Issue No. 204 Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Belgrade’s Making Nipple YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 floating the most tattooing slow [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 rite of of spring to catch on in BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 spring break Serbia

Page 5 Page 9 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Hazy EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Vučić uses PM’s post to future for - - - hog limelight in Serbia Serbia'sNEWS copperNEWS In the run-up to

giant “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: next week’s elec- party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. tions, it has become difficult to differen- While the long- page 10 tiate between the term solution for premier's official RTB Bor remains uncertain, Serbian duties and his cam- hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

taxpayers will a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. paign rallies. W continue to pay June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

Saša DRAGOJLO for company mismanagement. page 5 ith his high-level meetings with re- gional and interna- tional chiefs and Stevan VELJOVIĆ frequent visits to conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the bigW and small, adjacent and remote nly a month from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party local communities, Serbian Prime extended deadline E Minister and Progressive Party leader for privatization, the Aleksandar Vučić is all over the media, future of RTB Bor, Ser- totally overshadowing his rivals a week bia's copper mining and ahead of the general election. smelting complex – and Friday • June 13 2008 The latest in a series of activities was theO biggest employer in eastern Serbia – the meeting on April 13th with his Hun- seems far from certain. garian counterpart, Viktor Orban, in On May 31st, the last 11 companies in re- Subotica, in the northern province of Vo- structuring, including RTB Bor, will lose THIS ISSUE OF jvodina, where the two statesmen jointly protection from enforced debt collection Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED opened a Hungarian-owned factory. and are due to be privatized or closed. on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic For more than a decade, the restructur- which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Continued on page 3 Vučić and other Serbian officials laying a foundation of the first IKEA store in Serbia. Photo: Beta ing process protected hundreds of state- owned companies from bankruptcy. This allowed RTB Bor to continue operations despite €1 billion in debt which the com- pany was not able to service. Italian soldiers keep dying Even though the legal restructuring deadline is expiring, government officials have hinted that they will not leave RTB Bor and its 5,000 workers at the mercy of from ‘Balkan syndrome’ market forces and creditors. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić re- At least 300 Italian soldiers may have died from ex- tory] association, which represents the of the war in Bosnia and Kosovo,” he viewed an analysis of the RTB Bor situa- victims and their relatives. recalled. tion prepared by consulting firm McKin- posure to depleted uranium in Bosnia and Kosovo Leggiero said it was impossible to sey and reported on March 22nd that this - but the Italian authorities continue to deny the know exactly how many of these sol- THE 'BALKAN SYNDROME' “big and important company, from which diers specifically died from the conse- whole eastern Serbia depends“, must sur- existence of a connection. quences of NATO bombing campaigns The first cases of soldiers dying from vive. sions to Bosnia, Kosovo, Afghanistan in Kosovo and Bosnia because they what the Italian media calls the “Balkan The leader of the Progressive Party, Rodolfo TOE and Iraq, while another 3,700 are sick also served elsewhere. Syndrome” were recorded between SNS, repeated that message at April 9th for the same reason. “After [serving in] the Balkans, many 1999 and 2000. election rally in Bor, insisting that Serbia ore than 300 Ital- “To date, 331 Italian soldiers have of them were deployed also in Afghani- Six Italian soldiers who had taken part “has not many things worth as much as ian soldiers may died and another 3,764 have developed stan and Iraq, where depleted uranium in missions in Bosnia after the end of the RTB Bor." have died during cancer as a consequence of having was also used,” Leggiero explained. war there, from 1996 to 1998, were re- the past 15 years been exposed to depleted uranium,” “But this issue only entered the ported to have died of cancer as a conse- from exposure said Daniele Leggiero, a former Italian public domain after the first cases of quence of exposure to depleted uranium. without protec- pilot who is now president of the Os- soldiers dying of cancer or leukae- Mtion to depleted uranium during mis- servatorio Militare [Military Observa- mia were recorded among veterans Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Perennials of the Vučić uses PM’s post to political scene hog limelight in Serbia arlier in the week, Vučić open every single kilometre of a road or took part in the opening of to attend the renovation of every toilet,” Serbia’s April 2016 parliamentary elections have shone a spotlight on members the regional Mostar busi- Transparency suggested in its report. ness forum in neighbour- of the political class. Here’s a quick glimpse at four of Serbia’s most intriguing and ing Bosnia and Herzegovi- CHAMPION OF MEDIA na, where he met Bosnia's best-known leaders. tripartiteE presidency as well as Croatian Vučić is not only having the most pro- President Kolinda Grabar Kitarović - un- motional events in the election campaign BIRN Team derlining his importance and good stand- but is also the most positively represent- ing in the Balkan region. ed politician in the media. Later on the same day he flew to Banja The Belgrade think tank, the Bureau Luka, where he met the President of Bos- for Social Research, BIRODI, on April 11th, nia’s Serb-dominated entity, Republika presented a media survey for the period Srpska, Milorad Dodik, to discuss coop- of March 25th until March 31st, which noted eration and joint infrastructure projects. that mentions of Vučić in the media are “It is important that the citizens of [Re- almost always in a positive context. publika] Srpska feel safe because of Ser- The Prime Minister did not have a bia,” the media quoted Vučić as saying. single negative mention on the highly It seems a perfect balancing act, show- influential TV station Pink TV, had only ing Vučić both as a determined sponsor one negative second on Prva TV, two on of regional stability as well as a Serbian Happy TV, eight on public broadcaster patriot. RTS and 80 negative seconds on B92. The week was the culmination of activ- Analysis of the electronic media with ities conducted over the past two months national frequency coverage, conducted in which Vučić had appeared all over Ser- by Kliping agency from April 1st to April bia, opening private firms and factories, 7th showed that more than 60 per cent of visiting hospitals, construction sites and election coverage covered Vučić’s party. fairs, signing agreements on construc- “Members of the ruling Progressive- tion, investments and scholarships, pre- led coalition got 61.5 per cent of the time senting plans, chatting with citizens and while the entire opposition had only 29.9 workers and much more. per cent,” Ilija Vučević, Kliping’s spokes- After early parliamentary as well as lo- man, said on April 11th. Vučić with the workers at the Trepča mining complex. Photo: Beta cal elections were called for April 24th two In the meantime, with only a week left months ago, Vučić said his election cam- Mayor Siniša Mali, city manager Goran Vesić In a show of support for the “entrepre- until the elections, Serbia’s Prime Minister paign would last “only for ten days”. FROM BAPTIZING RIVER and Aleksandar Vulin, the Labour Minister. neurial spirit”, Vučić awarded a plaque is not letting his guard down and is keep- What has followed has been quite dif- CRUISES TO PIPELINE The three men attended 25 such events to the best electronic certificate holders ing his campaign up to speed, visiting ferent. Weeks ago, he even went on a tour DRILLING SITES each, only three events less than their boss, in the category of small and medium en- some of the more remote places in Serbia. checking the quality of toilets in several Vučić, who was the champion with 28. terprises on February 12th, and opened a On April 7th, he visited the Nektar juice small towns and villages. “We need qual- Since the official start of the campaign, Known as an “early bird”, Vučić often regional Coca Cola centre a day later. factory in Vladičin Han, a small town in Photo: Beta Photo: Beta Photo: Beta Photo: Beta ity and modern toilets,” Vučić said on his Vučić has spoken at 16 Serbian Progres- schedules several activities for one day With the Pensioners' Party as part of his southern Serbia. He also checked the situ- visit to Valjevo’s Dr Miša Pantić medical sive Party election rallies in different and is almost always followed by an army ruling coalition, the Prime Minister then ation in the Belanova 2014 factory, which school on March 28th. towns. of reporters. joined a chess game at the Dragiša Ćirić makes vegetable fat-based products and ALEKSANDAR VUČIĆ IVICA DAČIĆ VOJISLAV ŠEŠELJ BOJAN PAJTIĆ The “toilet tour” was just one of the The Transparency report recorded a Surrounded by workers in helmets, senior citizens’ club in Zemun, on the out- skimmed milk powder, and presided more vivid and paradigmatic illustra- 160-per-cent increase of his “promotional he launched construction work on the skirts of Belgrade, on February 13th. over the ceremony celebrating the first Serbia’s Prime Minister has spent his life preparing A key member of every government since he Against all odds, Vojislav Šešelj continues to pro- Bojan Pajtić’s Democratic Party has become weak- tions of Vučić’s promotional activities in activities” in the observed three-week pe- bridge in Ostružnica, a municipality near On February 24th, he visited Svilajnac, constructed machine for the production himself to hold the reins of power. Whether he will revived the Socialist Party’s fortunes in 2008, Dačić mote his nationalist cause despite dwindling public ened and divided in recent years, and continues to his election campaign. riod. Belgrade, on January 19th. a small town in central Serbia, to check of aluminum-steel cables for transmis- be Serbia’s saviour or its despot remains to be seen. has struggled to escape the shadow of senior Pro- support for his hardline rhetoric. struggle for survival. According to the election campaign re- His overwhelming presence in the Two weeks later, he attended the cere- reconstruction efforts of the local school sion lines in the Smelting Ltd. Factory. A skilled opportunist, Vučić has worked long and gressive Party partners. Back in the 1980s, no one could have guessed that The acting president of the Democratic Party, port published on April 5th by the Transpar- media inspired some citizens to joke that mony of the A-1 phase of pipeline drilling building damaged in the 2014 floods. And all that in one day. hard to prepare the ground for his party’s ascension, Foreign minister by occupation, journalist by such a brilliant academic would end up in the dock Pajtić belongs to a group of younger politicians ency International watchdog organisation Vučić would soon be seen jumping out of for a tunnel in the construction project of He did not skip Kalinovac on March 12th, “The ruling party and its president in building up his image as Serbia’s own Vladimir Putin. education and an entertainer with a microphone of an international court. But the nationalist fanatic who took the stage in Serbia following the fall of the in Serbia, between March 14th and April 3rd people’s freezers and pantries. the Corridor 11 highway. where he visited a newly built school in this sense have a double advantage. They After four years in power, he enjoys almost plebi- whenever there is an opportunity, Ivica Dačić leads who dreamed of an ethnically-cleansed “Greater Ser- regime of Slobodan Milošević in October 2000. alone, Vučić held 28 “promotional activi- Joking aside, Transparency Serbia and Cameras were flashing again when he this village of only 400 inhabitants in the are almost omnipresent, especially in the scitary support among voters, and his influence is the second-strongest political party in Serbia. It was bia” was acquitted after a 13-year trial interrupted by After starting as a “new young force” in 2001, as an ties” not including his premier’s duties. other experts warned of the misuse of visited the Belgrade-based private com- west of Serbia. case of the Prime Minister. All others in MP in the Serbian parliament, today he is fighting for understood to have long coat-tails for candidates in Dačić who lifted the party from the five per cent hunger strikes, scandals involving judges, intimida- “For some of the promotional activities state functions by politicians during the mercial aircraft overhaul company SR Followed by an army of journalists, he that sense are handicapped,” Dražen Pav- tion of witnesses and procedural issues. In the end, survival as leader of the once-dominant Democratic local elections to ride. threshold needed to enter parliament. recorded in the past three weeks, it is dif- campaign. Technics on February 9th. was also present at the ceremonial hand- lica, from BIRODI, said. the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Party. Since July 2012, when his Serbian Progressive Already a smaller party with less support than ficult to conclude what the explanation “Officials are organizing ‘pseudo- His participation in the solemn cer- over of 10 combat vehicles and boats for BIRN requested a comment from Party, SNS, first formed the government, Vučić Vučić’s Progressives, Dačić’s Socialists lost one of Yugoslavia found Šešelj not guilty of all counts of Pajtić is seen as a politician who knows the tech- for the involvement of state officials is,” events’…and then in the same place hold- emony in which a new river cruiser was special purposes to the Serbian police on Vučić's office regarding concerns -ex has established control over the defence, security their key allies and longtime coalition partners war crimes in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia nology of governance, but he is not widely recog- Transparency noted, adding that their re- ing party conferences,” it wrote. baptized at the Vahali shipyward in Srem- March 26th. pressed by the Transparency Interna- and secret services, making almost every field of when the Party of United Pensioners of Serbia, PUPS, and Serbia during the early years of the breakup of nized throughout the country as a national leader. port did not include visits to surrounding The most active in this field, it said were ska Mitrovica, in Vojvodina, on February “Life does not need to stop during the tional and other local NGOs, but received national and political life his business - from foreign signed a coalition agreement with the Progressives. Yugoslavia. He has been the main political figure in Vojvodina municipalities. Progressive Party officials from Belgrade, 11th, also went viral. campaign, but state official do not have to no reply. investment and talks on Kosovo to fighting crime Dačić reportedly learned of this development sec- During the wars, Šešelj became known for since 2004, first as president of the executive council and corruption, improving the quality of water and ondhand from media coverage, and responded by extreme rhetoric which he used to mobilise Serbs to 2008 and then as prime minister of province for even rescuing people from snowstorms. accusing PUPS leader Milan Krkobabić of behaving across the region. He founded a new far-right group, the last two electoral terms. Vučić’s most notable characteristic is a willingness unfairly. the Serbian Radical Party, in 1991. The same year he He became widely known in public in 2003 to adapt in order to stay ahead. His opportunism Dačić then hurried to replace PUPS with a less became an MP in Serbia's National Assembly. in connection to the “Bodrum case” in which he prompted him to change course abruptly in 2008. significant partner, the Greens of Serbia. The coali- He openly advocated making some areas mono- admitted arranging for several MPs to vote in the Overnight, the hard-line “Greater Serbia” advocate tion also counts on the support of United Serbia and ethnic through population swaps and deportations - assembly when they were not actually present, with and foe of the EU turned into the moderate, reform- it leader, Dragan Marković “Palma”. what has been referred to as “ethnic cleansing” - and colleagues using their cards. One was on holiday in ist champion of Serbia’s EU membership. “Our people need victories,” said Dačić on the urged the mass expulsion of Croats, who he called Bodrum, Turkey, at the time. From 1992 to 1993, he worked as a journalist for campaign trail. “There have been lots of defeats and “Ustaša”, a reference to the WWII pro-Nazi regime in With his powerbase in Vojvodina, Pajtić has come Kanal S, a television station based in Pale, which the SPS-JS coalition will fight so that there are more Croatia. under heavy fire from the ruling Progressive Party, was the headquarters of the Bosnian Serb leader, victories because this coalition works exclusively in Before surrendering to stand trial for war crimes, which has sought to demonize him precisely be- Radovan Karadžić. the interests of the Serbian citizens.” Šešelj made a defiant, prophetic speech: “With their cause the province remains the only place in Serbia In 1993 he joined the hardline Serbian Radical During the Nineties, while Slobodan Milošević stupid charges against me, they have come up where the Democratic Party exercises real power. Party, led by Vojislav Šešelj. Over the next two years, was whipping up Serbian nationalism in a drive to against the greatest living Serb legal mind. I shall After the elections in 2008 he was seen as a possi- Vučić toured Serb-controlled areas of Bosnia and carve a “Greater Serbia,” Dačić served as the party blast them to pieces.” And indeed, the defence ble candidate for the post of Prime Minister of Serbia Croatia with Tomislav Nikolić, where Radical Party spokesperson and was an MP. prevailed at trial. but it never happened. volunteers were fighting. The seismic changes of October 2000 that felled Šešelj remains a fixture in political life again in He became head of the Democratic Party in 2014, In 1998, Vučić became a minister in late Serbian the Milošević regime were a disaster for Dačić, Serbia - holding rallies, making speeches and giving following the early general election, when party strongman Slobodan Milošević’s so-called “govern- resulting in his temporary removal from the public interviews full of 1990s rhetoric that have offended members chose him over the former Belgrade ment of national unity.” scene. Along with the other disgraced decision- war victims. mayor and former party leader, Dragan Đilas. Following the fall of Milošević in 2000, Vučić was makers who had isolated Serbia from the world in Some of his former party members are now in The Democratic Party has also undergone many speaker of parliament until 2008. After Šešelj sur- the Nineties, he suddenly became silent. power - President Tomislav Nikolić and Prime Min- splits and divisions in recent years, most recently rendered to the Hague war-crimes tribunal, Vučić Milošević’s death at the Hague tribunal in De- ister Aleksandar Vučić were both close allies before on the eve of the general elections in 2014, when the became the party’s deputy president, replacing cember 2006 marked the end of Dačić’s exile from they quit the Serbian Radical Party. Šešelj has called former party leader and former Serbian President Nikolić, who advanced to the position of head of the politics. He assumed the leadership of Milošević’s them both traitors for leaving to set up the Serbian Boris Tadić broke away and formed a new party. Radicals. shattered Socialist Party and began modernize it Progressive Party and forsaking his nationalist As a result, Pajtić has had to fight to retain a place in Soon after, in 2008, Nikolić and Vučić formed SNS. and put its old war-mongering ideology behind it. philosophy for pro-European rhetoric. national governance. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Some splavs are known for their food. They open early to offer a cheery Belgrade dobro jutro to those seeking Turkish coffee and homemade pastries. Hearty through the eyes lunches are the rule at floating restau- rants, with Serbian ethnic cuisine most of a Gen Y common. Most splavs make at least an attempt Meat­-obsessed Serbia can be a challenge to serve an evening meal in hopes of at- for vegetarians, but amid the vast array of tracting diners who will order another venues specialising in carnivore cuisine, a round of drinks when the meal is done and make an evening of it. Pasta, salads few veg-­friendly eateries have popped up. and other light dishes complement cocktails on menus. always reassure you by pronouncing your order “very good” and nodding his But splavs don’t really come to life un- head purposefully. til the dinner crowd has gone home and settled in front of the television. That’s It’s well worth saving room for dessert. The apple and blackberry crumble and the when nightlife begins. The music gets chocolate truffles are particularly tasty. loud, the lights start to flash, and the liq- uor flows freely. Many splavs keep the Afterwards, you can head out the back party going until dawn. If you’re look- door and upstairs to Jazz Bašta, a quaint jazz bar where a four­piece combo of ing for the heart of Belgrade’s nightlife, Emma KRSTIĆ seasoned performers often puts on this is it. shows and the cocktails come ornately The atmosphere can be exciting I didn’t realise how many of my friends decorated. in a floating nightclub, almost as if are vegetarian until they started com- you’ve wandered onto the set of a ing to Belgrade. Serbians are a largely Radost Fina Kuhinjica (Pariska 3) is an- carnivorous bunch and eating meat other place opening up the vegetarian Hollywood spy or gangster thriller. seems to be a part of the country’s scene to Belgraders. Located in a con- There in the corner, the follow with all verted apartment in an unassuming national identity. Belgrade’s vegetarian the gold jewellery – is that a kingpin scene is still very much in its infancy. building opposite the southern corner of Kalemegdan, this small restaurant in the Russian mafia? That woman As a carnivore myself, I’m not complain- relies on word of mouth, as its unex- at the bar – didn’t we see her music ing; the generous portions of succulent pected location and complete lack of video on television? signage means an ordinary passer-by pork, beef and chicken served up at The reality is almost certainly more kafanas and restaurants across the capi- would never realise a restaurant was tal are astounding. But for vegetarians, housed within. (Hint: follow the street’s mundane, but persistent rumours choices are largely limited to soups and tram tracks downhill and look for a grey say popular splavs are frequented by salads (and even then it’s not always a building with a red front door.) mysterious oligarchs and crowds of guarantee). attractive hangers-on. (Our research Once inside you’re in store for a very So, where to go for a hearty vegetarian pleasant surprise. The setting is quirky, has discovered that these rumours meal in Belgrade? As I’ve discovered, warm and homey, and the menu fea- become much more credible after a tures an international array of dishes, they’re not only few and far between, second or third shot of rakija.) Is that but also hard to find. mostly using flavours from the Middle East and India. Here, it’s not at all about Illustration. Photo: Flickr/Beth really a gangster offering you a drink or Two places seem to be at the forefront highbrow dining; patrons can tuck into a place at his table? Probably not. But it of the veggie scene. Gnezdo Organic vegetarian burgers, Mexican tortillas couldn’t hurt to do the polite thing and (Male stepenice 1a) is one of them. and Ramen soup. (Tip: don’t leave without trying a cupcake.) accept his offer. Hidden away on the second floor of A newer addition to the scene sits Humanitarian project set Belgrade’s what looks like an abandoned building, PLANNING the restaurant’s entrance is through a across the river in New Belgrade. YOUR SPLAV door halfway up a small staircase next Restoran Oliva (Omladinskih brigada to Branko’s Bridge. You’ll know you’re in 86), a contemporary restaurant with ADVENTURE abundant outdoor seating located for big-screen premiere the right building when you step inside and see the walls are decorated with underneath a very modern apartment If you intend to make an evening of building, offers a nice little selection blue and white cartoon figures. splavovi, it’s important not to peak too of vegetarian and pescetarian dishes. floating rite The restaurant is decorated in a Pasta accounts for the majority of the The organizers of the Filip AVRAMOVIĆ al Children with Cancer Day. The goal early. Postpone dinner until 9.30pm or minimalist style, rustic and cosy, with main dishes, and if you like you can opt was to collect as much hair as possible later. That way you can transition seam- exposed brick walls, a lot of wood and for the buckwheat variety. (Note: There humanitarian proj- amara Kojić and Marko Mak to make wigs for children who have lessly from the table to the dancefloor. is also an excruciatingly cool coffee mismatched furniture. Pantelić began A Kilometre lost their hair during cancer treat- Because there are so many splavs, house called Laboratorija Kafe two ect Kilometar Kose The menu is seasonal, full of organic doors down from the restaurant.) of Hair to gather donated ment. you won’t be able to try them all – but ingredients sourced from around the - A Kilometre of Hair hair to serve as material for Donors have included not only peo- you might as well try. Follow the music, country, and it features an impressive Also in New Belgrade is Zdravo Živa T of spring making wigs for children undergoing ple who have donated their own hair, follow the crowds and sample as many offering of vegetarian and vegan dishes. (Belville, Jurija Gagarina 14), which - have made a docu- treatment for cancer. The film “By a but also Serbian salons that have given as you can. As a bonus, just about all of them are I came across while on a shopping Splavs are a must for almost everyone visiting Belgrade. Photo: Facebook gluten-free. This place ticks a lot of mission. It’s a small place specializing mentary about the hair’s Breadth” (Za dlaku) is intended to free haircuts and then sent the hair to If you’re unsure where to start, in- boxes. in quick lunches and takeaway snacks, present the most emotional moments wig-makers. The organisers find chil- quire at a hotel concierge desk or ask but its juices and smoothies make you project. The film will of the project to the public and to wid- dren in need with the help of the Na- night clubs, bars, kafanas and restau- dice. Adapted from the English word A SPLAV a cab driver for a recommendation. The rolled zucchini with goat cheese feel like you’ve just consumed pure th en awareness of childhood cancer. tional Association of Parents of Cancer- When the snow rants along the banks of the Danube ‘weekend’, the word refers to a week- FOR EVERY Everyone in Belgrade has a favourite and pumpkin risotto is a definite health. Its sweets will thrill anyone on premiere on April 19 winner, and there are also a couple of the raw-food bandwagon. The premiere will start at 8pm. To re- Suffering Children. and Sava rivers. end or vacation getaway. TASTE splav, and everyone is prepared to interesting surprises among the mains in Belgrade’s Dom serve a seat, send an SMS to 3100. You’ll The organiser’s Facebook group has melts and the All over the country, Serbians await Buying a second home can be an ex- share an opinion. Don’t be surprised Each of these restaurants offers a catering to those who are dining with be charged 100 dinars – a bit less than gathered about 27,000 Likes. warm weather and the opening of pensive proposition, and a long drive The first splavs appeared on the Sava if no two recommendations match, meat­eaters, including chicken with unique dining experience that even Omladine. warm weather hazelnuts and grilled apples. No matter many locals won’t have discovered. €1 – and you’ll be guaranteed a spot at Statisticians say about one child per Belgrade’s splavovi. One by one, splav to the mountainside can be wearying. River where the river passed through however. Visiting a variety of splavs what you choose - even if you’re just They’re well worth a visit, even if you’re the screening. day contracts cancer in Serbia. Every owners make judgments about the sea- Creative Belgrade residents solved the city centre. A second colony of and picking your own favourite is asking for tap water – the waiter will not a committed vegetarian. A Kilometre of Hair was launched year, 300 to 350 Serbian children die of comes, it can son and the weather, and one by one these problems by investing in floating nightspots appeared along the shores part of the fun. on February 15th, 2015, on Internation- cancer. they replenish their stocks, clear the summer cottages – houseboats that of the Danube in Zemun. You’ll find splavs catering to every mean only one decks of winter’s grime and turn on the provided a taste of river living within Today, splavs can be found along musical taste and budget. If the mu- thing: splav sea- lights. Splav season has begun. the city limits. both the Sava and the Danube riv- sic is too loud and the smoke gets too ORDER DELIVERY TO The early houseboats were primitive ers all through Belgrade. Those who thick indoors, take a walk on the deck. YOUR DOOR THE BIRTH OF but popular. Owners gradually dressed crave the full Belgrade experience can You’re likely to glimpse another intrigu- son has begun on them up with full kitchens, electric find strings of splavs at the Brodarska ing splav just a few moorings down. Go Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 A REPUTATION [email protected] Belgrade’s plea- lights and all the comforts of home. In neighbourhood downtown, in Zemun, ahead, wander down and give it a try. Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ Guidebooks make much of Bel- 1977 the Belgrade Association of Sava behind the Hotel Yugoslavia, near the As the hour gets late you’ll find taxis page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight grade’s world-renowned nightlife. Dur- Splav Owners was formed to adjudi- Ušće shopping mall, near Blok 70 in lined up to return you to your home or sure boats. ing the spring and summer tourist sea- cate disputes and set policy for splav Novi Beograd and at Ada Ciganlija. hotel. son, that nightlife shifts from the streets owners. An association was necessary: Wherever the Danube or Sava meets Don’t miss your chance to explore J.D. HILDEBRAND to the shores of its two great rivers. a 1983 census revealed 664 splavs on land, you’ll find barges moored and this unique feature of Belgrade culture. SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL Visitors might justifiably wonder why the Sava River. ready for business. It’s spring – splav time! Address: Višnjićeva 10 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE he calendar doesn’t get the riverbanks are crowded with restau- By that time, some of the splavs were Address: Smetanina 12 the last word in Tokyo. rants and nightclubs. Why not hair sa- devoted to commercial use. For exam- MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FAOUNDATION Spring begins when the lons or banks or gift shops? Why, among ple, the Kiasa Chess Club maintained a Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD streets fill with cherry all the world’s cities, has Belgrade be- houseboat where members could play ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE blossoms, no matter the come famous for floating night spots? matches and enjoy a coffee or a glass of ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” date. The Dutch halt in The answer is shrouded in tradition beer. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA FORCED2THINK Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 RESTURANT KOVAČ Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: Požeška 42 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Ttheir wooden shoes and note the emer- and history. The former Yugoslavia embraced modern ethno restaurant Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 gence of tulips from their underground Like many eastern European na- Western-style capitalism in the 1990s, HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV INTERGALACTIC DINNER beds. Tennyson wrote that spring is tions, Yugoslavia participated in the va- and the splavs were no exception. En- Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 CAFE CAFFELOUNGE when a young man’s fancy turns to cation tradition of leaving town in the trepreneurs purchased the houseboats Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Vase Pelagića 48 thoughts of love, and maybe that’s how warm weather for a taste of country liv- and decked them out as clubs, restau- CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Mihajla Pupina 85A things worked in 19th century London. ing. City residents bought or rented lit- rants, bars and kafanas. The splavs were Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE But in Belgrade, springtime means just tle cottages in the mountains or woods an immediate hit among residents and Address: Skadarska 34 MIXER HOUSE Address: Temišvarska 19 one thing: splav season! and retreated from the hurly-burly of tourists alike, and soon became a Bel- KOLARAC Address: Karađorđeva 46 Splav is Serbian for raft or barge. But urban life. In Russia, the vacation cot- grade institution. The city’s reputation Address: Kolarčeva 7 Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT KNJIŽARA APROPO in Belgrade the word has acquired a tage is called a dacha. In the Balkans, for an exciting nightlife was cemented Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Address: Cara Lazara 10 special meaning. It refers to the floating the summer house was called a viken- with the rise of floating nightclubs. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 Belgrade runners gather for traditional marathon The 29th annual Belgrade Serbia’s small Marathon will take place on April 16th at 10am. If this year is like prior years, the race will cause significant traffic disruptions across the city. The city centre in brief Belgrade trumpet princess and Novi Beograd streets will be closed from 9am to 4pm, while public transportation will not be restored to normal operation until wins hearts approximately 6pm. The marathon starts at the corner of Bulevar sical community. “Guča is where we Kralja Aleksandra and Resavska Being a lady and emerged,” Veselinović says. Street and proceeds along these Danijela competed at Guča from points: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, playing a trumpet 2003 until 2014. The band won a prize Branka Krsmanovića, Žička, at its very first appearance. Veselinović Kralja Nikolaja II, Mekenzijeva, Trg is uncommon, remembers receiving the trophy from Slavija, Nemanjina, Balkanska, Boban Marković, a Roma trumpet play- Gavrila Principa, Brankov says Danijela er who is deemed the greatest trum- Bridge, Bulevar Nikole Tesle, 22 peter ever to emerge from the Balkans. Oktobra, Aleksandra Dubčeka, Veselinović, the “You are a small trumpet princess,” he Bulevar Mihaila Pupina, Bulevar told her. Umetnosti, Bulevar Zorana first and only Since that year, the band has won Đinđića, Bulevar Umetnosti, five additional awards at Guča competi- Milutina Milankovića, Milentija female leader of tions. Popovića, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina, Organizers say that since 1961, when Brankov Most, Brankova, Zeleni a Serbian brass the first brass fest took place in Guča, Venac, Kraljice Natalije (Narodnog there has never been another female fronta), Kneza Miloša, Kralja band. band leader. Veselinović is especially Milana and Terazije. The finish line proud of her place in the musical his- is Hotel Moscow. tory of Serbia.

Tašmajdan Ivana NIKOLIĆ NO TRUMPETS, stadium reopens with NO FUN Rock at Taš anijela Veselinović was only eight years Playing the trumpet has not always After five years of reconstruction, old when she first been Veselinović’s only passion. She Tašmajdan stadium will reopen took a trumpet in her is also an accomplished archer. She on April 22nd with Rock at Taš, a hands. She formed her trained with bow and arrows for a The future of RTB Bor, the biggest employer in eastern Serbia, seems far from certain. Photo: Beta concert featuring Serbia’s most first band a year later. long time and was quite successful, famous rock bands: Riblja She’sD kept a tight grip on the instrument she says, but things changed when Čorba, Galija, Van Gog, Piloti ever since. Now 22, Veselinović is an she started her musical studies in and Električni orgazam with the accomplished professional musician Novi Sad. “I had to devote more time Čarolija choir. Tickets cost 100 who is finishing her musical studies at to trumpet, so archery is now only a dinars [less than one euro], and proceeds will benefit the Shelter the Novi Sad Arts Academy. hobby,” she says. for Street Children in Belgrade. “I started playing trumpet out of curi- Some students leave Serbia to pur- Hazy future for Sport Centre Tašmajdan director osity,” Veselinović remembers. “My fa- sue musical careers after graduating, Milan Novović pledges to maintain ther, Mile, bought a trumpet so he could but Veselinović says she may stay. Her the stadium's proud heritage once play it. My brothers and I appropriated first priority is to finish her studies at it reopens. it as a toy.” the Arts Academy. “And then we will Only a year later, in February 2003, see,” she says. the young girl, her brothers, and a few Besides, she adds, there are many Serbia's copper Belgrade to host 2020 Veselinović first took up the trumpet at the age of eight. Photo: Courtesy of Danijela Veselinović European Universiade relatives formed a band in their home concerts yet to be played, both as part town of Arilje in western Serbia. The chestra. tions throughout the country, but the of her studies in Novi Sad and with her Serbia’s capital will host the band consisted of six musicians: five “At first, people are surprised to see centre of the trumpet universe is the band. European Universities Games in boys and a girl, aged six to 10. The band me on the stage,” Veselinović says, “be- Guča Trumpet Festival, held each Au- But it is not just at concerts and was called Danijela. “I was the only girl, cause in Serbia it is not common that gust in a small western Serbia town, festivals that Veselinović and her giant 2020, the European University Sports Association recently so the orchestra was named after me,” girls play this instrument. But then they around 160 km from Belgrade. The six colleagues perform. She says announced in Wroclaw, Poland. Veselinović says. accept it with huge support.” Guča festival gathers music lovers from they have often “adorned various Belgrade mayor Siniša Mali told the Over the years, the unorthodox band The band has participated at brass all over the world. The main attraction celebrations,” providing musical ac- nterviewed by Serbian public Fiscal Council estimates that the mini- Ljubiša Miljković, president of the min- $4,500 per ton is not a historically low to write off RTB Bor’s debts at the expense media this is a great recognition has attracted more than a little media festivals not only in Serbia, but in Po- is the brass band competition, in which companiment to weddings, funerals, broadcaster RTS on April 2nd, mum cost of the companies' operations ers' trade union, says the smelter, whose price. The price of $9,000 dollars per ton of citizens. We should also respect what for Belgrade and its sportsmen. attention. Most recently, Serbia’s Vice land, Switzerland, Spain and Greece. In the best ensembles battle it out for the birthdays, anniversaries and other economy minister Željko Sertić will be approximately 13 billion dinars construction the government supported set a historical precedent, the Council re- we agreed with the EU when it comes to “Belgrade continues being a city of made a film about the orchestra. “Dis- addition to the traditional Roma music coveted Golden Trumpet award. events. “Everyone in Serbia knows asserted that RTB Bor will contin- [€106 million] in 2016, while continuing financially, has a lower utilization rate ported, and the current price is relatively state assistance to companies,” he said, sports and youth. We are already anje” (Breathing) brought them to the played by other Serbian bands, Dani- During the seven-day festival, all you there is no fun without trumpets,” ue to operate after the end of May assistance will add 27 billion dinars [€220 than planned, while lower-quality im- common in the long-term interval: “Even adding that the company, if reorganized, famous in Europe as good hosts of attention of a much wider audience. jela plays brass versions of Serbian and can hear in Guča is the sound of trum- she says. “We keep busy playing at with certain changes in techno- million] in 2017. ported concentrate does not comply with with the historical highest price of cop- could still interest potential strategic part- big sport events and I am sure we foreign popular music. pet bands. That’s not just hyperbole. private events.” Ilogical processes and with reduced costs These companies employ about smelter technology, increasing the cost of per, RTB Bor was unsuccessful as its debt ners. will confirm that on this occasion,” PIONEERING A “Foreigners adore music from the Last year, festival organisers pledged Keep that in mind. Your next party in the procurement of materials. 18,500 workers, however, in some of Ser- production. exceeded €1 billion. This was, as it is now, Meanwhile, RTB Bor management an- he said. “This is also a great PLACE FOR WOMEN Balkans,” Veselinović says. to fine any shop or restaurant caught could become a more festive and tradi- The government has not, despite these bia's most underdeveloped areas. It is not "RTB Bor is now a social institution a huge burden for the state and for public nounced its intentions to reduce the la- opportunity for the development playing other kinds of music 300,000 tional event with the addition of a trum- assurances, disclosed a detailed plan to easy for the government to let the compa- protected by the state, which must be re- companies, as the money loaned from bour force by 800 to 900 workers, with of tourism, given that our guests It was rare to see a girl playing trum- ROYALTY IN THE dinars (around €2,500). pet band – maybe even Danijela. keep RTB Bor operating. Any plan is al- nies go down the drain despite the costs. organized in order to become profitable,” Development Fund were never returned, 250 more to be sent on paid leave. will be 6,000 students from all pet when Veselinović and her broth- TRUMPET KINGDOM Guča has always been something If you haven’t heard a Serbian trum- most certain to include increased operat- RTB Bor general manager Blagoje Spask- Miljković says, asserting that the compa- while the company had not been paying Vladimir Vučković welcomes manage- over Europe.” Belgrade bested ers formed Danijela. It’s still rare today. special for the young band. It’s where pet band, head to Guča – or a kafana ing costs, the experts warned. ovski admitted in a NIN Weekly interview ny’s current head, Spaskovski, is the big- taxes, bills for electricity, fuels, railroads, ment’s intentions but remains sceptical the Finnish city of Tampere to be Veselinović is the only woman in Ser- Serbian brass bands perform at wed- they first came to prominence and at- in the bohemian quarter in Belgrade’s on March 31st that the company would not gest obstacle for achieving profitability for years,” said Vladimir Vučković mem- regarding the implementation of such named host city for the event. bia’s musical history to lead a brass or- dings, funerals and holiday celebra- tracted the attention of Serbia’s mu- Skadarlija – and check it out! HOLDING be able to repay its €1 billion of debt with- and finding strategic partners. ber of the fiscal council. plans and their effects. FOR THE STATE out state assistance. “The debt of RTB Bor In previous years, several companies Vučković believes the government He notes that neglecting structural could not be solved without adopting the were interested in acquiring or investing has no intention of resolving the issue of reforms, especially reforms of pub- The legally mandated privatisation for pre-prepared plan of reorganization, which in RTB Bor, including the Chinese firm Li the two most problematic companies in lic and state-owned enterprises, has 17 strategically important companies was would include conversion of debts to the Ten and the Goldman Sachs investment privatization – RTB Bor and Resavica, the thwarted all previous attempts to re- prolonged several times, latest until May state into capital and repaying of commer- fund. underground coal mining company. store Serbia’s public finances to a sus- his football player But Milutinović is remembered primar- 2016. cial debts within the next seven years, with Miljković believes that with 100 years “Enterprises that brought higher costs tainable path. depicted in Maršala ily for his contributions to Partizan – he Birjuzova Street in down- played 213 matches and scored 231 goals In January 2015 the government in- [a] one year grace-period," he said. of copper reserves the company has a for the budget and which employ the larg- The same thing, he points out, could town Belgrade is Miloš for that club. He also won national cups in cluded RTB Bor in a group of 17 strategi- The biggest creditors of RTB Bor are future, but insists that without investing est number of workers remain in state happen with the ongoing program of fis- Milutinović, who is widely 1954 and 1957. cally important companies that would be state-owned banks in bankruptcy and in mining work, RTB Bor can’t achieve ownership, including RTB Bor, Resavica, cal consolidation if necessary reforms are regarded one of the most Milutinović also played on the Yugoslav eligible for a year's delay in legally man- the pension fund. Commercial loans sustainability. The company has invested Petrohemija, Galenika, Simpo and Azota- not accelerated: “By now, new unplanned talentedT players in Yugoslavia’s history national team. dated privatisation. The initial group of amount to €120 million. exclusively in metallurgy for the past two ra,” he says. “If their status is not resolved costs related to state-owned enterprises and one of the most talented offensive This mural was prepared by Group 17 companies was reduced to 11 after five It is not only historical debts that are decades, he says. by the end of May, it means that the most are almost certain. This includes the re- wingers of all time. JNA, an association of Partizan football enterprises lost government protection burdening RTB Bor, but also recent ones painful reforms are delayed again and payment of the guaranteed debt of RTB Born in 1933, Milutinović played all across club supporters. The organisation has and one implemented an approved reor- caused by net losses in recent years. UNPLANNED COSTS LOOMING that the high cost of non-privatized com- Bor, which will likely fall on the budget, the former Yugoslavia – but also internation- commissioned murals of several de- ganization plan. While management emphasizes in- panies will continue to be burden for the which is around 10 billion dinars [€81 ally, including stints in French and German ceased figures importance to their club, According to the Fiscal Council, an in- vestments in the new smelter and Ve- The Fiscal Council pointed out that state and society.” million] or 0.25% of GDP in the next three clubs. In addition to playing football, he also including football player Dragan Mance dependent body charged with assessing liki Krvelj plotation associated flotation causes for RTB Bor’s troubles have deep Milan Kovačević, an economist, notes years. We must also have in mind that spent years managing clubs – starting with and Dušan Duško Radović, Belgrade’s government economic policies, sustain- devices, critics insist there are serious roots that can’t be explained solely by that RTB Bor suffers from the same flaws the guaranteed debt of RTB Bor is not the Belgrade’s Partizan in 1991 and moving later famous publicist, journalist, poet and

Hidden Belgrade ing the strategic companies while delay- shortcomings in managing the company, shifts in copper’s market price. as many other state companies, including only possible fiscal cost, because the total aphorist. to Turkey and Mexico. ing privatization has an economic cost of including the technological solutions that The Council’s study on March 2nd con- lack of transparency, surplus workforce liabilities of the company amounted to about €2 billion. are being implemented. firmed that the current price of about and mismanagement. “It makes no sense about 1 billion euros.” 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT Continued from page 1 Making the most of spring break

– hence the name. After the liberation Why stay at of Belgrade, Serbian rulers started ren- ovating the area around the Topčider home? These River, and that is when the park as we know it was created. Tourist Office of The park was once home to vine- yards, but was transformed into a Belgrade recom- forest resort in the early 19th century. Gardeners from the Czech Republic mendations are planted the first trees and created the first flower gardens there. nearby and af- Inside the park are a church, an ob- elisk and a military guard home that is fordable. now a restaurant suitable for all sorts of events. Filip AVRAMOVIĆ KOŠUTNJAK rthodox Easter and the International Košutnjak is a forest oasis nestled Konak Kneza Miloša. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/sonjabgd An Italian soldier on the hills over Sarajevo in 1996. Photo: NATO Worker’s Day both within the city limits. fall on May 1 this This forest park stretches over 300 year, increasing the hectares and is located in municipali- odds that hard work- ties Čukarica and Rakovica, a 40-min- Oers in Belgrade will enjoy a few days of ute bus ride from the city center. time off. The forest of deciduous and conifer- Italian soldiers keep dying Tourists from Europe and around ous trees is intersected by numerous the world are flocking to Belgrade to paths and camp spots. enjoy its history and night life, but Bel- Until 1903, the forest was a closed grade residents crave a break from the hunting ground that was enjoyed only capital’s hustle and bustle. by the upper classes. But it has since from ‘Balkan Syndrome’ Belgrade Insight asked the public- been turned into open space, free for service Tourist Organization of Bel- all to enjoy. grade to recommend overlooked Inside the forest-park there are sev- spots to spend a few days with family eral complexes people can visit. he first victim, Corporal reported, Leggiero said they were oper- soldiers and their likely exposure to Some Italians say this is no surprise. So far, according to the Osservatorio and friends without traveling a long First is Pionirski grad, is a sports and Salvatore Vacca, was ating without special training or special D-38 in former Yugoslavia. “In Italy we create commissions of in- Militare, judges have recognised the distance or breaking the bank. recreational center. Then there is Mov- only 23 and had served equipment. On April 6th, the Italian Minister of quiry when we don’t want to discover right to compensation for former sol- TOB came up with a short list of ie City, where you can see studios and in Bosnia in 1998 and "While soldiers from other countries Defence, Roberta Pinotti, told the me- the truth,” Leggiero commented sarcas- diers in 43 cases. destinations that allow vacationers to equipment that were used for shoot- 1999. He died of leu- had information about the risks they dia that “as far as our Ministry is con- tically. However, in May 2015, in a case con- escape Belgrade’s concrete jungle and ing Serbian films. kaemia months after had to face and took adequate protec- cerned… there is not a problem with Nicole Corritore, who works at the cerning a soldier who had died after enjoy a bit of nature as it blooms with Košutnjak is also home to the returningT home, the Rome-based news- tion, Italian soldiers were in the dark,” depleted uranium. Osservatorio Balcani e Caucaso, [the having served in Kosovo the Appeal life and beauty this spring. Košutnjak Sports and Recreational paper La Repubblica wrote. Leggiero said. “We have had several scientific com- Balkan and Caucasus Observatory] and Court in Rome ruled that there is “an TOB’s Vesna Nađ says savvy travel- Centre, which features football fields, Depleted uranium, D-38, is a by-prod- missions that have always denied the has followed the issue of depleted ura- undisputed connection between the ers avoid well-known destinations indoor and outdoor swimming pools, uct obtained from the process used to EVERYTHING WAS ‘OK’ existence of a connection between cas- nium since its beginning, argues that ad- exposition to depleted uranium and like Kopaonik and Lake Palić on holi- and even year-round ski slopes. enrich natural uranium for use as fuel es of people who are sick and the use mitting reality would have serious con- cancer”. days. Those popular sites can be so Košutnjak hosts many athletic com- in nuclear reactors. Over the years, Italian soldiers who of weapons [with depleted uranium],” sequences for the Italian authorities. Angelo Fiore Tartaglia, a lawyer who crowded it’s hard to find a good spot petitions during the winter and the Its huge density makes it the perfect were deployed in Kosovo and Bosnia Pinotti added. “Demonstrating the connection be- has assisted several victims against for camping, she says. summer season, so there are a plenty material for producing “tank armour confirmed they had no protection or But activists and representatives of tween the use of depleted uranium the Ministry of Defence, said the rul- "There are a lot of small, not-so-fa- of activities to suit everyone’s tastes. and bullets... to penetrate enemy ar- awareness of the danger they were in. the victims claim the Italian govern- and the deaths of hundreds of Italian ing could represent a turning point for mous places where people can go to moured vehicles”, the US Department “We used to see the American sol- ment was well aware of the risks and soldiers would also mean talking about thousands of Italians who claim to have camp for a few days and enjoy nature,“ KOSMAJ of Veterans Affairs wrote on its website diers, and we wondered why they were failed to protect its soldiers. the effect of depleted uranium on the been damaged by depleted uranium. Nađ told BIRN. The use of D-38 in making weapons going around dressed like astronauts... BIRN asked the Italian Ministry of De- civil population of former Yugoslavia,” “This verdict... will finally put an end Some of the places she recom- Located a 50 minute car ride from represents a serious hazard for human they had equipment to handle those fence to comment on the claims but got Corritore told BIRN. to the attempt [by the government] to mends are hidden inside the city, Belgrade in central Serbia is Kosmaj beings, however. materials that we didn't have,” Gianluca no reply. “It would also mean recognising that hide the truth,” Tartaglia said after the while others are just a short drive from Mountain. “It can expose people to radiation Danise, a former Italian pilot, told the Ve- “The Italian government has dem- weapons using D-38, which are current- verdict. Serbia’s capital. Kosmaj is one of the smallest moun- both from the outside and from the in- rona-based newspaper L'Arena before onstrated an amateurish attitude,” said ly used by the Italian army… in Sardinia, At the end of 2015, the Italian parlia- tains in Serbia and it is considered side if it enters the body by inhalation dying of a cancer in December 2015. Alessandro Marescotti, president of have inflicted damage on the local pop- ment also voted to establish of a new TOPČIDER to be a “wind spa”, since there is a so- Kosmaj. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Boleyn or ingestion ... increasing the risk of can- “We used to work with our bare Peacelink, one of the first Italian associ- ulation,” Corritore said. commission of inquiry. called “wind rose” there. cer,” the UN Environment Programme hands... without masks, in territories ations to denounce the effects of deplet- The Italian government in 2008 set But once again, as its chairman Gior- Nađ’s first pick is a favorite spot for Wind roses are intersections of The mountain also has a hunting re- thing Belgrade has to offer and probably founded, is the best way to get to know mission, which operated in Bosnia and which had been hugely polluted by ed uranium during the war in Yugosla- up a fund of €30 million to provide fi- gio Scanu [from the ruling Democratic Belgraders in the know. strong winds that are thought to have sort, since wild game is abundant. discover something you did not know one of the oldest cities in Europe. Kosovo after the end of the wars there, depleted uranium ... when we asked via and to campaign to force the Italian nancial compensation to soldiers who Party] told the Rome-based newspa- Topčider resembles a forest. There healing effects, mostly with muscle It costs just 700 dinars [about €6] to about the city. At the place where many nations and said. our superiors [why US soldiers were so government to admit responsibility. developed cancer as a consequence of per L'Espresso, the goal would not be is a lot of vegetation and even a river problems. spend a night there, so the price does Sightseeing by bus starts at the empires have clashed, where different The US Army started using D-38 on much better equipped] they answered: “The Italian authorities have never dealing with ammunitions made with to prove a connection between expo- passing through it, with modern and During the Roman era, the moun- not pose a great problem for those eager square of Nikola Pašić where you can cultures met, guides aboard the ships a large scale during the first Gulf War. don't worry, they are Americans, they admitted officially the existence of this depleted uranium. sure to D-38 and cancer, but “to protect traditional restaurants overlooking a tain was one of the main places for to experience spring in the Serbian wil- catch a double-decker tour bus with Trajan and Stevanske Livade tell fas- NATO has also acknowledged that exaggerate... everything is OK,” Enrico problem… they accused us of raising But, Corritore noted, most of the our soldiers… by making it possible for big park. extracting iron in the Balkans. Today, derness. an open second floor. Professional cinating stories about the old fortress shells containing depleted uranium Maria Laccetti, a worker from the Red alarmism and insisted on minimising funds have not been used so far. them to obtain compensation without The park is located outside the city it boasts numerous hotel complexes, guides lead the way and ensure you do Kalemegdan, Nebojša Tower, Big War were used both in Kosovo and Bosnia . Cross who developed lung cancer af- the issue,” Marescotti told BIRN. With the Italian government still need to prove the existence of this con- center at the intersection of Boulevard ethno villages, and rich nature and EXPLORING THE CITY not miss a thing while riding around Island, Cathedral Church of St. Michael Around 31,000 such shells were fired ter 10 years spent in different missions The Italian government has in fact refusing to recognise that its soldiers nection. Patrijarha Pavla and the street of Teo- wildlife. the city. the Archangel, Belgrade Fair, the New in Kosovo and 11,000 in Bosnia. across former Yugoslavia, told the Ital- created six commissions to examine died from depleted uranium, the right "We care about this issue... and we are dor Drajzer. The steeper side of the mountain Unable to leave Belgrade? No prob- Besides the bus ride, you can go for a Ada Bridge and many other sights. Although Italian soldiers in Kosovo ian media in 2014. the problem. However, all of them re- to compensation is still disputed and in fully aware of the seriousness of this sit- It takes around 40 minutes to get features forests, while the less-steep lem! TOB organizes a wide variety of ship cruise and explore Belgrade from a Before embarking on one of these were deployed in the sector of Kosovo During the past 15 years, the Italian jected a connection between the ex- the hands of Italian judges, who decide uation. We would like our commission their by city bus. sides are covered in blankets of grass. sightseeing options. You can participate sailor’s point of view. Cruising the Dan- tours, be sure to call the Tourism Organ- which NATO had bombed most heavi- authorities have repeatedly denied a position to D-38 and cases of cancer on individual cases of veterans suing to be the last one in a series that so far The park was once used by the Ot- At the bottom of the mountain are in the walking tour or explore the city ube and Sava, the rivers whose meet- ization of Belgrade (+381 11 36 25 060) ly, the World Health Organization, WHO, connection between the deaths of the among Italian veterans. the Ministry of Defence. has been too long,” Scanu said. tomans as a storage depot for cannons vineyards and fruit gardens. by bus, tram or ship. You’ll see every- ing marks the spot where Belgrade was and ask for additional information. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 11 ARTS HEALTH AND FAMILY

A special Opera, Ballet exhibition for photobook lovers and Classical Days of Belgrade FRIDAY APRIL 15th “What's This Book” is an exhibi- Nipple tattooing slow tion of photobooks being held Ivan Jarić, cello, Guarnerius, Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm at the Kulturforum gallery April Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra with th th Arts in brief 15 -29 . More than 20 artists Daniel Reiskin - conductor, and Martin celebrates city’s Frost – cello, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, from all over the world will be presenting, and the exhibition Studentski Trg 5, 8pm to catch on in Serbia will include some of the best SATURDAY APRIL 16th and most relevant photobooks created over the last two years. rich history Opera: Nabucco, The National Theatre, The exhibition is curated by Francuska 1, 7:30pm Natasha Christia, an independ- SUNDAY APRIL 17th ent writer, curator and educator Ballet: Copellia, The National Theatre, from Barcelona. Francuska 1, 12pm Cellist Ivan Jarić MONDAY APRIL 18th at Guarnerius Maja Rajković – piano, Denis Krasnokutski – viola, Students Cultural One of Serbia's most talented Centre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm young cellists, Ivan Jarić, will th perform April 15th at the TUESDAY APRIL 19 Guarnerius Hall. The repertoire Ballet: Queen Margot, The National will include famed pieces by Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm composers such as Schumann, WEDNESDAY APRIL 20th Beethoven and Prokofiev. He will be accompanied on piano Rastko Popović – viola, Marijana Savov by Dejana Kravarušić-Bajić. Stojanović – piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm Opera: Tosca, The National Theatre, Film Archive Francuska 1, 7:30pm celebrating science fiction this month THURSDAY APRIL 21st Ballet: Giselle, The National Theatre, The Yugoslav Film Archive will Francuska 1, 7:30pm celebrate science fiction this Divna Ljubojević, Sava Centre, Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm month by showing some of the genre's greatest films during its FRIDAY APRIL 22nd “Back to the Movie Theatre” se- th st Ballet: Who’s That Singing Over There, ries April 15 -21 . Expect to see The National Theatre, Francuska 1, classics like “The Iron Giant”, 7:30pm “Spaceballs”, and “Back to Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra with the Future”. Visit the Archive's Vladimir Kulenović – conductor and Barry Douglas – piano, Ilija M. Kolarac official site for a full programme Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm list. http://www.kinoteka.org.rs SATURDAY APRIL 23rd

Knight Fest Vuk Božilović – piano, Guarnerius, at the fortress Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm

th Organized by the Royal Order SUNDAY APRIL 24 of Knights and the Belgrade Opera: The Cloak/Sister Angelica, The fortress, the Knight Fest is a National Theatre, Francuska 1, 12pm unique experience during which MONDAY APRIL 25th visitors will learn about the very rich medieval traditions Milan Popović - harpsichord, Belgrade of Serbia by way of theatrical Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm Katarina Đorđević – baroque violin and Grbić pledges to continue tattooing nipples free of charge. Photo: BIRN productions and knight-related Sofija Perović – harpsichord, Belgrade sporting events. The festival Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm will be held at the Kalemegdan have undergone treatment. She says Serbia. One in eight Serbian women will for free for their patients. But I got no re- rd th TUESDAY APRIL 26th fortress April 23 -24 . Cosmetic nipple tattooing is women are aware of reconstructive be diagnosed with breast cancer during sponse,” Grbić says. Marko Pantelić – baritone and Đorđe nipple tattooing but that the procedure their lifetimes. While these institutions have not Supernatural Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali at the press conference. Photo: Beta Nešić – piano, Belgrade City Hall, becoming a common treatment for is “not as commercially exploited as According to the Belgrade-based Insti- embraced tattooing, it is possible that Dragoslava Jovanovića 2, 8pm Festival celebrate 10 abroad.“ tute of Public Health of Serbia “Dr Milan their patients have undergone a more years with picnic to the city from the Turks, finally and Mali says the festival is meant to cel- WEDNESDAY APRIL 27th mastectomy patients elsewhere, “None of the women in our associa- Jovanović Batut”, about 4,100 women invasive form of nipple reconstruc- One of the oldest officially restoring Belgrade’s status as ebrate Belgrade and share the city’s tion have had the tattoo. That is very are diagnosed with some form of malig- tion: skin transplantation, either from Every spring, Belgrade’s Super- Marko Trivunović – accordion, Ilija M. a Serbian city. beauty with as many people as pos- but Serbian breast-cancer survivors intimate and it is up to each and every nant breast cancer in Serbia each year. the other nipple or from another part natural Festival raises aware- Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, local festivals, the Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali has an- sible. Opening up the city’s cultural 6pm woman to make such a decision,“ she About 1,600 die of it. of the body. ness about environmental and Opera: A Masked Ball, The National nounced that most of the events are institutions and allowing the public to are reluctant to undergo an told BIRN. Due to these alarming statistics, Ser- Tattooing is also possible at some of ecological issues. For this year’s Days of Belgrade, Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm tenth annual fest, organisers going to be held in the busiest parts of explore them is one of the festival’s cen- RTS Symphonic Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac bia’s Health Ministry launched a na- the private clinics and is done by doctors the city – such as the always bustling tral themes. Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm additional procedure. ‘I WILL tional programme for early detection themselves. are putting a different spin on will shine brighter the programme, referring to it Knez Mihailova pedestrian zone and In support of that goal, organisers THURSDAY APRIL 28th FEEL BETTER’ of breast cancer and established the Whichever form of reconstruction a as a picnic. Whatever you call than ever this the Kalemegdan fortress – so that as are distributing cultural artefacts and National Cancer Screening Office in woman chooses, she must wait six to 12 many locals and visitors get to be a resources around festival locations. Ballet: Don Quixote, The National Ivana NIKOLIĆ But while therapeutic nipple tattooing “Jane” is a 40-year-old artist who 2012. The office performs breast-cancer months after surgery. it, the festival will include great Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm musical events like every year. year, with more part of the celebration as possible. For example, if you visit the parliament is a growing trend in Europe and North agreed to speak to BIRN under condi- screening throughout Serbia at no cost. Grbić says that getting nipples back is It will be held April 23rd-24th at “It’s has become a true Belgrade holi- building, you will encounter an exhibit painter by education America, it is far from common in Ser- tion of anonymity. She has only recently According to the office’s data, in the of extreme importance for every woman Hajduk's fountain in the woodsy than 40 events day, a perfect way to promote the city called “Our Treasures,” open from April and a permanent bia. Grbić says that in two years she has decided to have her nipples tattooed. first cycle a total of 78,600 women who has gone through a breast-cancer area of Košutnjak. and develop its tourism offerings,“ he 16th-20th, comprising some of the most Exhibitions make-up artist by tattooed only five women – all acquaint- After undergoing an eight course of were examined, 290 of whom were di- nightmare. Patients tell her that nipples planned over the says. valuable works of art from Belgrade’s and Events profession, Belgrade’s ances of friends. In true Serbian tradi- treatment that has included a double agnosed with the disease. During the help them feel womanly again. They City manager Goran Vesić, who museums – some of which are not put Sanja Grbić has of- tion, her practice is growing slowly by mastectomy, a series of chemotherapies second cycle, in 2015, another 40,700 have a lot more self-confidence and they Clarinet virtuoso to FRIDAY APRIL 15th perform in Belgrade course of four serves as president of the festival’s or- on display often. One of the pieces to fered expert nipple word of mouth. “I still haven’t had some- and plastic surgery, she will be ready for women were scanned, with another 201 are not afraid of looking at their reflec- th th ganizational council, notes that the be displayed is the first book to ever 15 Resonate Conference, various Atattooing to breast-cancer survivors one who has heard of me in some other nipple tattoos in autumn. being diagnosed with a breast cancer. tions in the mirror. locations, from 10am Martin Frost, one of the world's Children’s Belgrade Spring Music Festi- be printed in Belgrade. It dates back to for the past two years. Sympathetic to way, ” she says. “It was not hard to make such a deci- The free programme is still on-going. Working with breast-cancer survivors days – April 16 - 1st Belgrade Photo Month: What’s This most acclaimed clarinet solo- th val is going to be part of the festival once 1522. Book, exhibition, Kulturforum, Mihizova the problems of women who undergo Grbić believes women in Serbia are sion,” she told BIRN. No one collects statistics regarding is very different from Grbić’s main job, ists, will play with the Belgrade 19 . again this year after a 20-year hiatus. A “History of Seafaring” exhibition 11, 7pm mastectomies, Grbić is one of a handful unwilling to have nipple images tat- “I think nipple tattooing is a great the number of women who have re- permanent make-up. While women who Exhibition: Four elements – Days of Philharmonic Orchestra on Organisers say 18 concerts will be organized by the Museum of Science of Serbian artisans trained to create ar- tooed in place because they are reluc- thing because women can feel better – I ceived mastectomies as part of their opt for permanent make-up can be de- th European Applied Arts in Belgrade, April 15 . Fröst will perform David GALIĆ played in the Knez Mihailova street and Technology will be held outdoors Belgrade City Museum, Resavska 40, 7pm tificial nipples with tattoo ink - and pos- tant to undergo another procedure as will feel better – when they look into the cancer treatment, nor the number who manding, cancer survivors are a lot easier Carl Nielsen’s Concerto for pedestrian zone on the first day of the on the Sava River quay. Concerts will be sibly the only one doing it for free. part of the grueling breast-cancer or- mirror,” Jane says. have subsequently undergone breast re- to work with. SATURDAY APRIL 16th Clarinet and Orchestra as well he festival’s dates are festival alone. held by the river every night as well – all It all started during her university deal. Also, she says, they are sceptical This breast-cancer survivor believes construction – including nipples. “I have done all sorts of cosmetics as works by Igor Stravinsky symbolic, commemo- The festival also includes a matinee featuring Belgrade natives singing tra- Exhibition: Italy, The Land of studies, Grbić says, when a friend dated because the procedure is rare and there cosmetic nipple reconstruction is im- things to women – but none of them are and contemporary Latvian rating not one, but two programme during which some of Bel- ditional songs that have captured the Literature, book exhibition, Studentski a woman who had undergone a mastec- are not many tattoo artists in Serbia who portant for every woman who has had SPECIAL happier than the ones who have their nip- composer Pēteris Vasks. Also Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana on the program will be Anders very important events grade’s most well-known actors will spirit of the people and their city over Đinđića 179, 10am tomy. “He told me she was very uncom- are trained to do it properly. a mastectomy. For her, it is also the end CLIENTS ples tattooed. It is incredible,” Grbić says. th Hillborg’s Peacock Tales Con- in the history of Bel- come together to read some of their the years. 15 Resonate Conference, various fortable with her appearance,” Grbić Besides, she adds, Serbia’s state health of a long and painful road that started “They are very helpful. They are not grade. favourite passages written about their While the Days of Belgrade festival locations, from 10am remembers. “She hadn’t had reconstruc- insurance does not cover the expense of when she was diagnosed and told she It is not only patients who are sceptical demanding. And at some point they usu- certo, which will be accompa- – records market, th Belgrade Loves Vinyl! nied by masked pantomime TOn April 16 Belgrade will mark 1,138 home town. is technically only four days long, re- Cvetni Trg, from 11am to 6pm tive surgery and she simply didn’t want cosmetic nipple tattoos – which is why would likely not survive. about reconstructive nipple tattoos, Grbić ally start crying,” she says. years since the first written record of The city will open the doors of its lated events will take place all month, him to see her naked.” she intends to continue performing the says. She has also met with little success While she plans to expand her practice dancers. Frost is known as the th th SUNDAY APRIL 17 Michael Jackson of the clarinet the city came to be, put to paper by the main institutions on April 18 , allow- leading up to International Jazz Day on That was when inspiration hit. “In that service at no charge to patients. A COMMON in her efforts to reach out to surgeons and beyond Serbia’s borders, Grbic says she th due to innovative performanc- quill of Pope John VIII. ing the public a rare glimpse into many April 30 , which many view as the true Exhibition: Ibeji – born twice, Museum moment I realized how big the problem Jasmina Lukić is a representative of MALIGNANCY private clinics. will continue making Serbia’s women es. The concert will take place April 19th, the end date, coincides government buildings. Later that night, closing of the festival. On that night, of African Art, Andre Nikolića 14, 11am is for women who have mastectomies,” “Let’s Be Together,“ an association that “I wrote emails to private clinics, I happy free of charge. “Our women have with the 150th anniversary of Prince the Yugoslav Film Archive will present there will be a special concert of the Exhibition and guided visit: Jelena, Grbić says. “That’s when I understood supports women who have been diag- Breast cancer is the most common called doctors who specialised in breast no money for that,” she says. “I will never at 8pm at the Ilija M Kolarac the Great Queen, SANU Gallery, Knez Endowment. Mihailo Obrenović’s receipt of the key a series of movies about Belgrade. RTS Big Band at Sava Centre. Mihajlova 35, 12pm the extent of their insecurities.” nosed with cancer as well as those who malignant tumour among women in cancer. I asked if I could do the tattooing ever charge them.” 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Novak CLUBBING Đoković AND LIVE MUSIC opens a restaurant he world’s number one tennis th th th FRIDAY APRIL 15 • Dooshan and Goran • R&B and House Night, Beton, TUESDAY APRIL 26 THURSDAY APRIL 28 player and his wife, Jelena, Starčević, Brankow, Crnogorska Karađorđeva 2, 11pm opened a restaurant specialis- • Resonate: Squarepusher, 12, 11pm • DJ Marko Radosavljević and • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, • R&B Thursday Delight, ing in healthy, vegan food in Jan Nemeček, Jackie Dagger, • Nineties, KST, Bulevar Kralja DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan Nemanjina 4, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm T th Monte Carlo on April 10 . Colleagues Aleksandra 73, 10pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan from the tennis world and other celebri- 10pm • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, th Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm WEDNESDAY APRIL 27 ties attended the pre-opening party. • Basement Freaks, Monsun, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, After the opening, Đoković posted on Travnička 3, 11pm • Betty Boom, BitefArtCafe, 10pm Karađorđeva 23, 10pm • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr social media that he is very happy with • Double Trouble, Dedinje Villa, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm • Gift Band, BitefArtCafe, • Let There Be Rock, KST, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, the restaurant’s debut. “My wife and I Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm 10pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, Karađorđevića 6, 11pm SUNDAY APRIL 17th • Stray Dogg, Ana Ćurčin, 11pm transferred our passion for healthy food • Back to Classics, Šećer, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće into a restaurant concept called Eqvita Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. Krsmanovic 4, 10pm Restaurant,” Đoković posted on Face- • Double Trouble, Dedinje Villa, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm book. Photo: Facebook Photo: Facebook Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra • RnB Night, Cinema, Gračanička SATURDAY APRIL 23rd Karađorđevića 6, 11pm 18, 11pm • Meterrorism, Dot, Francuska • Rex The Dog, Grad Cultural TRA T T O R I A 6, 11pm MONDAY APRIL 18th Centre, Braće Krsmanovic 4, Famed • Oscillate, Boža Podunavac, 11pm PIZZER I A Showroom Live Belgrade, • DJ George and Dalibor Uhrik, • No Sleep Weekend, Drugstore, fashionista’s Cetinjska 15, 11pm Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, • Nykk Deetronic Live, Old 11pm 11pm new Town, Svetogorska 14, 11pm • Kralj Čačka, Dom Kulture • Cheers to the Weekend, Nebojsina 8 collection • Vladimir Ivković/Offen Music Studentski Grad, Bulevar Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm 011/3863-999 & Orpheu the Wizard, Red , Mr Zorana Đinđića 179, 7pm • DJ George and DJ Bole [email protected] Light Radio, 20/44 boat on Sava, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm on show • Decapitated, Hate, Thy www.restoranamici.rs 11pm Disease, Krysthla, Aktaion, • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, • Midnight Orient Café vol. Dom Omladine, Makedonska Karađorđeva 2, 11pm erbian host and fashion 5, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće 22, 8pm • Disco House, Beton, designer Boško Jakovljević Krsmanović 4, 10pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm presented brand new collec- • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm TUESDAY APRIL 19th • Dooshan and Lady Dee, tion in the northern city of • Sweet and Sexy, Tilt, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm S th Novi Sad on April 10 . That was also Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Ladies’ Night and Brit’n’Bass, the closing night of the annual Serbia • Trust Me You Can Dance, Nemanjina 4, 11pm KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra KOLARAC Fashion Week, which gathers both Drugstore Play, boat on Sava • Samostalni Referenti, Dom 73, 10pm domestic and foreign fashionistas river, 11pm Kulture Studentski Grad, • Shervin Mohajer and Damir for a week of glamour. Singer Nevena , Beton, PROGRAMME • R&B and House Night Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, Imamović SevdahTakht, Dom Božović performed at the event’s clos- Karađorđeva 2, 11pm 7pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm ing night. • DJ Marko Radosavljević and , Radio • Bjesovi, Fest, Gradski Park 1, Photos: Facebook/Vladimir Veličković, Dražen • Sergio Godinho Trio Žigić, Svetlana Braun DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan Belgrade Studio Six, Hilandarska Zemun, 9pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 2, 9pm • Girls, Boys and Toys, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Petra FRIDAY, APRIL 15th Conductor: Vladimir Kulenović Belgrade Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm WEDNESDAY APRIL 20th 8, 10pm • Nežni Dalibor, Ivica, Dom Concert Hall, 8pm Soloist: Barry Douglas, piano Belgrade Philharmonic L. van Beethoven, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm th Programme: string • DJ Marko Radosavljević, SUNDAY APRIL 24 Orchestra P. I. Tchaikovsky, R. Strauss • Psihomodo Pop, Mikser House, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Cycle: For Adventurers Production: Belgrade Karađorđeva 46, 9pm quartet 10pm • No Sleep Weekend, Drugstore, Conductor: Daniel Raiskin Philharmonic • Bernay’s Propaganda, Gun • Local Music, KST, Bulevar Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Soloist: Martin Frost, clarinet plays Club, Miloša Pocerca 10, 9pm th Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm 11pm Programme: P. Vasks, C. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 27 • Bolesna Štenad, Fest, Gradski • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. Nielsen, A. Hillborg, I. Stravinsky Park 1, Zemun, 9pm Production: Belgrade Music Gallery, 6pm Turkey THURSDAY APRIL 21st Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • RnB Night, Cinema, Gračanička Philharmonic Cycle: Music Workshop SATURDAY APRIL 16th 18, 11pm Soloist: Marko Trivunović, he Belgrade Philhar- • R&B Thursday Delight, SUNDAY, APRIL 17th accordion • Madame Baheux, Sondorgo, monic’s String Quartet Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Production: Music Center • Block Party Belgrade, , Dom Omladine, performed in Izmir, Tur- • For Old Times Sake, Tranzit Praed Concert Hall 11am Admission free Grad Cultural Centre, Braće key on April 10th, playing Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, Makedonska 22, 8pm Youth Philharmonic Orchestra th T Krsmanović 4, 10pm 10pm Borislav Pašćan WEDNESDAY, APRIL 27 pieces by Dejan Despić, Wolfgang • PulseOne presents V-Sag, th • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan MONDAY APRIL 25 175 years of birth of P.I. Amadeus Mozart and Maurice WATS, Lomina 5, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tchaikovsky Concert Hall, 8pm Ravel. The four – Jelena Dragnić • Resonate: Holly Herndon, Conductor: Đorđe Pavlović RTS Symphonic Orchestra • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, • DJ George and Dalibor Uhrik, and Vladan Lončar on violin, Boris Dopplereffekt, 33.10.3402, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Conductor: Bojan Suđić Brezovac on viola and Aleksandar Karađorđeva 23, 10pm th Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 20 Programme: Kabalevsky, • Bunt, KST, Bulevar Kralja 11pm Latković on cello, paid a visit to 10pm Shostakovich Aleksandra 73, 10pm Belgrade Faculty Izmir’s conservatory. • J Star, Jung B, Worke, Šećer, Concert Hall, 8pm Production: Photos: Courtesy of Belgrade Philharminic Orchestra Chamber Orchestra Franz Liszt of Music Svetogorska 17, 11pm FRIDAY APRIL 22nd Soloist and Art Leader: Ning Admission free • Heidi, Kim Ann Foxman, Feng, violin Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm th • Lovefest Fire: James Programme: V.A. Mozart, P. SUNDAY, MAY 8 • Double Trouble, Dedinje Villa, Sarasate, S. Barber, B. Bartok Zabiella, Reset Robot, Marko Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra FREE COPY Concert Hall, 11am Karađorđevića 6, 11pm Milosavljević, Aleksandra FRIDAY, APRIL 22nd R. Schumann – Chamber Music Duende, Hangar, Belgrade Port, • Cheers to the Weekend, Plastic, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Ognjen Popović, clarinet Takovska 36, 11pm 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Boris Brezovac, viola , Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • MTV Party Extended Dream, • Rodhad, The Hecker Belgrade Philharmonic Aleksandar Latković, cello Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Orchestra Production: Music Centre Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm CITY GUIDE Available at: Stefana 115, 11pm Cycle: For Beginners Admission free • It’s All About Music, Drugstore Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Play boat on Sava river, 11pm • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm BIRN editorial team: Tourist Organisation of Belgrade • 1 on 1, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, , Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Flashback 90s and 2000s Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, [email protected] • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva 11pm Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović APROPO Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Hotel Moskva Bookstore and tearoom Phone: +381 11 4030 302 FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 [email protected] +381 11 2625839 FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior Subscription & Distribution: Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Goran Knezevic Supermarket concept store SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Hudson news odlasci / departures +381 11 4030 303 Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in [email protected] Hotel Townhouse 27 Hudson news transit zona / transit WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Order online: Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs belgrade-city-guide COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade Circulation: 4,000 Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 15 GOING OUT SPORT Elektropionir debuts in Opportunity knocks for prime downtown location Serbian football coach in Italy

Informed sources tell me that Ele- You would have ktropionir is being managed by some After he was Ivana NIKOLIĆ son, and thus took them way ahead of of the people who ran the Gun Club, Inter Milan, its cross-town rivals. to be hibernating which was located under the U.S. em- sacked by the A.C. talian media are reporting “I’ve had numerous chances to see bassy’s former location. As far as I can that Siniša Mihajlović – sacked them at work, and I always saw play- like a bear to tell, Gun Club has closed down as a Milan football club, by A.C. Milan in early April ers who wanted to graft, and Siniša nightspot and is back to being an in- over poor results – is among and his staff should be acknowledged miss the weekly door shooting range. Siniša Mihajlović is four coaches currently being for that,” Brocchi told the media as he Elektropionir is a bit similar in size, considered for the top spot was officially presented as the new debut of new shape and programme, but it seems one of the leading atI Rome’s Lazio club next season. coach. designed to a more modern plan than Mihajlović has not responded to the Mihajlović, one of the greatest foot- clubs and bars in Gun. While Gun Club was all about candidates to speculations. He has just said goodbye ball players ever to come from Serbia, showcasing bands and live music, Ele- to the club he was running for a year. took over the venerable club in 2015 an old industrial ktropionir’s offerings are a little more coach Rome’s Apart from Mihajlović, there are after his unsuccessful stint as head diverse. three other possible names in the run- coach of Serbia’s national team. He complex located The club is open seven days a week, Lazio – the club he ning to head Lazio – Vincenzo Montel- was hailed as a man who could de- so there’s plenty of room for variety as la, Eusebio Di Francesco and current liver championships when he arrived at Cetinjska 15. far as the musical programme is con- played for during Lazio coach Simone Inzaghi. in Milan. cerned. All of the hippest underground However, the final decision is yet to However, this has not been the real- DJ collectives are being invited to Ele- his career as a left- be made. ity for “Rossoneri” fans this season. ktropionir, as are most of the best local After being released by A.C. Milan, Milan spent around €90 million and regional urban rock bands. back. Mihajlović addressed his supporters on reinforcements like Carlos Bacca, David GALIĆ Elektropionir promises to deliver a in Italian on Twitter on April 12th, say- Mario Balotelli, Juraj Kucka and Luiz little bit of everything club-goers like. ing: “Thank you for all the love. It was Adriano, building a roster most Series The club is positioning itself as the ideal place for urban and underground music fans who are open to a Photo: Facebook hese properties, owned Like Gun, the club looks as if it’s not wide spectrum of genres and styles. an honour.” A day before, A.C. Milan A teams would envy. But despite the until recently by a going to shy away from booking for- thanked him “for the dedication and big names and big spending, head famed Belgrade brew- eign bands. Just a couple weeks ago, the stage is quite narrow. And this can The interior design isn’t particularly It will be interesting to see if Elektro- hard work carried out this season.” coach Mihajlović has not delivered ery, hit the market sud- the club hosted Finnish psychedelic be a problem. Though it has been open distinctive. The club is fairly dark with pionir and the other clubs opening up Mihajlović was replaced by Cristian the envisioned title for Milan. denly this winter, send- rockers Hexvessel - one of the more for just a few weeks, Elektropionir is an assortment of forgettable pictures in Cetinjska will hang on to their large Brocchi, 40, who has guided Milan's He was finally sacked after Milan ing club promoters into interesting and relevant names on the already quite popular. On Fridays and and stuff on the walls. None of that mat- crowds once summer settles in. Most youth team to 28 points out of a pos- was defeated by another Italian club, Ta flurry of competition to secure a spot international rock scene. The club has Saturdays the crowds can make it un- ters, of course, because Elektropionir is of the new clubs don’t offer outdoor sible 30 in the second half of the sea- Juventus, 2:1 on April 9th. Mihajlović is one of the greatest football players to come from Serbia. Photo: Beta in a desirable downtown location par- also hosted shows for forward-thinking comfortable, especially if you drift into all about the music and it’s already on seating, and the old industrial buildings allel to the Skadarlija Street bohemian domestic groups like The Cyclist Con- the middle of the club while it’s at ca- its way to becoming one of the busiest don’t seem to offer modern ventilation quarter. spiracy and Bitipatibi. pacity. You may have to resort to some clubs in the city. or air conditioning. Elektropionir is among the newest The club is positioning itself as the serious pushing and shoving to work Elektropionir can host electronic For now, Elektropionir is putting itself and most innovative clubs to open up ideal place for urban and underground your way to the bar. music parties much as Drugstore does on the map as one of the best winter/fall Regional basketball league at the Ceinjska complex. It has already music fans who are open to a wide It seems that club security doesn’t and it can serve up rock and alterna- club options for the young alternative established itself as one of the hottest spectrum of genres and styles. care much about capacity. I haven’t seen tive music shows as Gun did – but with crowd. spots in town, at least until summer’s Like Gun Club, Elektropionir sets large lines forming in front of the club a better, more central location than ei- makes agreement with Euroleague hot weather arrives and Belgrade club- a very narrow profile. The club is L- despite the fact that patrons are packed ther club. It’s no great stretch to predict Elektropionir goers start migrating to the river. shaped and the portion that leads to in like sardines on weekend nights. that Elektropionir has a bright future. Address: Cetinjska 15 Filip AVRAMOVIĆ wildcard status, the so-called special Regional basketball invitation spot. First headliner announced 5th annual Todo Mundo league ABA and the here was a delay in Insiders say it is possible for ABA to th making the deal official, have two representatives in the elite for Mikser Festival Festival starts April 19 clubs that manage but representatives of Euroleague someday if the competi- ABA League champi- tion expands. it have signed a ons Red Star Belgrade The relationships among national ikser, one of the during which the singer has performed odo Mundo is Belgrade's only international world music four-year contract requested that Euro- and regional leagues with Euroleague biggest music and at the biggest and most significant festival, and it's entering its fifth year. The festival will Tleague Commercial Assets make the came into focus when representatives art festivals of the world music festivals. take place April 19th-25th at three locations: Dom Om- with Euroleague deal official as soon as possible. The of FIBA, the International Basketball summer, has signed The Mikser Festival's 2016 theme is ladine, the Faculty of Musical Arts and Radio Belgrade's contract, which was signed on April Federation, clashed with those of ULEB, a special headliner “Sensitive Society”. The festival always Studio 6. Commercial Assets, 13th, will secure four places in European the Union of European Leagues of Bas- Mthis year. Organisers have announced has some type of link to social issues. TA wide variety of performers will take to the stages, including championships for clubs from the ABA ketball. which manages that Mostar Sevdah Reunion and Esma This makes Redžepova an even more Iranian music legend Shervin Mohajer, Lebanese duo Praed, Vienna- or Adriatic league. FIBA threatened to expel some coun- Redžepova will perform at this year’s appropriate headliner. The singer is based female quartet Madame Baheux, and of course, many folk and the European The winner of the local league will be tries from the World Championships if festival. known as a great humanitarian who world music purveyors from all over the Balkan region. eligible to play in the Euroleague, while they decided to play in the Euroleague. Known as one of the greatest has adopted a 47 needy children and As always, there will be an educational aspect to the festival as well. championships the three following clubs will be eligible Since this signing was just one of nu- voices to ever come from the Balkans, sponsored several children's hospitals Hungarian band Sondorgo will not only be performing, but will also Euroleague and for a spot in the Eurocup. The fifth club Belgrade’s Red Star and Zagreb’s Cedevita players at the match in Zagreb. Photo: Beta merous contracts Euroleague has ex- Redžepova will play in Belgrade on and safe houses over the years. Tickets hold a workshop. Tickets events range from free to six euros for the on the table will be eligible for a wild- pean championships have become ter-finals, while arch-rivals Partizan, ecuted with local and regional leagues, June 12th with her band. Redžepova’s can be purchased for seven euros until festival’s events. Learn more at the Dom Omladine website: http:// Eurocup. card issued by the Eurocup. known. along with Cedevita and Budućnost, it has become clear that FIBA lost the career spans more than five decades, May 15th, after which they will cost ten. www.domomladine.org/ After the signing of the contract, Title holder Red Star will go to Euro- will play in the Eurocup next season. fight against ULEB president, chairman clubs eligible for playing the Euro- league, where they will play in the quar- Union Olimpija will be eligible for and CEO Jordi Bertomeu.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE James Zabiela leads Decapitated headlines for in-depth analysis, Famed Exit stage Lovefest Fire lineup Polish death metal mini-fest Locals pay tribute investigative reports, celebrates anniversary to Joey Ramone features, interviews, The Lovefest in Vrnjačka Banja has be- Fans of really, really heavy music commentary and profiles The No Sleep stage, one of the most come one of the premier music events should be sure to check out an April Head to Mikser House on April 15th if on the latest business and popular stages of the Exit Festival in in Belgrade over the past several years. 18 event featuring big names from Macedonian punk you're a fan of New York’s legendary political headlines. Novi Sad, is celebrating 20 years with Music lovers say the festival’s promo- Poland's very influential extreme music rockers back in Belgrade Ramones. The night kicks off with a a concert event in Belgrade. Headlin- tional warm-up events have are often scene. Headlining the event will be leg- 6pm discussion of the band’s impact, ing the event will be Rodhad and The just as good. This warm-up concert, endary death metal band Decapitated, Bernays Propaganda, a popular punk marking 15 years since the death of Hacker. Some of the other Djs lined up Lovefest Fire, will be headlined by DJ supported by Hate and Thy Disease. rock band from Macedonia, will kick off leader Joey Ramone. At 9pm, Croatian to play the event include locals Tijana James Zabiela, and includes additional This Polish-themed mini-fest will be a European tour in Belgrade at the Ele- pop punk all-stars Psihodomodo Pop OTHER SERVICES: T, DJ Boža Podunavac, Filip Xavi and acts like Aleksandra Duende and Reset rounded off with three additional ktropionir club on April 15th. The band will play a show in Joey Ramone’s many more. The two-day event will Robot. The party will take place on international bands. The venue is Dom is promiting its latest album, “Politika”. honour. Don't be surprised if they cover take place at Drugstore. Tickets are April 23rd at Hangar, located by the Bel- Omladine at Makedonska 22. Tickets at Tickets are four euros. Supporting the some Ramones classics. Tickets will be available for five euros per night. grade Port. Tickets cost four euros. the door will cost €16. band will be local band Triko. six euros at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 15 - Thursday, April 28, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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