THE WEE SMALL HOURS ALL THE ACTION OF THE MET BALL AFTER PLUS: MIDTOWN MOVE PARTIES – AND EVEN BRITISH RETAILER THE AFTER-AFTER SUPERDRY OPENS IN PARTY. PAGE 9 TIMES SQUARE. PAGE 12

WWD

WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

BUILDING BLOCKS Piperlime Joins Rush To Omni-channel World tions, having grown its business By SHARON EDELSON organically. When the e-commerce site bowed in 2006, it focused on NEW YORK — Piperlime is join- footwear and handbags. In 2009, it ing the rush from e-tail to retail. branched out into apparel. Men’s The Web site, owned by wear followed in 2011. Piperlime’s Gap Inc., this fall will open a leap to brick-and-mortar marks yet 4,000-square-foot store at 121 another expansion — and the fast Wooster Street here, marking its growth of the omni-channel world, initial move into physical retailing be it Macy’s, Neiman Marcus or and the first of what could become Saks Fifth Avenue. a chain of stores. The goal of all these retailers Piperlime becomes the lat- is to reach the consumer wher- est online retailer to move into ever they are — online, in a store the world of brick-and-mortar — or on their smartphone or tablet Amazon.com is said to be looking device. The reason is a simple at locations for a store in Seattle, one: financial. Stephen I. Sadove, while sites such as eBay and Park chief executive officer of Saks & Bond have experimented with Inc., revealed at a Fashion Group pop-up shops. Gilt Group holds International seminar in March warehouse sales in several cities, that Saks’ omni-channel cus- including the Altman Building tomer spends about four times as here on May 18 and 19. much as the person just shopping Piperlime has never been one through the usual channels. to be constrained by strict defini- SEE PAGE 12 If These Clothes Could Talk

going to wear this?” She’s hold- By TAYLOR HARRIS ing a white J.Mendel gown with a plunging neckline, or, as she puts BEAUTY

“IF YOU THINK I want to be pho- it, “cut down to my belly button. A, AIM Brocade AT tographed on my 61st birthday with I can’t fit in it and B, I don’t go out a bunch of old clothes, you’d be to events in the city anymore. I just MAC

mistaken,” says Carolyne Roehm don’t live that life.” FOR on Monday. Still, the birthday girl She’s of course referring to the has obliged, and she, along with merry-go-round of front-row ap- her friend Nina Griscom, are hap- pearances, charity events and mis- MCKNIGHT pily rummaging through a rack in cellaneous fashion fetes, to which Or Bust RYAN

the middle of Roehm’s exquisitely both women’s attendance over the BY decorated living room inside her past three decades has been well- exquisitely decorated duplex on documented. “In the Eighties and Whoever said opulence is out hasn’t seen the pileup Manhattan’s Upper East Side. Nineties, I certainly lived a very of gleaming brocades for fall. Here, Chadwick MAKEUP “These pieces are beautiful but outward life,” says Roehm. “But we

Bell’s silk and cotton jacket worn with Karen Walker’s BEAUTY; just not age-appropriate anymore,” both live a pretty quiet one now,” Roehm continues. “Where am I SEE PAGE 4 wool and polyester dress layered over Carmen AIM Marc Valvo Collection’s acetate and polyester dress. AT For more on the trend, see wwd.com/fashion. RAMIREZ CESAR BY HAIR NATALIA/SUPREME; MODEL: PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE STYLED BY CATHERINE PERIDIS 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 WWD.COM Fossil Lowers Guidance, Shares Drop THE BRIEFING BOX “Continued weak economic ly eyed France’s new antiauster- IN TODAY’S WWD By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD conditions in Europe and parts ity president, François Hollande, of Asia, as well as the resultant and worried anew that Greece EURO JITTERS vexed global impact of certain product line ad- could tear up its bailout deal stock markets Tuesday, but Fossil justment were magnified in what with the European Union. Inc. took a direct hit after it is historically our lowest sales The CAC 40 in Paris led the warned of first-quarter sluggish- quarter of the year,” Kartsotis said. slide, falling 2.8 percent to ness in Europe and cut its annual “While certain geographies are 3,124.80, followed by the FTSE profit outlook. feeling economic pressure, there MIB in Milan, which was down Shares of the accessories and continues to be strong interest in 2.4 percent to close at 13,936.70. watch vendor fell 37.6 percent to watches and accessories and con- The DAX in Frankfurt sank 1.9 $78.52 as the S&P Retail Index siderable white space for us to pur- percent to 6,444.74, while the declined 1.1 percent, or 6.75 sue across our product categories.” FTSE 100 in London retreated points, to 629.44 and the Dow Kartsotis remained optimistic 1.8 percent to 5,554.55. Jones Industrial Average slipped about the firm’s jewelry collec- The decliners included Hugo back below 13,000, falling 0.6 per- tions, which include lines from Boss, which tumbled 4.1 percent cent, or 76.44 points, to 12,932.09. Michael Kors and Skagen. Fossil to 79.13 euros; Burberry Group, 3.8 Kosta Kartsotis, Fossil’s chair- said it expects to reach $30 mil- percent to 14.27 pounds; Luxottica man and chief executive officer, ad- lion in sales this year from Kors Group, 4 percent to 27.26 euros, Camilla Belle EICHNER mitted to analysts on a conference jewelry alone. and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis in Ralph Lauren at call that the firm was “not firing on For the first quarter ended Vuitton, 3.4 percent to 123.20 Prada’s Costume STEVE BY all cylinders” in the first quarter. March 31, Fossil posted a 5.2 per- euros. The euro traded at $1.30 Institute after party.

Fossil lowered its full-year cent increase in net income to $61.1 while the pound went for $1.62. PHOTO earnings guidance to between million, or 93 cents a diluted share The leader of the Greek left- $5.30 and $5.40 a share, down — 1 cent higher than analysts ex- wing party Syriza has three days Piperlime, owned by Gap Inc., this fall will open a from the $5.40 to $5.50 it projected pected. Quarterly sales increased to form a coalition government, 4,000-square-foot store at 121 Wooster Street in New earlier. Skagen Designs Ltd., ac- 9.8 percent to $589.5 million. and has vowed to back out of the York, marking its first move into physical retailing. PAGE 1 quired in January, is expected to Fossil’s troubles reverber- austerity deal that Greece bro- boost annual earnings by 22 cents ated in shares of Michael Kors kered with the EU last year and Nina Griscom and Carolyne Roehm are selling a a share, a benefit partially offset Holdings, which fell 5.3 percent to nationalize the country’s banks. large portion of their designer wardrobes from the by transaction costs of 15 cents a to $41.75, and Movado Group Inc., — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Eighties and Nineties. PAGE 1 share. Wall Street was looking for down 9.7 percent to $25.61. FROM SAMANTHA CONTI earnings per share of $5.56. In Europe, investors cautious- AND EVAN CLARK Euro jitters vexed global stock markets, but Fossil Inc. took a direct hit after it warned of first-quarter sluggishness in Europe and cut its annual profit outlook. PAGE 2

Nordstrom ranked highest in the Luxury Institute’s INTA Starts Anticounterfeiting Effort 2012 Luxury Consumer Experience Index. PAGE 2 rial, and visits to shopping malls By KRISTI ELLIS Gregg to inform consumers about the The International Trademark Association launched an Marrazzo potential harms of counterfeits. campaign to raise teen awareness about the negative WASHINGTON — The The INTA kicked off the impact counterfeits have on the global economy. PAGE 2 International Trademark outreach at the Walter E. Association, a group comprised Washington Convention Center While Dennis Basso and about 100 of his friends of major fashion and consumer here, inviting 100 area high lunched Tuesday at Doubles, models weaved through the product brands, launched an an- school students to a discussion tables showing off 60 looks from his fall line. PAGE 5 ticounterfeiting campaign at its on counterfeiting with execu- annual meeting here Tuesday tives from Estée Lauder, NBA A drop in worldwide production of organic cotton to raise awareness among teens Properties, Chanel Inc. and isn’t stopping Sweden’s Nudie Jeans from realizing its about the negative impact coun- the U.S. National Intellectual aspirations of marketing an all-organic denim line. PAGE 8 terfeits have on the global econo- Property Rights Coordination my and on brand owners, as well Center, in addition to a tour of More and more expatriates are starting their own design as the potential dangers to con- the exhibition hall where a sam- studios in major Chinese cities, with high-end children’s sumers’ health. ple of real products was on dis- wear a strong market. PAGE 8

The INTA’s new campaign, KOCH play with fake products. dubbed “Unreal,” plans to em- Alan Drewsen, executive di- The after parties following the Costume Institute gala phasize social media such as JONAH rector of INTA, said the cam- were filled with almost as many celebrities as the main Facebook, Twitter and YouTube BY paign will be launched in two event itself. PAGE 9 to reach a target audience of educational tiers: the first will 14- to 18-year-olds. It will also PHOTO highlight the low quality and un- Elle.com is in hiring mode, beginning with Amina Akhtar, utilize traditional media and numbers of the total losses to reliability of counterfeits and the who will succeed Keith Pollock as executive editor. PAGE 9 special events to educate teens trademark owners, the most second will focus on the severe about the negative consequences recent number available in consequences of counterfeiting, Rating agency Standard & Poor’s downgraded Avon’s of counterfeiting. an Organization for Economic which can involve child labor, corporate credit rating to “BBB-minus” from “BBB.” PAGE 11 “Many people, especially Cooperation & Development links to organized crime and se- young people, don’t really un- report covering 2008 to 2009 es- vere negative health impacts. ON WWD.COM derstand the impact of counter- timated the loss at $650 billion. “We see a tremendous op- feiting both on themselves as That estimate only focused on portunity for INTA to arm teens consumers, on the economy and cross-border sales of counterfeits with as much information about EYE: Prada’s official Costume Institute gala after party on the brand owners,” said Gregg and did not include online sales the economic, social and health at the Harry F. Sinclair House attracted Jessica Biel Marrazzo, president of INTA and of counterfeits or in-country risks involved with counterfeit- and Justin Timberlake, Emma Stone, Jessica Chastain, senior vice president and depu- sales of bogus goods. ing as possible,” said Drewsen. Sofia Vergara, Kirsten Dunst and Camilla Belle. ty general counsel of the Estée The campaign will include vid- “It is our hope that this infor- For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. Lauder Cos. Inc. “There is an eos of teens sharing real-life ex- mation will influence their de- economic aspect to this, as well amples of counterfeit purchases cision the next time they are as a safety aspect.” and how they were affected, de- approached by a site or vendor TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Although there are no exact velopment and educational mate- selling counterfeit goods.” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 96. WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: Nordstrom Tops Luxe Experience Index S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at NORDSTROM INC.’S intense New York with 8.23. Nordstrom we see that a program of continu- New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses focus on customer service seems was also the most widely visited ous improvement in the customer to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S to be paying off. luxe chain in the survey, with 36 experience can lead to higher WEAR DAILY, P.O. 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You will receive a full refund on Consumer Experience Index, a Only 6 percent had shopped at the Nordstrom shoppers sur- all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all survey that tracks U.S. shoppers Bergdorf ’s, while 7 percent made veyed planned to shop at the editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints earning at least $150,000 a year a trip to Barneys. chain again and 94 percent rec- of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at and takes into account a retail- “Retailers, especially in luxu- ommend the retailer to friends www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that er’s store personnel, shopping ry, are selling experiences to cus- and close family members. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at experience and the consumer’s tomers more than they are selling The people who participated P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED overall satisfaction. any particular good,” said Milton in the survey reported an aver- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Nordstrom scored 8.41 out Pedraza, chief executive officer age income of $292,000 and an UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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4 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012

If{Continued fromThese page one} Clothes Could Talk adds Griscom. Carolyne Regardless, the party pals’ Roehm, fashion vestiges still remain — 1993. until today, when they put most of them up for grabs at a cohost- ed, two-day private sale at the Regency Hotel. (Ten percent of the proceeds will go to charity: Africa Foundation for Griscom, and the Good Dog Foundation for Roehm.) That J.Mendel num- ber will be there, along with about 350 other pieces, includ- ing shoes, belts and handbags, from labels such as Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Scaasi,

Chanel, Hermès, Prada, Fendi and Burberry, just to name a few. Roehm and Griscom are pricing each item by hand, with tickets running from ’’ $75 for a pair of Ralph Lauren wool shorts to $15,000 for a sable coat. “It’s just criminal to keep these gor- Roehm, geous things you 1988. can’t wear any- more hanging in your closet,” Griscom says. “ L e t s o m e slim, young girl enjoy them.” The idea

L Galanos A, I can’t fi t coat, circa in it and 1995. Roehm B, I don’t go (left) and out to events Griscom

in the city Roehm,

Roehm, Roehm and 2005, in a anymore. I 1990. Oscar de la J.Mendel Renta, 1984. dress that just don’t live is being sold.

that life. — CAROLYNE ROEHM for the sale percolated, as many ingenuous plans do, over many glasses of wine. “Carolyne was ’’ over for dinner and we were just sitting out on the terrace afterward talking about how we don’t go out that much and are sort of done with the whole thing,” says Griscom. Roehm pipes in: “Ah, yes, that very drunken night!”’’ They admit the details are a bit blurry, but both agree it was Roehm who suggested the sale. “I just thought, brilliant! I’m on board.” Griscom says. Then came time to make some tough decisions: what to cast off and what to keep. “My them so why hoard them? It’s own clothes were the hard- just wasteful.” It’s just criminal to keep these est to part with, the clothes I Others were easier to let go, designed, ” Roehm says. “But such as ensembles with embar- what am I going to do? Be bur- rassing memories attached. gorgeous things you can’t wear ied with them?” The most diffi - Take, for instance, Roehm’s red cult discard for Griscom? “The lace Oscar de la Renta gown, anymore hanging in your closet. pieces from people who are circa 1976. She wore it on a very no longer here: Halston, Saint fancy fi rst date to a black-tie Let some slim, young girl enjoy them. Laurent. Their things still look event at The Plaza hotel. “I got modern but I just can’t fi t in it when I was working for Oscar — NINA GRISCOM ’’ WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 5 WWD.COM

with roots in beach culture, was acquired by Incipio Technologies FASHION Inc., which manufactures accessories and cases for cell SCOOPS phones and tablets. Tavik L Griscom’s offers apparel and accessory Azzedine MAKE IT A DOUBLE: While Dennis collections. Women’s apparel Alaïa jacket, Basso and about 100 of his friends focuses on swimwear, while circa 1985. lunched Tuesday at Doubles, men’s feature tops and bottoms If These Clothes Could Talk the private club at The Sherry- suitable for walking on the beach. Netherland hotel, models weaved The company was founded in through the tables showing off 60 2004. Terms of the deal were not looks from his fall line. disclosed. — VICKI M. YOUNG Knowing time was of the essence for some, Wendy Carduner STOKOMANI HAS NEW OWNER: helped keep things moving Advent International has sold along, whisking such guests as French discounter Stokomani to Star Jones, Pamela Fiori, Caroline private equity fi rm Sagard and Dean, Jamee Gregory, Somers Farkas, Stokomani’s management team. Amy Fine Collins and Dana Taylor to The terms of the deal were not their seats. With many having a disclosed, and the transaction proper catch-up or recapping is expected to close in June. Monday night’s Met ball, the The retailer, which operates 37 fi rst model to walk the room units, offers end-of-line products returned disappointed. “They’re in the apparel and beauty and all talking,” she said glumly. health care sectors. Stokomani Talk they did, but once the has doubled its size in fi ve years, beaded cocktail dresses and and has annual sales of 200 gowns sauntered by, they took million euros, or $260.3 million notice. Three friends in the crowd at current exchange. — Gigi Fisdell, Della Rounick and Frédéric Stolar, partner at Nina Ivana Trump — were at Basso’s very Sagard, said, Stokomani’s Griscom, fi rst show at the Regency Hotel business model is particularly 1981. in 1983. Seated at the head table, relevant given the economic Basso preferred to chat with his backdrop as consumers seek Griscom, 1982. gal pals (many of whom he has “quality goods at attractive known for 20-plus years) rather prices.” — V.M.Y. than make any formal remarks or go for the hard sell. But should MOVING SITES: Japan Fashion they have been tempted by more Week is preparing for a major than the strawberry shortcake, geographical shift to a new part they caught word that a three-day of Tokyo. Event organizers said trunk show gets under way today the offi cial venue for the spring- at his Madison Avenue boutique. summer shows, set to take — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG place the week of Oct. 15, will be located within a new retail GETTING SMART: By the fi rst and entertainment complex decade of this century, more called Shibuya Hikarie. Past than 50 percent of the world’s editions of the shows used Tokyo population was already living Midtown in Roppongi as a base. in cities and towns. But how do A couple seasons ago, sponsor we city dwellers/urbanites live? Mercedes-Benz opened a Couldn’t we be living better? showroom across the street from Not to mention smarter? Midtown to accommodate some

ARCHIVES A new book inspired by Smart shows and events. The Hikarie — that pint-sized two-seater that complex is set to open Thursday. makes urban parking, among Retailers that will have stores

FAIRCHILD other things, less of a chore — in present include Marc by Marc

AND says yes, 111 times over. “A Smart Jacobs, See by Chloé, United L Griscom’s Emanuel Ungaro top, circa 1985. Guide to Utopia,” published by Le Arrows and Bao Bao Issey Cool, Barcelona, outlines the said Miyake. — KELLY WETHERILLE EICHNER number of clever city concepts for Griscom,

STEVE better living, working, eating and GETTING INTIMATE: The tail end 1984. drinking, buying and playing from of couture week will see the cities round the world. Such as a opening of a Paris exhibition

PALMIERI, phone app (Love Clean London) honoring the French lingerie that allows citizens to photograph industry, tracing its evolution TONY and report litter offenses, graffi ti, from the creation of the country’s etc., directly to the appropriate corsetry industry in 1880 to today. city agency; cooperative work Lingerie Française, the French MOSKOWITZ, spaces (and indirect daily think association for the promotion of tanks) like Berlin’s Betahaus or corsetry industries, is organizing SONIA Budapest’s L’Offi ce in Berlin; the showcase, which will

WEISS, Lapin Kulta’s traveling, pop-up, chronicle the invention of the solar-powered, gourmet kitchen bra in the late 19th century and ERIC or Amsterdam’s Over Datum the arrival of sheer underwear BY Eetclub; shop concepts like on the market in the Seventies Unpackaged in London, where in response to the women’s ROEHM consumers don’t only bring liberation movement and the AND their own bags but Tupperware, sexual revolution. bottles or boxes to hold the loose “Women in the Seventies

GRISCOM goods, and playtime specials wanted invisible, light bras such as guerrilla swings (spotted that they couldn’t feel,” said in London and Austin, Texas) curator Catherine Ormen. To AQUINO; or urban camping in Antwerp, mount the show, she borrowed

JOHN Belgium, to name but a few. archive designs from Lingerie BY Limited to 4,000 copies, the Française’s 17 member Griscom and Bill Griscom, 1992. 160 page guide (in English) brands, including Aubade, Blass, 1991.

PORTRAIT carries a 24 euro, or $31.68, Barbara, Chantelle, Empreinte, price tag, and is available Implicite, Lejaby, Lou, Lise so it was a sample,” Roehm re- It was mortifying!” Roehm is at selected concept stores Charmel, Passionata, Princesse calls. “Back then, the way we erasing that memory, to the tune including Tate Modern London, Tam Tam and Simone Pérèle. got lace to stand up on samples of $500. Yvon Lambert Paris, McNally Vintage advertisements was to put hair spray on it and Other cringe-worthy mo- Jackson New York, Pro qm will accompany the items on iron it.” Post-party, there was ments can be attributed not to Berlin, and Motto Melbourne, display, showing the evolution a dearth of cabs so Roehm and experience, but to the trend Australia, as well as online via of women’s attitudes and her date took a horse-and-buggy alone. “There are definitely Amazon, lecoolbook.com and silhouettes across the eras. The ride. And then it started to rain. some very Eighties looks in the mottodistribution.com. show will run from July 5 to 26 “When I went to get out, the mix — shoulder pads much?” — MELISSA DRIER at the Espace Pierre Cardin whole dress lifted up with me Griscom says. “We all looked in Paris, before traveling to because it was stuck to my hand! like Cruella de Vil!” TAVIK SOLD: Tavik, a Southern London, Dubai and Shanghai. California music lifestyle brand — CAMILLA VOGT

8 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 WWD.COM

DENIM ChinaFile Nudie Gets All-Organic for Fall gram in which used jeans from By ARNOLD J. KARR the vendor were taken apart, Western Start-ups Go East their metallic components re- A DROP IN worldwide produc- moved and then reduced to their tion of organic cotton isn’t stop- essential cotton base fibers, pro- LAST WEEK AT BNC (a store vided life-skill training for ping Sweden’s Nudie Jeans from viding the fill for denim while in Beijing selling Chinese de- ChinaFile rural women in Northwestern realizing its aspirations of mar- organic fibers supplied the warp. signer stuff owned by yours China. They soon discovered keting an all-organic denim line. ISKO, Bossa and Orta Andalou truly), the highlight was when that these women can sew, so With help from five different were the Turkish denim suppli- Victoria Beckham came into the they designed Tang’Roulou to denim suppliers, three of them ers for the organic push, with ad- store with her kids and entou- help them generate income. in Turkey, and two jeans pro- ditional fabric coming from Italy’s rage! I was told that she picked Aside from Tang’Roulou, ducers, Nudie’s fall denim line Italdenim and Japan’s Kaihara. up some Tang’Roulou children’s there are two other children’s will be made entirely from 100 Blueline supplied the rigid jeans, wear for her kids. wear brands founded by percent organic cotton, the cul- with IdeaMode producing stretch Now Tang’Roulou is not de- French women: Shanghai Trio mination of a process that began jeans for the brand. signed by Chinese; rather it was and Rouge Baiser. Both also six years ago and had seen the Nudie’s organic embrace founded by a French couple liv- carry home furnishings such as organic percentage within the comes at a turbulent time in the ing in Beijing. However, it is defi- table top and bed linen. Rouge line top 60 percent for spring. world markets. A 47 percent drop nitely inspired by modern China. BY HUANG HUNG Baiser specializes in embroi- “Sustainability doesn’t stop in organic cotton production in Today, there are more and more dered material while Shanghai at fiber content,” said Palle India, the world’s largest pro- expatriates who start their own Trio has a range of traditional Stenberg, cofounder and chief ducer of the commodity, drove studios in major Chinese cities. Chinese cotton bed linens. executive officer of the Göteborg, down worldwide output last year In recent years, the French have Other expat businesses in- Sweden-based firm. “We’re using by about 35 percent, according really played a major role in the The biggest clude Mary Ching, a Chinese- nontoxic indigo dye, producing to Textile Exchange. However, high-end children’s wear market American who started her own labels with 100 percent organic Turkey, the second largest market with three brands: Tang’Roulou, problem shoe business in Shanghai. In paper, even using rivets and for the fiber, saw production rise Shanghai Trio and Rouge Baiser. addition, Suzhou Cobblers is zippers from raw ungalvanized 36 percent in the same period. This year, the international brands setting up another shoe brand started by copper. This is not only more en- Marco Lucietti, marketing direc- are all coming to China with chil- a Chinese-American woman vironmentally friendly, but the tor for ISKO, believes the increase dren’s wear from Kenzo, Dior living in Shanghai. ungalvanized trims age beauti- in Turkish production is “a reflec- and Armani. Classical children’s your own The biggest problem set- fully, and the denim does, too.” tion of the growth of the national brands such as Jacadi have been ting up your own design stu- Even with the move to or- textile and denim industry, where in China for much longer. design studio dio in China is Fapiao, the ganic, which carries higher proximity to the value chain, from Chinese wealth is among the official invoice issued by the raw material costs, Nudie has cotton production to ready-made youngest in the world and some Chinese tax authorities. Most been able to maintain its open- garments, is a key to winning and of the most wealthy are actu- in China is small businesses in China ally parents to toddlers. That and are not officially registered Palle Stenberg the single-child policy have pro- Fapiao, the and therefore cannot issue pelled retail volume of children’s Fapiao for their customers wear to grow at 21.2 percent in and wholesalers. major Chinese cities, according official invoice Quite a few young de- to a report published by China signers will ask friends who Investment Consultants. issued by the own registered businesses Some of China’s elite are al- in China to issue Fapiao for ready quite familiar with the three tax authorities. their merchandise. This is all French boutiques where high-end well and good provided your children’s wear is sold. Fei Wang, friend will eventually give a Chinese pop star, has also bought Tang’Roulou you the money. for her children. Still, there are more and more non-Chinese None of the boutiques are set up by industry who are starting their own businesses in fash- professionals. Take Tang’Roulou, for example: ion and design in China. It is wild, wild East The founders were charity workers who pro- after all.

ing retail price point of about adapting to a constantly changing Minnie Rose to Open Pop-up Shop $179. “The difference between consumer demand.” organic and nonorganic cotton ISKO is a unit of Sanko “We don’t like markdowns. We don’t like losing isn’t as considerable as people Holding AS and responsible for By LISA LOCKWOOD money. We don’t like our clothing being rolled perceive, only 10 to 15 percent,” about one-sixth of the parent over and merchandised poorly,” she said. She the ceo commented. “Margins firm’s annual revenues of about MINNIE ROSE, a contemporary cash- said the firm has an e-commerce site, which is are admittedly smaller, but the $3 billion. Between 10 and 15 mere and sportswear firm, is dipping building rapidly and is used for selling, test- prices remained the same. The percent of its products feature its toes into retailing. ing and exposure. reaction from retailers globally organic cotton, according to Next month, it will open its first Before starting her own company, has been extremely positive.” Lucietti, and another 10 percent store — a 400- to 500-square-foot Shaller-Goldberg ran a sales, mar- He emphasized that the shift include recycled yarns. Its move pop-up shop at The Montauk Beach keting and branding agency called didn’t take Nudie off the hook to embrace sustainability through House, the new hip hotel opening Simply Chic, where she repped from the other elements of com- alternative energies and lower on Long Island. “We’re partners such lines as Earl Jean, Hard peting in the worldwide jeans consumption of water and output with the hotel in the store. We’re Candy, Ugg Outerwear, True marketplace. “The fact that our of pollutants was in some ways a putting our people in and staff- Religion and Juicy Couture. Now, denim is organic should be a by-product of an act of nature: a ing it and sharing the profits,” said she oversees a company that em- bonus to already buying a pair 2003 earthquake completely de- Lisa Shaller-Goldberg, president of ploys 33 people, working with her of quality, well-fitting jeans,” he stroyed its previous plant in the Minnie Rose. The company will also husband, Scott Goldberg, who said. “The economic climate is city of Bursa, leading to its large outfit the waitstaff in Minnie Rose serves as vice president of public tough and price remains a sen- investment in a more environ- dresses. The shop will stay open relations and marketing. sitive point with consumers. We mentally friendly facility. through September. Minnie Rose has garnered a know that consumers are going “We expect to increase our Minnie Rose, which is no strang- lot of publicity for its ruffled cash- to look at the whole package be- percentage of organic cotton er to the Hamptons, already sells in mere shawl, especially after it was fore they make a purchase.” production,” Lucietti told WWD, such stores on the East End as Intermix, photographed on the Duchess of He does see opportunity with “but to do that we need a larger Gloria Jewel, Norahs, Summer Stock, Edit Cambridge shopping at the grocery retailers to demonstrate their market ready to buy organic cot- and Blue & Cream. store following her wedding. commitment to sustainable ton fabrics. We’re pushing on the The company, which began in 2006, has For holiday, Minnie Rose’s line products, the ranks of which ap- accelerator to make this happen, generated annual increases of 35 to 40 per- wholesales from $39 for a cotton and pear to be growing. and there’s no question that this cent a year, and this year is on track to increase Lycra tank to $368 for a Mongolian Nudie, founded in 2001, had project and others are helping to 40 percent, said Shaller-Goldberg. cashmere coat. The line, aimed at sales last year of about 36 mil- create momentum and visibility Minnie Rose generates about $15 A look women 17 to 85 years old, is manufac- lion euros, or $50.2 million at av- around sustainability.” million in wholesale volume. from tured in China. For holiday, Minnie erage exchange. Throughout its He recognizes there are Minnie Rose, known for its range Minnie Rose is also offering cashmere bottoms history, the company has aimed limits. “Change in the fashion of colors and styles, focuses en- Rose’s with suede pockets, cashmere and Lycra for a more sustainable approach business doesn’t happen in one tirely on specialty stores, selling holiday leggings, cotton Lycra bell pants and to its denim output and has en- day,” he said. “The market is not to such accounts around the coun- line. straight-leg skinny cashmere pants. listed the aid of Italy’s Blueline yet ready to pay a premium for try as Henri Bendel, Planet Blue, Overseas, the business is also gain- GOLDBERG Project, its primary jeans pro- sustainable products, so those Madison, Intermix, Edit, Ron Herman, Joan ing momentum. The firm sells in stores ducer, and, on the fabric end, products have to have the right SCOTT

Shepp, Neiman Marcus Direct and Saks Direct. in such markets as Israel, Dubai, Jordan, BY Turkey’s ISKO. For spring, ISKO, fashion, the right quality and Shaller-Goldberg said there are several rea- France, Italy, the U.K., Germany and in a project initiated by Nudie, the right price. Otherwise, the

sons why she doesn’t sell to department stores. Hong Kong. PHOTOS developed a recycled denim pro- consumer isn’t buying.” GREAT DANE Georg Jensen is in expansion mode. WWDSTYLE PAGE 11 MEMO PAD

JOINING ELLE: When former elle. com editorial director Keith Pollock decamped to Jason Binn’s new luxury venture, Du Jour, last On and On month, he took a few colleagues with him. So elle.com is in hiring mode, beginning with Amina Akhtar, NEW YORK — A Marchesa- who will succeed Pollock as executive editor. Akhtar comes clad Sofia Vergara, seen to the site from Fashionetc.com, entering the official post- where she served as fashion director. Prior to that, she was Costume Institute gala fashion editor at nymag.com, uptown fete, was just one where she launched the fashion of a pack of late-night blog The Cut. — AMY WICKS party hoppers following the OFFICIAL DATE: The new digital annual soiree. For more, platform for-stylish moms, Elizabethstreet.com, will make its see page 10. official debut today, just in time for Mother’s Day. Appropriately, it will feature motherhood coach and star of Bravo’s “Pregnant in Heels” Rosie Pope in its latest installment of “Mom Essentials,” where she will share her expertise on juggling a successful career and motherhood, as well as new mom Ivanka Trump, who will be similarly featured on the site on May 11. Following the introduction of an iPad app last November and a soft launch in mid-March, Elizabeth Street was the first of Emanuele Della Valle’s media properties to launch under his just more than one-year- old venture Mediabend Capital (it also owns LifestyleMirror, which launched in February). The app originally cost $4.99 a month when it came out six months ago, but there’s now a free basic version as well. “Besides the editorial component, which is incredible, is that this network of moms — which was once closed — has now opened,” Della Valle told WWD of the influx of submissions received for the “Be Our Next Mom” section. “We’re receiving them from all over the world. It’s an infinite network.” The official launch will also see the introduction of a new section “Little Pink Book,” a worldwide directory offering moms the best in shopping, restaurants, museums and outdoor parks by city, including versions tailored for New York, Los Angeles, London, Milan, Paris, Berlin, Hong Kong and Tokyo, with more to come by year’s end. — RACHEL STRUGATZ

CHOO HITS THE STREETS: Jimmy Choo is dipping its toe into the world of street style photography with a new site, Choo 24:7 Stylemakers, which is devoted to the brand’s Choo 24:7 collection of essential shoes and accessories. The site, at choo247.com, invites visitors to submit images of themselves wearing Jimmy Choo shoes and accessories in a way that illustrates their personal style. A selection of those images will then be featured on the site, which visitors can then like and share via social networking sites such as Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. Visitors can click on a link to shop similar styles to those in the images on Choo’s Web site. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER Meanwhile, Instagram images {Continued on page 11} 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Gala-Go-Round WWD.com/eye.

WHEN NEW YORK CITY MAYOR ally more-reserved designer Michael Bloomberg addressed was seen tapping her foot along the crowd at the Metropolitan rhythmically. Museum of Art on Monday night, Two blocks north, a less offi- he dubbed the Costume Institute cial after party was under way at gala the “The Oscars of the East.” Crown. Among the crowd dodging He had a point about fashion’s streamers and balloons in the biggest night of the year. The gala, restaurant’s dining room were which raised more than $11.5 Karolina Kurkova, Rachel Zoe, Jamie million, rivaled its Hollywood King, Jamie Tisch, Ashley Greene and equivalent in both fashion and Jessica Stam. The latter pair had verve. After a passionate rendi- changed from their respective tion of Puccini’s “Nessun Dorma” Donna Karan and Dior gowns Alexandra and by Italian tenor Vittorio Grigolo, into more after party appropriate Gary Oldman, both Bruno Mars rocked the Temple of short black cocktail numbers. in Prada, at the Dendur, which was decorated in “It’s easier to move around Sinclair House. the Surrealist style with a giant [in this],” Greene said, “though I lip projection and chairs uphol- loved my dress tonight.” stered in some of Prada’s most By 1 a.m., the restaurant began recognizable patterns. to empty seemingly as quickly as Mars recounted telling Anna it had filled. Many guests headed Wintour that he would like to have either to The Boom Boom Room an impossible conversation with or home to change. “Oh, I’ve got Michael Jackson, and pepper it an after party dress lined up,” with some Jay-Z and Kanye West. Kurkova grinned, “something “Maybe, just maybe, we would short, something black, you know, have come up something like an after party dress.” this,” he said, launching into a Technically, it was an after- Emma Stone in Lanvin funk medley that included The after party at The Boom Boom arriving at the Sinclair House. Police’s “Roxanne,” and Jackson’s Room, where the model joined “Dirty Diana,” among others. By a crowd of the night’s journey- the end, the entire room was on men and women as well as a few its feet dancing. more casually dressed additions. Laura and Kate Mulleavy with Garrett Hedlund in That spirit extended to the Beyoncé Knowles and sister Solange Prada and Kirsten Dunst in Rodarte at the Met. official after party at the Harry made a brief appearance. Banks, F. Sinclair House, where Miuccia who arrived with Alexander Wang Ashley Greene and Prada and Patrizio Bertelli roamed and his crew, was still in her cat Jessica Stam, both in the floors — at times holding makeup. Kristen Stewart, dressed Donna Karan, at Crown. hands — and were joined by Mick down by then in a leather jacket, Jagger and L’Wren Scott, Jessica Biel tried her hardest not to be and Justin Timberlake, Emma Stone, photographed upon her arrival Jessica Chastain, Sofia Vergara, Kirsten while Dunst danced with Garrett Dunst, Marc Jacobs and Suzy Menkes, Hedlund. Behind that pairing, who, in the spirit of Schiaparelli’s Scott danced on a banquette surrealism, wore a crushed red while Jagger shimmied below. soda can in her pompadour hair. Knicks forward Amar’e Stoudemire It was a hot party, literally. At one towered above the crowd, earn- point, gala cochair Carey Mulligan ing more than a few approaches pulled open a window, much to from playoff-mad fans. But as the delight of her fellow English with any marquee night at the actresses Michelle Dockery and Top of the Standard, the best Laura Carmichael, who joined sightings took a little work. her for a smoke. “Is that Gary Oldman?” a seem- Alicia Keyes was the first sur- ingly starstruck Ed Westwick asked prise performance, but it took no one in particular as he leaned Azealia Banks (in a feline getup against a railing to survey the replete with whiskers) to really club’s booths a little past the Karlie Kloss get the crowd going with some night’s peak. in Jason seriously wild dancing. Even It sure was, Ed. Wu at the Miuccia Prada herself couldn’t — MARC KARIMZADEH, Sinclair resist the vibe. During Banks’ ALESSANDRA CODINHA House. porn-tinged hit “212,” the usu- AND MATTHEW LYNCH eye KSW AND

Kanye West in EICHNER

Givenchy with M.I.A. Amar’e Stoudemire STEVE

in Stella McCartney in Calvin Klein BY at the Met. Collection at the Met. PHOTOS WWD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 11 WWD.COM Avon Earnings Prompt Downgrades MEMO PAD AVON PRODUCTS INC. continues to agency also cited ongoing costs tied to {Continued from page 9} deal with the fallout from a lackluster an investigation by the U.S. Securities tagged “#choo247” will also be first quarter. and Exchange Commission; new man- displayed in a ticker on the site. Those On Tuesday, rating agency Standard agement; operational issues in key images are interspersed with shots & Poor’s downgraded Avon’s corpo- markets, such as Brazil, and a lack of of celebrities wearing Jimmy Choo rate credit rating to “BBB-minus” from visibility on the company’s long-term on the red carpet and Jimmy Choo ad “BBB” and its short-term rating to “A-3” strategy as factors that will continue to campaign images. from “A-2,” due to the direct seller’s pressure sales and profitability. The brand has also tapped street weaker-than-expected operating results. “We believe a material operating style photographer Eddie Newton, of the On May 1, Avon reported that the turnaround over the next year will be site mrnewton.net, to shoot a number of company’s first-quarter profits slid 81.6 difficult,” added Hui. stylish types for the site. To represent percent to $26.5 million. The move comes less than a week London, Newton has shot Caroline Issa, the “Today’s rating action reflects the after Caris & Co. analyst Linda Bolton executive fashion director and publisher company’s continued weak operat- Weiser downgraded Avon to “Average” of Tank magazine, while model and ing results, with the March quarter from “Above Average,” citing “disas- actress Jessica Joffe represents New York. Coco Rocha in an ad for results weaker than expected and trous margins.” She also cut the price Newton has shot Issa and Joffe in their the Banana Republic margins considerably declining and target to $17 from $28 a share. respective locales, with both women Trina Turk collection. further deterioration of credit mea- Shares of Avon closed at $19.77, wearing the Choo 24:7 collection as they sures,” said Standard & Poor’s credit down 1.49 percent, on Tuesday. visit art galleries, lunch with friends or analyst Jacqueline Hui. The rating — MOLLY PRIOR stroll around the city. The brand plans struck sophisticated yet playful poses to reveal new ambassadors for cities as she lounged on a chaise in a long including Milan, Antwerp, Paris, Los dress in shades of reds and yellows. Angeles and Tokyo over the next year. In another shot, she’s perched on her — NINA JONES knees wearing a white jacket and flower Georg Jensen Eyes Growth print shorts, the Kaufmann pool and BANANA REPUBLIC’S YOUNG TURK: The mountains behind her. LONDON — The momentum at Danish Georg Jensen’s limited-edition ad campaign for the Banana Republic Prior to the collection’s launch in jewelry and homeware brand Georg Koppel watch in midnight blue. Trina Turk collection bowing on June 7 stores, Gilt Group will offer a presale of Jensen is building with an 8 percent has a gentle, retro feel. The capsule the items at full price. Banana Republic bounce in 2011 sales, beefed-up high-end collection features 60 items such as stores will host launch parties across product categories and a renewed focus dresses, shorts, accessories, sunglasses, the country on June 7. Turk said she’ll on hand craftsmanship. swimsuits and towels in her vibrant be at Banana Republic’s San Francisco In the year ended Dec. 31, revenue signature bold patterns. The campaign flagship on Grant Avenue. Simon Kneen, grew 8 percent to 914 million Danish kro- was photographed at the Richard Banana Republic creative director, said ner, or $164.5 million, while profits fell 29 Neutra-designed Kaufmann House in the ad campaign will be featured in percent to 6 million Danish kroner, or $1.1 Palm Springs and if the ghost of Slim print, online, direct mail and in store million, due to expenses from retail ex- Aarons comes to mind, it’s no accident. windows. “It’s been a real pleasure to pansion and executive hiring. “The Slim Aarons photo of ladies work with Trina,” he said. “We’re open Figures are converted at average ex- having drinks at the pool has been an to working together in the future. We’re change rates for the 12-month period. inspiration for our brand,” said Turk. looking for things that are unique to us.” Last year, the brand opened 25 stores Banana Republic model Coco Rocha — SHARON EDELSON and doubled the size of its shop-in-shop

on Harrods’ ground floor to 356 square KRASILNIKOFF PETER BY PHOTO feet. In November, it opened a new space at Bloomingdale’s luxury jewelry room in handmade sterling-silver designs New York. Retail accounts for 57 percent drawn from the brand’s archives, with of the business while wholesale, e-com- styles ranging from Art Nouveau to merce and travel retail make up the rest. midcentury Scandinavian and prices “This year, we are on track to continue up to $250,000 for a covered fish tray. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. our solid performance.·· We’ve worked a lot Members of the Jensen staff — includ- on our product categories, and the story ing one of the company’s 46 silversmiths now is all about growth,” said Ulrik Garde — travel the world with this collec- Due, the chief executive officer who spear- tion, hosting private sales and writing headed the company’s return to profit in bespoke orders. 2010 for the first time in a decade. Currently, clients can choose from Georg Jensen is a wholly owned sub- 75 handmade hammered silver designs sidiary of the Royal Scandinavia Group, ranging from Champagne bowls, goblets COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE whose majority shareholder is the pri- and candelabra designed in the Twenties, to Fifties pitchers and trays by the late de- CONTROLLER/FULL CHARGE vate equity fund Axcel. The fund also BOOKKEEPER owns another Danish homeware brand, signer Henning Koppel. Apparel Co seeks experienced motivat- ed candidate capable of managing Royal Copenhagen. Garde Due said the Jensen archive has cash flow, factors’ statements and data Garde Due acknowledged that the about 4,500 sketches, half of which have entry, A/c payable/payroll on Quickbooks, projections, etc. Send growth and changes at the company had never been put into production, so the Resume to [email protected]. attracted interest from potential inves- collection can only grow. All the pieces tors, although he declined to be specific. can be monogrammed and customized; one client in Asia asked for her silver PATTERNMAKER - WOVEN AND goblets to be dotted with her favorite pre- UPDATE KNIT TOPS/ BOTTOMS Major NY women’s update apparel mfg cious stone, rubies. “This collection is seeks production pattermaker w ex- After four years of a great way to project the brand and to tensive experience and knowledge of garment construction and ability to underscore the importance of craftsman- handle fast paced environment and ship to our DNA,” he said. participate in fittings. Experience with repositioning the Lectra software strongly preferred. Over the past year, the company has Competitive salary and benefits. Email also added pavé diamonds to its Fusion resumes to [email protected] business, we’ve made jewelry collection — propelling Georg Jensen into the high-end jewelry category Production Patternmaker a platform for future — and has unveiled a series of cuff brace- for Luxury Woven and Knit Apparel. Must be experienced in Digitizing, lets in yellow, white and rose gold, with Grading, and Marker Making using prices up to $135,000. Gerber. Please send resume and cover financial growth. letter to: [email protected] “We have been pushing up the price pyramid, but we also need to be seen as a — ULRIK GARDE DUE, VAULT INVENTORY MANAGER QUALITY CONTROL WANTED democratic brand, and the bottom part of PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Must be able to sew and understand PRODUCTIONS IPPOLITA. Exp in inventory manage- GEORG JENSEN ment in a manufacturing environment patterns must be able to instruct the pyramid brings in a whole new clien- Full service shop to the trade. factories and cut rooms. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 w/ large # SKU’s, pref jewelry. tele,” said Garde Due. Send resume to: [email protected] e mail: [email protected] “After four years of repositioning the busi- In April, at Milan’s Salone del Mobile, ness, we’ve made a platform for future fi- Georg Jensen unveiled Ilse, a collec- nancial growth. We’re a much more inter- tion of homeware by the London-based esting proposal today,” was all he would say. brand, interior and product designer Ilse Scandinavia and Asia-Pacific each Crawford, during a brunch at 10 Corso generate 42 percent of sales, with Como. In addition to stainless steel, Continental Europe kicking in 10 percent Crawford has used brass, glass and cop- and North America 6 percent. per — all new materials for Jensen — for Jewelry is the largest product category, the eight designs in the collection. accounting for 50 percent of sales, while Ilse will form part of the brand’s Home homeware generates 26 percent and collection, which it plans to push into watches 10 percent. Silverware and sea- more international markets. Currently, sonal items account for the balance. the Home collection sells chiefly in (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Among Jensen’s launches·· over the Scandinavia, Australia and the U.K. past year is the Ambassador Collection: — SAMANTHA CONTI 12 WwD WEDNESDAY, MAY 9, 2012 WWD.COM Piperlime Set to Launch First Store {Continued from page one} make Piperlime unique will of things to do for opening of its inventory would look like in a store Macy’s believes omni-channel retailing translate well to brick-and- Jennifer week, possibly exclusives and — even if only for five days. is a key to reaching the Millennial consum- mortar, like the mix of estab- Gosselin also events. “Our stores were for promotional er. “This will be the single-biggest purchas- lished and discovery brands, Marketing for the purposes,’’ said an eBay spokeswoman. ing group, bigger than the Baby Boomers.… with Milly, Frye and Citizens Piperlime store will be “They are not part of our business model. We must be the place of choice for this of Humanity representing the aligned to the Web site to As a global marketplace, we don’t own consumer,” Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s Inc. former, and Tinley Road, Ash keep the message consistent. any inventory. We do periodically host chairman, president and ceo, said last and Maison Scotch epitomiz- “The store most definitely be- limited-time physical experiences to il- month at the Global Retailing Conference ing little-known finds. comes a marketing vehicle,” luminate the type of inventory available at the Terry J. Lundgren Center for Piperlime carries more Gosselin said. “It is a signifi- on the marketplace from brands, retail- Retailing at the University of Arizona. than 500 apparel, footwear cant consumer touch point. ers and sellers of all sizes.” No wonder pure plays want a piece of and accessories brands for It has the ability to bring the Amazon could not be reached for com- By Sharon Edelson that omni-channel pie. men, women and children, brand and brand expression ment about its reported retail venture. “The store will have a women’s focus,” ranging from casual to de- to life for customers in a Web sites’ caution about omni-channel NEW YORK — Piperlime is joining said Jennifer Gosselin, senior vice presi- signer. “Obviously, the store more dimensional way. Our retailing perhaps stems from the fact that the rush from e-tail to retail. dent and general manager of Piperlime, is smaller than the site so goal is to serve her needs the concept is more than just the mar- The Web site, owned by Gap Inc., of the SoHo unit. “We will have clothing that gives us the opportunity across all channels.” riage of e-tailing and bricks-and-mortar. this fall will open a 4,000-square- and we’ll be showing our disproportion- to further hone the editing,” Piperlime will explore “It is so much more than a Web site and foot store at 121 Wooster Street ate love of shoes and accessories. There Gosselin said. “We’ll have an assortment new categories in the future. It’s also a store,” Peter Sachse, chief stores offi- here, marking its initial move into will be a mix of discovery and estab- that’s smaller on the site. We’re respond- working on how to introduce its guest cer of Macy’s said at last month’s Global physical retailing and the first lished brands across all categories. The ing to what the customer wants.” editor program created to “bring trends Retailing Conference of how the com- of what could become a chain of store gives us a great opportunity to cre- Technology will have a place in the from trusted style setters” into the store. pany is reinventing its assets with omni- stores. ate a multichannel or omni-channel ex- store, but “the focus is not on technology Piperlime was founded by Gap Inc. channel concepts. By early next year, he Piperlime becomes the latest on- perience, which is how we know our cus- for technology’s sake, but technology that in 2006. Gap reported net sales for the revealed, customers should be able to dig- line retailer to move into the world tomers are shopping today.” is a value-add for the customer,” Gosselin first quarter ended April 28 rose 6 per- itally pay their bills, scour customer re- of brick-and-mortar — Amazon.com said, adding that “service will be a real cent to $3.49 billion compared with $3.3 views, build shopping lists of store items is said to be looking at locations for focus in store. We’re hiring people who billion for the first quarter of last year. on Facebook and more as they are perus- a store in Seattle, while sites such exclusive embody the personality of the brand and Gap’s first-quarter comp sales, which in- ing merchandise at Macy’s locations. as eBay and Park & Bond have ex- are friendly and fashion involved.” clude the associated comparable online That’s not all. Sachse said virtual perimented with pop-up shops. Gilt In fact, Piperlime maintains a close Price points in the store will be similar sales, rose 4 percent compared with a 3 mannequins would be tested in the sec- Group holds warehouse sales in dialogue with its shoppers. It was cus- to those on the site. The site claims to offer percent drop in last year’s first quarter. tions Macy’s will devote to Millennial several cities, including the Altman tomers who whispered the idea of a phys- discovery brands for less than $50 and de- According to RetailSails, Piperlime and customers. “We will be able to change Building here on May 18 and 19. ical store into Piperlime’s proverbial ear. signer brands for more than $500. Recent Athleta in fiscal 2011 accounted for 2.1 that display based on the day part,” he Piperlime has never been one “Piperlime’s customer has been asking items on the site included a C&C California percent of Gap’s net sales of $14.55 bil- noted, adding, “Imagine if it is snowing, to be constrained by strict defini- us for a place where they can experience tank at the low end, $24, and an Elizabeth lion, up from 1.7 percent in 2010. and we would like to show you on that tions, having grown its business the brand,” Gosselin said. “We feel New and James Bianca silk top for $345. Dress This is not Piperlime’s first foray into virtual mannequin our best outerwear.” organically. When the e-commerce York is the perfect place.” prices started at $26.99 for Tinley Road’s brick-and-mortar retailing. The Web site In addition to the virtual mannequins, site bowed in 2006, it focused on Asked whether Piperlime will open lace detail dress and went up to $625 for in 2010 launched its first pop-up store in technology will facilitate what Macy’s has footwear and handbags. In 2009, it additional brick-and-mortar stores, Marc by Marc Jacobs’ taffeta Night Bird SoHo, which remained open for 25 days dubbed the “endless aisle.” By swiping branched out into apparel. Men’s Gosselin said, “We will follow her [the dress. “We’re always exploring in an ongo- overlapping with New York Fashion through the “endless aisle” on a tablet, cus- wear followed in 2011. Piperlime’s customer’s] lead in that regard. We’re al- ing way,” Gosselin said. “Exclusive product Week. Other e-commerce sites have dab- tomers will get to look at the variety of mer- leap to brick-and-mortar marks yet ways open to new things.” for Piperlime in the store will be similar to bled with physical retail in the form of chandise available at Macy’s beyond the another expansion — and the fast Gosselin added, “You’ll experience the site.” Piperlime last year collaborated temporary stores or pop-ups. Ebay in July physical store they might be shopping in at growth of the omni-channel world, the brand across all dimensions, see how with Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent, 2009 created a three-dimensional equiva- any given moment. “I can assure you the be it Macy’s, Neiman Marcus or looks have been put together and inter- B. Vintage, Rachel Pally and Ella Moss to lent of its online self in a 5,000-square-foot Tucson mall does not have the same kind Saks Fifth Avenue. act with sales associates.” launch four exclusive collections. Gosselin space on West 57th Street. Ebay said it of Michael Kors handbag assortment” that The goal of all these retailers is Gosselin said many of the elements that said the company is looking for a number wanted people to see what just a fraction there is in Herald Square, said Sachse.

Superdry to Open Times Square Flagship The new store is 14,000 square feet.

location on 58th Street and “Twelve weeks ago, this was By JEAN E. PALMIERI Lexington Avenue is scheduled two restaurants,” said Charles to open in August. Turlinski, chief executive officer NEW YORK — Superdry is “Times Square is the epicen- of Sunrise Brands, the compa- jumping headlong into the ter of New York’s bustling pace, ny’s U.S. licensee. “I’ve built 600 bright lights of the big city. unique style and energy,” said stores in my career and I never The U.K.-based specialty Michael Martens, president of thought this would be ready in store retailer will today open its Superdry USA. time. But it is.” largest North American unit to The Times Square retail Turlinski, who joined Sunrise chinsee date at 49th Street and Seventh lineup includes Forever 21, Brands in 2009, spent 11 years

Avenue in Times Square. The American Eagle Outfitters, MAC at Limited Brands. Sunrise, george 14,000-square-foot store is the Cosmetics and others. formerly the Tarrant Apparel by company’s third in New York, He said the store, which Group, also holds the license for following Broadway in NoHo will be open from 9 a.m. until American Rag, and produces pri- photos and South Street Seaport. A 1 a.m. daily, will “capitalize on vate label for companies includ- the late-night Broadway theater ing Express and Chico’s. It also grance, accessories and foot- Superdry is close to inking a deal crowd” as well as the hordes of produces the denim for Isaac wear, it will offer items exclu- for a 5,000-square-foot street- tourists and New Yorkers who Mizrahi as well as a new upscale sive to Times Square, such as level flagship in San Francisco, a walk through the area every outerwear brand, GET tin-tab T-shirts, knitwear, dress- short walk from its existing store day. The exterior will include a In addition to the compa- es and lightweight scarves. in the San Francisco Center. lit-up, rotating, 18-foot Superdry ny’s signature oversize jam jar For fall, Martens said, the Turlinski said when Superdry sign as well as an LED board chandeliers, the Times Square company will begin selling opened its first store in the U.S. that will continually run the store will feature a number of men’s blazers, pants, dress market in New York City, the company’s marketing campaign new design elements, includ- shirts and ties, as well as a more thought was to eventually have images. “We want to draw peo- ing an industrial bomb-light dressy women’s wear offer- 100 to 125 stores around the ple in,” he said. chandelier made from British ing. The men’s wear prices will country. “But as we’ve improved In an exclusive walk-through, factory lights salvaged from the range from $200 to $300 for blaz- our sourcing and reduced our Martens said this is the com- Forties, cubby-style cabinets ers and just less than $100 for sourcing costs, our pricing has pany’s first two-story location in to house the company’s denim wool pants to $30 for ties. moved closer to Abercrombie & the States and, as such, features offering, mannequins inside The company currently Fitch,” he said. “When we en- a dramatic steel and concrete glass vitrines to showcase pre- boasts sales of around $1,000 a tered the market, it was about staircase to lead shoppers from mium product, as well as triple square foot at its 10 U.S. stores, 25 percent above. So now we be- the 4,000-square-foot selling patchwork tables made from re- Turlinski said, and comparable- lieve we have the ability to enter space on the lower level to the claimed wood and an extensive store sales in the first quarter major malls, and if you have a 7,000 square feet on the second use of raw steel. The store will were up 50.1 percent. “The traf- good mall concept, you can have floor. Men’s and women’s wear use mannequins made in rusted fic here [Times Square] is three 400 to 500 stores.” will be co-merchandised on both wire and it will be the first to in- times that of the Broadway Among the markets Superdry floors, and there will be banks clude an area dedicated to the store,” Turlinski said, “so we’re hopes to enter are Miami, Boston of video screens on both levels, brand’s footwear collection. expecting sales per square foot and Chicago, Martens said. a merchandising technique that In addition to offering of at least that or more.” Superdry operates about 85 was pioneered at the Superdry Superdry’s men’s and women’s Plans call for more units stores in the U.K. and an addi- global flagship in London. apparel, denim, swimwear, fra- in the U.S. in coming years. tional 120 globally, Turlinski said.

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