PEAK AREA Lookiing west from Kiinder.. Photo::Austiin Knott.. NEWSLETTER

July 2021 [email protected]

Rocking Chair the last meeting. If you weren’t there, you Andy Reeve missed out on seeing the very humble Louise looking rather embarrassed (much to Howdy stranger! It’s my glee, sorry Louise)! I’m not aware of been a while … at least, anything quite like a repeat of this at the it feels that way to me.When I last coming meeting, but then even if there was, I wrote one of these I was minded to wouldn’t be able to tell you, would I? So write a poem expressing the you’d better come along just in case! reawakening of both spring and my I’m still missing the social aspect of the clumsy limbs remembering how to in-person local area meetings, but I’m climb outside; now the longest day is hopeful that we will be able to return to behind us. these in the not-too-distant future.This time Without a doubt the recent highlight in we have Mike Cheque – not a man to ever the BMC-sphere has been our local access miss an opportunity for a natter – showing rep Louise Hawson being awarded the Lord off his photography and regaling us with the Greaves Award. I couldn’t mention this stories which go with them. He’ll be good at before because Louise didn’t know about it this: I can honestly say that while walking in until she was ambushed with the award at to Shining Clough with him I didn’t manage

Next meeting: Thursday 8 July, 7 p.m. The Internet. Register HERE. to get a word in edgeways. Particularly in the northern Peak, the Anyway, that’s enough waffle on me closure of vast areas of open moorland on taking the mickey from a mate.What else contiguous estates, quite legally, for 28 days has been going on? The multiply postponed (for management purposes) during the area hill walk took place, Mend Our grouse breeding season has a cumulative Mountains have mended our mountains, and effect akin to closing the national park. there is the usual full gamut of access None of the closure signs tell you where developments to hear about to help you you can go – perhaps because there isn’t plan your climbing and walking around. anywhere. For people desperate to get out of cities Access News: General and enjoy the countryside these restrictions Henry Folkard are an infuriating hassle on what was going to be a day of innocent enjoyment, away What are the main access problems from it all. for both climbers and walkers at the For people keen to be part of a moment, and can we do anything community who enjoy the same thing as about them? they do it’s important to be wherever the For both, there is the common problem place to be is, which might be a new of accessibility, which has been getting worse bouldering venue, or a body of water for for a while – that is to say the problem of wild swimming (over 100 wild swimmers at simply getting to where you want to go. Barbrook Reservoir the other day) or a Partly it’s a matter of more yellow lines, mountain bike route that has to be timed. caused by lots of people wanting to go to We have a big problem in a crowded place the same places; partly by more pay and which may or may not ameliorate if display, which not everyone likes and so restrictions ease.To the various authorities avoids (whether in the town or in the one might say,‘think outside just your area of country); and partly it’s not being able to go responsibility to the wider impact’.What do on the hill at all if you do get to where you you expect anyone who has mobility want to go. problems to do if there is no reliable public We all understand the Covid-related transport and you are strapped for cash? problems, but the result is that the Peak may What will be the impact of your parking not seem a hugely welcoming place.There is restrictions on wildlife and conservation by as yet no indication of when measures that moving a parking problem down the road were supposed to be temporary will be with yellow lines or pay and display, and relaxed, and for some local residents the changing normal patterns of human passage? impact of high volumes of people arriving by Is the priority in a national park to achieve car and parking all over the place is a unimpeded traffic flow, as fast as it can go? Is significant problem, and, they might say, an there not a better way to manage moorland impediment to them going about their than blanket exclusion (though remember normal everyday business. closures do not affect public rights of way)? Is For others, people arriving by car are an there not room for some joined-up thinking? income opportunity where income And for us, the experienced recreational generation may be a prime focus as other user, what can we do? First off, funding sources diminish: looking after open representative organisations like the BMC, country is not achieved at nil cost by anyone. the Ramblers and Ride Sheffield can be part

2 Peak Area Newsletter July 2021 BMC Area hiillll wallk on Miillll Hiillll iin June.. Photo::Peter Judd..

of the solution rather than representative of where we can and do talk together like the the problem. Recent BMC campaigns on Sheffield Moors Partnership. Individually, we fires, barbeques, litter, wild camping and the can all make our own contribution by like, and sundry videos, have led the way on thinking about where we go, and when; how this. It can be in the nature of authorities to we share information in a way that be directive.They may achieve more by minimises mass impact; and showing talking to each other and more to the user consideration to others who are enjoying groups too. It’s not just the authorities’ the area in different way, or living and problem, its ours too, but if we are not seen working there. But there is no easy answer. as part of the decision-making process any Nationally, we have to be concerned that sense of shared responsibility is diminished the government has published the Police, and the chance of shared solutions lost.We Crime, Sentencing and Courts Bill, all have to reflect carefully on how we enjoy apparently ignoring the numerous responses the countryside, what we want it to look to its consultation which, as an article in the like, how everything will be paid for, and Open Spaces Society magazine puts it, what our own responsibilities towards ‘expressed massive opposition to the general conservation and enhanced proposed new authoritarian powers’.The biodiversity beyond our particular specialist article continues,‘the bill creates many new interest might be. criminal offences which could affect our It’s not all doom and gloom: there are rights to peaceful protest and our ability to rays of hope like the Sheffield to Manchester camp on land. Much of the wording is ill- bus that goes over the Snake and allows you defined and thus would result in uncertain to walk over Kinder on National Trust land, outcomes.We fear that, even if it does not held for ever for everyone, and come back endanger innocent walkers, riders and by train from , and there are places cyclists (as government claims it will not)

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 3 the bill could create a climate of hostility in on and off the lead, in the valley. the countryside with people nervous of Wildlife Trust is however set to introduce exercising their rights for fear of doing the beavers at a site at Willington, further south wrong thing, and landowners having a new in the county. Elsewhere at Burbage and on confidence to challenge them. Houndkirk there is likely to be some ‘In 2010 environment ministers withdrew rewetting of the peat.This will be better for financial support for permissive access in biodiversity, better for wildfire control, agri-environment schemes and 58,500 better for hydrology and better for carbon kilometres of path disappeared.There are capture, though it will make the experience promises from Defra, but is there joined up of walking over the wetter areas, if that is thinking from government on those what you decide to do, different.There may promises, and on the value of outdoor also be a closure – with adequate proper recreation, when we have HS2, the £27- notice – of parts of the BurbageValley for billlion road programme, the wrecking of the the purpose of making a film.This prospect planning system all set to destroy those was raised at a meeting of the Sheffield promises, along with ancient woodlands, Moors Partnership and BMC, Ramblers and green spaces and treasured landscapes’. Do Sheffield LAF all agreed that the potential the public have any role in determining what benefits to the area in terms of income for public goods their public money will buy conservation outweighed any temporary under the new Environment Land inconvenience.There would, however, be Management Scheme, or is that adequate warning that this was going to determination to be left solely in the hands happen, if it is. of farmers? The public inquiry into the infamous In the world of access there is quite a lot green matting on Midhope Moor, Mickleden going on both locally and nationally, and to Edge is to be held in July.This will be held answer my opening question, one can too virtually.The BMC has already made written easily despair there isn't much we can do submissions – an earlier inquiry had to be about it. It is with huge regret that the sad postponed – and we will be making news came through of the sudden death of additional written comments now. On a Tony Greaves – Baron Greaves of Pendle – recent visit to the site Peter and I noted who was one of our BMC Patrons. He was a how the matting was breaking up through shining champion of our interests, and his exposure to ultraviolet light and depositing contribution to the Countryside and Rights small pieces of plastic on to the moor, of Way Act back in 2000 has given us all presumably for ever as it will be impossible some of the freedoms we now enjoy – a to remove them, or until birds, like red proud legacy indeed. grouse, eat them.The gist of our submission We are still working on our position will be that over and above its negative paper on Rewilding, which we hope to have impact on a protected landscape and the available for a future meeting so that we, as self-evident fact it is not fit for purpose, key major stakeholders, can give our views laying the matting there was a flagrant on how the landscape we cherish evolves in breach of statutory planning control, by the future. Incidentally, it is now very unlikely which we are all bound, shooting estates that beavers will ever be introduced into the included.The earlier decision on Rushy Flat BurbageValley; they could not co-exist with Dike seems to us to be directly relevant as the huge number of dogs that are exercised, that was also the imposition on the

4 Peak Area Newsletter July 2021 Mend our Mountatiins detaiill on the Great Riidge.. Photo::Peter Judd..

landscape of a track to grouse butts without currently free, including Hooks Carr planning permission. (Popular), Dennis Knoll (High Neb) and A final point: we all know there are more Upper Burbage Bridge (Burbage North).The deer about (including muntjac and roe deer), cost of a park-wide annual permit is and fewer sheep. Deer are vectors for ticks, proposed to be increased by 65%.There will and sheep to an extent controlled them as now be an external consultation on the the ticks which fed on them were killed by introduction of the new charges, although toxic dipping. Beware as there are more we don’t know the timing of this. Keep an ticks about on the moors than there used to eye on the national park website and social be.Always check for Lyme disease when you media channels for more information. get home, and seek medical advice if you Removal of the diseased larch from the suspect you have picked up an infection. Hollin Bank plantation is still planned for And that’s all for now. Enjoy the summer. autumn 2021.As well as the closure of the bridleway (for which an alternative route will be signposted), this will mean closure of Area-Specific Updates part of the car park for works equipment. We are asking the National Park Authority Stanage to keep us informed of the plans and liaise Louise Hawson with us about communication with walkers, climbers and cyclists, and alternative parking The National Park Authority has approved provision. proposals to increase parking charges at Authority-owned car parks, including Hollin Bank (Plantation), by 16%, and to introduce charging at some car parks which are

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 5 The new Font 7a bullgiing wallll at Two Tiier.. Photo::Mark Rankiine..

Climbing News & Gossip cleaning off the top of the neglected but Dave Parry excellent route Placid House, meaning it now tops out on clean rock rather than requiring You know the drill by now; I usually pulling on a sling to surmount the top. Mark begin with an into paragraph with some also added a slightly more difficult right-hand sarcastic take on recent events and/or finish at the same grade (E6 6c).Across the weather.With that in mind, since the valley at Rivelin Quarries, Mark has added a last Peak news the weather held pretty direct start to Delivered to give Arriving good, cool and dry for a number of Somewhere but Not Here at E7 6c. Further weeks giving excellent conditions for south Mark has done a peg-protected direct gritstone routes. However, we didn’t finish to an old problem of Jon Fullwood’s at seem to see the slew of hard repeats Bradley Quarry,Wolf In Cheap Clothing.The full that you might expect. Maybe this is just route is called Big BradWolf and goes at E6 6c. how it is these days; when the weather Speaking of the aforementioned trilobite is unseasonably cool it catches people prospector, Jon has been busy up on Bamford out, and nobody is willing to jeopardise Edge on the section north of the Ping Pong their training plan and break a Pocket Rib.These blocks have been picked deadhanging block by actually going over by a few people over the years but never climbing. Gainz tho. recorded, but recently a few landings have For a time, the oft-overlooked Wyming been sorted out, new lines added, and there’s Brook main crag was the place to be this now a very decent circuit of problems and a spring.A lot of the routes on the main crag worthwhile destination for a day out. Some of were clean and chalked, and everything was the standout problems are Pog Champ (Font bone dry. Mark Rankine did a great public 7a+), which is a huggy prow sitter climbed service to fans of local esoterica by fully direct, and lies about 100m left of Ping Pong

6 Peak Area Newsletter July 2021 Pocket Rib.Then 20m left again is a tall face, the activity at that crag – worth a look if you’re left arête being Clem Fandango (Font 7a) from that way inclined. And from here we segue low.The wall right again is Hello Steven (Font neatly into limestone retrobolting, this time 7a+/b), trending left to join the previous fairly uncontroversially, as Simon Lee has fully problem for the last couple of moves.Those equipped an old, neglected trad route of his seeking out something a little harder might own atTwoTier. Ghee Force is now F7a+ with a enjoy a tussle with timber retailer Ned few new bolts, and ‘two stars’, although it’s Feehally’s new one taking the wall left of probably not uncharitable to suggest that you Something Silly at 7c+/8a, called Chinook, albeit might buy Ghee Force at my estimation of its probably not one for the short-arse quality, and sell it at Simon’s estimation of its community (and it is a community). quality, and realise a heathy profit*. Just to Ned has also climbed the left arête of the clarify, I know Simon doesn’t mind being the Suavito block at Gardom’s South.There’s two butter the odd joke by the whey (this versions of this, one copping left into a pocket, sentence is a better ghee pun than you’re one going more direct, both in the Font 7c to giving it credit for). 8a range with a poor landing. Does look like a Adjacent to Ghee Force, Mark Rankine and great line though if you can neutralise the Matt Ferrier have done a few problems up to landing. If you’re after something with a nicer the half-height ledge. Malnutrition start is Font landing then at Burbage South Ned has done a 5+, the rib Font 6a+, the groove Font 6c and direct start into Hell for Leather on Millwheel the bulging wall is around Font 7a.Worth Wall. Depending what guide you read this may knowing about if you’re ever there with a pad or may not be the line previously credited as to boulder the start of Entrée and fancy Hell For Leather, but it’s about Font 7c into an something else to go at. easier finish, which seems a far cry from the Back on the grit, earlier in the springToby original grade of E4 6b so it remains a bit of a Wright climbed Sentinel Prow at Chatsworth at mystery where that route originally went. E6 6b (or very highball 6c/7a ish), which is sort A few more recent Fullwood contributions of the prow between, and possibly using holds include (but not limited to) a few problems on on both of, Sentinel Groove andTheTrain Now a boulder under Curbar, in the Art ofWhite Hat Standing.And. finally, Peak newsletter layout Wearing neck of the woods. Notable is a fridge- supremo and Spanish guitar virtuoso John hugging type prow from sitting given the genius Coefield did a more direct finish to Grease name of Fridge Magnate at Font 7a+.The left Lightning (which itself is a left finish on Electrical arête climbed a little further left, and the left Storm) at Burbage South.This is called HiiiPower sidewall, are both 7a on their own.And literally (Font 7b+), and ideally you’ll want a few pads – yesterday as I write this, Jon did an arête just get to it before the top-out gets dirty again. above the road under the Froggatt hairpin *(Apologies to the former honourable boulder, Elephants Gerald is a Font 7a+ arête member for Buckingham for shamelessly with a slopey landing on a buttress a way left of stealing that putdown.) the one with Isla Grace on. On the limestone a few sport routes have Get in touch gone up on Church Buttress inWCJ Dale. Send your Peak area news, gossip or article Details can be found on Gary Gibson’s ideas to me at: [email protected] website (www.sportsclimbs.co.uk). Incidentally, I notice Gary has a new guide out for Harper Hill with funds going to bolting

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 7 Mend Our Mountaiins actiion on the Great Riidge.. Photo::Gllyniis Judd..

Hill Walking News the first purple flashes of heather flowers to be Peter Judd,Austin Knott &Vikki Hughes seen. Keeping an eye on the ground is not just about avoiding tripping over!There are birds to With summer finally here, the Peak hear and see, with curlew, skylark and lapwing District’s hills and valleys are looking much in evidence recently, especially when you particularly green, there’s abundant stray near their nesting spots – don’t forget to foliage on the trees, grasses standing take the hint and not linger: move away! tall and bright green fronds of new bracken are uncurling to mask off those Area Walk from Hayfield broad areas of brown and orange that It took a long time to come to fruition, but otherwise give our hills their distinctive our first Peak Area walk since the pandemic and varied colour pallet during autumn, began took place in June.The hill walking winter and spring. reps were rewarded with a lot of interest in Meadows kept free of livestock (especially the walk and a great turnout, including the those that have not been ploughed and re- BMC’s new CEO, Paul Davies! seeded in recent years) are rich with The walk started from Hayfield, climbed up wildflowers just now.A wander up Ridgeway on to via Cluther Rocks following Side, above Hathersage, or down into the the edge path in an anti-clockwise direction to meadows belowThe Grouse Inn near Froggatt, a lunch stop near Kinder Downfall, continuing for example, offers a rich array of such flowers: through Sandy Heys to and Burnt Hill clovers, buttercups, oxeye daisies, vetches, before returning via Middle Moor and the germander speedwell, bird’s foot trefoil, lady’s Snake Path.The walk provided an opportunity smock and cow parsley, to name but a few. for discussions on the role of the BMC, the On the moor tops there are carpets of famous KinderTrespass and the fascinating heath bedstraw, patches of tormentil and even story behind an aircraft wreck we passed.

8 Peak Area Newsletter July 2021 The hill walking reps were grateful to Jason A number of water-diverting barriers have Johnstone and Michelle Martin for providing been positioned strategically across some of the extra leadership support on this walk. Everyone repaired sections to divert rainwater off the path contributed on the day too, with members (water flow being a major means by which path willing to mix and point out points of interest, erosion occurs).Perhaps we walkers need to and importantly there was enthusiasm for more take it upon ourselves to keep an eye on these Peak Area walks, (see below). channels and periodically clear the inevitable debris buildup,that will otherwise compromise Repairs Completed the effectiveness of these important defences? The end of May saw the long-awaited Anybody up for helping with that? completion of the second of the ’s BMC Mend our Mountains funded Area Walk,August: interested? projects when contractors laid the final After the success of our walk from Hayfield in reclaimed sandstone slabs on Great Ridge, June, we have plans for another walk, this time completing the last stretch of new paving to straddling the national park boundary and reach .The mix of techniques taking inTegg’s Nose and .We’ve used (paving, pitching – on steeper sections picked Saturday 14 August for the walk and such as the lower section of BackTor – and will announce full details via the Peak Area some aggregate path work) stretch for 500 Facebook page (and by other means) nearer metres, in two sections, repairing some of the the time. If you’d like a nudge when we start most worn parts of this extraordinarily taking bookings then please email Peter: popular route.They provide a more robust [email protected] and sustainable surface that should encourage walkers to stay on the path and off the AVolunteering Opportunity increasingly eroded margins, for years to come. After our popular sphagnum planting Peak Park ConservationVolunteers have been volunteering day with National Trust a couple along since, distributing appropriately selected of years ago, we’re pleased to announce seeds, to encourage regeneration of plant life there’ll be another opportunity to help NT’s on areas disturbed by the work. Kinder and High Peak Estate rangers this Moors for the Future Partnership, who have autumn.Those who wander over the moor expertly and sensitively managed the work on tops around the Snake Pass (and even those behalf of the Peak District National Park, point who drive along that route) cannot help but out that most of the slabs used have come from notice the progressive intrusion of self- paving reclaimed from former northern mills. seeding Sitka Spruce and other invasive Before that they were, of course, themselves species all poking out above the moor tops. quarried from similar grit/sandstone hillsides to NT have asked us to provide a team of those on which they have now found their new volunteers willing to help them rip up and purpose – a pleasing closing of the circle! remove some of these unwelcome intruders BMC Peak Area volunteers made an that would otherwise colonise the area, inspection of this work recently and our view is under their direction and with the necessary that it has been done to a good standard and in tools provided, on Sunday 26 September. sympathy with the location.A very pleasing We’re not asking for a commitment to come outcome for all those who contributed to the just yet, but would welcome expressions of crowdfunding or attended the Light Night line interest. please email Peter: peak10roam- of head torches event three years ago. [email protected]

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 9 Peak Area Meetings: 2021

8 July, 7 p.m.,The Internet. Register HERE.

Forthcoming Events BMC Peak Area Contacts http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak Peak Area Chair:Andy Reeve. Peak Area Hill Walk [email protected] Tegg's Nose, Saturday 14 August Secretary:Ana Wass. See page 9 and the Peak Area Facebook [email protected] page for more information. Peak Area Reps (your voice on the BMC Invasive Species Removal National Council): Snake Pass, Sunday 26 September David Brown and Alison Cairns. More info about this volunteering opportunity on page 9. Access Reps Co-ordinators: Henry Folkard and Louise Hawson. Due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, [email protected] many events have been cancelled or [email protected] postponed. For the latest information on forthcoming events in the Peak Area, please Peak Area Hill Walking Reps: keep an eye on the BMC's community pages. Peter Judd,Austin Knott andVikki Hughes. [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Peak Area Newsletter Editorial: Dave Parry and John Coefield. [email protected]

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. Find out more: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-governance