NICOLA FORMICHETII BIOGRAPHY FASHION DESIGNER (costumes) Authors name, year, title (assess date)

Nicola Formichetti was born on May 31, 1977 in Japan. His unique • Biography, 2010, Nicola Farmichetti {online access date: 2/2/2013j style was said to be a result of his upbringing for example his http://ladygaga.wikia.com/wiki/ Nicola Formichetti multiculturalism with his father being Italian and his Mother being • http://www.cimuk.com/styling/nicola-formichettilbio Japanese, modern and traditional. As a fashion designer he is h predominantly known as 's designer although his career • Howard, September i 2011, Nicola Fomichetti biography of an extraordinary creative talent, began before working with her. {online access date: 2/2/2013j http://www.weareyourstudio.com/nicola-formichetti/ At age 21 Nicola moved to to study architecture and music but wasn't that enthusiastic in • Clare, 201O,fashion focus : Nicola Formichetti, (online access date: 2/2/2013 this line of work, as he often spent nights out and looking at street fashion. It was in London when http://stylebible.ie/Fashion/FeaturesFashion%20Focus:%20Nicola%20Formichetti.htm he began work at a boutique called "The Pineal Eye" where many other designers also began . • Showstudio, 7-8-2012, Nicola Formichetti - stylist & Fasion director, Vogue Hommes Japan His first major job began in London when he met the fashion directors of the magazine"Dazed and http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f71/nicola-formichetti-stylist-fashion-director-vogue­ Confused". They offered him a monthly page called "eye spy" for the magazine where he could hommes-japan-56064.html express the things he like E.G. writing, styling and photography. From this job onwards he was • Paul Flynn, Thursday 3 June 2004, why I love ...... The Pineal Eye, (online access date: creative director for other magazines like; V, Another magazine, Arena Homme and more. As he developed he eventua lly became one of the most notable creative directors in the fashion industry. 2/2/2013) http://www .guardian.co.uk/iifeandstyle/2004/jun/03/fashion.shopping His career really took off when he became the designer for Lady Gaga. He met her in 2009 at "The Beauty Issue of V shot by Sebastian Faena". While he was working with Lady Gaga he was often accompanied by two assistants; Anna Trevelyan and Brandon Ma)(well. A big step for him was when he used his name to secure clothes for Gaga, which many designers are re luctant to do. He had his first ever collaboration with Lady Gaga at the "Much Music Video Awards" in 2009. He became part of the "Haus of Gaga" and was one out of three most well known members.

September 2010 he was announced to be the new creative director of the "Thietty Mugler brand" now know and just "Mugler"ln a ten year period between 2001 to 2011 Nicola worked with many fashion houses and brands. He was the soon to release his own fashion line and a pop- up boutique in Manhatten's District.

Nicola Formichetti finds his inspiration from many places and people. The main way he finds his inspiration is by travel ling and visiting new places. People that inspire him are his friends, other designers, photographer and posts from people on and Tumblr. He also fi nds inspiration in his huge toy collection. I_ ~·..· -- ---· An e)(ample of his inspiration from Facebook when he created "muse" in his "mugler range" he got the idea for "Rico the .-----. zombie boy". He had the skeleton tattooed allover his body as it [image removed to would be on th e inside. I protect copyright] I really like the work of this designer as it shows creativity and he L :... i.~ • .,... '" is constantly taking risks on all of his design with make it interesting. I find that he unique designs are all appropriate and well thought out for the role of act it was designed for in particular costumes he designed for Lady Gaga' s songs and videos.

Amber Stockley, 1234

Word count: 498

Page 3 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 AKIRA ISOGAWA • 2012, biogrophy, [online access date 3/2/13J BIOGRAPHY http://akira.com.aulprofile FASHION DESIGNER(costumes) • 1998 -2013,Akira 'sogawa, [online access date 3/2/13J http://www .fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/akira-isogawa/ Akira Isogawa was born in 1965 in Japan,Kyoto. He emigrated to • Vogue, 2013, Akiro 'sogowo designers, [online access date 3/2/13J Austra lia in 1986 when he was 21 years old. His first work in Australia http://www .vogue.com .au/people/designers/akira+isogawa.1 was a waiter and a tour guide in 1995, meanwhile he was studying and • December 24 2007 Monday, Akira 'sogawa Australian Fashion Designer Biography, [online graduating fashion school in Austra lia's east Sydney tech. Collage. access date 4/2/13J In 1995 he also set up a store in Woollahra in Sydney. He first realised http://fashion-designers-info.blogspot.com.auI2007 /12Iakira-isogawa-australian­ his work was getting recognition when he spotted Naomi Campell fashion.html wearing one of his dresses on the front cover of a magazine. By the late 1990's his reputation had built up and he was quite well known by other designers. 1996 was a big break for him as her showed his first ever collection which he got great responses from, in particular Joan Burstein. Joan Burstein was from 'BROWNS' who are famous for discovering many successful designers. The company like his work so much they bought the whole collection.

By 1997 to 1999 his second collection was being reviled. It was a spring/ summer range called 'Satori collection' meaning sudden enlightenment. This collection had favourable reviews from many sources of the media for example 'New York Times' . A new collection was released in 1998, it was a spring/ summer range called' Botanica collection. This was his first private showing in Paris.

1998 he took his career to a new level by collaborating with the Sydney dance company. 1999 was a high in his career as he won the designer of the year award from the Australian Fashion Industry Award s.in 2005 he became so well know that he was awarded by the Austra lian post, he was named an Australian ledgend and his face was put on a stamp.

His brands are now found all over the world and are retailed in fourteen countries. He has two boutiques in Sydney, one in Melbourne and one in Brisbane

He has now also worked with the Australian ballet in September 2011 designing costumes for Graeme Murphy productions.

Hes designs often strongly resemble his Japanese heritage and different places as when he is travelling he gets inspired by the different types of fashions and styles

I really like this designer as it shows unique designs that are effective yet still appropriate for the role or envi ronment that they will be seen and or displayed in . For example the costumes for Australian Ballet ;Romeo [image removed to protect and Juliet' shows soft yet striking designs that suit the copyright] story line well.

Amber Stockley, 1234

Word count: 405

Page 4 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 Design Analysis

Harlequin:

• Bright colours stand out (red, white and black) • The simple diamond design on the front is sharp and effective but it also portrays the character well • It has no tricky fasteners which makes it easy for quick changes for the dances • Material: all is elasticized, stretchy leotard with a light floaty red skirt underneath that will bounce making movement look bigger • Lots of detail but still kept simple, for example the arm sleeves with the same pattern on the front adding uniqueness • This character was of high energy so the stretch materials made it easy to move. • For the other characters that share the stage this costume stood out as it was designed too as it was bright bouncy and glittery. • The contrast on the diamond pattern with the black and white are striking as they take up a large portion of the costume • Other harlequin costumes I have seen in my research I don't believe they are as successful as they have too much detail it is too distracting. • Minimal sequins and bead as a lot of partner work was required and you didn't want to get attached.

Orange Jazz Dress:

• Bright orange colour stands out on stage with lights • Sequins add sparkle that will look really effective with movement • Clear straps give the impression of a strapless dress but ensures it will stay up • It has a frilly skirt that looks effective with movement and turning in particular • This dress has no fasteners that can get caught or be a hindrance when trying to change with minimal time • As this was a jazz dance it was of high energy and movement so the stretch material it is made of causes no restrictions • The gathers at the side provide for extra movement extra detail in the dress and gives the body a good shape. • The length of this dress is a good length that it can't be knelt on in floor work • The head piece adds extra interest and also hold hair back

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Page 7 of 24 ! I I Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 AKIRA ISOGAWA - ANALYSIS

• This costume has the look of a traditional ballet tutu

• It has a lot of detail and patterns within the leotard with stitching, sequins and pleating

• Along with the tutu there is added accessories like the arm bands and the tiara/ crown both which are as detailed as the dress

[image removed to protect copyright] • The plain white of this dress would be effective on stage as the lights would reflect well off of it

• This costume is elegant yet gives the feeling of a strong emotional character with the refined detail

• This costume is well designed as it is simple but it has the detail to make it unique and special

• The arm band really make this special as it creates extra detail and makes the dress more elegant • In my opinion I believe that this costume could have been made a little more unique by adding colour rather than the expected plain white.

Page 8 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 Akira Isogawa - ANALYSIS

• Colour: black and gold

• Top a matalic black, strapless and half length

• Skirt (tutu) black, gold rim around edge, ripple texture and material has the appearance that it has been folded like a fan

• Skirt is made of a mesh like material that holds its shape well

[image removed to protect copyright] • This costume interests me as it is not the traditional ballet costume and it has a unique twist of have the stomach exposed and just the skirt.

• The costume was completed with black stockkings and black pointe shoes which is also another element that you wouldnt normally see.

• this costume is effective because of its dark colour and gives the impression of demanding and strong

• The bottom photo showes that this was for a strong character by the body language so i believe that this designer portrayed this well in the [image costume. removed to protect copyright] • 1m my opinion I believe that this cosume could include a bit more colour and some texture on the top half of the costume.

Page 9 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 NICOLA FORMICHETTI- ANALYSIS

• This dress worn by lady gaga shows a simple design made interesting.

• The base of this costume is a plain white/black dress

J T • Embellishments of diamond shapes covering in glitter have been attached in all shapes and sizes

[image removed to [image removed to protect copyright] protect copyright] • 3D attachments add depth

• The headpiece in this design match the dress making them go well together

• The black and gold dress stands out really well as they are to very different colour which also makes the embellishments

• The white dress having matching embellishments is not as stand out but has a different look that is more subtle but still the same concept.

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Page 15 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 I have replicated my design of a tiara by using bendable wire so that I could see the shape in 3D form. I also wanted to see how this metal material would work with multiple angles. I have now come to realise that if I were to use this I would need a neater form of joining that is more appropriate.

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Page 17 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 Although Isogawa's most recognised work is the dresses and costuming that he did for the Australian Ballet he also has a wide variety of clothing designs. His clothing designs are both street wear and photo shoot clothing. His clothing designs are both street wear and photo shoot clothing.

After looking into his clothing his background of Japan really showed through in his designs, for example the basic shape of a kimono is shown but often with a modern western influences patterned material. In saying this it is also shown in the reverse with western styles and Japanese influenced patterns.

His designs consist of bright colours, simple but effective shapes corresponding, unusual creativity, elegance in a creative way and his culture shines through in majority of his designs whether it is the material pattern or shape.

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Page 19 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 Nichola Formichetti is a well known designer due to his out there designs for famous singer Lady Gaga. I find that his designs reflect the personality of either the person of the performance that they are showing well. A prime example of this is Lady Gagas unusual loud character is reflected through big elaborate designs. Although Lady Gaga is the main person he designs for he also has collections for example the most known 'Mugler' and also for other performers like Beyonce.

After looking at and analysing some of his designs I have come to notice that he pushes the boundaries and many of his designs are socially questionable. His costumes and clothing lines challenge people's expectation and ideas of what is socially normal! expectable. I have noticed that with many of his designs he takes something quite regular and modifies it to be unique and signature to his design style.

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Page 21 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 EVALUATION

For my visual study I chose to do costume design initially as I dance and I find the different variety of costumes interesting. I wanted to look further into them and have a go at showing off my knowledge. I thought that as I have visualised, worn and helped make many costumes previously that looking deeper into it would help in the future. I find that the costume makes the performance whether it is dance, music or drama the costume will always bring the performance value to a higher level. I also love how material can respond to movement from the body. A designer that has always intrigued me was Nichola Formichetti as I like Lady Gaga who he designs for and find the costume quiet unique.

To reach the end of my visual study there where many different things I did to progress and develop my ideas. Initially I researched two different designers, looked at their work and learnt from the techniques that they used. I then analysed their working particular ones that I found interesting related to costuming. I put further research into the costumes that I recognised as something I could relate to the style of design I want to do. I replicated key features of the designs so that I could get a better idea ofthe structure. From what I had learnt I appropriated and created my own ideas incorporating different techniques.

I put further research into my designers so I could analyse and draw more ideas from them for my own designs using influences from the designers.

I have explored in different designers designs and taken their concepts and tried to incorporate them into my own designs, for example in my appropriation dress two I was inspired by Nichola Formichetti's work as I took a simple shaped dress, added a few details and then enlarged them. Nichola Formichetti is known for his big and bold outfits. In dress one I have incorporated Akira Isogawa's work as I got the idea of a long flowing skirt that would react well with movement from a dress he designed for the Australian Ballet. \

With my three appropriations I have thought about style and I believe that each one demonstrates something unique of its own. My first one shows elegance and smoothness, my second shows simplicity but a unique twist with oversized aspects and my third shows layers and different contrasts of colours with a royal sort of feel to it.

For performance materials is a big thing as there is a lot to be considered such as; functionality lighting, fixtures and movement with the body.

These two designers show the similarity of designing for performance preposes, one being for a ballet and one for a singer which relates to my topic. They do also have collections and clothing wear though. I believe that researching into different designer's works was really helpful for me as I learnt new techniques and it helped spur on ideas for me. Throughout doing my visual studies I learnt many things but one main thing I did learn was not to be ·afraid to push the boundaries. I also learnt that sometimes with designing less is more but that can be amped up but getting creative from a simple base.

Word count: 547

Page 22 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 VISUAL ARTS - ART I DESIGN

Assessment Type 3: Visual Study

Student SACE No:

Assessment Design Detail of Evidence Assessment Design Criteria - Specific Features Criteria Some elements of conceptualisation evident of designers with attempts to P Conceptualisation, development, and resolution of resolve ideas related to the study. A imaginative or personally relevant visual ideas. Limited evidence of media 1 Practical experimentation. Application Disjointed documentation, little P Documentation of creative visual thinking and/or problem- reference to compositional elements A solving processes. or style. 3

A Some simplistic interpretations of Critical analysiS and interpretation of works of art or design design works. Superficial reference S from different contexts. to context and visual evidence. 1

Analysis Restricted use otvisual arts and language with attempted reference A Use of visual arts language to interpret, respond to, and Synthesis to descriptions, issues and question S synthesise thoughts on visual arts, including issues and/or related to the topic. . 2 questions.

Limited evidence of personal learning. A S Evaluation of, and conclusions about, visual arts learning. 4

Basic research skills to provide Use of research skills and understanding of inquiry methods insights into visual arts. Some I to locate and acknowledge sources, explore, experiment, Inquiry and attempt at acknowledgement. E and develop insights into aspects of the visual arts. Exploration 1 Superficial recognition of the role of visual arts in the personal development of ideas. Limited I Exploration and self-analysis in development of a personal personal experimentation. E aesthetic through the visual arts. 2

GRADE Word Count Approx. 2000 D 10

Page 23 of 24 Stage 2 Visual Arts - Art; Student Response Ref: A560308 (August 2016) © SACE Board of South Australia 2016 Performance Standards for Stage 2 Visual Arts – Grade D 10

Practical Application Knowledge and Understanding Analysis and Synthesis Inquiry and Exploration

A Initiation of complex or challenging and well-planned In-depth knowledge of selected visual arts Highly perceptive critical analysis and Productive and thorough use of research skills and a conceptualisation, development, and resolution of concepts, forms, styles, and conventions, and a interpretation of a variety of works of art or clear understanding of inquiry methods to locate and innovative, imaginative, or personally relevant visual clear understanding of their practical application. design from different contexts. appropriately acknowledge sources, explore, ideas. experiment, and develop perceptive and clear In-depth knowledge and understanding of visual Extensive and sophisticated use of visual arts insights into a range of aspects of the visual arts. Comprehensive exploration to refine technical skills arts in different cultural, social, and/or historical language to interpret, respond to, and and use different media, materials, and contexts. synthesise thoughts on visual arts, including Astute exploration and self-analysis in development technologies. issues and/or questions. of a personal aesthetic through the visual arts. Insightful and discerning understanding of aesthetic Insightful and thorough documentation of creative and/or functional qualities in a variety of works of Discerning evaluation of own work and visual thinking and problem-solving processes. art or design. connections or comparisons with other practitioners’ work. Highly effective application of refined technical skills and sensitive use of media, materials, technologies, Insightful evaluation of, and conclusions about, and processes to communicate visual ideas in a visual arts learning. work or works of art or design. B Thoughtful and well-planned conceptualisation, Some depth of knowledge of selected visual arts Well-informed and well-considered critical Systematic use of research skills and a sound development, and resolution of imaginative or concepts, forms, styles, and conventions, and a analysis and interpretation of several works of understanding of inquiry methods to locate and personally relevant visual ideas. sound understanding of their practical application. art or design from different contexts. appropriately acknowledge sources, explore, experiment and develop mostly clear insights into Thorough exploration to refine technical skills and Some depth of knowledge and understanding of Proficient use of visual arts language to different aspects of the visual arts. use media, materials, and technologies. visual arts in different cultural, social, and/or interpret, respond to, and synthesise thoughts historical contexts. on visual arts, including issues and questions. Thoughtful exploration and self-analysis in Thoughtful and organised documentation of creative development of a personal aesthetic through the visual thinking and/or problem-solving processes. Clear understanding of aesthetic and/or functional Thoughtful evaluation of own work, and visual arts. qualities in several different works of art or design. connections or comparisons with other Effective application of some refined technical skills practitioners’ work. and some sensitive use of media, materials, technologies, and processes to communicate visual Thoughtful and well-explained evaluation of, ideas in a work or works of art or design. and conclusions about, visual arts learning. C Considered conceptualisation, development, and Appropriate knowledge of selected visual arts Informed and considered critical analysis and Competent use of research skills and considered resolution of imaginative or personally relevant concepts, forms, styles, and conventions, and interpretation of two or more works of art or understanding of inquiry methods to locate and visual ideas. some understanding of their practical application. design from different contexts. appropriately acknowledge sources, explore, experiment, and develop some insights into different Competent exploration to refine technical skills and Considered knowledge and understanding of visual Competent use of visual arts language to aspects of the visual arts. use media, materials, and technologies. arts in different cultural, social, and/or historical interpret, respond to, and synthesise thoughts contexts. on visual arts, including issues and questions. Some considered exploration and self-analysis in Organised documentation of creative visual thinking development of a personal aesthetic through the and/or problem-solving processes. Appropriate understanding of aesthetic and/or Considered evaluation of own work and visual arts. functional qualities in different works of art or connections or comparisons with other Competent application of technical skills and design. practitioners’ work. elements of sensitivity in the use of media, materials, technologies, and processes to Competent and appropriate evaluation of, and communicate visual ideas in a work or works of art conclusions about, visual arts learning. or design. Practical Application Knowledge and Understanding Analysis and Synthesis Inquiry and Exploration

D Elements of conceptualisation and some Some basic knowledge of selected visual arts Some basic consideration and interpretation of Some use of basic research skills and awareness of development and resolution of visual ideas. concepts, forms, conventions, and styles, and an at least one work of art or design with superficial inquiry methods to locate one or more sources (with emerging understanding of their practical reference to their context. attempted acknowledgment), explore, and Some exploration of technical skills using media, application. experiment. materials, and technologies. Restricted use of visual arts language to Some reference to knowledge or understanding of interpret, respond to, and describe thoughts on Superficial recognition of the role of visual arts in Disjointed or partial documentation of creative visual visual arts in a cultural, social, or historical context. visual arts, including issues or questions. personal development. thinking and/or problem-solving processes. A superficial understanding of aesthetic or Some description of own and others works, with Partial application of technical skills and some use functional qualities in works of art or design. some tenuous connections or comparisons. of media, materials, technologies, or processes in developing a work of art or design. Some basic summary and description of visual arts learning, with elements of evaluation.

E Emerging skills in the conceptualisation, Limited knowledge or understanding of concepts, Emerging awareness of connections between at Attempted engagement in a directed research development, and resolution of visual ideas. forms, or styles in visual arts. least one work of art or design and the context. process. Attempted exploration of technical skills using Emerging awareness of different visual arts Limited use of visual arts language for Emerging awareness of the role of visual arts in media, materials, or technologies. contexts. interpretation or response in the visual arts. personal development. Limited documentation of creative visual thinking or Some awareness of the need to understand Attempted description of own and others’ work. problem-solving processes. aesthetic or functional qualities in works of art or design. Attempted description of aspects of visual arts Attempted application of technical skills to develop a learning. work of art or design.