Piedipaterno, your home in Welcome to Umbria The Green Heart of Natural Beauty - Fabulous Food & Wine - Friendly Village Life Piedipaterno

Piedipaterno Your Village Base in Umbria Experience all the tourist attractions – and more - from the comfort of a fully equipped house just 15 minutes from and 30 minutes from . Enjoy this delightful home, a place for you to relax and use as a convenient base to explore this beautiful area. Piedipaterno is an unspoiled, friendly village in the gastronomic centre of Umbria.

For further information contact: Carl and Mary Ciccarelli

0418909215/+61 418909215 0438909215/+61 438909215 [email protected]

‘What a quaint and perfect little village! We were all captured by the serenity of the beautiful valley & the friendliness of the people.’ (Visitors’ Book, May ’06) Cascate Delle Marmore Valnerina from the road to Castelluccio

Table of Contents

The Locality 4 The House 6 Local Information 10 Directions 13 Cost 16 Exploring Umbria 17 Beyond Umbria - Southern Tuscany 26 Restaurants 28 Map of Local Area 32 Apartment 33

Il mondo è un libro. Chi non viaggia ne legge una pagina soltanta. (S. Agostino) The world is a book. Those who do not travel read only one page. (St. Augustine) Piedipaterno

The Locality The Heart of Umbria The house is nestled in the picturesque hillside village of Piedipaterno, fifteen minutes from the major town and cultural centre of Spoleto. Piedipaterno is a well-preserved, historical village that lies in the , in the heart of Umbria. The gentle River Nera lies at the foot of the village. Piedipaterno is a small, friendly village, lying between Spoleto and . Many other beautiful and historical villages are dotted along the road between these two centres. Just outside Spoleto, the village is also only a short distance from many other celebrated Italian cities – Assisi, , Orvieto and to name a few – as well as many less familiar but glorious Umbrian hill-towns. Some of the best interactive maps of Spoleto and surrounding areas (including the road to Piedipaterno) can be found at www.maps.google.com For further information visit: www.umbria.org www.bellaumbria.net http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umbria www.initaly.com/regions/umbria/umbria.htm

!4 Vallo di Nera Spoleto

The Locality

Spoleto Spoleto is 155 km from Rome (and Piedipaterno another 17 km or so); by car it will take you around an hour and three quarters; by train about 1.5 hours to the Spoleto train station in the centre of town. Spoleto has a population of around 37,000 – the population of Piedipaterno is about 110 (more in summer!). The poet Shelley described Spoleto as ‘the most romantic city I ever saw’. Its origins in the Bronze Age, the city holds many Roman ruins within its well- preserved city walls. It is a graceful hill-town, largely made up of medieval streets and buildings. The Duomo is regarded as one of the best in Italy, with the last frescoes of Fra Filippo Lippi. Other churches date from the fourth century (San Salvatore) through to the medieval and Renaissance periods, and the Gallery (Pinacoteca) houses works by Perugino and Lo Spagno. The Ponte delle Torri (Bridge of Towers) is an incredible 14th century aqueduct giving fabulous views of the city, the valley and the Rocca (fortress) at the top of the city. Spoleto is well-known for its annual Festival of Two Worlds, held from late June Spoleto to mid-July. The Festival hosts a range of concerts and cultural events (music, dance and theatre, both Italian and international).

Surrounding Towns Some less well-known places within easy visiting distance (up to an hour’s drive) are:

Cascia Cortona Siena Sansepolcro Arezzo Viterbo Lago Trasimeno Montepulciano Cesi Acquasparta Citta di Castello San Gemini A little further afield (approximately 2.5 – 3 hours by car) are the masterpieces of and San Gimignano and Pisa. Spoleto is well served by train services – timetables are available at the train station.

‘Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! We have had the time of of our lives. Your home here in Piedipaterno village is AMAZING - the WOW factor. We enjoyed every minute of our time here.’ (Visitors’ Book, October ’15) !5 View from the balcony The House La Casa

‘Such a comfortable home in a beautiful spot! We loved its location – the hills and the river, and the easy access to all the wonderful Umbrian towns.‘ (Visitors’ Book, June ’06)

The house is an authentic example of the historical fabric of the village, which is a ‘centro storico’. The local has ensured that houses are restored in line with the historical and cultural significance of the village. It is a three-storey construction; two storeys of accommodation and a lower storey housing a cantina (cellar). It is reached through a covered walkway off the main village road. You will be met by Piera Massei* at the Bar Valnerina (on the main road to Norcia) at the time you have arranged. She will show you how to turn on the heating/hot water, and generally familiarise you with the house. The house has two double bedrooms, and can accommodate up to six people. The living areas downstairs are open and comfortable; the bedrooms are large, light and airy. All have beautiful views over the village and across the valley. The bathroom is large and modern (refurbished in 2007 and again in 2017); the kitchen is relatively small but is modern (rebuilt in 2009 and refurbished in 2015) and well-equipped. Hot water, stove, and central heating run on mains gas. This will be turned on before you arrive and Piera* will show you how the system works.

There is an information booklet in the house providing further details about the house. !6 DiningArea

In More Detail Dining Area View from top bedroom

Front Door The front door has a deadlock and is key-operated. Turn the key and hold it while you push the door to open.

Living/Dining Room This is a large area with a balcony as well as a double window, both with beautiful views. Central Heating – the central heating control is on the wall opposite the fireplace. It can be set to turn on and off at times of your choice. Please do not leave it on when you are out, or overnight. (It is expensive to run, and we do not charge for heating.) As a guide, in winter we set it to come on half an hour before we get up, by which time the house is warm. We generally set it to be switched off from 10.00 am until 4.00 or 5.00 pm in the winter. During other seasons, set it to meet weather conditions. Crockery, cutlery, glassware, table linens – these are all provided and are stored in the wall unit. CD player – remote control is next to the player. Please stop the CD playing before turning off the machine. CDs are in the storage unit next to the player. TV/DVD – TV is viewed through the satellite control – free-to-air English language news channels are programmed into the control, as well as Italian stations. DVDs are in the TV cabinet and also in the CD storage tower. Instructions for the use of the controls – including DVD player – are in the Information Booklet in the house. Power Board – there is a power board near the CD player with five Australian power points to charge/power your Australian equipment. Maps, tourist books and general reading material are in the wall unit/bookcase. Please feel free to use during your stay. Brochures and maps are in the basket on one of the shelves of the wall unit. Board games, playing cards and jigsaw puzzles are in the TV cabinet. There is a perspex board behind the TV cabinet that can be used to work the jigsaw puzzles. (Please be careful not to lose the pieces.)

WiFi is available in the house - the UserName and Password are to be found in the Information Booklet in the house. It should meet all your needs.

‘Thank you for allowing us to share this spectacular part of Italy which we have come to love in the [time] we have been here in Casa Ciccarelli. It was truly a home away from home… Thanks for sharing your knowledge of Umbria as it enabled us to discover the wonder and delights of the region and create lasting memories of our stay in this beautiful part of the world.’ (Visitors’ Book, September ’16)

!7 Spoleto Kitchen

Kitchen Dining Area The kitchen has been completely renovated and should cater for any and all needs. You may need to turn up the refrigerator. (Mid position should be fine; the higher the setting the colder the fridge.) Please turn the refrigerator down to 1 or 2 when you leave. It would be greatly appreciated if you could empty the refrigerator of any unused items before you leave. The stove-top runs on gas – there is a tap on the wall behind the stove to turn on. (This will probably have been turned on for you before your arrival.) The oven is electric and is very straightforward. An instruction book for the oven is in the kitchen. Toaster, microwave, bamix, electric beaters, coffee machine, water filter and food processor are provided.

Bedrooms There is one double bed in one bedroom and a double bed and a fold-out single bed in the other. There is also a fold-out double divan in the sitting room.

Both rooms have views over the valley and have ample storage.

Bathroom

No problems here once the hot water Bedroom 1 system is on. A hair dryer is provided. Please do not place any sanitary waste in the toilet. Bedroom 2

!8 View from kitchen window From the kitchen Living Room

Laundry The washing machine is in the bathroom – it is quite straightforward and instructions are on top. Washing powder and other laundry needs are in the cupboard. Please make sure that you use a couple of spoonfuls of CALFORT - or pods - (needed due to the high calcium content of the water) as well as detergent. Please do not use at higher than 30 degrees. Clothes can be hung to dry on the line off the balcony – very Italian – or on the clotheshorse, which can be used in a bedroom or on the upstairs landing, and is quite effective. (You should find it near the window in one of the bedrooms.) If you are after a laundry/dry cleaning service there are plenty in Spoleto. We use Lavanderia Rita on Via Cacciatori delle Alpe, the same street as the Friday market. It runs up the hill, perpendicular to the Monte Dei Paschi Bank.

Iron & Ironing Board An iron and ironing board are available. The ironing board will be in one of the bedrooms; the iron is in the cupboard on the upstairs landing. Distilled water is required for the iron, and is usually available in the same cupboard. It can be purchased in supermarkets.

Cleaning Equipment Cleaning equipment (including vacuum cleaner and brooms) are in the cupboards in the bathroom and the upstairs landing.

Rubbish Disposal Rubbish should be bagged and deposited in the large green bins you will see just off the street that comes up from the superstrada to the house. These large bins are emptied regularly.

Provisions Please feel free to use any supplies (except those marked as ‘personal stock’) that are in the house – food, beverage, household items. Simply replace what you have used before your departure.

Visitors’ Book You will find a visitors’ book in the living room. We would love you to add your name to it, with any comments you may like to make.

!9 Piedipaterno Local Information All the information you need to live like a local in Umbria Maps, tourist books and other information can be found in the bookcase in the living area. Please use and return. Feel free to add any useful information. Information on some local restaurants can be found on the corkboard in the entrance hall. Notes are on the back of business cards. Again, feel free to add to the collection.

Piedipaterno: Bar Valnerina; Hotel Umbria Pizzeria; & Other Shopping The bar is closed Tuesdays and Sunday afternoons during winter months. Being a tabacchi, it sells matches, which you cannot buy anywhere else (e.g. in supermarkets). The bar sells coffee, alcoholic and soft drinks; snacks (panini etc). It also sells bottled wine, local delicacies (pasta, truffles etc) and various other items. It will also sell you a bottle of milk. The bar has an excellent ‘tavola calda’ for cafeteria-style lunches (pasta, meat, vegetables etc) cooked freshly every day. The pizzeria offers good pizzas and a range of other dishes - great for those times you don’t want to go out. The closest shops are about four minutes down the road toward Spoleto, at the turn-off to Sant’Anatolio di Narco. Here there is also another bar, a butcher (macellaria) and an alimentari with bakery. There are quite a few supermarkets in Spoleto and other nearby centres. Some are not as large or as well- stocked as Australian (or US) ones, but you will find most of what you need. Look for the TIGRE supermarket on the street that heads down to the train station – Via Trente e Trieste. (There is also a very good butcher close by.) There are large CO-OP and EUROSPIN supermarkets on Via dei Filosofia – turn right directly after passing the Monte dei Paschi Bank on your right hand side. There is also a smaller EUROSPIN supermarket about 10 minutes down the road from Piedipaterno towards Norcia.

!10 Typical Italian Alimentari

When shopping for fruit and vegetables: • in smaller shops, the shop assistant may get what you ask for/point to. In this case do not touch merchandise; • in self-service shops and supermarkets, use plastic gloves provided; do not select merchandise with bare hands. Village Post Office is currently located in a demountable on the left of the Hotel Umbria. There are plenty of banks/post offices in Spoleto. Village church is at the top of the hill at the start of the steps. Mass is celebrated each Sunday and usually once or twice during the week. (Speaking of churches, the Duomo in Spoleto is an absolute gem and should not be missed.) Shops and offices generally open: 8.30/9.00 – 1.00 or 1.30; and 4.30 – 8.00. Churches, museums etc are also usually closed around 1.00 – 3.30 p.m. Market Day in Spoleto is Friday. You will find stalls selling a huge range of items in the street that runs at a 90 degree angle from the Banca Monte Paschi di Siena on Via Cacciatori delle Alpe. (By the way, you will also find a supermarket on this street, and just a little further up a very reliable and well- priced laundry – see above.)

Medical Services There is a medical service that is located on the side of the school at the Vallo Cathedral, Spoleto di Nera turn-off. The doctor is usually in attendance for limited hours three or four days a week. You will need to ask the days/hours. The doctor is excellent – concerned, thorough and charming. There is also a Pronto Soccorso (Emergency Centre) at the hospital in Spoleto – from first hand experience, medical staff are excellent, even though the hospital looks outdated. Your Medicare card will cover you at the hospital.

!11 Castle Courtyard, Spoleto Piedipaterno

Public Transport There is a bus service that runs from Spoleto to Norcia, through Piedipaterno. The bus stop is just outside the Bar Valnerina, where you will also find a timetable. The bus trip to Spoleto takes about 20 minutes. First bus leaves Spoleto at 6.50 in the morning; last bus from Spoleto leaves there at 8.00 p.m. On weekdays there are six buses each way during the day; on Sundays and holidays there are four. Check the timetable to ensure current information. The bus trip from Piedipaterno to Norcia will take approximately 35 minutes; to approximately 45 minutes, with a change at Serravalle.

Parking No problems parking in the village. In Spoleto, some parking is charged (reasonable cost; buy ticket from machine and place on dash of car). In other areas, particularly street parking, parking is free but timed. (Where bays are marked in blue, you need to pay; where they are painted white, parking is free.) When not paying, you need to use a disco orario – you should find a couple in the basket with the tourist information (please remember to replace when you leave) or they can be purchased at a tabacchi or cartoleria in Spoleto. Display the time of your arrival and leave on the car dashboard. Usual limit is one hour, but we simply return to the car and adjust the disc if we need more time.

At the End of Your Stay Please let Piera know when you will be leaving and arrange to leave the key with them or where they can pick it up. Please leave the house as you found it. The towels, bed linen and tea towels that you have been using will be washed after you leave; please leave them on the landing.

‘We have had a wonderful time exploring Umbria…And we really enjoyed staying in your house & being part of the village life. Staying here gave us the opportunity to experience aspects of Italy that other tourists would not.’ (Visitors’ Book, August ’08) ‘What a wonderful time we have had in this beautifully appointed home!… We have many wonderful memories and images to take home with us. It is difficult to list the highlights as everything from experiencing this little village to the bigger towns like Norcia and Spoleto were all highlights.’ (Visitors’ Book, September ’15)

!12

Winter view from bedroom

Spring walk, Piedipaterno

Directions

Directions for Travel by Car From Spoleto From the railway station, follow the signs to Foligno and Norcia. At the top of Via Trente e (the road from the station) take the second exit on the roundabout; follow the road, taking the right hand lane, and bear right at the T-junction; approximately 200 metres on avoid the exit to Rome and enter the roundabout; take the second exit. About 100 metres further, there is a sign to the right to Piedipaterno. Ignore it (it is the old road, which is long and winding). Follow the SS3 until you come to a turn-off to the right (SS685) to Norcia and Cascia. Follow this road through a long tunnel and continue to follow the signs to Cascia and Norcia. About 1 km past the turn-off to Vallo di Nera (which is on the right), you will see a sign pointing left up a hill to Meggiano and Piedipaterno. Ignore it. <- IGNORE THIS SIGN TO TURN LEFT

!13 A Aquaduct, Spoleto

A couple of hundred metres along the main road you will see the Bar Valnerina. This is where you will meet Piera Massei, who will take you to the house, give you the key and show you the ropes.

Contact * You should call Piera Massei (3488203100) and tell her your estimated time of arrival in Piedipaterno. Piera will meet you at Bar Valnerina. She does not speak English, so you may need to practise a few basic phrases or get someone to call for you. We will have let her know to expect you. She is warm, friendly and very helpful. Piera will show you the house and all you need to know for your stay.

BAR VALNERINA - Your Objective!

From Rome Take the A1 (Rome – Florence) from Rome. About 20/25 minutes from Rome you will come to toll-gates. Go to the gates on the right-hand side (not the Telepass gates) and take a ticket. Keep the ticket – you will need it to pay when you leave the autostrada at Orte in another 20/25 minutes. At the Orte exit (42km from A1 entry), go to the gates on the left. In 2016, the fee for this section was €4.40. (It’s advisable to carry some smaller denominations on you.) Having left the A1 at Orte take the E45 for Perugia, Cesena and Spoleto (the road on the right).

!14 Spoleto Castelluccio and the Piano Grande

A little after Terni, the E45 becomes the SS3, headed for Spoleto. Stay on this road, which will take you to Spoleto (53 km from Orte). Do not take the Spoleto exit. Stay on the SS3 after Spoleto until you come to a turn-off to the right (SS685) to Norcia and Cascia. (This is 57.5km from Orte.) Follow this road through a long tunnel and continue to follow the signs to Cascia and Norcia.

About 1 km past the turn-off to Vallo di Nera (which is on the right), you will see a sign pointing left up a hill to Meggiano and Piedipaterno. Ignore it.

IGNORE THIS SIGN TO TURN LEFT ->

A couple of hundred metres along the main road you will see the Bar Valnerina (this is 69km from Orte). This is where you will meet Piera Massei, who will take you to the house, give you the key and show you the ropes.

BAR VALNERINA - Your Objective! Contact * You should call Piera Massei (3488203100) and tell her your estimated time of arrival in Piedipaterno. Piera will meet you at Bar Valnerina. She does not speak English, so you may need to practise a few basic phrases or get someone to call for you. We will have let her know to expect you. She is warm, friendly and very helpful. Piera will show you the house and all you need to know for your stay. !15 Valnerina

Cost

For current costs, please see: www.ciccarellisinumbria.com

Costs include heating and all utilities. Please see p. 7 regarding Central Heating. We do ask you to ensure that heating is turned off when not required.

We had hardly heard of Umbria before visiting Piedipaterno – what a hidden treasure! The landscape is breathtaking and the food, wine and hospitality is wonderful. Our personal highlight was the Piano Grande, like nowhere else on earth. We hope your future guests get as much joy from the area as we have. (Visitors’ Book, 2012)

!16 Piedipaterno Exploring Umbria It is not for nothing that Umbria is known as ‘the green heart of Italy’. Its wooded hills, lush valleys and spectacular lakes unforgettable landscapes in all seasons.

Umbria Umbria’s historical and artistic attractions stretch from the Etruscan period (from the 8th century BC), with much remaining of the Roman period from the 1st century BC. The Medieval and Renaissance periods are richly represented in architecture and art throughout Umbria – in fact, there are serious claims that Umbria has the densest collection of works of art in Italy. Perugia, Assisi, Spoleto, Orvieto, Gubbio, Todi, Citta di Castello – and a hundred other small towns – are crammed with ancient, medieval and Renaissance treasures. Food and wine in Umbria will satisfy the most demanding palates. Open wood fires provide the basis of much traditional meat and fish cooking. Pork, including wild boar (cinghiale) and porchetta, lamb and river and lake fish are typical. Olive oil is good enough to be subject to the same reverence as wine. Pasta of course is ubiquitous – Umbria has its own pasta known as strangozzi. Truffles (black and white) are considered integral to Umbrian cuisine. Pecorino cheese is a specialty of the area, and Norcia is famous for its prosciutto, salumi and salsicce. Castelluccio is famous for its delicate lentils. And of course, Umbrian chocolate is legendary – think of Perugino ‘Baci’. There are four major wine-growing areas in Umbria: Montefalco and Bevagna (within 30 minutes from Piedipaterno); the triangle between Todi, Perugia and Spello (all within 45 minutes of Piedipaterno); Lago di Trasimeno (an hour distant); and southwest Umbria from Narni to Orvieto. In white wines, the Orvieto Classico and grechetto varieties are first-class; the red wines are largely based on San Giovese and Sagrantino grape varieties and are more full-bodied and flavoursome than some Italian wines. The Sagrantino di Montefalco is an excellent example.

!17 Cascate Delle Marmore San Pietro in Valle

For the active tourist, rafting, canoeing, hiking, skiing, hang-gliding and fishing are all easily accommodated interests. Throughout the year, there are many festivals in different Umbrian towns. Among the many are the Corso deo Ceri (the race of the candle towers) and the Palio della Balestra (medieval crossbow competition with San Sepolcro) in Gubbio in May (and in San Sepolcro in September); the wines of the World Festival (May) and the Festival of Two Worlds (June) in Spoleto; the street flower carpets in Spello (May or June); the Festa di Fioritura in Castelluccio in June; the Giostra della Quintana – jousting – in Foligno (September); EuroChocolate in Perugia (October) and Christmas cribs in Assisi in December. Most towns have their own festas to which all are welcome. Umbria has a strong religious and spiritual tradition (Benedict, the founder of western monasticism,was born in Norcia; the veneration and influence of Francis of Assisi is widespread). While current religious practice is as limited as elsewhere in Italy, this legacy is found in the kindness, warmth and hospitality that you will experience in Umbria.

The Valnerina One of the least-known and most fascinating areas of Umbria, the valley of the River Nera extends from Terni to Norcia. PIEDIPATERNO lies right in the middle of this region. At the southern end of the valley, about 10kms from Terni, is the famous CASCATE DELLE MARMORE, a spectacular artificial waterfall created by the Romans in 271BC.

The falls are now a source of hydroelectric power, so check with the tourist bureau to find out when they are in full flow. In winter, they provide a different attraction, with falling water turning to ice. Not far from the Cascate lies the lakeside town of PIEDILUCO – a pretty stop for a stroll and a gelato, or to be more actively engaged with canoeing and other water sports. The Abbey of SAN PIETRO IN VALLE is Umbria’s oldest monastery and is one of the most mystical places in the whole region. It is worth searching out the caretaker to get it opened (see guide books for directions to his house). For something a little out of the ordinary (not to say macabre) visit Le Mummie (the mummies – of Chinese pilgrims and Napoleonic visitors) in the grotto of the church in the village of FERENTILLO. On the way back from these spots towards Piedipaterno you will pass SCHEGGINO, where the river provides a centre for canoeing in summer months. The town is very prettily built on the hillside, and looks even more delightful when lit up at night. On the hill opposite Piedipaterno, you will see the village of VALLO DI NERA. It is a lovely medieval village, with two interesting churches, a great restaurant and a wonderful outlook. Further on the road towards Spoleto, you can turn off to the Abbey of San Felice, then the village of CASTEL SAN FELICE (you will need to park outside the village but a wander around the tiny streets is worth the brief diversion).

!18 Monteleone Santa Maria, (The Duomo) Spoleto

You can then turn off to SANT’ANOTOLIA DI NARCO (interesting only in that it has been continually inhabited since the 8th century BC). From here take the road past CASO and GAVELLI (stop to see the church of San Michele) to MONTELEONE. This is a fabulous drive with some spectacular views, and you can stop and follow some walking paths after Gavelli if you are keen. The Valnerina continues past Piedipaterno to the Sibillini National Park and the towns of Norcia and Castelluccio – both of profound interest (see information following). The drive along the river is a delight. The Valley as a whole provides great walking country and some lovely small villages to explore. Rafting and trout fishing (in season) are available along the river from Piedipaterno - see Scheggino, Vallo di Nera, Serravalle. Hiking, horseriding and paragliding can be organised in the Sibillini National Park (from Norcia or Castelluccio); skiing at Castelluccio, Visso and Forca Canapine.

‘What a wonderful place you have here – well-appointed and the perfect launching pad for adventures in Umbria.’ (Visitors’ Book, October’07)

Spoleto The city is famous for the wonderful Festival of Two Worlds held in June/July each year; with theatre, music, ballet and art, the town really buzzes. For the rest of the year it remains a quiet, beautiful town of Roman origin with much to be seen of artistic and historical interest. The Roman period is represented by the Casa Romana, the Arco di Druso and the Anfiteatro Romano. The magnificent castle dominating the town, the Rocco Albornoz, is now a museum and arts centre and from there you can walk across the spectacular Ponte Delle Torri, the aqueduct built to take water to the fortress. In the town itself, the very beautiful Duomo (cathedral), Santa Maria Assunta, is the final resting place of Fra Filippo Lippi. The last frescoes he ever painted can be seen in this cathedral, which has to be one of the jewels of Italian cathedrals. Many other churches and museums contain architectural and artistic treasures. The daily ‘passeggiata’ still takes place, particularly on the Corso Garibaldi from Piazza Garibaldi. It is lovely to join families, teenagers and older residents enjoying the daily interaction and you can follow up with a drink at one of the bars and/or a meal in town - there are plenty of options.

‘What a fantastic location to enjoy all the jewels of Umbria. We enjoyed the food, wine, culture and shopping in Assisi, Spello, Norcia and Orvieto. Our stay was made even more special by the friendly and welcoming neighbours.’ (Visitors’ Book, 2012)

‘Highlights were Norcia, Roccapareno and Todi…’ (Visitors’ Book, May ’06)

!19 Norcia Outside Norcia

Norcia The birthplace of Saint Benedict is obviously of particular interest to West Australians (New Norcia Abbey), Norcia is off the main tourist trail (but right on the trail from Piedipaterno) on the plain below the Apennines. It is no more than an easy 25 minute drive from Piedipaterno, and well worth the drive for a wander and a lunch in one of a number of excellent restaurants. Norcia is surrounded by enchanting countryside that has been home to countless hermits over the centuries. It is famous for its pork (prosciutto, salami, sausages etc) as well as its black truffles, lentils, trout, lamb and cheeses. It would be a shame to leave without something to add to your pantry – even truffle-flavoured chocolates are available! A gourmet’s delight.

Castelluccio Above Norcia, at the far end of an extraordinary lunar-like valley (the Piano Grande – formed from the crater of an extinct volcano), is CASTELLUCCIO, the highest village on the Apennines. Wonderful walking country, the valley is a never-ending meadow of alpine flowers in late spring and summer. In winter, it can be a difficult drive but is well worth the effort. The town itself is famous for its graffiti – for years the way in which local gossip and argumentation was carried on. It is also famous for its lentil production; Castelluccio lentils are much in demand by gourmets.

Cascia Off the road (and well sign-posted) between Piedipaterno and Norcia, Cascia is chiefly famous as the birth-place of St Rita (1381 – 1457) and hosts a large shrine to her. There is also a small church underneath the basilica which is particularly interesting and charming. St Rita’s house can still be visited. The town itself, especially the ‘centro storico’, is quite charming and offers some wonderful views of the Umbrian hills.

Montefalco, Trevi and Bevagna Small villages between Spoleto and Perugia that are all worth a visit. Montefalco has a small but interesting museum/art gallery but more importantly is famous for its wines. It is small enough to walk around but this walk is just enough to work up an appetite for lunch, and there are some interesting restaurants and wine bars to try. You can also buy quite good, cheap bulk wine from Rocca di Fabbri just outside the town itself (well-signed). Trevi is a relatively typical Umbrian hill town with a lovely walk from the town centre to the outlying monastery, giving wonderful views over the valley and the town’s olive groves. There are some very good restaurants, including a trattoria Mange e Beve in Borgo Trevi (on the way in to Trevi). Bevagna is a fascinating example of a relatively intact walled town. It was originally a staging post on the Roman Via Flaminia, and has many remnants of the Roman era, though much of the town itself is medieval. All are within very easy reach of Piedipaterno.

!20 Spello Assisi

Spello Spello is a beautiful village of Roman origin, one of the more famous hill-towns of Umbria. Finish the day with a wander in the gardens of the Villa Fidelia (just below the village) and dinner at II Molino. On the Sunday Feast of Corpus Christi the Infiorata is held in Spello and the streets are covered in designs and pictures created out of flower petals. The frescoes by in the main church are spectacular, and there is a fabulous enoteca (see below), which serves lunches (and tastings) of fabulous local foods and has a very worthwhile wine collection.

Assisi Assisi is a beautiful hill-town with an extraordinary atmosphere. It is the centre for a great deal of religious pilgrimage, but offers all visitors a town of historical and artistic beauty within an atmosphere of peace that seems to transcend the tourist numbers and commercial activities that serve them. The views over the valley are quite stupendous. The Basilica of St. Francis is the centrepiece of Assisi, but certainly not its only attraction. Begun in 1228, just two years after the death of St Francis, the lower church houses the saint’s tomb in the crypt – the most intimate and evocative space in the Basilica. The Upper Church houses the famous series of frescoes by Giotto, showing scenes from the saint’s life, as well as paintings by Cimabue. Assisi Walk up to the Piazza del Commune in the centre of the village and see the Roman Temple of Minerva, transformed into a church in 1539. Remains of the Roman forum can be seen in the Museo Civico, just off the same square. Nearby is the Oratorio di San Francesco, the house in which the saint was born. Probably the most beautiful Romanesque facade in the whole of Umbria can be found on San Rufino, Assisi’s cathedral, a bit further up the hill. Also worth a visit the Church of Santa Chiara,which houses the Crucifix that reputedly spoke to St Francis, and the crypt where Santa Chiara is buried. The church houses some interesting mementoes of Francis and Claire. Above the village, from the medieval fortress, the Rocca Maggiore, there are wonderful views right across the Tiber Valley. Keep going up and lunch at La Stalla (either under the vines or by the fire in the cellar) before visiting the Eremo delle Carcere where St. Francis and his followers used to meditate. In May each year there is a three-day spring festival, the Calendimaggio, held in Assisi. Some kilometres from Assisi, at its base, is the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli. This huge and rather ‘over the top’ church is worth visiting to see the Porziuncola, which is housed inside – a tiny church with numerous direct links to St Francis – as well as the Capella del Transito, where he died, and the Rose Garden and the Museum of the Sanctuary. Assisi is very easily accessible by train from Spoleto and is also an easy drive.

!21 Perugia

Perugia Among the many historic and artistic monuments in the regional capital don't miss the unique Rocca Paolina - part of the medieval heart of the city which was incorporated into a fortress by Pope Paul III in his efforts to enforce his control over this traditionally anti-papal city. You will find important Etruscan monuments - the Etruscan Arch, the Etruscan well (near the cathedral) and the Etruscan tombs. The Archaeological Museum of Umbria is behind the church of San Domenico and the National Gallery of Umbria is in the Palazzo dei Priori on the main square. The beautiful Fontana Maggiore is in the same square and the Collegio del Cambio with frescoes by Il Perugino virtually adjoins the gallery. The Church of San Pietro has paintings by II Perugino, Caravaggio and Vasari. Just outside Perugia's largest medieval gate, Porta Sant'Angelo, and not far from the lovely Temple of St. Michael the Archangel, is a beautiful villa where traditional Umbrian cloth is woven on huge handlooms. Beautiful mats, tablecloths, towels etc are sold on the premises. Try the Umbrian wines in the Enoteca in Via U. Rocchi, which runs from the Cathedral down to the University for Foreigners. Umbria Jazz, held in July each year, is one of the most important jazz festival in Europe. Then in September, Perugia hosts the Sagra Musicale Umbra when concerts by Europe's leading orchestras are held in churches throughout the region. The town itself is attractive and easy to walk around. The view from the top over the valley is stupendous. Perugia is an easy drive from Piedipaterno. From the superstrada, follow the signs to the Madonna Alta exit (immediately after one of the tunnels) and proceed to the parking area. Take the minimetro to the centre of Assisitown. It is extremely difficult to drive into or to park in the centro storico. Perugia is very easily accessible by train from Spoleto. Directly outside the train station you will find buses that go straight up the hill to the town centre.

Corcino A lovely walled village just 10 kms from Perugia on the way to Lago Trasimeno. At Christmas, the whole village becomes a life-size nativity scene. The Farmhouse Museum is worth visiting.

Deruta Deruta ceramics are amongst the most famous in Italy. See them being made in the many workshops and factories in the village and visit the Regional Museum of Umbrian Ceramics just off the main square. The town is not particularly pretty, but if you are at all interested in ceramics, it is well worth a visit. There are beautiful homewares that will provide fabulous mementoes of your visit to Italy. One of the factories producing the best quality work (and the most expensive!) is the Grazia factory, which has been in the same family since the 1600s. Aside from its traditional work, this factory also opens its doors to ceramic artists from all over the world and a number of Australians have worked and studied there. Further south down the same road the much cheaper and very rustic Bettini workshop is also worth a visit. In the same area, the nearby village of has an excellent wine museum.

!22 Vallo di Nera Todi

Castiglione del Lago Founded by the Etruscans on the shores of Lago (Lake) Trasimeno the town boasts a wonderful view of the lake from its newly-restored fortress walls. Check out the frescoes in the Della Corgna Palazzo. Kite enthusiasts gather in the village on 1 May each year for the Let’s Paint the Sky Festival. On the southern shore of the lake, heading towards San Feliciano and , is the very rustic and characteristic Caffè del Moro where you can try the local specialities under the pines or near the fire.

L’Isola Maggiore An island in Lago Trasimeno – a lovely place to spend a warm, sunny day. Ferries leave regularly from Passignano. Try the local fish dishes at Sauro’s, the island’s very good restaurant.

L’Isola Polvese Another island in the lake and a lovely place for a picnic – but take it with you – there are no shops on the island! Ferry leaves from San Feliciano.

Arezzo and Cortona Just beyond Lago Trasimeno and actually in Tuscany, both are very beautiful and historically important towns with lots to see. Heading back into Umbria along the road from Arezzo to Citta del Castello you can see Piero Della Francesco’s beautiful Madonna del Parto (the pregnant Madonna) in the tiny, but very pretty, village of MONTERCHI on the Umbrian/Tuscan border.

Todi Without a doubt, one of Umbria’s most beautiful towns. Home to some of Italy’s leading artists and writers and a few years ago voted, by the University of Kentucky, the world’s most liveable town. Don’t miss a chance to dine at the Umbria, with its excellent food and stunning views, the restaurant is just off the main square and behind the Palazzo del Capitano. Another excellent choice is Pane e Vino, on Via Ciuffelli Augusto (between the Duomo and the belvedere), which serves very good Italian food with a contemporary twist. The antique fair in Todi in March/April each year attracts leading dealers from all over Italy.

‘Our highlights have been Norcia, Orvieto, Assisi and Todi…After long day trips it was great to come back & relax, unwind & have a meal & wine in this wonderful villa.’ (Visitors’ Book, October ’08)

!23 Orvieto Gubbio

Gubbio A unique medieval town that was actually founded long before Rome. The Palazzo dei Consoli on the main square is now a museum and it houses the famous Eugubine Tablets, the only surviving record of the Umbrian language. Beautiful buildings and wonderful views are everywhere in Gubbio. Umbrians generally consider the people of Gubbio to be mad and the reason for this is amply demonstrated on 15 May each year when they hold their candle race, the Corso dei Ceri. Gubbio is also famous for its distinctive ceramics – check out Maestro Giorgio on the main square. The Roman amphitheatre below the town is still used for a summer season of classical drama. At Christmas, Monte Ingino, the hill where Gubbio is situated, becomes a giant Christmas tree of lights that can be seen miles away across the valley.

Orvieto A magnificent town of Etruscan origin that is famous for its beautiful cathedral, Etruscan monuments, white wine and good food. A truly fabulous city and cathedral. The Signorelli frescoes in a side chapel of the duomo are breathtaking. Be warned that the duomo closes between 1.00 and 3.00. Don’t miss the Etruscan necropolis and St Patrick’s Well. A tour of the caves under the town is also worthwhile - tickets in the main square opposite the Duomo. Orvieto has some brilliant local artisans, and some excellent ceramics. There is a jazz festival between Christmas and new year, which makes the town buzz with visitors. When dining in Orvieto try an Orvieto Classico with your meal. There is a worthwhile little restaurant with good, unpretentious food called Pozze delle Cave; after eating, you can go down through excavated Etruscan wells, which are genuinely fascinating.

Citta di Castello Situated on the banks of the Tevere (Tiber) in Northern Umbria, this town is not on the main tourist route but has a lot to offer of artistic and historical interest. It has a strong Florentine feel and is renowned for its furniture restorers, antique shops and good quality furniture. The Pinacoteca Communale (municipal gallery), the second most important in Umbria, is located in Palazzo Vitelloni, with a wonderful façade decorated by Giorgio Vasari. Castello is also the permanent home of the Burri collection – Burri was one of Italy’s most famous abstract artists. On the outskirts of town, the Exhibition of Traditional Umbrian Furniture is also worth a visit. mbertide is the quiet, charming village of . At the end of October it hosts the Feast of the Woods, very popular with lovers of wild mushrooms and truffles.

Citta del Pieve On the border of Umbria, Toscana and Lazio and the birthplace of Il Perugino, the great Umbrian artist Pietro Vannucci. In the middle of June there is a Snail Festival and an Infiorata (street designs in flower petals) in the town and there is also a Renaissance Festival, Il Palio dei Terzieri, in mid-August.

!24 Bomarzo Carsulae

Civita di Bagnoregio Civita de Bagnoregio is actually in Viterbo, approximately 190kms west of Spoleto and a drive of an hour and half. It is extraordinary and unique. It was founded by Etruscans more than 2500 years ago, has seen its population dwindle to just fifteen residents over the course of the 20th century, and has only recently been experiencing a revival, due in great measure to renewed international interest and tourism. The town is noted for its striking position atop a plateau of friable volcanic tuff overlooking the Tiber river valley. It is in constant danger of destruction as its edges fall off, leaving the buildings built on the plateau to crumble. The city is also much admired for its architecture, some spanning several thousand years. Civita di Bagnoregio owes much of its unaltered condition to its relative isolation. The saddle of land that once connected it to Bagnoregio disappeared long ago through erosion; it is now connected by a built-up walkway – wear comfortable walking shoes!

Bomarzo Bomarzo is about 35kms south-west of Civita di Bagnoregio. It is worth a diversion in order to visit the Parco di Mostri which is just outside the town. The Parco has been described as a 16th-century theme park – a huge garden filled with large statues and monstrous sculptures designed by the Duke of Orsini. You won’t see anything like it elsewhere! Carsulae Another great place for a picnic, but not on a Sunday – try a week day when with a bit of luck you may be the only people there. Carsulae is actually the ruins of a Roman garrison town on the ancient Via Flaminia, the main road leading north from Rome. Look for the grooves in the road left by Roman carts and chariots. The town was destroyed by an earthquake in Roman times, but the ruins of the temple, the baths, the amphitheatre and some of the houses are still standing. A mystical place where shepherds still graze their flocks and look for wild asparagus in the spring and blackberries in summer. The nearby villages of SAN GEMINI and CESI are definitely worth visiting and you might like to try the San Gemini water at the springs in the park between Carsulae and San Gemini. Bagni di Triponzo

The thermal baths at Triponzo (follow the signs from Borgo di Cerrito - 15 minutes from Piedipaterno) were reopened in 2016 following a major redevelopment. They offer three thermal pools (one outside), sauna, Turkish bath, ice cascade as well as treatments and massages; there is also a restaurant that serves both lunch and dinner. It’s a relaxing and indulgent experience. You will need to have some ID with you - we used our Australian drivers’ licences.

‘We have fallen in love with Umbria. Stunning scenery; delightful people, warm and friendly. Glorious food and wine – what more can you ask for?’ (Visitors’ Book, October ’04)

!25 Csgtelluccio

Beyond Umbria - Southern Tuscany Tuscany, the cradle of modern European culture, contains treasures of every age and style, from the majestic Gothic buildings in the medieval town of Siena, to the exceptional art and architecture of Florence.

You can get to Siena and to Florence in under three hours by car, and information about these towns is too widely available for need to include comment here. There are many guidebooks giving full details of Toscana (Tuscany) but just a few words about some of the area of southern Tuscany easily reached from Piedipaterno may be worthwhile, particularly for those on longer stays. Drives should not take more than 1.5 to 2 hours each way.

Montepulciano One of the highest Tuscan hill-towns, it is a lovely town with great views, interesting squares and some very worthwhile palazzi and churches. It is worth the walk down to the church of San Biagio which lies just outside the town. Most important, it is well-known for its famous Vino Nobile, and you can taste this at various cantine, particularly along the Via Gracciano nel Corso.

Pienza About 10km from Montepulciano and on the way to Montalcino, Pienza is a must-see. It was planned as a Renaissance project by Pope Pius II, although only the main piazza is a product of this project. There are beautiful views, and gorgeous little homes, bars and restaurants. The ‘hanging gardens’ of the Palazzo Piccolomini are worth visiting.

!26 Pitigliano Montalcino

Montalcino Around 20km west of Pienza (and after passing through San Quirci d’Orcia, at the start of the Val d’Orcia) you will come to Montalcino. It is a small town and easy to get around. It is quiet, very 16th century, with a lovely castle overlooking the town. Montalcino is justifiably famous for its wines, notably the noble Brunello – and the Rosso di Montalcino is also worth drinking (and is priced more economically). From here you can arrange vineyard tours – although coming from Australia we didn’t feel any need for this experience. There are plenty of bars and enoteche (see Via Mateotti among others) for wine tasting. To give you some perspective, Montalcino is less than 40km south of Siena.

Pitigliano Another 35 – 40km you will find Pitigliano. You will probably need to leave the car outside the main town, in the Piazza Petruccioli, where you will find the hotel Guastini. There are no other hotels, though there are rooms to rent inside the town proper. From the square you will have a wonderful view of the valley, the mountain on whose side the town is perched and its massive aqueduct – this view is quite stunning at night. Inside is the worthwhile Palazzo Orsini. From there, walk further into the town to Piazza della Repubblica, with a breathtaking panorama at its end. Most interesting is the Jewish ghetto – Pitigliano was well-known for its thriving Jewish community from the 16th century to the mid-20th.

Sovana and Sorano Both little villages are worth a look. Sovana boasts a beautiful 13th century church (Santa Maria) and a lovely five- minute walk to an interesting Duomo. Outside Sorano, well-signposted, you can find a labyrinth of Etruscan caves and tombs cut into the hillside – well worth a look, as it is unique. Unless you have never seen any hot springs, don’t be talked into finding your way to the Terme di Saturnia. We spent some time finding them (arguing about directions despite the GPS) and had to laugh at the disappointing end point.

‘There are so many highlights it is difficult to choose but for us definitely Assisi and Cascia.’ (Visitors’ Book, September ’05)

!27 Restaurants Enjoy one of the greatest pleasures of traveling Italy - eating! ‘Mangiare’ (Eat)!!

Some suggestions follow but see the noticeboard in the entrance hall of the house for further information.

Nearby to Pieditpaterno For when you don’t want to go to Spoleto or to drive more than 15- 20 minutes.

Vallo di Nera Locanda Cacio Re (Drive up to Vallo di Nera and enter the parking area on the left –walk through to Cacio Re.) Wonderful vista from hill-top. Run by husband and wife who take great pride in their food and service, both of which are excellent. Tell them you have been recommended by us. Palombara Il Sovrano (Palombara is the little settlement before the turn-off to the ramp to Spoleto. Follow the signs up the hill to the right.) Excellent restaurant specialising in local produce, including meat cooked ‘alla brace’; truffles; local trout. Excellent wine-list, great outlook. S. Anatolia di Da Franchina (Take the road to the left off Tre Valli in Palombara and follow it up the hill; Narco restaurant is on the left of the first square.) Very good home-style cooking; antipasti and pasta choices are excellent; pizzas are also good. Pampangnano La Ginestra (A couple of kms past the turn-offs to Spoleto going from Piedipaterno to Rome) If you like thin-based pizza, these are the best in the area, with stacks of choice. Il Grottino (in the entry square of the village) – known for its trout – a specialty of the area. Scheggino Osteria Baciafemmine (park the car in the front square, walk over the bridge and follow the signs) Great atmosphere; typical local dishes – possibly not the cheapest around. Hotel del Ponte Scatolini (on the river) – consistently good food and value !28

. Campello sul Il Caminetto (On left hand side of road coming from Spoleto.) Great pizzas and very good Clitunno value. In summer you can sit outside on the terrace. Another popular spot for locals. Borgo Cerreto A Casaletto (An agriturismo on the Norcia road, just before Borgo Cerretto.) Good food; friendly service. Trattoria del Cacciatore (next to EuroSpin supermarket). Traditional, reliable. San Buchetto Ninfa Del Nera (On SS Valnerina, the road that passes Scheggino, on left of road.) Good value local food; can be off-puttingly vacant during winter months. Macenano Ai Tre Archi (On the SS Valnerina, the road that passes Scheggino; 17km from Piedipaterno.) Unpretentious but excellent food, cooked by nonna – try the gnocchi with lamb and what may well be the best pizzas in the area.

Strettura Spoleto Il Madrigale (On the Via Flaminia, 17kms from Spoleto on the way to Rome.) This is a restaurant of the first order. Wonderful location and view; terrific food; first-class service. Go for Sunday lunch and take a healthy appetite. Excellent value and a memorable experience. More like 30 minutes from Piedipaterno, but worth the time.

Spoleto L’Osteria del Matto (Just off Piazza Mercato.) Individual style of proprietor makes this a unique experience. The food is excellent, based on local produce – and menu depends on market and what the cook wants to do. L’Angolo Antico (Via Monterone – on the way out of town from Piazza Mercato.) Excellent for local dishes and for pizza. Dei Pini (Via 3 Settembre – off the roundabout from the Spoleto Nord entry, take Via Flaminia Vecchia behind Conad supermarket and look for sign on left a couple of hundred metres away). Very popular with locals; good value. Ask waiter for offerings rather than for menu – you will pay set price for whole meal including wine, coffee etc Taverna La Laterna (Vicolo della Trattoria – walking up from Piazza della Liberta towards Piazza del Mercato, take the first street on the left.) Good value typical Umbrian food. Tric a Trac (On Piazza Duomo.) Excellent both as wine bar and as restaurant; great location with outdoor seating in summer. Bar Canasta (On Piazza della Liberta) – a restaurant as well as a bar – outside seating in summer months puts you right in a lively centre. Also has excellent gelato. Fresh fish on Thursdays and Fridays. Da Sportellino (Via Cerquiglia – down the street on the right hand side of the Monte dei Paschi Bank.) Good home-style cooking under long-standing family management. Trattoria del Festival (Via Brignone – the street that runs up from Piazza della Liberta to Piazza Mercato.) Very good food. Osteria Vecchio Camino (Walk up the Borgo from P. Garibaldi; turn right at first crossing, 10m. on the right.) Food is excellent;the antipasto della casa certainly worth ordering. Il Tempio del Gusto (Also opposite the Arc of Drusus). Fantastic contemporary Italian cuisine. Well worth a dinner visit. A recommendation by locals that we’ll definitely be visiting again. Due Ponti (Via Marconi – keep following the road as it goes out of town; pizzeria is on the left.) Great casual spot for pizzas as well as wider menu – good value; very local clientele. Pizzeria San Pietro (Take the road past the Church of San Pietro – the one with the steps opposite the entry to Spoleto Sud – and then immediately turn right after the church up a smaller road.) Another excellent local restaurant with great pizzas, pasta etc.

!29

When You’re ‘Out & About’

Norcia The recognised gastronomic centre for salumi, cheeses and truffles. Taverna del Boscaiolo (Via Bandiera.) Good place to try the local specialty of pasta with truffles; very friendly service. Locanda del Teatro (Piazza Vittoria Veneto – square on the left half-way up the main street.) Good value. Perugia La Taverna (Via delle Streghe) L’Altro Mondo (Via Caporali) specialises in local dishes. Il Riciotto (Opposite the entrance to the cathedral) La Piazetta (Via Deliziosa) Da Giancarlo (Via dei Priori) Typically Umbrian. La Bocca Mia (Via U. Rocchi) Aladino (Via delle Prome) Gubbio Montecastelli La Taverna del Lupo Hotel Cappuccini

Foligno Villa Roncalli - excellent restaurant set in a beautiful villa; somewhat difficult to find. Hotel Italia (Piazza Matteotti) Montefalco L’Alchemista (on the main square.) You will need to book in summer - it’s worth it! Il Falisco Il Coccorone Il Verziere (Via Mamelli) A pizzeria and enoteca.

Castelluccio Taverna Castelluccio (Follow signs up the hill from main square.) Very good traditional and local food. Lentils are a specialty of Castelluccio and this is a good place to try them. Cerreto di Hotel Panorama (Follow signs after main square). Great views over the valley – if you Spoleto go in summer, ask for a table on the terrace. Food is good if not especially memorable, and the location is great.

‘Our time in Umbria has been fantastic, and something we will never forget. The culture, the food, the wine, the history, the architecture and the verdant land are simply stunning, but above all we will remember the people.’ (Visitors’ book, June ’08)

!30 L’Isola Maggiore Orvieto

Todi L’Umbria (Just off the main square.) Good food, lovely terrace with wonderful views. Pane e Beve (Via Ciuffelli Augusto; between the Duomo and the belvedere.) Good food, with some interesting twists on the menu which can provide a change from all the ‘typical’ menus.

Orvieto La Grotte dei Funari Maurizio San Giovanale Hotel Maitani Pozzo delle Cava (Via della Cava) Good value; set over Etruscan wells that are worth the visit. Spello Enoteca Properzia. Recommended for lunch and wine tastings - see noticeboard in entry. Please tell proprietors that you have come from us – Carl and Mary, the Australians in Piedipaterno, Val Nerina. Il Molino La Trattoria del Cacciatore La Baita

Trevi Mange e Beve (Really in Borgo Trevi, on the way in to Trevi itself.) A good trattoria, sometimes with live music. Lago Trasimeno Caffe del Moro (On the southern shore of the lake, heading towards San Feliciano and Magione.) Characteristic of the region and popular with locals, quite rustic, very casual. Choose your food and it will be served to you on tables covered with butcher’s paper, either inside or outside in good weather. Food is good; great views. San Feliciano Da Settimio, eastern end of Lago Trasimeno Sul Lugo

L’Isola Maggiore Da Sauro (On an island in Lago Trasimeno; catch the ferry from Passignano.) Try the local fish.

Calvi Dell’Umbria Vissani (On Lake Corbara, between Todi and Orvieto.) In the Michelin guide; very expensive. !31 Map of Local Area Spoleto & Surrounds

!32 Piazza Navona, Rome

Rome Apartment Roma - the eternal city.

Rome (Roma) has endured for over 2,700 years, it is a city with an ambience like no other. Embedded in centuries of history and culture, it is Italy's capital and largest city. In this city a phenomenal concentration of history, legend and monuments coexists with an equally phenomenal concentration of people busily going about their everyday life.

Apartment for Rent Via Onofrio Panvinio 12, 00162 Rome. Lovely, large three bedroom apartment, with living room, study, dining area, kitchen, two bathrooms and laundry room, large quiet terrace and small garden. Sleeps up to six people. Fully furnished, with dishwasher, washing machine, and microwave. Central heating (winer) and air conditioning (summer). There is a doorman (7:30am-1:00pm; 3:00pm-7:30pm), Monday - Saturday. Easily accessible to the major attractions of central Rome. The apartment is located in the ‘quartiere Trieste’, a residential area on a quiet, private street off Via Nomentana.

!33 Trevi Fountain Colosseum

Cost As at January 2008

Monthly Subject to negotiation Weekly € 800 for 1 or 2 persons Plus € 60 for each extra person Daily € 120 for 1 or 2 persons € 170 for 3 or persons € 200 for 5 or 6 persons Minimum charge of 3 nights Cleaning Fee € 80 payable on departure

A bank transfer fee of €21 applies to each transaction and should be added to the amount due at time of payment. Cleaning service during stay is available upon request and at renter's expense. Enquiries to Carl or Mary Ciccarelli or contact owner direct – Prof. Andrea Ciccarelli: [email protected]

Historic Location The apartment is situated across from the medieval Basilica of St. Agnese, one of the first Christian churches in Rome, which houses catacombs and the mausoleum of Santa Costanza (Emperor Constantine's daughter). The apartment is approximately 1.5km from Porta Pia, the city-gate designed by Michelangelo. Via Panvinio is made up of three residential apartment buildings on one side of the street, and three villas surrounded by gardens on the other. The apartment faces the former house of dramatist Luigi Pirandello (which now belongs to the Italian government) and is adjacent to the park of Villa Blanc. This area of the city is marked by several public villas and parks, including Villa Torlonia, Villa Mirafiori, Villa Leopardi and Villa Paganini.

!34 Access to City Centre & Train Station Public transportation is easily accessible, and both the express and local buses are respectively two or four stops away from Porta Pia (60 express and 84 go to Piazza Venezia, 90 express and 36 go to the Train Station, 62 to St. Peter’s), and 10-15 minutes from the station. A taxi stand is 100 metres from the apartment. Within five minutes walk from the apartment there are two major supermarkets, a department store, several specialised local stores, a daily fruit and vegetable market, bakeries, several good restaurants and cafe bars as well as two pharmacies (information listed in the apartment). The closest subway station is in Piazza Bologna (two stops with bus no. 310 or a 10 minute walk), a lovely square where there are many commercial stores and facilities including a Post Office, banks etc. The main campus of the University of Rome, ‘La Sapienza’, can be reached by bus (Number 310 - 15 minutes), while the School of Philosophy and Humanities located in the Villa Mirafiori is only a five minute walk.

!35