3 / 2014

e world’s oldest banking magazine – since .

On the Move People, Ideas and Goods in Motion 100 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — Editorial —

2 1 3

4 Freedom of Movement Today e following contributed to this issue:

1 Julica Jungehülsing he whole world is on the move. Cars, trucks, bicycles, air- Originally from Kiel, Jungehülsing has lived planes, ships and trains are more numerous than ever be- in Sydney since 2001. Her reports from Aus- fore. Never has there been so much running, hiking, com- tralia, New Zealand and other countries of muting and traveling. Emigration and immigration are becoming the South PaciŽc have appeared in Stern, T increasingly common. Goods are being transported; capital is be- GEO, Die Zeit and SZ-Magazin. Junge- ing shifted from one place to another. e world is smaller today hülsing’s book “Ein Jahr in Australien” was published by Herder in 2007. In this issue of than it was in any previous generation – thanks to both physical Bulletin, she describes an idea that is typi- and virtual mobility. Ten years ago, ubiquitous high-speed inter- cally Australian – the concept of a “fair go”: net, low-cost telecommunications and the option of mobile avail- Practically nowhere else on earth are oppor- ability anytime, anywhere were not yet a reality. Today, life without tunities to advance in society as great as they them seems inconceivable. are Down Under. Page 28 his issue of Bulletin focuses on the freedom of movement 2 Tim Georgeson we enjoy today, looking at it from a wide variety of perspec- A photographer, Žlmmaker and creative di- tives and in diverse settings. We show how introducing rector, Georgeson contributed the photo- standardized containers has allowed global trade to ¨ourish – and graphs that accompany the report by Julica T we tell you where the next revolution in transportation is likely to Jungehülsing. Georgeson has worked in war occur (page 24). In a feature report, we visit Australia to learn why zones and photographed rock concerts. His social mobility there is greater than elsewhere – why people are photos have appeared in National Geo- able to move up in society more easily than in most other parts of graphic, the New Yorker, Newsweek and many other publications. His advertising the world (page 28). And we introduce Elon Musk, the Henry Ford campaigns for Heineken and the World of our time. Much like his countryman, who sold over 15 million Wildlife Fund (WWF) have been seen all Model T cars in the Žrst part of the 20th century, Musk is hoping over the world. Page 28 to win over the public with a new vehicle: a battery-powered car. e Tesla is currently available as a luxury sedan, with sales com- 3 Stean Heuer parable to those of similar Porsches or Audis, but more a«ordable Heuer is the US correspondent for the Ger- Tesla models will soon be on the market as well (page 56). man business magazine brandeins and co- author of the book “Fake It!: Your Guide to e present a set of infographics showing how the world Digital Self-Defense.” Here, he discusses has become more mobile (page 48). We go on vacation data protection, privacy issues and the useful (page 66), and we accompany two-time Pulitzer Prize (and unsettling) prevalence of electronic winner Paul Salopek on his seven-year (!) trek retracing the steps navigation. Page 40 W of the earliest modern humans as they ventured forth from Africa to populate the rest of the world (page 43). So much movement, 4 Ole Häntzschel A Berlin-based graphic designer, Häntzschel at such a rapid pace, is positively dizzying, as Heidi Bohl might specializes in presenting complex informa- put it. A 60-year-old restaurant owner from the Toggenburg re- tion in an interesting and readily under- gion in Switzerland, she has spent no more than a few days outside standable way. He works for international of Switzerland in her entire life. Has she missed anything? No, companies and media, and has won numer- she replies, “When you’re happy, there’s no need to go anywhere” ous awards. In this issue, he depicts a world (page 78). in motion: passengers, freight, communica- tion, tra¢c congestion, commuters and many other aspects of mobility. Page 48 Your Editorial Team

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 1 — On the Move —

PERSPECTIVES 2014

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CSbulletin_E_220x297_rechts.indd 1 25.07.14 11:36 Bulletin: On the Move

4 On the Move 43 Out of Africa 66 Where Does the Journey Lead? e interplay between modern Paul Salopek is traveling the Two vacation pros and their communication and physical world on foot for seven visions of a perfect holiday. movement. long years – from Ethiopia to Tierra del Fuego. 70 Frequent Flyers 6 Bicycle Planet He ¨ies 10,000 km without Bikes solve tra¢c problems 48 Better, Faster, Cheaper a break: the amazing swift. across the globe. Mobility and transportation in Žfteen graphics. 18 “Global trade helps us to under- stand the rest of the world” Interview with economist and Mail is becoming Obama advisor Laura Tyson. faster and faster: the parcel.

56 Working Hard to Save 72 e Journey Was eir Reward the World Great authors and the eternal Elon Musk brought us the theme of travel. Tesla. Now he wants to send people to Mars. 78 “I don’t need to go anywhere” Heidi Bohl has only ever left 60 Air Travel Is Getting Switzerland twice. “Why should (Even) Better I leave?” she asks. Suites, big beds, perfect 24 A Box on the Move entertainment: the future of 80 Wind and Ways How a steel box revolutionized air travel. Illustration by Jörn Kaspuhl. world trade. 64 “As long as it gets good 28 Where ere’s a Will, mileage” ere’s a Way Dreaming of the open road Few countries are as fair as from every child’s room with Australia: social mobility through Matchbox cars. hard work.

40 Measuring the World Modern navigation comes free Cover: with every smart phone – but at Data analyst Xu Di uses a bicycle station in a price. Hangzhou, China. Photo by Wenjie Yang.

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Photography: Dan Cermak; Ole Häntzschel; Mattel; Paul R. Sterry / Nature Photographers Ltd / Alamy Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 3 — On the Move —

On Human history has always been shaped by movement, whether motivated by necessity or compulsion, a thirst for adventure or the Move discovery, or economic success. Technical progress has changed the nature of mobility and As long as humankind has expanded the areas in which we are able to travel. Milestones have revolutionized human life – the invention of the wheel, the steam existed, people have moved from locomotive, the automobile and civilian aviation have transformed our view of the world and opened up new opportunities. place to place. Today, thanks to Advances in information and communication technologies have truly created a global village. Suddenly virtual mobility has communication technologies, become a possibility. With the internet and mobile telephones we can even travel without leaving making inroads into more and more aspects of our lives, we may even wonder whether virtual mobility might some day replace home. e world has become physical mobility altogether.

a village – but we still want Internet in ree out of Four Households Yet physical mobility and long-distance communications have al- to discover it for ourselves. ways existed side by side. e people of ancient times used Žre and By Sara Carnazzi Weber drums to send messages when distance made face-to-face commu- nication impossible. Written messages, whether produced with pen and paper or with the help of a printing press, opened up new avenues for communication across time and space. e possibili- ties expanded exponentially with the advent of electronic commu- nications. A desire to take advantage of time that would otherwise be spent traveling spurred the development of telecommunica- tions technologies.

Whether to make the trip or just a telephone call? e brave new world of communication.

4 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Mark Henley / Panos — On the Move —

With the invention of the telephone in the late 19th century, peo- “Mr. Watson, I want to see you” ple began to speculate as to whether this new tool might take the Finally, virtual mobility can encourage physical mobility. When place of physical movement. Much of the utopian literature of the people can be productive during their travel time, using mobile turn of the 20th century depicted a future society in which in- phones or laptops, they are less tempted to restrict their physical teractions would take place exclusively through teleconferences. movement. Many prefer a longer commute by public transporta- How much of these scenarios has become reality? tion to a shorter but less productive commute by car. Not very much. To be sure, the electronic communications Most importantly, when people become aware through that began with the telegraph and telephone have made dramatic modern means of communication of the options that are avail- progress, particularly in terms of speed and availability. e inter- able, their desire to travel increases. ey may decide to take a trip net, email and mobile phones have become ubiquitous, and they after receiving a telephone call or email; online information about render travel unnecessary in countless situations. In the OECD a protest can draw large numbers of people out onto the streets. countries, the number of households with internet access has grown And on the internet, you may meet people you would like to get from 28 percent to 75 percent over the past decade. e number of to know in person. As more and more information about individuals, potential business partners, places and countries becomes accessible online, It has become nearly there is greater interest in getting to know them in person, which in turn increases travel activity. Just as interest in discovering the unimaginable to meet world was triggered by maps and accounts of travel to faraway countries hundreds of years ago, today the readily accessible vir- without Žrst exchanging tual world makes people want to discover the actual world. e Žrst words that Alexander Graham Bell, the inventor of the tele- cell phone messages. phone, is said to have spoken into his telephone in 1876 express a desire that we can relate to today. His message to his assistant: cell phone users has jumped from 15 million to 1.35 billion since “Mr. Watson, come here, I want to see you.” the beginning of the 1990s. But during this same period the in- As technology advances, virtual mobility will be able to take crease in travel has continued unabated. Since 1970, the number of the place of actual mobility in even more ways. But these ad- kilometers traveled by car has more than doubled, increasing by 25 vances will also encourage physical mobility and travel – particu- percent in the past decade alone. Hopes that success in connecting larly since much of the world’s population has not yet reaped the people through computers might alleviate tra¢c-related problems – many beneŽts of mobility. ranging from environmental pollution to the daily stresses endured One of the major challenges of the future will be to deal with by commuters in congested cities – have not been fulŽlled. Or, to increasing physical movement in the world. e traditional urban look at it from another perspective, the fear that interpersonal rela- model, with jobs located in central areas and homes on the pe- tionships would wither in a digital world has proved unwarranted. riphery, is at risk of collapse. Further challenges include increases in energy consumption and environmental pollution. ere are a Increasingly Eœcient Movement number of ways to address these issues, ranging from optimizing Yet the relationship between physical and virtual mobility is more tra¢c management to implementing futuristic transportation sys- complex than simply a choice of one or the other. e options pro- tems, and from creating economic incentives by raising prices to vided by modern communications technologies can take the place providing for the common use of resources. We will also need new of physical movement. When businesspeople hold a telephone approaches to urban planning. Virtual mobility will be helpful in conference, there is no need for them to travel. Telecommuting dealing with these challenges, but at the same time it will continue and distance learning make traveling to a workplace or training to be part of the problem. site unnecessary, and commercial and service websites allow users to shop, make bank payments and take care of administrative tasks without actually having to visit an o¢ce or business. Virtual and physical mobility can also complement each other, as when telecommunication makes physical mobility more e¢cient. Mobile phones are often used to plan or reschedule an in-person meeting. It has become nearly unimaginable to meet without Žrst exchanging a ¨urry of cell phone messages to deter- mine location and time. Complex types of telecommunications can serve a complementary function as well. We can hardly con- ceive of managing air or rail travel without such tools. And “intel- ligent” transportation systems that provide real-time road infor- Sara Carnazzi Weber is Head of Fundamental Macroeconomic Research at mation can help to optimize tra¢c ¨ows. Credit Suisse.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 5 — On the Move —

My Life, My Path,

MyIt is handy, easily Bicycle available and inexpensive, good for the environment and sometimes it even provides for economic livelihood. Bicycles are solving tra¢c problems throughout the world and making their owners happy.

6 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

1 Bicycle Sharing Program Hangzhou, China

Xu Di, 31, data analyst: “In Hangzhou, there is a bicycle station almost every 300 meters and an app shows availability. Many residents don’t have their own bicycle anymore; it’s far more practical to borrow one. My wife and I borrow two when we visit my parents, they don’t live far away.”

Photo: Wenjie Yang Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 7 — On the Move —

2 E-Bike Zurich-Altstetten, Switzerland

Verena Streit, 62, retiree: “ e Flyer changed my life. After retiring in 2011, a colleague suggested that I do a bicycle tour. at’s when I had the idea to buy ‘Pinky,’ my Žrst e-bike, it’s bright pink. I’ve since bought a second e-bike with a stronger battery. I ride for pleasure and am enjoying getting to know Switzerland on my e-bike.”

8 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Dan Cermak — On the Move —

3 Raahgiri Gurgaon, India

Amit Bhatt, 38, is a transportation specialist and co-organizer of the “Raahgiri” or car-free Sunday: “India should not make the same mistake as the Western industrialized nations that have invested in automobile infra- structure and, as a result, become mired in tra¢c problems. We need modern concepts and more bicycles.”

Photo: Tenzing Dakpa Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 9 — On the Move —

10 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Sven TorŽnn — On the Move —

4 Bicycles as Goods Transport Ruiru, Kenya

Laban Njoroge, 42, farmer: “I use my bicycle to transport grass for my three cows. I have a barn, but not my own land, so I go to other farms to cut grass. at costs me one franc. en I get water and hang three canisters on the bike. My friend here uses his bike to bring Žrewood to the market. Incidentally, my bike is 20 years old, it cost 48 francs back then – I like it because it is built like a rock.”

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 11 — On the Move —

5 Cargo Bikes Hilversum, Holland

Laura Kasteleijn, 34, model: “Like almost all Dutch people, I was practically born on a bicycle; I’ve been cycling since I was two years old. My Žrst bike was a ‘Winther tricycle’, the same model that my three-year-old son Dolf is now riding. I recently bought a cargo bike so I can transport the children. We could have bought a car, but the children love the cargo bike.”

12 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Daan Brand — On the Move —

6 The Folding Bike London, UK

Olaf Storbeck, 40, ‰nance journalist: “ e ‘Brompton fold-away bike’ is my constant compan- ion in London. It takes 15 seconds to fold it down to the size of a briefcase. I take this bike everywhere I go – up to my apartment, to the o¢ce, the pub. It Žts into a supermarket shopping cart, in the coatroom at the theater, on the ¨oor of a taxi.”

Photo: Daniel Stier Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 13 — On the Move —

7 Bicycle Paths Buenos Aires, Argentina

Ignacio Aladro, 44, judicial o‹cer: “Buenos Aires is an exciting city for visitors and residents alike. e distance between my apartment and my o¢ce at the main courthouse is ten kilometers, and there is a direct subway connection. In Europe, this ride would be uncomfortable at rush hour, but here, it is hell. Because I wasn’t willing to be trans- ported like cattle anymore, I switched to the only means of transport that allows me to get somewhere in this city at least halfway on time.”

14 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Angeles Peña — On the Move —

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 15 — On the Move —

–With the major increase in e-bikes, the number of accidents has also risen. However, TCS o«ers safety classes for 1 e-bikers. But experts do not believe that e-bikes are, Bicycle Sharing Program in Hangzhou, China in general, more dangerous; there are simply more accidents “In the history of our planet, no means of transport has spread so because there are more bicycles. quickly as the shared bicycle,” explains British tra¢c specialist Pe- ter Midgley: ere were only a handful of cities that o«ered bike- share systems around 2000. Today, there are more than 500 cities with a total of more than 500,000 bicycles. 3 Bike-share systems are most widespread in Asia. ere are Raahgiri — Gurgaon, India 79 cities with bike-share systems in China alone. One example is e idea of closing o« a section of the road to make it available Hangzhou. Neighboring Shanghai, this city of 6 million created to residents has been around for a while. e Žrst initiatives can the country’s Žrst computer-based bike-share system in 2008, now be traced back to the 1960’s. e concept became popular in Co- with almost 70,000 bicycles available for use. About 3,000 sta- lumbia with the Ciclovía Recreativo in Bogotá (1976) where a tions are spread around the city and the red bicycles are integrated 120 km section of the road was closed Sunday after Sunday so into the public transportation system. A smart card allows users that two million people could ride bikes, do yoga, go jogging or access to bicycles and to pay for all means of transportation. An take a walk. app displays the stations’ locations and bicycle availability. A Ciclovía can have di«erent goals. It can inspire local res- It has yet to be determined whether there is a connection be- idents to exercise or promote the use of the bicycle as a means of tween bike sharing and the satisfaction of the residents of Hang- transport. Even Switzerland has held its own version of Ciclovía. zhou (surveys show it to be the happiest city in China), yet the In 1973, at the height of the oil crisis, the car-free Sunday was government’s goal is to make China once again the “Kingdom meant to encourage the population to save gas. Later on, referen- of Bicycles.” Hangzhou seems to be well on its way. Following a dums for car-free Sundays were rejected (1978 and 2003). drop in cyclists from 43 percent (2000) to 34 percent (2007), the e Raahgiri in Gurgaon started only last November. e Žgure rebounded to 37 percent (2009) after the bike-share system car-free Sunday in this satellite city of New Delhi with about one was launched. million inhabitants, is based on the Columbian model, but with – e initial investments in the system in Hangzhou a strong political component. India’s major cities are becoming amounted to CHF 25 million. mired in tra¢c chaos. e bicycle could help solve certain tra¢c –Bicycles can be used free of charge for the Žrst hour, problems, yet it is seen as transportation for the lower class. e then the prices begin to rise progressively. e next hour organizers of the Raahgiri (Raah = path, Giri = rebellion) want to costs 15 cents, the third hour 30, etc. change this. e bicycle should be seen as an integral part of a modern transport concept that is supported by the government. –Tra¢c deaths in India per year: 140,000. –In Gurgaon, 33 percent of people on the road are pedestrians 2 or cyclists, but less than 23 percent of the roads have intact E-Bike — Zurich-Altstetten, Switzerland sidewalks and bicycle lanes are non-existent. Every seventh bicycle sold in Switzerland is an e-bike, about –Raahgiri: Every Sunday, about ten kilometers of road are 230,000 of them are already on the roads and the Swiss Bicycle blocked o« to cars in Gurgaon so that 15–20,000 people Information O¢ce (SFZ) estimates that the number will reach a can enjoy walking or cycling without tra¢c. e initiative half million within ten years. With the growing number of electric has received many awards and has already spread, with new bicycles, the customers have also changed. Raahgiris being held in Mumbai and Ludhiana. Roland Fuchs, director of the SFZ and spokesman for Velo Suisse says that the Žrst people who bought e-bikes from e-bike pioneer Flyer were mainly “physicists and other tech enthusi- asts” interested in environmentally-friendly transport solutions. 4 Between 2002 and 2005, as sales of e-bikes rose annually from Bicycle as Goods Transport — Ruiru, Kenya around 500 to 1,000, many older people were added to the mix as In many countries in sub-Sahel Africa, the bicycle is more than customers. en, starting in 2006, as sales of battery-driven bikes a way to get places or to exercise. It is an economic factor and a practically doubled, reaching sales of 50,000 e-bikes per year, they source of income for many families. Mobility is a basic require- also became trendy among younger women. e main reasons for ment to secure a regular income. Because cars are expensive, the purchasing e-bikes were topographical conditions, such as hilly roads bad and gas availability unreliable, the “Bodaboda” or bicy- areas and the need to transport children in a trailer. cle taxi is indispensable for transporting people and goods. e Up until 2010, e-bikes topped out at 25 km/h, then came Žrst Bodabodas appeared in the 1960’s and 1970’s and were some- the 45 km/h model, making the e-bike a fast, sporty vehicle with times used by smugglers, hence the name. Boda means border in a greater appeal for men. Young people have yet to get on board, English, as in the border between Kenya and Uganda. e bicycle due to the high prices of e-bikes. spread from there. –In Swiss cities, public transportation is the e-bike’s greatest In rural areas, the bicycle is indispensable for farmers. Well competitor. e better the public transportation, the fewer over half of Kenya’s population lives from farming, mainly oper- e-bikes you will see on the roads. ating on very small plots of land. Farmers must cover the distance

16 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

between their homes and the land they are farming and seeds have a resurrection. e bike that folds down to the size of a briefcase to be transported and the harvest brought to merchants. made by the West London manufacturer Brompton is today a cult But the bicycle also plays a greater role. It helps maintain object. e hype around the Brompton bike is huge, and with its contact to the next village, provides access to schools, health small wheels and curved top tube, this cycle makes hybrid com- care, water and other important necessities. muting possible. People can ride part of the way, then go by public – e bicycle is the most important means of transport in transport or car. It’s also ideal for small apartments and is nearly Kenya, where about 90 percent of the roads are unpaved. theft-proof. You can take it into the o¢ce, museum or theater and –A Bodaboda driver rides about 50 kilometers per day. hand it over to the coatroom attendant. Brompton produces about 35,000 handmade folding bikes annually, of which 80 percent are exported. Depending on the options, the bike costs from 1,500 to over 2,500 Swiss francs. 5 With just 160 employees, Brompton Bicycle Ltd. is one of Lon- Cargo Bike — Hilversum, the Netherlands don’s largest manufacturing operations. In 1995 the company was One in ten citizens owned a bicycle in 1896 and domestic man- honored for its export successes with an award from the Queen. ufacturers were producing one million bicycles per year – almost –Brompton will soon be launching a folding e-bike. half of the world’s production. If you think this is Holland, you’d – e company is also planning a bicycle share program; be wrong. At the end of the 19th century, another country was they are developing a system that holds 40 folding bikes in leading in bicycle transport: the US. In the Netherlands at that the area of a parking space. time, the bicycle was still a luxury for the upper class. By 1930 the world map of bicycling looked entirely di«erent. In the US, bicycle density had dropped considerably, with every sixth American now owning a car. e trend was absolutely the 7 opposite in the Netherlands: ere was one bicycle per 3.25 in- Bicycle Path — Buenos Aires, Argentina habitants. What happened? Bicycles became popular due to lower Buenos Aires is ¨at like Amsterdam, enjoys twice as much sun- production costs and higher wages among workers. At the same shine as Copenhagen and its temperatures are about 14 degrees time, the Dutch government supported cycling very early on. By warmer than Hamburg on average. Argentina’s metropolis would 1932, the country already had 1,400 kilometers of bicycle trails. be an ideal bicycle-friendly city, but most of its inhabitants con- As in many other European countries, the car enjoyed its sider the bicycle more as a child’s toy, torture device or transpor- heyday in Holland between 1950 and 1975, while bicycle use stag- tation for the lower classes. nated. Yet the many car accidents (in 1971, more than 3,000 peo- Confronted with a growing torrent of cars on its roads, con- ple died, 450 of them children) resulted in political movements servative mayor Mauricio Macri has been forced to consider af- like “Stop de Kindermoord,” and the oil crisis accelerated the need fordable tra¢c solutions. Inspired by the European bicycle cul- for fuel-free transport. ture, he began investing in bicycle paths in 2009. However, buses, e comprehensive “Masterplan Fiets” (Bicycle Master taxis and motorcycle couriers declared cyclists as their natural Plan), which took seven years to prepare (starting in 1990), and enemy and have turned the bicycle paths into waiting zones, bus major investments in bicycle infrastructure made Holland what it stops or express lanes. is today: one of the leading bicycle countries in the world where, Nevertheless, more and more residents are leaving the instead of using the car, entire families take to the roads with Bak- crowded buses and bottlenecked roads for the 130 kilometers of Žets (cargo bikes) built in the Netherlands. wide bicycle paths and trails separated from the road by cement – e bicycle as the primary means of transportation (selected barriers. countries): e Netherlands (31 %), Germany (13 %), UK (2 %). – ere are now about 150,000 commuter trips made by bicycle –Per capita investment in bicycle infrastructure (selected cities, every day in Buenos Aires, Žve times more than before the in euros): Groningen: 26, Amsterdam: 25, Copenhagen: 23, construction of the new bicycle paths in 2009. London 11.5, Berlin: 2.4. – e bicycle now makes up about two percent of all inner city –Tra¢c index: Amsterdam ranks 50th among 60 European tra¢c; the government’s goal is Žve percent. cities with only 19 % congestion. In comparison: Reports and design: Simon Brunner, Andreas Fink, David Schnapp 1st Moscow (74 %), 2nd Istanbul (62 %), 8th Paris (35 %), 18th Berlin (27 %), 57th Bern (16 %).

6 Folding Bike — London, UK e UN has estimated that Žve billion people worldwide will be living in cities by 2030. Space is already tight and the roads over- ¨owing in New York, Tokyo and London, to name a few. e folding bike is the perfect mobility concept for solving the speciŽc tra¢c problems of the big city. e company that be- gan producing the folding bike in the 1970’s is now experiencing

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 17 18 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

“I became an economist thanks to a Russian satellite” Laura Tyson, advisor to Barack Obama and the Žrst dean of the London Business School, discusses the advantages and disadvantages of globalization, increasing inequality and gender quotas. By Daniel Ammann (article) and Dan Cermak (photos)

Professor Tyson, people are more mobile countries over the past 20 years.* e and economically interdependent than results are clear. Countries that are open ever before. If you had to respond in a single to such exchange have beneŽted, while sentence, would you say this is good or bad? those that are not have fallen behind. As an economist, I believe that closer ties in the global economy are a good What benets does globalization oer? thing overall. British economist David Ricardo de- scribed the beneŽcial e«ect of foreign Why? trade 200 years ago, and he has been e transnational exchange of goods, proved right. It’s about specialization. services, capital and people plays a sig- A division of labor allows countries to niŽcant role in the economic growth concentrate on what they do best, such of individual countries and the global as manufacturing goods that they are economy. It creates wealth. is has been able to produce more cost-e«ectively “Overall, the beneŽts outweigh shown by a new study by the McKinsey than other countries. On a global scale, the negative”: Economics professor Global Institute in which I was involved. this increases e¢ciency and output. e Laura Tyson. We looked at the development of 195 world is governed by scarcity, and we

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 19 — On the Move —

need to use our resources as e¢ciently as possible. is is beneŽcial for all of the countries involved. So the Žrst beneŽt of globalization is specialization and e¢- ciency. Number two is competition: As the world becomes more mobile and in- terconnected, there is more competition between countries and companies. is leads to new, better, innovative solutions.

Do you see political as well as economic ad- vantages? Absolutely. More exchange, more global trade, helps us to understand the rest “Global trade helps us” (Photo: Apple Store in Hong Kong). of the world, especially our di«erences. is is important for geopolitical rela- tions and international stability. And not least, globalization allows us to ad- dress global challenges, such as climate compensation to the losers. e beneŽts How has the exchange of goods and persons change. are ample enough for that to be possible. changed over the past 20 years? e McKinsey Global Institute study What are the disadvantages of a more mo- Is that only a theoretical possibility? shows growth particularly in the ex- bile and highly interconnected world? Unfortunately, countries have not really change of goods. Within that cate- Interdependence and globalization also committed the resources to do that. As gory, there is more trade in technolog- lead to structural transitions that can a society, we haven’t yet succeeded in ical products. In the past, international have a negative impact on certain coun- providing adequate support to globaliza- trade tended to focus on labor-intensive tries, companies and individuals. Let me tion’s losers. goods, such as clothing and agricultural give you a simple example. I just men- products. is shift re¨ects trends in the tioned specialization: Let’s say you’re What might be done? global economy. You may Žnd it surpris- a farmer in a small community, or you e Nordic countries, and particularly ing that there has been no substantial manufacture a product for a small num- Denmark, are pursuing a policy of “¨ex- change in the movement of persons. Of ber of customers. Suddenly an outsider icurity,” which combines a high level of course, people are traveling more today appears who is able to do your job better ¨exibility in the labor market with an than they used to. However, less than and more cheaply. at’s a good thing active employment policy and a social three percent of the world’s people leave for the economy because it increases e¢- safety net. the country of their birth to settle in an- ciency. But for you personally, of course, other country. it has a negative e«ect, perhaps even Can you give a specic example? robbing you of your livelihood. Or take Let’s assume that you have completed the example of trade between the US your training, you have certain skills, and China: Americans beneŽt, since it and you are doing relatively well in your allows our companies to sell their prod- job. And then international competi- ucts in China. But it has had the e«ect of tion pushes you out of your industry. If Laura Tyson, 67, is one of the best-known moving some of our production abroad, you Žnd yourself in such circumstances, economists in the United States. She chaired the where labor is cheaper. It has also meant you need to be able to be ¨exible with- Council of Economic Advisors in the Clinton administration from 1993 to 1995, and helped to that some jobs and entire companies out having to worry about your family’s shape its economic and trade policy. She was have left the US or disappeared alto- welfare. Perhaps you will need retrain- appointed dean of the London Business School gether. ing, and you may even have to relocate to in 2002 as the Žrst woman to hold that position. Žnd a new job. e Scandinavian coun- Today she is a professor at the University of €ere are winners and losers. tries make sure that people in such dif- California, Berkeley, and a member of President Overall, as I’ve pointed out, countries Žcult situations receive enough income Barack Obama’s Economic Recovery Advisory and the global economy are beneŽting. support to look after themselves and Board. She sits on the Boards of Directors of Morgan Stanley, AT&T and Eastman Kodak e question, however, is how these ben- their families. To put it in general terms, and serves as an advisor to the Credit Suisse eŽts are distributed. One might imagine structural transitions must be handled in Research Institute. a world in which the winners provide a socially responsible way.

20 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Amanda Hall / Robert Harding / Keystone — On the Move —

Why so few? have therefore called for better controls elites have done better – the people who e Žrst reason, of course, is that coun- on the in¨ows and out¨ows of short- caused the crisis and are at the top of tries have laws governing immigration. term capital. Emerging and developing companies – in other words, the elites of ey don’t make it easy to live and work countries, in particular, need “patient” globalization. in a foreign country. And there are also capital that is invested over the long language, cultural and social barriers. term, making it possible to fund devel- €ere are increasing calls for protectionist For individuals, moreover, emigration opment. measures. involves unknown risks. As a result, the It is understandable that one response world is far more interconnected in the is protectionism, a desire for protection area of goods and capital than in the e middle class and against external in¨uences – and that movement of workers. Indeed, it is more people are blaming those who are di«er- likely that jobs will move than the peo- the socially disadvantaged ent from themselves. It’s hard enough in ple who perform them. have been hit hard. normal economic times to convince the economic winners to help the losers. You tend to take a cautious view of capital mobility. Why? It appears that people in the Western indus- Although we haven’t actually called I have no problem with capital that is trialized countries are becoming increas- it by name, we’ve been talking a great deal invested over the long term. But short- ingly skeptical about globalization, seeing about the central issue of this period: term, largely speculative investments more risks than benets. Many countries economic inequality. can be very dangerous, particularly are tightening their immigration laws. at’s exactly what it’s all about. for emerging and developing coun- €ere is a trend toward protectionism. tries. Short-term capital can be quickly What went wrong? Can you explain why inequality is withdrawn, for example in response to e global economic crisis that began a problem? changed political or economic circum- in 2008, and the slow recovery since First of all, it’s important to note that stances. is can rapidly exacerbate a then. ere is a widespread perception economic inequality is leading to rising country’s di¢culties, plunging it into that the burdens of the recovery have tension because this is a trend that has a serious crisis and recession. We have not been evenly shared. e middle class been with us for quite some time. seen this repeatedly, for instance during and the socially disadvantaged have the debt crises in Latin America in the been hit hard. e recession destroyed You warned about it a long time ago. 1980s and in Asia in the late 1990s. A jobs and livelihoods and put pressure on I recently came across a memo that number of economists and policymakers wages. Many apparently believe that the I wrote for Al Gore in 2000 when he was running for the presidency. In it, I listed the Žve biggest problems facing the American economy. One of them, in fact, was the increasing economic inequality.

So why is it a problem? e richest one percent of the popula- tion accounts for a very large share of the country’s national income and is pull- ing away from the rest. Middle-class incomes, on the other hand, are stag- nant or experiencing only slow growth. If all wages were to increase, inequality would be seen as less of a problem. As it is, however, economic growth is being undermined.

In what way? e middle class makes up the larg- est group of consumers. And consump- tion accounts for the highest proportion “Good work”: Tyson with US President Bill Clinton in Washington, 1999. of overall economic demand. When

Photo: Diana Walker / Hulton Archive / Getty Images Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 21 — On the Move —

middle-class incomes are stagnant, con- ose earning less than a certain amount progress in women’s wages and their rep- sumption remains stagnant as well, and would pay no taxes, but instead receive resentation in top jobs. In a number of growth slows down. Studies have also money from the government to assure a European countries, on the other hand, shown that greater equality promotes minimum standard of living. So taxa- we have seen pretty aggressive moves economic growth. It helps to o«set busi- tion is one approach. Policies could also including gender quotas for corporate ness cycles, since the middle class con- be put in place to provide more transfers boards and top management positions. tinues to consume, thereby supporting to families – for health insurance, child But the largest gap, globally, is in poli- the economy. But the biggest problem allowances, training beneŽts, pension tics. Women make up a very small per- with inequality is probably the loss of subsidies and similar purposes. e Eu- centage of leaders at the presidential and talent. It leads to an erosion of equal op- ropean welfare states do far more in this ministerial level. portunity. is is at odds with our sense regard than the United States. of fairness and justice. Christine Lagarde, Managing Director of €e counterargument is that tax increases the International Monetary Fund (IMF), Please explain. drive away those who pay the high taxes made the following comments to the Fi- We are losing many talented people from needed to nance the welfare state. nancial Times two years ago: “When I was disadvantaged families who no longer In most European countries, social ben- a lot younger, I was dead against quotas. have the opportunity to develop their eŽts are Žnanced not by direct taxes, I thought at the time that we as women skills and talents – for themselves, their but rather by a value-added tax. When should be accepted on our own merits. But families and society as a whole. A grow- seeking to reduce inequality, it is very ef- as I’m getting older, I see that it’s moving ing share of the population is caught in Žcient to use this non-progressive tax to on too slowly. And now I support quotas. the disadvantaged circumstances it is Žnance social-assistance programs that I support quotas in companies. I support born to, with little access to education have a progressive e«ect. quotas in political circles as well.” How do and training. We are seeing very disturb- you see this issue? ing trends. Increasing economic inequal- I agree with Christine Lagarde that ity is causing a decline in social mobility Certain skills receive progress is too slow. I am a bit older from one generation to the next. In other than she is, and I never gave any words, inequality prevents people from higher compensation thought to quotas. But I certainly moving up in society. would not have wanted to be recruited than others. as part of a quota. €at has been a motivating principle for generations. If you work hard and apply Why not? yourself, you can be more successful than You were the rst woman to be appointed Everyone would have known that I was your parents. dean of the London Business School, in selected because of the quota. Would my Exactly. We have said that you can make 2002. It is our impression that little prog- colleagues have treated me the same? it if you really want to. Here is the lad- ress has been made in recent years in is is what makes me skeptical about der, you just need to climb it. And now achieving gender equality in the business quotas. I have no doubt that we would we’re removing the rungs. We’re depriv- world. Are we mistaken? Žnd enough well qualiŽed women to Žll ing ourselves of that talent. It varies a lot by sector. When it comes a quota. But people would assume that to American higher education, I don’t those women owed their positions to the What can be done to alleviate economic share your perception. Many women quota rather than to their performance. inequality and maintain social mobility – hold high positions at universities, in- at’s the downside. the chance to get ahead? cluding highly prestigious institutions. Before I answer your question, let me e president of Harvard is a woman, Have you experienced disadvantages in lay out my basic assumptions. e mar- for example. Women have made great your career because of your gender? ket creates income inequalities. Certain strides in the Želd of education, and that No, in fact I think that as a woman I skills receive higher compensation than also holds true for economics depart- have beneŽted from the women’s lib- others. is results in economic inequal- ments. Many countries have succeeded eration movement and from the grow- ity. What can we do about it? In the in closing the education gap; in many ing gender consciousness. e academic short term, policymakers can use the tax disciplines, more women than men are institutions that I was interested in were system to correct the market. Income completing their degrees. making active e«orts to recruit a higher can be taxed at progressive rates, with percentage of women at the time. For the revenues used for redistribution. One And how about in the private sector? example, the Massachusetts Institute might also consider a negative income During the Žrst decade of the current of Technology (MIT) in Cambridge tax, an old idea from Milton Friedman: century, the United States showed little was very happy to have me enroll in its

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Bill, which was a law that provided Ž- nancial support for returning soldiers, allowing them to complete training or go to college. My father went to night school and was subsequently able to pur- sue a successful career. I personally ben- eŽted from the National Defense Ed- ucation Act, which Žnanced my entire graduate education.

Can you tell us more about that law? It provided for an enormous increase in US spending on higher education and scholarships – particularly for socially disadvantaged families – to promote sci- ence and technology. It was passed after the Soviet Union launched a satellite, the famous Sputnik, into orbit in 1957 – the Žrst country in the world to do so, ahead of the United States.

You proted from “Sputnik shock”! Indeed, I became an economist thanks to a Russian satellite (laughing). To come back to your question about the best instruments for promoting upward mobility. I’m convinced that education is what makes the di«erence. Countries need to see to it that children are o«ered equal educational opportunities, regard- less of the socioeconomic status of their “I wouldn’t have wanted to be hired to Žll a quota.” Tyson in Zurich. parents.

doctoral program in economics. I was because of my ability to deal with eco- the Žrst student from a women’s college nomic issues. to attend MIT. My gender was also an important factor when Bill Clinton ap- If Hillary Clinton decides to run for presi- pointed me to the chairmanship of the dent, how would you respond if she were to Council of Economic Advisors. ere ask you: “Laura, what are the best instru- were no formal quotas, but I’m sure I ments for promoting upward mobility for beneŽted from being a woman. as many people as possible?” To respond, let me tell you something What was the response of your male of my own life story. From the very be- colleagues? ginning, it is a story of publicly funded (laughing) Many of my colleagues were education. My father was the son of really furious. Some of them were foolish poor Italian immigrants who lived in an enough to express their anger publicly, impoverished area of New Jersey. His suggesting that I wasn’t as well qualiŽed chances of moving up in society were as they were. Of course, I beneŽted from very, very small. en he served in the * McKinsey Global Institute, Global ”ows in a being a woman. But I did good work for US army in World War II. After the digital age: How trade, ‰nance, people, and data Clinton, not because I was a woman, but war, he received beneŽts under the GI connect the world economy, April 2014

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 23 — On the Move —

A Box on the Move A steel box has revolutionized trade. anks to the shipping container, bilateral trade in the northern hemisphere has increased nearly nine-fold in 20 years.

By Tim Sprissler

ere’s a lot of cargo on the move in boxes. e use of containers also changed Žnanc- lowing their introduction, Australia was Since the middle of the last century, a rev- ing. Unproductive time was decreased the only country to use containers besides olution has been underway, one that was starting from preproduction, and with it the US, also initially for domestic trans- necessary for the current global nature of the amount of tied-up capital, as the pre- portation only. the economy: the introduction in 1956 of cursors arrived at the processing location the shipping container, known in the in- more quickly. Insurance costs went down e US Army on the Forefront dustry as a “box.” as well, as the goods were “sealed” in con- e Žrst international usage occurred in e revolution, to put it simply, lies tainers and better protected against loss 1966 with the transportation of boxes be- in the ability to move a container between and theft. Finally, the number of parties tween the eastern coast of the US and Eu- truck, train and ship during the transporta- and contracts involved in transportation rope. Following the standardization of the tion of goods rather than loading a lot of in- fell. e process became simpler and more container size at 2.6 meters high, 2.4 me- dividual boxes, bottles and bags. As a result, reliable. e use of containers in the US ters w ide, and 6.1 meters long the nex t yea r, it is no longer necessary to handle the goods the simple transfer of goods between dif- themselves. is saves time and money, ferent modes of transport became a reality. which, in addition to other developments Cargo for the Vietnam e Žrst companies started leasing these such as abolishing customs and excise, has standardized containers, which reduced driven global trade and the global division War was often shipped the Žxed costs of transport companies. By of labor since the 1960s. According to es- in containers. the mid-1970s, more than 40 countries timates, the introduction of the box alone had built port infrastructure for contain- increased the volume of trade in the north- ers, including the Netherlands and the UK ern hemisphere nearly nine-fold in 20 years. was also a response to increasing wage costs in 1966, followed by Switzerland, France, and strikes promoted by powerful unions. Germany, Italy and Japan two years later. An Unreasonable Idea From today’s perspective, the intro- Yet there was still very little freight actu- e productivity of port workers rose duction of containers may appear logical, ally being transported in containers. sharply because it was no longer necessary even obvious. At the time, however, they Broad usage was bolstered initially to handle pieces individually. For example, seemed anything but practical, as a num- by the US military, which by the end of the British ports could now handle 30 metric ber of expensive adjustments were neces- 1960s often shipped cargo for the Vietnam tons of goods per hour – over 15 times more sary. When US transportation entrepre- War and the Cold War in containers. is than before. anks to direct loading from neur Malcom McLean used containers for removed one obstacle to their wider use, road and rail to ship, one of the bottlenecks a shipment from Port Newark to Hous- as providers of partial containers emerged. that accounted for nearly half of transport ton for the Žrst time in 1956, he used a Smaller companies could now use the box costs as late as 1960 was eliminated. As a converted tanker from World War II and as well, even if they did not want to ship an result, larger ships with greater capacity the existing port infrastructure to load entire container. us, between 1984 and could be used. Previously, such ships were his 58 boxes. e price for standard usage 2008 just under two-thirds of all goods not very practical, as they only increased and complete utilization of the advantages that could be transported in containers the waiting times in clogged harbors. e was extremely high. Container ships cost were actually transported in this man- global division of the value chain was thus nearly four times as much per cubic foot of ner. Although today just under 15 per- greatly simpliŽed. In this process, spe- cargo space compared to traditional ship- cent of the total volume of maritime trade cialized producers manufacture goods in ping. A container crane cost 1.75 million is shipped in containers, this represents high quantities, which reduces the Žxed US dollars, and the container itself was more than half of such trade in terms of cost per unit. 3,500 US dollars. In the Žrst decade fol- value, as electronic devices transported

24 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

The Container System Flow of Goods & Port Handling (in million TEU) More than half the value of maritime trade Standard measure: is shipped in containers. 22 million boxes 20-foot container between Asia and North America alone. Shanghai 6 (as of 2012) 1 32.5 2.9 22.0 m Los Angeles

2.591 8.1

2.438 m 6.058 m

New York Hong Kong Global Access 5.5 23.1 By 2008, all but three countries with water access had a container port. Panama Canal Singapore Proportion of countries with Rotterdam Hamburg 31.7 container ports 4 11.9 8.9 9 Strait of Proportion of containerizable 4.6 Malacca goods shipped via container 1.2 100 % 2 Strait of 13.4 Hormuz 8 5 80 % Gibraltar 1.7 4.1 Suez Canal 60 % 3 6.3 40 % 1 Asia–North America 2 Asia–northern Europe 20 % 3 Asia–Mediterranean area 4 Northern Europe–North America

7 5 Asia–Middle East 6 Australia–Far East 2.0 1956 – 1966 – 1975 – 1984 – 7 Asia–eastern coast of South America 65 74 83 2008 8 Northern Europe/Mediterranean area– Cape of eastern coast of South America Good Hope 9 North America–eastern coast of Ship Sizes South America The largest vessels in their class.

Larger Ships, Lower Costs At 10,000 boxes per carrier, transporting a box costs half as much as it would with 2,500 units per ship. “Knock Nevis” (oil tanker) — 458 m 100 %

Modern ships can be Capital costs navigated by fewer Operating costs 80 % personnel. On large 70.3 % Fuel costs “Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller” (container ship) — 399 m cargo ships with space for 11,000 boxes and 60 % 54.5 % 52.9 % more, only 13 people 49.8 % are needed. Older ships that are only half as 40 % “Vale Brasil” (bulk carrier) — 362 m large require 23 crew members. 20 % Blue whale — approx. 30 m 0 % “Allure of the Seas” (passenger ship) — 360 m 2,500 4,000 6,000 8,000 10,000 TEU TEU TEU TEU TEU

Imports from China to the EU

20 % 15 % 10 % 10 % 5 % 40 %

Electronic devices and Furniture Clothing/ Vehicles/ Toys Miscellaneous kitchen appliances textiles automobile parts Sources: Gisela Rua, World Shipping Council, Wikipedia, Kearney, A.T. Maersk

Chart: Cra«t Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 25 — On the Move —

in boxes, for example, are more valuable than 18,000 standard containers. is can goal of squeezing out smaller competitors. than, say, wheat, oil and other commodi- be explained by greater cost e¢ciency, In addition, they would also be better able ties, which are not transported in contain- represented by the three E’s: economies of to tailor their coordinated o«ering to de- ers. By 2008, all but three countries with scale, energy e¢ciency and environment. mand on the respective routes. is could access to water transport had created the Providers can transport a box on a ship halt the price decline caused by overca- infrastructure for containers. with space for 10,000 standard containers pacity. Whether these changes will result By the beginning of the new mil- for half the cost of transporting on a ship in the same success as the introduction of lennium the center of container trade had with capacity for 2,500 units. containers, however, remains to be seen. shifted to Asia. With just under 22 million anks to slower trips (slow steam- e next major change may be im- standard containers transported (2012), ing), modern ships can further reduce fuel minent, but its outcome is highly uncer- the connection between Asia and North costs without damaging their engines. tain. e success of the introduction of America is the most important trading is more than compensates for the higher standard containers itself was not inevi- route in the world, followed by the route costs of longer trips and can improve time- table, of course. And yet the steel box has between Asia and northern Europe, with liness, as the freighters can travel at a more revolutionized global trade. just over 13 million containers. Nine of the constant speed, even in storms. Environ- ten largest ports are in Asia, with seven mental sustainability – particularly com- in China alone. Quick economic growth, pared to air cargo – continues to improve. trade integration and the geographic dis- In addition, modern ships can be maneu- tribution of the production facilities of multinational groups resulted in one- third of global container trade occurring within Asia in 2013. However, Europe is still home to the three largest shipping companies in the world: French company CMA CGM, the Mediterranean Ship- ping Company (MSC), based in Geneva, Slower trips allow modern and Danish company Maersk Line. ships to reduce fuel costs. Falling Prices Global container handling grew by an av- erage of 10 percent per year between 1990 and 2008, but the sector was not spared vered by just 13 crew members. Older by the Žnancial and economic crisis of cargo ships that are half the size require 2008. In 2009, container trade fell for the 23 people. erefore, older ships are in- Žrst time in history, declining by 9 per- creasingly being taken out of service and cent. Since then, the sector has strug- replaced. gled with overcapacity and falling prices. Competition is thus intensifying, While the transportation of a standard particularly on the main routes. e three container from southern China to north- dominant European providers plan to join ern Europe in May 2008 cost 4,000 US forces in an alliance to divide up shipping. dollars, it cost less than half of that by the However, regulators have yet to give their end of 2008. Since then, prices have ¨uc- approval. Smaller competitors are likewise tuated sharply and even dropped to 400 in negotiations concerning an alliance. US dollars in mid-2013 – about one-third of the price needed to cover costs. Cargo e Next Big Change specialists continue to expect greater ca- As a result, the range of routes and services Tim Sprissler works in Credit Suisse’s Funda- pacity than growth in demand in the near o«ered to customers could increase. Be- mental Macroeconomic Research department. future. While many container ships were cause the consolidated volumes would be Sources: Daniel Bernhofen, Zouheir El-Sahli ordered before the crisis, long production higher, some connections and o«ers would and Richard Kneller (2013), Estimating the times meant that they were not launched be proŽtable. is, in turn, could further E˜ects of the Container Revolution on World Trade, until 2008. bolster trade integration. e impact on working paper 2013:4, Lund University. Gisela Rua (2012), Fixed Costs, Network E˜ects, Paradoxically, despite the overca- prices is clear. First, the partners would be and the International Di˜usion of Containeriza- pacity, the largest ships ever built are cur- able to o«er lower rates as a result of e¢- tion. Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve rently being launched, with space for more ciency improvements, with the additional System.

26 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

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ACCENTUS charitable foundation, Bleicherweg 33, CH-8070 Zürich, +41 44 333 03 33 www.accentus.ch Supported by CREDIT SUISSE AG Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 27 Where There’s a Will, There’s a Way In no other country is wealth so evenly distributed, and social mobility so high, as in Australia. ere is a reason for that: e deeply rooted principle of “fair go,” which makes social advancement a reality rather than just a dream. By Julica Jungehülsing (text) and Tim Georgeson (photography)

Not everyone is equal, but everyone gets a chance (photo: the legendary Bondi Beach near Sydney).

28 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 29 — On the Move —

ot only are they sun-kissed, but richer and more equal as well. With an average wealth of 402,600 US dollars, Aus- tralia ranks second after Switzerland Namong the world’s wealthiest countries. At the same time, wealth in Australia is dis- tributed better than anywhere else. At 219,500 dollars, Australia has the highest median in the world, marking the mid- point between the richest and poorest peo- ple (in the US, it is a mere 45,000 dollars). According to ™gures from the Australian Trade Commission, the continent in the Southern Hemisphere has enjoyed un- abated growth for 22 years. People in Australia have greater so- cial mobility than in many other OECD countries. ere are several reasons for this: universal health care through the state medicare system, a solid social safety net with a relatively high minimum wage 1 (16.37 dollars per hour or around 600 dol- lars a week) and laws against racial dis- crimination. But above all, Australians are distinguished by a strong desire for educa- 1 — People who receive tion. And the quiet driver behind all of support are more that: “fair go” – the uno¤cial religion of successful later: University of Sydney. this continent. Fair go means that anyone who wants a chance gets one. Anyone who 2 — Waiter, tailor, tries hard can count on support. “Fair go salesperson: Dr. Pol does not mean that everyone is equal,” says McCann worked hard Professor Peter Shergold, Chancellor of and is now a lecturer the University of Western Sydney (UWS), at the Australian “but that everyone gets the best opportuni- College of Applied Psychology. ties.” 3 — e city’s Multiculturalism Is the Norm landmark: Sydney A mixture of languages accompanies the Opera House by Jørn morning rush hour. Young people whose Utzon. parents come from Korea or India, who have immigrated from China or Africa stream onto the UWS campus, as do stu- dents with Anglo-Saxon and European backgrounds. Many come from humble circumstances, large families, rural areas or are children of working-class parents – the ™rst generation to attend university. “Almost one-quarter of our Australian stu- dents come from the lower income levels, one-third do not speak English at home. Many are the ™rst in their family with a higher education.” Professor Shergold is 2 proud of that, because the university and

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3

government work hard together to remove without the unsel™sh support of others,” barriers at every level. says the 49-year-old lecturer at the Aus- Australia The name Australia comes from “Terra “Fast Forward” is one program that tralian College of Applied Psychology. australis,” Latin for southern land. oªers practical help to young people start- McCann was the youngest of eight chil- The country covers almost 8 million square ing in the ninth grade. Students talk to dren growing up in Dunedin, New Zea- kilometers and is nearly as large as all of professors at information fairs, and men- land. His father left school at 14 to work in Europe (10 million km²). All major cities are close to the coast, and most are in the tors help them handle the stress of exams. a factory. Pol quit school in the 12th grade, country’s southeast. e tutors reach 53 schools in up-and- struggled along as a waiter, tailor and coming Western Sydney through work- salesperson, then moved to Sydney and shops and presentations. Compared with became a hairdresser. other students, 80 percent of the students In Melbourne he drove streetcars who receive support from the start are through the inner city, which he really en- Brisbane joyed. “But after a while, I thought: Do I

want to spend the rest of my life chauªeur- Sydney Adelaide “My God, ing people to places where they do more Perth the government is paying interesting things than I do?” He ™nished Canberra the 12th grade at age 25, founded a com- Melbourne me to think!” pany and ended up counseling at-risk Population: 23.2 million teenagers as a social worker. At ™rst these Average wealth: 402,600 US dollars more successful in their studies, notes were part-time jobs, but he did them so Unemployment rate: 5.6 % Shergold. And knowledge is the key to so- well that he kept being oªered better jobs The most important sectors: (percentage of cial mobility. “e number of doors that – but they required a college degree. “Just GDP) financial services (9.7 %), manufacturing (8.2 %), construction (7.8 %), mining (7.3 %) open with a degree is in™nitely higher. e the incentive I needed,” says McCann. He GDP growth: Since 1960, the gross domestic heart of Australia’s legendary fair go is a did so well in Introduction to Psychology product has grown on average by 3.5 % good education.” that he was admitted to the University of (2.5 % since 2007). No recessions have Sydney, but he continued to work. “My occurred for 22 years. “e Next Step up the Ladder” boss at the youth shelter set the work Source: Credit Suisse Global Wealth Report, Learning was also important for Dr. Pol schedule according to my classes. Sud- OECD, Australian Bureau of Statistics McCann. “But I wouldn’t be here today denly meetings were on Mondays, be-

Photo: Westend 61 / Getty Images Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 31 — On the Move —

cause I was at the university on Fridays.” Personal commitment and assistance like this embody Australia’s fair go principle for him. McCann graduated summa cum laude with a degree in sociology and psychol- ogy, and at age 36 received a scholarship for graduate studies in Armidale, 800 km north of Sydney. “Out of the blue, a tu- tor oªered me an o¤ce including a library, colleagues, administrative o¤ce – with- out the university getting anything from me.” e kind of support and motivation that he received because he invested eªort was perhaps even more important than the ™nancial aid, says McCann. “At times I sat among my books and said to myself, ‘My God, the government is paying me to think!’”

“e Best Loan of their Life” McCann paid back the 16,000 dollars in tuition and fees from his ™rst salary. Since then, his income has more than tripled; he has two homes, likes to travel and lives well. “Of course, it would be nice if at- tending university were free. On the other hand, perhaps we study harder and are better focused when we pay for classes,”

1 “Commitment and

1 — From refugee to hard work are successful businesswoman: what’s important, Nahji Chu on her boat. not background.” 2 — Career in the ™rst world: misschu brochure with a passport photo from her says the psychologist. In addition, Austra- immigration visa in 1975. lians do not pay tuition in advance, but in- stead with a “fee help” loan. New profes- 3 — 25 million Australian sionals start repaying their loans when dollars in revenues per year: they earn 50,000 dollars a year. “e best e ™rst misschu restaurant loan that many receive in their entire life,” in Sydney. 2 says Professor Shergold. One indicator for social mobility is when parents’ status has little in²uence on their children. is factor is smaller in Australia than anywhere else: 12 percent of people from the bottom 20 percent of the population manage to climb to the top 20 percent. Forty-one percent of all chil- dren whose parents did not complete sec- ondary school earned a degree from a uni-

32 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

versity or comparable institution (see box Index – it’s also good for the economy. “Even if the gap between rich and poor gets below). is places Australia far ahead of Economists believe that social mobility wider, Australia’s poor are comparatively all other OECD countries (Switzerland: and growth have a positive impact on better oª,” says Benjamin Herscovitch, au- 17, Germany: 10, US: 14 percent). each other. If children from poor families thor of the study “A Fair Go – Fact or Fic- are not given opportunities, the country tion?” e number of Australians who pos- Australians Are Happy also loses out on their potential talent. sess 100,000 dollars or more is eight times Not only does a more level playing ™eld Australia’s relatively low unemployment greater than the global average. However, put people in a better mood – Australia is rate of 5.6 percent (OECD average is for political scientists the high rate of peo- one of the world’s three happiest coun- 7.9 percent) also speaks for greater equi - ple who start out with little and still suc- tries according to the OECD Better Life li brium. ceed is key. “We don’t punish the disadvan- taged. Commitment and hard work are what’s important, not background,” says Herscovitch. Nahji Chu is a fascinating example of this theory. She sits at the end of a long wooden table in her o¤ce and reviews a booklet in passport format: “A Culinary Tour of Vietnam with misschu” – the 44-year-old’s latest project. She arrived in Sydney as a refugee in 1978, and today the founder of Australia’s most successful Asian fast food chain sees 25 million dol- lars in earnings a year. She has not forgotten her past. On the contrary, large posters of her immigra- tion visa decorate the walls of the “miss- chu” bistros as a connection between the hungry refugee child and her career in the ™rst world. “Today refugees are sent back by boat or transported to Papua New 3 Guinea. If they were treated like we were back then, many would be successful

Where Parents’ Lack of Education Has Little Influence A university degree brings great economic advantages for the individual – and for society as a whole. The chart shows how great social mobility in education is in selected OECD countries. with The final educational level was measured for people aged 25 to 34 completed whose parents did not complete secondary education. In Australia, tertiary the highest number of these children completed secondary education schooling (horizontal axis) and over 40 percent even completed Australia 40 % tertiary education (vertical axis). (Source: OECD)

Ireland Sweden 30 % Netherlands Spain United Kingdom Canada OECD average Denmark 20 % Norway Belgium United States Portugal Switzerland Poland 10 % Italy Austria Germany Turkey Czech Republic

without completed 0 % secondary education 80 % 70 % 60 % 50 % 40 % 30 % 20 % 10 %

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 33 — On the Move —

1 — 1.12 million Australians are millionaires: exclusive location at Bondi Beach.

2 — Fair go works: Leah Fricke in Sydney’s business district; her father was a farmer, she is a professional board member.

1

3 — Rise of a nation: In the mid-1970s, only three Australians out of 100 had a university degree. Today nearly one in four do (photo: Sydney central business district).

3

2

34 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

2007 with recipes and ideas I’d had in my “Leah, Corop, 3559 Victoria.” Only four head for ages. When the ™rst snacks were families lived in the village three hours ready, I brought a tray ™lled with rice pa- north of Melbourne; her father was the el- per rolls to the opera house. When the ementary school teacher, although he was chef heard that I was working from home, actually a grain farmer. Fair go was a top he said, ‘I’d keep that to myself…’” He or- priority in the Fricke family. When Leah dered 30 meals as a trial. ree months received a scholarship for private school, later she had 17,000 orders. her parents saved until they could aªord to What began as a one-woman opera- send her two sisters there as well. “ey tion has grown into a brand that employs never would have sent only me to a better 280 people. Seven misschu restaurants serve school,” she says. Sydney and Melbourne, and she opened one Fricke was accepted into Melbourne’s in London in 2013. Eight more bistros are most prestigious law school. She wait- planned in Australia, Hong Kong, Dubai ressed to earn money for books, gas and and Los Angeles. e “Queen of Rice Paper copies, her shoes had holes, and one pair of Rolls” invests pro™ts in art, humanitarian jeans saw her through ™ve years of school. projects and new ideas. She works with en- “Fortunately fashion was never that im- thusiasm seven days a week. “I’m lucky, my portant to me,” she says today. After grad- job is to be myself. What could be better? I uation she got a job with Allen, one of Mel- have a company that makes money, gives bourne’s most renowned law ™rms. people jobs, supports the disadvantaged and like me,” says Chu, who found the Austra- helps Australia grow.” “My Background Never Held Me Back” lia of the 1970s somewhat racist, but fair. “Maybe some of my classmates had it easier e Chu family had to ²ee Laos in Millionaires on the Beach because their parents were academics or 1975 and endured three years in a camp At the beachfront end of Sydney, Leah came from better-known schools. But my in ailand before Australia granted them Fricke is just coming from training with background never held me back. Many asylum. “We stayed for six months in Vil- young lifeguards. All around her home on Australians of my generation have achieved lawood Hostel, which is now an immi- the famous Bondi Beach, two-room con- more than their parents,” states Fricke. In gration detention center. Children were the mid-1970s, only three percent of Aus- allowed to attend school in the neighbor- tralians had a university education. At the hood,” notes Nahji Chu. “I’m lucky, beginning of the 1990s, it was eight per- cent, and by 2011 almost one-quarter had Queen of Rice Paper Rolls my job is to be myself.” successfully completed a degree from a Social and church groups helped the fam- university or similar institution. By 2025, ily of eight ™nd their bearings. e Chus dos can easily cost one million dollars, and according to a 2009 government target, 40 worked for a year at a chicken farm. “Of a penthouse even twenty times as much. percent of all young Australians should course we were cheap labor. But everyone At this exclusive location between the have a university quali™cation. has to start somewhere, and we were sand and waves, only half an hour away Fricke left the law o¤ce for the busi- happy for the opportunity.” ey moved from the city, it seems plausible that 1.76 ness world and specialized in merger and to Melbourne, Nahji ™nished secondary million Australians belong to the top one acquisition law. She worked in Melbourne, school and tried diªerent things: wait- percent of the world’s wealthiest people. China and Perth, learning about mining ressing and journalism, a semester at a ey account for 3.8 percent of the world’s and the world of ™nance. In 1997 a job with university. She opened four stores for a superrich, although the 23 million Aus- a technology company brought her to Syd- fast food chain – without bene™ting from tralians comprise only 0.4 percent of the ney and she completed an MBA at the the pro™ts. “I was completely fed up with global population (source: Credit Suisse same time. She gave up her well-paying job the restaurant business.” She worked her Wealth Report) – a result of the longtime as a lawyer in 2012 to concentrate on strat- way up from a bank call center to the in- commodities boom that made many mine egy, risk management and business man- vestment department and earned a degree owners, transportation entrepreneurs and agement. She ™nds her work as a non-exec- in ™nancial advising. “Stocks fascinated investors rich. utive director – comparable to the role of a me, but in the end I wasn’t clever enough At age 44, Fricke scarcely has mil- supervisory board member – creative and to become a stockbroker.” lions. Yet she moves with con™dence exciting. Fricke now works at six diªerent Chu’s motto was “all or nothing.” through Sydney’s top management levels. companies. ree of those positions are She quit her job and started her own busi- But the contrast couldn’t be greater. Her paid; the rest are for the experience and to ness. “I started out in my tiny kitchen in mailing address as a child was simple: build her image.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 35 — On the Move —

1

1 & 2 — “Like a domino eªect”: Garry Taulu (right) came with his mother from Sulawesi and is now a successful software designer

3 — Plenty of stumbling blocks. e St. Clair District in Western Sydney is not the place where dream careers are normally launched.

2

e Taulu Example glasses. And there were plenty of stum- spent a year learning the guitar and com - Of course it doesn’t hurt to come from a bling blocks in the 26-year-old’s path. puter tricks. “Just to keep myself busy – well-educated family, but this oªers fewer Taulu grew up in Western Sydney in an boredom is risky in the suburbs,” advantages in Australia than elsewhere. area better known for youth unemploy- says Taulu. e likelihood of graduating is only twice ment than dream careers. Taulu’s young Because he was receiving youth ™- as high for children of academics as for single mother had emigrated from Su- nancial assistance, a digital media course those whose parents only completed man- lawesi to Australia. She couldn’t ™nd work at a trade school (TAFE) was almost free datory schooling. For Americans, the like- and suªered from depression. Programs of charge. He put up with the four-hour lihood is 3.3 times greater, meaning that it designed to help her actually helped her daily commute by train. “I needed a diªer- is signi™cantly harder to break out of the son more. He was already interested in ent environment. Seeing how the rich part family pattern. computers as a teenager, but making a ca- of the city ticked inspired me.” Money was “One opportunity led me to the next, reer out of that seemed impossible. In the still a problem. “I was overquali™ed to like a domino eªect: youth assistance, 12th grade he spent more time caring for stack boxes, but I lacked the experience for trade school and then ™nally university,” his mother than his grades and didn’t other things.” He received an unpaid in- says Garry Taulu, straightening his thin achieve university admission levels. He ternship at a music station and went door-

36 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

to-door as a credit card salesman. At 21 he private colleges and trade schools to create Where Parents’ Income Has was old enough to apply as a senior student more competition for the universities. Little Influence where a portfolio and admission interview Like many Australians, Taulu con- The chart shows how strongly the income of sons correlates with that of their fathers. were more important than good grades. siders Australia’s “founding values” at risk The smaller the bar, the greater the social For him, getting the “Accepted for Bache- if a good education becomes a privilege for mobility between generations. lor of Design Computing” letter was “the the rich in the future. Many also feel that (Source: OECD/D’Addio) best moment of my life.” the soon-to-be introduced co-payment for

Denmark He felt at home at the University of doctor visits is not for the social good, and Australia Sydney, received awards for his work and the same goes for the retirement age being met his current girlfriend. He caught the raised from 65 to 70. As head of the con- Norway eye of a software developer during a se- servative government, Abbott’s stricter Finland Canada mester presentation. “He gave me his card approach to immigration issues – where Sweden and invited me to his company,” notes refugees are sent back to Indonesia by boat Germany Taulu. An hour later, he had a job that he or shipped oª to Papua New Guinea – fur- Spain ™nds exciting to this day. e young soft- ther erodes the image of the fair-go state. France ware designer earns enough to support his United States mother and grandparents. Italy Taulu says, “Getting a chance even “Seeing how the rich after a rough start – that’s just so valuable.” United Kingdom part of the city ticked He is skeptical of the rigid savings plan in 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 the government’s new budget. “Young inspired me.” people from poor circumstances often need a little extra help,” he states from ex- perience. However, Prime Minister Tony e government says that the budget de™- Abbott’s conservative government is seek- cit urgently needs to be consolidated. ing to severely curb this aid, and the gov- Compared to other countries, Australia ernment is planning comprehensive cuts has a relatively small debt problem. A net to reduce Australia’s budget de™cit. Cut- debt of only 12 percent of the GDP lies backs will include unemployment bene™ts signi™cantly below that of other industri- for young people and state subsidies for alized nations. universities. Higher tuition fees seem un- avoidable. e government defends its Credit Cards instead of Food plan by promising stronger support for In her late 20s, Christina Hobbs was the youngest head of a completely diªerent type of rescue operation. She had been working for the United Nations World Food Programme (WFP) in Nepal for al- most three years when the Syria con²ict began. She was promoted by the UN and ²ew to Turkey where hundreds of thou- sands of refugees were ²eeing over the border every day. “It was di¤cult. Many of the exiles in camps were businesspeo- ple, students and teachers. Even Syrians who had worked for the UN came and asked me about jobs. For the ™rst time, we managed to push through credit cards for the refugees instead of food,” recounts the young Australian. “at saved the UN and governments money, while giving people who needed to ™ll endless days something to do. ey could shop and 3 take care of themselves.” Christina Hobbs knew that she was unusually young to

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 37 — On the Move —

be leading at an important coordinating point. But she always moved quickly.

Business Student and Ski Instructor As the second of four children, Christina Hobbs grew up in Canberra in modest conditions. Before school she delivered the Canberra Chronicle; in the evenings she sold ™sh and chips. While studying business and psychology at the Australian National University, she worked as a ski instructor and trained politicians at the parliament ™tness center every morning at 5:00 a.m. “I didn’t suªer just because I didn’t get everything handed to me on a plate. Aside from money, the jobs gave me security and experience. I got to know myself better,” says the 31-year-old. “Maybe I wouldn’t have developed such a strong work ethic otherwise. People who come from a wealthy background perhaps run a greater risk of taking many things for granted.” She quickly paid back her 10,000- 1 dollar student loan and then learned at the UN that things can also go diªerently. “I met quite a few young Americans in Rome who came from Harvard or other “Traditionally we don’t like people who expensive private universities and had only get somewhere because of their con- amassed student loans of 120,000 dollars. nections. Naturally, good contacts or a With that kind of burden on my shoul- rich family can help, but only up to a cer- ders, I probably wouldn’t have volunteered tain point and less than in other places. To for a year with the WFP,” says Hobbs, us, fair go is more important than a name, whose ™rst year in Nepal was ™nanced title or postcode.” by the Australian government’s Youth Ambassadors for Development program. At the end of the year, the UN oªered her a job. Even while still working at her well- paid job with Deloitte Consulting in Syd- ney, her civic engagement was often more important than money. Hobbs was recog- nized by Deloitte as the “New South Wales’ Young Businesswoman of the Year” while also heading up Unifem, a UN fund 2 for young women, and developing strate- gies for the Make Poverty History cam- paign. Julica Jungehülsing has lived in Sydney as a Hobbs’ passion for unpaid engage- freelance journalist since 2001. Her reports from ment is typical. According to the OECD Australia, New Zealand and other countries Better Life Index, Australians spend six in the South Paci™c have appeared in publications including Stern, GEO Saison and Die Zeit. minutes a day on volunteering, two min- utes more than the OECD average. Hobbs Currency: One Australian dollar is equal to still considers her society egalitarian. around 0.8 Swiss francs.

38 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 1 — Australia as a model of success: 22 years of growth (photo: downtown Sydney).

2 — Witness to history: Statue of Captain Arthur Phillip (1738–1814), discoverer of Sydney Harbor.

3 — Engagement instead of paycheck: Christina Hobbs was “Businesswoman of the Year” and volunteers for the UN.

3

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 39 — On the Move —

A Short History of Navigation

Measuring the World Navigation software has become a centerpiece of modern communication. For users, it means walking a tightrope between convenience and Landmarks — Humans have always used being constantly monitored. landmarks (mountains, rivers, vegetation) to orient themselves. By Steªan Heuer

Anyone interested in the future of route about tra¤c patterns. ey then plan and planning should check out a prototype even allocate their funds accordingly. called “Predictive User Experience” from Developers of early navigation sys- Mercedes-Benz. is new system “ob- tems could never have imagined how this serves” drivers and passengers and begins constant position pinpointing would to think independently the moment a evolve into functions that relieve humans driver is behind the wheel. e car knows and machines of so many daily tasks. For the day of the week, the weather and traf- position data to really conquer the market, ™c situation and where the driver is most several trends had to come together, in- likely to go depending on the time of day. cluding satellite-driven GPS systems and e navigation system displays the cur- smartphones. rent and best route because it has learned, for example, that Friday afternoon at Navigation systems expand reality 5 p.m. this driver heads to the grocery Early developers would barely recognize Wind and waves — An understanding of the cur- store, then to his favorite restaurant and today’s navigation software landscape. rents can aid in navigation. People have been then home. Major suppliers, such as the Dutch com- using this knowledge since the 4th century B.C. And the system can do even more. pany TomTom or the American company Daimler engineers have created an app for Navteq, which has been part of Nokia Google Glass wearable technology that since 2007, are feeling the pressure from can navigate right down to the last meter. technology giants like Google and Apple, As soon as the driver exits the car, the rest or have now been relegated to the status of of the route is transferred to Google Glass. suppliers. California-based technology “An awareness of where and how I move companies understood that simple maps today is part of the driving experience,” would have to come with more and more says research director of Daimler North information to attract drivers and pedes- America Johann Jungwirth. trians to the expanded reality on their dis- It is only a question of time until play screens. these infotainment features are ready for Navigation has become a standard standard production. Navigation is al- no-cost feature that customers expect; they ready available in this “Age of Context” as only notice it when it doesn’t work. ey separate components. Smartphones know do, however, pay for it in a diªerent way – where their owners live and work and can by disclosing their comings and goings, warn the driver without being asked that which advertisers, government security the trip to the next destination will take agencies and city planners want to analyze. Lighthouses and buoys — Thanks to electricity longer than usual. City administrators use According to the most recent Mobil- and gas, illuminated navigation aids became location data generated non-stop by navi- ity Report from network equipment sup- standard at the beginning of the 20th century. gation systems and mobile phones to learn plier Ericsson, there were 6.8 billion

40 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photos: Craig Stan™ll / Flickr; shannonstent / iStockphoto; Nerthuz / iStockphoto — On the Move —

Looking at the heavens — The ancient Ocean and land maps — Often brilliantly Plumb line — A metal bell smeared with suet Greeks used the constellations such as the illustrated, but inaccurate, maps have been helped the Phoenicians and Carthaginians Little Dipper or Orion to navigate. in use since the 6th century B.C. measure water depth in the 5th century B.C.

Compass — Navigation using magnetic force Astrolabe — The first astronomical Sextant — Thanks to Greenwich Mean Time, was developed in the 11th century in China and computer dated back to the 13th century. sailors have been able to determine longitude spread throughout the Middle and Far East. since Isaac Newton’s invention in 1700.

Ship’s radar — The first radar device was GPS — The navigation standard that hundreds Auto navigation — The first prototype was installed in a US Navy ship in 1937. of millions of devices rely on has been in opera- introduced in Hanover in 1985. Commercial tion since 1985, but it is prone to disruption. models were ready for production in 1990.

Photos: NASA; ilbusca / iStockphoto; LACMA / Wikimedia; DNY59 / iStockphoto; Marie-Lan Nguyen / Wikimedia; bbuong / iStockphoto; fountain of useless info / iStockphoto; NASA; danp68 / iStockphoto Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 41 — On the Move —

mobile devices on the market at the end of City Lab at MIT, talks about the heart- the equivalent of an illegal remote search March 2014. Using a GPS chip, these de- beat of a city. “We produce as much data of someone’s home. vices are constantly comparing users’ posi- every few days as humans have produced Border patrols are using mobile tions with mobile network radio towers. since the beginning of time. When we can phone data to identify suspicious vehicles Over a period of time, these pieces of the gather, analyze and share this informa- on the eastern borders of the EU. Anyone puzzle create an image of the movement of tion, it makes it easier to improve the driving over the legal 130 km/h speed millions of people that helps Google, for quality of life in cities,” he says. Ratti be- limit will ™nd themselves in an automatic example, calculate tra¤c ²ow and esti- lieves mobile phones are the most import- dragnet investigation and will be checked. mated travel times in its map services. ant sensor and building block of these Even if start and end destinations communities. “e telephone has opened are not recorded, navigational data is re- Recording Beaches and Mountain Trails up our environment. We are ™nally build- vealing. is is what researchers at Rut- Nowadays, two recording methods sup- ing a city operating system, because mod- gers University in New Jersey discovered port professional navigation. First, teams ern cities are nothing more than huge when they closely examined auto insurers of experts around the world take to the open-air computers.” who are calculating personal car insur- road in their cars to drive and update their Harold Goddijn, CEO of TomTom, ance policies using trackers installed in maps. Every construction site and every shares this view. “We know a lot about vehicles. Anyone who simply analyses the street name has to be entered. According to road networks, in many cases, even more starting point of a car trip with time- Michael Halbherr, CEO of Nokia’s newly coded speed measurements has a high created spin-oª HERE, a reasonable loca- probability of determining the precise tion service needs “four sixes”: six years, “Modern cities are route due to the fact that cars drive straight 6000 people, 6 billion dollars in start-up and turn right or left at a certain speed. So capital and another 600 million dollars an- nothing more than huge an insurance company would be able to nually to keep its maps up to date. open-air computers.” obtain a signi™cant movement pro™le Google cars have already become a without any access to a GPS or mobile bone of contention in some countries be- phone data. cause it is no longer possible to separate than government agencies,” he said in an Even before these questions con- the useful map information from the com- interview. TomTom is one of several com- cerning data protection and privacy rights prehensive photographing of private panies that loan their anonymized data re- have been clari™ed, navigation software is homes, including recording individual cords to third parties. “is makes it easier already steering toward new challenges. WLAN networks. In the meantime, to plan, identify tra¤c jams and to deter- ere is a new major growth market called Google is even gathering info on beaches mine whether we should put in a new indoor navigation, which refers to precise and hiking trails using cameras mounted street,” adds Goddijn. measuring and tracking of pedestrians on backpacks. inside buildings down to the last meter. e second method mapping services Is Big Brother Watching You? Here, too, navigation is immediately use is the input they get from end custom- So the biggest problems of modern navi- touching oª a debate. ose who want the ers. For example, Nokia uses its user activ- gation services have to do with the possi- convenience of a fascinating high-tech ity data to generate tra¤c forecasts. In bility, theoretically, of Big Brother looking tool to help them ™nd their way around an 2013, Google purchased Israeli company over the shoulder of everyone on the road. airport terminal or shopping mall must Waze, which relies on crowdsourcing for Even if every supplier – including the ma- accept the fact that retailers, mobile phone navigation. Like a PacMan game, the jor mobile network operators – assures us suppliers and technology companies are Waze app gobbles up any already recorded that they make their data available to third going to follow them every step of the way. or completely new routes, thus building parties only in anonymized form, routes As navigation becomes more and more so- successive and very up-to-date maps. is can be associated with individual people phisticated it can do more and more. e app can also import real-time information relatively quickly. question remains, how much more do we about road obstacles, accidents and gas sta- Two new studies prove this. Colum- really want. tions. But the system only works when bia University computer scientist Steven there is a critical mass of users in the coun- Bellovin ™gured out that it takes only one try to supply a su¤cient volume of data. By week to identify a person based on posi- the middle of last year, this app had about tioning data. Bundled with commutes to 50 million users in 13 countries. work, route queries for medical practices, City planners are aware of the value retailers or private addresses over a period of continuous incoming data from hun- of several days, this information provides Ste‡an Heuer is the US correspondent for dreds of millions of users. Carlo Ratti, a an unforeseen view into a user’s private the German business magazine “brand eins” and researcher who heads the SENSEable life. In the eyes of this researcher, this is is a published author.

42 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

Out of Africa Seven long years by foot, approximately 34,000 kilometers, across three continents – from Ethiopia to Tierra del Fuego. A reporter follows the trail of modern humans, as they migrated from Africa 60,000 years ago and settled the world.

By Paul Salopek

“I am on a journey.” e author Paul Salopek (with hat) in the Afar Desert in northeastern Ethiopia.

Walking is falling forward. Each step we is remains by far our greatest voyage. exploded, in just 2,500 generations, a geo- take is an arrested plunge, a collapse Because the early Homo sapiens who ™rst logical heartbeat, to the remotest habitable averted, a disaster braked. In this way, to roamed beyond the mother continent – fringe of the globe. walk becomes an act of faith. We perform these pioneer nomads numbered, in total, Millennia behind, I follow. it daily: a two-beat miracle – a holding on as few as a couple of hundred people – also and letting go. For the next seven years, I bequeathed us the subtlest qualities we At Five Kilometers an Hour will plummet across the world. now associate with being fully human: Using fossil evidence and the burgeoning I am on a journey. I am in pursuit of complex language, abstract thinking, a science of “genography” – a ™eld that sifts an idea, a story, a chimera, perhaps a folly. compulsion to make art, a genius for tech- the DNA of living populations for muta- I am chasing ghosts. Starting in humani- nological innovation, and the continuum tions useful in tracking ancient diasporas ty’s birthplace in the Great Rift Valley of of today’s many races. We know so little – I will walk north from Africa into the East Africa, I am retracing, on foot, the about them. ey straddled the strait Middle East. From there my antique route pathways of the ancestors who ™rst discov- called Bab el Mandeb – the “gate of grief” leads eastward across the vast gravel plains ered the Earth at least 60,000 years ago. that cleaves Africa from Arabia – and then of Asia to China, then north again into

Photo: John Stanmeyer / VII Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 43 — On the Move —

The contours of the planet: Out of the mint blue shadows of Siberia. From 33,800 km at the Russia I will hop on a ship to Alaska and human pace inch down the western coast of the New of five World to wind-smeared Tierra del Fuego, kilometers an hour. our species’ last new continental horizon. I Eden Walk will walk 33,800 kilometers. 1,000 km If you ask, I will tell you that I have Nabi embarked on this project, which I’m call- Salih Dushanbe, Jerusalem Tajikistan ing the Out of Eden Walk, for many rea - Dharamsala, Near El Quweira India sons. To relearn the contours of our planet at the human pace of ™ve kilometers an hour. To slow down. To think. To write.

To render current events as a form of pil- Wadi al Marataja grimage. I walk to remember. e trails scuªed through the Ethio- Yúnnán, pian desert are possibly the oldest human Jeddah 10° 17' 12" N, 40° 31' 55" E China marks in the world. People walk them still – the hungr y, the poor, the climate stricken, men and women sleepwalking away from Near Afar war. Nearly a billion people are on the move Oª We Go! today across the Earth. We are living through the greatest Galafi Herto Bouri, Ethiopia, January 22, 2013 — “Where are you mass migration our species has ever Herto Bouri walking?” the Afar pastoralists ask. “North. To Djibouti.” known. In Djibouti, the African migrants (We do not say Tierra del Fuego. It is much too far away – it is stood waving cell phones on trash-strewn meaningless.) “Are you crazy? Are you sick?” In reply, Mo- beaches at night. ey were trying to get a hamed Elema Hessan – wiry and energetic, a charming rogue, cheap signal from neighboring Somalia. I my guide and protector through the blistering Afar Triangle heard them murmur: Oslo, Melbourne, – doubles over and laughs. He leads our micro-caravan: two Minnesota. After 600 centuries, we were skinny camels. I have listened to still seeking guidance, even rescue, from his guªaw many times already. those who had walked before. is project is, to him, a punch line – a cosmic joke. To walk for seven years! Across three continents! He enjoys the absur- dity of it. It’s ™tting. Especially given our ridiculous launch. e Afar Triangle in north- “Where are you going?” In the Afar Triangle. east Ethiopia is dreaded as a waterless moonscape. Temperatures of 50° C. Salt pans so bright they burn out the eyes. Yet today it rained. Elema and I have no waterproof tents. We have an Ethiopian ²ag, which Elema wraps himself in as he walks. We have found and rented two camels. We plod across an acacia plain darkened to the color of chocolate by the warm raindrops. After 20 kilometers, Elema already asks to turn back. He forgot his new walking shoes from America. And his ²ashlight. And his hat and the cell phone. So he hitches a ride from our ™rst camp to his village to retrieve these vital items. And now he has jogged all the way back to catch up. He complains, laughing, of crotch rash.

e walking route through the world.

44 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photos: Paul Salopek (2) — On the Move —

The route leads across the vast Amur River gravel plains between Russia of Asia and China to China, and then into Siberia.

ri²e is nearly indestruc tible, it continues to resurface, to sicken, to enfeeble the rule of law. In Mozambique many of these guns were collected and melted 11° 36' 17" N, 41° 13' 35" E down at extra ordinary costs. (Some were shaped by arti- sans into monuments.) In Sierra Leone, peace- Africa and the keepers wished to dump them into the sea – but environ- AK-47 mentalists objected. So they laboriously blew them up A simple killing machine: the Kalashnikov. Near Afar, Ethiopia, February 15, 2013 — Africa and and buried the fragments. the AK-47 were synonyms for decades for many outsiders: Even so, some people dug up the AK shards and re-used them. a chaotic continent, armed to the teeth, sunken in Africa grows stronger. But it can still relapse from the anarchy or enchained by police states. And one weapon pox of the gun. made that possible – the Kalashnikov. What is the story of this weapon in Africa? e AK-47, an automatic ri²e, is a crude but eªective killing machine 11° 42' 51" N, 41° 50' 37" E that (depending on the model) consists of a few dozen moving parts. It weighs just under 5 kilos. It’s easy to operate (hence the child soldiers). At least 70 million of the weapons have been sold worldwide – with several million of these Eternity at Walking Speed in Africa. In the desolate Afar Triangle of Ethiopia, where warrior Gala“, Djibouti, March 30, 2013 — Walking the world traditions of cattle raiding endure, the Russian-designed means learning to read the landscape with your whole ri²e is everywhere. It is a brutal symbol of power, independence body, and with your skin not merely your eyes – sensing feed and control in a very tough neighborhood. Walking through for the camels in a thorn patch, the dust in the scent of the the arid region, I have seen it in the hands of census takers, wind and, of course precious water in the folds of the land: county administrators, prepubescent goat herders, and milky- a limbic memory of great power. It means watching eternity eyed old men. pass by at walking pace and vaguely understanding that Most recently, near the village of Det Behari, a teenage you’re still moving too fast, even at ™ve kilometers per hour. boy, a child of 15 or 16, stepped in front of our camel cara- van. He toted an AK with a ™xed bayonet. But he meant no harm. He simply wished to alert us of the presence of rival Issa 21° 28' 9" N, 39° 10' 11" E nomads. “Bad people,” he warned, pointing his gun to the south, across the green thread of the Awash River, where I imagined a young Issa boy standing similarly armed, rendering the same unthinking verdict on the Afar. e First 100,000 Steps Africa is on the ascendant. It is home to six of the ten fastest-growing economies in the world. Its people are just Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, July 9, 2013 — Sailing on a camel boat beginning to savor the bene™ts of the digital and green from Africa to Jeddah, Saudi Arabia’s biggest commercial port, revolutions. Despite its old and shallow stereotype of instabil- I plunge into a delirium of contrasts – from rural to urban, ity, the continent is more peaceful today than any time from poor to rich, from slow to fast, from landscapes gripped since decolonization. And yet ... its demon gun persists. by human feet to ones subdued by the wheel. Why? Jeddah is the world walk’s ™rst urban traverse. Back Reinfection. in Djibouti, I arrived in the capital by ferryboat and navigated East and West funneled countless AKs into the conti- that city’s warren of streets by foot and minibus. In Jeddah, nent during the Cold War. Countries such as China and a world-class metropolis of three million, I plod straight Ukraine continue to hawk their stockpiles here even today. through: more than 90 kilometers of sidewalks before reaching (e biggest arms salesman on the globe, by a long shot, desert sand. Unexpectedly, stretches of this booming, is the United States – but not to Africa.) And because the simmering metropolis recall the loneliest stretches of the

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 45 — On the Move —

Anchorage, Alaska 29° 42' 56" N, 35° 17' 14" E

From Alaska, the route leads along the west coast of the new Tomatoes world to Tier- ra del Fuego, Near El Quweira, Jordan, January 9, 2014 — We walk out the destination of the desert and come to where the Earth rises and falls of the trip. Danakil Depression. beneath our footsteps in long, regular waves, like corduroy – Fill your water bottles. ™elds of plowed sand. e hills of Wadi Rum fade in iron- Look both ways. e bearing Columbus, colored light. Dusk is falling. It grows colder by the minute. New Mexico is due north – into the A path leads through the thickening dark to tents that glow scalding heart of the Hejaz. yellowly from within, like belled medusas adrift in a sun- less sea. We tether our two cargo mules to large stones. We approach the ™rst tent. 24° 38' 36" N, 37° 35' 26" E “Sala’am aleukum,” calls Hamoudi Enwaje’ al Bedul, my guide. e tent, which had been noisy with voices, falls silent. A man throws back the ²ap, and after an exchange in Arabic that lasts no longer Arabian Coªee than 30 seconds, he waves us in. Fifteen Wadi al Marataja, Saudi Arabia, October 25, 2013 — people sit inside atop “ey drank coªee every Monday and Friday eve, putting it foam mattresses. A in a large vessel made of red clay. eir leader ladled it out with sad-faced woman a small dipper and gave it to them to drink, passing it to layered in sweaters the right, while they recited one of their usual formulas, mostly – blue tribal tattoos “La illaha il’Allah …” – Ibn ’Abd al-Ghaar, 16th-century dot each of her wrin- Arab writer. kled cheeks, dot her Young tomato picker from Syria. You walk down the wadi 20 kilometers pulling a camel chin – loads more on a rope. Under a sun that carves a slot in your head. sticks into a small woodstove. She beckons us to sit near the You see white tents pitched under a kopje. You see heat, in a circle of staring, wild-haired children. She pours us women running to hide inside the tents. ey are Bedouins, glasses of syrupy tea. She serves us a platter of fresh tomatoes, the women and their families, diehards who resist the comfort pickled green tomatoes, fried broccoli. of towns. Up in the burning rimrock lurk a few wolves. “ere is no meat,” the man apologizes. “Here, we only ey, too, are the last of their kind. dream of chicken.” Everyone in the tent laughs. ey are is is what you will tomato pickers. ey are Bedouins from Syria. All of the remember: tomato pickers came from the same Syrian province, from Not the operatic villages near the ancient city of Hamāh. In 1982, the country’s space. Not the heat. Not the then dictator – Al-Bashar’s father – leveled the city during sharp peaks chiseled a previous uprising. Hamāh fell to Tamerlane in 1400. It fell like barren Matterhorns, to Crusaders in 1108 and before that to Muslim armies in mountains like fangs, the seventh century. Almost 3,000 years ago, an Assyrian beacons that pilgrims once conqueror named Sargon II captured Hamāh and ²ayed alive used to guide them toward its king. We walk on. Coªee by the ™re with the Bedouins. Mecca. No. It is the tiny white porcelain cups couched in the men’s palms. Polite, watchful men. Hands thickened with calluses. And the hot 31° 46' 03" N, 35° 13' 39" E disc of liquid within the cups – a decoction the Arab mystics invented seven centuries ago: pale green, the improbable color of sea ice. A liquid’s softness amid so much that is hard. How it pulls you up from the rug. How it re-laces your boots. Jerusalem How it takes you by the hand and leads you out into the desert to walk again. Checkpoint Bethlehem, West Bank, May 20, 2014 — e structure can be seen by satellite. It rises eight meters high. It is

Destination Tierra del Fuego, Chile

46 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photos: Paul Salopek (4) — On the Move —

made of concrete. Its surface is crusted with gra¤ti – with Bassam Almohor. Guides and pilgrims. I think of sanctuary. signs and curses, with poems and taunts, with cries – with I think of the crossroads of the world. Jerusalem. Yerushalayim. portents. To see its top, while you stand at its foot, you must Al Quds. We’ve all been there. crane your neck and squint up at the sky. It runs crookedly through the city – perhaps it rolls on forever. “ey put up the wall here in one single day in 2003,” 32° 01' 0" N, 35° 7' 29" E Claire Anastas tells me. She is a lifelong resident of Bethle- hem. “e children went to school in the morning, and when they came back they found the house surrounded.” Anastas refers to the famous “Separation Barrier” erected Bang! by Israel to contain the violence of the Second Intifada. Government surveyors plotted its construction right through Nabi Salih, West Bank, July 7, 2014 — We turn the corner of Anastas’s living room. Anastas, a Christian shopkeeper, the road when the ™rst round whips in. It kicks up dust one refused to budge. So the engineers built the barrier around her. yard in front of Bassam Almohor. He stops walking. “We’re Her home is now encircled on three sides by towering slabs being shot at,” my guide says. His voice is aggrieved. “at was of concrete. Her shop, which is nestled on the ™rst ²oor of her a bullet.” house, sells small, hand-carved Christmas mangers. It was, to be precise, a rubber bullet. Or, more exactly Each contains a carved Mary and Joseph. ey lean over a still: a rubber-coated bullet, a slug of steel dipped in baby Jesus. A toy Separation Barrier runs through the manger. hard plastic. e term “rubber bullet” connotes non-lethality, Unlike the real thing, in the souvenirs the wall is easily harmlessness, a comical form of deterrence – a bouncing ball, removable. a children’s toy, a pea-shooter. Yet anyone who has been struck My guide Bassam Almohor and I walk through the by these projectiles knows diªerently. Rubber-coated, Bethlehem checkpoint. metal-cored bullets can ²atten people with the force of a “You!” swung baseball bat. ey can kill at close range. e source of e voice buzzes over an intercom. I am standing next this particular rubber bullet: the Israel Defense Force, the IDF. to a metal detector. No human being is visible. Puzzled, I look Nabi Salih: a clutch of stucco houses clinging to a around. sun-hammered hill in the West Bank. Clashes between local “Yes, you!” Palestinians and the Israeli army are common here. In fact, “Where are they are predictable. Every Friday, like clockwork, a ritual you?” I say. “I can’t see begins. After midday prayers, scores of civilians – men you.” and women, old and young – march, chanting, out of the “Behind you! village mosque. e Israeli army is waiting. Platoons of soldiers Behind the glass! block the crowd’s progress. A provocation occurs. A slur. A What is in the pack?” shove. And the dance of violence starts. From the Palestinian “Laptop, video side: a hail of rocks ²ung by boys and young men armed with camera, audio recorder, slingshots. From the Israelis: rubber bullets, teargas canisters, satellite phone ... ” stun grenades and, sometimes, a high-pressure stream of “Where do you e wall in Jerusalem. “skunk water,” a stinking chemical brew sprayed from a police come from?” truck. “Ethiopia.” “No! Where do you come from?” “United States.” “Welcome to Israel.” Two friends meet us on the other side. Evan and Christa: a language student and a journalist. ey walk us into Jerusalem. We dodge tra¤c on a wide boulevard. We climb urban Paul Salopek is a reporter and two-time Pulitzer Prize winner, as well as winner of other highly- hills, past an old kibbutz that has evolved into a resort. We regarded journalism awards. Salopek was born in photograph ourselves at the Promenade that overlooks the Old 1962 in California and grew up in Mexico. He City. Domed. Steepled. Walled. A city of hills. Its pale stones worked as a foreign correspondent for the Chicago the color of early morning clouds. It glows and glows. A city Tribune and National Geographic in Africa, the Middle East, Central Asia and Latin America. that conjures birds, ²ight. e biologist has been walking the trail of Alone later that afternoon, I drop my pack inside an modern humans since January 2013 and reporting on his journey in his blog empty, borrowed apartment. I stand in its dim spaces. at outofedenwalk.nationalgeographic.com. I blink in silence at its books, at its potted plants, at the elec- His ™rst book about the journey, “A Walk through Time,” will be published in 2016. Partners for the project include National Geographic, the Knight tric kettle. I splay my sunburned hands on the cold kitchen Foundation, the Pulitzer Center and the Nieman Foundation (Harvard). counter. Elema Hessan. Mohamad Banounah. Ali al Harbi. Photographer John Stanmeyer, who is accompanying Salopek, is the winner Awad Omran. Hamoudi Enwaje’ al Bedul. And now, of the Robert Capa Award and was named Photographer of the Year.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 47 — On the Move —

Getting 1849 — 1 month or more Steamship and transport over the Isthmus of Panama There Faster Better, — 150 years ago, a package traveling from New York to San Francisco took Faster, over a month to arrive, with a detour through Panama – today an express delivery goes by plane and travels coast Cheaper to coast in a matter of hours. 1858 — 30 to 35 days Railroad and stagecoach The United States Postal Service In the last hundred years, global mobility has risen sharply and economic growth has accelerated. A three- 1860 — 13 to 14 days minute telephone call Railroad and Pony Express (a mail delivery service using courier riders on horseback) to the US, for example, once would have 1869 — 7 days, 2 hours cost 1,200 Swiss francs Transcontinental railroad (1931), today it costs 1900 — 4 days, 10 hours 40 centimes. Here are Transcontinental railroad

1906 — 3 days, 18 hours 15 graphics to illustrate Direct, transcontinental railroad how quickly today’s 1921 — 3 days, 11 hours Airplane and railroad world turns. By Ole Häntzschel (infographics) 1924 — 1 day, 10 hours, 20 minutes and Simon Brunner (content) Transcontinental air mail

2006 — 6 to 7 hours Airplane

120

1965: 400 1995: Getting There Cheaper: Freight

— 1985: 2005: 90 Shipping goods is becoming ever 1975:

more aªordable, as indicated by airline 1955: 1,210

180 revenue per transported ton and 300 kilometer (index = 100 in the year 2000). International Air Transport Association, World Air Transport Statistics

48 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

Getting There Cheaper: Passengers ZRH — ZRH Flight costs plummeted in the middle of the last century. A round trip ²ight from NYC NYC Zurich to New York was ™ve times cheaper in 1990 than in 1950 (real prices). Swissair – “1950s Syndrome: The Path to a ZRH Consumerist Society” by Christian Pfister (editor) 1960 ZRH 1950 NYC NYC ZRH 1,800 1980 NYC 2,650 400 1990 CHF CHF 950 450 CHF CHF CHF

Telephone Calls Become Affordable — While a long-distance call in the 1980s Year: 1931 was still considered a luxury, today CHF: 1,197 it makes almost no diªerence whether you have New York on the line, or Locarno. Here are the real prices for a three-minute telephone call from 1941 663 Switzerland to the US. PTT Archive; Swisscom; One Hundred Years of Electric Communications in Switzerland 1852–1952, 1952 GD PTT (editor); adjusted for inflation using the 235 CPI inflation calculator 1961 215 1974 66 1980 2014 29 0.4

And Everyone Has a Telephone — With the lower connection costs, the telephone has found its way into the Swiss living room. However, the number of telephone connections has been declining since 1997 because the home telephone is being replaced by the cell phone.

1890 1910 1930 1950 1970 1990 2010 9,000 67,640 215,135 574,510 1,945,168 3,942,701 3,261,186

) (incl. ISDN nnections in Switzerland Telephone co One Hundred Years of Electric Communications in Switzerland; 1882 1900 1920 1940 1960 1980 2000 Federal Office for Communi- 867 38,000 115,909 310,182 1,090,975 2,839,461 4,108,216 cations (from 1990)

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 49 — On the Move —

What We Drive — We travel more kilometers by car than by any other mode of transportation – which cars have been global bestsellers so far? And which ones are the current bestsellers in Switzerland? Global: Toyota, 247wallst.com / Switzerland: ASTRA/MOFIS/auto-schweiz

The most globally popular cars of all time The most popular cars in Switzerland, 2014 (January–May)

1 2 3 1 2 3 Toyota Corolla Ford-F-Serie VW Golf VW Golf Škoda Octavia VW Tiguan > 40 million > 35 million > 27.5 million 5,059 4,427 2,041

Traffic fatalities in Switzerland

1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 1,303 1,694 1,246 954 592 327

Cars

1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 509,279 1,383,204 2,246,752 2,985,397 3,545,247 4,075,825 More Cars, Fewer Casualties Population — Fatal tra¤c accidents have declined sharply – although more and more cars are on the road in Switzerland and the population is growing steadily. Swiss Federal Statistical Office

1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 5,360,000 6,193,000 6,335,000 6,751,000 7,204,000 7,870,000

50 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

Your Own Four Wheels — e car dominates the commute; On foot 9.5 % most Swiss use it as their main method of transportation to get to work. Swiss Federal Statistical Office

Bike 6.5 % Motorcycle 2 .0 %

Bus 13.5 % Car 52.5 %

Rail 16.0 %

Where We Don’t Want to Be on the Road Baden-Brugg Winterthur 65.9 % 68.2 % — Zurich e population is growing and 100.0 % becoming ever more mobile, Basel and inevitably, roads are becoming 60.4 % more and more congested. Where Aarau the country stands still rather 55.1 % Lenzburg Wetzikon- than moving every morning 54.5 % Pfäffikon Zug 53.0 % (the 20 worst tra¤c congestion Biel/Bienne 65.8 % regions on a weekday 57.6 % morning, Lucerne Neuchâtel Burgdorf 54.0 % Zurich = 100 %). 53.8 % 58.1 % Credit Suisse Bern 72.6 % Yverdon-les-Bains 55.4 % Fribourg 67.2 %

Lausanne Bellinzona 79.5 % 53.7 % Vevey-Montreux 56.1 %

Geneva 95.7 %

Lugano 66.7 %

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 51 — On the Move —

Wing-to-body fairing Rear fuselage Made in: US US Tail fin Horizontal stabilizer US The World Italy — Fixed From the simple wristwatch to Wing Japan trailing edges the Boeing Dreamliner 787: Japan Many supply chains today span the globe. The Boeing Company, Reuters

Passenger entry door France

Forward fuselage Main landing gear US wheel well Japan

Movable trailing edges US/Canada/Australia

Lithium-ion Center batteries wing box Japan Japan Landing gear Forward Central Engine Engine Fixed and Wing tip structure fuselage fuselage nacelle US/UK movable Korea France Japan Italy US leading edges US

1 Day 1: Capture North Sea 1 2 2 4 Who Does What, Day 1: Preservation Büsum, Germany 5

Where 3 — Day 4: Cleaning, peeling Tétouan, Morocco Value chains are also becoming more international, as they follow the costs 4 Day 8: Processing, of the production locations. Shrimp packaging are caught in the North Sea, peeled in Zoutkamp, Morocco, packed in the Netherlands Netherlands and sold in Germany. 5 Day 9: Sold ZDF, Bild Supermarket, 3 Germany

Quiz — Which train network belongs to which country? SBB, DB, russianrail.com, Wikipedia, Federal Agency for Cartography and Geodesy, seat61 (in each case, the major train lines)

1 2 3 4

52 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

In and out — Global trade in goods is bigger than ever before. Asia, Europe and the US are the world’s leading import and export regions, while Africa 1 50 250 500 1,000 and Latin America take a back seat (for now). billion USD billion USD billion USD billion USD billion USD World Trade Organization, International Trade Statistics 2013

From From From From Central From From From North CIS the Middle and South Europe Africa Asia America countries East America

To To To To Central To To To North CIS the Middle and South Europe Africa Asia America countries East America

5 6 7 1. Australia, 2. Germany, 3. France, 4. Japan, 5. Russia, 6. Switzerland, 7. US 7. Switzerland, 6. Russia, 5. Japan, 4. France, 3. Germany, 2. Australia, 1.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 53 — On the Move —

How Much Ground We Cover — On average, each person in Switzerland covers over 35 kilometers per day, with men being more mobile than women (domestic travel only). A resident of Switzerland travels a total of 20,500 31.1 kilometers per year, somewhat further than the distance between Switzerland km 36.7 and New Zealand (domestic and foreign travel). 42.5 Women km Swiss Federal Statistical Office km Total

Men

Work 24.3 %

Other Education 5.7 % 5.4 % Why We Travel — We travel further in our free time than we do for work (domestic trips only – reasons for travel as a percentage of the daily distance traveled). Swiss Federal Statistical Office Service and Shopping accompanying 12.8 % trips 4.8 %

Free time Business trips 40.2 % 6.8 %

54 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

Employment and income open up pathways out of poverty and real opportunities for the future.

For more than 50 years Swisscontact has been creating ideal conditions for entrepreneurship in structurally-challenged regions. Thanks to the support from Credit Suisse and by promoting a competitive private sector committed to social and environmentally-friendly principles, Swisscontact is opening up pathways out of poverty for millions of disad- vantaged people.

Swisscontact works in 27 countries implementing over 100 projects in the areas of skills development, SME promotion, fi nancial services, and re- source effi ciency in order to promote economic stability in developing coun- Swisscontact tries. Swiss Foundation for Technical Cooperation Doing the right thing together. Support people with entrepreneurial spirit. www.swisscontact.org

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 55

Ins_Beschäftigung_e.indd 1 16.06.14 10:00 — On the Move —

Working Hard to Save the World He revolutionized payment processes on the internet with PayPal, now his electric Tesla car is revolutionizing the way we drive. Next, he wants to send people to Mars. Who is Elon Musk?

By Alix Sharkey Elon Musk

–e 42-year old billionaire and industrialist is sharp During his ten-second cameo role in the and direct, a mixture Hol ly wood  lm “Iron Man 2,” Elon Musk says: “I’ve got an idea for an electric jet.” of audacity, Tony Stark – Iron Man’s alter ego – an- madness and swers: “You do? We’ll make it happen.” vision. According to director and screen- play writer Jon Favreau, the character of Tony Stark, company owner, inventor and playboy, played by Robert Downey Jr., is loosely based on Elon Musk. –e real bil- lionaire and industrialist likes to play down this comparison (“I have ve kids and spend my weekends at Disneyland.”), yet the concept of an electric jet is no Hol- lywood fantasy. In answer to the question of what he would create if he did not al- ready own two multi-billion-dollar com- panies, the CEO of Tesla Motors and SpaceX says, “A supersonic electric jet with vertical takeož and landing capabil- ity. It would be the ultimate form of trans- port: faster, quieter, and environmentally friendlier than today’s planes. It would be able to land in the city, rather than an air- port in the suburbs.” One of Musk’s other dreams is the Hyperloop – a 1,200 kph, electricity- driven transport system between Los Angeles and San Francisco that he wants to build for a tenth of the 60 billion dol- lars that a high-speed rail link, which has been under negotiation in California for years, would cost. But his most ambitious goal is to send people to Mars – and to do it before 2035. It is this wild and visionary imagi- nation, in addition to his willingness to take risks with his own money and his enormous entrepreneurial spirit, which makes Elon Musk such a fascinating gure. At the turn of the millennium,

56 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Benjamin Lowy / Contour by Getty Images — On the Move —

ket, the automobile industry will be turned on its head with electric drives set to become more available to the masses. Tesla Along the highways and byways of Europe and America, Tesla is al- A car driven ready busy building a network of super- by the power outlet chargers in order to increase driving range. –ese supercharging stations are has long been the dream of environmentalists. able to charge the batteries faster than Now it could turn conventional power outlets. Currently, the industry on Tesla operates 94 superchargers in Amer- its head. ica and 20 in Europe – with one located in Lully, in the Swiss canton of Fribourg.

Charitable, or Just Egotistical? Today, Tesla supplies powertrain technol- ogy to its investors Toyota and Daimler, but it also wants to share its supercharging stations with rival electric car manufac- turers, as long as they help expand the network. Musk recently announced that Tesla will forego ling patents to encour- age more electric cars on the market. “With annual new vehicle production ap- Musk revived the idea of space explora- proaching 100 million per year and the tion and, with Tesla Motors, ushered in global ©eet at some two billion cars,” says the era of the electric car. to 36 hours to charge using a normal Musk, “our true competition is the enor- power outlet. Yet even the negative re- mous ©ood of gasoline cars. It is impossi- Elegance through Electricity ports on the Tesla, which has been known ble for Tesla to build electric cars fast A car driven by power from the outlet has to catch re after a crash, could not enough to address the carbon crisis. We long been the dream of environmental- dampen the euphoria concerning the believe that applying open-source philos- ists. Now it is about to become part of our electric car. ophy to our patents will strengthen rather everyday experience. Tesla is among the Over 31,500 units have been sold than diminish Tesla’s position.” pioneers in this eld. Its cars are cleaner, since it was launched on the market last more elegant, more e®cient and sexier year. –e Tesla Model S holds 24 percent than gasoline-driven cars – and they of- of the still-nascent electric car market and “Applying open-source ten accelerate faster. is the second most successful model in Eu- Review and ratings magazine Con- rope after the Nissan Leaf. Between Janu- philosophy to our sumer Reports has named the Tesla ary and May 2014, 191 Tesla S models Model S the “best car that we have ever were sold in Switzerland, more than twice patents will strengthen tested” and given it 99 points out of 100. as many as the Porsche Panamera S (86) Tesla’s position.” “With its blistering acceleration, ra- and Audi A7 (84). Not bad for a luxury car zor-sharp handling, versatile cabin and that, depending on the model, costs be- its ultra-quiet, zero-emission driving ex- tween 72,000 and 120,000 Swiss francs. Critics, however, suggest that this im- perience, the Tesla Model S is a glimpse Tesla has also already unveiled a prototype pressive move, which has garnered so into a future where cars and computers of the next model, the Tesla X, a seven- much media attention around the world, coexist in seamless harmony.” Automo- seater SUV with falcon-wing doors. is nothing more than sheer business inter- bile magazine named the Tesla Model S Yet the company’s most decisive step est. Tesla needs more extensive funding its car of the year, calling it “an absolute is scheduled for next year, when the third for its research and development, so it is game changer.” generation of the Tesla model will be relying on cooperation partners. Less enthusiastic test reports criti- launched – a vehicle of the lower mid-size With a lack of humility typical of cized the car’s weight due to its almost class that should cost about CHF 23,000. Musk, Tesla has announced projected an- 500 kilogram batteries. It also requires up If Tesla is able to take the lead in this mar- nual sales of 500,000 cars by the year

Photo: Mark Avery / Zuma Press / Alamy / mauritius images Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 57 — On the Move —

2020, which means Tesla’s demand for How Green is the Electric Car? from brine in a process that contaminates lithium-ion batteries will soon exceed the Not everyone is applauding his big ideas, soil and water and releases toxic chemicals capacities of its supplier Panasonic. So, in however. –e experts say that his Hyper- into the atmosphere. Undoubtedly, the February, Musk announced that he in- loop is anything but a mature infrastruc- lithium-ion battery is the Achilles heel of tends to build a ve-billion-dollar battery ture project. Years of development and Musk ’s competitiveness, and as long as this factory that will create 6,500 jobs. And tests are necessary, making the originally problem remains unsolved, Tesla will not he expects to build two hundred more estimated costs far too optimistic. be nearly as environmentally friendly as such plants in the next decade. Lithium- –e National Automobile Dealers Musk would have people believe. ion batteries are also an important com- Association (NADA), which wants to ponent of solar technology. As chairman stop his direct-to-consumer sales model, Superheroes for the World of SolarCity, now one of the largest US has successfully taken Tesla to court. In Yet Musk marches on with seemingly un- producers of photovoltaic solar systems, NADA’s view, consumers will benet if shakable self-condence – uninhibited by Musk is optimizing the synergies be- Tesla is forced to market and sell its prod- any and all objections. With his boyish tween his various interests. “We must ucts through dealers. Musk says that di- looks, a slight overbite and his soft-spo- move to 100 percent renewable energy,” rect sales make its products more ažord- ken, halting speech pattern, Musk does says Musk. “We could power all of the US able to consumers. not exactly t the image of an industrial with solar panels covering just a corner of But the sharpest criticism has come magnate. He wears plain polo shirts, and Arizona.” in the form of a recent study conducted by his slender hands look like they could be- the US Environmental Protection Agency long to a mathematics professor. Yet be- Next Stop: Mars and the US Department of Energy. –e hind his apparent shyness, there hides an Nowhere is his determination to shape his- report had little positive to say about the impressive ego. People who know him say tory more apparent, however, than when lithium-ion batteries used by Tesla. It al- that he does not tolerate intellectual lim- you look at his space exploration company leges that the production of these batteries itations. He can be sharp and direct and SpaceX, which he founded in 2002. contributes considerably to global warm- he expects his employees to be as passion- SpaceX has already sent three supply cap- ing, and is damaging both to human ate about success as he is. Naturally, his sules to the International Space Station health and the environment. visions of success are not measured simply and transported three telecommunications Cobalt, which is used for the batter- by nancial gain, but rather by whether satellites into space, with another 16 ies, is a toxic metal, and lithium is extracted he has been successful in shaping the launches scheduled into late 2016. world according to his vision and altering In the end, he wants to achieve his how we live in it. ultimate goal – to take people to Mars Elon Musk was born in 1971 in Pre- SolarCity and establish a colony there. Musk be- toria, South Africa. His father Errol was lieves that this should be possible within 10 to 12 years. Indeed, he believes that No one in the US this could be the beginning of new forms produces more of life. “I think we’ll bioengineer photovoltaic solar systems. new organisms that are better suited For Chairman Musk to life on Mars, synthetically modi- there are optimal ed organisms.” Musk sees in the synergies with his other Mars idea the opportunity to make businesses. human life interplanetary and to create an alternative in case of ca- tastrophes on Earth. Musk’s ambition to constantly challenge the limits of what is con- sidered possible has made him rich. According to Forbes, his fortune tripled last year to 2.7 billion dol- lars. In the same period, Tesla shares rose by 625 percent and those of SolarCity by 340 percent. –e value of SpaceX is now esti- mated at over four billion dollars.

58 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Courtesy of Walmart — On the Move —

SpaceX

Musk’s aerospace company was founded in 2002 and has already sent numerous launches for the fourth rocket launch, which was into space. An additional successful. 16 launches are scheduled into late 2016. Tesla Almost Goes Bankrupt While the global economy was sliding into a crisis, Tesla Motors was just barely able to stave ož bankruptcy. Musk, who had invested his entire fortune in the company, red founder and company CEO Martin Eberhard, appointed an in- terim CEO and then took on this role himself in 2009. –e crisis and his work mania led to the collapse of his marriage with novelist Justine Wilson, with whom he shares custody of their ve sons (his rst son died of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome at ten weeks old). In 2012, Musk an- nounced that his second marriage to Brit- ish actress Talulah Riley was over. At the beginning of this year, however, they re- united and currently live with his chil- dren in a large mansion in Bel Air, which is said to have cost 17 million dollars. Aside from short trips to Disney- land, Musk spends most of his time in Tesla’s headquarters in Palo Alto and at SpaceX in Hawthorne, near Los Angeles airport. About once a month, he checks an engineer and entrepreneur, his Cana- years later for over 300 million dollars. in at SolarCity, but Tesla Motors and dian mother Maye, a former model, He invested the money in X.com, which SpaceX are the places where he forges his worked as a dietitian. Elon was a loner was developing an online payment model. plans for the future. He says, “An engi- who loved superhero comics and science. In 2000 the company X.com merged with neer is the closest thing to a magician that He experimented with explosives and Connity, which had a similar system to exists in the real world.” built small rockets. “I’m lucky to still have PayPal. When PayPal was sold to eBay in all my ngers,” he once said. As a twelve- year old, he wrote a computer game called Blastar, which he sold for ve hundred “I’m lucky to still have dollars. At sixteen, he wanted to open his own video arcade, but the city wouldn’t all my ngers.” give him a license. When he turned seventeen, he em- 2002 for 1.5 billion dollars, Musk held an igrated to Canada (he held Canadian cit- 11.7 percent stake in the company. He izenship through his mother), lived with was 31. relatives and studied in Kingston, On- Later that year, he founded SpaceX tario. When he was 22, he moved to the with Tom Mueller. –en, in 2004, he be- US to study at the University of Pennsyl- came a major investor in the Californian vania. His PhD studies in applied physics start-up company Tesla Motors. After at Stanford lasted exactly two days. Ex- rushing from success to success, he came cited about the dot-com boom, he de- close to bankruptcy in 2008 when cided to go into business for himself. SpaceX’s rst three rocket launches failed. With his younger brother Kimbal, he “We were just too stupid to put a rocket founded the online information service into orbit,” he explains. Luckily, NASA Alix Sharkey writes for various newspapers and Zip2, which they sold to Compaq four invested enough money in the company magazines. He lives in California.

Photo: Space X Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 59 — On the Move —

Air Travel Is Getting (Even) Better –e seat arrangement isn’t the only thing that is changing: In the future, we’ll travel in suites (rst class) or have to stand (economy) – but in exchange there will be fewer children screaming and better entertainment choices. An overview of the innovations in the airplane cabin.

By Adam Gavine

60 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Jonas Unger — On the Move —

raveling rst class – this used to to suit the passenger’s body temperature, an extensive wine list, a large LED TV mean a luxurious seat at the and the system monitors passengers’ eye and attentive service. Many airlines are front of the plane, ©owing movements to ensure that the simulated expanding their service to include a champagne, and a few addi- sunrise only wakes them after a restful driver picking you up from your home tional amenities. It was a great way to sleep. If they’re in a more celebratory and dropping you ož at a VIP entrance at Ttravel. In recent years, this experience has mood, passengers can close the doors, the airport, where ground staž will greet been expanded steadily. When airlines open the mini-bar and turn up the music. you and attend to your baggage, before such as Asiana, Emirates and Air France –e sound-proof suite ožers enough taking you through security and into a introduced private suites where passengers space for ve people to have a party. lounge. –erefore, it is no wonder that could shut out the rest of world with doors Passengers may want to freshen up some airlines are considering reducing or curtains, the rst-class experience after the party. At the press of a button, their rst-class area or even getting rid of seemed to be perfect. the large-screen television slides to the it altogether in order to expand business But then Etihad, the Abu Dhabi- side and reveals a mini spa area. Zodiac class. –is better meets the needs of their based airline, raised the bar even further thinks that Halo is ve to seven years market. with “–e Residence,” a private suite from becoming a reality. (starting in December on the new Air- A‚ordable for Everyone: Economy bus 380). A personal butler guides pas- Business Class Is the New First Class Economy class lets people travel the sengers through the double doors to –ere have been some astounding devel- globe at reasonable prices. However, air- their chambers. Waiting for them there opments in rst class, but the latest inno- lines are on the hunt for opportunities for are two luxurious seats and a sofa made vations in business class are no less im- more seating here, too ‒ both because of ne leather by Poltrona Frau – like the pressive. In fact, today’s business class is more room is needed for luxury suites up ones you’d nd in a Ferrari or Maserati. at least as comfortable as rst class was in business and rst class on the one –ere’s a 32-inch television and a dining just a few years ago. For example, a seat hand, and to keep ticket prices low and table with exquisite inlay. And that’s just cover the high cost of fuel on the other. the living room. Go through another –at was the bad news. –e good news is door and you enter the bedroom, with a A personal butler that things might get a little more inter- 205 x 120-centimeter bed, a 27-inch esting soon for the economy passenger, television and a shower in the ensuite guides passengers to their though not necessarily more spacious. bathroom. Among the boldest seating concepts “–e Residence” is 11.5 square me- chambers. is the SkyRider, developed by Italian tres of exclusivity and comfort for the cabin outtter Aviointeriors. With this price of about 20,000 US dollars for a that converts into a ©at bed has already saddle-like seat, passengers sit in almost a one-way ticket. It will be interesting to become standard on long-haul ©ights. standing position. Each seat therefore see how its competitors respond in the In order to generate additional uses less space, allowing for more seats to near future ‒ although it takes around prots, airlines have to accommodate as be added. –is is only suitable for short- ve years to develop this type of product. many passengers as possible in business haul ©ights – and bold airlines. class. –is is where things are getting in- Another concept that was recently Luxury Meets High-Tech teresting. A simple forward-facing seat introduced by Zodiac is the folding seat, High-tech could be one response. US can take up a lot of space in the cabin. like the ones that are found in cinemas, company Zodiac Aerospace ‒ one of the –erefore, a number of complex designs which are arranged in a “yin-yang” for- world’s largest companies specializing in have been devised to optimize comfort mation so that passengers sit in a row, aircraft cabin interiors ‒ recently pre- and passenger count; ultimately, an air- alternately facing forward and backward. sented its new “Halo” concept. Halo con- craft cabin represents some of the most –is, too, allows more seats to be added, veys the feeling of being in a room in a expensive square footage in the world. although there is still a surprising amount luxury hotel; this means that passengers From a shbone layout and a reverse of comfort and leg room. can arrange the two chairs and a sofa, shbone layout to a staggered arrange- Or how about a vertical arrange- which becomes a double bed, as they wish. ment, a staggered shbone layout, a yin- ment? Industry designers are looking for Just want to eat and then go to yang pattern or dovetail formation – air- opportunities for more space and greater sleep? A member of the cabin crew will craft cabin designers have long sought comfort in economy class with tiered fold out the dining table, serve an exqui- the ultimate solution for optimal com- seating, in which passengers sit in seats site meal and then make the bed. LEDs fort and prot. set at varying heights ‒ this solution of- on the wall make falling asleep easier by Amazingly today’s long-haul busi- fers a great amount of shoulder room, mimicking a starry night sky. –e air ness class experience doesn’t end at a more personal space and somewhat en- conditioning in the suite can be adjusted comfortable bed, gourmet dining with hances a large economy class cabin

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 61 — On the Move —

More entertainment, less space: –ales entertainment system, Zodiac folding seat.

visually. –e concept isn’t yet fully devel- the age when our most frequently asked ness Traveller Asia-Pacic) 17 times in a oped, but some airlines are already tak- question while traveling is: “Are we row. –e iconic Singapore girl even occa- ing a serious look at it. there yet?” sionally makes an appearance at Ma- Even when the ground speed is dame Tussaud’s wax museum in London. Entertainment at the Blink of an Eye around 965 km/h, the map doesn’t move Flight attendants are characterized In addition to upgrading and modifying often enough to ožer real entertainment by patience, facility with languages, di- various classes, airlines are working on and it conveys very little information plomacy and the ability to keep a cool new entertainment systems in particular. about the regions and countries over head under pressure. Some airlines are Currently, there are two options for op- which passengers are currently ©ying. adding to this list. For example, the erating an on-board entertainment sys- Map providers are therefore work- cabin crew of South Korean airline Asi- tem – by remote control or by touch- ing on “geotainment,” in which passen- ana can plan a spontaneous birthday screen. Because the seats in business class gers can immerse themselves in the maps party (including face painting and bal- now take up more room, however, the interactively. If a passenger sees some- loon animals) or organize a fashion screen is often uncomfortably far away show, draw caricatures, mix cocktails and a hard-wired remote control hardly and demonstrate how to brew the perfect seems modern. –ings might be getting cup of cožee. –e problem is being tackled in the Finally, there are “sky nannies” who labs at –ales and Panasonic Avionics, more interesting in ensure that passengers feel completely at two of the world’s largest companies for economy, but not roomier. ease while on the plane. Companies like on-board entertainment technologies. Gulf Air and Etihad ožer nannies. –ey One possibility is eye tracking, in which can calm, divert, entertain or ‒ whatever the movement of the passenger’s eyes is thing interesting when looking out the it takes ‒ bribe a child so that the youn- tracked by a camera. By looking up or window or at the map, that part of the gest passengers on-board are calm and down and right or left, the passenger can map can be expanded to see more de - happy. Because when they’re happy, the navigate through the menu, and a long tails. Text, images and videos provide entire plane is happy. look at a particular point conrms the information about the history of the par- passenger’s selection. Gesture controls ticular place, its culture and food. Pas- are another option, where passengers sengers can book a ©ight or hotel from navigate through the menu with a swip- their seats; they can even reserve a car, ing motion, and conrm their selection make a dinner reservation or buy concert by motioning for ward with an open palm. tickets. –ese technologies are already –ales introduced these technolo- available for use, and many airlines are gies in its “immersive seat,” which boasts interested in them. a complete home cinema. In addition to ambient sound and a vibrating seat (for Flight Attendants Can Do it All example, when there is an explosion in Comfortable seats are essential on every the lm), the system also monitors eye ©ight, but ultimately it’s the ©ight atten- movement; if the passenger falls asleep or dant who really makes passengers feel gets up to go to the bathroom, the lm comfortable. For example, Singapore stops until the passenger is ready to start Airlines created the famous “Singapore watching again. girl” in order to promote its service. Its Even with all the Holly wood lms, iconic image of a ©ight attendant wear- TV shows and games that are available ing a traditional sarong has been around via the on-board entertainment system, since 1972, and it’s been very successful. Adam Gavine is the editor at Aircraft Interiors the moving map remains a favorite. –e airline won the title of “World’s Best International, the leading publication for airline Maybe this is because we never outgrow Cabin Crew Service” (presented by Busi- interiors.

62 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photos: –ales; Zodiac — On the Move — In the App Store

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Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 63

Bulletin_Talon_Inserat_dfie_140806.indd 2 06.08.14 11:46 — On the Move —

“As long as it gets good mileage” Drivers start small, too. In the 1960s and 1970s, Matchbox model cars were the stars of every child’s room. And today? Are the little metal toys just keepsakes, or more popular than you would think?

By Lars Jensen

Long ago, before the world’s most popu- lar toy was a high-tech robotic plush ani- mal named Furby that boasted a thou- sand-word vocabulary, nothing inspired as many children’s dreams as the automo- bile. Could a child imagine anything more exciting than someday speeding down the highway the way grown-ups did? Until that day came, Matchbox model cars kept the dream alive. –e British manufacturer Lesney has gladdened young hearts in untold numbers since introducing its best- known brand in 1953. It all began when a steel manufacturer crafted a die-cast toy car for his daughter at a scale of 1:72, which t inside a matchbox – an idea that charmed her friends and eventually the whole world. In 2007, Matchbox an- nounced that it had sold three billion cars in more than 130 countries. –e 1:72 scale was determined by the machinery available to Lesney at the time. It proved ideal for production. Later, Matchbox cars were also made in other sizes. In the brand’s heyday, the 1960s and 1970s, “playing cars” was a favorite pastime of youngsters everywhere, with dramatic rollovers and crashes aided by vocal sound ežects – and Matchbox cars.

And Today? Kids and cars is still a winning formula. Disney made ten million dollars on mer- chandising alone with its blockbuster lm “Cars.” But the manufacturers of tra- ditional toys are battling competition from electronic playthings, known as youth electronics. –is poses a dilemma for companies like Matchbox. Should the company adapt and produce talking A winning formula worldwide: Matchbox cars from an advertising campaign (2003).

64 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photos: Mattel — On the Move —

Matchbox cars, or even video games and play with them?” –e responses should away as Asia and the Americas to his movies, or hold fast to tradition? please the strategists at Mattel. Four boys shop. Matchbox fans who travel to Berlin In 1997, Matchbox was acquired by and one girl each own at least three cars. wouldn’t miss a visit to Cars & Boxes. the US toy conglomerate Mattel. And –ey play with them every day, and they Business is good; Matchbox cele- though there is no talk of strategizing a like them just the way they are. None of brated its 60th anniversary last year, and cult following for the brand, the Match- these children has a favorite. “I make the Oettler drew a good deal of attention. –e box multipacks of ve to 20 cars remain sounds myself,” says Jacob. And Carlos company issued a collector’s edition of the bestsellers at Amazon and toysrus.com. points out one advantage over electronic Superfast series, which was popular in the toys: “–e cars don’t break.” 1970s – classics such as the Citroën DS, “ˆe cars don’t break” In Berlin, perhaps the world’s most the Mercedes 450 SEL and an American To nd out what customers think, we knowledgeable expert in this eld runs a ambulance, as well as modern models turned to a small focus group: Ruby, 4, business dedicated to everything Match- such as the Toyota Prius, Fisker Karma New York; Pablo, 7, Amsterdam; Nick, 6, box. Carsten Oettler owns more than and Porsche Cayenne. Hamburg; Carlo, 6, London; and Jacob, 10,000 models of all eras and types, from “–ere are two types of Matchbox 4, New York. Question: “Do you have the hovercraft boat to a three-wheeled enthusiasts,” Oettler notes. “–e children Matchbox cars, and how often do you milk cart. Customers come from as far who get inexpensive multipacks as gifts, and the collectors who pay a lot of money for limited special editions. It seems to me that children are less excited about cars – on the street and in their rooms – nowa- days. Meanwhile, more and more adults are indulging in nostalgia.”

A Car Just Like Daddy’s Children don’t care much about what kinds of cars they use to simulate crashes. Matchbox assembles its multipacks on a random basis. In the 1950s, Matchbox began with British cars, such as the MG Midget or the Vauxhall Cresta. It soon became clear that the children had other preferences – VW and Citroën were the rst foreign cars in the Matchbox line, and sales were brisk. One thing hasn’t changed over all the years. Children’s choices in toy cars re©ect what their parents say and do. Take Pablo from Amsterdam, for example. His mother works for a company that sells so- lar panels and doesn’t own a car. Her son says, “I like any kind of Matchbox car – as Maria schaut wegen StockBild. long as it gets good mileage.” Sonst Cražt selber produzieren?

Lars Jensen lives in New York and writes for the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, Die Zeit, the Süddeutsche Zeitung, Der Spiegel and other publications.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 65 — On the Move —

Where Does the Journey Lead? Cruises are popular, adventure vacations are a growth market. Two successful vacation providers discuss the trends on land and sea and the changing needs of adventurous clientele. By Simon Brunner

Cruises enjoy above-average popularity in landlocked Switzerland.

66 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Stefan Kuhn / Gallery Stock — On the Move —

The backpacking spirit of exploration has taken hold.

Photo: Greg Winston / National Geographic Creative Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 67 — On the Move —

1 — Christian Schneider “–e melting of arctic ice is opening up

new travel routes” pedition cruises are opening up as a result of climate change, such as the melting of ice in the Arctic.

Huge ships versus niche trips on smaller ships: Which direction are we heading in? Christian Schneider is the CEO of MCCM Master Cruises. The vacation We have noticed that demand is tending in professional lets us in on what’s the direction of smaller, higher-end ships, important for ship passengers and with suites costing around 3,500 Swiss why the landlocked Swiss can’t get enough of cruises. francs per week .

And aboard the ship: What about themed cruises? What are the latest things to do and what will be possible in the future? –e themes of time, peace, space and relax- ation are becoming increasingly important Mr. Schneider, where did you go on your Are cruises popular with young people? in a hectic world. Passengers want to be summer vacation? For one thing, increasingly large mega- able to ll up their days in their own way. I have a passion for nature and expedition liners are making cruises available to a –e trend in luxury cruises is therefore to- trips. For example, in the summer I went wide, price-conscious audience. And at ward providing a casual, individualized of- climbing in the Swiss Alps and this fall the same time, the luxury cruise lines are fering onboard when it comes to dining, I’ll visit the Galapagos Islands on an ex- ožering more short trips that enable cultural and activities programs. pedition cruise. younger people with more time constraints to take high-end cruises. Expedition For rst-time cruisers: what is your go-to e cruise industry is one of the largest cruises are also in demand among younger seasickness remedy? growth markets – not only in the customers. My main recommendation is book a cabin vacation sector, but in the leisure market as close to the middle of the ship as you as a whole. Since 1990, there has been a What are the predominant features of can. Modern ships also have stabilizers. If 7.2 percent increase in the number of the local market? that doesn’t work, then Stugeron or Itine- tourists vacationing on a ship each year. Cruises enjoy above-average popularity in rol usually help . Why are people so crazy about cruises? landlocked Switzerland. –e market has –ere is no other branch of tourism that grown by 10 to 20 percent over the past has changed so rapidly over the past few few years. Demand for high-end products years. –e product has been adapted to and luxury cabins are typical features of suit customers’ desire for ©exibility and the Swiss market. –e top destinations in individuality. Customers are now able to summer are the northern routes, the Med- dene for themselves what their stay on- iterranean and the Arctic. In winter, board will be like. destinations in Asia, the Pacic, South America and the Antarctic are in demand. e American writer David Foster –e special global travel routes such as the Wallace wrote in a much-quoted essay Panama Canal, Alaska and trips around about a cruise that it was “a supposedly Cape Horn are also popular. fun thing I’ll never do again.” Cruises still have a rather dull image. With regard to destinations: for years, Is this fair? cruising has been all about the Caribbean; No – you can travel around the world and it is a destination for over 37 percent of all only unpack once, you just can’t beat that cruises. Why? and it also attracts an active and cosmo- –ere is a strong link between the cruise politan clientele. In addition, the services region and the ship category. –e large on board cruise ships nowadays focus on cruise lines in the budget segment prefer Christian Schneider, 47, is the CEO of MCCM the widest possible range of customer mass vacation destinations such as the Master Cruises Christian Möhr AG, Switzer- land’s leading provider of rst-class/luxury cruises preferences, and the level of comfort is not Mediterranean or the Caribbean. –e rst and expeditions. Cruises are extremely popular, inferior to that of hotels on land – quite class/luxury segment ožers a wider range with the number of Swiss passengers increasing the contrary. of global destinations. New routes for ex- by 100 percent over the past six years.

68 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Private — On the Move —

2 — André Lüthi “Adventure? I’m sick of hearing

that word” very popular – although Botswana is cur- rently rather expensive. Overall, South America has the highest growth rates – Chile is almost easier to get around than Australia.

For travel pros: Are there any adventures left? Adventure! –at word has been so over- André Lüthi is a pioneer in custom tours. The co-owner of Globetrotter explains how used I’m almost sick of hearing it. And it backpacking has become socially acceptable, doesn’t t in with our times. Nowadays why Australia has become a dream location travelers denitely want an experience, but for the Swiss and what unknown vacation spots are still waiting to be discovered. it has to be a safe one. Is there really such a thing as a true adventure with a safety net? I don’t think so.

Let’s put it another way. Is there anything Mr. Lüthi, how did you spend your summer about the world nowadays. And travel has left to be discovered? vacation? become safer and more comfortable. Yes, a lot! –e remote valleys between Bhu- I went on a trip around the world with my –ere’s no longer anything very daring tan and Tibet, or some places in central and 13-year-old son, which he has wanted to do about a trip to China. Furthermore, peo- east Africa. And Siberia is fantastically for a long time. We traveled mainly in Asia, ple have been infected by the spirit of ex- beautiful, especially the part east of Irkutsk. but also stopped ož in Hawaii. ploration. Not every traveler has a back- pack and a tiny budget, but they often take You take travel groups to North Korea – why? Does someone that young really need to be a similar approach to travel, really getting –ere are people who are cynical about this travelling the world already? out there, exploring, experiencing. And kind of tourism. You should never underes- It’s not really a question of whether a recently, the dividing lines between the timate the role that tourism can play, how- 13-year-old should be travelling around the segments have started to break down. –e ever. Take Burma, for example. Tourism world. Our children have been traveling same couple that goes to a ve-star resort helped to weaken the regime there. Tour- with us since they were very small, because in Mauritius one year might decide to take ists bring information into the country and travel is a major part of our life. –e round- a trip on an old motorcycle across Cambo- then report on what they saw when they get the-world trip was just a logical conse- dia the following year. home. I hope that tourism will also have quence of the places that we wanted to visit. a positive in©uence in North Korea, by And by the way, I would highly recommend How does age ašect the vacations people take? weakening the system. that every busy father take a trip alone with It might surprise you to hear that a lot of the kids now and then. You get to spend 24 customers taking these customized trips How do you travel yourself? How do you hours a day together, and share and experi- are a little older. –ey’ve lost count of how choose a hotel and restaurant in a new city? ence so much; it creates a great bond. many times they have been to Mallorca, I denitely don’t look online or read a travel and now they want to actually experience guide, I prefer the old-fashioned way: ask You are on trend: e number of round-the- something. –ey book a simple round trip the taxi driver. world trips has increased by 27 percent such as taking a camper van across the US. since 2009 – a lot more than beach vacations, If that works out, they gradually experi- for example (12 percent). ment with more exotic locations. –ese gures are driven by the world’s largest growth market. Asian tourists love What are usually the most popular travelling to a lot of places within a short destinations? time. Here too, there is a trend towards Australia generates 20 percent of our rev- multiple-destination vacation concepts. enue. –e Swiss are fascinated by the André Lüthi, 54, is the chairman of the board I’ve been saying it for twenty years – you country. It is easy to travel around, and for and co-owner of the Globetrotter Group, don’t learn anything on a sun lounger. people who are used to package tourism, it Switzerland’s fourth-largest travel company ožers plenty of adventure. –ere is a lot of (revenue: CHF 255 million). Lüthi converted the How do you explain the change in travel growth in Southeast Asia, in particular provider of low-cost backpack trips into a com- pany ožering customized trips in all segments. behavior? Vietnam, Burma, Cambodia and Laos. –e father of two is married and lives in Bern. In –anks to the internet and Lonely Planet South Africa seems to be slowly losing its 2012, Ernst & Young chose him as Entrepreneur travel guides, people know a lot more appeal, but Namibia and Botswana are of the Year in the service/commerce sector.

Photo: Globetrotter Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 69 — On the Move —

It Just Keeps on Flying Migratory birds use their abilities to escape the winter cold and nd abundant food. –e common swift (Apus apus), a highly aerial migrant, spends an amazing portion of its life on the wing.

By Herbert Cerutti

–e wandering albatross (Diomedea exu- said to spend that entire time aloft – the before they disappeared into the night lans) soars majestically above the waves winter in Africa, the summer in Europe, sky. And at dawn, as the birds in the tree- around Antarctica, swooping low to pluck and another winter in Africa – 21 months tops began to twitter, the night ©yers squid and sh from the icy waters. –e in all, before they must touch down in the glided down from high in the sky to lower red knot (Calidris canutus), a sandpiper third summer, landing at random to nest levels, still on the wing. the size of a blackbird, ©ies in autumn and hatch their own brood. To document what the birds did at from its breeding grounds in the high night, out of human sight, Weitnauer even- Arctic tundra to southern climes half a Night Flight in Warm Upper Winds tually used Kloten Airport’s surveillance world away, crossing oceans and deserts Emil Weitnauer, a teacher from Oltingen radar. Night after long summer night, he on a nonstop journey without food or wa- in the Basel region, wanted to determine monitored the radar echoes of the swifts in ter. But the migratory bird that leads the facts of this life of permanent ©ight. the warm upper winds. In 1960, using mil- them all in frequent ©yer miles is almost Even as a child, he was fascinated by the itary re control radar, their ©ight behavior certainly the common swift (Apus apus). “Spyr,” as the bird is called in Swiss Ger- was recorded in detail. Each bird ©aps its Born in early June, six weeks later man. He admired the way they ©itted wings for half a dozen beats per second, the young swift pokes its beak out of the about the eaves on their long, sick- then glides for a brief moment before re- entrance to its nest high under the eaves le-shaped wings; he squeezed into the suming its wing strokes. Presumably the – and plummets ož its perch. In that in- belfry below the church steeple to get a bird catches a mini-nap during each few stant, the ©edgling begins its life on the close look at the nesting birds, black- seconds of gliding. wing. It ©ies day and night, high above ish-brown with a pale-gray chin patch. In mountains, deserts, and oceans, traveling 1951, the amateur ornithologist took to Bed and Board in the Sky 10,000 kilometers in a few weeks to the the skies himself in a small plane. From Swifts also take their food on the wing. ©ock’s winter quarters in southern Africa. above, he could watch whole groups of Its beak wide open, the bird speeds –e following June, the young return, young swifts at dusk, as other birds were through the air at up to 200 kilometers joining their parents’ colony back at the going to roost – wheeling higher and per hour, gathering mosquitos, beetles, same nesting grounds. Young swifts are higher, reaching 2,000 meters and more and spiders in its throat. To feed their

70 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Paul R. Sterry / Nature Photographers Ltd / Alamy — On the Move —

Living and loving on the wing: –e common swift can stay aloft for months.

nestlings on a ne July day, the parents ne weather, their dance can be seen ten In 1939, Emil Weitnauer banded a newly hunt from three in the morning until to eighty meters above the ground. –e hatched swift with number 605 769. –ree eight at night, forming the catch with sa- female, soaring in a straight line, sud- years later, he found the same bird, a male, liva into food balls (boluses) that they denly trembles, loses speed, and glides sitting on a nest on the church steeple. place in the hungry young’s beak – up to on outspread wings. –e hovering male Nine summers in a row, the bird and his 40 a day, each containing 200 to 1,500 ©oats down at an angle, making a V with partner returned to their nest and hatched insects, reaching a daily total of some their brood. –en a new female appeared, 60,000 gathered during 1,000 kilometers probably because his longtime mate had of ©ight. And the swift is quite a selective Swooping low, the bird come to grief on the winter safari. In 1960, hunter. One beekeeper who shot swifts scoops up water like a Weitnauer recorded number 605 769 on near his hives found that their stomachs the nest for the last time. During those 21 contained no worker bees, but only the reghting tanker aircraft. years, the male swift must have ©own stingless drones – evidence of their excep- nearly four million kilometers – enough to tional ability to perceive and react to prey his wings, and grips her feathered back journey to the moon and back ve times during the high-speed hunt. with his claws. As they couple, the pair over. To drink, sw ifts swoop low and scoop steadily loses altitude. –ey part after up water into their beaks like a reghting a few seconds, often perilously close to tanker aircraft. –is maneuver can occa- the ground. sionally go awry. One observer saw a swift Swifts form pairs that endure for catch a wingtip on a wave, spin around and years, returning directly from the south plunge into the water. Unable to lift ož to the same nesting site. Often, how- despite repeated attempts, it eventually ever, sparrows and starlings have already drowned. –e bird’s scientic name, Apus moved in. –e swifts are ruthless in bat- apus, derives from the Greek apous (foot- tling for their nest. Stubbornly, they claw less) and refers to its short, weak legs; this at the intruders, ©ail at them with their consummate ©yer can barely hop along the wings, hold their ground for hours – un- ground. But it’s not true that a swift, hav- til the competition, totally unnerved, ©ies ing landed on the ground, cannot take ož away. Now the swifts gather new nest ma- again. On level terrain with just ten meters terial: feathers, petals, seed bers, scraps of clearance, the bird will hold its wings of paper – all caught in ©ight, of course. high, give one vigorous ©ap, and rise to Gluing the loose bits together with saliva ©utter away like a bat. that drips from their beaks and turns hard as rubber when exposed to air, the birds A Couples Cruise – on the Wing form the material into a compact trough. Herbert Cerutti, an experimental physicist, has While swifts sometimes mate in their Any eggs or dead chicks left by the de- won a number of awards for scientic journalism. nest, they also copulate high in the air. In parting birds become part of the nest. He lives in Wolfhausen in the canton of Zurich.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 71 — On the Move —

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72 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

–e Journey

IsHitting the the road to travelReward is one of the eternal themes of literature. Goethe traveled because he was bored and in love, Ilija Trojanow was born to be a collector of worlds, Jack Kerouac’s passion for the road made him an idol of the hippie generation. A brief guide to travel literature.

By Daniele Muscionico (text) with Berto Martínez (illustration)

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(1) Jack Kerouac, (2) Martha Gellhorn, (3) Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, (4) Ella Maillart, (5) V.S. Naipaul, (6) Cees Nooteboom, (7) Djuna Barnes, (8) Ilija Trojanow Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 73 — On the Move —

sonally accepts the hardships and ad- dead knowledge of books and the living ventures or saddles his hero with them knowledge of those who write the book of and weaves them into their lives – being the world. on the road is an eternal theme in liter- ature. It cannot be killed ož, it cannot 1 — be writ small, it cannot be captured at a national border. It has to be risked anew Jack Kerouac in every era – and this past century both sexes were nally able to embark on this e beat of venture. Yes, women are also writers and they travel! And no longer just vicariously a generation around the kitchen table at home. Whether the author is driving or is (1922 – 1969) driven to travel, the trope of “ being on the Where to go? What to do? Why? –ese road” in literature is never an end in it- three unholy questions stand behind self. –ere is no tourism here, so to speak. the legendary hitchhiker’s bible “On the –ere is the search. But is there a goal? Road.” –e novel forever immortalized –ere is the journey, and the reward is to Jack Kerouac, and there are some four e do much of what write about traveling it. It’s about move- million copies on bookshelves around we do without knowing why we do it. ment, it’s about development, metamor- the world, worn and tattered, but great And it’s ne that way. It would be much phosis and change. All in the spirit of ad- literature, world literature. –e back- too di®cult – and no doubt too disap- venture? Well, that too. Let’s leave that ground: dust bowl, the Depression and pointing – to always understand our ac- to the male writers, the men of letters. war. America, migrants, Groucho Marx Wtions. When it comes to travel, however, Odysseus, Sinbad, Jules Verne’s classic and “the dark and wild problem children dižerent rules apply. Life on the road re- English gentleman Phileas Fogg, Homo of America, a new troubled generation.” quires some form of justication. Even if Faber, the hero, who travels, ghts, tri- Written over just three weeks in April only for oneself. –at was certainly the umphs, and journeys through strange and 1951 and typed single-spaced and with- case for a genius like Goethe. –e cele- unknown countries into dream worlds, out paragraph breaks on a 40-meter long brated poet and intellectual giant was into alternate universes, experiencing roll of glued-together sheets of drawing a minister at the Weimar court and the ažairs, adventures – and nally returns paper (or so we thought), the novel has a closest friend and adviser to the duke. Yet home with self-awareness as his prize. delirious, feverish ežect, like one of the did he really understand why he wanted Traveling in language, traveling in endless roads that Kerouac brought to to give up everything to travel, includ- literature. As the saying goes, isn’t life life. –e rhythmic narration of the high - ing his social position and the security also a journey, a gathering of experience way; a drug haze underpinned by a beat. it ažorded him? Perhaps he did not. For along the way? In literature, there is the But the legend has lost some of its luster the wordsmith found himself at a loss for words – and stole away secretly at night in a fog. Where to? –e open road! –e literary theme of traveling or the journey often provides a mirror to an inner con©ict. Whether the writer trav- els by foot over Swiss glaciers or rides a bumpy carriage across the countryside; whether he hitchhikes with his protag- onists from the US into Mexico; whether the author, playing the smug American, wants to save her compatriots in France from the French; whether the author per-

74 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

since the original roll was found in 2010. ing these as a “basis for re-education.” furt or wishes to escape the connes of Kerouac’s drug trip to paradise was appar- –e New Yorker magazine developed a the court in Weimar. An identity crisis ently not the result of a three-week, am- new genre with Gellhorn’s reports – war or what we would now call burnout spurs phetamine-fueled frenzy of productivity. journalism that eschewed descriptions of him to travel to unknown countries, seek- Rather it involved years of preparation, troop movements to focus instead on the ing new focus and inspiration. He trav- agonizing, sometimes con©icting ideas sužering of the civilian population. Gell- els in disguise to Italy, where he is well about literary theory, and countless notes horn’s style is a blend of intimate close ob- known as the author of “Werther.” Us- and fragmented starts. –e intoxicating servation, meticulously collected informa- ing a pseudonym, he makes botanical as haze has dissipated, sobriety remains. tion and personal opinion. After all, she well as erotic studies, and he continues to “never believed in that objectivity shit.” write. And Switzerland? He visited the country three times in search of great ex- 2 — periences in nature and the feeling of be- 3 — ing overwhelmed by the landscape. –e Martha Gellhorn impression of an Alpine country, the high Johann Wolfgang mountains, deep gorges, wild waterfalls, e battle eld of life pure lakes leave their mark on the au- von Goethe thor – as does the image of the “industri- (1908 – 1998) ous Swiss.” Who invented Switzerland? Johann Wolfgang von Goethe certainly played a part.

She even toured the continent of Heming- way in 1940, on his way to world fame and alcoholism. Martha Gellhorn was mar- ried to the writer for four years. –ose four years were a disaster, and Gellhorn Refugee with a no longer wanted to hear his name later in life. (Nevertheless, he dedicated his novel passion for Switzerland 4 — about the Spanish Civil War, “For Whom the Bell Tolls,” to her.) Gellhorn sought (1749 – 1832) Ella Maillart war, not only in her private life, which is at least as famous or infamous, but also in He is the godfather of travelers who write A classic from her professional work: war reportage as an and writers who travel. His most popular American correspondent. She experienced destinations were: Italy (“Do you know the Switzerland nine wars rst-hand, including in Europe, country where lemon trees bloom...”) and just before and after World War II. Mar- Switzerland, where the Gotthard Massif (1903 – 1997) tha Gellhorn was in Israel and Vietnam, and the Rhine Falls fascinated him, and and she wrote about Dachau shortly af- he dedicated an entire day to observing She competed on the Swiss Olympic ter its liberation – a source of memories and describing the latter. Goethe’s trips sailing team in 1924, co-founded the that haunted her until her death. She trav- are getaways. He travels because he is Swiss ladies’ ski club, she skied in the eled in 53 dižerent countries, experienc- bored with his work as a lawyer in Frank- world championships. –e Geneva

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 75 — On the Move —

about the third world with a cool detach- while, since 1953 in fact, this unusual au- ment. And since V.S. Naipaul won the thor has been traveling – rst to Paris, on Nobel Prize for Literature (2001), the the Côte d’Azur, and later in Spain and critics have not grown quieter. Vidiadhar Portugal. It was not until long after that Surajprasad Naipaul was born in 1932 in he began writing the works that estab- Chaguanas near Port of Spain on Trin- lished his reputation as the patient, dis- native continually reinvented herself and idad. Although part of the British cul- creet, economical storyteller, or “©aneur her profession: as a secretary, artist model tural establishment, he is also in a cer- of the soul.” Nooteboom was originally a or stunt woman for the Ufa studio in tain sense driven, constantly looking for Berlin. Indeed, the venture that she the roots of modern man. Naipaul has not started and which made her world-famous only traveled the world in his short stories in 1935 was truly a breakneck enterprise – and novels, he has traveled the globe from a “forbidden journey,” six thousand weary the time he was 18 years old. His travels kilometers on horses, camels and on foot, have taken him to the Indian homeland through salt ©ats, sandy deserts, marsh of his parents, to Africa, South America, plateaus across the Pamir and Karakoram the West Indies and Asia. Naipaul began, mountain ranges. Ella Maillart traveled in the words of the Stockholm jury, as “a from the coast of China into Mongolian portrayer of street life.” Praised by the jury India, from Beijing to Kashmir through as a “masterpiece,” Naipaul’s novel “–e forbidden, embattled regions of Central Enigma of Arrival” provides “an unre- Asia. Her book about this trip is among lenting image of the placid collapse of the the classics of travel literature. old colonial ruling culture and the decline of European neighborhoods.” In 1981, he compiled his intensive travel reports in the book “An Islamic Journey.” However, criticism of the acclaimed writer con- tinues. –e writer Dutch reporter. Not so much a roving re- Hanif Kureishi porter as an irritated one, he saw himself recently por- confronted by world history: 1956, the trayed Nai- revolt in Hungary. –e reader may not paul in his new always understand what he has written novel as an aging since then, about traveling to remember, boor and/or delu- about unrequited love – and death, which sional egomaniac. might be the greatest of all journeys. But that is the plan. Perhaps the point of read- 5 — ing Nooteboom is for the reader to re- 6 — member through travel, remembering, V.S. Naipaul about unrequited love and about death. Cees Nooteboom “Memory is like a dog that lies down Nobel Prize for where he wants,” says Cees Nooteboom – e strolling soul and he leads this dog by his side through the traveling post- the world on a leash woven from words. (1933) colonialist (1932) Being on the road, watching and strolling Some see him as a cynic, a traitor and an through places, eras, and souls is a mode arrogant imperialist because he writes of being for Nooteboom. For quite a

76 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 — On the Move —

7 — biographical reality, she rules out a con- versation with Hitler in Germany, writ- Djuna Barnes ing that “the interview did not take place, he wanted ten dollars a word.” But she e woman who lets her protagonist, Elvira van Winkel, languish in Berlin under the lime trees, traveled to forget in the arms of Baron Schildkraut… be- cause at night you cannot tell whether it’s (1892 – 1982) a man or a woman that you’re taking up with. Djuna Barnes, the passionate trav- She traveled in the 1920s, mainly because eler, invents the elegant, parodic tourist of her profession as a freelance writer for pose, and is adept at continental chic and magazines in the US such as –e New old world sophistication. Yorker. She wrote stories about travel- ing women and about travel, at the time an expression of the highest freedom for 8 — avant-garde artists and writers – and an activity that women were beginning to do Ilija Trojanow independently for the rst time. In Paris, the attractive, lesbian American Djuna e collector of worlds Barnes held court as Lydia Tiptoe with Igor Stravinsky at the Café du Dôme… (1965) What is truth? What is invention? Only one thing is certain: Barnes is the peak Maybe he was born to be a traveler. Or it of literary perfection. In Paris, she meets might be the in©uence of his role mod- Marcel Duchamp, Berenice Abbott, Man els, the journalists Egon Erwin Kisch and Ray, James Joyce and Gertrude Stein – all Ryszard Kapuscinski. In any case, he pre- people she knows from New York. She fers life on the road. –e writer Ilija Tro- plays the haughty American dame and janow ©ed with his family as a child from devotes herself to providing her compa- Bulgaria and moved to Kenya. He has triots with “French etiquette for foreign- since become a world traveler, a collector ers.” Paris is her center, the “only place in of worlds. Travel as a form of life, the crit- the world that I know of, except maybe ical and self-critical look into one’s own parts of Africa, where one can live if baggage, the writer’s eye turned on one’s one has no friends or love.” In her liter- own country, but also on the networks of ary self-parodies, the Balearic Islands are the powerful, here as well as abroad; in rain-drenched and the traveling writer is fact, his anti-Americanism and critique a comic gure. Beyond geographical and of NSA surveillance resulted in his be- ing barred entry to the US in 2013. Trojanow writes short stories, nov- els and reportage, he invents and nds historical adventurers, or he is on the road and reports on the “inner shore of India” during his travels along the Ganges. He is a Daniele Muscionico is an award-winning arts great traveler and strong advocate and culture journalist; she is winner of the Zurich for “our globe unleashed.” Journalism Award and recipient of a fellowship from the Landis & Gyr Cultural Foundation.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 77 — On the Move —

“It just never happened”: Heidi Bohl at home in Toggenburg.

78 — Bulletin 3 / 2014 Photo: Tom Haller — On the Move —

“I don’t need to go anywhere” Heidi Bohl, 60, owns a restaurant in Toggenburg and has only left Switzerland twice in her life. In her mind, there’s no need to go anywhere when it’s so beautiful here, and she’s happy. Although it would really be something to swim in the ocean, just once. Transcript: Simon Brunner

–e most beautiful place in the world is the Malta, Hawaii, Alaska and many other exhibition at the Kunsthaus. His paint- Fronalpstock, above Brunnen. –ere, our places. Something about it just draws her. ings of the Gotthard Post are just magnif- little world lies at your feet. You can see When she comes back, we look at the pic- icent. On the way home, I went to the ve lakes and far out into the countryside. tures she took. I love doing that, but I’m not Sprüngli confectionery store and bought a It’s wonderful! But maybe I’m the wrong tempted to go see it all for myself. My pound of their Luxemburgerli macaroons. person to say that. I’ve only been outside daughter has many more opportunities –e saleswoman looked horried – so I Switzerland twice, three days in Vienna than we ever had. She should enjoy it! told her I was taking a Luxemburgerli and once brie©y in Alsace. It just never My childhood and teenage years cure. For our latest class reunion, we vis- happened, traveling like that. were wonderful. We had many animals on ited a former classmate who works in a Earlier, we ran our own farm, and we the farm, and we often played in the river restaurant on the Langstrasse. I was eager wanted to be back at the barn in the eve- –ur. As a child, I had the feeling that I to get a glimpse of the famous Zurich ning to milk. Four years ago, our son took would miss something if I left, and not if I nightlife. It was interesting to see the hus- over the farm. My husband and I didn’t stayed home. tle and bustle. What a wild time we had! want to be in the way, so we moved out. On top of that, we don’t like to stay We drank and danced until the benches We bought a restaurant in the area; the in hotels. What’s the point? –e rooms are were groaning, and we didn’t get home former owner hadn’t had much luck with it small, and the place is full of people. We until three in the morning. and wanted to sell. We had no idea how to once thought a river cruise would be nice. run a restaurant, but I’ve always been a But it’s terribly crowded on a cruise ship; No Reception Means Peace and Quiet good cook. Our guests especially like my you live like battery hens. I would like to Switzerland has changed since I was a desserts: Black Forest cherry cake, straw - see the ocean, though. I think I’d like it – child. It has become more hectic. People berry tart and Cremeschnitte (layers of don’t have time any more. Actually, they puž pastry and custard cream). would have time – they work fewer hours Now we take four or ve weeks of “On top of that, we than we used to on the farm – but they feel vacation every year. We go hiking and visit stressed. Maybe they also have their prior- our children. Of course, we could ažord to don’t like to stay in hotels. ities wrong. Our restaurant is in a cell travel abroad – the parking garage at the What’s the point?” phone dead zone. Guests come in, sit airport costs more nowadays than the down and pull out their phone. At rst ©ight itself. A lot of people from our vil- they’re ©abbergasted that they can’t play lage go to –ailand. I’m afraid it would be the surf, the sunset. I’d like to swim in the around with it. But when they leave, they too hot for me there, and too muggy. On ocean, as long as there weren’t any waves. tell me how much they enjoyed the peace the other hand, I would enjoy the food. And as long as I didn’t sit on a starsh! and quiet. –ere’s a –ai takeout place in Wattwil, Vienna was an experience! For my In the evenings I like to sit in the and they make an excellent curry. father’s 65th birthday, my brother-in-law, garden with a glass of Amarone and a Canada is also popular; my son was who works for Swissair, organized the good book. Reading is my greatest hobby. just there, but he thought the countryside three-day trip. It was 1984, and it was the I have a vivid imagination, and I see what was too ©at. Some farmers from Toggen- rst and only time I ever set foot on an air- I read in my mind’s eye. –e brook babbles burg sold up to move to Canada, but they’ve plane. I enjoyed the ©ight, especially the in the background, and I’m happy. If been homesick ever since. –ey can’t come takeož, the feeling of being pulled back in you’re happy, then there’s no need to go back because they don’t have the money to your seat. In Vienna, we visited the Span- anywhere. buy something here, and they can’t manage ish Riding School, which was lovely. But I to sell their farms over there. felt sorry for the horses, the way their heads are held in during the dressage. And I’ll Miss Something If I Go Away my father’s hands got swollen from all the Our oldest daughter is a globetrotter. She’s walking – he wasn’t used to that, and he a chef, and she traveled a lot even during her was glad to get home again. Heidi Bohl, 60, and her husband run the Speer training. Since then, she’s been to Austra- I don’t know Zurich very well. My restaurant in Ebnat-Kappel, Canton St. Gallen. lia, New Zealand, India, Nepal, England, daughter once took me to a Rudolf Koller –ey have four grown children.

Bulletin 3 / 2014 — 79 — The Last Page —

Wind and Ways: Life Is Constant Movement

Jörn Kaspuhl is an illustrator in Hamburg. His work appears in such publications as –e New Yorker, Monocle, GQ , Wired and Der Spiegel.

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