discontinue its Zellers heard again following Comcast’s agree- last year of Maidenform Brands Inc. by to return to profitability, Signet’s operat- operation, allowing Target to pick up the ment earlier this month to buy Time Hanesbrands Inc. for $583 million. ing strengths will enable us to accelerate rights to up to 220 Zellers leases. Target’s Warner Cable for $45.2 billion. “The track record of success on ac- Zale’s performance improvement for the Canadian fleet currently numbers 124 However FTC scrutiny of the Signet- quisitions is less than 50-50, but I think benefit of our current and future guests,” and is expected to grow to 133 this year, Zale deal plays out, Cohen sees the com- Hanesbrands and Maidenform will be a Killion said. although the retailer has admitted to bination as logical in a number of ways. success,” Cohen predicted. “But that’s a The deal brings together the two larg- major stumbles in its entry into Canada. “They’ve been beating the hell out of much different situation. Maidenform is est middle-market jewelers in the U.S. “In most cases, mergers of ‘likes’ each other on price, so you wonder how a contracting business with a portfolio of market, with Signet holding the same dis- work,” Aronson said, “and Signet and Zale much value a company adds, not by taking brands that get added to Hanesbrands’ tinction in the U.K. Zale operates 1,679 would seem to fit that pattern. This makes a principal competitor out of the picture, portfolio. And because Hanesbrands is stores including 624 kiosk operations. sense. They’re both mass-oriented, mod- but instead inside the tent,”’’ he told WWD. so much larger, the risks of leverage on Signet’s $3.98 billion in sales dur- erately priced and they know how to run “This was probably part of the analysis by the deal are far less.” ing the fiscal year ended last January Wall Street seemed more than com- include about $2 billion attributable to fortable with the proposed transaction, Kay Jewelers, the largest retail jewelry sending shares of Zale up 40.3 percent brand in the U.S.; about $1 billion from to $20.92, just 8 cents below the offer Jared The Galleria of Jewelry; $400 mil- price. Less predictably, Signet’s shares lion from H.Samuel, the U.K.’s top jew- soared 18.1 percent to $93.65. The two elry store, and $300 million from Ernest firms logged the largest increases of Jones, number two in the U.K. market. Its all U.S.-based fashion, retail and beau- total store count is nearing 2,000. ty firms tracked by WWD. Shares of Barnes noted that, once united, the Tiffany & Co. fell 0.2 percent to $88.39, two businesses will benefit from exclusive although the luxury retailer, with a far brands carried by the other. For instance, more affluent typical consumer and a Zale’s Vera Wang Love and Celebration more global reach, isn’t seen as being Diamond collections, important compo- affected by the merger of the more nents of the retailer’s bridal assortment, moderately priced jewelers. “will add to and strengthen the overall Both firms, and particularly Zale, exclusive brand portfolio within this very have been in something of a turnaround important category of business,” Barnes mode. Signet’s net income for the first said of the bridal market. nine months of the just-concluded year Exclusive brands account for 27.4 per- rose 2.5 percent to $192.8 million and cent of Signet’s sales, up from 19 percent fourth-quarter profits are expected to in 2010, and 11 percent of Zale’s, up from grow to $2.17 a diluted share from $2.12 8 percent in 2012. in the fourth quarter of 2012, according J.P. Morgan Securities LLC advised to analysts’ consensus estimates. Signet on the deal, and J.P. Morgan For Zale, the 12 months ended July Chase Bank NA committed to bridge fi- 31 marked its first profitable year after nancing. Bank of America Merrill Lynch four years of losses dating back to 2009, advised Zale. A Wedding of Two Jewelers SIGNET ZALE Sales $3.98 billion $1.89 billion Liz Rodbell Sco Sternberg Lisa Kamalsky Collier EBITDA $660 million $68 million HUDSON’SBAY BANDOFOUTSIDERS LEVISTRAUSS&CO COMPANY Stores 1,974 1,679 Employees 17,877 11,900 Markets U.S. and U.K. U.S. and Canada Exclusive brand share 27.4% 11% WWD COM/MENSWEARNY FOR INFORMATION: [email protected], 212.630.4212 CEO Mike Barnes Theo Killion

SPONSORED BY Main Nameplates Kay, Jared, H. Samuel, Zale, Gordon’s, Ernest Jones Peoples

SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. SALES AND EBITDA FIGURES FROM MOST RECENT FISCAL YEARS (FEB. 2013 FOR SIGNET, JULY FOR ZALE). STORE FIGURES INCLUDE ZALE’S 624 KIOSK LOCATIONS. WWD thursday, february 20, 2014 11 WWD.COM

FLEsH TONE: Creative director and MeMo pad photographer Matthias Vriens-McGrath is not Fashion scoops shy about showing flesh, right up to the GQ, RETAiLER?: GQ is stretching its full monty, in the hefty debut issue of his ARNAULT TO BE FETED: Bernard Arnault, no. 19071 2006 as later modified).” well-tailored reach beyond its pages. new biannual fashion magazine Tvtor, chairman and chief executive officer Furthermore, the Italian fashion According to chris Mitchell, the title’s vice which is being unveiled tonight with a of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis house declared it “operates in president and publisher, the cocktail party during Milan Vuitton, will be presented with the compliance with the regulations of glossy is in the process of Fashion Week. Museum of Modern Art’s David textile products and that, within its building partnerships with So visually driven there Rockefeller Award at a luncheon own systems of quality management, different retailers in order to are barely page numbers at MoMA on March 4. The award it continues to research raw materials “learn” how to create “viable and only a couple of articles, recognizes Arnault’s commitment and sustainable technology solutions revenue streams” outside of the issue opens with an art to culture and the arts. This year with requirements even more the magazine. portfolio chosen by Vriens- marks the first time that the David stringent than under the current Its upcoming venture McGrath, perhaps best Rockefeller Award is being given to laws, renewing its commitment to the with men’s wear pop-up known for overseeing Dutch an individual from outside the U.S. sustainability of the planet.” market Northern Grade magazine in the Nineties. — LisA LOckwOOD — ALEssiA BANi is an example. GQ and Works by Rosemarie Trockel, The logo for GQ’s venture Northern Grade will open a Johan creten and Andrej with Northern Grade. NEXT sTOP PARis: The Council of cLiNTON VisiTs HAiTiAN FAcTORY: pop-up marketplace in the Dubravsky are followed by a Fashion Designers of America and Former President clinton visited powerHouse Arena in Brooklyn’s DUMBO series of fashion shoots lensed mostly Vogue are getting ready for the philanthropic apparel manufacturer neighborhood on March 22 and 23. by him, plus slava Mogutin and duo sixth season of the CFDA/Vogue Industrial Revolution II on Tuesday “We have broader ambitions than Silva+Cemin, and styled by Elizabeth Fashion Fund’s “Americans in Paris” as part of his 48-hour trip to Haiti for pop-up shops,” Mitchell told WWD. “This stewart, Marcell Rocha and samuel François. initiative. Participants will include The Clinton Foundation. To promote is all about giving us permissions to do They are as racy and subversive as Public School’s Dao-Yi chow and the foundation’s renewed investments something bigger, for a retail initiative.” promised, culminating with a perfume Maxwell Osborne, Marc Alary, Richard and partnerships in Haiti, Clinton The Northern Grade venture is one of a shoot in which the bottles barely hide the chai, George Esquivel, Jennifer Fisher, Juan met with IRII founding partner and handful of retail plays for GQ. Indeed, over privates of his oiled and ecstatic models. carlos Obando, Nonoo’s Misha Nonoo, ceo Rob Broggi and founding partner the last two years, the magazine has entered The 394-page issue, with a cover The Elder Statesman’s Greg chait, Joey Adler, who is also ceo of Diesel into e-commerce partnerships with Park & price of $20, carries advertising from Tome’s Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin, Canada. While on site, Clinton toured Bond, Nordstrom and its current partner, Chanel, Dior, Calvin Klein, Tom Ford, and wes Gordon. IRII’s production facility in support Mr Porter. It also launched a barbershop in Salvatore Ferragamo and Adidas. From March 1 to 3, this year’s of its mission to create long-term, Brooklyn’s Barclays Center last month. Vriens-McGrath said the print run crew will welcome international sustainable economic development Although Mitchell didn’t provide more would be 200,000, with distribution retailers and other visitors to its within the region of Port-au-Prince. details on what’s in the cards, he hinted that focused on the U.S. and Europe. showroom at Le 8 Valois. “We are On the trip, The Clinton perhaps an e-commerce or brick-and-mortar Coming next week is a companion Web looking forward to introducing a new Foundation awarded a $28,000 grant grab could be in the imminent future. site hosting a new set of contributors group of American design talent to to Fonkoze, a Haitian microfinance But back to Northern Grade. That and, like the print magazine, akin to the global market,” said steven kolb, venture will give GQ the opportunity to Tumblr in its barrage of images. Vriens- ceo of the CFDA. “In our sixth season, pull in some of its advertisers to partner McGrath calls Tumblr “more informative we continue to support designer on lounges and cocktail stations for the than any library in the world and as alumni from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion event. It also gives the designers featured addictive as crack.” Fund by providing access to new by Northern Grade greater exposure. Based in Hollywood, Vriens-McGrath retail relationships and international Brands include Billy Reid, Fellow Barber, noted he also plans to introduce an opportunities.” Giles & Brother, Rancourt & Co., Haspel, interior title in spring 2015. This season Tumi luggage will Taylor Stitch, Appalatch and Noble Denim, — MiLEs sOcHA be sending each of the Paris-bound according to Northern Grade cofounder American designers with three pieces and creative director kat McMillan, who

of luggage. Fans can keep up with Frederic duPoux noted that they are all American-made. the designers on Twitter via @CFDA “Our focus was keeping it [the and @Tumitravel on their adventures marketplace] with people manufacturing during Paris Fashion Week. Photo by here,” McMillan said, explaining that — ROsEMARY FEiTELBERG Former President clinton visits the industrial although Northern Grade has hosted Revolution ii factory in Haiti. similar events in other cities, this one GREENPEAcE PROTEsTs: Milan Fashion holds a particular significance. “We feel Week started Wednesday with a organization, following a $250,000 this partnership represents how both Greenpeace protest to demand toxic- grant given last year to Haitian GQ and Northern Grade understand free fashion. The activists caught the recycling plant Sustainable Recycling how media and retail relationships are attention of tourists and shoppers Solutions, in efforts to further changing,” she said, before adding that in the storied Galleria Vittorio revitalize Port-Au-Prince. the venue is also conveniently located Emanuele, in front of the Duomo, with — ARTHUR FRiEDMAN around the corner from her apartment. their campaign #TheKingIsNaked. And there’s that, too. A pair of fashion images from the debut issue of Activists swung from the dome of the sTEALiNG BEAUTY: Olivia Palermo caused — ALEXANDRA sTEiGRAD Tvtor by Matthias Vriens-McGrath. Galleria to hang a large poster with such a stir with her appearance the words: “Beautiful fashion, ugly at designer Elisabetta Franchi’s lies? #TheKingIsNaked.” presentation at Milan Fashion Week, In its last report, Greenpeace she ended up overshadowing the analyzed different products, clothes. On a dark set resembling a especially for children, that were forest in winter, models paraded in manufactured by major luxury Cinderella-inspired white outfits. brands such as Versace, Louis Afterward, guests squeezed through a Vuitton, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, narrow corridor to a back room where Marc Jacobs, Giorgio Armani and Palermo stood in a sea of flashbulbs. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Hermès. The report stated that these A fixture on the style pages of products allegedly release hazardous fashion magazines, Palermo is chemicals toxic for health and the thinking about launching her own environment. fashion line. “It’s something I’ve chiara campione, campaigner always wanted to do, but I think it’s Spaces of Greenpeace Italy, said the going to take some time. I have a lot demonstration was set up “to ask on my hands at the moment,” said the COMMERCIAL Italian brands, especially Versace, reality star-turned-fashion blogger, REAL ESTATE LUXURY HANGERS MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED because it has the highest level of who got engaged to her long-term The most comprehensive collection of Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- hazardous chemicals in its products, to boyfriend, German model Johannes luxury women’s and men’s hangers on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ available in the world, 4 different stores. If you sell to fashion accessory publicly commit to eliminate harmful Huebl, on New Year’s Eve. sizes. www.hangerproject.com buyers, email: [email protected]. substances from the various stages of “I consult and travel and I’m a (800) 495-3201 production. Milan’s fashion model full-time. I think in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTIONS week is just beginning, and time, when I have a bit of BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Full service shop to the trade. probably there will be other a break, I’ll be able to,” Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 protests in these days and also she added. maybe during Paris’ fashion In the meantime, Palermo week, because also French is promoting emerging brands are involved in the designers through her Greenpeace report.” Web site oliviapalermo. Addressing these com’s recently launched allegations, Gianni Versace e-commerce partnership SpA said “to reassure with The Fancy. [customers] that it has put in “It’s going well. We’re place a system of mapping growing, evolving. We’re and selection of suppliers working on our e-com right based on rigorous production StéPhane Feugère now and trying to make that by (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] organization. (Reach — Olivia Palermo stronger,” she said.

Regulation European Union Photo — JOELLE DiDERicH

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February 20, 2014

VEGAS TRENDS Lardini’s wool coat, Billy Reid’s alpaca sweater and Crossley’s Retailers Tap wool and nylon sweatpants. Quinn Scarf. Man on Into New the Move ‘Ath-Leisure’ Updated clothing and Today’s man is seeking sportswear pieces seen a wardrobe that spurring sales for fall addresses all of his by JEAN E. PALMIERI travel and leisure LAS VEGAS — It’s not rocket science — the needs. At the Las secret to success is to offer fresh, differenti- ated product at a reasonable price. Vegas trade shows, With a strengthening economy as the backdrop, retailers hit the trade shows here vendors offered a this week to check out thousands of brands variety of options they hoped would fit that bill. Among the most saleable trends were updated prints that ranged from including plaids, double-faced fabrics and mixed media, quilting, distressed finishes tailored topcoats and “fast-fashion accessories” including pat- terned socks, pocket squares and “statement to cashmere bags,” according to The Doneger Group’s merchants at the group’s annual opening-day sweatpants — trend presentation. and everything Outdoor-inspired apparel, driven by a trend toward ath-leisure, is also a driving in between. force for fall, and this translated into textured knits, colorblocking, fashion sweatpants and tech outerwear, according to Tim Bess, Doneger’s men’s fashion trend analyst. On the flip side, Bess said, a “post-casual-business mix” such as sweaters worn with suits, slim-fit sport coats, printed dress shirts, tapered trou- sers and contemporary slim neckwear and ac- cessories were also highlights of the season. Patty Leto, senior vice president of mer- chandising for Doneger, said men’s wear sales rose 5.3 percent in 2013 to approach $60 billion in sales. These gains were driven by the Millennial customer, who was drawn to “innovation and newness. They’re choos- ing comfort, performance and fit,” she said, noting that the men’s market is “more dy- namic than ever. Change is happening and men are embracing it,” she concluded. Ronny Wurtzburger, president of Peerless Clothing, agreed. “If you give the customer the right thing at the right price, you’re going to win.” For the tailored clothing company, that includes three-piece suits, popular for fall and even for spring; a new color palette that includes a shade lighter than the traditional navy, and more narrow trousers in both suits ALEX BADIA and separates. “We have to be more like wom- en’s ready-to-wear,” Wurtzburger added, “and give men a reason to buy something new.” Mario Bisio, owner of Mario’s in Portland, Ore., and Seattle, said, “There’s a lot of great ANGELES; STYLED BY product out there. So it’s really about how good a retailer you can be. People are bring- ing their A game and you have to do your homework. The difficult part is editing.”

WILHELMINA LOS Arlene Goldstein, vice president of trend merchandising and fashion direction for Belk, pointed to chambray shirts, nondenim bottoms, tailored vests, puffer vests, active- wear brands and “completer pieces” as the “tools for [our customer] to create an unex- pected wardrobe.” Mike Nemoir, senior vice president and

AT MODEL: AARON THORNTON general merchandise manager of men’s wear for The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., said the men’s business continues to be a bright spot for the HARAWAY; store and he was searching for the right brands to strengthen the outdoors business, as well as BRYAN key looks in young men’s and updated denim. BY

PHOTO For more trends from the Vegas trade shows, see pages MW2 through MW4. MW2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 Men’s Week

patterns including college logos in New York on Monday before and everything from professional expanding distribution for fall. sports teams to golf flags, Jolly Prices: $835 retail Rogers and colorful stripes. For SHOW STOPPERS fall, the brand has begun dabbling Brand: Chamula in polo shirts as well. Designer: Yuki Matsuda The Las Vegas men’s shows — Project, MAGIC Men’s, Pool, Design inspiration/aesthetic: Key styles: The hat design was Founded in 2004 by two college inspired by Fifties ski resorts Liberty, Agenda, Capsule and MRket — were full of saleable buddies, the Bethesda, Md.- and features a pom-pom at the based company started life as a top. Patterns range from solid options for retailers for fall. Here, a look at some of the needlepoint belt brand. It works fisherman cable knits to colorful with skilled artisans in Vietnam and Fair Isles. standouts. — Jean E. Palmieri, Alex Badia and Rachel Brown now employs thousands of stitchers Design/inspiration: Hand-knit to create a full line of accessories in a small village in southern that range from wallets and key fobs Mexico, Chamula uses wool from to flip-flops and coasters, all with a Chamula Brand: Vans Vans on the hoods, and tapered knee- Prices: Pants will retail for $125 to Key styles: length, drop-crotch sweat shorts. $195, and wovens from $145 to $155. VF Corp.- Design inspiration/aesthetic: owned Vans “I’m all about the Brand: Tiger of Sweden spotlighted silhouettes. I want to Key styles: Classic tailored men’s capsule modernize basics,” wear staples are given a twist in collections said Sung, a pieces such as a Harris tweed with “Star New Yorker who bomber jacket, elongated sweaters Smathers & Branson Wars” imagery, a started KNYEW and a shadow-plaid sport coat. collaboration with to fill a void in the surfboard fin brand streetwear market Tiger of preppy sensibility. Captain Fin Co. and in his adopted home of Las Sweden Prices: Belts retail for $165, key an elevated California Vegas. fobs are $28.50, hats are $35 and range. Prices: $48 to $120 flip-flops are $89.50. Design inspiration/aesthetic: Vans believes “Star Wars’” Brand: Staple Brand: Beretta characters like Yoda and Darth Designers: Jeff Staple, aka Jeff Key styles: The Vintage Years Vader resonate with its target Ng, is creative director and collection, which has been sold in male customers ages 16 to 24. The founder, and Courtney Walker is Europe for years, is now available sheep that graze in the remote Captain Fin Co. pieces incorporate design director. in America. It includes a Teflon- mountains in that region, resulting its anchor logo and color palette of Key styles: T-shirts with scalloped coated, water-repellent jacket, in a unique, soft range of offerings. gold, burgundy and black. The more bottoms that mimic baseball as well as a waxed cotton plaid Prices: $70 to $90 retail sophisticated California collection jerseys, football jerseys with is aimed at the older end of its pigeon-wing designs and Navajo- Beretta Brand: Aloha Sunday target consumers. Designer: Kahana Kalama Prices: Key styles: From $22 to $100, with Staple The fall assortment is the California collection more based on vintage Hawaiian motifs expensive than the others modernized for today, and each category is designed for a specific Brand: VDE, which stands for Design inspiration/aesthetic: occasion, such as patterned Vanteria di Eleganza, or “bragging After more than a 20-year absence, swimwear for the beach in Maui or of elegance” in Italian the venerable European brand a blanket coat with toggle closures Designer: Reggie Aguiluz is returning to the States for fall for the Aspen mountains. Key styles: Zippered, hooded with a full collection for men and Design/inspiration: The resort- jackets with nylon, cotton, women. The collection features spandex and polyester, athletic quality fabrics and updated Aloha Sunday samurai pants in imported styling in everything from jeans and sweaters to shearlings and leathers. Prices: A leather motorcycle jacket is $725, and a military- inspired parka is $525.

patterned trim, and shirts with Brand: Asphalt Yacht Club nylon shaped into chevrons atop Designers: Professional cotton. skateboarder Stevie Williams hunting jacket. Design inspiration/aesthetic: founded Asphalt Yacht Club, and Design inspiration/aesthetic: The influence of sports on its the creative director is Peter With a history that dates back collection is increasing, Walker Huynh. more than 500 years, Beretta has said. In addition, “Prints are Key styles: Flannels with a vintage built its reputation servicing the FOR MORE, SEE VDE starting to fade and fabrications Americana feel, oxford shirts with sporting man. All of its styles WWD.com/ are coming on strong,” he said, Asphalt’s logo on the pockets, feature technical elements and menswear-news. Japanese-milled oil-treated nylon pointing to a mix of twill with and khaki pants and boardshorts functional features such as and cotton, or nylon and cotton nylon and cotton jersey in the accented with floral prints. covered buttons that won’t scratch with bias paneling. same garment. Design inspiration/aesthetic: a hunter’s gun. Design inspiration/aesthetic: Prices: $28 to $100 Brand manager Richard Marshall Prices: $800 to $900 Aguiluz is enthusiastic about said the brand is designed with inspired collection of swimwear, adding high-fashion touches to Brand: Bill’s Khakis the “modern young man” in Asphalt Brand: Grenson sportswear and outerwear is all sporty styles. He envisions the Designer: Bill Thomas mind, who isn’t boxed into Yacht Club Key styles: A classic derby, a made in the U.S. and designed by VDE customer as “someone who’s Key styles: Khakis are available one particular community brogue and a plain derby in Kahana Kalama, a Hawaii-born an athlete who likes to look good, with a lower rise and trimmer fit, or culture. “He listens to black, brown and tan former pro surfer. The name derives but is a sports fanatic.” five-pocket jeans are offered in Jay Z and The Black Keys. Design inspiration/aesthetic: from a Hawaiian expression, Aloha Prices: $32 to $295 distressed washed finishes, He wears Balenciaga and The U.K.-based footwear brand Friday, the celebration of the end of and collared shirts are more Marc Jacobs, and he is offering a new range for a work week. Brand: KNYEW, which tailored and slim. wears Vans and RVCA,” fall called The Triple Welt. Prices: Swimwear, available stands for Keeping New Design inspiration/aesthetic: he elaborated. “We Based on a Norwegian year-round, ranges from $80 to York Every Where and Long revered take the best of style featuring a ripply $160; wovens average $150, and is pronounced “new” for its superior- Bill’s each subculture edge on the top welt, the outerwear is $300 to $400. Designers: Richard fitting casual Khakis in skate shoes are all handmade in Sung, who goes by his pants, the brand and street England. They will launch Brand: Weiss Watch Co. DJ name Crooked, has branched fashion with a pop-up shop at Designer: Cameron Weiss and Ray Anthony out into a and Freemans Sporting Club Key styles: For the first season, Key styles: Sung new arena blend.” Weiss has created a field watch and Anthony make with the fall Prices: with a variety of straps and faces KNYEW statements with their launch of $30 to in a polished or matte finish. All atypical silhouettes, Tea Label. $160 retail feature a display case back. notably T-shirts Named after Design/inspiration: Owner finished with high- British soldiers Brand: Cameron Weiss cut his teeth low and scalloped who dyed their Smathers & learning the art of watchmaking bottoms that are four white uniforms with Branson at a prestigious Swiss school, to six inches longer tea in the 1840s, Key styles: Belts followed by on-the-job training HARAWAY BRYAN than regular Ts, short the contemporary and related Grenson at two Switzerland-based watch raglan-sleeved hoodies collection is all products offer brands. Weiss has taken those

with button closures American-made. a wide range of skills back home to the U.S. and is PHOTOS BY Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 MW3

Brand: Weiss Watch Co. based denim company is Marc Ecko Cut & Sew elevating its offering for fall with J. Lindeberg Key styles: Trompe l’oeil patterns a black selvage program that will abound on sport shirts, blazers complement its signature blue and pants including a “tie” denim range. pattern down the front of a sport Prices: Jeans will retail for $249, shirt and cavalry twill pants that and the jacket is $399. look like wovens. Design/inspiration: The Iconix- Brand: Benson owned contemporary brand is Key styles: Merino and acrylic Clocks and Colours sweatpants, cashmere waffle-knit Marc Ecko building what he bills as America’s sweaters and acid-wash T-shirts Cut & Sew first luxury watch brand. and fleece pieces are some of is inspired by motorcycle Prices: Around $1,000 the key pieces this season for culture. the quintessential American Prices: Tie clips retail for Brand: Enter label. $120, and a solid silver cuff Key styles: Vintage-inspired Design/inspiration: with oxidized stones is duffles, briefcases, backpacks Although always a Benson $1,000. and laptop cases are made from favorite of skiwear heavy canvas and vegetable- and outdoors tanned leathers, most in earth retailers, the Earnest New York-based Sewn textured wool knit pants, modern Enter sportswear brand suits and a burgundy double- is moving into breasted topcoat an even more Design/inspiration: The theme active-inspired for the Swedish-based collection direction with its this season is hidden beauty, fall collection. an inspiration that translates Prices: The into outerwear pieces featuring majority of the technical features and wool pants collection will retail with subtle plaid patterns. now being designed by its founder, for under $100, but Prices: Shirts retail for $185 to Marc Ecko. He has repositioned the sweatpants are $148 $240; suits are $850 to $1,000, and the label for fall with an “angry, and the cashmere sweater outerwear is $700 to $850. preppy approach” centered is $380. around the relationship between Brand: Canada Goose teacher and student. Brand: Den im by Siki Im Key styles: Parkas, many with Prices: Wovens retail for $80 to Key styles: Jeans are offered in coyote-fur trim on the hoods, $110, jackets for $179 to $200 and slim, peg and classic cuts from feature taped seams, stretch bottoms for around $90. Cone Mills denim and include panels, upgraded zippers Brand: Levi’s Brand: Earnest Sewn Canada Key styles: The comprehensive Den im by Key styles: Jeans styles range Goose offering of briefs, boxer briefs, tones with pops of color such as Siki Im from slouchy, slim and skinny to trunks, T-shirts and tank tops is red or yellow. straight in finishes that run the offered in a range of price points, Design/inspiration: The gamut from raw to dark. There’s from moderate (the 200 series, Stockholm-based brand was born also stretch denim and a winter available at Macy’s) to premium about a decade ago out of a love white offering. cotton (the 300 series, available at for vintage apparel and fabrics. Design/inspiration: The brand, Nordstrom). There’s also a merino The headquarters is in an old which is celebrating its 10th wool grouping, the 400 series, as section of the city in a building anniversary this year, has well as a Commuter Series, which that dates from the 1500s. relaunched its denim collection combines performance attributes Prices: Canvas products retail with cleaner finishes and a more with fashion features. Woven for around $270, while all-leather modern range of silhouettes. boxers and a range of socks are models average $380. Prices: Jeans sell from $145 to also offered. $245 for the Japanese selvage. Design inspiration/aesthetic: Brand: St. Moritz The collection, produced by Key styles: Ski sweaters with a Brand: Norman Russell Mad Projects, pays homage to snowflake logo — the brand’s Key styles: A leather jacket with the heritage of the jeanswear trademark — as well as chunky a plaid interior, chambray shirts hand-knit cardigans. and a range of jeans in a variety Levi’s Design inspiration/aesthetic: of washes and a black leather patch to The Italian brand offers differentiate the Branta brand ski-inspired knitwear from Canada Goose’s main line. with a true resort Norman Design/inspiration: The venerable feeling. The sweaters Russell Toronto-based outerwear company are hand-knit in hidden shank buttons has introduced an elevated Europe from washed and shaped knee darts, brand for fall under the Branta lamb’s wool. among other updated label. Featuring Loro Piana Prices: $275 to $295 details. The tops are Storm System fabrics, elevated 100 percent cotton and linings and slimmer, more Brand: Nudie Jeans offer ergonomic cuts in modern silhouettes, the line is Co. St. Moritz layering Ts, crewnecks targeted to the customer seeking a Key styles: The and track jackets. technologically superior product new black selvage There are also chinos, that doesn’t look too sporty. program offers a Thirties-inspired sweatpants and terry Prices: The collection ranges from workwear jacket with back pleats shorts. $750 to $1,900. and gunmetal details and red Design/inspiration: A lower-priced interior trim. Jeans are produced collection from the designer, whose Brand: Coast-Wide from the same organic Japanese background includes stints at Key styles: The button-down fabrics and are 13.5 ounces. Helmut Lang and Karl Lagerfeld, chambray shirts feature vintage- Design/inspiration: The Sweden- the line offers jeans as well as inspired yokes and pockets with brand by offering detailing fleece and jerseys, all made in a variety of embroidered accents such as brass rivets, red chain Nudie Jeans Co. America. that range from arrowheads to outline stitching and the brand’s Prices: Everything retails for less Design/inspiration: The artisan moons and several colorful signature red bat-wing logo. than $300. denim brand offers limited- Native American-inspired Prices: A two-pack from edition jeans — only 270 patterns. the 200 series ranges Brand: Clocks pieces per fit, per wash — and Design/inspiration: from $24.50 to and Colours complementary shirts and jackets Coast-Wide’s $26.50; a two-pack Key styles: Polished silver rings, that are described as the “GQ denim shirts from the 300 series tie clips, pendants and bracelets man’s workwear.” The label takes were popular costs $2 more, and with a variety of patterns including inspiration from “the strength, with coal miners the 400 series, skulls and other embellishments durability and ruggedness in the Forties which is sold in Design/inspiration: For the past of generations of denim and have been singles, retails for three years, Shane Vitaly has manufacturing.” reworked for $45 to $50 for the offered a lifestyle streetwear Prices: Jeans average around today’s customers underwear and $65 to jewelry line under the Vitaly $285, shirts are $188 to $198 and by using Japanese Coast-Wide $75 for the crewnecks. name. For fall, he’s branching the leather jacket is $1,200. fabrics that are then The Commuter Series out into a “more refined” sterling hand-embroidered in retails from $29.50 to silver collection under the Brand: J. Lindeberg Los Angeles in limited runs. $32.50, and the woven boxers Clocks and Colours moniker that Key styles: Washed plaid shirts, Prices: $225 to $475 retail are $20 each. MW4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 2014 Men’s Week

Man of MATTEO RENZI: A THE WEEK VEGAS TRENDS The cropped The new Italian Prime Minister-designate biker obviously draws his fashion knowledge from jacket: The his years as mayor of Florence, the home of Brooklyn Circus Pitti Uomo. The 39-year-old politician wears sartorial Italian classics with elegant flair.

He has great thick, dark Although he doesn’t Italian hair. Let’s see if his new have movie-star position causes a few gray looks, he’s handsome strands to poke through. for a politician. Textured knits: Canadian Sweater Co. Furry textures: Reason

Wearable Allover The subtle peak technology: prints: lapel hints at a HBSuper by Adidas The narrow playful side and HoodieBuddie Originals black tie, elevates the Blue together chic factor. with the spread-collar white shirt, is the most sophisticated FOR MORE, SEE choice. WWD.com/ menswear-news. Men’s wear necklaces: Cartography The coat’s softly constructed but still defined shoulder is Winter Quilting very relevant in Italian tailored white: effects: clothing and works well over Haspel Rainforest suits without looking too boxy. American politicians need to take notice.

The fitted double-breasted works well for the young man, who obviously isn’t indulging in too much pasta.

The rich brown soft-shell briefcase is the new go-to Three piece The slim fit and lack of a bag for today’s active suits:

break are super Italian — NEW PRESS PHOTO/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS businessman. Lauren Ralph and superchic. Lauren PHOTO BY Graphic sneakers: Master of Arts

Dressy sweatpants: Burkman Bros. HARAWAY BRYAN PHOTOS BY