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Vol. XXII No. 9 MUSINGS August 16-31, 2012 Special Madras Week issue Seeking a place in Sites proposed in Tamil Nadu Site Proposer

Srirangam World Heritage Kailasanatha Archaeological Survey of (By A Special Correspondent) Temple, Kanchi India, Chennai Chapter Fort St George INTACH, Chennai Chapter ast week saw the Advisory nomadic communities, unique Heritage status. The State, LCommittee, World Heri- forms of agriculture, which are along with Kerala and Adam’s Bridge School of Planning & tage Matters, constituted under on the wane, and living ex- Karnataka, also has the West- Architecture, the Ministry of Culture, Gov- amples of heritage such as his- ern Ghats that has recently ernment of India, visiting toric cities that are still in use. made it to the list. Chettinad Houses Revive Chettinad Chennai. The Departments of In Tamil Nadu, Mamalla- The presentations were done Development Project Tourism of the southern States, puram, the Nilgiri Mountain by all the southern States and the Archaeological Survey of Railway and three of the major Union Territories. Tamil Nadu Lake AARDE Foundation India and several NGOs, in- Chola temples – Briha- had seven recommendations Kazhugumalai Temple, DHAN Foundation cluding INTACH, were invited deeswarar, Gangaikondachola- (see box). Each of the presenta- Tirunelveli to present their views on sites/ puram and Darasuram – are the tions was to be of five minutes’ buildings/precincts in South only sites which enjoy World (Continued on page 2) India that they considered worthy of World Heritage status. This by itself is a first, for the South has never been con- sidered in such lists. The con- Will Union Finance Minister sultations are, however, only a preliminary step and do not by themselves amount to any kind keep his promise? of recognition or even a prom- ise of future recognition. But ndia has a new Finance Minister in P. Chidambaram. The port- despite the CMDA having inspected the building and given it a they did give the South an op- Ifolio is, of course, not new to him, for he has held it several times clean chit on grounds of structural stability. It was also considered portunity to present its views. before. The markets are hoping that his taking over the portfolio to be of Grade ‘A’ significance in term of its architecture. World Heritage status is will bring a new phase of growth for the Indian economy. The Fi- usually granted by UNESCO to nance Minister has promised to take steps to “keep the market The demolition was challenged by INTACH and the CMDA in sites of special physical or tempo upbeat.” While welcoming this, we at hope the High Court of Madras. By the time a stay could be obtained, cultural significance. Of the 911 that he will also keep an earlier promise, that of restoring Bharat large portions of the roof had been removed. LIC preferred to take sites listed across the world, Insurance (Kardyl) Building. the matter to the Supreme Court which referred the matter to the India has 29, of which merely High Court of Madras. The latter in a landmark judgement in 2010 five are in the South. A further It was on August 24, 2008 that the Minister was in the city to included Bharat Insurance Building in a set of 400-plus heritage 33 have been submitted by release a book on the Connemara Hotel penned by structures that could not be demolished. The India for consideration and the Editor of Madras Musings. The sorry state of grade ‘A’ certification was also confirmed. none from the South was in the Bharat Insurance Building was brought to his notice G By The Editor list. This was, therefore, sent and, in his speech, he promised that he would The matter has since been challenged by the back for revision and that re- ensure its preservation and restoration. To quote LIC in the Supreme Court. Meanwhile, under the sulted in the present discussion. from the Indo-Asian News Service report of the guise of protecting the building, LIC had it Moreover, it was felt that the event, these were the Minister’s words: “I promise, by using or mis- covered with plastic sheets, which it subsequently removed. It has lists from India tended to lean using my powers, I will instruct LIC (Life Insurance Corporation of also put up notices all around the building declaring that it is towards majority of monu- India) not to bring down the historic Bharat Insurance Building. structurally unsafe. That it has no intentions of protecting the ments, most of them from the The building could be used as a training centre or even as a edifice is clear from the fact that it has permitted Metrorail to carry Mughal era. UNESCO, on the museum.” This was hailed by every newspaper that reported the on work within the precinct, in close proximity to the building. other hand, prefers inclusion of event. natural habitats, representa- INTACH has in the past suggested to LIC that the structure And rightfully so, for that would be a service that will be forever tions from pastoral and ought to be preserved just as the LIC has done with several historic remembered with gratitude in this city. Bharat Insurance Building buildings in its possession in Bombay. But LIC has chosen to turn has been an integral part of the city’s skyline from the 19th Cen- a deaf ear. It is understood that LIC wants to build a modern multi- tury. It also typifies what has been described as Indo-Saracenic storey building on the site. architecture run riot. Considering that Madras gave birth to that particular style, would it not be appropriate if the building was re- That Bharat Insurance Building continues to stand despite so FAREWELL tained and splendidly restored to its delightful best. much neglect is by itself a miracle. It will be a greater miracle if the LIC changes its stance. The Finance Minister is perhaps the only (see page 3) Not according to the LIC. It had allowed the building to go to seed and in 2006 initiated proceedings for its demolition. This was one who can ensure that. CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2012 World Heritage status sought Getting people together

(Continued from page 1) siers. There they will compete the bureaucratic way duration, with discussions after with sites nominated from After the refreshments had bosses who in turn were ap- that. Very few of the presenting across the world to, hopefully, Meeting ... given out, those that had made plauded by the local minions. teams adhered to this norm, make it to a final list. Once he Man from Madras it to the feast retired to chew As a result the local panjan- with the usual tendency to be listed, UNESCO expects the T Musings was urgently the cud and the rest subsided drums had louder applause verbose being a prominent fea- site to adopt stringent norms of summoned to discuss matters into a coma. At around 11.30 and this was not liked by the ture. conservation and even the of pith and moment with one am, there was another minor babus from up north. The State Government did smallest deviation could result of the grand panjandrums stir. A lunch bag arrived, pre- Preceding the lamp-light- running this State of ours. ceded by a flask and a towel. ing was a prayer to be played its best to do an overkill on its in delisting. Hampi almost suf- The minion who called MMM These were deposited with due off a recorder. Everyone was own nomination by pushing it fered this ignominy a few years did not inform him in as many ceremony in some inner sanc- ordered to remain standing. up in the order of presentation, ago when a bridge was con- words, but hinted through tum. At 11.45, just when Long after everyone stood up, trying to get some more time, structed in contravention of tone of voice that a minute’s MMM began wondering if he the recorder refused to switch etc. It is, however, a moot point UNESCO norms. That has delay this way or that would ought make something out of on and the standing-in-silence as to how much of the presenta- since been set right. It will be a be to MMM’s detriment. Not the rest of the day and earn a became more like a condo- tions the Advisory Committee tall order for any site in India to that MMM would have dared. rupee or two, the building be- lence meet. Meanwhile, the al- was able to absorb, given that it strictly adhere to UN regula- Courage to defy, as his good stirred itself. Peons and clerks ready-nervous, stammering listened to almost thirty of them tions. lady (or She Who Must Be began running around. Some and apoplectic Master of Cer- during the course of the day. That said, it was an opportu- Obeyed) would attest, is not parked themselves expectantly emonies got off stage to go and among MMM’s virtues. in front of the lift. At precisely check what was wrong with But to be fair to its team, the nity for Tamil Nadu and its So the appointed hour saw 12 noon, a pair of double doors the music system. Someone short-listed sites will be given a neighbours to air their heritage. MMM present himself at the opened with a flourish and to a must have twiddled with the year and sufficient funding to This brought to light several portals of power. The minion, chorus of sycophantic greet- volume meanwhile and so prepare a dossier for further forgotten and unknown having no doubt sighted ings, the great personality when the music suddenly got consideration. treasures. Leaving aside the MMM from a ravelin or a bas- whom MMM and other non- going it was in full blast and This, of course, is not the last possibility of these heritage sites tion or a lunette, preferred to entities had waited for saun- MMM bit his tongue in shock. word. The short-listed sites will making it to UNESCO list, such remain out-of-sight. A call on tered in. Everyone was herded It was a good thing that those then be forwarded to exercises will help keep heritage MMM’s cell from a landline into the conference room and on stage, no doubt owing to UNESCO along with the dos- in focus. That by itself is a step (so that MMM could not call the meeting began with not a being tightly packed, did not back and establish contact) word of apology for the wait. or could not move a muscle. in the right direction. tersely informed him that he It proceeded along expected Otherwise we would have had needed to proceed to a certain lines and ended with a promise a bureaucratic reshuffle. floor and enter a conference of a second meeting a couple For the lower orders in the room. of days later. On the appointed Government, this meeting was It was exactly 10.30 am day, the anonymous minion a happy day out, in air-condi- A big ‘Thank You’ and MMM duly mounted the called again and said that the tioned comfort. Several heads to 23 of you We publish below the list of donors who have, between 16.07.12 SHORT ‘N’ SNAPPY and 15.08.12, added to the support Chennai Heritage and its voice, Madras Musings, have already received. We thank all of them for staircase, two steps at a time. meeting had been postponed nodded, which in a private en- their support for the causes Chennai Heritage espouses. After all, it would not do to by two days. This by itself was terprise would have ensured – Chennai Heritage keep the poobah waiting. On an improvement. MMM would that they rolled. arriving MMM found the not have been surprised if he conference room locked. He had been made to wait for two ... & Lunching Rs. 50: Natarajan, S. espied a sofa in the corridor full days in the office itself for and decided to wait. Other the mandarin to make his ap- t the same meeting, The Rs. 100: Vaidyanathan, B; Ramani, H; Deepika; Murthy, invitees to the same meeting pearance. But this time MMM AMan from Madras K.S.; Ramamoorthy, V.; Sankaraiah, K. were also there, all waiting. was wiser. He sent a colleague Musings noted that when Rs. 150: Sridharnarayanan, T. We waited and waited and instead. The idea was to spread lunch was served everyone soon the waiting began the bounty all around. was dynamism personified. Rs. 200: Nityaanand, A.D. weighing heavily on us. They rushed to pick up plates MMM proceeded to wander Conferencing ... and then forks. Why not Rs. 300: Chitra, S. about only to note that em- spoons MMM wondered. Rs. 400: Dhunjeebhoy, H.D.; Seshadri, P.S.; ployees (if you could call hese meetings resulted Then he realised. The fork Subrahmanian, P.S.; Natarajan, S.; Kumar, S.S.; them that) kept casually Tin a grand public meeting was far handier in intimidating sauntering into work, only to at a five-star hotel. This, no those who tried to compete for Bharathi Paul; Mahadevan, M.; Pillai, C.; Ganesh Pencil stop at watercoolers and on doubt, because it involved the the same dishes. MMM had Factory verandas for casual chats and top bosses from the national heard of Oliver Twist asking capital, began on time. But for more, but the average Gov- Rs. 500: Gokilan, T.S. sundry banter. None thought it necessary to make such being the bureaucratic ernment employee asks for Rs. 600: Thomas Tharu it to a desk and get on with consciousness of pecking or- more, some more and then the day’s work. der, far-too-many mandarins still more. Rs. 900: Ramachandran, S. At 11 am there was a stir. had to be accommodated on MMM, armed with a mere Rs. 1000: Brij Khandelwal MMM wondered if the high stage. They were all so tightly spoon, was last in the race. It and mighty bureaucrat had wedged in that the merest was while waiting for the arrived. It was not he. Four nudge by anyone would have crumbs from the table that men staggered in under sent those in the periphery MMM realised that the hotel MADRAS MUSINGS mounds of biscuit packets. tumbling down. Each one had had wisely avoided providing Another bore plates and a come armed with a speech. knives. After all, nobody likes ON THE WEB third carried what can only And all of them were far too to see bloodshed. Sure enough To reach out to as many readers as possible be described as a cistern of long and highly repetitive. after filling their plates, MMM coffee. These were set up on That was not all. The meet- noticed that everyone laid the who share our keen interest in Madras that is tables and, as though on cue, ing had to be conducted in the fork aside and ate with their MMM was informed by format perfected locally. hands. Chennai, and in response to requests from phone to partake of these re- Lamps had to be lit. And that This feast, straight out of many well-wishers – especially from outside freshments. That was evi- meant all those on stage had to something in the life of dently on the mind of every light one wick at least, as a Caligula, ended and the meet- Chennai and abroad who receive their postal employee in the building. consequence of which the ing resumed. Loud belches copies very late – for an online edition, Madras Abandoning all tasks (casual lamp resembled more a bon- punctuated the speeches for a chats, telephone calls to fire. The lighting of the wick while. And then came a gen- Musings is now on the web at www.madras spouse, internet browsing) was applauded as though it tler rhythmic sound. Their ef- musings.com they rushed in like the fam- were an Olympic medal. Here forts over, those that laboured ine-stricken. MMM and the again, a strong hierarchy was now rested. THE EDITOR rest of the invitees preferred followed. The national bosses to avoid adding to the crush. were applauded by the local – MMM August 16-31, 2012 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 With many thanks...

he sits in an ergonomically grist for your particular mill. No sartorial one-upmanship – but it Scorrect chair; thick jasmine idea was too small for you to is one of a kind....and now I find strands fall gracefully over one churn a column out of it, eh?” there are theatre fests, art fests, shoulder. The highlights in her “Not always,” you mumble, book releases.... quite thrilling, hair gleam, as designer-shod reflecting on all those times actually – and yes, people need feet peep from beneath the when the city sat congealed and to know when to switch off pleats of her red and yellow silent, refusing to ‘do’ anything, their cell-phones.” saree. as deadlines came closer, and You nod fervently in agree- She takes an elegant sip of The Chief’s tone went from in- ment. the latest flavour-of-the-month dulgent to sharp. All those “I’m glad you made roads offering on the menu from Cof- times when you fell back on and buildings talk,” she muses. fee-iana, while tossing seedai generalities. “Sometimes, this “Everything has a voice, you into her mouth ‘long distance’. place was as still as a sack of know. You humans must learn You approach her warily – pounded tamarind.” to listen.” she’s been known to have her You realise you’ve spoken “I like this new generation of moods. out loud when you see her huge grandparents,” she says sud- She stares at you for several eyes narrow. denly, “I quite like the way the unnerving seconds, and then “Don’t you dare use my own look of the city is growing and pronounces: “I know you. little ‘isms against me,” she evolving.” You’re the ones who presume to snaps, then grins impishly. “You “Er....the traffic...” write about me....and have been did get into trouble at times, “Driving conditions are pa- doing so for a while now.” though. Those sniping letters thetic, no question,” she cuts in, kids...none of them similar. But poo, the navarathri dolls on You swallow hard, then every now and then. You “You know, to use a phrase from that’s half the fun – a colourful Mada Veedhi, pattu podavais, stammer: “Er...yes...and...er... should have seen the expression my all-time-favourite Madras family with a variety of charac- temple streets, sundal on the we thought we should come and on your face whenever that Bashai, darting in with verbal ters, all jostling to co-exist. How beach, the idli-kadais, the heaps formally thank you....” happened.” repartee in a ‘cycle-gap’ in a boring life would be otherwise.” of kumkum and turmeric, the “For what?” She throws her head back conversation is smart – doing “You’re okay with change, heritage buildings... I have to “For giving us the stories; for and laughs heartily. the same thing with a vehicle on then?” say I’m thrilled over how well playing along...” “Of course I’m okay with it. I both my personalities are show- She grins. have never been scared of cased all the time.” “‘Playing along’, eh?” She change. Or overly resistant. She straightens in her chair. gives you a quizzical look. “I’ve ...from Ranjitha Ashok That’s just a myth other cities She is both ‘Grand’ and ‘Old’ noticed you call me the ‘Grand cited so often – it became a ste- – and needs her rest, you realise. Old Lady’ every time my Week and Biswajit reotype, a truism. At 373 years, You get to your feet. comes around ...” I still want to learn. I’m eager “Thank you, Ma’am – for “Oh, only in the deepest, You bite your lip, chagrined. the road is just plain arrogant for new ideas. But - I’ve always giving us the stories,” you re- most respectful sense...” you as- “Who’d have imagined such stupidity. Lawlessness, constant believed in keeping things in peat. sure her hastily. innocuous stuff could provoke horning – and CCTVs...really? perspective. She smiles. She takes another dainty sip, so much irritation?” you mutter. You guys need CCTVs to stay “Remember how they called “The stories will never run and observes: “You know, the “Humour can be danger- in line? Whatever happened to me ‘a city of balance and mod- out, you know. You’ll be very first column in your series, ous.” She now smiles kindly, an interior sense of right and eration’ at some study three back....” and the last one, at the begin- coaxing a smile out of you in wrong? And could we have less years ago? Then, she’s gone. ning of this month, were on the spite of yourself, “....and easily cables criss-crossing the “I also accept, and have the All that’s left is a lingering same subject – roads. Planned misunderstood.” city....sometimes I feel so courage to reflect, all of my sense of jasmine in the air. or coincidence?” There is a brief silence as she trussed up – I can’t breathe.” history...that’s what the ageing As you prepare to leave, you “Coincidence,” you answer, seems to brood on something. There is a small silence. process is all about. Which is think to yourself: Nice. taken aback, having only just “Mosquitoes,” she says sud- “Food seems to be big busi- why I can’t understand this Nice – to have been gifted a realised this yourself. denly, making you jump. “You ness. Does anyone cook at angst-y attitude towards the decade and more of dealing “So much whining about made it sound as if the whole home any more?” she shoots a past. All this ‘touchiness’ about with a Lady who wears both her roads over the years,” she city is just one big cloud of glance at you, “I notice there everything, especially by those personalities with such élan – frowns, “and the weather....so pests.....” are some strange variations in who claim to speak for me.” who, above everything else, has many barbs over something “Er.... fact, Ma’am.” yellai sapaad these days. Some “And when Change does that best of all qualities – a even I can’t help....” “I’ll tell you what causes a things – you leave alone. Better, get too much for you...?” sense of humour. “We never meant....” you try constant buzz in your head,” she no? I’m okay with the changing She smiles. It’s been...amusing. to interrupt, but she sweeps you states. “It’s all those wires all of face of food though – as long as “Ah, when that happens... aside, and when the Grand Old you have dangling from your you can still get thayir sadam all I have to do is disappear into Ranjitha Ashok Lady makes a sweeping gesture ears all the time. Were people when you need it.” the sabhas, gaana-paatu, malli- says farewell and – you stay swept, and silenced. meant to be so connected 24/7? “Did you know names have we are not a-mused She takes one more sip of I don’t think so.” She glances at a shelf life too?” she goes on, “I coffee and peers into the trendy you from under her lids and hear parents using a whole new CHENNAI HERITAGE cup. smiles playfully. crop of names these days. Street “Amazing – look what “You people really love pass- names, house and telephone No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, they’ve done to coffee. Very in- words, don’t you? I wonder numbers, they become defunct , Chennai 600 014 timidating – all this latte art and what I would use? ‘Patinam’?” too – and names on old sign- she grins, then goes on, “All boards.” I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / fancy names. And yet I notice I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. the davara tumbler is still going those digs about those who love “Anything that saddens strong. I like that.” sports, and the....what was that you, Ma’am?” G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) She glances at you. word? Oh yes: ‘Un-sports’. “Quiet dignity seems to be payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the “Did you have to do piece Well, I’m a sports-loving entity becoming an outdated concept. year 2012-13. after piece on garbage?” myself. Except cricket’s gone a And all this ‘security’....you G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment and a better city that We try to look contrite. bit strange these days....I re- guys can’t even go to a movie Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an additional “People just don’t get it,” she member – back then...,” her without being checked.... what Rs...... says, “fancy pick-up vehicles voice trails away. sort of world have you be- (Rupees ...... ) Please keep / put me on your mailing list. and uniformed personnel can’t She flicks her jasmine queathed to your children?” Name : ...... compensate for lousy civic strands back. You gently change the sub- Address: ...... “I am proud of how cultur- ject. sense.” ...... “Which was what we were ally alive we are, you know. “What are your favourite trying to....” you trail away at Sure, the December Season has spots in the city, Ma’am?” ...... her expression. its own subterranean agendas – “I can’t say....each area de- “Well,” she smiles grimly, ‘tiffin’ (now that word brings velops its own personality, you Note: Overseas postage Rs. 550/year extra. Cheques for overseas postage alone payable back memories), groom/bride- know. Makes me feel like a to M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd. All other cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. “you guys certainly mined the DD/Cheque should be sent by Speed Post only. city for stories. Everything was hunting, the NRI invasion and mother with a huge brood of 4 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2012

G Vincent D’Souza’s thoughts A thought from Singapore for Madras Week in time for Madras Week Do your bit for Blog... Blog... Blog... the city... heralding your heritage n interesting production is on the cards at AMM Matric A School in . Well-known dancer Nirupama Nithyanandan, who grew up s a harbinger to the ‘moon glasses’ are. I also cover “Nostalgia is not negative, and learnt classical dance in our city, and then moved to France to A Singapore Heritage Fest the clubbing scene, and even it’s very positive. Nostalgia is learn and perform, and is now an international artiste, is leading 2012 (in late July), a group of the food scene.” personal history and pictures this project at the school. bloggers will be giving a talk tell stories. I think it’s really V.R. Devika of Aseema Trust broached the idea after she Adds writer Yu-Mei Balasin- about Singapore heritage and good for seniors as well as watched Nirupuma lead a project while working with senior gamchow, 38, who co-wrote the what it means to blog about this youth,” he said. “I think it’s im- school students in France. book Singapore: A Biography and heritage. Called ‘Past Forward: A portant to know about our heri- The duo are trying to get the teenagers at AMM express them- is moderating the talk: “Heri- selves on the theme of ‘Cosmopolitian Chennai’. Heritage Blogging and Social tage, to know who we are. We tage is sometimes overlooked Where are you from and what brought you to this city? What Media Workshop’, several came from kampongs. We need and taken for granted, but are the influences that the city has had on you and what have you bloggers both young and old will to know our identity. I think a (thanks to the bloggers) when assimilated and what have you bypassed? Who are your friends be sharing their experiences lot of us don’t realise who we you see it described or in a pho- and neighbours and how do you relate to them? about maintaining blogs that are. Since we have also set the ball rolling for the 2012 edition of tograph, you can make the con- deal with Singapore’s heritage, “Madras Week” celebrations which celebrate the founding of the nection. It could be right in “There is a line from John whether it be music, movies, city and all that it stands for, we are hoping that Nirupuma’s work Fowls, who wrote The Magus, food or just general knowledge. at AMM can be staged at a few venues later in August. which says, ‘we will never know At one level, /Week (www.themadrasday.in) is One of the speakers is Andy ourselves if we don’t know our about events. At another level it may also set the tone for some- G by thing more substantial. Lim, who used to sing with popu- past’. Our present is our past.” lar 1960s Singapore pop band. Nirupama’s effort is in that direction. Christopher Toh Agreed Balasingamchow: He says “to bring the knowledge There are others too. “We might not like to think so, of our heritage to the youth of Writings on the city have begun to get published. The city has but I believe that everything we been the stage for a few books of fiction and non-fiction. A book Singapore is why I started the think, do and say is a result of titled Chennaivasi has just been launched. Bishwanath Ghosh’s blog.” Tamarind City was published some months ago. our upbringing, our past, which A few music bands have over the years composed songs with Although the 72-year-old front of you, but you never no- shapes who we are today.” – threads based on the city, its life and its idiosyncracies. A compila- retiree’s blog centres on music, ticed it. Then when people (Courtesy: Today, Singapore.) tion of these songs and some fresh ones on a CD sponsored by a Lim says that he wanted his blog point it out, you take notice of city-based business would make a nice gift or a memento. to be a little different. “It’s more it.” Elesware, a script is being readied for a short film on an Anglo- about the scene in those years, SUBSCRIPTIONS & For Lim, he said that he Indian family of Madras. not just the music,” says the re- hoped the talk will inspire not CONTRIBUTIONS There is also an increasing volume of photographs on this city. tired teacher. “For example, I only younger Singaporeans, but Since Volume XIV, No.1 (April They remain on Flickr or in Seagate hard drives. Perhaps, it is talk about these ‘moon glasses’ – time to collate them for coffee table books or direct them to online older ones as well. 16, 2003), Madras Musings has a lot of people don’t know what been priced at Rs.5 a copy, data banks. ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Perhaps this is the time for you and your group to do your bit Rs.100/-. Please make out your for the city. cheque only to CHENNAI HERI- TAGE and send it, together with the COUPON, to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, ...& do a destination or two yourself Chennai 600 014 or C/O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS PVT. LTD., 62/63, here are many interesting destinations people of the city you approached Kathipara roundabout in and the space GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI 600 Tare still to explore though some of us take these for you swing past on your way to the airports. 006. granted. An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION Choose to do this on a Sunday morning when the world is of just Rs.100 covers only a part On my list is a trip to the hill which we all know as Saint happy to laze at home. If you are driving down, enter the area of our costs. Corporate support Thomas Mount. The hill which greeted you not so long ago as from the Garrison Church side and not from the Butt Road and YOUR support will continue end, the road that leads you to , and to be essential for Chennai Heri- tage and Madras Musings to Bangalore. play a greater role in creating If you take my suggestion, then crawl at the foothills, or pause awareness about the city, its heritage and its environment. OUR ADDRESSES to take a closer look. The church, the English-era bungalows . . . We therefore look forward to some in good shape, some crumbling. . . this was the area where your sending us your contribu- For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt the British set up a Cantonment outside the Fort when the latter tions IN ADDITION TO your got a tad crowded. subscriptions. of receipts etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, If in the coming year Chennai Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 14. Swing past the gate of the OTA (Officers’ Training Academy) Heritage receives repeated to approach the hill from its western side. The road can take your support from those of you who Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the car or bike but a walk is recommended. You may huff and puff have already made contribu- doing this but the sights of the city at various levels are special. tions, and if many more support- editor can be sent via email to [email protected]. ers join the bandwagon, we will Those who wish to intimate change of address can also do Besides the heritage church atop the hill, where Christians not only be able to keep Madras Musings going, but also be able so provided the subscription number is quoted. 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For several generations of newspaper readers in the South, G Two at the top his column was the major source of information on corpo- Musing on rate performance. Though Seshan retired officially in 1997, A champion he continued to write an occa- an accountant’s sional column under his Leo’s News & Notes. of economic The extensive coverage of world corporate news provided by . Narayanaswamy’s autobiography is a Seshan helped in the copious Beyond Auditing page-turner. It’s a gripping story of an impoverished flow of corporate ads. Seshan G Kumbakonam boy who goes on to become a highly influential journalism also produced Survey chartered accountant and public figure. of Indian Industry as an annual he Hindu recently organi- publication. For this, he per- GN tells his story like a true accountant. Without a trace of sed a function to felicitate T suaded a wide range of business hyperbole! The words are so matter-of-fact, yet they evoke emo- the Bhishma Pitamaha of finan- leaders and executives from the tions that strike at the very root of the soul. cial journalism, P.A. Seshan th corporate sector to write on (Leo), on his entering his 100 their sectors and on their com- Those who have interacted with him are aware of his direct year. panies. These write-ups pro- and frank manner of talking to people and this is perhaps the best aspect of his book. He is frank, forthright and on target In The Hindu dated July 8, vided information on the per- when he airs his views, whether it’s about his mother pondering 2012, P.A Seshan’s (Leo) News formance of industry. about her milk business or his views on the real-politik in the & Notes on the economy ap- Maintaining close relations 1950s. GN has been politically active too; his association with peared. So what’s the big deal? with Chambers of Commerce, the Swatantra Party in general and Rajaji in particular is one of Well, Seshan is 99 years old and Seshan helped them produce the highlights of the book. GN has allowed us a glimpse of an has been writing in the paper for special issues for seminars. I re- era gone by. 60 years! P.A. Seshan. member one such issue he GN has always been a sea- Seshan cut his teeth in jour- helped produce for the ture into a publication with soned master of his game, and nalism at Indian Finance, Hindustan Chamber of Com- wider coverage of the economy, his musings about his clients Calcutta, where his uncle, P.R. merce. T.S. Narayanaswamy I discussed the project with and their regard for their audi- Srinivas, was the Editor. In then headed the Chamber. Seshan and received tons of tor may look odd today, when 1957, Seshan shifted to Madras HCC’s dynamic secretary G.V. guidance. He introduced me to tax laws aren’t as draconian and joined The Hindu and Rao and his colleague S.B. P.R. Srinivas who joined our and complicated as they were. worked for them for the next 37 Prabhakar Rao worked closely editorial team and worked with His countless parries with In- years. with Seshan to produce The us for the next ten years till he come tax Officers appear like breathed his last Well-known Progressive Madras State that re- Seshan focussed on covering mained for long a reference a thing of the past; e-filing, corporate performance. He suf- cartoonist, Thanu, drew car- e-processing and all things toons for the wrapper and inside book for the development of the fered a serious handicap: he was electronic have eaten into pages. State’s economy. near blind. That said, he had a that part of the interface with phenomenal capacity to absorb Those days, the business Deeply religious and the friendly neighborhood information conveyed to him leaders of Chennai shunned attached to the Maha Sanni- taxman. orally. He established close con- dhanam of the Sankaracharya publicity. I could discern two In a profession where nam- tacts with the new generation of of Sringeri. Seshan has been G. Narayanaswamy specific traits: when the com- ing clients, talking about the entrepreneurs. He was liberal in supporting a number of social pany did well, they were con- system or even the world at large is taboo, here is a man who writing about companies, big activities in his Palamadai cerned about the evil eye and boldly treads his past with a certain style and clarity that makes and small. In quick time, he be- village. desisted from speaking about you ponder whether GN was merely looking beyond auditing, or came to the business commu- their profits. Obviously, they I am indeed happy that this was there something more subtle for all of humanity here? nity the face of The Hindu. would not want to speak when Tendulkar of economic journal- their company was not perform- This is a veritable chronicle of our times and a vital docu- I came into contact with ism is getting ready to hit a cen- ing well. They were content be- ment that historians in future will rely on to get a better under- Seshan in the mid-1960s. I was tury. These days, such loyalty ing noticed by The Hindu. standing of the events described by GN from first-hand experi- then editing Mobile, a transport and long tenure of dedicated Seshan provided us access to ence. (Courtesy: Industrial Economist) monthly, and Trade Wheel, a bi- service is a rarity. (Courtesy: In- monthly on two-wheelers. In annual reports of companies dustrial Economist) 1967, when I decided to ven- and guided us on their cover- – S. Srikanth age. –S. Viswanathan READABILITY PLEASE sea mine in the Indian Ocean Sardar Patel Road, is the palace that could produce more than of which South Indian royal fam- Dear Readers, $300 million worth of minerals a ily? As letters from readers increase, year? 15. The Kuppam School, set up we are receiving more and more 9. Name the latest iteration of by Sister Subbalakshmi, is now hand written letters, many of Apple’s OS X launched on July called...? them in a hand so small and 25th. 16. Which Taluk in Chennai illegible or large and scrawled as 10. Name the author of Narco- Collectorate has the most num- to be unreadable. Often this polis that has been put on the ber of villages (15)? Booker Prize long-list. leads to our discarding a letter, 17. Which famous institution particularly if some part of it is * * * stands on the old site of the Monegar Choultry established in unreadable. 4. Who carried the Indian flag 11. Name the Director of the (Current Affairs questions are 1782? If you wish us to consider your from the period July 16th to during the Opening Ceremony of Krishnagiri-based NGO Inte- grated Village Development letter for publication, please type 31st. Questions 11 to 20 per- the London Olympic Games? 18. Which town in Theni District Programme who has been 5. On July 18th, which Asian was did Pandit Nehru call ‘South it with enough space between tain to Chennai and Tamil awarded the Ramon Magsaysay Nadu.) officially announced the Supreme Kashmir’ because of the weather lines or write it using a medium Award this year. and natural beauty? 1. On July 22nd, Bradley Wiggins Leader of his country, a post that hand, clearly dotting the ‘i-s’ and 12. Who wrote Thembavani (The became the first Briton to win he has occupied de facto since his 19. With respect to Geographic crossing the ‘t-s’. Unfading Garland), an extra- which prestigious event in its 99- father's death? Indications, which places are for Many readers also try to fill ordinary epic poem that is 3615 year history? 6. Name the first American fe- jamakkalam and sungudi? every square centimetre of a stanzas long? 2. Larissa Latynina’s 48-year-old male astronaut, and third overall, 20. Who collected the Tiruvay- postcard space, making reading 13. Name the temple in the me- mark was erased on July 31st. who died recently of pancreatic moli, one of the Divya tropolis where Ramalinga or editing impossible. What record and by whom? cancer. Prabandhams? Swamigal sang of “charitable Please help us to consider your 7. What is ‘Me The Musical’ 3. What symbol has Twitter in- Chennai”. letters more favourably by mak- troduced for users to click on launched on Facebook all about? 14. Ramalayam, which stands at ing them more legible for us. stock symbols and see related 8. Which Asian nation has won the corner of Besant Avenue and – THE EDITOR tweets as a way? exclusive rights to exploit a deep- (Answers on page 8) 8 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2012

Krishna also owes much to the Madras that is Chennai – in today’s writing mathematical precision of the American sitcoms in drawing guffaws. Travel writer Bill Bryson and humorist Dave A boy in the 1970s Barry have been later inspira- tions. Closer home, apart from his family, he greatly respects Ashokamitran. In later years, as creating his own fun he began to draw, he started putting himself in the shoes of rishna Shastri Devulapalli, References to places in the Mahabalipuram. There were the writers. Toying with the KKrishna or KSD for short, city are woven into the narra- also Anand and Little Anand, idea for a major original effort has spent most of his life in the tive as Gopi’s father is a regular Devi and her three sisters, and (he has retold many Indian good old Madras of the 1960s at the Race Course in Guindy the venerable Casino. Off children’s stories) from the late and onwards and continues to on weekends. Mother who, on Mount Road was the then new 1990s, he sat down to write it in do so after it became Chennai and off, rides different hobby Satyam complex, and Midland late 2007 and the book was re- in the 1990s. Based on his life horses like embroidery, cookery and Leo a little further away. leased late last year. Asked to and times in this city is a trilogy and doll-making, goes shopping There’s passing mention of compare illustrating with writ- of fiction he plans to write. The to the markets of George Town. and Burma Bazaar ing, Krishna says, “The funny K.S.D first of the books, Ice Boys in Bell And Gopi’s grandfather finally and, not to forget, a film studio thing is most drawing begin as been predictable, with bunga- Bottoms, came out last year. agrees to write a song for in with its toy words or a description in your With a poet-grandfather and ‘Telugu Terence Hill’, Kalyan bridge, artifical streams and lows and trees giving way to head and most writing begins matchbox flats and flyovers. an illustrator-and-writer father, Babu’s hit copies of Westerns man-made ponds. There’s also with an image. While I drew KSD, just by watching them in where a Telugu-speaking cow- the French and Tamil side of Development claiming its indi- pictures with lines earlier, I am viduality is true of other cities action, took to cartooning, il- boy is visualised riding the Pondicherry where Gopi and his doing it with words now.” lustrating and graphic designing hills. Influenced by classmates go on a rather out- too. But Chennai has its Krishna acknowledges that beaches, its saving grace against pretty much like a duck takes to his father’s craze for the ‘golden of-the-ordinary school excur- being married to Chitra, a water. Grandfather was a age’ of Hollywood, Gopi buses sion. claustrophobia, and anytime he writer herself and editor to feels boxed in, all he has to do is Telugu poet and lyricist, a leg- to the three-km-long entertain- Gopi, the narrator of the boot, is the reason the book has end of his time, Devulapalli book, is a boy of his times, and stand on the Marina, and he taken the shape it has done. knows the world is out there. Krishna Shastri. His father is Krishna hardly sees one in the The reception of the book, says D.S. Sastri, popularly known as G by T.K. Srinivasa boys of today, what with Krishna, has been “affection- Bujjai. They lived for more than Chari younger generations wising up ate”. The young and old alike 25 years in the 1960s and 1970s to the world, having lost their have been communicating their Answers to in the T’Nagar of capacious sense of innocence and waiting. responses, particularly men- Quiz bungalows and avenue trees. Though every generation tioning the humour quotient of There, Krishna’s creative fam- ment district of Mount Road, thinks theirs is the best, Krishna the book. A woman-turned 1. Tour de France; 2. Winning ily, comprising grandparents, from Gemini Flyover to India feels today’s environment kills friend left him a complimentary most Olympic medals. Michael parents and his two sisters, rev- Silk House, twice a month. the imagination of boys. They letter in his neighbourhood Phelps won his 19th medal on that elled in Madras, then an exten- With a princely sum of five ru- have been handed over a tem- bookshop. And, of course, the day; 3. The $ symbol; 4. Wrestler sion of the Telugu film industry. pees in his pocket, Gopi plans plate of professionalism by their ultimate compliment: the pub- Sushil Kumar; 5. Kim Jong-un of A delightful mix of fiction the trip to the last paisa: parents. As a boy in the 1970s, lishers are ready for reprint. North Korea; 6. Sally Ride; 7. Launched by Intel, it creates a and autobiography, Krishna’s Rs. 2.90 for the ticket, 60 paise the world was his playground His next book is not the sec- Ice Boys in Bell Bottoms is for to-and-fro transport, and and he and his contemporaries personalised animated movie ond in the trilogy (Rally Days & which takes FB users on an enter- peopled by some of these char- the remaining Rs. 1.50 for eats could create their own pas- Disco Nights) but a thriller set in during the intermission. taining journey, via song and acters marvellously etched out. times, unlike today’s generation the Tamil film industry to be dance, through world events; 8. With no room for monotony, The book recalls that before which has pre-digested stuff. called Jump Cut. A writer, ac- South Korea; 9. Mountain Lion; daily happenings transform into the word multiplex was in- Early in life, Krishna learnt cording to Krishna, is someone 10. Jeet Thayil. dramatic situations. While the vented, Madras had its Vee- drawing watching his father who, first and foremost, tells a * * * book is set in the T’Nagar cumsee Complex with its three bring alive comic books. His good old-fashioned story, then 11. Kulandei Francis; 12. Krishna grew up in, the appeal gems, Safire, Blue Diamond and father’s studio was an inviting aims at getting the reader to say, Viramamunivar; 13. Kandar of the stylishly told rambunc- Emerald, the last-named show- training ground for him to ulti- ‘Wow, that’s exactly how I feel’ Kottam; 14. The Travancore fam- tious novel is universal, bring- ing only Hindi movies. Under- mately learn the art and craft of ily; 15. Lady Willingdon High or ‘Man, I wish I’d said that.’ School; 16. -Guindy; ing smiles on the faces of not ground was its discotheque, storytelling. His other reading Looking at the Madras of necessarily only those who Nine Gems, and the office of influences were the absorbing 17. ; 18. then and Chennai of today, Bodinayakanur; 19. Bhavani and swear by Madras and its sights Silversands, the Caribbean- pulp fiction of James Hadley Krishna says the change has Madurai; 20. Nammalwar. and sounds. style beach resort in Chase and Mickey Spillane.

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiah for ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No.Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 andChennai printed 600 by014, T printedJ George by T atJ George Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt.Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.