Barolo Chinato Green Walnuts and the Witches

N. 3 | FEBRUARY 2016 SUPPLEMENT OF BARTALES

CULT AROMATIC WINES BAROLO CHINATO

LIQUID STORY / ON THE SLOPES OF MT. VESUVIUS COCKTAIL STORY / BARRACUDA GREEN WALNUTS AND THAT DRINK THE WITCHES’ SABBATH UPON THE OCEAN

ZOOM / FRUIT BAR STORY / STEVE CRANE FRUIT COCKTAIL MIXES JOE'S KON-TIKI

BAR EDITORIAL by Melania Guida TALES

GOLDEN TIMES

t was a time when ships were five-star hotels. Linen sheets were changed every day, and fresh fruit was served on silver platters. So far removed from jukebox ships and frozen foods. I It was the era of the “Michelangelo”, one of the most beautiful cruise liners. Those who boarded the ship knew that they were among the most famous jet setters – Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, Alberto Sordi and Renata Tebaldi, for example – who were making the most of that social publicity that would make all the difference. It was a time when a bottle of Dom Perignon cost $8, and a cocktail just 60 cents. On board the “Michelangelo” was Benito Cuppari (see page 20), head barman, who designed the seven bars of the transatlantic cruise liner together with a team of architects and interior designers. On his ‘bridge’, the Bar Nero, he came up with the cocktail that would bring him fame: the Barracuda, a perfect combination of balance and creativity. It was the golden era of bartending, when discretion and sobriety were non-negotiable. It was a time when 1,500 cocktails had to be prepared in an hour and 15 minutes. It was the era of Californian millionaires – Cuppari recalls – of vicepresidents of banks and big companies who were quite able to spend entire nights gambling and drinking. At dawn, the crew would heat up the pool to 28 degrees, and then followed the last swimming session. At 6.30am omelettes and champagne would be served. And at 7.30am the guests would all head off to sleep. Different times.

N. 3 | FEBRUARY 2016

executive editor digital edition by Melania Guida Dinamica Digitale srl ([email protected]) ([email protected]) staff editor Fabio Bacchi Registrazione. n. 35 del 8/7/2013 Tribunale di Napoli ([email protected]) www.bartales.it art director Cinzia Marotta © copyright BARTALES - Tutti i diritti sono riservati. Nessuna ([email protected]) parte di questa pubblicazione può essere riprodotta. Ogni violazione sarà perseguita a norma di legge. contributors Dario D'Avino, Luca Di Francia, Anyone with a claim on the copyright of unidentified Luca Rapetti, Gianni Zottola pictures please contact Bartales

translation by LMP International - Lonato (BS) Italy DRINK RESPONSIBLY

February 2016 3 cult AROMATIC WINES

BAROLO CHINATO Piedmont excellence makes a comeback BY LUCA DI FRANCIA

group of aromatic wines that are zying success that over the years would making a comeback onto the in- be perfected more and more. In this way, ternational mixing scene are the it was able to distance itself from the un- cinchona (chinati) wines. Baro- balanced connotation of wines consumed lo,A Barbera and Vermouth make up this in ancient Rome, flavoured with rosemary group. or thyme, or the Mariani wines, obtained Barolo Chinato, an eclectic and through cold infusion of coca leaves and far-reaching representative of Pied mont extracts from herbs and spices into a excellence, is today, like never before, base wine from Bordeaux. able to meet the needs of international It was thus due to a need for growth barmen. The term Barolo Chinato can on- and change that led Giuseppe Cappellano ly be used by those aromatic wines that of Serralunga and Mario Zabaldano from use Barolo DOCG as a base, without the Monforte D’Alba, two pharmacists from addition of must or other wines, and its Piedmont, to develop the Barolo Chinato. aroma must remind one of cinchona. They bore a long and patient period of tri- During the second half of the 19th cen- als, experimentation and tastings, adding tury, Piedmont was the national point of and removing herbs and spices to Barolo, reference with regard to the wine and spir- a wine that at the time was receiving great its sectors. Canelli was the godfather of acclaim in markets around the world. It Italian sparkling wine, and when it came was around 1890 that the Barolo Chinato to aromatic wines, Vermouth reached diz- Zabaldano was awarded a gold medal at

4 February 2016 the 1899 Franco-Italian Expo in Nice. great demand among Italians for the so- In the years that followed, other Barolo called “pharmacist wines”, or medicinal producers started adding aromatics to it, wines, tonics, cordials or digestive aper- among whom were Giacomo Borgogno of itifs, provided they offered medicinal or Barolo and Giulio Cocchi from Asti, whose health benefits. letterhead read “producer of Barolo Chi- But how was Barolo Chinato born? As nato”. This was a time when there was already mentioned, it cannot be labelled

February 2016 5 INNOVATORS JULIETTE VICTURINE COLBERT DE MONT LEVRIER AND MARQUIS CARLO FALLETTI TANCREDI OF BAROLO. BELOW THE SPICES USED TO PRODUCE BAROLO CHINATO AND AN EXAMPLE OF CINCHONA CALISAYA.

as such unless it is produced with Barolo Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, the mayor as a base. Powerful, robust and majestic, of Grinzane (Cuneo), to produce a wine of made from the Nebbiolo variety of grapes, great stature and that represented the Barolo was born thanks to Giulia of Barolo, region at its best. that is, Juliette Victurine Colbert de Mont In order to obtain Barolo Chinato, Levrier, who married Carlo Falletti Tancre- the base wine must be clarified by add- di from Barolo. He was a marquis who ing gelatine or albumen, which makes it asked Frenchman, Louis Oudart of Reims, more stable and smoother. Next, sugar is a well-known oenologist who worked for added to the wine using special shakers

6 February 2016 PRODUCERS VINTAGE PHOTOS OF THE to dissolve it. At this point, and the solution is continu- COCCHI BUSINESS. ethanol is added (general- ously pumped so that the ABOVE, THE ly from sugar beet), and active ingredients are ex- HISTORIC BAR. the mixture is pumped tracted consistently and in special steel vats. effectively. The spices Thereafter the various that are most common- herbs and spices are ly used are: star anise, added as selected by citrus peels, cinnamon, the manufacturer, based angelica, cloves, vanilla, on the final product that cardamom, rhubarb and they want to achieve. others, although each pro- The key element is the cinchona ducer has their own special com- – the Calisaya, Soccimano and Succirubra bination. varieties are used – but Calisaya is the The infusion that is obtained, or infu- most widespread and commonly used. sions (since usually more than one infu- The choice of medicinal herbs and spices sion is created separately with various is not an easy one, because extraction percentages of alcohol) are channelled time of the active ingredients is variable. into a single preparation tank, and then They can be divided into herbs that are mixed together with the Barolo base to bitter, aromatic and bitter-aromatic. It is add the aromatics. A few months of ag- therefore an arduous and meticulous task ing (more often than not in oak barrels) that of balancing the various medicinal is followed by the final phases, that is, herbs so that equilibrium is achieved, filtration and bottling. avoiding dominant flavours and aromatic Among the various contemporary pro- notes that are not complex and invasive. ducers, we call to mind Giulio Cocchi, who Usually, herbs and spices are made to thanks to his recipe, was central in the marinate in 50% hydro-alcoholic solutions spread of Barolo Chinato.

February 2016 7 fame in a short space of time. His entrepreneurial acumen, which was rather unique at the time, pushed him to open authorised retail outlets where he distributed and sold these products. By 1913 Giulio Cocchi had opened seven Cocchi Vermouth retail stores, soon growing into twelve outlets. During the Parisian “Belle Époque” Giulio Cocchi was a young Florentine and the Italian futurist period, the Cocchi pastry chef, who in the last years of the brand gathered around it a group of enthu- 1800s moved to Asti. Here Giulio Cocchi siastic consumers among the intelligen- discovered the widespread local trend tsia of the time, and it soon turned into of adding flavours to wines with herbs a product for connoisseurs. The Cocchi and spices. In 1891 he started his own brand and products soon became famous business and worked on the recipes of around the world. It was exported to all certain aromatic wines; Barolo Chinato, continents, thanks also to the European the well-known “Aperitivo Americano” and presence during the colonialist period. various types of Vermouth. He established Since 1978, the Giulio Cocchi business “Bar Cocchi” and achieved success and has been owned by the Bava family, well-

8 February 2016 BRAND ON THESE PAGES, OTHER VINTAGE PHOTOS OF THE COCCHI BUSINESS. TO THE RIGHT, ROBERTO BAVA. BELOW, NEBBIOLO GRAPES FROM LANGHE.

known wine producers in Monferrato and Together with other entrepreneurs, the Langa. A targeted production modernisa- business has played an active role in re- tion process and clever strategies regard- opening the historic Cocchi Bar in the city ing its brand identity have placed Cocchi of Asti. products in the most famous bars in the After enjoying a certain degree of inter- world, turning the brand into a real cult est, and together with the farming crisis, product within international bartending. Barolo Chinato was placed under pressure This notwithstanding the fact that it has following the war between the fifties and maintained its craftsmanship’s charm seventies. The Ceretto family appreciated and traditional techniques, which helped its importance and was among the pro- Cocchi become famous throughout the tagonists of the product’s revival in the world. The recipes, which have remained eighties. When mention is made of Cer- unchanged, are testimony of the style and etto, it immediately brings to mind high taste that were used as a benchmark. quality Langhe, Barolo and Barbaresco.

February 2016 9 The Ceretto Barolo Chinato ages for about But the common thread running through six months in wooden barrels. The spiced all these products is the cinchona, of notes and aromas of the essences (about great interest from a liqueur and herbal a dozen in total, from the Langhe region) point of view. Its value is found in its eu- mix with the bouquet of the wine, which peptic properties and unmistakable bitter can still be identified. On the tongue, it is notes that makes any alcoholic drink very a real triumph of flavours with a long and unique, evoking great interest among both pleasantly bitter aftertaste. Barbera Chi- liqueur producers and competent barmen. nato is produced using the same process The complexity that Barolo Chinato as Barolo Chinato, starting from a base offers when mixing , its notes that are wine made from Barbera grapes. continuously evolving, the lasting effect Adding aromatics to Vermouth was and persistence of the flavour, provides already widely practiced during the last extreme personalisation that all bartend- century and Arnaldo Strucchi is testimony ers aspire to when revisiting the great of this. In his monograph on the 1907 Ver- classics while constantly searching for mouth of Turin, he meticulously described that balancing point in every recipe: that the manufacturing process, where he al- equilibrium that turns a great recipe into so made mention of special Vermouths an architectural masterpiece of taste. flavoured with vanilla, Marsala, herb ex- Today Barolo is one of the kings of tracts, as well as a certain Vermouth with wine; Carlo Falletti Tancredi was the last Garus, that is, an alcohol obtained by mar- Marquis of Barolo and Barolo Chinato is inating mace alcohol, Ceylon cinnamon, enjoying is second youth. Tonka beans and saffron. Luca Di Francia

10 February 2016 BAROLO CHINATO RECIPES

CHINATO COBBLER by Riccardo Semeria gentian sugar, the Barolo Chinato, the rhubarb bitters; The Fumoir Bar – Claridge’s – London mix with a bar spoon. Add the chilled spumante. Glass: flute. Garnish: orange zest INGREDIENTS - 60ml Alessandria Barolo Chinato - 30ml Baladin Super Bitter FARMACISTA PIEMONTESE - 20ml berries cordial* by Matteo Rebuffo - 2 lemon wedges Le Rouge – Genoa - 2 orange wedges - 3 drops of Bob’s Liquorice bitters INGREDIENTS (floating) - 50ml Terre del Barolo Barolo Chinato Method: Crush the lemon and orange in a - 20ml Cengio (Origin) Green Mint Liqueur shaker, add the other ingredients, except - 2 drops of lemon bitters the bitters and shake. Glass: wine glass. Method: stir & strain. Glass: Martini glass Ice: crushed. Garnish: sprig of mint, Garnish: lemon rind wrapped around a berries and a sprinkling of ground nutmeg. mint leaf *To make the cordial: macerate the rind of three lemons and two oranges in 200g of sugar for three hours. Then add 100g raspberries, 100g blackberries, 100g prunes, 100g strawberries DOLCE INCHINO by Luca Rapetti and 75ml of red wine vinegar. The Library Bar at The Lanesborough Hotel London MY BENTLEY by Gianluca Manolio INGREDIENTS Speakeasy – Bari - 45ml Grappa di Nebbiolo - 15ml Cappellano Barolo Chinato INGREDIENTS - 15ml red bush and prickly pear syrup - 30ml Calvados Dupont - 3 drops of cardamom bitters - 30ml Michele Chiarlo Barolo Chinato Method: mixin’ glass. Glass: coupette with - 3 bsp pink lady apple shrub and chunk of ice. Garnish: sprig of rosemary aniseed (with honey flavoured barrel and a slice of dried orange apple cider vinegar) - 2.5ml Peychaud’s bitters Method: shaker – double strain. Glass: AMBASSADOR by Nicola Ruggiero flute. Garnish: orange peel on the side Katiuscia Cocktail Bar – Bari INGREDIENTS JUBILEE by Luca Rossi - 1.1/2 oz N3 London Dry Gin infused with Muà Lounge – Genoa red fruits - 1 oz Ceretto Barolo Chinato INGREDIENTS - 1/4 oz Bergamotto Quaglia - 1 tsp gentian flavoured sugar - 1/2 oz ruby grapefruit juice - 30ml Barale Barolo Chinato - 1 tsp ginseng sugar - 5/6 drops rhubarb bitters - 1 dash black walnut bitters - Spumante Bianc’ d Bianc Alta Langa Method: shake and double strain DOCG Cocchi Glass: short tumbler. Garnish: grapefruit Method: Build. In a chilled glass, pour the zest and a lemon leaf

February 2016 11 BAROLO CHINATO RECIPES

SUIT & TIE by Michele Garofalo - 30ml Oude 5 Graan Jenever Jerry Thomas Speakeasy – Rome - 5ml Benedectine - 2.5ml Pedro Ximenez Sherry Ximenez Spinola INGREDIENTS - 1 dash home-made walnut bitters - 25ml Camus VSOP Elegance Method: stir & strain. Glass: cocktail glass. Garnish: - 25ml Myers’s Jamaican Rum none - 25ml Italian sweet Vermouth - 25ml Barolo Chinato Cocchi IL BARONE by Salvatore Tafuri - 6 dashes J.T.P Bitter Cafè at The Standard East Village – New York Mix (orange, coffee, chocolate). Method: stir & strain. Glass: coupette powdered INGREDIENTS with cocoa. Garnish: orange peel - 3/4 oz Tequila Reposado - 1/4 oz Mezcal - 3/4 oz Sibona Barolo Chinato UN FRANCESE CHINATO by Joy Napolitano - 3/4 Campari bitters The Barber Shop – Rome Method: mixin’ glass. Glass: rock with no ice. Garnish: orange peel INGREDIENTS - 30ml Carpano Classico Vermouth - 45ml Camus VSOP Cognac Elegance CARDINALISSIMO by Lorenzo Antinori - 15 ml Fontana Fredda Barolo Chinato - 3 drops Abbott’s bitters INGREDIENTS - 1 bsp Campari bitters - 50ml Cocchi Barolo Chinato Method: shake & strain. Glass: cocktail - 15ml Balsam glass. Garnish: lemon zest - 150ml fresh blood orange juice - 30ml cocoa soda Method: built and top up with UN PARISIENNE A TORINO by Marco Corallo soda. Glass: highball. Garnish: a slice of blood Ray’s Bar Jumeirah at Etihad Towers – Abu Dhabi orange and a cherry INGREDIENTS - 45ml Rye Whisky LO BARO by Vincenzo Errico - 25ml Rovero Barolo Chinato L’Antiquario – Naples - 25ml Campari bitters infused with cardamom INGREDIENTS Method: stir & strain. Glass: - 1,5oz Borgogno Barolo Chinato Old fashioned. Garnish: orange peel - 0,5oz agave syrup - 0,5oz lemon juice - a micro dash of hot salsa (Mama Sita’s) AFTER OPERA by Claudio Perinelli Method: dry stir all ingredients. Heat up Seymour’s Parlor/The Zetter the mixture and pour into a glass heated Townhouse, Marylebone – in a bain marie. Garnish: none London INGREDIENTS - 30ml Cocchi Barolo Chinato

12 February 2016 A symphony of 34 herbs. Drink responsibly

Just relax and enjoy the extraordinary symphony of flavour in a glass of Alpestre, brought to you by an orchestra of 34 medicinal herbs, blended and aged in oak casks from an ancient recipe. A small sip of this distilled spirit will delight both your heart and mind. alpestre.it Distributed by: OnestiGroup S.p.A.

Alpestre_adv_ENG_A4.indd 1 09/12/15 15:41 liquid story ON THE SLOPES OF MT. VESUVIUS GREEN WALNUTS AND THE WITCHES’ SABBATH The life and virtues of Nocillo: robust, full-bodied and unmistakeable BY DARIO D'AVINO

n essential link with tradition and an actual ingredient, time directs the wise gestures and the behaviour of those who, for centuries,A have produced that liqueur known as Nocillo, a liqueur infused with walnut husks and spices produced in the area stretching around the foot of Mt. Vesuvius. Since ancient times, the common walnut (Juglans Regia) has been the centre of numerous myths. It is said that it was a central element of the witches’ sabbath, known in local dialect as “janare”, who would meet around it during mid- summer nights in order to perform their rituals. Farmers would plant it far from The production of Nocillo is also char- other fruit trees because it was common- acterised by secular myth and tradition ly believed that the walnut, a tree that and is marked by specific time-based could easily live to 300 years of age, rituals. In ancient times, the summer was poisonous and would harm the soil solstice was celebrated on 24 June, the around its roots. Even today it is still feast day of St John the Baptist, and ac- commonly believed that falling asleep or cording to tradition it is then that the pausing for too long under a walnut tree green nuts used in Nocillo should be can cause terrible headaches, or in more picked and cut in order to obtain the high- severe cases, fevers and illness. est possible concentration of essential

14 February 2016 oils within the kernel. Legend has it that per litre of alcohol, together with a mix the dew that forms during the night of St of spices generally made up of cloves, John the Baptist is an effective medicinal cinnamon and nutmeg. The quantities remedy and that it is particularly effective and exact composition is one of those for treating digestive and gastro-intesti- secrets that each family jealously guards. nal problems. These properties are “co- The maceration process takes place incidentally” also found in Nocillo. in glass carboys; they are kept out in the The harvest, which is traditionally do- open and constantly exposed to light, in ne by older women, ends by cutting the order for the sun to act as a catalyst in husks into four and infusing 24 walnuts the infusion process. After approximately

February 2016 15 IN THE KITCHEN THE ENTRANCE OF THE FAMOUS ‘E CURTI IN THE 90 days, and just as the hot summer take over a family restaurant from their CENTRE OF days are coming to an end, the infusion uncle, renaming it with their stage name. SANT’ANASTASIA. that is obtained is filtered through Dutch Precursors of “Km 0”, they offered linen, fabric that is historically linked to products solely from the immediate the wedding dresses of the Neapolitan surrounding area, winning people over nobles. This is then mixed with a very ba- thanks to genuineness and taste, as sic syrup made from water and sugar and well as thanks to the charm and class bottled immediately. The result is a dark, that they perfected over all those years dense liqueur, with a full-bodied flavour in entertainment. At the ‘E Curti restau- and an unmistakably nutty fragrance, as rant, every customer would finish off their well as of course, digestive properties. meal with a glass of their Nocillo. For Nowadays, thanks to the attention many years, the ‘E Curti Nocillo was ex- being given to rediscovering excellence clusively enjoyed at the trattoria at the within Italy, even those who for decades end of a meal, but in 1997, Vincenzo have dedicated themselves, day in and D’Alessandro, Luigi and Antonio’s neph- day out, to producing Nocillo with great at- ew, decided to sell the Nocillo. He firmly tention to quality and tradition, are finally believed in its potential and dedicated being duly recognised. An example is ‘E great passion and care to it. Curti. In 1952 two ‘tiny Lilliputian’ broth- The walnuts used in the ‘E Curti Nocillo ers, Luigi and Antonio Cerriello (who were comes from Mt. Vesuvius, Capri, Ischia, given the nickname “ ‘E Curti”, which Cilento and Positano (where the walnut in dialect means “short”), after having grove is directly owned by the D’Alessan- spent many years travelling around Italy dro family) and they are used to produce as circus presenters, returned home to single origin Nocillo, with the label bear- the small town of Sant’Anastasia, on the ing the year of production as well as the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius, and decided to day in which the walnuts were harvested.

16 February 2016 of its many uses in mixes, is the “Essen- za di Nucillo” (Nucillo Essence), a bran- dy made of walnut husks, derived from distilling what remains of the production of the Nocillo. This is the result of the collaboration between ‘E Curti and the productive genius of Vittorio Capovilla. Another long and great family history is that of the Pollio Walnuts from family. It all started Capri, mt. in 1935 on the Sor- Vesuvius, Ischia, rento Peninsula, at Massa Lubrense, Cilento and when farmer Antoni- Positano make no Pollio took over the land that the up single-origin monks farmed for Nocillo It is characteristically amber-brown in co- the production of lour, a “monk’s habit”, and in the aroma wine, oil and liqueur the unmistakeable smell of cinnamon and that they had since abandoned. The comes through along with the smell of Pollio family was closely tied to the cler- walnut. Its flavour is well-rounded and ical world, so much so that their first harmonious, and the alcohol proof varies harvests were donated with devotion to by year between 50% and 55%. An abso- the monastery’s prior. It is as a result of lutely fascinating product, also because this that the farming business derives

February 2016 17 its name – Il Convento. One of the older liqueurs made by the Pollio family is the Nocillo, made from the husks of green walnuts, grown alongside the famous lemon groves of Sorrento. Its bitter taste, which is typical of an un- ripe walnut, is what sets it apart. The arrival on the market of a limited-edition reserve of Il Convento Nocillo, that has been aged in barrels, promises to raise great interest. Nocillo has always had an historically familial connotation, but if we look back and investigate the origins of its industrial growth, we discover that the Leanza company from Leorta di Atella, a town in the province of Caserta, produces a walnut liqueur called “Nocillo”, and the brand was registered in 1890. Leanza uses selected walnuts and a se-

THE RECIPES These Nocillo recipes are the creation of CACI NE Neapolitan Vincenzo Errico, a bartender at Match Bar in London with Dick Bradsell INGREDIENTS and who also worked with the late Sasha - 30ml Calvados V.S.O.P. Chateau Du Breuil Petraske of Milk & Honey in New York and London. His drink, Red Hook, was named - 30ml Il Convento Nocillo one of the 25 most influential drinks of - 30ml D.O.M. Bénédictine the last 100 years by IMBIBE. Method: light stir & strain Glass: old fashioned Garnish: none TONACA DI MONACO INGREDIENTS ENNEDINOCE - 10ml Green Chartreuse INGREDIENTS - 45ml Johnnie Walker Gold Label - 45ml Beefeater 24 Gin - 30ml ‘E Curti Nocillo - 30ml Nocillo ‘E Curti cru Positano - 2 dash Fee Brothers Orange Bitters - 15ml Vermouth Riserva Carlo Alberto Rosso Method: shake & strain - 15ml Grand Marnier Glass: cocktail glass Method: shake & strain Garnish: orange peel Glass: sour glass Garnish: lemon peel

18 February 2016 cret combination of spices that connotes the product made from alcohol obtained from distilling cereals and refined gran- ulated sugar. Leanza produces 250,000 bottles of 38% Nocillo per year, which is made to age for two years before bottling. It also produces a version of 41% Nocillo Reserve, that ages for five years in oak barrels. The production of walnut husk liqueurs, rich in history and tradition, strongly connotes a land of which it is an ambassador, and its perception of tradition and culture nowadays comes across as modern. Without of course forgetting those farmers’ hand that were soiled by the walnuts in those days in June around the feast of St John. Dario D'Avino

CIOCIOLE IL PROFICUO INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS - 60ml Bushmills Irish Whiskey - 45ml Nocillo ‘E Curti cru Vesuvio - 20ml lemon juice - 15ml Vermut Riserva Carlo Alberto Rosso - 20ml Leanza Nocillo - 15ml Edmond Briottet Créme de Figue - 5ml almond syrup - 60ml fresh orange juice - 10ml egg white - Top with soda Method: shake & strain Method: build Glass: old fashioned Glass: Collins glass Garnish: egg white foam Garnish: slice of orange and a sprig of mint

February 2016 19 cocktail story BARRACUDA

GREAT SHIPS SHOWN HERE AND ALONGSIDE, THE TWO TRANSATLANTIC OCEAN LINERS IN THE PORT OF GENOA AND ON THE OCEAN. BOTTOM RIGHT, THE BARS ON THE RAFFAELLO AND MICHELANGELO.

THAT DRINK UPON THE OCEAN A balanced mix, with a “hull” as a glass BY LUCA RAPETTI

enoa, one of the most powerful important features of the port of Genoa. maritime republics, has always During the sixties and seventies, it wel- been one of the landmarks of comed and launched some of the most maritime commerce in Europe noteworthy ships of the period. Miche- Gand the world. Symbolised by the unmis- langelo and Raphael are two of the most takable lighthouse that towers above it, influential Italian Renaissance artists, the city is still today the main Italian port two giants of the art world after whom with regard to cargo transportation. massive and innovative transatlantic oce- The cruise sector is one of the most an liners were named. At that time they

20 February 2016 were known as “Super-Transatlantics”. The layout and setup of the ships was identical; the only difference between the Michelangelo and Raffaello was their style. The first was classic, while the second was Art Deco, and both carried many wor- ks of art fit for museums. They shared a head designer, but the team of architects and artists worked independently. The Michelangelo was completed on 21 April 1965, after five years of construction and cost a total of 75 billion Italian lire at the time. With 1,495 passengers on board it set sail on its maiden voyage from Ge- noa to New York on 12 May 1965. The Raffaello, with 1,121 passengers, also set sail from Genoa to New York on 25 July 1965. Built by Italia Navigazione, a state en- tity responsible for maritime transportation, these “floating cities” carried travellers to New York or Italy, providing them with the comfort of a five-star hotel, divided into three classes: first class, second class (also known as “cabin class”, because no one wanted to be considered a “second-class” passenger) and the tou- rist class. Ballrooms, restaurants, outdo- or pools and even a well-equipped hospi- tal made up the luxury service provided to their international clientele, counting among its guests some illustrious per- sonalities. These ships were a real source of Ita- lian pride thanks to their magnificence. Both provided excellent service with as many as seven bars located in strategic points, each of which was headed up by a barman and his staff. BarTales met with one of the most famous of these barmen, described as “entertainers and gentlemen of the art of fine drinking”. Be- nito Cuppari, a Genoese born in 1936, is

February 2016 21 BARTENDER A YOUNG BENITO CUPPARI, one of the most charismatic characters practice the knowledge he gained during PREPARING A COCKTAIL. still alive today of a generation of barmen his studies. who drew much attention to themselves At a time when there was no internet, thanks to their level of professionalism mobile phones, high-speed trains or in- and the service they offered, not to men- tercontinental flights (the first flight in tion their fanciful earnings of unknown a Boeing 747 took place on 9 February sums. 1969), the young man was able to bro- Benito sailed on all the great Italian aden his knowledge in only two ways: transatlantic ocean through books or travelling the world; liners: Augustus, Giu- opportunities that were most often not Benito sailed on all lio Cesare, Leonardo within everyone’s means. Which is exact- the great Italian Da Vinci, Colombo, ly what Benito Cuppari did, boarding his transatlantic Michelangelo, Conte first transatlantic liner, Cristoforo Colom- Grande, Raffaello. bo, in 1954. On this ship, Michelange- ocean liners. In He became the head lo’s sculpture, the Pietá, was taken from 1954, he set foot barman on the popu- Naples to New York for an exhibition. The lar Michelangelo and piece was insured for a sum of 6 billion on his first, the his ‘bridge’ was the Italian lire at the time and packaged in Cristoforo Colombo Bar Nero, entirely fini- two crates; an external one which was shed in black leather, unsinkable, and an internal one packed with a bar counter with polystyrene. It was guarded throu- 28 metres long and Michelangel-esque ghout the entire voyage and was not kept artwork dominating the scene. After at- in the hold but on an outside deck of tending hotel school, Benito was sent to the ship, so that it was easier to retrie- the Isle of Wight, south of England, for ve should the ship sink or be wrecked, some time, to learn English and put into thanks to the floating crates.

22 February 2016 His exposure to international customers and access to a storeroom with a wide assortment of fruits, spices and alcoholic products, allowed Cuppari to create a very simple drink that at the same time was appreciated by the passengers. The abundance of pineapple on the ship evoked a certain curiosity within Cuppari, and he tried to mix the fruit with rum and a great Italian spirit, Galliano, with its unmistakeable hint of vanilla. A mix of lemon juice and sugar was added to balance the drink, which was then topped up with Brut Champagne. SEA & DRINKS ABOVE, TWO The reasons Benito used Galliano were PHOTOS OF THE simple and intuitive: Galliano was always from which the flesh was scooped out and BAR ONBOARD THE CRISTOFORO available on board cruise ships and in the used to make fresh pineapple juice. COLOMBO. TOP LEFT, THE CRATE best cocktail bars in major cities. More- Even though it was born aboard the OF MICHELANGELO’S over, its particular flavour with hints of Cristoforo Colombo, it was on the Miche- PIETÁ THAT WAS TRANSPORTED vanilla was enjoyed by the international langelo that the cocktail became famous. FROM NAPLES TO customers, especially United States citi- Cuppari stepped on board in 1965 and NEW YORK ONBOARD THE zens. What makes a cocktail enjoyable is was able to offer his creation in one of CRISTOFORO COLOMBO. no doubt the balanced combination of the the liner’s seven bars, the Bar Lido. For various ingredients, but also the choice a cocktail to be successful, the name of the glass in which it is served. For Be- is just as important – it must be easy nito, the glass represented the external to remember and pique the curiosity of structure of a luxury liner, while inside it those who wish to try it. a small world existed, made up of various Benito was a good friend of the mana- elements in perfect equilibrium. Cuppari ger of one of the most well-known night had a great idea. He used the pineapple clubs on the Riviera di Levante, in the itself as the ‘hold’ of his cocktail. The peel famous and fashionable municipality of of the pineapple was used as a ‘glass’, Santa Margherita Ligure: the bar was

February 2016 23 It was topped up with Champagne Brut Mercier, a wedge of lemon and a Mara- schino cherry. Hundreds were made, and it was given as a gift to the customers of the Michelangelo who ordered a Barra- cuda at the bar. This brilliant marketing strategy noticeably increased the use of the products making up the cocktail. La Dole, world leader in fruit products from the United States, sent Cuppari a thank you letter for having dramatically increased demand for pineapple on board the ships of the biggest international companies thanks to his recipe. An AIBES member, Benito Cuppari was awarded the Golden Shaker for the Mi- chelangelo cocktail (Bourbon, Campari, lemon juice) and the Bruno Deserti prize by the then president, Angelo Zola. Which barman does not wish to be recognised

CREATIONS by someone who still today is considered THE RECIPE OF one of the fathers of Tiki culture in the THE FAMOUS PINEAPPLE called Barracuda. A simple name that world? This also happened to Cuppari. COCKTAIL, THE BARRACUDA. was easy to remember, which perfectly In 1970, in London, and then in 1973 matched the slightly Caribbean style of in New York, he went to the two already the cocktail itself. And so the Barracuda well-known Trader Vic’s Tiki Bars, which Cocktail was born, a mix of unusual ingre- boasted his Barracuda Cocktail on their dients for the time, a great example of a menus. He had the opportunity to me- cocktail concept (mix, glass, the name all et Victor Bergeson (aka Trader Vic) in in tune), which allowed Cuppari to make person, who admitted that he made use dozens every day. The drink achieved in- of the Barracuda very much, because it ternational fame and Solaro Distilleries had rum as a base and also because of Milan, which at the time owned the it exemplified the Tiki culture in Trader Galliano brand, decided to make a cera- Vic’s bars. mic pineapple, with a photo and recipe In 1975, after 10 years of serving and of the Barracuda, using another two pro- delighting passengers with his imagina- ducts within its range. Here is the recipe: tive cocktails, Cuppari returned to terra 2/10 Galliano firma for good. The arrival of transconti- 3/10 Palo Viejo Rum nental jets, offering a faster and cheaper 3/10 pineapple juice service marked the end of an era, and 1/10 lime or lemon juice the Michelangelo was at this point termi- 1/10 sugar syrup or a teaspoon of nating its service. On 12 January 1975, sugar Michelangelo set sail from New York to

24 February 2016 Genova for the last time. On Pier 94, a tearful crowd bid the ship farewell, which was making its way to its final destina- tion. In Genoa, a huge crowd welcomed it, waving their final goodbye to a ship that had brought such pride to the Italian maritime sector. The Michelangelo was reduced to iron scrap. With his heart and mind always taking him back to his birthplace, Cuppari decided to settle in his beloved Genoa. He opened his first bar, naming it Shaker Club, now known as Scassa Diavoli, in via Cesarea, where one would find the Barracuda and other signature cocktails created before Cuppari’s time, such as the Papillon. Even if less famous than the Barracuda, the Papillon also represents Based on a very simple recipe using a great example of how to build a story Rum Gold, gin, pineapple juice and coco- around cocktails so that it becomes more nut cream, served in a coconut shell and interesting for the customer. finished off with Champagne, its name is

February 2016 25 breath-taking views extending from east to west and that overlooks the whole port of Genoa and its imposing lighthouse. Here he opened La Barcaccia, a small restaurant run by his son, Davide. The restaurant includes an impressive bar area with a wide range of spirits, liqueurs and bitters, all beneath a to-scale mo- del of the Michelangelo. Proud of his past, Benito does not hesitate in going GENOA AT THE TOP, behind the bar counter to show me a BENITO CUPPARI WITH inspired by the book “Papillon”, by Fren- small object he has created, that has LUCA RAPETTI ch writer, Henry Charrière. Published in been patented no less: a lemon peeler AT THE COUNTER OF LA 1969, it is an autobiographical account for left-handed users, designed to quickly BARCACCIA, RUN BY of the 12 years that the author spent create a perfect spiral or a peel to garni- CUPPARI’S SON, DAVIDE. in prison in French Guinea. Compelling sh a Martini. In 2011, the IBA officially ABOVE, A VIEW and richly emotional, Papillion captured added the Barracuda to its new world OF THE RESTAURANT. the hearts of thousands of readers in a cocktail list, within the New Era Drink ABOVE RIGHT, THE LEMON very short time and in 1973 was turned category. PEELER FOR LEFT-HANDED into a feature film with Steve McQueen Benito Cuppari was a leading persona- USERS THAT HAS BEEN and Dustin Hoffman. Many other crea- ge in a golden era of bartending, a wor- PATENTED BY tions were added to Cuppari’s cocktail thy ambassador of the Italian bartending CUPPARI. list. After a few years, he sold the Shaker tradition around the world. Club and moved to Castelletto, one of Luca Rapetti the more renowned areas in Genoa, with (Courtesy Picture Transatlantic Era)

26 February 2016 Extraordinary spirits since 1779.

@GrappaNardini www.nardini.it zoom FRUIT FRUIT COCKTAIL MIXES Fresh fruit or processed, but always of high quality BY FABIO BACCHI

roduct selection is a source of de- dard remains constant. bate and every time the elements When attempting to strike the best bal- making up the offering must be ance between price and quality, which a considered: the cost of the drink, bar must use as a guideline in order to Ppreparation time, the club itself and its tap into its target market, these and other related volumes, supply and seasonality, variables combine into a unique mixture, management of the store room, preserving where the balance must meet a number of it, how to ensure the drink’s quality stan- objectives: correct profitability, optimisation

28 February 2016 of the costs, client satisfaction. A matter preparation. One probably would not think that must be duly considered. of making fresh tomato juice; it is more The use of fruit as an ingredient al- logical to use a good premix that will en- ways brings with it a certain dilemma: sure the same results each time in terms fresh fruit or processed fruit? It goes with- of flavour. A resort, night club or any other out saying that when using fresh fruit, a high-volume bar will employ different pro- certain emotional chord is struck within cedures to a small craft cocktail bar. Let the consumer. The first thing to consider us add another important point. Due to is the type of club and its volumes. It is seasonality, the fruit used is not always of the difference between a cruise ship or a good enough quality to justify its use, and high-selling bar that produces thousands of in this way fruit purees become very good drinks per day, versus a small craft bar that substitutes for correcting and bringing out serves 50/100 drinks per night. Twenty flavours. fruit daiquiris per night must necessarily be Nowadays there are global businesses managed differently to a place that serves within the sector that are able to manufac- 500 in the same space of time, but that ture products of great quality. Here we will necessarily would serve the drinks faster, look at two large producers. American Bev- and with different supply and processing erage Marketers, with their Finest Call and needs. Preparing 1 litre of syrup or puree Re’al brands which are distributed in Italy for daily use, while ensuring not to disre- by Onesti Group SpA, last year produced gard sanitary regulations, differs from sys- 4 million 12l cases. This figure is very sig- tematically using many litres during each nificant and is evidence of just how much shift. Processing 1kg of fresh strawberries fruit purees, syrups and premix infusions is very different to working with 50. are used in bars. Imagine a brunch on a cruise ship with The business, based in New Albany, thousands of passengers, possibly Amer- Indiana, has been a leader for 25 years ican, who often enjoy their meals with a since it bought the Master of Mixes (GDO) Bloody Mary and having to manage the brand in 1991. It boasts a factory that

February 2016 29 enormously but for William Hinkebein, the Marketing Vice President of the company, the real secret to success lies in their use of fresh fruit. The First Call range was launched in 1995 and a few short years later in 1998 it was already available in more than 70 countries around the world. Its objective: to make a range of consistent, quality prod- FINEST CALL AT THE TOP, ucts available to bartenders. In order to ISOLDE AUBUCHON. started out on a plot measuring 10,000m2 achieve a product with the required quality ABOVE, THE and today has reached 450,000m2, with standards, the company, with approval from RE’AL RANGE. six state-of-the-art bottling lines and 18 the Food and Drug Administration, devel- tanks measuring 1,000 litres each. The oped a strong collaborative relationship entire production process take place with- with fruit producers. The production cycles out any outsourcing: from the creation of of the fruit are managed together with the the fruit-based recipes, sweeteners and farmers, who have been selected by region natural aromas to the packaging. When and for the quality of their product. Both converting production, it is estimated that these factors guarantee adequate supply, 1,7 million cocktails are made using ABM also in terms of volume. products every day. Turnover has grown All this is the responsibility of ABM’s

30 February 2016 FOUNDERS GENNARO FABBRI AND RACHELE Technical Director, Isolde Aubuchon, who reaches as many as 200 products when BURIANI. selects the raw material from around the adding together its various brands. Thanks world. Mangoes, for example, are strictly to the rise in cocktail culture worldwide, in Alphonso, which are the best and are al- 2006 Coco Re’al was launched, a coconut most exclusively available from India (in cream that was immediately valued by bar- the Ratnagiri region), limes come from tenders generally, as well as some more Mexico (Key Lime), strawberries from Cal- distinguished exponents of the bartending ifornia (Albion, Ventana and Camorosa va- world. The traditional tin of coconut cream rieties), and bananas from Ecuador (the was thus replaced with a handy, squeez- Cavendish Banana). The fragrance of the able bottle. Caporale and Kratena, two fruit and its delicate balance is maintained influential barmen at the Artesian Bar in and perfected thanks to pasteurisation at London’s Langham Hotel do not go without low temperatures. Coco and Agave Re’al in their bar. Today, AMB is rightfully proud of having nar- the Re’al range includes nine variants. rowed the gap that used to exist between Italy’s leading company, which enjoys preserving the product and its quality. significant international presence, is Fabbri During bottling, the product undergoes 1905 SpA. Last year it celebrated the cen- a process that lengthens its shelf life. tenary of its most iconic product: the black ABM was the first company to introduce cherry. As a company, Fabbri SpA has al- “nitrogen purge” technology, where liquid ways focused on quality, expanding across nitrogen is used to remove 99.99% of the the world. Alongside its classic range of oxygen during the bottling process. The ni- syrups and fruit purees, it boasts a range trogen expands as much as 700 times its used to make flavoured coffees. starting volume and forces the oxygen out. This business is the result of the fore- This creates a completely inert and safe sight of its founder, Gennaro and his heirs. medium, eliminating oxidation between the Gennaro Fabbri was born in Alberino, Ferr- product and the cap. ara, one bitterly cold January in 1860 and Finest Call currently has a range of 70 was named after the month he was born different purees, syrups and premixes, but in. He moved to Argenta with his family

February 2016 31 FABBRI PRODUCTS ABOVE, THE and was to later marry Rachele Buriani. COFFEE SAUCE RANGE. TO THE As a young man he pursued a great many RIGHT, work experiences, showing initiative and MIXIBAR. was constantly conjuring up new ideas. In 1905 he was 45 years old and father to Aldo and Romeo. Thanks to 3,000 lire lent to him by his brother, he bought a small grocery store in Portomaggiore, which had an adjoining wine cellar that most useful for distilling. Gennaro transformed the grocery store into a place where he produced and sold liqueurs. He gave them evocative names that were in line with the times, Primo Maggio and Amaro Carducci. On the building itself the signage read “Pre- miata Distilleria Liquori G. Fabbri”, that is curdling of the dairy cream, and worthy sub- “G. Fabbri Award-winning Liquor Distillery”. stitutes of sugar in coffee-based drinks. And so began an entrepreneurial adventure They are gluten free and also kosher. Mix- that would cross the threshold of the third ibar is a range of products with an intense millennium. aroma. The Fabbri 1905 ranges used in bar- The strong ties that companies like tending are Mixibar, Mixifruit and Coffee these have to the world of bartending is Sauce. The Mixifruit speed bottles, very also shown by their sponsorship of pro- high concentrations of fruit juice and pulp, fessional associations and bartending are identified by their colour and an image events. In conclusion, the use of fresh of the fruit which gives the variant its fla- or processed fruit remains that setting in vour. The bottles are transparent to make which bartenders operate; and the quality checking the product inside easier. Coffee of the one must not disregard that of the Sauce are concentrates that can be very other. quickly diluted, with low acidity to prevent Fabio Bacchi

32 February 2016 FOLLOW USON www.fernet-branca.com

DRINK RESPONSIBLY bar story STEVE CRANE JOE'S KON-TIKI And the triumph of Luau’s Polynesian-pop culture BY GIANNI ZOTTOLA

oseph Stephen Crane was born on maintain and show a high standard of 7 February 1916 in Crawfordsville, living, but soon it was discovered that in Indiana. After having completed reality he financed his lavish nights at university, he started his career the best clubs in Hollywood, like Don the withinJ the family business. For Joe, as Beachcomber, through his particular skill he was usually called, a future as a ci- in gambling. His difficult relationship with gar salesman was on the cards, as well the actress, who was known for her infi- as sharing his life with wife, Carol Ann delity with actors and other celebrities, Kurzt. But his separation from his wife started on the very day of their wedding. pushed Crane to move away from the In fact, Crane had forgotten to reveal to snooty world of cigar trading and make the actress that he had already been his way to Hollywood in 1939. There he married once before. Once the marriage began to seek his fortune, looking to with Turner had been annulled and he start a potential film career by calling was divorced from his first wife, he was on connections with influential people he then able to remarry the beautiful ac- had met at bars that the stars frequent- tress in 1943, have a baby girl together, ed. Nonetheless, it was not his brilliant named Cheryl Crane, and divorce once acting skills which made the young man again in 1944, this time for good. famous, but rather his relationship with Crane’s family did not fit the ideal of well-known actress Lana Turner, who he a traditional family, especially following met at Mocambo, after having passed an episode involving his young daughter, as Joseph Stephen Crane III, the son of Cheryl, who was acquitted of the murder a cigar magnate. of one of her mother’s romantic partners. In 1942, Joe became the second of The victim was one John Stompato, a Lana’s seven husbands. He needed to gangster of Italian descent affiliated to

34 February 2016 MEMORIES SOME OLD PHOTOS OF STEVE CRANE’S CLUBS.

the well-known Mikey Cohen. He was that pushed Crane to search for success stabbed to death in self-defence by the within the bar and restaurant industry. 14-year-old girl who was running to her His first restaurant experience came mother’s aid. But it was his unsuccess- in the 1940s where he ran Lucy’s togeth- ful film career, together with his liaisons er with his business partner Al Mathes. with beautiful Hollywood actresses such Lucy’s was well-known and close to Par- as Ava Gardner, Rita Hayworth, Mamie amount Studios. But in 1948 he walked van Doren and his future-wife Lila Leeds, away from this enterprise to make a life

February 2016 35 for himself in Europe. Upon his return to the United States in 1953, he bought Tropic’s, in North Rodeo Drive (Beverley Hills) and turned it into one of the great- est clubs during the Polynesian-pop, or Tiki-culture era. It was called The Luau. Inspired by the most trendy clubs, bars and restaurants of the time, like Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic’s, The Exuberant Luau was one of the personality Joe most popular places became the second around, frequented by such Hollywood of Lana Turner’s stars as Elizabeth seven husbands, Taylor, Clark Gable, Billy Wilder and Go- bamboo bridges, lava waterfalls and Tiki whom he re Vidal. statues, exotic meals were served along divorced in 1944 With the collabora- with 70 types of cocktails. The Tiki cock- tion of designer, Flori- tails were also prepared by Ray Buhen, an Gable, one of the the famous bartender at Don, who was most famous Tiki designers, and along one of the first people to come on board with known architect George Nakashima, Crane’s project. The Luau was without doubt one of the The Luau was not only under Holly- most characteristic, detailed and spec- wood’s spot lights. Stories and anec- tacular bars/restaurants, where between dotes surrounded the club, such as the

36 February 2016 Kingsport News (Kingsport, Tennessee) · Fri, Aug 25, 1967 · Page 2 Downloaded on Jun 14, 2015

Clipped By: proached by the powerful Sheraton chain stragiannissimoof hotels to counter the dominance of Sun, Jun 14, 2015 Trader Vic’s within competitor company, Hilton. The growth of his business gave

Copyright © 2015 Newspapers.com.rise to All a Rights new Reserved. company called “Steve Crane Associates”, which opened new restaurants of the same style in numerous cities. These restaurants would also make history, and with the new name Kon-Tiki, inspired by the very famous ad- arrest of Gordon Scott (Tarzan) for having venture of Thor Heyerdahl, they would bathed in the nude in the tropical pool, spread far and wide to Montreal, Port- or when Eartha Kitt smashed a Tiki lamp land, Cleveland, Boston, Waikiki and Dal- on a customer’s head. Beachbum Berry las; a total of nine venues adding up to writes: “His role as a fake playboy and an investment of $4 million. The focus on his fake Polynesian restaurant were more cocktails was greater than ever. Ray Bar- successful than any of his marriages with rientos, barman at The Luau and trainer his four wives”. of the new Kon-Tiki bartenders, told how Crane’s acumen in the Tiki world did they had to change the recipes of many not go unnoticed, and he was in fact ap- of the drinks due to the large variety of

February 2016 37 image was a distinguishing mark of his success and equal only to Vic’s. In 1959, the clubs in Portland alone managed to turnover an average of $750,000. Five percent of that went straight into Crane’s pocket. It was in fact in Portland, probably due to the cutthroat competition of Trader Vic’s, that Crane’s Tiki was most successful, not just because of the struc- tural prominence of the venue, but also thanks to two bartenders who had trained under Ray Buhen: Matt and Vince Esimo, the brothers of Bob, a collabora- tor and supervisor of Ray’s when opening the Kon-Tiki’s. THE LUAU The Luau and the Kon-Tiki’s were IMAGES OF THE EXTERIOR AND among the first great venues to repre- INTERIOR OF rum available. sent the Tiki craze during its second era. THE FAMOUS RESTAURANT. Kon-Tiki’s success was such that it Their success was such that some of the could be comfortably compared to the venues used an incredible 240 bottles inimitable Trader Vic’s in terms of drink- of alcohol per night, all to replicate the ing and dining. The glitz of the Kon-tiki’s by-then historic drinks of Don Beach. The décor mirrored the exuberant personality management of the clubs mirrored that of Steve Crane. The luxury finishings, his of an industrial chain applied to bars. The eccentric attire and the exclusive overall entire “production line” of cocktails and

38 February 2016 food was designed to maximise profits. The décor became increasingly flashy, with ice sculptures, flowers and orchids, Tiki mugs made by Crane himself, ensuring that customers were increasingly cap- tivated for quite some time. Until at least in some cities, like Chicago for example, where competition among Tiki restaurants was very high, they were forced to focus on providing ever higher levels of quality, speed and excellence. This was made possible by hiring numerous extra staff and adding special features such as telephone plug points on every table. Success was enjoyed for a number of years, but with the decline of Tiki culture, a new generation shunned the fake Poly- nesian style so passionately that it came to a definitive end. While Vic’s acumen nesian cuisine. Like Don and Vic, Steve was able to save a few of the venues too had to concede that it was the end of from closure, The Luau closed its doors an era. Steve Crane, who suffered from definitively after 26 years. The property anaemia, died on 6 February 1985 at was sold for $4 million and the build- just 69 years of age in Pauma Valley, sur- ing was knocked down to create a car rounded by the love of his ex-wife, Helen park. The Kon-Tiki’s however, which were Demaree. still owned by the Steve Crane Associa- Gianni Zottola tion, changed their cuisine to French and Italian. Despite the fact that Crane was THE RECIPE adamant he would open another Luau in a new location, as confirmed by his KONTIKI MAI TAI daughter in the writings of Jeff Berry, the INGREDIENTS very able entrepreneur had already fore- - 3/4 lime juice seen that it would be impossible. Despite - 3/4 orange juice this, being the successful company that - 3/4 honey mix it was, in 1978 the SCA closed its books - 1/4 tsp ginger syrup with sales amounting to more than $9.5 - 1 1/4 Puerto Rican rum million. - 1 1/2 Appleton Amber Rum But the end was nigh. The new Holly- - 6 drops Pernod wood stars did not even know who Steve - 1 dash Angostura was. The lack of high-level public rela- - 4 oz ice tions and the desire for a style that was Method: flash blend. made up of light food and drinks did not Garnish with mint and a slice of pineapple. at all mix with exotic cocktails and Poly-

February 2016 39 poster limoncello48x666-12-201114:36Pagina1 DRINK RESPONSIBLY

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