©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

KalimantanPOP 13,800,000

Why Go? ...... 220 If jungle rivers get your blood running, then be prepared ...... 225 for rapids. Occupying three-quarters of , the world’s Sungai Mahakam...... 228 third-largest island Kalimantan harbours a vast and legen- Wehea Forest...... 237 dary jungle cut by countless rivers, including two around Berau...... 238 1000km in length. Within this primordial puzzle something extraordinary always lies around the next bend. You’ll en- Derawan Archipelago....239 counter exotic wildlife, such as the unforgettable orangutan, Pontianak...... 242 mysterious Dayak villages with only one foot in the modern Sukadana...... 248 world, and pure boating thrills. Adventure travellers of all Sungai Kapuas...... 249 levels can participate, from novices enjoying the romantic Tanjung Puting klotok (canoes) of Tanjung Puting to hardened trekkers National Park...... 251 shooting rapids on the landmark Cross-Borneo Trek. Divers Pangkalan Bun...... 255 will revel in the Derawan Archipelago, a world-class under- Palangka Raya...... 256 water destination. Cities here are mostly transit points, and Banjarmasin...... 259 foreigners exceedingly rare, but locals everywhere will greet Loksado...... 263 you with a cheerful ‘Hey Mistah!’, making travel a tropical breeze.

Best Jungle When to Go River Journeys Pontianak »»Sungai Bungan (p250) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 20/500 »»Sungai Mahakam (p228) 16/400 »»Sungai Sekonyer (p251) 30/86 12/300 20/68 8/200 10/50 Best Places 4/100 to Stay -0/32 0 »»Nunukan Island Resort J F DNOSAJJMAM (p241) »»Wisma Alya (p264) Jan–Feb Rough Feb–Apr Bloom- Aug–Sep Dry weather limits ing fruit brings season makes »»Wehea Forest Lodge diving trips in the orangutans into roads better, (p237) Derawan Archi- view. skies clearer. »»Hotel Gran Senyiur (p222) pelago. Pulau SULAWESI Pulau Maratua Sea Derawan Archipelago Sulawesi

Pulau Sangalaki Sandakan Tawau Sangkulirang Makassar Pulau Batu

Nunukan

Tarakan Derawan Sangatta Selat Tanjung Berau Tenggarong Park National Samarinda Berau Selor Balikpapan Kota Bangun Tanjung Park SABAH Panajam Wehea Forest Muaru Muntai Pulau Sebuku Sembakung NORTH Muara EAST Kota Baru Wahau Jantur

National Tanahgrogot

KALIMANTAN n

a Belayan

Mancong y Laut KALIMANTAN Pulau

Sebuku Pahu a Sungai

Muaru K Long Bawan Kota Tering Kayan Mentarang National Park Barabai

gai Loksado Kinabalu

am Melak

Sun Tanjung Isuy s Kandangan Mahak Amuntai

SOUTH

Sungai

Teweh Muara Martapura

Apokayan Highland Apokayan

Sungai KALIMANTAN Long Bagun Barito Cempaka Trek Negara Meratus Cross-Borneo Pegunungan BEGAWAN BRUNEI Tiong Ohang Sungai Mahakam BANDAR SERI BANDAR Sungai Kahayan

Kah Banjarbaru Sungai ayan Banjarmasin Tewah Kuala Kapuas Park MALAYSIA National Betung Sebangau Kerihun SARAWAK National Park Palangka Raya Bukit Raya (2278m) Bukit Raya Bukit Baka– Putussibau National Park Sampit

Completing the the Completing Ascending Ascending Settling into into Settling Living the Hiking unspoiled Sungai Cruising Sungai Meeting the Meeting Exploring Exploring Travelling up Travelling

Forest Wehea – the Earth (p237) be to as it used aboard the aboard Kahayan luxurious Rahai’i Pangun (p258) orangutans of of orangutans Puting Tanjung (p251) National Park Derawan the Derawan (p239), Archipelago water under both and above Mahakam Sungai (p228) – and into the past 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

1 Kalimantan Highlights landmark Cross- landmark – (p219) Trek Borneo can you if the tower of the of the tower Islamic extraordinary Samarinda of Centre (p225) village life in lovely in lovely life village (p263) Loksado ma high life (inexpensive)  (p220) in Balikpapan

Kalintan 216