Expo 2020: Powering Global Ideas

EXPO 2020: POWERING GLOBAL IDEAS

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Editor-in-ChiEf Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor Ian Fairservice EditoriaL dirECtor Gina Johnson [email protected] grouP Editor Mark Evans [email protected] SEnior Editor Andrew Nagy [email protected] digitaL / Print dESignEr Roui Francisco [email protected] digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta [email protected] VidEo Editor Donnie Miguel [email protected] Sub Editor Salil Kumar [email protected] EditoriaL aSSiStant Londresa Flores [email protected]

ContributorS Iain Akerman, Christopher Beanland, Charles Carver, Emma Coiler, Sarah Freeman, Kimberley Hasselbrink, Marina Kay, Vincent Long, Rebecca Matthews, Derek Opperman, Adam Patterson, Stuart Turton Cover: Ollanski (folioart.co.uk)

gEnEraL ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr ManagEr Anthony Milne [email protected] ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar grouP SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES ManagEr ProduCtion Michael Underdown Shruti Srivastava Michelle Quinn ManagEr [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] R Murali Krishnan

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

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Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

133,095 copies Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE January – June 2017 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

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CMY

Editor’s lE ttE r

ANDREW NAGY ON THE COVER SEniOr EdiTOr

he news came late on a To the casual observer it all sounds a bit Saturday evening. November business-y, and it’s true that the World’s T 23, 2013, to be exact, Fair was very much a trade show in its punctuated by much rejoicing in general early incarnations. But from the 1940 and the whizz-bang of fireworks from fair in New York onwards it became Burj Khalifa in particular. about innovation and intercultural “We’ve got the Expo, then” a friend communication, and that’s a theme that excitedly exclaimed over coffee the very forms the backbone of Dubai’s fair, too. next day. “Yeah, brilliant!” I replied… This month, as the three-year what is it?” countdown to Expo 2020 begins and It was likely an exchange that played the serious work in Dubai kicks in along out across Dubai in the days that with it, we honour the occasion with followed the announcement, and in the our cover story. By heading down to the weeks, months and even years after that. site and speaking to the people working EXPO 2020 This month, we asked the Berlin-based, THE EXPO is COmiNg aNd iT’s gOiNg TO award-winning paper artist, Ollanski, to give us something special, and boy did CHaNgE yOuR lifE... makE NO misTakE, he deliver, with a handmade version of THis is gOiNg TO bE sOmE sHOw the Expo 2020 site.

What people did seem to be sure on day and night to turn dreams into reality, was that house prices in the city would we were able to discover exactly what skyrocket. “Now’s the time to buy,” they you can expect along with the estimated would say, conspiratorially. US$34 million economic boost, the “Oh really, why?” predicted 25 million visitors, and the “Well… Expo.” Now I’m no expert, hoped for 300,000 new jobs. but I’m betting even the most maverick But I’m not going to give anything of property tycoon would think twice away here, you can head to page 42 about a purchase based on a single word for our feature on the city that’s rapidly recommendation. And not even a full growing out of the desert for that. And word, either, an abbreviation. that’s not all; from this month onwards But the Expo is real and it’s coming you can follow the latest Expo stories and it’s going to change your life; I get each month right here in Open Skies. that now, I really do. Make no mistake, Why? Well... Expo, obviously. this is going to be some show. But I understand the initial confusion as well. Enjoy the issue

NOw aVailablE ON yOuR iPad

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OS80_006-009 Flannel & Editor's Letter.indd 9 9/20/17 1:07 PM Let us transport you to the shores of the Arabian Gulf

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OS80_011 Contents.indd 11 9/20/17 1:10 PM purdey.pdf 1 9/20/17 10:49 AM

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K Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences

Stay 22

Experience Neighbourhood Lunch With 14 28 36 FRONT

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Emirates operates nine daily flights to London. Choose from six daily services to London Heathrow and three daily services to London Gatwick.

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OCTOBER 5-8 FRIEZE LONDON LONDON, UK

AMONGST THE FOLIAGE OF REGENT’S PARK, YOU’LL FIND SOME OF THE MOST EXCITING wORKS OF ART AT THIS MONTH’S FRIEZE LONDON

A short stroll north from W1, where art galleries usually do their business while snugly encased in brick and concrete, you’ll find the bucolic environs of Regent’s Park, this month home to international art fair, Frieze London. Staged by Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover – the publishers of Frieze magazine – it’s an essential on the arts calendar. Champagne is served, parties are thrown and art is bought. Millions of pounds of deals are done each year and have been since the very first Frieze in 2003, which crowned the era of the YBA (Young British Artist) when Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin conquered the art world. This year, watch out for the likes of Kiluanji Kia Henda, a Luanda-based artist who is the winner of this year’s Frieze Artist Award, and who will be presenting a new installation inspired by Lenin and her Angolan homeland. With more than 1,000 artists showcasing works and 160 global galleries participating (based everywhere from Los Angeles to Lima – look out for Berlin’s König Galerie and Dubai’s The Third Line), Frieze has evolved into something of a monster in its 14 years, and now even has a New York spin-off. While visiting the tents are a must, it’s also worth seeking out the sculptures dotted elsewhere around Regent’s Park, like Mallorcan Miquel Barceló’s gigantic elephant and a strange figure by Magdalena Abakanowicz, the famous Polish sculptor who died earlier this year. With talks, films and live performances – a highlight being Yorkshire’s Georgina Starr reading from her esoteric writings – Frieze offers a chance to try before you buy, or just to enjoy the spectacle while you check out the art. Those in the know visit from 5pm to 7pm when the ‘afterwork tickets’ are discounted and the drinks flow. Book ahead though – you won’t want to miss this.

frieze.com /G ETTY w ORDS: CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND IMAGE : B EN S TANSALL

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OctOber 27 Fiesta de los Muertos Dubai, uaE

tHe first biG post-summer Dubai GiG sees animateD banD gorillaz, Grime star storMzy, anD a Host of otHers Get spookY in tHe citY

In Mexico, Dia de Muertos (Day of the Muertos. A live music festival based around nothing of substance.” The pair decided Dead) has been celebrated for 2,500 years. Halloween, this year’s line-up includes on the idea of a cartoon band that would Not as gruesome as it might sound, the animated UK band Gorillaz, grime artist comment on that and Gorillaz debut album October 31 public holiday focuses on family Stormzy, and Grammy-nominated singer- followed in 2001. Sixteen years – and many and friends, offering prayers for those that songwriter Carly Rae Jepsen – a spooky mix awards – later, the band fronted by Albarn are no longer with us. if ever there was one. along with regular collaborators such as Normally lasting around three days, While Stormzy is arguably the man of Grace Jones, Noel Gallagher and De La Soul the celebration was inscribed in the 2017 and Rae Jepsen will pacify the pop are a hot ticket wherever they perform. Representative List of the Intangible Cultural music lovers in the city, it’s the return to the There’s a lot of live music coming to Heritage of Humanity by Unesco in 2008, region of Gorillaz that has made headlines. the region between now and the end of alongside activities such as falconry in the The band was allegedly created by Blur 2017, but this is the first big post-summer UAE, calligraphy in China and, erm, beer- frontman Damon Albarn and his flatmate concert. Head there for what’s sure to be making in Belgium. (and illustrator) Jamie Hewlett following a a spectacle on the sugar-skull shaped stage This month sees what’s rapidly becoming late night conversation in 1998. “If you watch at the Dubai Autism Rocks Arena. Ghoulish a regular, albeit unofficial, offshoot of the MTV for too long,” said Hewlett staring fancy dress is optional.

holiday in Dubai, courtesy of Fiesta de los into the television, “it’s a bit like hell. There’s 117live.com ima G e: ett Y

You can listen to Gorillaz latest album, Humanz, on channel 2098 on ice Digital Widescreen. You can also enjoy their 2005 classic album Demon Days on channel 3340.

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expo

Youth development Alya Al Ali is the youngest director in the Expo 2020 team, and it’s her job to make young people central to its vision. This is how she’s making a difference

“My responsibility is to engage with young In order to achieve this Al Ali and 18,000 students, but the numbers are rising people,” explains Alya Al Ali, director of her team are hosting school roadshows, by the week. They have also held youth labs Expo 2020 youth engagement programme, organising events, offering apprenticeship specifically about the Sustainability Pavilion Youth Connect. programmes, and holding youth labs that – one of the three main pavilions being built At 24, she’s the youngest director in encourage young people to shape and for Expo – and even organised field trips to the entire team, having joined straight define elements of Expo 2020. All of which the construction site. from the American University of Sharjah mirrors the focus of the government itself “Something like this has never happened with a degree in business management. to empower young people. in our region before,” says Al Ali. “But it is Initially an analyst, then a senior analyst, “Our theme is ‘Connecting Minds, now, and we’re going to make the most of she was appointed to her current position Creating the Future’ and they reflect that,” it. It’s vital that young people are part of just over a year ago. says Al Ali of the UAE’s younger generation. what’s happening, too, so they can make “But it’s not simply young people,” “They are the main connectors and the sure they reap the benefits.” she explains. “It’s the entire education main creators of the future. So we cannot expo2020dubai.ae landscape, so it’s their teachers, their talk about connections and we cannot talk principals and sometimes even their about creating the future without talking parents that we’re looking towards, making about young people.” sure that young people are inspired, So far, those roadshows have visited involved, and part of this journey.” more than 50 schools and reached over

Follow all the latest news and information on Expo 2020 every month in Open Skies. Grab it on board from your seat pocket or, if you’re not flying, simply download it free from emirates.com.

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OS80_018 Expo.indd 18 9/20/17 6:35 PM BUILDING The BradBury Building A building in Downtown LA that acquired cult status thanks to Ridley Scott’s distopian masterpiece, Blade Runner, the Bradbury remains a cultural gem in the city

WORDS: MaRina Kay

t took nearly a century for the landscape of future Los Angeles. Short sci-fi novelist Ray Bradbury, by the way) is Bradbury Building to acquire pop-icon of giving it top billing, Scott turned ‘The the oldest of them all. Opened in 1893, status. While its stunning Victorian Bradbury’ into a star. nearly 80 years before being listed on the I atrium appeared in film noirs – The building looks far from Scott’s National Register of Historical Places, it Shockproof and D.O.A in the 1940s – and vision of a dystopian 2019. Today, the was later landmarked in 1977, and safely thrillers like the remake of Fritz Lang’s M, red Romanesque façade on revitalised harbours an interior that no other has it wasn’t until 1982 that the world really Broadway draws less attention than been able to replicate. honed in and took note. At the heart of the revamped landmarks surrounding The controversy surrounding its rightful director Ridley Scott’s cult classic Blade it, such as Million Dollar Theatre and designer reads a little like a Hollywood Runner loomed this edifice, a maze fit for Grand Central Market. Yet the five-storey script. In the 1890s, when LA was a gruelling chase scene, the setting of the exterior, its entrance embossed simply coming into its own, millionaire mining film’s stunning climax, baked into the gritty with ‘Bradbury’ (not associated with the tycoon Lewis Bradbury commissioned

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constraints forced him to use smoke, trash and revolving spotlights – even the light looks wet – to reflect the hellish world outside. “There are some remarkable images,” wrote Pauline Kael in her review for The New Yorker. “For example, when the camera plays over the iron grillwork… the iron looks tortured into shape.” The last part of the movie takes place here, home to genetic scientist JF Sebastian, and ends on top of the building with Roy Batty, played by the amazing Rutger Hauer, delivering an emotional “tears in rain” speech. Today, you’ll find fan material about The Bradbury’s role in Blade Runner posted inside and outside the building. More recently, it has featured in the fictional worlds of Marvel and DC Comics, as well as The Artist. Sadly, Bradbury never saw his monument realised – he died before it opened. Ageing into decrepitude, the building was purchased in 1989 by The facade (above) and atrium in Blade Runner (below) lawyer-turned-developer Ira Yellin and restored with the help of the Community local architect Sumner Hunt to design hydraulic-powered birdcage elevators Redevelopment Agency. After Yellin passed, a commercial building on the corner of glide between floors. Janet Jackson used his widow sold the building in 2003 South Broadway and 3rd Street. Unmoved these to full effect when music videos for a bargain price of US$6 million to by Hunt’s designs, however, Bradbury were still a thing. After an immaculately Downtown Properties Holdings, which turned over the job to Hunt’s draftsman, choreographed Rhythm Nation dance also owns the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel George Wyman, who sought inspiration sequence sheathed in smoke, she makes and several restored residential buildings. from the utopian novel Looking Backward: her dramatic exit, ascending toward the Efforts to revitalise downtown LA 2000 to 1887, by Edward Bellamy. The crystal dome. have been underway for years now; blueprint is rumoured to be based on That smoke-and- in 2017, hip Blue Bottle Coffee this passage: “It was the first interior of a mirrors technique took over The Bradbury’s twentieth-century public building that I had was perfected by prominent street-level ever beheld… I was in a vast hall full of Blade Runner a corner. At last count, the light, received not alone from the windows decade earlier. tenants’ directory was on all sides, but from the dome, the point Ridley Scott initially down to four, including of which was a hundred feet above.” copped flack The Yellin Company LLC, Entering The Bradbury from Broadway, for choosing the though the sunlit court is you’ll walk through a nondescript corridor Bradbury Building as always bustling with tourists that suddenly opens to a court soaked a live filming location: (you can’t venture beyond in sunlight. Rectilinear balconies – some “‘The Bradbury Building? the ground level unless you have cantilevered – made of ornate wrought But everyone on TV uses it!’” business in the building). Whether The iron imported from France wind their way said Scott of the reaction. “But I said, ‘back Bradbury will continue life as the city’s up 50 feet to a roof of plate glass. The off! I’m gonna use it and I’m gonna shoot oldest office building is up for discussion. late great photographer Julius Shulman it in a way you have never seen before.’” But in this city of tomorrow, where captured its symmetry superbly for the To the exterior, he added a canopy and buildings dodge the wrecking ball, still Southern California American Institute of twisted columns made of Styrofoam to stands The Bradbury, a cache of moments Architects. In addition to stairwells, two achieve a comic book effect. Inside, budget captured through time.

Emirates operates a daily service to Los Angeles with the Airbus A380.

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Taj Dubai DUBAI, UAE

Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGE: TAj

The toughest part about staying in one Suite. Decorated with traditional Indian Khalifa, a private yoga studio and gym. of Taj Dubai’s signature suites is knowing motifs and cute handicraft, its prime Only rabid hunger can make a man where to look first: the stunning open plan location on the 33rd floor makes the leave such luxury, so head downstairs layout and palatial designs of the interior, large outdoor terrace (pictured) perfect for craft ale at British gastro pub the or the unobstructed views of the world’s for drinks with friends before heading into Eloquent Elephant, reserve a table at tallest building? First World problems of Downtown Dubai for the evening. authentic Indian restaurant, Bombay the highest order. If you’d like to go one step further, Brasserie, and close the evening with There are 296 rooms and suites here, then the Presidential Suite – occupying cocktails – and yet more Downtown but if you’re going for pure luxury, then the entire 35th floor – has highlights views – at Treehouse. consider two options: firstly, the Maharaja including 360-degree views of the Burj taj.tajhotels.com

Learn more about great places to stay in the Dubai Hotels podcast on ice channel 1504.

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Stay:contemporary

hotel gotham MANCHESTER, UK

Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGE: HoTEL GoTHAm

Housed in a Grade II listed building at the Although there are 60 rooms and windows, Honey Restaurant is perfect for heart of the northern powerhouse city, suites, this very much feels like a boutique breakfast or dinner. The menu has some Manchester, Hotel Gotham has developed hotel. Artfully styled and with playful nods really nice twists on classic local dishes (be a reputation as something of a VIP spot in to the building’s financial history – we sure to try the lamb hotpot), then follow the centre of town. loved the moneybag laundry sacks and it up at private member’s spot, Club Brass. Designed by British architect Edwin FT-styled salmon pink Gotham Bugle hotel With free entry for guests, a drink or two Lutyens in 1935, the Art Deco features of newspaper in our room. here is as stylish an end to the day as you this former bank were lovingly restored and With stunning views of the city courtesy can find in the city. turned into a seven-storey hotel in 2015. of the building’s original half-moon hotelgotham.co.uk

Emirates operates three daily A380 services to Manchester.

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zagreb by the book Croatia is on a mission to give its people free access to more than 100,000 books. But while free reading zones are nothing new, a free reading country… now that would be something

WORDS anD imageS: SaRah fReeman

offee drinking is a serious business in Zagreb, Croatia’s undersung capital. So much so, C they even have a name for it: spica. So where better to pilot an initiative to open up a free virtual library of more than 100,000 books than at one of the city’s favourite coffee haunts: Velvet Cafe. Run by avant-garde Croatian florist and artist Sasa Sekoranja, together with close

friend and PR, Ana Petricic Gojanovic, the Seaside town Opatija is aiming to become boudoir-themed cult cafe (which reopened Croatia’s first free reading town in 2009) delivers more than just shots of espresso. The cultural hub, decked out with books, to poetry and philosophy in more crimson sofas, flamboyant floral displays and than 10 languages – completely free of huge chandeliers, also hosts regular poetry charge. Users simply downloaded an app readings, book signings and music events. onto their tablet or smartphone, using It was one such poetry evening that an access code supplied by the cafe. convinced Mirela Roncevic – writer, The sponsor (in this case Velvet) pays publishing industry consultant (and now for the user’s reading experience, so that Velvet regular) – that this was the perfect publishers like Lonely Planet, O’Reilly and venue to develop into the world’s first Cavendish (as well as the books’ respective free reading zone cafe. “Imagine turning authors) get paid their usual fee. Velvet into a library more powerful than If Velvet’s shelves tell you anything, it’s the city library,” she explains. And that’s that this venue is nurturing actual books pretty much what she managed to do, as well as their electronic counterparts. albeit temporarily. Last September, patrons Mirela is keen to assert she doesn’t want were able to browse everything from virtual libraries to compete with physical international bestsellers and academic books. Despite the digital revolution, sales of

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Velvet Cafe

Mirela was born into a farming family. In December, Croatia Reads was rolled Growing up in a small town in the southern out as a pilot across the entire country Adriatic, she didn’t step foot inside a real for a month-long period, with over 32,000 library until she moved to New York as residents and visitors registering in the a teenager. And despite her traditional first two weeks, downloading hundreds of publishing background, including working thousands of books in the process. as a book review editor for 12 years, it was Sustaining the project nation-wide is the a gig consulting for an American e-book challenge. A significant step towards this is company that fuelled her belief in the developing the seaside town of Opatija (a power of digital books. Two years ago Mirela 90-minute drive from the capital) into the returned to her native Croatia and had her country’s first fully-fledged free-reading town. Eat Pray Love moment, “Elizabeth Gilbert With its manicured Viennese-style gardens, (author of the bestseller) found her Brazilian sweeping seascapes and elegant Belle and I found my free reading zones.” Époque villas, Opatija – once the darling Free reading zones were first established of royalties during the Austro-Hungarian in America, converting public and private Empire – may seem an unlikely poster child spaces such as hospitals and hotels into for the project, but its busy cultural calendar virtual libraries. Whilst the concept and rivals Zagreb’s. It keeps good company too, technology are nothing new, the resource with the nearby, left-leaning city of Rijeka Mirela Roncevic hasn’t been utilised to empower an entire set to be the European Capital of Culture country. Until now, that is. Beyond Velvet in 2020. Sponsored by the University of hardback books have actually surged in the Cafe’s neo-baroque walls, Mirela has set Rijeka, Opatija Reads launched for a fortnight last four years across Europe and America, her sights on making Croatia the world’s on September 27 (it runs until October and independent bookstores in cities like first countrywide free-reading zone with 11) transforming the town’s spa hotels, lido New York and London are thriving. her app, Croatia Reads. Bearing in mind beach and 12km-long seafront promenade But is the world passing libraries by? that Croatia has a population of just 4.1 into one giant, free digital library, which will “I am a library person,” Mirela tells me. million (roughly the population of New hopefully outlive its pilot phase. “However, e-books can democratise York’s Queens and Manhattan boroughs Whilst nothing beats the tangible and open (reading) up to a large group combined), this may not be such an interaction you have with a book, there of people beyond libraries. The reality is, insurmountable task. Its very geography – a is no denying the role free reading zones there are some city libraries with vast country of over 1,000 islands with a huge could play in engaging a wider audience. In collections that simply aren’t readily rural population – means that the resource Mirela’s words: “The idea that a kid growing accessible to people beyond the right would be reaching people who don’t readily up in New York and a kid in Zambia would zip code.” have access to libraries. have equal access to books is exciting.”

In June of this year Emirates launched its new daily service to Croatia. The flight is operated by a Boeing 777-300, and is the only wide-body service operating to and from Zagreb.

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IMAGES: XXX

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DEL MAR, SAN DIEGO, US Words: Marina Kay iMaGEs: VincEnt LonG

or a beach town tucked away in San Diego’s North County, Del Mar certainly packs plenty of celebrity punch. Intended as a glamorous resort destination from the time Colonel Jacob Taylor acquired 338 acres of waterfront land in the 1880s, this coastal enclave has grown to harbour a Fconstellation of talent. Golden Globe-winning actress Angie Dickinson calls it home, as does legendary skateboarder Tony Hawk and motivational speaker Tony Robbins – the latter once taking residence in the Del Mar Castle, an historical multimillion-dollar, 10,000-square-foot hilltop property overlooking the ocean. Meanwhile, after his divorce from I Love Lucy’s Lucille Ball, Golden Age actor and musician Desi Arnaz retired to his ranch close to the Del Mar Thoroughbred Club Racetrack. In fact, Del Mar may be known more for horse racing than its Hollywood glitterati. This track, the second largest horse- racing venue in the western US, recently celebrated 80 years since singer Bing Crosby greeted its first guests on July 3, 1937. November marks Del Mar’s debut as host of the Breeders’ Cup, a premier competition that’s considered bigger than the Super Bowl by the horse-racing industry. The Breeders’ Cup began in 1984 and currently alternates between venues in the US, the weeklong programme kicks off with festivities leading up to the two-day main event that runs from November 3 to 4. Celebrities, horse racing enthusiasts, out-of-towners and locals are expected to bet more than US$160 million, meaning that all bets are on Del Mar track becoming a firm favourite in the Breeders’ Cup schedule.

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IN The AReA (Two–minuTe walk) DIAMONDS + TIARAS AnnmArie D’ercole

Fifteen years ago, jeweller Annmarie D’Ercole set up shop in Del Mar. Located right in the heart of the village, a five-minute walk from the ocean and adjacent to world-famous L’Auberge Del Mar hotel, her eponymous shop stocks womenswear by Joie, JET, Ramy Brooke and Illia, plus premium denim by J Brand, Del mar HaT Company Mother and Hudson – brands all in sync with that relaxed California lifestyle. But If you’re aiming for some glamorous the real draw here is her custom-designed and LA-made jewellery. Annmarie’s race attire, then your next stop should delicate everyday pieces combine 14-karat white, yellow and rose gold with be here for the obligatory show- stopping hat. The selection at Del Mar diamonds, and coloured precious and semi-precious gemstones. Come horse- Hat Company ranges from elegant racing season, the shop draws a fashion-forward crowd seeking more substantial headpieces like those favoured by pieces such as sliced diamond necklaces and earrings, diamond eternity bands, the Duchess of Cambridge to more pave diamond rings and statement necklaces. extravagant wide-brimmed styles for a vintage feel. 207 15th Street, Del Mar CA 92014 | 858.792.6953 | shopannmarie.com 1555 CaMIno Del Mar #313, Del Mar, Ca 92014, 888.424.4287

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OS80_028-034 Neighbourhood.indd 30 9/20/17 4:43 PM As the new heart of Abu Dhabi, Makers District is a mixed use development strategically located in Reem Island THE NEW in Abu Dhabi, across from the cultural hub of Saadiyat Island, home to the Zayed National Museum, Louvre Abu Dhabi and Guggenheim Abu Dhabi. The scenic waterfront development offers contemporary living in a dynamic and HEART OF ABU multi-layered experience through residential, hospitality, commercial and retail. It promotes culture and tradition, a place where education DHABI. and inspiration is cultivated, a place where creativity thrives. It is the catalyst that invigorates a cultural movement within the UAE. The culture of Makers District is built on informal, networked, peer-led and shared learning – motivated by creativity. It is a true community that embodies a balanced lifestyle, doused in culture.

makersdistrict.ae Neighbourhood

In ThE ArEA (One–minute bike ride) STYLE + COCKTAILS Gary’s studio

Although Del Mar Racetrack does not enforce a dress code, it’s an occasion that demands you dress to impress. Guys into preppy and smart casual styles can select from cashmere L’Auberge deL mAr knits, Patrick Assaraf mock zips and Rag and Bone crew necks, as well as on-trend sports Because del mar translates from coats – the grey plaid wool Hugo Boss Hutson Sports Coat with notched lapels and chest the Spanish “by the sea”, you really should head to the water-facing pocket is perfect with chinos and a white shirt and tie. If you decide to go the full suit, Living Room Bar. Situated in the then you have your pick of the latest cuts from top fashion houses including Isaia, Hugo recently revamped award-winning Boss, Canali and Zegna. Accessories are plentiful here, too, with a great range of ties and L’Auberge Del Mar, it’s a plush pocket squares – just remember the old style rule: to avoid being a little OTT, remove meeting spot, popular with locals and hotel guests at golden hour. one accessory before leaving the house. As for shoes: Mabel by Salvatore Ferragamo and 1540 CAMino DeL MAR, DeL MAR, CA 92014, 13880 Cesar by Magnanni Footwear are fine choices. 858.259.1515, LAuBeRgeDeLMAR.CoM Del Mar Plaza | 1555 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar | CA 92014, 858.794.0740

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OS80_028-034 Neighbourhood.indd 32 9/20/17 6:40 PM COMFORTme

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IN THE AREA FINE DINING + THOROUGHBREDS (Fourteen–minute drive) Addison

If you’re a fan of fine dining and the type of Michelin-starred quality you’ll find at legendary US restaurants such as DC’s French Laundry and Chicago’s Alinea, then Addison is worth the 10-minute drive from the ocean. Located within the grounds of the extraordinary Fairmont Grand Del Mar – a world unto itself – it is housed in a standalone stone Renaissance-style building overlooking mountain canyon and golf course views. The only AAA Five Diamond restaurant in Southern California, it’s helmed by Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef William Bradley, whose appreciation Seagrove Park for French technique, local and exotic ingredients, and artful plating makes for an The best spot to see dazzling panoramic extraordinary experience. Depending on the season, the chef’s 10-course tasting sunsets over the Pacific Ocean, this menu might start with kumamoto oysters and Santa Barbara sea urchin, followed by park also functions as an open-air gallery, featuring ‘The Art of the Horse’ sake cured kampachi and then Ossetra caviar with leek cremeux. The wait staff keeps statues decorated by local artists in service perfectly orchestrated. Set aside about three hours for a well-paced dinner. anticipation of the Breeders’ Cup. Tag 5200 Grand Del Mar Way | San Diego, CA 92130, 858.314.1900 | addisondelmar.com your pictures #BC17 #ArtOfTheHorse. 15TH ST & COAST Blvd, del MAr, CA 92014

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CMY

K Lunch with

wordS: CHArLIE CArVEr IMAGES: rEBECCA MATTHEwS

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MARCUS SAMUELSSON we meet the chef and restaurateur at his new place in east london to talk soul food, community, and cooking for obama

arcus Samuelsson, the chef Barack Obama chose only black kid,” he says. “My ultimate goal was to own or be the to cook for his first State Dinner as President of chef of my own place. I spoke to chef, and he said, ‘It’s not going to the United States in 2009, looks comfortable sitting happen for you [in Europe].’ It wasn’t a racist suggestion, I knew he Mdown, but it’s clearly not his natural state. He’s not cared about me a lot.” here to eat lunch. He’s here to work. It wasn’t the first time Samuelsson had been made aware of Here is Tienda Roosteria, the light-filled street-level taco the unique challenges he would face. “A black man’s journey will restaurant the chef has just opened in The Curtain, a new boutique always be very different,” he says. “You can say, ‘Oh, how unfair, hotel in London’s Shoreditch. Downstairs is Red Rooster Shoreditch, how difficult,’ or you can see it as a way of getting stronger. I never Samuelsson’s first attempt to replicate the spirit of his restaurant in looked at it as a problem. I looked at it as an advantage.” Harlem, New York, the restaurant where Obama held a US$30,800 His parents were an inspiration. “They were also a minority,” per ticket Democratic National Committee fundraiser in 2011, says Samuelsson. “They were white parents with black kids.” wowing his influential guests with Samuelsson’s “comfort food Lennart in particular encouraged his son to question the status celebrating the roots of American cuisine”. quo and think deeply about how he could move forward. Samuelsson does not so much as glance at the menu. So neither In 1994 Samuelsson travelled to New York to apprentice at do I. He does not order food. So neither do I. It is clear there Scandinavian restaurant Aquavit. The following year, having been will be no ‘lunch with’ Marcus Samuelsson. Just the story of the promoted to executive chef at just 23, he became the youngest 46-year-old’s life so far. But what a story it is. chef ever to receive a three-star Samuelsson was born Kassahun Tsegie, in Ethiopia, in 1971, rating from the The New York but having lost their mother to tuberculosis, in 1973 he and his AfricA wAs Times. In 1999, still in his 20s, he sister, Linda, were adopted by Lennart and Ann Marie Samuelsson pArt of my received the Rising Star Chef of and taken to live in Gothenburg, Sweden. The couple had already the Year award from the James adopted Anna, an eight-year-old girl born to a Swedish woman story, And Beard Foundation. and a Jamaican man. when i looked In the eyes of the critics, Samuelsson’s first memory of his life in Sweden is of food. Samuelsson was a success. But “I remember going berry picking with my sisters and my At AmericAn he says he didn’t feel like one, grandparents,” he says. “It’s a memory that has been reinforced food i sAw and over the next decade a by pictures of us in the woods picking blueberries with blueberry combination of experiences juice all over our faces.” thAt A big inspired him to change his Lennart Samuelsson was a geologist, but he came from a pArt of it direction of travel. rural family of fishermen, and it was during school holidays with In 2000, Linda located their his grandparents that his son’s food education began. He fished, cAme from birth father, Tsegie, and the pair foraged and was taught how to cook by his grandmother, Helga. AfricA, too travelled to Ethiopia to meet “In the country there’s little separation between adult and child. him and their eight half siblings, You have a knife, you clean your mackerel, there’s blood.” reconnecting him with his In his mid-teens he flirted with the dream of becoming a African roots. Then 9/11 encouraged him to reassess his priorities. professional footballer, but instead he chose to pursue cooking, “I was not mentally where I wanted to be,” he says. “I started to enrolling in the Culinary Institute in Gothenburg and then going ask myself bigger questions: ‘What are you doing this for?’” on to work with “the best chefs in the city”. He then ventured In 2006, he again travelled to Africa and produced a book abroad, honing his skills in Switzerland, Austria and, finally, France, on African cooking, The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the where he worked at Georges Blanc’s eponymous three Michelin Foods and Flavors of Africa, and he moved to Harlem. He started star restaurant in Vonnas. looking into the neighbourhood’s history and the African American It was in France that Samuelsson started to think about moving experience in America: the Great Migration, jazz, the Civil Rights away from Europe. “Working in those kitchens I was always the Movement and, of course, soul food.

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I spoke to my “Africa was part of my story,” says Samuelsson. “When I looked mum and she at American food, I saw that a big saId, ‘Why do part of it came from Africa.” In 2007-2008 the financial you alWays crisis hit and people started to cook for turn away from “fine dining” in search of something more the rIch? We in tune with the times. “I spoke dIdn’t groW to my Mum, and she said, ‘Why do you always cook for the rich up WIth only guy? We didn’t grow up with rIch people’ only rich people. We didn’t grow up with rich people at all. Why don’t you just cook for regular people?’” he says, rapping his knuckles on the table. It took another two years, during which he married Ethiopian- born model Gate Maya Haile, before all the pieces fell into place, but he finally opened Red Rooster Harlem in 2010. He had his own restaurant and a clear sense of purpose: to become deeply embedded in the Harlem community and to help it flourish. “It’s my job to hire from the community,” he says. “Even if you’ve been to jail. So what? You stole a car when you were 18, you’re now 26. You’re not going to get a chance? Come on. It’s crazy.” “People talk to me every day about the change Red Rooster has made [in Harlem],” he says. “It’s real.” According to the Samuelsson, most Harlem residents know somebody who has worked at Red Rooster or Harlem EatUp! the chef’s annual food festival in Morningside Park in May. Did he speak to Obama about this social mission? “He sees the ambition, the intent, our hiring policy. He knows.” I suggest that, considering Red Rooster’s strong ties to Harlem, opening in London seems a strange move. “I never wanted to do another Red Rooster,” he says. “I was just not into it, because I thought it was so connected just to Harlem.”

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But Samuelsson identified similarities between the two neighbourhoods. “You could go to London many times and never have been East, right? There was another poetic story here, very different to Harlem, but there was a mystique here that was interesting to me. The graffiti, the Jewish cooking, the Bangladeshi cooking, Old Spitalfields Market, Hackney, Broadway Market, there was a stickiness, something that spoke to me.” Our conversation over, a feast is transferred to our table, but Samuelsson is up and changed into his Red Rooster shirt and apron. I sit alone, devouring fried yard bird from the Red Rooster Shoreditch menu, a dish that consists of a pair of giant chicken thighs marinated in buttermilk, coconut milk, garlic and chicken shake, a combination of Ethiopian berbere, smoked paprika, ground cumin, celery salt and garlic granules, and fried to a burnt orange crisp, sitting on a bed of mashed yam, collards and beans. The ultimate “comfort food”. From the same menu, there is salmon in an awase glaze; then from the Tienda Roosteria menu, there’s dense crumbly wedges of cornbread, a mound of chips and guacamole, and the Bad Hombre, a taco piled high with spicy fried chicken and a refreshing pico de gallo salsa. While I eat, I watch Samuelsson giving a cooking masterclass that is being filmed on an iPhone and streamed live on Facebook. He’s not here to eat lunch. He’s here to work.

The Bill 1 x cornbread (US$5.45) 1 x guac’ & chips (US$6.80) 1 x Bad Hombre (US$6.12) 1 x fried yard bird US$26) 1 x awase glazed salmon (US$29)

Total: US$73.37

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OS80_036-039 LunchWith.indd 39 9/20/17 4:48 PM This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme A collection of stories from around the world

The City Rising 42

The Price Of Being Joly The Third Wave 50 56 MAIN

OS80_041 Main.indd 41 9/20/17 6:42 PM THE

CITY RISING

OS80_042-048 ExpoRev1.indd 42 9/20/17 6:43 PM As the three-year countdown to Expo 2020 begins, we examine how the world’s fair will allow the passion, industry and endeavour of Dubai to connect minds and power amazing ideas around the globe

WORDS: Iain Akerman

OS80_042-048 ExpoRev1.indd 43 9/20/17 6:43 PM very minute a new truck headway, while the importance of enters the Expo 2020 site sustainability is evident throughout the in Dubai South. All are extensive, dust-blown site. All excavated scanned in with QR codes earth is being re-used, on-site lights and driven into what looks are solar powered, and the steel from like any other construction previous buildings is being repurposed. zone. Yet, within the space of three years, “This is literally a 24-hour job,” says Ethis site will become home to the most Ahmed Al Khatib, senior vice-president anticipated event to ever be held in Dubai. for real estate at Expo 2020. He has two Right now, however, there are mobile phones, neither of which leave only two buildings: the Expo 2020 his side. Ever. headquarters and a half-sized mock-up And for good reason. Al Khatib is of a country pavilion. Everything else is responsible for the overall construction construction related. There’s an on-site of the Expo 2020 site, which, in three batching plant for concrete, three 132kb years’ time, will host the first World substations, 12 tower cranes, a number Expo to ever be held in the Middle East, of air-conditioned rest huts, and a handy Africa and South Asia. With 25 million colour-coded signage system. Here and visitors expected to attend and the UAE there the early signs of structures are to receive an estimated economic boost beginning to emerge. of US$34.5 billion, there’s no pressure. An extension to the existing Metro “Absolutely, there’s no pressure,” system, which will connect both the says Al Khatib with a laugh. “I don’t think Expo 2020 site and Al Maktoum the team sleeps. We have consultants International Airport, is also making and contractors from all over the world,

How the 438-hectare site of Expo 2020 will look

so if it is night over here, it’s morning in Chicago, so working around the clock is very, very necessary. “But it’s exciting and it’s literally a one-of-a-kind experience. I don’t know if I’m ever going to have the privilege to be part of a similar project again. It’s a university on its own. You think you know everything but actually when it comes to the amount of logistics, the amount of challenges, the different calibre of consultants and contractors, you’re constantly learning. But everybody’s working towards one goal: to make an exceptional experience for the visitors and for the country, and to make sure that it lives long in the memory.” The figures involved give you a sense of the scale. A total of 4.7 million square metres of earth had to be moved

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before construction could begin at The first question I get from everybody, be the 438-hectare site, which is situated it a businesswoman or a seven-year-old, is, not far from Al Maktoum International Airport. With 5,000 cubic metres of ‘What’s going to happen after Expo?’ concrete currently being poured every week and an additional 500 tonnes of Sustainability pavilion. The latter, for start coming in. But we are taking all steel being brought in every seven days, which main basement construction is measures to make sure this is a very foundations for the site’s three themed to begin shortly, will be able to capture smooth and easy experience. The districts are already complete. energy from the sun and fresh water infrastructure and the power in any These districts will be integral to the from humid air. development are the most critical site, converging at its centrepiece – the “This is a very complex project,” items and we are actually finishing 150-metre wide, 69-metre tall domed admits Al Khatib. “We are building a them ahead of time.” Al Wasl Plaza – and housing more than city. Right now we are at around 7,000 In total, two square kilometres 180 individual country pavilions. There workers on site and we are expecting of the site will form the Expo event will also be separate themed pavilions, to reach around 37,000. Then there’s area while the remaining land will be including the Santiago Calatrava- the equipment, the laydown areas, dedicated to support facilities such as designed UAE pavilion, modelled on the the access roads, the food (how to the Expo 2020 Village, warehousing, wings of a falcon; London-based Foster feed everybody on site), the waste logistics, transport, hotels and a public + Partners’ tiered trefoil-shaped Mobility management. It will become more park. The goal is to complete all pavilion; and Grimshaw Architects’ and more challenging as the countries construction work a full year before

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Success for me would be if people said, near the end of the Expo, ‘I can’t believe it’s going to be over, can we have it forever?’

the event is due to take place. “The challenge was also how to with a chuckle. She is relaxed, articulate All of this comes at a price of course. create buildings that suit the future and composed. This year US$3.1 billion in Expo contracts real estate market. So we looked at “The first question I get from will be awarded, including the US$600 maximising efficiency, we looked at everybody, whether I’m presenting to million contract won by Dubai-based Al- how to make our designs as modular a businesswoman or a seven-year-old, Futtaim Carillion earlier this year. as possible so we can expand the is ‘what’s going to happen after Expo?’ “Our sustainability KPIs (key buildings based on market demand. And that’s related a lot to the site,” says performance indicators) are More than 80 per cent of whatever Faraidooni. “So right now we’re building DID YOU KNOW? very high and very challenging,” we construct for the expo will remain structures and I work very closely with The theme of Expo says Al Khatib. “The Sustainability as a legacy.” Ahmed [Al Khatib]. When we first 2020 is Connecting Minds, Creating the Pavilion, for example, defines What happens after the event is started out he managed the whole design Future. It will run from the model from all perspectives. important to Expo 2020. So much so that process, but my role was ‘how is this going October 20, 2020 until April 10, 2021. Visitors From power generation, to it intends to leave an economic, physical, to be transitioned or repurposed for can expect a full water generation, to harvesting social and reputational legacy. future use?’ My team and I spent a lot of programme of events, humidity from the air… it will “Sounds very boring doesn’t it,” says time trying to build a vision for the city performances, galleries and installations. be a benchmark for future Marjan Faraidooni, senior vice-president after Expo, and we did that. We have a sustainability practices. for legacy development at Expo 2020, strategy, we know the type of industries

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OS80_042-048 ExpoRev1.indd 46 9/20/17 6:43 PM For an update on the spectacular plans for Expo 2020 Dubai, listen to an interview with HE Reem Al Hashimy, on channel 1500 on ice.

and world-class innovation, educational, of people, getting them to feel that they’re cultural and entertainment facilities, all part of it. The element of pride was very with the idea of creating a destination to big. But also that the Expo is a vehicle for ‘connect, create and innovate’. us to get people learning about things that “The market is going to know that are important for the future of the world. we’re not going to die after the expo, To inspire them, particularly the youth, and that the city’s going to continue to live,” to make them feel that they have a part says Faraidooni. “That’s one of the biggest to play in this world. portions of the legacy. “We want people to remember “Our leadership, and it starts from their experiences here as one of the Sheikh Mohammed, was very clear,” she best experiences they’ve had in their adds. “That you guys are planning for an life. And I give the example of people event that can’t be short of amazing. But I’ve met on this journey, who, for he also said you need to make sure that it example, visited the Montreal ’67 expo has a good legacy. With that he meant the and as a result of it became architects. social legacy is there, meaning the inclusion That’s legacy. For me, to meet a person

we want to bring in, we know that we need to bring technology companies because that’s how the world is progressing, but we also know that there’s something special about the site, that it did host a mega event that was important for the history of our nation, so we also wanted to retain some of the elements that made it special.” The Sustainability Pavilion, for example, will become a science exploratorium; the Conference and Exhibition Campus will become a major event and exhibition space; and the Mobility pavilion will be transformed into high-end office space. All will form part of what will be known as District 2020, a multi-purpose development designed to contribute to the UAE’s drive towards a knowledge- based economy. When transitioned to District 2020 (which will take an estimated six months after the event), the Expo site will include 65,000 square metres of residential space, 135,000 square metres of commercial space,

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who made a career out of being this misconception that it’s just another People won’t perhaps inspired by architecture that he saw at really big exhibition that happens over know that each themed an expo, that’s the sort of legacy we a period of six months for the business district will include want to leave behind. It’s very social, it’s community,” says Faraidooni. “But we’re performance spaces, very inspirational, and it’s tangible.” changing that narrative. The way we Over the course of the next three describe it right now is as a festival of innovation galleries, years, however, one of the primary innovation, where we as an expo are art installations and challenges will be to explain to the public providing a platform where nations come outdoor gardens what a World Expo actually is. Although together, corporations come together, and there was widespread celebration when they tell us what they’re doing to address Dubai won the bid to host Expo 2020 in challenges we all face as humanity. Considering the scale and scope of 2013, very few people will probably be “I think we’re pretty good in the the challenge ahead and the grandness able to tell you what it involves. business community, they have a pretty of Expo 2020’s vision, Faraidooni is They won’t necessarily know, for good understanding of what it is. Now remarkably relaxed. After all, it’s an example, that each themed district will we need to go to the regular visitor. organisation that grows by the day. “We include performance spaces, innovation People like yourself, your family. ‘Would I have an average of 30 people joining the galleries, art installations and outdoor take my family to the Expo?’” team every month,” she says. gardens. That there will be a children’s So far more than 120 countries have “You know why I’m relaxed?” she park and a full events programme committed to take part, with seventy asks. “Because what’s the point of me for families. That the Expo’s theme is per cent of attendees expected to panicking? We’re all in this together, ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’, be international visitors, the highest everybody’s under pressure, I can’t say or that it aims to be a six-month proportion in Expo history. Running ‘oh my God I’ve got so much to do’. It’s celebration of creativity, innovation, from 20 October 2020 to 10 April not only me, everybody has to do it. humanity and world cultures. 2021 and coinciding with the UAE’s “Success for me would be if people “We realise and we acknowledge 50th anniversary later that year, those said [near the end of Expo 2020] ‘I can’t that after we won the bid people were visitors will be looked after by an army believe it’s going to be over, can we like ‘what is an expo?’ and there was of 30,000 volunteers. have it forever’. If people feel that it was an amazing experience, and that was truly, truly something that they’d like to experience again, that would be a huge testament of success for all of us. “But the work will continue. Our doors will close in 2021 and we will start the transition process into the next phase of this city, which will be District 2020. So we’re going to continue to work.” She adds: “When we [bid to host Expo 2020 we] went in as the underdog. A lot of people don’t understand that. So, by virtue of taking on this challenge we were sending a message to the world that we are an ambitious nation, and we believe that size does not matter but it’s really vision and intent to deliver that matters. “If I look 10 years after the event, I want to be standing in District 2020 and somebody on a bike whizzes by me, just to indicate that people are living in this city, they’re actually working, they’re having lunch in cafes, their children are enjoying the exploratorium, people are on the bike paths and enjoying events in Al Wasl. That Construction is stepped up each week, with an aim to complete all work a full year ahead of schedule for me… I think I would cry then.”

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OS80_050-054 DomJolly Rev1.indd 50 9/20/17 6:01 PM ice of

After a nomadic career making chat shows, travel programmes and one of the most anarchic comedy shows on television, Dom Joly has rediscovered the joy of a hidden camera

Words: Stuart Turton Images: Adam Patterson Joly

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xpecting a comedian to be funny during an interview is like hoping an accountant will do your taxes over dinner. Humour is hard work, and most comedians save their jokes for people who buy tickets. Thankfully, Dom Joly isn’t your typical comedian, as anybody who watched Trigger Happy TV – Joly’s world-conquering hidden-camera show – will attest. Having started a conversation about fame, he’s now telling me a story Eabout an awkward plane journey, which ends – as they often seem to – with Joly becoming the punchline of his own joke. “I was boarding a flight once, and a guy comes up and asks if I’m Dom Joly,” he explains. “I was like [with accent], ‘No Dom Joly, Portuguese,’ and then I get on the flight and he’s sat next to me. I had to pretend to be Portuguese for 14 hours, even watching Portuguese movies. Halfway through, I just thought, ‘What am I doing? I should just come clean.’” From anybody else, I’d affix 17 incredulous question marks to the end of this story, but Joly is sincere in his buffoonery. He’s made a career out of it. In the original Trigger Happy TV, which aired from 2000 to 2003, he crawled across a busy road in a snail suit while drivers watched on bemused; he answered a huge mobile phone in a restaurant, bellowing about how rubbish the food was; and slipped briefcases to strangers on park benches while dressed like a stereotypical Russian spy. It sold all over the world, shifting millions of DVDs, and turning Joly into the “funniest man in Britain”, according to the LA Times. The acclaim almost broke him. “Everyone always assumes I stopped Trigger because I was recognised, and it wasn’t that at all,” he says. “I was “We film a lot on iPhone, because nobody notices them, but that works totally exhausted; I was close to a nervous breakdown. both ways,” he says. “Many times, we were doing something and I’d notice It was two years, I’d just had kids, it was so tiring to three or four people filming it. I used to get annoyed, but they never get the make that show. The fame was very weird. I’d just had whole story. In fact, there’s actually been three things we’ve done this time enough. In hindsight, what I should have done was go where we’ve actually stopped and said, ‘Can we have your footage?’” away for two months, and seen what I felt like.” Humility isn’t something you expect from Joly – an impression that’s Instead he went away for 15 years, making chat somehow completely his own fault and, yet, not entirely his own doing. After shows and travel programmes on his way to a very the success of Trigger Happy TV, the BBC handed him free rein to do whatever showbiz revelation. “My problem was that classic he liked, resulting in This Is Dom Joly, a spoof of those ego-driven chat shows comedian thing: if somebody had told me 10 years where the hosts are constantly trying to overshadow their guests. Every week, prior that I’d make Trigger Happy, I’d be, ‘OK, that’s a larger than life character – who just happened to be called Dom Joly – great,’ but once it happens you think, ‘But I want bullied, bantered and mocked his guests, proving himself a world-class idiot at people to know that I’m serious, I’m an artist, I don’t every possible turn. just want to be known as the squirrel man.’ Eventually “For me it was really clear: I was playing a character because I was I realised, ‘You’re lucky to be genuinely good at one wearing glasses, and I don’t wear glasses normally,” he says. “I wanted 80 per thing, go and do it again.’ I came back and everything cent of people to think ‘that’s funny’ and 20 per cent of people to think ‘it’s had changed. I love being the squirrel man.” a car crash’. I think 80 per cent of people believed that was actually me. My Which is not to say the new Trigger’s a series of wife said, ‘Call it Jom Doly, that’s all you have to do,’ but I was like, ‘No, no, dusty old sketches stitched together and jolted into I want to play it straight.’” He played it so straight that an entire country life with a few familiar catchphrases. Only one of managed to mistake Dom Joly for his fictional, bespectacled counterpart, the classic characters returns – something Joly was earning him a wholly unearned reputation for being brash, gauche and very strict on – and even that’s in a new guise. Episodes pleased with himself. are shorter and were released all at once online, “I could feel it all going pear shaped,” he admits, ruefully. “And, also, I appeasing the binge-watching generation. In fact, didn’t listen to people. It’s funny, I’m at a stage now where I’m confident technology sizzles and sparks right through this revival. enough with my comedy that if somebody tells me something I take it on

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“I had to pretend I was portuguese for 14 hours durIng a flIght, once, even goIng to the extent of watchIng portuguese movIes and talkIng wIth an accent”

Watch Trigger Happy TV, a brand new series of the iconic hidden camera show with Dom Joly and a cast of all-new characters on ice Digital Widescreen channel 1125.

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Fool’s Gold The highs and lows of Dom Joly, in his own words

TriGGer Happy TV (2000-2003) I made Trigger when I was 30 and I think because of that, there was a bit more knowledge and brains to it. Most hidden camera comedy is thick, frat boy stuff, but I thought it could be art.

look aT Me, look aT Me (2004) I wish I hadn’t written this because it’s a confused book. It was supposed to be a spoof of all those celebratory autobiographies, but then I realised I was sort of writing my life but Munchausen-ing it. It was rubbish.

THe dark TourisT (2009) I wrote 20,000 words of notes on my phone, but then had it taken off me in North Korea. It meant I had to scribble everything down on paper – and I have the worst handwriting. When I left the country they thought it was a codebook.

Fool BriTannia (2012) Having been too cocky at the BBC, I was too compliant at ITV and this show ended up with a laughter track. I hated it so much, but some of the ideas were really good. I could take Fool Britannia, re-edit it, and get something great.

TriGGer Happy TV (2018) The worst thing that can happen is that I’m wearing full prosthetics (that board, but when I went to the BBC I was so insecure that if any producer has taken three hours), I walk out, the camera’s running and I sit down at a tried to tell me anything, I’d take it as ‘you’re not funny’ and react against it. bus stop and the guy just goes, ‘Alright It’s just what you learn.” Dom?’ That’s when you realise the full More shows followed, but his career at the BBC soured until he turned shame of what you do. up one day to find his keycard didn’t work any more, signalling his final day – a bureaucratic kick in the backside if ever there was one. An equally unhappy stint at ITV followed, and yet, away from the bright lights of Saturday evening “We were talking the other day about what iTrigger Happy really is, primetime, Joly’s been doing really interesting things, and we decided it was going to a really extreme length to do something including reality shows, writing a couple of travel pointless, but it’s what makes me laugh,” he says. “I get an adrenaline kick books, and hosting a wonderful travel show in which out of doing it. I’m a show off. That’s the worse thing about coming back. he drank his way around the world with a mate. I’m 50 next year, I shouldn’t still be dressing as a squirrel, but what can I And now he’s come full circle. do? It’s what I’m good at.”

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OS80_050-054 DomJolly Rev1.indd 54 9/20/17 6:01 PM Tourism2017_Male_OS FP.ai 1 9/7/17 4:20 PM THE THIRD WAVE AnyTHIng buT A sImplE HIpsTER fAD, coffEE Is TAkEn sERIously In sAn fRAncIsco, AnD oRDERIng A cup In THIs cITy mEAns moRE THAn jusT buyIng A DRInk – IT’s A WAy of lIfE

WoRDs: DEREk oppERmAn ImAgEs: kImbERlEy HAssElbRInk

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OS80_056-063 SanFrancisco Rev1.indd 57 9/20/17 7:00 PM san francisco

uch like perpetual scene is more vibrant than ever, thanks to a 1026 Valencia Street, in 2005 and brought fog, twisting hills and new established order of local roasters who with her an attitude towards coffee that creative thinking, coffee are exploring, challenging and changing the she developed while working as a barista in has long been an very definition of what it means to enjoy a Seattle. That attitude was in line with what is integral part of the San really good cup of coffee. commonly referred to as the “third wave” of MFrancisco experience. This has been true “What defines San Francisco’s coffee coffee consumption, a contemporary way of since the mid-19th century when the city scene? Innovation,” says Eileen Hassi Rinaldi, looking at coffee that follows a hypothetical was first introduced to the exotic bean via the owner and co-founder of Ritual Coffee narrative charting a course through the companies such as Folgers Coffee Company Roasters. She opened her first shop, on beverage’s popularity in America. and Hills Brothers, who set up shop there The first wave equates to appreciation to sell readymade caffeine fix to weary gold of coffee as a quick caffeine delivery miners. The city’s infatuation with coffee was THE THIRD WAVE device – imagine the bitter swill of born. Ever since, it has been the beverage BUILDS OFF THE roadside American diners or the bland of choice for countless generations of SECOND, BUT brew created with mysteriously everlasting San Franciscans, from the Beat poets and synthetic crystals of instant coffee. counter-cultural figures of the 1950s and REIMAGINES The second wave loosely coincides with ’60s to the futuristic tech entrepreneurs COFFEE AS A a shift in perspective towards coffee as a of the present. Along the way, it’s been the COMPLEX CRAFT gourmet – yet still proletarian – drink. A city’s spirit of innovation that’s helped to vast stretch of time that begins somewhere define its role in the broader narrative of BEVERAGE THAT’S in the mid-20th century, it includes such coffee, and today San Francisco’s coffee FULL OF FLAVOUR developments as the introduction of Italian

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espresso, the rise of dark roast speciality process by applying a lighter touch that coffee, a broader awareness of ethical coffee often leaves the finished beans a muted sourcing practices such as fair trade, and matte brown as opposed to an oily black. the mass popularisation of speciality coffee The flavour profile created by this process via global chains like Starbucks. And in fact, can be quite surprising to new initiates. although purists might balk, it was Starbucks Order an espresso at Ritual and you might in particular that set the groundwork for find yourself with a mouthful of unlikely the current generation of roasters by flavours; its espressos reveal a remarkable introducing casual drinkers to the idea of amount of fruity acidity with offbeat notes ordering and paying a premium for speciality such as sweet lime, ripe plum and almond coffee. So what is the second wave? Imagine praline, all of which might be otherwise the rich chocolate and burnt Graham blunted by a longer roasting time. cracker taste of a cup of French roast or the In San Francisco, third wave coffee has forgivingly soft milkiness of a latte. emerged during the past 10 years through In a lot of The third wave builds off the second, the efforts of Ritual’s Rinaldi and other but re-imagines coffee as a complex roasters who apply a similarly obsessed other coffee craft beverage with a full spectrum of mind towards their morning cup of Joe. towns there’s sometimes delicate and sometimes bold These include Four Barrel Coffee, started a mentalIty of flavours dependent on a variety of factors by Jeremy Tooker (who helped co-found such as growing region, freshness, type Ritual) and James Freeman’s Blue Bottle ‘good enough’ of roast, brewing method and brewing Coffee. Although all three differ in their once they’ve time. Roasters of this generation develop respective missions, they’re similar in found somethIng relationships with farmers around the sharing a modern San Franciscan outlook world to directly source unroasted beans towards innovation, or as Rinaldi puts it, that works. to showcase specific varietals from specific “In a lot of other coffee towns there’s this here, you’re lots. There’s a sense of terroir to third wave mentality of ‘good enough’. Once they’ve always askIng: coffee, which is brought out in the roasting found something good – like an espresso how can I make thIs better?

– eIleen hassI rInaldI, co-founder, rItual coffee roasters

blend or the right roast – they stick with it. Here, you’re always asking yourself, ‘How can I make this better? What can I do differently?’” One of the ways in which Rinaldi and other Bay Area coffee shops do things differently is by focusing on the craft of brewing coffee itself and the different ways in which it can be prepared. And one of the most iconic San Franciscan preparations is also one of the plainest: old-fashioned drip coffee, served black. But you won’t find any automatic coffee machine, percolator or other bulk-batch contraption hidden away behind these counters, and while you might find a stray French press, it’d hardly be the most exotic gadget on display. Over the past 10 years, San Francisco has embraced a whole range of previously unusual brewing

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methods that allow the barista to make V.60 from Japan, a single serving glass single-serving cups of drip (or “pour over” as pour-over filter system that, though it it’s commonly known) coffee with a degree requires a deft touch, produces a cup of control that rivals the near-algebraic that’s clean, transparent and completely variable complexity of espresso. free of sediment. “It was really the Clover that did that,” Some of the most unique and innovative Rinaldi says referring to the Clover S1, a brewing methods can be found at James supremely high-tech brewing machine she Freeman’s Blue Bottle Coffee Roasters’ once featured in her cafe that provided locations. Freeman started brewing coffee in digitally precise control over every essential 2002 at a farmers’ market stand across the step of the brewing process with computer San Francisco Bay Bridge in Oakland, and controlled temperature, brewing time and has since expanded his business to include water ratio. This produced a cup of coffee multiple shops in the Bay Area and beyond. that’s like a high-tech Americano, albeit with In 2012, and again in 2014, he received the tangible body of a French press brew. rounds of venture capital funding that in However, the Clover company was bought total amounted to US$40 million. This has by Starbucks and repairs to the machine helped him expand outside of San Francisco proved too costly for continued use. “We to locales including New York, Los Angeles don’t have ours any more,” Rinaldi says, “but and even Tokyo. Between the US and Japan, I think that machine really opened a lot of there are now a total of 38 stores. people up to what brewed coffee could be, Though Blue Bottle’s location in six and that brought us to where we are now.” Tokyo branches might seem unusual at So now a new potential for what first, a cursory glance at the equipment brewed coffee could be was revealed, on use in San Francisco reveals an and it could be every bit as controlled obvious love for Japanese gear like and carefully made as a masterfully pulled the aforementioned Hario V.60 pour shot of espresso. In the Clover’s wake, over dripper, which has since become San Francisco roasters began looking ubiquitous. “I have this friend in Japan to other novel forms of brewing that, named Jay Igami,” Freeman says. “When I though less high-tech, employed a similar first went over there in 2007, he took me variable-controlled mentality. This included to all these old-fashioned coffee houses in 2007; Jay worked at this Japanese coffee everything from the classic – like the and I was knocked out by the preparation company and he could get me all this gear.” Fittingly, the Blue Bottle location at 66 Mint Plaza looks more like a tHERE, BENEAtH WALLS CLAD IN minimalist 1960s science laboratory than a tAXIDERMY, VINtAGE AUDIO EQUIPMENt conventional coffee shop, with high ceilings, AND SMALL BROWN BAGS OF BEANS, white walls and very little else in the way of decoration. Instead, the focus is on the YOU CAN CHOOSE tO ENJOY tHE coffee preparation itself, which features RELAXING AND INFORMAtIVE EXPERIENCE baristas tending to a few other notable OF FOUR BARREL’S SLOW BAR contraptions imported from Japan. The first is a US$20,000 Lucky Cremas Bonmac 105 Siphon bar that uses precisely controlled Chemex, a design piece from the 1940s and dedication and all the tastes and halogen lamps to heat and create a recognised by the Museum of Modern textures. How I started was putting hot vacuum within glass baubles that results Art that looks like a broken hourglass water in a steaming pitcher and here was in a complicated cup of coffee whose and creates a delicate, tea-like coffee – to Jay talking about measuring grams of coffee flavours – which, depending on the beans the unusual – the Aeropress, a sort of and putting it in proportion to grams of used, can be anything from citrus fruit to French-press-in-reverse made by Aerobie, water. It blew my mind at the time, but Graham cracker – unfold as the beverage a company more popularly known for now that’s just how people talk about cools. “It’s expensive and impractical, but its Frisbees – to the foreign – the Hario coffee. We started using V.60s and kettles I like expensive and impractical,” says

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The Slow Bar iS for people who wanT To aSk queSTionS and juST nerd ouT aBouT coffee – i love iT

– jereMY Tooker, co-owner, four Barrel

Freeman. Similarly impractical, though perhaps less expensive, is a Japanese cold- brew iced coffee dripper that takes up to 12 hours to make a batch of Blue Bottle’s signature Kyoto Iced Coffee. It runs water, drip by drip, through a network of five glass globes and a filter to create an earthy and almost smoky concoction with a dense body and a tough caffeinated kick. If that doesn’t scream accessible, then Freeman also offers another iced beverage at his cafes. One of Blue Bottle’s signature drinks is its New Orleans Iced Coffee, an interpretation of a Louisiana classic that mixes its cold-brewed coffee with spicy chicory and sweetened milk. This beverage, popular since its inception, represents Freeman’s attempt to bring his coffee to an even wider audience – he’s used his funding to create and sell a mass marketable, milk carton-encased version of the drink. “It’s not a connoisseurs drink,” he says. “But it gives people a step up. If people never want to drink anything else for the rest of their lives, that’s fine, but maybe with this they’ll be curious. It’s something with a real Napoleonic

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OS80_056-063 SanFrancisco Rev1.indd 61 9/20/17 7:00 PM Emirates operates a daily service to San Francisco with the Airbus A380.

YOU WON’T FIND ANY AUTOMATIC COFFEE MACHINE, PERCOLATOR, OR BULK-BATCH CONTRAPTION HIDDEN BEHIND THE COUNTER. HERE THEY FOCUS ON CRAFT

backlash. After all, the coffee we’re discussing here doesn’t come cheap: a cup of pour over can run between US$4 and US$6, beans between US$14 and US$22, and some of the more extravagant brewing methods can get dizzyingly expensive for a beverage that can otherwise be acquired for quite cheap. You might even be tempted to say, “What’s the big deal? It’s just coffee,” historical imperative – they used to it’s about innovative service and providing but James Freeman of Blue Bottle sees ration coffee with chicory – that’s also the customer with something special if it differently. “What kind of olive oil personalised and delicious, and it seems they want it and really being a hub for was in people’s cabinets 20 years ago? people mostly agree.” the local community,” says Tooker. There What kind of olive oil is in people’s And while all this is high-tech and beneath walls clad in taxidermy, vintage cabinets now? It’s much better, it tastes flavourful, another area of innovation audio equipment and small brown bags better and it’s a little more expensive,” comes in the form of the coffee shop of beans, you can choose to enjoy the he says. “People know where the farm experience itself. San Francisco’s third relaxing and informative experience of is, they know whether it’s extra virgin, wave coffee shops might attract a tech- Four Barrel’s ‘Slow Bar’, which lets patrons but it tastes better and people don’t savvy crowd, but almost all uniformly do choose from a selection of coffees – a go back. People can tell the difference not provide free Wi-Fi, or Wi-Fi at all. In Guatemalan Chuito or Ethiopia Bulga, between something that’s delicious and this way they create a kind of public oasis perhaps? – and preparation methods something that’s not. They can even tell and counterfoil to the extremely busy and along with an informative conversation the difference between an olive oil from connected life of today’s San Franciscans. about the process and coffee in general Greece and one from Petaluma and Nowhere is this more felt than at Four with a barista. “It’s a learning experience you don’t have anyone shaming anyone Barrel on 375 Valencia Street. Always for the barista, too. The Slow Bar is for saying, ‘C’mon, it’s just olive oil!’” bustling with conversations, co-owner people who want to ask questions and And with that mentality, who knows? Jeremy Tooker went to great pains to just nerd out about coffee. I love it.” You might begin to see cues from San create a space that’s not sterile, quiet and Naturally, with such a leap forward, Francisco’s third wave of coffee at a cafe dominated by the glare of laptops. “For us, there’s bound to be something of a near you.

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K richards bay.pdf 1 9/20/17 1:46 PM

CMY

K Essential news and information from Emirates

Emirates retains The FA Cup 67

Inside Emirates Route Map 70 82 BRIEFING

OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 65 9/20/17 6:45 PM Tournament Sponsor In Association With #RUNWILD Principal Partner Global Partner Ofﬁcial Timekeeper EmiratE s nE ws

FOURTH DAILY FLIGHT TO SYDNEY Emirates is to introduce a fourth daily service from Dubai to Sydney in March next year, complementing its existing three daily A380 services and improving connections globally. The new service will be operated by Emirates’ iconic A380 aircraft and will increase passenger capacity on the route by 6,846 seats a week, representing a 7.3 per cent increase in capacity for Emirates’ Australian services. It will also provide passengers travelling from Europe and complementing Qantas’ re-routing of cities the following morning. It also and North Africa with greater connectivity its current Sydney to London service via introduces a new option for passengers to Australia. Singapore (instead of Dubai). to depart London and main European The additional flight builds on Emirates’ The new service will offer passengers cities in the morning with an afternoon partnership with Qantas, meeting an afternoon departure from Sydney and arrival in Sydney the next day with a short continued demand for services to Dubai a convenient arrival in main European connection in Dubai. EMIRATES RETAINS THE FA CUP Emirates and The Football Association have reached a deal to extend sponsorship of The Emirates FA Cup until 2021. The new three-year contract lengthens the already successful partnership that began in 2015, when the airline became the title partner of the FA Cup, the football world’s most prestigious domestic cup competition. The partnership between Emirates and the FA’s flagship tournament has helped widen the reach to fans around the world. Just ahead of the semi-finals in April of last year, the airline unveiled aircraft has made its way to the extensive tournament began on Friday August 4 and an exclusive Emirates FA Cup-branded Emirates A380 network, allowing fans saw 737 teams entering the competition A380, with the logo of the iconic cup from around the world to connect with and 185 extra-preliminary games taking adorning both sides of the double-decked the competition in a unique way. place across the country. The final will be aircraft. The Emirates FA Cup-branded The 2017/18 Emirates FA Cup at Wembley Stadium on May 19.

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before completing the transatlantic sector NEW AIRCRAFT FOR EMIRATES at Wick in Scotland. Once in Europe, the aircraft made FLIGHT TRAINING ACADEMY their way from Scotland to Sywell in Northamptonshire, England, and from there Emirates’ state-of-the-art Flight Training the fuel tanks and range, the journey on to Venice, Crete, Aqaba, Bahrain and finally Academy has taken delivery of two Cirrus from Cirrus’ manufacturing facilities in to Dubai. All the flights were operated in SR22 G6 training aircraft in Dubai. the US to Dubai had to be split into daylight and the two aircraft flew in loose The first of 22 single-piston engine multiple segments. formation throughout the entire journey, Cirrus aircraft, ordered by the Academy The two Cirrus planes’ 11-stop allowing for easier air traffic clearances. to train pilots ab initio, landed in Dubai transatlantic journey transited through Scheduled to open in November 2017, following a transatlantic journey spanning 10 countries, flying an average of more The Emirates Flight Training Academy, located more than 13,000 kilometres. than five hours a day. The journey across near Dubai World Central airport in Dubai Given the size of the aircraft and the Atlantic consisted of hopping from the South, is set to be one of the most advanced other restrictions, including the size of US to Canada, Greenland and Iceland, pilot training facilities in the world. RYDER CUP BOOST FOR EMIRATES An extended partnership agreement World Tour Championship in Dubai. with the European Tour will see Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates Emirates become an Official Partner of Airline, said: “We’re pleased to announce The 2018 Ryder Cup. our continued partnership with the The airline and the European Tour European Tour. Golf is one of the world’s have renewed their existing agreement most popular sports and Emirates proudly for four years until 2021, with the 48th links golfers and fans alike to top golfing edition of The Ryder Cup scheduled to events and destinations. be held at Le Golf National in France in “As the Official Partner of The 2018 September next year. Ryder Cup in France next year, we look The agreement renewal means that forward to further strengthening our Emirates will continue to be a sponsor for relationship with the European Tour as the existing nine European Tour events, well as engaging with millions of golf fans which culminate with the prestigious DP around the world.’’

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K inside emirates

EmiratEs WhEEls Looking to take your car abroad? Here’s how Emirates’ door-to-door service will transport your motor around the world in 10 simple steps

1 2 3 4

Our team receives Time to answer a few Agree a tentative date that Make a reservation your enquiry questions about your car you would like to transport to determine if it can travel your car – and the return on a passenger aircraft or journey if necessary if it will need to fly on a freighter aircraft

6 7 8

Provide Power of Attorney Your vehicle is picked up and taken to the Your vehicle is loaded to authorise transportation. airport where it will go through a series onto the aircraft with the All documents and permits of checks in accordance with international utmost care including third-party road regulations for air transportation of cars insurance will now be organised on your behalf

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 70 9/20/17 6:46 PM InsI de e m I rates Behind the wheels 120-150 The number of vehicles transported by Emirates Wheels each month 5 EmiratEs WhEEls sElEct A premium all-inclusive door-to-door car transportation service where Emirates obtains all relevant permits and documentation, including third-party road insurance, saving the customer the hassle

Us$40m The estimated value of the most expensive car ever transported by Emirates Wheels: Emirates Wheels’ contracted service a classic 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO provider meets you on behalf of Emirates to confirm the reservation and for a physical inspection of the car Us$12,000 The average starting price for cars on the door-to-door service, including all paperwork and permits 9 10 OnE WEEk The average time it takes, from processing a request to transporting a car

POPUlar dEstinatiOns Your vehicle arrives at the Finally, your car is delivered Our main countries are England, Germany, destination airport and to your specified address South of France, Italy and Switzerland goes through customs and you’re ready to go. clearance Happy driving! Gcc The vast majority of cars start their

journey here, particularly in the UAE For more details on Emirates Wheels visit skycargo.com

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 71 9/20/17 6:46 PM Destination

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 72 9/20/17 6:46 PM DESTINATION

CAIRO

From October 29, Emirates will operate four additional weekly flights to Cairo. Enjoy our guide to one of the most extraordinary cities in the world Cairo is immense. Its grey, grubby, shambolic enormity can trigger Egyptians call Cairo ‘Umm Ad-Dunya’, the Mother of the sensory overload for the uninitiated, such is the sheer scale of this World. Its mosques, grand avenues and 19th-century palaces extraordinary city on the banks of the Nile. will delight, but there is a caveat. Greater Cairo’s population was One of the few cities in the world that genuinely never estimated at 22.9 million in July last year, with the city to grow sleeps, Cairo remains a unique experience by any cultural, historic by a further 500,000 this year, more than any other city in the or artistic measure. world. The end result is strained infrastructure, free-for-all traffic, From the pyramids of Giza and the Egyptian Museum, to Khan pollution and trash. El-Khalili, the city’s main bazaar, the city has an embarrassment Yet Cairo is an experience unlike any other. Take a felucca ride of riches. Old Cairo alone is home to the Babylon Fortress, the along the Nile, listen to live music at the Cairo Jazz Club, eat the Hanging Church and the ruins of Roman fortifications, not to world’s best burgers at Lucille’s, and tuck into some koshary, a mention the impressive Mosque of Ibn Tulun and the Mosque of traditional dish of macaroni, lentils and rice topped with a spiced Amr Ibn Al-As, the earliest Islamic building in Egypt. tomato sauce. This is a city that will remain long in the memory. EAT STAY DO

ABOU TAREK VILLA BELLE ÉPOQUE THE PYRAMIDS If you’re after koshary, widely considered Touted as Egypt’s first boutique hotel, Villa What would a trip to Cairo be Egypt’s national dish, then there’s really only Belle Époque serves one of the city’s best without visiting the Giza pyramid complex? one place to go. Abou Tarek has been so breakfasts and is located in Maadi, one of Over the years Cairo has encroached on successful over the years that it has gradually Cairo’s most lushly landscaped quarters. the site, but the Great Pyramid of Giza, one taken over the upper floors of its home in A refurbished 1920s colonial building, of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient El-Shaikh Marouf, not far from the Egyptian it includes a swimming pool and patios World and the tallest man-made structure Museum. Order in and enjoy the atmosphere. flanked by lemon, mango and olive trees. for more than 3,000 years, remains as +20 122 757 5555 villabelleepoque.com remarkable as ever.

FASAHET SOUMEYA MENA HOUSE HOTEL EGYPTIAN MUSEUM Sandwiched between electronics shops If it’s a view you’re after then you really Situated in Tahrir Square, the Egyptian in an alley off Youssef El Guindy Street, can’t go wrong with this former hunting Museum contains the world’s most extensive this is homemade Egyptian food at its lodge. Just 700 metres from the Great collection of pharaonic antiquities. Designed best. With only a handful of tables and Pyramid of Giza, this palatial hotel is in a neo-classical style by French architect singlehandedly run by Soumeya Hamdy, situated in 40 acres of gardens and has Marcel Dourgnon in 1896, it boasts 107 halls it serves hearty stews and comfort food. played host to everyone from Charlie and thousands of artefacts, the most notable Expect crispy roast duck with rosemary, lamb Chaplin to Ralph Lauren. of which are the golden treasures of boy shanks and stuffed vegetables. menahousehotel.com king Tutankhamun.

LUCILLE’S CAIRO MARRIOTT HOTEL SAIL ON THE NILE Ten years ago Time magazine claimed The central section of what is the If the crowds and the trafﬁc get just a Lucille’s served the ‘Best Hamburger in the largest hotel in Cairo was once the Gezirah little too much for you, then head out World’. It has been attempting to live up Palace, built for the Khedive Isma’il Pasha onto the Nile in a traditional wooden to that claim ever since. A humble American- in 1869. Situated in the Zamalek district of sailing boat called a felucca. Hired by the style diner situated in Maadi, it is still as Cairo, it has more than a thousand rooms, hour, you can take your own food and popular as ever, although as much for its many of which have unspoilt and panoramic drinks, listen to music, and cruise the Nile breakfasts as its delicious burgers. views of the Nile. at sunset. There are certainly worse ways +20 109 291 5000 marriott.com to see Cairo.

The four new flights will increase the number of frequencies between the two cities to three each day, and take the total number of weekly Emirates flights serving Cairo to 21.

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 73 9/20/17 6:46 PM COMFORT

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK TRAVEL WEAR USE SKIN KEEP MAKE SHARPS BOXES PLENTY OF LIGHTLY GLASSES MOISTURISER MOVING YOURSELF Sharps boxes are WATER Carry only the Cabin air is Apply a Exercise your COMFORTABLE available onboard Rehydrate with essential items drier than good quality lower legs and Loosen clothing, all Emirates flights water or juices that you will normal, moisturiser to calf muscles. remove jacket for safe disposal frequently. Drink need during therefore swap ensure your skin This encourages and avoid anything of medical tea and coffee your flight. your contact doesn’t dry out. blood flow. pressing against equipment. Please in moderation. lenses for glasses. your body. ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor Allow yourself plenty of time Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise before travelling if you for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep have any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy bags pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long journey through the airport and and descent. or if you suffer from a onto the ﬂight as this can Babies and young respiratory or cardiovascular place the body under passengers may suffer condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any vaccinations departures try and relax as providing a dummy. or special medications? much as possible. Get as comfortable as Get a good night’s rest possible when resting and before the ﬂight. turn frequently. Eat lightly and sensibly. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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CMY

K customs & visa information Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta

nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program.

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K customs & visa information Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow TheSe STePS:

1 2 3 4

have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting flight Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to ready for the ground staff as Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of your emirates staff at the transfer you exit. Arrivals hall. final destination. counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:

• you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock

The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 78 9/20/17 6:46 PM Open Skies 195x260mm (Emarati Man english).pdf 1 7/19/17 5:31 PM

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Focus on your priorities. Not ours.

A Valiant Life is a philosophy.

It’s about taking control and making the most of every minute. Our preventive health services help you work towards a better you. We want to see you out enjoying life with no time wasted. From Cardiology to Gastroenterology to Pulmunology, Health Check-ups and more, Valiant Clinic provides advanced preventive healthcare to ensure you spend more time with loved ones, and less time with us.

For a consultation, call 800 VALIANT (8254268)* or visit valiantclinic.com The future of healthcare, today. Now open at CITY WALK.

*within UAE MOH#UK08153 UAE SMART GATE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE BE SMART! UAE SMART GATES USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI UAE INTERNATIONAL A A A AIRPORT B B B GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START

Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed C D F through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. F G G Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY I I I

J K L Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate 1 card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned L M M

N N Z N Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the 2 card slot O P Q

OK! Go through the open gate, stand in the blue S M S A S footprint guide on the ﬂoor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When ﬁnished, the next set of gates will open

3 and you can continue to baggage claim S K S S

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having S *UK USA your details validated by an immigration ofﬁcer. That’s it! Every time you ﬂy to *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa) Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed. UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT • Machine-readable passports from Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB the above countries – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without • E-Gate cards paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and • Emirates ID cards Departures across all three terminals at DXB.

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 80 9/20/17 6:46 PM DUBAI: Dubai Mall • The Gold Centre • Gold & Diamond Park Ibn Battuta Mall • Al Ghurair Centre • Lamcy Plaza • Dubai Outlet Mall ABU DHABI: Abu Dhabi Mall • Marina Mall • Dalma Mall • Mushrif Mall Al Wahda Mall • Deerfields Town Square • Bawabat Al Sharq SHARJAH: Sahara Centre • Mega Mall AL AIN • Al Ain Mall • Al Jimi Mall Bawadi Mall • Barari Outlet Mall RAS AL KHAIMAH: RAK Mall FUJAIRAH: Century Mall BAHRAIN • Seef Mall • Seef Mall Muharraq • Ramli Mall • Enma Mall • Bahrain Mall ROUTE MAP

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 82 9/20/17 6:46 PM ROUTE MAP

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 83 9/20/17 6:46 PM ROUTE MAP *SUSPENDED

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 84 9/20/17 6:46 PM INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP

MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.

A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae ROUTE MAP

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 86 9/20/17 6:46 PM emirates advocates.pdf 1 12/21/16 6:31 PM

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS C REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS M MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE Y DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS CM LEGAL TRANSLATION MY DEBT COLLECTION CY TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION CMY PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT K

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI JABEL ALI TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 [email protected] [email protected] SHARJAH INTERNET CITY TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 [email protected] [email protected] RAS AL KHAIMAH TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 [email protected]

Our ﬂeet of 266 aircraft includes 252 EMIRATES FLEET passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800

2500+

20%

All Emirates A380 aircraft are ﬁtted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. A total of 20 (20 per cent) of the A380s are now equipped with Live 99 in ﬂeet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m Television, with more coming soon.

BOEING 777-300ER

up to 2500+

81%

111 (81 per cent) of Emirates Boeing 777- 300ERs are equipped with Live Television, 137 in ﬂeet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.

BOEING 777-200LR

2500+

10 in ﬂeet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F

The most environmentally friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo 13 in ﬂeet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 88 9/20/17 6:46 PM FLEET

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

Live Television Wi-Fi Mobile Phone Data Roaming Channels of in-ﬂight GSM GPRS entertainment

BOEING 777-300

1500+

5 in ﬂeet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319

550+

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our 1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 747 ERF

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deckside cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger 1 in ﬂeet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

For more information: emirates.com/ourﬂeet Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

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OS80_065-089 Briefing.indd 89 9/20/17 6:46 PM street knowledge the Guide The NBA season kicks off this month, so we asked the legendary LeBron James to show us around Cleveland

The firsT Thing pepperoni. Trust me, you are if you’re looking basketball, head for Patterson you should do in not going to regret this. for a family day ouT Park and get a little game Cleveland? Maybe not everybody knows going. It’s near to where I Make sure you get yourself if you wanT a big we’re the home to The grew up, and people have some tickets for The Cavaliers. nighT ouT Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, so invested a lot of money in the I would always start at XO that’s a very cool place to go courts down there in the last There’s one plaCe you Prime Steaks, which, for me are and check out. I like a lot of couple of years. have To eaT the best steaks in Cleveland. music, but I especially enjoy It’s not like I am going to eat They also have a pretty hip-hop. It’s so important you won’T read This in it every day – but at the same amazing cocktail menu, too. If that artists like N.W.A – The TourisT guides time I still allow myself to eat you aren’t ready to go home who were inducted to the Cleveland isn’t trying to the food that I want to eat in after dinner, you’re in the right hall of fame last year – are pretend it’s something it’s not; moderation – and when I do part of town to keep on going. recognised because they it’s not New York, it’s not LA, it is always Blaze Pizza. You will were so much more than but it’s a city full of heart, soul not believe how good their The besT way To artists; they gave hope that and good people. It’s more pizza is until you taste it. I can reCuperaTe? people in those areas could than downtown Cleveland,

eat a large one in five minutes Go for a run in Edgewater have a better life. it’s got a load of great o N : rou I fr ANCI s C flat – they taste that good. If Park. It’s beautiful along the neighbourhoods and areas – you want a ‘LeBron Special’ water, the fresh air will do you if you’d like To geT a and you should go and check ask them to make you a pizza good, and you get amazing sweaT on out as many as you can while with basil, red peppers and views of the city. Why don’t you grab a you’re there.

ice TV live, available on most aircraft, airs live news and sport channels including the NBA season starting from october 18. Look for the sport 24 channel. words: EMMA C o ILE r ; I LL us T ATI

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OS80_090 Guide.indd 90 9/20/17 5:24 PM 4:51 PM The moment she made you float into a fairytale.

At Fairmont, we believe in making moments. We believe that every exquisite luxury, every lavish setting, and every unforgettable adventure you have with your loved ones at a Fairmont hotel… is a memory worth cherishing. That’s why we’ve spent more than 100 years perfecting the art of making moments. Are you ready to find yours?

Gateway to your moment in over 20 countries. fairmont.com

FC031_OSM_260x195.indd 1 9/18/17 11:49 AM Alchemy final.pdf 1 9/20/17 4:08 PM

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