EDITOR’S LETTER

This week’s cover comes to you courtesy of the London-based art duo, Gilbert & George. We off ered the artists the opportunity to design your cover and they took to the project like the legends they are. The end result was beardy (a theme of their latest works), creative, strange and provocative — marking 50 years of their partnership in iconoclastic style. ‘Every time we stopped working at fi ve o’clock and we switched on the television, we just saw barbed-wire fencing and beards, all over Europe and all over the world,’ says Gilbert of their work. ‘Fashion beards, bolshie beards, Jewish beards, the uncut beards of the Muslims. But the fencing was more important, the image of barbed wire. We seem FOOD to want to protect ourselves from aliens, from people who don’t fi t in.’ ‘A stroll around EDITOR George adds: ‘Never did humans spend so much on security. That’s the pop-up Southbank Laura Weir new.’ To see more of their work, head to White Cube Bermondsey to 5 Centre Wintertime Market is a great way take in their new exhibition, which opens on 22 November. An (F) to get in the Christmas mood.’ Lily Worcester, deputy beauty word of warning: the article (page 14) contains explicit content. and lifestyle editor Looking at the issue this week, I’m so excited by the mix of articles. Richard Godwin dissects the Streaming Wars (page 31) as the new Hollywood studios — Apple, Amazon, Netfl ix and Facebook — battle it out to dominate the future of fi lm and television. We have a revealing piece about how decent men should navigate the world in a post-Weinstein age (page 23); model Malaika Firth showcases the most sumptuous beauty looks of the season (page 38); and another anniversary comes by way of the 4 Feast section, with the Tart girls submitting their 100th recipe Here are the ES team’s (page 51) for the magazine this week. Enjoy! POLITICS fi ve favourite free ‘PM’s Questions! Yes, on Wednesdays you can watch Theresa May being grilled by things to do in London her opponents in the House of Commons . Either queue up on the day or email your local MP for tickets.’ Nick Howells, deputy chief sub editor

ART ‘I love spending Sunday walking through Trafalgar Square and visiting the National 3 Portrait Gallery — it never fails to inspire me and remind me how brilliant London is.’ Helen Gibson, picture editor

GARDENS ‘Is there anything 2 better than 1wandering around Petersham COMEDY Nurseries and planning ‘Angel Comedy Club is always your dream garden? a winner. Enjoy free comedy The scenery makes for almost every evening at its two perfect (and free) north London venues: The Bill Instagram fodder.’ Murray and Camden Head pubs.’ Natalie Salmon, Emma Woodroofe, social media editor acting art director

Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us: @eveningstandardmagazine @ESmagoffi cial @ESmagoffi cial

Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Emma Woodroofe Fashion features director Katrina Israel

Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Picture editor Helen Gibson Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Features writer Frankie McCoy Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Social media editor Natalie Salmon Beauty editor Katie Service Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester Offi ce administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeff e Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers , Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large)

Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliff e House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web off set by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited Noppatjak Attanon; Alamy. Cover by Gilbert & George 10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 5

CAPITAL GAINS What to do in London

1 BY FRANKIE MCCOY

When Girls Get Ready Together and Take a Group Pic by Alice Skinner 4 HALLS OF FAME New wine ORDER Sod the Raise a glass or six to the supermarket, freshest Beaujolais you deserve to fill Nouveau 2017 (made your shopping from grapes harvested basket at Harrods just weeks before) at Food Halls, which have been Winerama’s Beaujolais newly revamped in a ‘Taste Nouveau party, with Revolution’ that includes a bakery wine-fuelled games, and coffee roastery. Inhale… and be street food and DJs. happy. Opens 14 Nov (harrods.com) Pretty grape. 16 Nov (street feast.com)

5 SOMER-SKATE HOUSE London is awhirl with skates a- carving through pop-up ice rinks; now it’s the turn of Somerset House, with all-new DJ-powered Skate Lates. Tickets from £8.90. 2 3 15 Nov to 14 Jan (somersethouse. HOT TICKET org.uk) A Finnish rooftop sauna is, ’Grammer GIRLS obviously, exactly what the Social media, girl power and art Southbank Centre has always combine in Katy Hessel’s The lacked. Luckily, exactly that Great Women Artists: Women opens on the Queen on Instagram at Mother Elizabeth Roof Terrace this London, which showcases some winter. Phew. Tickets from top female artists who launched £15. 10 Nov to 30 Dec their careers on Insta. Feel (southbankcentre.co.uk) free to @ them. 13-17 Nov (@thegreatwomenartists)

Mad news: SUPER MARKET Bryan Cranston This is not your 6 BREAK A LEG average charity sale, with pre-loved clothes donated Walter White as a by the likes of Kate Moss (right), 7 disenfranchised news Naomi Campbell and Karlie anchor? Such is the case Kloss, and proceeds going to as Bryan Cranston (left) stars as educate girls in Zimbabwe. ‘mad as hell’ Howard Beale in 10-11 Nov. 21 Slingsby Place, Ivo van Hove’s Network at the Covent Garden, WC2 Lyttleton Theatre. Until 24 (vestiairecollective.com) March (nationaltheatre.org.uk)

LAST CHANCE: make a beeline to the Royal Academy’s LOOK AHEAD: once Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland lovely exhibition, Matisse in the Studio, before it closes on has opened on 17 Nov, it’s categorically Christmas. Get hyped 12 Nov (royalacademy.org.uk) (hydeparkwinterwonderland.com) Getty; Alamy; Illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas @ Calugi Jonathan by Illustration Alamy; Getty;

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 7 UPFRONT Laura Craik on seasonal drinking dilemmas, fashion flippers and upskirting

toptober is over and everyone is drinking Teetotal stars: clockwise again. Only they’re getting even more drunk from right, Blake Lively, than before, on less booze, because their Kendrick Lamar, Jennifer Hudson and Eva Mendes tolerance has plummeted. ‘I feel so pissed!’ theyS exclaim after a mouthful of Rioja, knocking over a vase. I never do Stoptober. It’s too drastic. Instead, I follow the 4:3 diet, which is like the 5:2 diet only with portion control replaced by alcohol control. Every week, I have four evenings off booze completely, followed by three evenings on, which means I spend 57.142857 per cent of the year sober, or, to put it another way, 42.857143 per cent of the year drunk. While a man will drink six pints then have a hangover, a woman’s trajectory is less straightforward. If you were to play #WomenDrinkingTogetherBingo, you can probably bet the following phrases would feature heavily on any given night. 1) ‘Just a small top-up, honestly.’ 2) ‘I really can’t have a hangover tomorrow — I have way too much to do.’ 3) ‘I don’t feel pissed at all… [five minutes later] I’m hammered!’ 4) ‘Put that Justin Timberlake song on again.’ We also like to discuss the finer details of our consumption on any given night. “I follow the 4:3 diet, which ‘Bottled beer only — that punch is lethal,’ we’ll say, before being spotted three hours later drinking is like the 5:2 diet only with straight from the pitcher with a straw. portion control replaced November and December are the booziest months by alcohol control” of the year and while party season isn’t upon us yet, it’s looming. Spare a thought for the people who don’t aren’t guaranteed this privilege. Another drink (Blake Lively, Eva Mendes, Jennifer Hudson listing described an ‘H&M x Erdem Proxy and Kendrick Lamar among them — who knew?) yet Service’ costing £768. ‘Getting to the have to listen to the rest of us wanging on about how collection at 3am… proxy fees depend on we ordered gold flares off Asos like nobody else ever items’ retail and hype,’ it said. We’ve all heard drunk-shopped but us. Also, don’t pressure people into about being too posh to push, but too posh to queue? having ‘just one more’, for not everyone’s relationship ‘Proxy buyer’ — it’s a strange way to make a living, with alcohol is straightforward. Between abstinence but apparently a lucrative one. HOT and alcoholism lie a thousand shades of grey. Drink CAMILA CANICOBA because you want to, not because you have to, and #STOPSKIRTINGTHEISSUE Peruvian beauty contestant who, instead always reserve the right not to drink at all. A YouGov poll asked 2,775 of listing her chest adults what constitutes sexual measurement, listed the 2,202 cases of femicide SLY OLD PROXY harassment and found that ‘a reported in her country. Fashion flipping is nothing new: when it comes man trying to take a photo up a to designers’ limited-edition collections for woman’s skirt’ was deemed the H&M, it’s standard to see the thing you really most offensive act, with 96 per NOT wanted selling on eBay for several times the cent of respondents agreeing. More vindication, if GREEN JUICE It’s all about cherry juice price shortly after launch. Browsing on eBay any were needed (which, duh, it isn’t), for Gina Martin this week, after the morning after the Erdem frenzy below( ), I (right), who has been campaigning for ‘upskirting’ to researchers found it could extend sleep by 84 spied a new development. ‘I CAN GET YOU be made a sexual offence since July, after a stranger precious minutes. ALMOST ANY ITEM IN YOUR SIZE FROM stuck his hands between her legs during a music ERDEM COLLABORATION!’ festival in London, took a crotch shot then sent it to claimed one seller. ‘100% his friends who were standing nearby. Martin genuine, I will be able to managed to snatch his phone and find a Alexa Chung provide receipts if nearby police presence, but was told there in Erdem required.’ How? Even ‘wasn’t much they could do’. Search X H&M the VIPs invited to #stopskirtingtheissue for details on the pre-launch how to sign her petition. Josh Shinner; Getty; Alamy; Eyevine Alamy; Getty; Shinner; Josh

8 ES MAGAZINE 10.11.17

THE most WA N TED

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FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town

BY FRANKIE MCCOY PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES PELTEKIAN

Amber Iman Le Bon Allana Penny Lane Edward Enninful

Maddi Waterhouse and Suzy Stefano Isabel Getty Menkes Gabbana SO DOLCE, Knightsbridge March of the millennials, as Harrods launched its Dolce & Gabbana Christmas extravaganza Viscountess Weymouth with a flower-drenched catwalk and Jack Tess Ward show of Flashbulb’s favourite party Guinness people in the food hall. Amber Le Bon, Rafferty Law and Jack Guinness waltzed past lobsters, chocolate truffles and Kylie Lady Alice Minogue, a million selfies were Manners Pixie Lott Iris Law and snapped, and everyone descended Kylie Minogue on Restaurant Ours for a pasta and Pixie Lott-fuelled after-party.

Eves Jade Jagger Karydas Professor and Lee Green Starkey Carla Ciffoni and Linde Molly Molly Derickx Moorish Betty Bachz Goddard and Laura Hayden BOUTIQUE BASH, Shoreditch Kudos to Mayka Merino who, Skepta on a busy Halloween night Roksanda Ilincic across town, found time to Joséphine pop into the Browns East de la warehouse party dressed as Baume a bloody skeleton. Tattoos India Rose were handed out like candy Mayka James and Professor Green Merino COSTUME DRAMA, ended up dancing on Lottie a car after one too many Moss Mayfair Ben shots of shamanistic cacao. Grimes Tramp was awash with Scary stuff. fake blood and Cîroc for Fran Cutler’s Fran epic Halloween bash Cutler where a bloody Lottie Jana Sascha Moss rubbed batwings with Haveman Sandra Choi Joséphine de la Baume and Caroline Skepta came holding a pot Rush plant. We didn’t know he was so green-fingered. Holli Rogers

GO TO EVENINGSTANDARD.CO.UK⁄ESMAGAZINE FOR MORE PARTY PICTURES 10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 13 DOUBLE

As superstar artists Gilbert & George celebrate 50 years of working together with a collector’s cover for ES , Nick Curtis meets two national treasures

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOBIAS LEWIS THOMAS Vision

14 ES MAGAZINE 10.11.17

or serious artists, Gilbert & George don’t half giggle a lot. The duo, full names Gilbert Proesch and George Passmore, celebrate 50 years of living and working F together this month with a show at White Cube gallery in Bermondsey. The new works, The Beard Pictures, feature the artists as digitally manipulated, brightly coloured and extravagantly bearded troglodytes wandering through a world of fences, barbed wire and concrete, rather than with burqas and amyl nitrate capsules (as in 2013’s Scapegoating Pictures) or exposing their anuses alongside massive turds (1994’s The Naked Shit Pictures). So perhaps mindful of their reputation for controversy — though George claims they ‘never set out to shock’ — they are also showing The Fuckosophy. They describe this as a philosophical way of ‘feeling through life’ in a language everyone can understand, and it involves adding the word ‘fuck’ into a huge series of phrases that they will meticulously write on White Cube’s walls. (Reader, if you are sensitive to profanities you may wish to avert your eyes.) Sitting in their studio, a former factory linking their two not-quite-adjacent Huguenot houses in Spitalfields, they are in their trademark tweed suits and matching ties. Gilbert, 74 and from South Tyrol in Italy, is in green and is tittering as brown-suited George, 75 and from Devon, reads out the invitation to their post private-view party. ‘Fucking dinner with fucking Gilbert & George at fucking White Cube gallery,’ he says in his politely vicar-like tones. He looks up. ‘You start with the fucking soup, you move on to the fucking fish and then the fucking main course.’ And presumably you end up with the fucking nuts, I say, laughing. He looks up and blinks owlishly at me: ‘Why is it funny?’ ‘Everyone is amused by it,’ Gilbert chortles. ‘It has a certain freedom. I know how juvenile it is.’ But is it supposed to say something beyond being juvenile, I ask? ‘Well, we are not juveniles,’ says Gilbert. George adds: ‘We didn’t think of it as juvenile, as children are not allowed to swear, are they?’ Now that they’ve finished The Fuckosophy they are working on The Godology — ‘God stinks. Dear sweet God. God and the scaffolder. God is

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 15 Hirsute pursuit: the artists reveal invitations to The Beard Pictures opening, including works from their show

gays; globalists who embrace Brexit; monkish moralists who decry religion; conservative iconoclasts. If it’s a pose, it long ago obliterated whatever the drab ‘reality’ of their life was, and if it’s a joke it’s an excellent one, and it’s on us (one of their pictures, Sex Money Race Religion, sold the day before our interview for nearly £1m). Even at its most childlike or scatological, their work touches on truth, including The Beard Pictures. ‘Every time we stopped working at five o’clock and we switched on the television, we just saw barbed-wire fencing and beards, all over Europe and all over the world,’ says Gilbert. ‘Fashion beards, bolshie beards, Jewish beards, the uncut beards of the Muslims. But the fencing was more important, the image of barbed wire. We seem to want to protect ourselves from aliens, from people who don’t fit in.’ George adds: ‘Never did humans spend so much on security. That’s new.’ Gilbert: ‘In Europe we created utopia for ourselves, and everyone wants a part of that. North “THE WORLD IS MUCH NICER AND America is the same.’ GENTLER NOW. [GAY] PEOPLE The pictures are like irreligious stained DON’T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT glass, part of their ongoing protest against THE POLICE. EXTRAORDINARY” God. Gilbert & George think Islam is more dangerous ‘at the moment’ than other faiths, but view the atrocities committed in Gilbert & George phooey,’ etc — after which ‘we can’t think of anything else. its name as part of a continuum that includes the outside their Spitalfields townhouse. Below, the Until we do. Maybe we won’t.’ Inquisition and the Crusades. ‘It’s the same God,’ says pair with Ronnie Wood This is vintage G&G, a seamless demonstration of Gilbert, who was raised Catholic in a family of the act — or the life, or the ongoing artwork — that they shoemakers. George was brought up Methodist in Totnes have honed and polished since 1967, when they met at by a single mother who gave him elocution lessons: his Central Saint Martins, or perhaps since 1970, when older brother became an evangelical Christian preacher they put on suits, painted their faces and became and ‘briefly’ converted their father. Both studied art at a ‘living sculptures’, singing along to Flanagan and variety of schools before making it to London where they Allen’s ‘Underneath the Arches’ performing The found the Sixties swinging, a wealth of architectural and Singing Sculpture in the Nigel Greenwood artistic fascination, and each other. Gallery. Their art and their joint persona is Was the initial attraction physical or intellectual? ‘It’s indivisible and thrives on contradiction. They simple,’ says Gilbert. ‘I couldn’t speak very good English are buttoned-up exhibitionists; straight-laced and George took an interest. That was it. We met in Getty Images Getty

The besuited pair with fellow artist Tracey Emin and, right, in their Spitalfields studio

September and in October, November we walked the streets and started to talk about London and art.’ Although they refuse to see a distinction between gay and straight, London in 1967 was less friendly to two besuited men cohabiting. ‘It was just after partial decriminalisation [of homosexuality],’ says George. ‘It used to be very aggressive. ‘We went to a café here for 30 years but at the beginning the market porters tried to keep us out. Wolf whistles, all that stuff. The world is much nicer and gentler now. People don’t have to worry about the police. Extraordinary.’ They both still proudly describe themselves as ‘lower class’: their smartness and politeness was in part a riposte to the slovenly, hippyish, middle- “WE ARE NOT BUYING SCOTTISH TWEED SINCE THAT class art students they met at Saint Martins. And they REFERENDUM. WHY WOULD THE SCOTTISH WANT TO retain a working-class work ethic: George gets up at 5am every day to read (‘South African history at the BREAK UP THE UNION WITHOUT ASKING EVERYBODY?” moment’), they go out for breakfast, then they work until 5.30pm when they watch Heartbeat to ‘wipe the woman who live on their doorstep and deliver their mind’. They buy drip-dry shirts and ‘knickers’ in bulk Evening Standard every day. at M&S and purchase ‘100 rolls of lavatory papers, 100 Their suits used to be made by local tailors but most of bars of soap, 100 tubes of toothpaste, one dozen catering those businesses have closed. Now a Greek Cypriot, cans of instant coffee’ once a year. Nicholas of London, runs the suits up out of Irish tweed. They eat out for every meal, going to Mangal 2 in ‘We are not buying any more Scottish tweed since that Dalston each night if it’s just them, La Chapelle or referendum,’ says George. ‘Why would the Scottish want Wright Brothers if they are entertaining. The house to break up the Union without asking everybody? they live in, which they initially rented for £16 a month Stubble trouble: below, Disgraceful.’ They are on chummy terms with local and bought in 1973 for £22,000, famously doesn’t have Bearding Along, 2016, Muslim shopkeepers and waiters. They still feel, despite and bottom, Mint a proper kitchen. It is narrow, immaculately panelled Beards, 2015 encroaching gentrification on all sides, that the East End and full of gorgeous but unfashionable Sir Edmund is a microcosm of the world, which is why Elton pottery and furniture by Pugin, Godwin and they barely leave. They only ever go on Eastlake. Their other house, two doors down, is less holiday at Christmas, to the Med, though cluttered and contains a velvet throne they made, they travel to overseas exhibitions. embroidered with a large pubic louse. The studios They are passionate Europeans but behind are clean, factory-like spaces. There are rows of believe Brexit will be good for the their books and DVDs, a couple of naïve pictures given country. ‘The most European place in to them by a local Iranian, and some very camp photos the world is London,’ says George. ‘But from a nearby pub’s ‘moustache night’. it is not Europe, it is global,’ says Gilbert. Back in 1970 their decision to turn themselves into ‘Europe — we mean the common living sculptures was a rejection of ‘a formalistic art market, the EEC — is protectionist in based on shapes and colours’ but also some ways. Everybody should be allowed in or out.’ a way of embracing the fact that they ‘Art is global anyway,’ says George. ‘European art is were outsiders with no models, no in some ways in decline,’ says Gilbert, laughing again. studio, no money. They talk about a They think Theresa May is doing a good job. ‘We ‘human’ art and for all their like her, although when we met her she ran away,’ strangeness they are populists, with a says Gilbert. They like Michael Gove, too (‘very sharp common touch. They get on well with in his understanding’) and Jacob Rees-Mogg. ‘I like all classes and nationalities, from the that he is a very clear speaker,’ says George. sweary builders who inspired The They are less keen on other artists and the art estab- Fuckosophy to the homeless man and lishment. They are uncomfortable with the Tate’s divi- Getty Images Getty

18 ES MAGAZINE 10.11.17

Bronze ambition: Gilbert sion of art into modern and & George, left, performing British (though they had a Tate their career-making The exhibition in 2007). ‘We don’t Singing Sculpture in 1970 like the separation,’ says Gilbert, Through the roof: at their Spitalfields house in 1986, ‘the racial divide. We hate that. below, and in 1987, right You have modern art and your so-called English art, and that’s not right.’ They stopped socialis- ing with other artists in 1979. ‘We don’t want to be socially involved. We were friends with all the artists in London, Paris and New York. And Dusseldorf. Then we stopped one day because we didn’t like the gossip. And the talking about money. So we gave them up. And it’s much better since. We will say good morning to anyone, but that’s it,’ says George. They claim they are shunned by the wider ‘frowning classes’ of ‘intolerant liberals’. They never go to exhibi- tions and rarely to parties, and deal with their post with ‘a big shredder’. Although they have one assistant, Yigang Yu, who has been with them since the 1990s, they are snippy about artists who use battalions of helpers to create work. Gilbert & George make, pay for and install all their own work. ‘We have always said we have two main privileges,’ says George. ‘One is to come out of the house, G&G on the bus in 1997 and, walk through the yard into the studio and inset, with White Cube make whatever pictures we want. We don’t founder Jay Jopling in 2012 have to check with anyone. The second privilege is to take them out into the world: because their legs get tired 60 pictures to Spain, 20 to New York. Nobody and they underwent a civil can say anything.’ Gilbert says: ‘Roughly, we partnership in 2008 to can do what we want — not completely, but ensure that if one of them more than anyone else, we believe.’ dies, their artworks would But the future must be thought of. They revert to the survivor. They no longer walk all the way to Mangal 2 claim it is ‘far too early’ to talk about mortality but they are planning their “THE MOST EUROPEAN PLACE IN legacy. For many years they have paid themselves an THE WORLD IS LONDON. BUT IT IS annual salary of £40,000 each, and the rest of their earnings has gone into their foundation. NOT EUROPE, IT IS GLOBAL” Recently, Gilbert says, the foundation purchased ‘a small, old-fashioned 18th-century brewery next to The Pride of Spitalfields free house just off Brick Lane. You walk in there and it is like a magic garden and we [will] try to keep that, because it is extraordinary.’ His architect nephew is converting the premises, which will eventually provide 3,000 square feet to house their artworks. ‘Why?’ says Gilbert. ‘Because the Tate never shows our work and they will never, because nothing is good enough for them.’ George adds: ‘We tell our young friends we are doing it because we want to be immoral. They say, “Don’t you mean immortal?” I say, also please, that too.’ Gilbert & George: The Beard Pictures And Their Fuckosophy is at White Cube Bermondsey from 22 November. ‘The Beard Pictures’ (White Cube Publishing) and ‘What is Gilbert & George’ (Heni), £9.99 each, out now. Rex Features; Getty Images

MEN BEHAVING BADLY With accusations of harassment emerging everywhere from Hollywood to Westminster, the battle of the sexes has taken a new turn. So how can you make sure you’re being a decent bloke in 2017? Redefine masculinity altogether, says Richard Benson

o be honest,’ says majority of emerging stories are about assaults and rapes Dom, a 32-year-old rather than unwelcome passes, and that women can tell management con- the difference. sultant from What he’s talking about is the poisoning of the T Wanstead, ‘ and the atmosphere between men and women, ‘ physical side isn’t a and how that makes him worry that even his innocuous problem. I’d never have groped the knee comments sound a bit predatorial. When rich and of a woman from work or anything any- shameless sleazebags have used the same excuses to get way. But now a lot of those little vague girls on their own, does it sound dodgy to suggest that things you might have suggested to some- you and a workmate pop outside the pub to share a quick one at work who you liked, like, “Let’s go social smokers’ fag? When people claim that date rape and talk about it in the pub,” or whatever, they sound like drugs have been used to spike drinks even at Pestminster, lines Harvey Weinstein or someone could have used. You do you give off a Possible Creep vibe just offering to buy hope women can tell the difference, but it’s also how you a round of Sauvignon Blancs? feel saying it, innit? You let your arm brush against hers Yes, these are first-world problems. And yes, talking and you’re thinking, “Oh no!” Does that seem like the about them runs the risk of making the debate about first stage of sex pestering, or am I overthinking it?’ Poor Men again, when it needs to be about victims. But It is 9pm in a bar in the City, and Dom (not his real this stuff still matters, because in London so many name) is trying to describe the challenges of being ‘just a relationships begin at work. Sure, in the countryside you decent bloke’ in 2017. To be clear, he is not saying, as John might get introduced to someone drinking in the village Humphrys cringingly did to William Hague on the Today tavern or whatever people do there, but the capital has a programme this week, that the increasing awareness of far higher proportion of single people of working age sexual harassment will make men afraid of asking women than the rest of Britain, and offices are social hubs. For out. Like most men with brains, he knows the vast the shy and tongue-tied Londoner, getting pissed and

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 23 “You let your arm brush against hers and you’re clumsily snogging someone News. ‘Men are really ready from another department in thinking, “Oh no!” to be a little bit redefined!’ the pub on Friday nights are Redefined as what, though? what balls and dancing were Do es that seem like the She didn’t say. But it’s a fair to Jane Austen. Definite bet that had anyone put figures are hard to come by, first stage of SEX forward some positive but in US cities between one PESTERING, or am I masculine values — discipline, and two people in 10 meet rational problem solving, their future spouse through OVERTHINKING it?” concentration, restraint, work, and it’s hard to imagine extrospection, perhaps — a the London numbers being any lower. (And no bad female contributor would have surely, and correctly, thing: relationships that begin at work are far more pointed out that women could embrace those values, too. likely to end in lasting marriage than those that start on As a culture we have become uneasy with the idea that social occasions.) there is anything good about ‘traditional’ masculinity, unless it’s seen at a distance. That is why so many TV o knowing how to behave is important if programmes with a contemporary setting are full of we’re going to get along, but it’s also creepy or ineffectual men Doctor( Foster, The Fall, Happy important for its own sake. The past few Valley) and the ones with traditionally strong men (Game weeks have been genuinely shocking for a of Thrones, superhero films, Life on Mars) are all in the Slot of men to learn from women the extent fantasy, sci-fi and time-travel genres. And why manly and extremity of workplace harassment. heroes with a more modern sort of manhood (David It’s also been hard to know what to say about it when Beckham, Ryan Gosling, Stormzy, Harry Styles) are said some critics have accused men of being too silent. For me, to have become more modern by being in touch with their that’s because when I hear the other, less violent, ‘feminine sides’, as if there were not enough good to be misdemeanours mentioned — the talking-over in had in traditional maleness. Think of how daft it would meetings, the ‘mansplaining’, the patronising attitudes sound if we were told that Lena Dunham or Cara and the rest of it — I have to be honest, and say: I know I Delevingne were modern because they had embraced have been guilty of those things, I will listen more and their ‘masculinity’. try to be better. So if, as a man, you think about all this, you can end up As Dom says: ‘Most men don’t actively want to be in a bit of a quandary. And that doesn’t help those of us wankers, do they? A lot of them want to be more who are best represented not by the powerful grabbers and enlightened. But sometimes you need to be told what gropers but by the tongue-tied, awkward English people [by that he really means women] want.’ archetype such as Hugh Grant in Love, Actually, or Trevor And when it comes to ‘what people want’, things can Howard in Brief Encounter (ask your nan). This is a nation, be confusing for a man trying to do the right thing in remember, whose greatest male romantic film hero, Mr 2017. Because while it’s very clear from the media that Darcy, declared his feeling for the love of his life by men and masculinity have a lot of toxic problems, it’s jumping fully clothed into a pond. We need guidance. pretty much impossible to find anyone talking about masculine virtues that we should be playing up. These nd the fact is, nothing about dividing days, referencing and celebrating ‘feminine’ values is virtues between men and women helps. routine and widely accepted: ‘Feminine Values Can Give When it comes to the real challenges in Tomorrow’s Leaders an Edge’, declared a Harvard life — hard things, such as sticking with Business Review story, listing the most important values A relationships in the bad times, being kind as expressiveness, planning for the future, reasonableness, to people who don’t deserve it and loyalty, flexibility, patience, intuition and collaboration. admitting you were wrong — neither ‘masculine’ nor There’s nothing wrong with that of course, at least not ‘feminine’ qualities will aid us at all. That takes qualities until you ask what the corresponding ‘masculine’ values that are really worth having, like bravery, self-assurance, are meant to be. substance and integrity, and those, thank God, tend to be In October, as the scandals over alleged harassment gender-free. My hope is not so much that we redefine rumbled on from Weinstein to Kevin Spacey and on to manhood — though obviously the harassment must stop, Westminster, several TV news programmes covered a and men have to shut up and start listening more — but new University College London/Harris report on that one day we will transcend the whole stupid, 19th- modern men. While all the interviewees cheerily agreed century gender nonsense altogether. One of the many that men were changing, no one ever said into what they reasons to despise Donald Trump, Weinstein and the rest were supposed to be changing. ‘I read it and I was so is that they have pushed that day a long way back for me, excited,’ said one thrilled female commentator on Sky you, Dom and everyone else.

24 ES MAGAZINE 10.11.17

THEORY blazer, STYLE NOTES £525, at net-a- porter.com What we love now LOEWE card holder, £625 (loewe.com) EDITED BY KATRINA ISRAEL

M&S COLLECTION coat, £99 (marks COS scarf, £49 andspencer.com) (cosstores.com) Craft CLASS Jonathan Anderson found inspiration in the archives of British textile designer William COMME DES Morris for his latest Loewe GARÇONS wallet, £129, collaboration, which reinterprets at doverstreet Morris’s Honeysuckle and market.com. Strawberry Thief prints across autumnal accessories and clothing. Liberty, the emblematic of William Morris, will hold a special pop-up from 15 November to 24 December to cel- ebrate. (loewe.com)

LOEWE hammock CHECK, PLEASE bag, £1,350 You’d have to be clueless to (loewe.com) have missed this AW memo. Cross check your winter Spiritual wardrobe with plenty of plaid. HEARING Here’s our colourful edit that Protect your even Cher and Dionne (above) aura with east would totally endorse. TOPSHOP London jeweller skirt, £55 (topshop.com) Gala Colivet Dennison’s agate earrings. GALA COLIVET DENNISON earrings, £475 ZARA shirt, (galacolivetdennison.com) £24.99 (zara.com) InSTARglam With the patience of a saint, Austrian photographer Stefan Draschan hangs around galleries matching people to artworks @Stefandraschan SELF PORTRAIT trousers, £220 (self- portrait-studio.com)

PAPER Erika LONDON coat, Boldrin £495 (paper london.com)

A visitor spotted BURBERRY at Paris sandals, £550 Fashion (uk.burberry.com) Week Jess Cole Follow us at @eveningstandardmagazine Getty

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 27

MEN’S STYLE BIG What to buy now BEN’S BY TEO VAN DEN BROEKE, STYLE DIRECTOR OF ESQUIRE UK bit on the side Foot LIGHTS In addition to being the creative Ben Machell sings director of low-key Italian luxury the praises of the brand Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier unsung suburbs has his own eponymous label, produc- ing brilliantly understated basics. This went to Surbiton for the very first time in my autumn, the softly spoken German life recently. It was brilliant! One minute you’re designer has teamed up with Puma to trying to cross the concourse at Waterloo PUMA X create a limited-edition sneaker, the without having to resort to medieval weaponry, TOMAS MAIER Roma 1968, taking inspiration from a then the next thing you know you’re on a train which, sneakers, £120 I (tomasmaier.com) trainer the sportswear giant released in no time at all, drops you off at a place that looks half a century ago. Retro, low slung like something from a Ladybird book about and embossed with Maier’s signature pleasingly anonymous dormitory conurbations. palm tree logo, these bad boys are I knew I was still in London but it wasn’t London indoor wear only until March. London. There was a high street. Old people. Vacant

KENT & CURWEN blazer, parking spaces. I went to a café and the coffee was £995 (020 7240 6618) Trousers, £345 Top, £135 unspecific and milky, the kind you get in a care home and just how I like it. I was served an egg-mayonnaise sandwich. On normal bread! I don’t think they serve egg-mayonnaise sandwiches inside zones 1-3. They do in Surbiton. I felt at ease. For the first time in months, nobody did a double-take at my anorak. “I don’t think they serve egg-mayo sandwiches inside zones 1-3” Over the years, I have developed an appreciation GOLDEN HALLS for the hinterlands of Greater London. For a long Kent & Curwen has been producing classic British men’s apparel for time I was snobby about places that couldn’t boast almost a century. Last year, however, at the hands of David Beckham the heady glamour of a Tube stop, but experience has and creative director Daniel Kearns, the label was given a much-needed proved me so wrong. I once, for example, spent the injection of modernity, producing sports-influenced tailored pieces with weekend with English Civil War re-enactors in a focus on quality. This month, the brand opens a new flagship store on Waltham Abbey, just off the M25, and had the time Covent Garden’s Floral Street. As well as all the core items (such as of my life. I can’t go to Croydon without feeling a the peg-leg trouser and the classic rugby shirt), there will also be a warm pang of familiarity: change people’s accents series of exclusive pieces available such as the new bullion blazer, and triple the number of Greggs and it could be any

Jonny Cochrane; Josh Shinner Josh Cochrane; Jonny which is inspired by the label’s long collegiate history. number of mid-sized Northern towns. I’ve got nothing but good things to say about New Malden ever since I won a laser-tag tournament there. WEST IS BEST Snigger all you want, but is there laser tag in We love a bit of homegrown Dalston? Or Brixton? I don’t think so. talent here at ES, and when it Where else? I once had to abandon a train near comes to menswear, Brit Chertsey. It was dark and wet and we all had to designer Oliver Spencer is the walk down the tracks for what seemed like cream of the crop. Known for a mile. When we finally got to the station, his boxy worker jackets, wide- a few of the passengers suggested going OLIVER legged judo pants and ultra- SPENCER X for a curry while we waited for the comfortable granddad shirts, DAVID AUSTEN replacement bus service. I went along and T-shirts, £65 Spencer has recently opened (oliverspencer. it was probably the best meal I’ve ever had. his sixth store on Notting co.uk) Chertsey. I adopted my cat from a Hill’s Kensington Park Road. To celebrate the launch, Spencer shelter in Enfield and… speaking of which, has teamed up with artist David Austen to create a run of have you ever been to the garden centre at limited T-shirts (to be sold exclusively in the store). The space Crews Hill? Makes other garden centres look like also plays host to a range of Austen’s light sculptures, which trash. I could go on. London’s great. But Greater are available to buy on request. London’s not bad either. Not bad at all.

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 29

ILLUSTRATION BY ANNA BU KLIEWER

ast month, Apple made an announcement that may prove even more significant than the animoji function on the new STREAM iPhone X. The world’s most valuable if L company (it has $262 billion just chilling in the bank) announced that it is going to you want to go spend $1 billion on content for its streaming service, Apple TV. One woman who will be doing a lot of that spending is Jay Hunt, newly poached from Channel 4. She’s the woman who bought The Great British Bake Off from the BBC for £75 million, who launched Gogglebox, FASTER Catastrophe and Black Mirror, and who was responsible for Luther and Sherlock — and thus turbocharging the With Apple pumping a cool $1 billion into careers of Idris Elba and Benedict Cumberbatch — when she was head of BBC1. original content and Netflix plotting even more be a formidable piece of weaponry for a TV shows for next year, Richard Godwin looks at how service whose big hit to date is Planet of the Apps (no, me the small screen became seriously big business neither). But Apple TV has also secured Jamie Erlicht

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 31

“NETFLIX HAS 80 ORIGINAL MOVIES SLATED FOR 2018 — MORE THAN WARNER BROS, DISNEY AND UNIVERSAL PICTURES COMBINED”

Clockwise from left, Orange is the New Black; Apple CEO Tim Cook; Jay Hunt, who has joined Apple TV

and Orange is the New Black 7(!), all due. Netflix CEO Reed Hastings recently announced a third quarter of rising subscriber numbers (up 5.3 million to 109.3 million worldwide) and celebrated his ascent to the Forbes 400 list of the richest Americans with an estimated net worth and Zack Van Amburg (who brought Breaking of $2.2 billion. He recently commissioned four Adam Bad to our screens) from Sony, signed up Sandler movies. Why? Computer says yes. Steven Spielberg to revive his Amazing Stories ‘Netflix is without a doubt the most talked about at $5 million an episode, and there are wild (ie company in Hollywood,’ says Matthew Belloni, editorial eight-figure) rumours flying around about the director of The Hollywood Reporter. (Not entirely true: amount it’s bidding for Jennifer Aniston and almost every actor and writer I reach out to can’t talk Reese Witherspoon’s show about a pair of rival about it as they don’t want to jinx the series they’re pitching morning TV hosts. to Netflix.) ‘The fact a Silicon Valley company that didn’t produce any original shows five years ago is now spending till, $1 billion on content? That’s billions on original content at a time when the traditional chump change next to the $2.5 studios are pulling back is extraordinary,’ he says. billion that US streaming giant Hulu spent It’s tempting to compare the landscape in these early on content in 2017 (and the company has days of the Streaming Wars to pre-First World War Salready won an Emmy for The Handmaid’s Europe — only the outcome will (hopefully) be a lot more Tale). And that sum pales next to the $4.5 entertaining. Here are the Imperial powers of the digital billion that Amazon Prime has spent on originals such as era, itching to exploit their new technology, prepared to Transparent and The Man in the High Castle. Mark dig deep in an economic war of attrition. Only you wonder Zuckerberg wants in on the streaming game too: if they know what they’re letting themselves in for. Facebook is trialling its Watch service in the US. And Apple has signalled a desire to create dramas and then there’s Netflix, which has laid down $6 billion on comedies with ‘broad appeal’; CEO Tim Cook is 1,000 hours of original content this year and wants to notoriously prudish and according to reports, delayed the spend $8 billion in 2018. The jump alone is what HBO — release of Carpool Karaoke as he didn’t like its foul for years the benchmark in quality TV — spends on language and references to vaginas. Facebook Watch programmes in a year. hopes to exploit its interactive features à la Facebook What does $8 billion buy? Well, Netflix has 80 original Live, but its mission statement feels like precisely the sort movies slated for 2018, which is more than Warner Bros, of thing a techie would come up with. Apparently we can Disney and Universal Pictures combined. It has original look forward to ‘shows that engage fans and community’ series in German, Danish, Polish, Swedish, Spanish, TV players: Netflix and ‘shows that follow a narrative arc or have a consistent CEO Reed Hastings, Italian and French, plus 30 Japanese anime projects Steven Spielberg and theme’. Netflix, meanwhile, wants to be all things to all planned, signalling its plans for global domination. It Mark Zuckerberg people, says Belloni. ‘They want a show that’s going to recently bought up the comic book publisher appeal to hipster thirty-somethings. They want a Millarworld with a view to creating its own show that’s going to appeal to African-American superhero universe. It should be able to absorb women. They want Adam Sandler movies too. the end of its signature series, House of Cards They’re trying to win every single category. And (already planned before stories of star Kevin when you do that you’re going to spend and Spacey’s sexual assault allegations surfaced), spend and spend.’ with Stranger Things 3, Bojack Horseman 5 In many ways, Hastings — a cerebral Getty; Rex Getty;

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 33

Rivals to the streaming throne: clockwise from left, Netflix’s The Crown and Bojack Horseman; Amazon’s Transparent

watch? Why not binge on what you want right now? ‘Netflix has become a bit like this utility in people’s homes,’ is how Brit Marling, creator and star of The OA puts it to me. ‘You have your electricity and your gas and your water, and then you have this storytelling utility.’ It was only in 2012 that Netflix began producing its own content. ‘The aim is to become HBO before HBO becomes us,’ chief content officer Ted Sarandos said just before he dropped the first series ofHouse of Cards, having paid $100 million for the first two seasons. Now the series dump has become standard practice. Even the “NETFLIX HAS BECOME LIKE A UTILITY… YOU BBC made Top of the Lake: China Girl available in one go. HAVE ELECTRICITY, GAS AND WATER, AND While Netflix is notoriously THEN YOU HAVE THIS STORYTELLING UTILITY” reluctant to release ratings, it does proudly offer a list of its most ‘binge-raced’ shows, but down-to-earth 57-year- which it defines as the ones fans old, who lives outside San watch the whole of within 24 Francisco with his wife, two hours of them appearing on the teenage children, and some service. Gilmore Girls is chickens and goats — is currently at the top. Is it different from the average healthy to watch an entire tech CEO. He’s celebrated in series in one go? Who cares! Silicon Valley for a Netflix’s lack of transparency PowerPoint presentation over its ratings is one way it causes resentment among detailing the company traditional studios. Another is its lack of profitability: culture of ‘freedom and Netflix has accumulated $20 billion-odd in debt in its responsibility’. Facebook’s rapid expansion; HBO actually makes money but receives Sheryl Sandberg (of Lean In a fraction of the attention. And meanwhile, it’s getting fame) has lauded this as ‘the ever harder for British companies to compete as ‘content’ most important document ever to come out of the prices become ever more inflated. Craig Holleworth, a Valley’ — it stresses that Netflix has no space for senior BBC commissioner, recently warned: ‘I wonder ‘brilliant jerks’, it doesn’t throw huge parties and unless when the bubble will burst. At some point it probably will. your boss would ‘fight’ to keep you, you will be given a About five years ago, we could make a programme for £1 ‘generous severance package’ and told to go home. million. Now they’re costing two, three, four million.’ Employees are trusted to set their own holidays and new Case in point: series one of Netflix’s The Crown was the parents are allowed to take ‘whatever time they feel is most expensive series ever made at £100 million. Series right’ in the first year of their child’s life. Which sounds two is said to have cost £200 million. commendably grown-up. The tech titans justify all this cash spend by pointing not to ratings but to daily active users. Series such as ut Netflix has also followed the classic Transparent or Orange is the New Black are loss-leaders,

Silicon Valley disruption playbook. It Praise be: Emmy winner, designed to encourage new subscribers to sign up to a began life in 1997 as a Bay Area DVD The Handmaid’s Tale platform and stay there. It’s especially worth it for rental business and ‘pivoted’ to Amazon, because once you’re locked into Prime, Bstreaming in 2007, providing shows you’re more likely to buy your underpants and on demand and short-circuiting what your breakfast cereals from Amazon, too. The Hastings calls the ‘managed dissatisfaction’ of the same will be true of Apple TV. Disney, meanwhile, TV schedules. Why wait until 8pm on a has ended its distribution deal with Netflix with a Wednesday to watch your favourite show? Why view to creating its own streaming channel — and pay for hundreds of TV channels you never considering Disney owns Pixar, Marvel Studios Capital Picture Capital

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 35

Eat your eyes out: above, Netflix’s most-binged show, Gilmore Girls; Stranger Things, right

and Lucasfilm (ie Star Wars), that will be equivalent to America entering the war. But the sheer range of Netflix’s spending suggests its ambitions may be even bigger: to become a Disney before Disney becomes Netflix. Meanwhile, all this is “NETFLIX LIKES TO CLAIM THAT changing the sort of ITS ALGORITHMS ARE ITS programmes that get made. ‘I don’t think we can ‘SECRET SAUCE’” even call it television anymore,’ says Ed Finn, academic and author of that’s being produced for Netflix and Amazon has What Algorithms Want. created a Golden Age of Television that we should all be ‘You have these data-driven celebrating. I’m not so sure. Streaming culture is all companies trying to get about gorging on one thing. It’s not exactly a varied or their heads round this nutritious diet. Their business depends on people idiosyncratic thing that is subscribing to their service and staying there. The most Hollywood and the movie efficient way of doing that is encouraging you to watch a industry. But the weird thing is, Netflix has done it more Gotta watch: Netflix single series and nothing else. It’s in nobody’s interest to series She’s Gotta successfully than anyone else has.’ Netflix likes to claim Have it directed by say, “let’s make it shorter”.’ that its algorithms are its ‘secret sauce’. It tracks data not Spike Lee (who made He believes this has led to ‘a world without beginning, the original film) will only on who watches what, but how quickly they watch it, debut this month middle and end’, where shows are designed to draw in a when they pause, what they watch afterwards, what they devoted fandom and keep them on the platform. ‘It ends abandon. It combines this with a ‘human element’: a up like an interminable day at a theme park. There are person grading each piece of content: happy/sad, light/ good bits. But there’s an awful lot of hanging around.’ dark. ‘They have organised all movies that have ever been But such complaints may come to seem increasingly made or ever will be made into 76,897 categories. If you quaint. The printing press spread Protestantism; the want an uplifting buddy Second World War movie with a vinyl long player shaped the classic rock album. Why strong female lead, you can search for that,’ says Finn. shouldn’t streaming suggest bold new forms? Sarandos And these algorithms feed into the commissioning doesn’t seem to be finished yet: ‘Why not premiere movies process — whereupon creators are given artistic freedom. on Netflix the same day that they’re opening in theatres? And it seems to be working. This year, Netflix scored 91 Listen to the consumer, give them what they want.’ Emmy nominations as well as an Academy Award for its Perhaps though, it was the LA Father documentary, White Helmets. One director who is John Misty who provided the most compelling currently making a documentary for Netflix says its vision of the future in his song, Total Entertainment approach is liberating: ‘With TV, you feel you’re part of Forever: ‘When the the enormous spreadsheet that is the schedule. You’re historians find us we’ll be constantly having to cut bits out of your film to make it in our homes / Plugged fit. Netflix is quite happy to let it run to however long it into our hubs, skin and needs to be.’ bones / A frozen smile on Still, Adam Tandy, producer of The Thick of It, every face as the stories Catastrophe and Inside No.9, sounds a cautionary note. replay / This must have ‘There’s a notion that the current glut of programming been a wonderful place.’

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 37 The AGE of

opulenceRich textures, luxurious tones and a lot of glow — beauty’s getting ready for winter. Malaika Firth models the season’s key looks

PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA FRØLICH STYLED BY SOPHIE PAXTON BEAUTY EDITOR KATIE SERVICE

38 ES MAGAZINE 10.11.17 ERDEM dress, POA (020 3653 0360). V BY LAURA VANN earrings, £75 (vjewellery.co.uk)

URBAN DECAY Naked Heat Lipstick in heat, £15.50; Naked Heat Eyeshadow Palette, £39.50; All Nighter Liquid Foundation, £29; All Nighter Long Lasting Makeup Setting Spray, £10; 24 /7 Glide on Lip pencil in liar, £13.50 (urbandecay.co.uk). 3INA The Ultra Curl Mascara, £9.95 (3ina.com) DELPOZO shirt, £1,650 (020 7881 0950). CÉLINE earrings, £520 (020 7491 8200)

URBAN DECAY All Nighter Liquid Foundation, £29; All Nighter Long Lasting Makeup Setting Spray, £10; Heavy Metals Metallic Eyeshadow Palette, £43 (urbandecay.co. uk). VICTORIA BECKHAM ESTÉE LAUDER Matte Lipstick in Victoria, £50, at net-a-porter.com OSMAN top, £1,820 (osmanlondon.com). DIOR JOAILLERIE Rose Dior Bagatelle garnet earring, £1,350; diamond earring, £1,600, both worn as choker with velvet ribbon (020 7172 0172)

URBAN DECAY All Nighter Liquid Foundation, £29; Vice Revolution High-Colour Lip Gloss, £15; Afterglow Highlighter Palette, £27 (urbandecay.co.uk). CHANEL Le Vernis de Chanel longwear nail colour in particuliere, £20 (chanel.com)

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 41 alaika Firth’s story is the kind of story that, were you to read it in a Hollywood Mscript, you would think was too farfetched, too unbelievable, too good to be true. As a 17- year-old living in Barking — having moved there from Kenya with her family at the age of seven — she was obsessed with Channel 4’s The Model Agency. She harangued her mother into calling the agency featured in the show, Premier. And that was that. ‘She rang them and said: “My girl loves your show, she would love to model for you guys.” They went: “Yeah, bring her in.” They didn’t know how I looked, they didn’t know anything.’ She was signed on the spot, picked out a new name (there was already a model with her birth name, Tamara, making waves at the time), and within weeks had her first job offer. ‘I was still in sixth form and I had to choose between school and Burberry. I chose Burberry.’ Working ‘nine to five, every single day’ under the soon-departing Christopher Bailey, other offers quickly followed, from ASOS to Marc Jacobs to Prada (she was the first black model to star in a Prada campaign since Naomi Campbell). From the outset, Firth had a very clear plan for what she was going to do with the money she made: namely provide for her family. She has been able to build a house back home in Kenya (her dad designed it), where they all now live. ‘I’m like a film to them,’ she says, when I ask how they have reacted to her success. ‘That’s what I am. I feel like they’re just watching me on TV and they’re seeing me coming up and they’re just like, in awe of me. One day I can be Tamara, at home on the sofa, and the next day I’m like dressed up Malaika. If I’m going out to a party or an event, for them it’s just like a roller coaster, just watching me going to all of this stuff.’ For just a few months now, Firth has been residing, solo, in her first-ever parent-free home on the Upper West Side of New York City. She is single and happy about that fact (‘I don’t want to be held up by anyone,’ she says). Anyway, she notes, there is plenty to be getting on with. The campaigns keep coming in and she is about to start taking acting classes, ‘because I really want it, the acting thing. Just have to push’. She is ambitious. Very ambitious. For example, when I ask her whether fame on the level of a Cara or a Naomi would scare her, she gives an answer that sits in stark contrast to pretty much everyone else to whom I have ever put that question. ‘You know what?’ she says. ‘I lived a completely different life when I was young. I didn’t have anyone following me around. So I think I’d like it!’ Interview by Hamish MacBain This page, OSMAN dress, £5,950 (osmanlondon.com) ATELIER SWAROVSKI X PAUL ANDREW earrings, £249 (atelierswarovski.com)

URBAN DECAY All Nighter Liquid Foundation, £29; 24 /7 Glide-On Eye Pencil, £15.50; Troublemaker Mascara, £19.50 (urbandecay.co.uk). PAT MCGRATH LABS Skin Fetish Illuminator Kit, £70, at net-a-porter.com

Opposite page, LOEWE dress, £1,725 (loewe.com) GARRARD earrings, POA (garrard.com)

URBAN DECAY Nagel Vice Lipstick Palette, £30; All Nighter Liquid Foundation, £29; Naked Skin The Illuminizer Translucent Pressed Beauty Powder, £24 (urbandecay.co.uk). ELIZABETH ARDEN Grand Entrance Dramatic Volume Mascara, £22, at net-a- porter.com

Fashion assistant: Eniola Dare. Make-up by Mel Arter at CLM using URBAN DECAY. Hair by Leigh Keates at Premier Hair and Make-up. Nails by Sabrina Gayle at The Wall Group. Set designer: Victoria Spicer. Model: Malaika Firth at Premier Model Management

10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 43

BEAUTY

BY KATIE SERVICE

ANOTHER DIMENSION Combination colours will contour and sculpt. Drink it in

Clockwise from left, GIVENCHY Le Rouge Sculpt, £25.20, at debenhams.com. DIOR Rouge Dior Double Rouge in Miss Crush, £27.50 (dior.com). SMASHBOX Be Legendary triple tone lipstick in Berry Ombre, £17.50 (smashbox.co.uk). BENEFIT They’re Real! Double the Lip in Pink Thrills, £16.50 (benefitcosmetics.com) Varese Blossom fabric, £69 per metre (designersguild.com). Waterford Mixology glass, £145 for a set of four, at selfridges.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEKSANDRA KINGO STYLED BY LILY WORCESTER 10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 45

BEAUTY You beauty! ON THE SOAPBOX Beauty editor KATIE SERVICE finds a way to hug trees and smell fabulous at the same time

hen a beauty writer starts waffling on about ‘W sustainability, it’s easy to switch off. It’s all a bit worthy, isn’t it? Vegan this and microbead that. The thing is that times are changing, and what we once thought was impossibly chic (mountains of weighty, click-together plastic compacts wrapped in ribbon and a hundred layers of tissue paper) starts to look laboured and uncool. Enter Floral Street, an all-new fragrance concept that recently launched in Harvey Nichols. The woman behind the brand is Michelle Feeney, former chief executive at tanning brand St Tropez. The first thing you notice about the bottles is that they are beautiful — like mini Nick Knight floral glass explosions — followed by the boxes (below), which are made from recyclable pulp cartons bound together with a bright reusable plastic band. What’s that? No plastic cellophane? No laminated boxes or polystyrene filler? Hallelujah. The fact is that some 8 million tonnes of plastic are dumped into the ocean every year and, according to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, by 2050 the weight ’m all about the double-up. I double cleanse of plastic in the sea will because I do not believe that one go will fully match the weight of fish. remove a full face of slap. I double mascara: first Floral Street is proof Eyeko’s peerless Rock Out & Lash Out to fan out that perfume Ithe lashes, then Max Factor’s 2000 Calorie or doesn’t have to be Diorshow to thicken and dramatise. In winter I double trussed up like a Annabel moisturise: an oil (Votary or Darphin) and then rub on Christmas tree a night cream. I double base: a tinted moisturiser given FLORAL STREET Rivkin is Iris Goddess, £55, at to be appealing. muscle by a liquid blendable concealer like Tarte’s harveynichols.com The perfect eco- beaming Aquacealer, which has changed my life. I double scent: conscious scent. over blusher for a zingy day it’s Jo Malone’s grapefruit body wash followed by Miller Harris’s sparkling Citron Citron, ’ which dies down to a gentle, sunlit, woody delight. HEADSPACE Now I double blush. Glossier, lately having arrived on these shores from New York, has sprung from the cyber loins of beauty website intothegloss.com. The result is a range of truly excellent products, among which Cloud Paint stands out as a fantastically buildable and sheer cheek colour in tiny little gouache-like tubes. Infused with collagen to plump, blurring powders to airbrush and pops of delicious colour, it is a gorgeous blusher base. My new constant companion is ‘beam’, a perfect apricot for a subtle coral radiance. When night calls, Cloud Paint becomes my undercoat, pumped up by a powder blusher such as Bobbi Brown’s Nude Peach — or, if I’m wanting to be grown-up and mysterious (I’m never mysterious, but God loves a trier), then it might be Charlotte Tilbury’s Toni Dicks and Jasmine Hemsley, aka Sound Sebastien, are hosting a singing bowl sound sophisticated yet idiot-proof Cheek to Chic blusher in bath pop-up at the Devonshire Club. The slow sound waves produced by the crystal bowls soothe the nervous system and reduce stress, and complimentary Tempur foam pillows sex on fire. Double trouble, my beauties… and lavender eye masks will help you maximise the relaxation vibes. (soundsebastien.com) Cloud Paint in beam, £15 (glossier.com) Josh Shinner; Natasha Pszenicki Natasha Shinner; Josh

READ YOUR STARS BY SHELLEY VON STRUNCKEL AT STANDARD.CO.UK⁄HOROSCOPES⁄TODAY 10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 47

Jonny Cochrane; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas Ceremony looked noisy. Ceremony looked fun. It It fun. looked Ceremony noisy. looked Ceremony won melist, over. cocktail raffish sit-up and bar a joint with aneighbourhood in classics, British of hearty dinners and brunches for boozy opening up. things pep to just myself calf veal a have strangled I’d Holborn and in Black Vanilla in minutes Twenty-five byspikes. replaced be to chairs the and parsnip raw unpeeled Blackadder II clientele comprising mainly those puritans from a and Birkenstocks in toes hairy joyless; all even now, is, which abit restaurants of vegetarian landscape itthe is pigs, kill to reason agood want you if Still, respectful’. feels so all ‘Blimey, this thought was, pig that thing last the let’s frank, be eatingtales because, of respectful nose-to-tail didn’t once have a face and my eyes glaze over at that things eat prefer to today, Even I’d 20s. and my teens in years for several vegetarian been of latter, the I’veHeavens, many having endured vegetarian rather than a vegetarian restaurant. say, they be to happens which arestaurant, also of one ofname my It’s favourite New songs. Order variables. with festooned it’s and as bygut led response, of real the seconds more than endures but nobody, true, None I’ve is found, of these Wallace.’ byGregg decisions life most in led am ‘I even, Or letterbox.’ my though list a push otters I say. Or, ‘A hospitality-obsessed of curiously team GRACE &FLAVOUR FEAST I joyously bucking the vegetarian clichés Grace Dent So, the fact that Ali and Joe at Ceremony and were Ali that fact the So, the is Park, Ceremony, Tufnell for in example,

Purely to entertain myself. ‘God guides me,’ guides myself. ‘God entertain to Purely up. answer the Imake alotthat of time the review, to restaurants which how I choose bystrangers aweek times many so asked am who arrive for dinner demanding a a demanding for dinner who arrive loves the food at Ceremony, arestaurant FOOD AMBIENCE

1 Cheese board £9 £3 £16 £135.50 TOTAL Cheese board 1 £15 lettuce Grilled 1 White bean stew 1 curry £8 potato Sweet £3 1 £9 mushrooms wild and egg Duck £1 £4 1 rarebit leek Charred 1 crisps Vegetable 1 fritters Courgette £15 1 £4.50 veggies Raw 1 £18 Water 1 £30 Madeira of Glasses 2 of Glasses oloroso 2 of Crémant Glasses 4 CEREMONY ceremonyrestaurant.london) 4242; NW5 (020 3302 Park, Tufnell Road, Fortess 131

“I’d prefer to eat things that didn’t once once didn’t that things eat to prefer “I’d have aface andmy eyes glaze overat like restaurant resolutely non-vegetarian feeling, well, avegetarian make to one decides if when, it like feels away —because walk-ins turning be to now appear right they And category. fun-ish and of of youngish people the full is music and loud Ceremony plays quite as answer to distracted but too may they be them, call to would be advice with delicious, plump Parmesan dumplings. My yet came far, so vegan, and so satisfying blandly was stew bean The aforensic. white demand and kitchen the not into But go Idid dreams. and fragrantly with coconut It milk. is the stuff of heroically chimed me, to curry, The potato sweet ‘probably’. afirm is my which answer to alarm, car ignored an like review, sounding throughout this ‘but are there vegan options?’ again and again duck egg. yet runny abreadcrumbed and of buttery polenta strewn with wild mushrooms Then aplate breadcrumbs. and cheeses mustardy leek, of oozy, unctious full tin roasting a mini rarebit; leek acharred came next along as worry to worthy, slightly all but was not This arrived. sauce romesco avibrant with beetroot and radishes aplate of raw and a bowl of crisps vegetable fritters, courgette cloud-like fresh, hot, of Snacks decoration). hand elegant (which purely as Iclass I wasn’t drinking, so we ordered Crémant fizz Regardless, days later Ceremony was in full swing. of him. never or someone other. heard Giles I’d critic. another by frottaged warmly was it when until just before my Thursday-evening booking off crèmebrûlée. my meright putting 10pm, at atoddler one tit out with there feeding be still tends to raise mini-savages and if permitted, will brigade holier-than-thou eating, restrictive the as God, Thank me. 7pm. people understood These after nochildren And curry. potato sweet and toast French challah Also oloroso glass. bythe and piccalilli, quince jelly and walnuts. Plus Madeira jam, bramble homemade accoutrements: four with board acheese serving be to appeared And I went, and I’ll be back. back. be I’ll Iwent, and And tales nose-to-tail of respectful eating” Patently, there will be vegans tantruming tantruming Patently, vegans be will there Ceremony so was, I thought, my little secret, Field of Dreams , you build it and they come. come. they it, you and build 10.11.17 10.11.17 ES MAGAZINE 49

FEAST TART LONDON Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison cook up a campfire-style brunch of eggy bacon and beans

Talking tables: the Tart girls set up for a blowout Mediterranean feast

Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison

n a recent bright autumnal morning we decided to prepare brunch outside in the garden. We had been talking about the fun of Opreparing meals while camping and how there is something so rewarding about cooking over a campfire. We wanted to make a hearty, warming, one-pot breakfast dish. So we decided on this smoky bacon and beans with eggs. So we got to it and went fully primal, constructing a table out of two bricks and a plank of wood (don’t say we’re not handy) and we called in the troops — our friends turned up with some fresh crusty bread and a thermos of bullshot. Think of bullshot as a wintry alternative to a Bloody Mary — a real hair of the dog drink. It is a mixture of vodka, beef consommé, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and black pepper, served hot. It’s a bit odd, but it really does the trick on a cold morning. This dish has inspired us to consider investing in a fire pit for our small London Serves 4 SMOKY BACON WITH EGGS AND BEANS garden. You can pick them up quite inexpensively online. We have barbecues in 1 tbsp olive oil Heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat and add the summer, so why not a fire pit for the winter 4 rashers of streaky bacon, the bacon. Once it has started to crisp, add the chopped — even if all you toast is marshmallows. 1 onion, chopped onion, garlic, thyme and bay leaves. Cook for 5 In case you don’t want to go to the 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and minutes until softened. Add the smoked paprika, chopped trouble of cooking your brunch outside, this 1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme chipotle, cumin seeds and tomato paste then stir works equally well on the hob, and a dash of 2 bay leaves in the chopped tomatoes, maple syrup and beans. 1 heaped tsp smoked paprika chipotle paste will ensure you still get a ½ jar chipotle paste Simmer for 10 minutes, then season to taste. lovely smoky flavour. 1 tsp cumin seeds Use a spoon to make four wells in the bean 1 tbsp tomato paste 2 tins chopped tomatoes mixture and crack in the eggs. Keep over the 1 tbsp maple syrup heat until the eggs are cooked, then sprinkle 2 tins cannellini beans, drained 4 eggs over the coriander and serve with lots of warm Small bunch coriander, chopped bread for scooping. Josh Shinner Josh

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FEAST In the MIX Douglas Blyde on the rise of innovative The in Chinese winemakers CIDER e’re hungry hunters,’ says London’s first urban cidery Lenz Moser, lifting is making waves. Time to ‘Wchopsticks, conductor-like. We eat at Andrew Wong’s avant-garde jump aboard the apple Tanked: cider Pimlico dim sum house, where croquettes tasting at cart, says Frankie McCoy Hawkes Cidery conceal rabbit curry and torched mushroom buns sprout from ‘turf’. orget stickily warm Kopparberg gravitation’. You are given one bottle Moser, a fifth-generation Austrian sloshed down your back at teen of Urban Orchard for every 3kg winemaker, is famed for popularising music festivals, or the existential (about 15 apples) donated — and on sprightly whites from the national hangover-inducing scrumpy of 11 November you can even brew grape, Grüner Veltliner, via ‘friendly’, Fpost-exam celebrations — and please, please your own Bramleys at its Urban ‘charming’ and ‘singing’ renditions. don’t mention snakebite. Cider is being Cider Making Masterclass. However, he long harboured a redeemed, one pint of single variety at a time. The revival of cider is long fascination for China. When on a Starting in Bermondsey. While Druid overdue — the UK has for some mission to sell Austrian Veltliner to Street is known among craft beerophiles as time been pipped to the post by the the People’s Republic 13 years ago, he the start of the Bermondsey Beer Mile, States, where craft cider is big piqued the interest of the CEO of packed with blood orange double IPA- business. Still, London is finally getting Asia’s oldest winery, Château Changyu, producing microbreweries, there is a new aboard the apple cart. Scandi-inspired who insisted he ‘prove himself’ by craft pint puller in town. Hawkes Cidery restaurant Rōk is pouring its own brewed making Chinese Cabernet. bills itself as the first urban cider maker, ciders at its new pop-up spot in Old Rather than Shandong, the east-coast and founder Simon Wright is on a mission to Spitalfields Market, while at the new Farm home of most of China’s wineries, Moser get us sinking good cider. ‘For years, Girl café in Sweaty Betty Carnaby Street, chose Ningxia, 600 miles west of mainstream cider has been mass produced, you can chase your in-store Paola’s Body Beijing. ‘Ningxia, washed by the Yellow and of mostly poor quality,’ he says. ‘Craft Barre with a glass of hydrating Hoila, an River, is an oasis,’ he says. It also basks cider has been a thing for a very niche group Alpine cider made in South Tyrol and in 3,000 hours of sunshine a year with of people in places such as Somerset or served in an extremely Instagram-friendly cool nights and altitude, preserving Herefordshire. But British apples are bottle. The same can be said of French freshness in fragrant wines. wonderfully varied, they’re also cheap and brand Sassy Cidre and its admirable With cupolas, fountains and a statue provide nuanced flavour profiles when you determination to make cider cool again with of Moser’s grandfather, ‘the first person play with them. We’ve had the craft gin graphic bottles and a rosé variety. to trellis vineyards’, Château Changyu revolution, and craft beer just gets bigger Moser XV winery and museum and better, so I truly believe it’s high time “British apples are transforms a landscape of coal mines into that cider has its day in the sun.’ wonderfully varied and a tourist hotspot. Convinced the second- Ciders in the taproom are ranked by provide nuanced flavours” largest trading nation has terroir and their various levels of sharpness, sweetness drive to become a global wine player, and tannin, with some of the super-dry, Need something to soak up the juice? The Moser makes quarterly working super-tannic tasting almost like Syrah. Cider Box, campaigners for real cider, hosts pilgrimages. ‘China’s 1.3 billion are Brothers Toffee Apple this is not. Its own regular cider and cheese evenings — most waking up to the Western lifestyle. And brand, Hawkes Urban Orchard, is not recently at Kennington’s Old Red Lion — to in Germany, Xi Jinping is a superstar.’ challenging cider — it’s simply very crisp, encourage consumption of Braeburns in Noting any suffering ‘is outweighed by alcoholic apple juice, easy sipping at booze form and Brie. And if you’re steering the goal’, Moser taught his eager Chinese 4.5 per cent and, when I visited on one clear of the booze but need to keep warm this team that ‘it can be okay to say no’ and hungover Sunday, season, sip yourself silly stopped traditions including harvesting by blissfully revitalising. Rosé outlook: on Dominique Ansel’s rote. ‘Typically, grapes were picked before Sassy Cidre There is an apple hot cinnamon apple the moon festival. But grapes don’t care donation scheme for booze-free ‘cider’ while about festivals — let them ripen.’ anyone with an insulating yourself for Showing China is an innovator, Moser’s overloaded fruit tree the winter with a cronut apple-scented white is made entirely from dropping Granny Smiths or six. What are you red grapes, while inky reds, including quicker than you can say waiting for? Get some Moser Family Cabernet (£14.95; bbr. ‘Newton’s law of universal cider inside ya. com), deliver a big bang of pure fruit. Jonny Cochrane; glassware available at waterford.co.uk at available glassware Cochrane; Jonny

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HOMEWORK Wallpaper* editor-in-chief Tony Chambers on the West End’s burgeoning design district, high-spec specs and the 2,000-year-old temple reopening in the City

Mayfair CLUB ondon has no better place for collectible contemporary design than Mayfair. There’s the all-singing, all-dancing PAD art fair, which brings design icons and tomorrow’s masterpieces THE PRODUCT toL Berkeley Square every October, and regular design sales While ready-to-wear spectacles are rising in quality, there is still no rival at the likes of Sotheby’s, Phillips and Bonhams. Gallery- to a made-to-measure pair and in the UK, it’s hard to beat the work of Tom Davies. In the 15 years since founding his eponymous eyewear label, wise, European imports such as Carpenters Workshop, Kreo, Davies has perfected every element of the bespoke experience, from in- Patrick Seguin and Achille Salvagni complement British store consultation and hi-tech eye testing to hand-production of the stalwart David Gill (nearby in St James’s) and new arrival frames, each requiring from 16 to 22 hours to make. In a vote of confidence for British craftsmanship, he has also begun to move his Gallery Fumi (previously in Hoxton). Other local businesses production from China to London. (tdtomdavies.com) have been eager to take on design-led collaborations —

recent examples include sculpture dealer Daniel Katz ohn Pawson m: J ru THE PERSON showing Thomas Heatherwick’s extendable ‘Friction Table’ ct pe s John Pawson is not only a creator of sublime on Hill Street, Paul Smith putting on a display of Finn Juhl d a o spaces such as the Design Museum, but also furniture upholstered in new fabrics at his Albemarle Street r B a skilled shutterbug. His upcoming store, and art gallery Ordovas pairing Lichtensteins and book, Spectrum, offers up a journey Warhols with a limited edition of Gufram’s Cactus. through his photographic archive, With so much to shout about, it’s only appropriate that revealing the moments and details that inspire his architectural output. design-led establishments would band together to form the He’s also bringing his minimalist Mayfair Design District. This came into being with aesthetic to this year’s Fashion September’s London Design Festival, which saw Mayfair Awards, working with Swarovski on join the likes of Clerkenwell, Shoreditch and Chelsea as a a series of crystal trophies (left) with lacquer cores in varying colours, to designated hub of activity. The alliance has been growing be handed out at Royal Albert Hall strong since: an official website offers up a comprehensive on 4 December. (johnpawson.com) list of events, while a diligently maintained Instagram feed showcases at least one thing of interest per day. THE TECH Having established its reputation with the “We want to break down barriers between ultra high-end Phantom speaker, French affordable design and limited-edition works” audio outfit Devialet has now set its sights on a larger market, collaborating with Sky Beyond drawing footfall into Mayfair, the Design District on a new Soundbox. The unassuming, all- in-one device features six woofers and three has a more noble goal. As its initiator, James Malcolm Green, full-range speakers, producing a surround explains: ‘We want to break down any perceived barriers sound effect. The inbuilt volume control between affordable design and limited-edition works, which system can adjust audio levels to often, when placed in a gallery environment, can seem accommodate both quiet dialogue and explosive action, while Bluetooth daunting.’ Thus the inclusion of furniture dealers Christian connectivity means it can be paired with a Liaigre and Holly Hunt, concept store The New Craftsmen, range of electronics. (sky.com/skysoundbox) bookshop Maison Assouline and Italian brand Alessi, a key player in democratised design. By mixing price points, Green hopes to raise awareness and appreciation of collectible THE BUILDING design beyond aficionados to the wider general public. Opening on 14 November, this cultural destination beneath Bloomberg’s newly unveiled Mayfair Design District looks set to flourish in the European HQ houses the reconstructed remains coming months with no shortage of exciting shows, including of the Roman Temple of Mithras, discovered a solo presentation by French designer Olivier Gagnère at there in 1954. Complementing the Kreo; vases and vessels curated by Gianluca Longo at David archaeological finds, artist Matthew Schreiber has created an installation of haze and light to Gill; and a winter group show at Fumi that includes Max evoke the atmosphere of the original temple, Lamb, Glithero and Sam Orlando Miller. And the imminent while the ground-level space will feature a addition of Dutch gallery Priveekollektie and local rotating display of contemporary art amid the newcomer 18 Davies Street will add to Mayfair’s appeal and ruins, beginning with a painted steel sculpture (left) and a 19m tapestry based on the ancient help transform it into an international design destination. Walbrook River, both by Dublin-based artist (mayfairdesigndistrict.com; @mayfairdesigndistrict) Isabel Nolan. (londonmithraeum.com) Chris Floyd; Rex Features

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Alamy; Getty; Tribal Hotel; Julien Capmeil foundation tierratour.com) person; per £55 (from Tour Tierra with adventure zipline guided on a forest the canopy through Tarzan like swing events (c3mundos.org). hosts changing art exhibitions, performances and park, central the overlooking old villa amajestic in £140; tribal-hotel.com).£140; Instagrammable pool (suites from highly- or bythe balcony Breakfast is served on your private of city’s the hippest hotels. boutique ESCAPE (rooms from £50; missmargrits.com). tourism about local knowledgeable very and host anatural is Chris restored colonial British villa; owner B&B MARGRIT’S at home at yourself service, slick Picnic) and (of Acme&Tijuana Indochine, New from York veterans design hospitality from jicarolodge.com). £380; free morning yoga classes (private casitas —including relaxation excellent and food emphasis here is on sustainability, The dock. Asese Granada’sfrom Puerto trip boat ashort islet just on an retreat JICARO ISLAND LODGE TOWHERE STAY EDITED BY DIPAL ACHARYA DIPAL BY EDITED LA CASA DE LOS TRES MUNDOS TRES LOS DE CASA LA HOTEL TRIBAL HOTEL , set in alovely in , set MISS

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in a glamorous old villa. old aglamorous villa. in — ham Mombacho smoked and Rivas from Matagalpa Camembert, organic rocket including — produce national finest the and Golondrinas Las Finca from lot coffee café-gallery serves award-winning micro- resto- stylish This latte. oraperfect dinner Seek out WHERE TO EAT &DRINK if you aren’t braving the street food. street the braving youif aren’t —here salad cabbage and pork crackling —yuca, vigorón dish, local best-known the Try beef. Nicaraguan top-grade serving institution, aGranada and steakhouse EL ZAGUAN Not for vegetarians, margaritas. jalapeño strawberry- its out signature night with a Start Calzada. La Calle street, main music, set in an old cinema overlooking the live occasional menu and eclectic an with is a buzzing cocktail and craft beer bar LADRILLERIA FAVILLI LADRILLERIA traditional ceramic workshop visit And Sonrisas. de Las Café SOCIAL TÍO ANTONIO social enterprise handwoven hammock ( products. Pick up a gorgeous, accessories and recycled, natural locally made craft goods, features which Café, Garden THOUSAND CRANES Browse the huge selection from TOWHERE SHOP fantastic array of handmade tiles, tiles, of handmade array fantastic ESPRESSONISTA which are ubiquitous in the city. the in ubiquitous are which is the country’s most famous famous most country’s the is 10.11.17 10.11.17 EL TERCER OJO CENTRO CENTRO ES MAGAZINE for lunch, lunch, for above at the the at in the for a a for ) at ) at 57

MY LONDON ALEXANDER WANG

AS TOLD TO LILY WORCESTER

Home is… also happens to Manhattan. be my dog’s name. I also adore Scott’s — I usually Where do you stay in order the simple grilled fish of London? the day or oysters (above), and The Rosewood hotel (below) their mignonette is incredible. in Holborn — it’s the perfect home away from home. It has Biggest extravagance? the best wonton soup of any Skincare is my biggest room service anywhere. extravagance. I’m a junkie and I’ll do anything if someone I trust recommends it, even if it involves pain or extremely bad smells, including blood and placenta.

Where would you go for a nightcap? The Fumoir Bar at Claridge’s for a Tito’s and soda. Earliest London memory? Going to London by myself for a Who do you call when you summer programme at Central want to have fun? Saint Martins and taking the Fran Cutler hands down. bus in the middle of the night Everything that women says from where I was staying to go and does is entertainment. out partying. One crazy night I We recently had a night at went to this amazing rave in a The designer loves the seafood at Scott’s, Chiltern Firehouse (below) tunnel in King’s Cross. gets his flowers from McQueens and enjoys and closed the place. a night out at G-A-Y What’s the most romantic thing someone has done for you in London? Best piece of advice Which shops do I’m still waiting… you’ve been given? you rely on? Always trust your McQueens for What do you collect? first instinct — I flowers left( ). Anything black and exotic. can’t remember White peonies The last thing I added to who told me, but and white my collection was a black it stuck. cabbage roses Who is your hero? watersnake travel bag. are my favourite. Ralph Lauren is a constant Where in London do source of inspiration for his Favourite London you go to let your Last album you ability to create a ubiquitous discoveries? hair down? bought? and encompassing world that I was in town for a few days G-A-Y is actually one of The most recent album, is instantly recognisable. last summer and managed the best gay parties in , is on repeat. My to see Drake the world, and there’s a favourite song is ‘Gyalchester’. What would you do if you and Skepta room for every kind were Mayor for the day? (right) play of music. There’s Best meal you have had I’d switch the direction of traffic Wireless one for hip-hop, in London? so I wouldn’t get confused every festival; they were pop, etc, but I always try to make a stop time I cross the street. amazing. It was cool to there’s always a at Umu in Mayfair. I love how experience such a large crazy line situation so experimental the dishes are, Alexander Wang, 43-44 music festival in the you have to prepare for particularly the ones infused Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1 middle of the city. a long night ahead. with uni (sea urchin), which (alexanderwang.com) Getty; Alamy Getty;

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