©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
KalimantanPOP 13,800,000
Why Go? Balikpapan...... 220 If jungle rivers get your blood running, then be prepared Samarinda...... 225 for rapids. Occupying three-quarters of Borneo, the world’s Sungai Mahakam...... 228 third-largest island Kalimantan harbours a vast and legen- Wehea Forest...... 237 dary jungle cut by countless rivers, including two around Berau...... 238 1000km in length. Within this primordial puzzle something extraordinary always lies around the next bend. You’ll en- Derawan Archipelago....239 counter exotic wildlife, such as the unforgettable orangutan, Pontianak...... 242 mysterious Dayak villages with only one foot in the modern Sukadana...... 248 world, and pure boating thrills. Adventure travellers of all Sungai Kapuas...... 249 levels can participate, from novices enjoying the romantic Tanjung Puting klotok (canoes) of Tanjung Puting to hardened trekkers National Park...... 251 shooting rapids on the landmark Cross-Borneo Trek. Divers Pangkalan Bun...... 255 will revel in the Derawan Archipelago, a world-class under- Palangka Raya...... 256 water destination. Cities here are mostly transit points, and Banjarmasin...... 259 foreigners exceedingly rare, but locals everywhere will greet Loksado...... 263 you with a cheerful ‘Hey Mistah!’, making travel a tropical breeze.
Best Jungle When to Go River Journeys Pontianak »»Sungai Bungan (p250) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 20/500 »»Sungai Mahakam (p228) 16/400 »»Sungai Sekonyer (p251) 30/86 12/300 20/68 8/200 10/50 Best Places 4/100 to Stay -0/32 0 »»Nunukan Island Resort J F DNOSAJJMAM (p241) »»Wisma Alya (p264) Jan–Feb Rough Feb–Apr Bloom- Aug–Sep Dry weather limits ing fruit brings season makes »»Wehea Forest Lodge diving trips in the orangutans into roads better, (p237) Derawan Archi- view. skies clearer. »»Hotel Gran Senyiur (p222) pelago. Pulau Kakaban SULAWESI Pulau Maratua Sea Derawan Archipelago Sulawesi
Pulau Sangalaki Sandakan Tawau Sangkulirang Makassar Pulau Batu
Nunukan
Tarakan Derawan Sangatta Selat Tanjung Bontang Berau Tenggarong Park Kutai National Samarinda Berau Selor Balikpapan Kota Bangun Tanjung Park SABAH Panajam Wehea Forest Muaru Muntai Pulau Sebuku Sembakung NORTH Muara EAST Kota Baru Wahau Jantur
National Tanahgrogot
KALIMANTAN n
a Belayan
Mancong y Laut KALIMANTAN Pulau
Sebuku Pahu a Sungai
Muaru K Long Bawan Kota Tering Kayan Mentarang National Park Barabai
gai Loksado Kinabalu
am Melak
Sun Tanjung Isuy s Kandangan Mahak Amuntai
SOUTH
Sungai
Teweh Muara Martapura
Apokayan Highland Apokayan
Sungai KALIMANTAN Long Bagun Barito Cempaka Trek Negara Meratus Cross-Borneo Pegunungan BEGAWAN BRUNEI Tiong Ohang Sungai Mahakam BANDAR SERI BANDAR Sungai Kahayan
Kah Banjarbaru Sungai ayan Banjarmasin Tewah Kuala Kapuas Park MALAYSIA National Betung Sebangau Kerihun SARAWAK National Park Palangka Raya Bukit Raya (2278m) Bukit Raya Bukit Baka– Putussibau National Park Sampit
Completing the the Completing Ascending Ascending Settling into into Settling Living the Hiking unspoiled Sungai Cruising Sungai Meeting the Meeting Exploring Exploring Travelling up Travelling
Forest Wehea – the Earth (p237) be to as it used aboard the aboard Kahayan luxurious Rahai’i Pangun (p258) orangutans of of orangutans Puting Tanjung (p251) National Park Derawan the Derawan (p239), Archipelago water under both and above Mahakam Sungai (p228) – and into the past 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
1 Kalimantan Highlights landmark Cross- landmark – (p219) Trek Borneo can you if the tower of the of the tower Islamic extraordinary Samarinda of Centre (p225) village life in lovely in lovely life village (p263) Loksado ma high life (inexpensive) (p220) in Balikpapan
Kalintan 216