Journal of the KwaZulu-Natal Institute for Architecture

KZ-NIA Journal · Issue 1/2003 · Volume No 28 · ISSN 0379-9301 Durban’s Architecture KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 1

Durban’s Art Deco Architecture Carlisle Castle and Vel-Vet Mansions which look as if they would be at home in Miami and then there are commercial Deco came to Durban blocks like Paruk Building, Jeena’s Centre and Moosa’s Buildings which have Art he city of Durban is one of the the play of light and shade upon Deco motifs in a rather more original free T busiest ports on the African geometric forms, and strong verti- style application sometimes incorporating This journal, now in its continent. Lying at latitude 30º cals and contrasting horizontals, novel elements borrowed from Classical or 28th year of publication, has south it has a warm sub-tropical they represented a new and exiting Egyptian sources. Even the modest homes since its inception been climate and is bounded by a region architecture. They were mainly of Clairwood took care to add oratory sponsored by Corobrik. blessed with a wide variety of flora apartment buildings that, although motifs of imaginative, and maybe religious and fauna. It has a large and poly- often described as “de luxe”, seem properties.

glot population with significant modest by today’s standards. Conclusions drawn from the Crown of The Palace, 211 Marine percentages of people from Apartments in Enterprise Building widespread appearance of Art Parade, 1990. Seitter Boyd African, Indian and were advertised as “one Deco architecture in Durban of the Architects KZ-NIA JOURNAL ·ISSUE 1/2003 European backgrounds. minute from the City hall – thirties must reflect on the possi- LEFT: Bel-Aire, 151 Snell Parade, 1956. Reginald C Buck VOL 28 · ISSN 0379-9301 The port grew under £5.5/- per month – whilst in bility that it was a vehicle of disas- BELOW: SBDC (Business Partners), British colonial steward- 1935 the recently complet- sociation from the prevailing Editorial Board Brian Johnson · Patricia Emmett 23 Jan Hofmeyr Road, Westville, Ivor Daniel · Angela Baker · Dennis Claude ship during the mid nine- ed Broadwindsor with its establishment. It is likely that the 1984. Hallen Theron & Partners Editor Walter Peters · Assistant Ted Tollman teenth century, and devel- bay views offered “...two promoters represented groups Design Maria Criticos oped a conservative set of room suites de luxe with The towering cranes of Broadwindsor, 7 . disenchanted by local class-con- values that lasted for over a sleeping porch.” Quiet, no Rendering by Andrew Verster on cover of NPIA sciousness, snobbery and intellec- Published by the Journal 4/1986. hundred years. Even today, Griffon (top) and eagle flanked by two fasces children, servicing and, tual arrogance; that they had the KwaZulu-Natal Institute for Architecture it is half-jokingly referred to on Enterprise Building. curiously in a sub-tropical Could this be a wry comment on an abrasive funds and the will to show their 160 Bulwer Road, Glenwood, Durban 4001 Telephone: (031) 201-7590 as “The last outpost of the British Empire.” The climate, with central heating, all for £8.10/- in or parsimonious client? feelings by adopting an architec- Fax: (031) 201-7586 prevailing atmosphere was “British” and the contemporary terms. However it was in the work of William B ture that was in direct contrast to E-mail: [email protected] architecture was either in the neo-Classical tra- By the mid thirties the dynamic lines and Barboure that sub-tropical Deco found its the established canons – a topic Website: dition, as seen in the journals, or Union Style, a flying finials of Broadwindsor indicated that apotheosis. Surrey Mansions is an eight storey for further research. http://www.saia.org.za/kznia/home.htm blend of classic and Cape Dutch elements as architects were beginning to look more to local apartment building sited on the Berea over- World War II saw the end of an era in promoted by the Public Works Department to imagery for inspiration. This found full expres- looking the city. With two block-like base floors many ways, including the arrival and symbolise the recent Act of Union. sion in a number of buildings but none more so it rises a further five floors with rounded cor- acceptance of the Modern Movement. Editorial It therefore seems curious that in the year than the somewhat bizarre animal forms inter- ners and finds resolution in a squared-off This was supposed to be ‘functional, the stage where it is now 1931, as the slump bit deeply into the economy, spersed amongst geometric motifs on Victoria upper portion. Fluted giant order pilasters rise direct, clean and undecorated.’ But the becoming acceptable to add Durban’s Art Deco heritage is being rediscov- a strangely different building appeared in the Mansions. The fish and flying lion forms and the full height to a crenellated parapet, and the urge to enrich our architecture died hard enrichment or decoration ered. Following on from the 7th World Congress central city. This was Enterprise Building an especially the vultures add a note of surrealist openings and string courses are enriched with and cropped up in unexpected places. In simply for the love of it. on Art Deco held in Cape Town, the Durban eight-storey apartment block and it was humour to the composition. detailing of sensitivity and imagination. At the upheavals subsequent to the Even a hostel for indigent Art Deco Society (www.durbandeco.org), enriched in a way totally alien to the pre- high-level winged lions proudly survey the Nationalist Party victory of 1948, the women in downtown which is affiliated to the International Coalition vailing canons. Finished in stucco, as all Enterprise Building, 47–53 Aliwal Street, 1932. scene below. Ndebele people adopted a highly charac- Durban has cautiously AA Ritchie McKinlay. of Art Deco Societies, managed to land the Durban Art Deco buildings are, it owed In the meantime the marginalized communi- teristic architecture as a means of self- Thokoza Women’s Hostel, added some small Deco Post-Congress meeting in Durban, the epicen- nothing whatsoever to the stodgy neo- ty of Indian origin that had suffered decades of identification in an alien environment and Grey Street. Elevation to touches, whilst in the eight- tre of South African Art Deco. Classic or neo-Cape Dutch interpretations discrimination had pulled itself up from insti- it can be legitimately argued that this rep- Dartnell Crescent. ies The Palace on the sea In promoting the meeting, and the focus on that were the ruling canon of the day. Rich tutionalised poverty into a position where ele- resents the re-appearance of an Art Deco archi- front demonstrated a veritable plethora of Durban’s Art Deco heritage in particular, in angular geometric relief, stylised Mayan ments of economic independence were emerg- tecture. The concept of using traditional tribal structural bravura, simply as a celebration of Dennis Claude, who had attended the 6th heads and with a superb eagle form over ing. It comes as no surprise therefore to note design was cautiously adopted by local archi- forms in space. So the basic tenets of Art Deco, World congress in Tulsa, USA, proffered a proj- the entrance it boasted all the motifs that that many of the buildings in the “Indian” tecture, and the mid-fifties saw the appearance or sub-Tropical Deco as we may call it, came to ect on Durban’s Art Deco for 4yr students of were later to be labelled as classic Art quarter adopted Art Deco motifs, even those of an apartment block on the sea front with South Africa, have survived and continue to Architecture, a project mentored during the 2nd Deco. But it also had stylised Roman fasces designed by “European” architects. There are decorative patterns based upon Zulu bead- develop and explore new avenues. semester of 2002, together with the editor. The (symbols of Roman authority) framing the charming examples like the cluster in Carlisle work and worked in glass mosaics. Interest was re-awakened in the detailing of following guides are the result of Dennis’s per- door, symbols the Italian Fascists adopted Street with well-scaled small blocks named A further thirty years were to pass before the entrance to the SBDC/Business Partners sonal involvement and the students’ efforts. and who had already been in power for architecture had Building and subsequently an entertainment This is however not the first time the results eight years. Could this indicate a sympa- worked through and hotel complex near the sea front – Sun of student projects on Durban’s Deco are being thy on the part of the owner? Clearly, no the “isms” up to Coast Casino & Entertainment World. A good documented. Interested readers are referred to one at the time could see the future and deal of creative thinking went into the process, the articles in Plan No. 10, 1975; NPIA Journal there must have been interest in what was but one thing was decided in principle: it 1/1987; and the article by Dennis Claude in happening in Italy. The Natal Mercury of would have an Art Deco theme! This did not NIA Journal 3/4 1992. July 17, 1935 had an article – “What mean plagiarising designs from earlier times Having retired after 18 years of full-time Fascism has done for Italy – A great work but the creation of new themes and new topics teaching in 1994, Dennis Claude has not of National regeneration.” Ironic. consistent with the approaches and methods stopped enthusing both students and the pub- Over the following eight years numer- which made Art Deco such a comprehensive lic at large for the cause of Durban’s architec- ous Art Deco buildings appeared all over and vital design language. tural heritage. I am most grateful for his con- the city. In the “European” section names Dennis Claude, Guest Editor COVER MONTAGE: Clockwise from left: Surrey Mansions – 323 Currie Road; Victoria tinuing involvement in the education of future like Court, Court Mansions – 124 Victoria Embankment; Broadwindsor – 7 Broad Street; Vel-Vet Mansions – Dennis Claude presented this paper (edited here) at the 6th architects and guest-editing this issue. and Hollywood Court clearly indicated a 51 Carlisle Street; Osman’s, Moosa’s Buildings – cnr Grey Street and Commercial Road; World Congress on Art Deco held at Tulsa, Oklahoma, Walter Peters, Editor source of influence. With the emphasis on Abubaker – 162-172 Queen Street, cnr Grey Street. 18–23 April 2001. – Editor 2 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 3

Durban’s Art Deco Architecture Inventory of Durban’s Deco Buildings

CENTRAL DURBAN C8. ENTERPRISE C22. THE CENOTAPH, G10. 114–118 VICTORIA Memorial Tower Building (at right, and panel insets) – C1. BROADWINDSOR, BUILDING, Gardiner Street, on Francis STREET. Durban’s landmark Art Deco . 7 Broad Street cnr Victoria 47 Aliwal Street. Farewell Square. Hobbs & Bonieux, 1936. Embankment AARitchie McKinley, 1931. Eagle, Pilkington & G11. VICTORIA W C Moffat & Hirst, 1935. C9. McINTOSH HOUSE, McQueen, Cape Town, COURT, 117 Victoria C2. MANHATTAN 455–457 West Street. 1921. Competition-winning Street,1940 COURT, 11 Broad Street. C10. BALES BUILDING, entry completed in 1926. G12. EMPIRE COURT, AG Frolich, 1937 436 West Street. C23. HOLLYWOOD 256 –260 Grey Street cnr C3. PLYMOUTH HOE, C11. COURT, Beatrice Street. B5 B4 45 Broad Street. PREFCOR HOUSE, 197 Smith Street. G13. AZIZ MANSIONS, S.Patrake, 1936, for L Moon. formerly PAYNE BROS, Hobbs & Bonieux, 1937. 101–103 Queen Street B6 C31 Alterations by Hirst & 398 West Street. C24. GARVOCK, 10 –18 G14. EBRAHIM B3 Simpson, 1962 C12. CHESTER HOUSE, Umbilo Road. COURT, 49 –59 Prince C4. NORDIC COURT, 398 West Street. C25. ALBANY HOTEL, Edward Street. B9 B12 55 Broad Street. C13. CLICKS, 225 Smith Street cnr G15. DOMINION B7 Architect unknown, c1933. 390 West Street. Albany Grove COURT, 61 Beatrice Street. Addition by AG Frolich, C14. 388 WEST, C26. 26 UMBILO ROAD G16. 69/71 BEATRICE 1938; additional floor 388 West Street. Street Wilson & Paton, 1925 STREET B8 added by Frolich & Kass, C15. ADAMS C27. ESCOMBE COURT, B Jeet, 1939. B11 1947. BOOKSELLERS, 29 Umbilo Road. G17. 54 LORNE STREET C5. BROADWAY 341 West Street. C28. G18. SHARDA NIVAS, C34 B1 COURT, 57 Broad Street C16. COLONIAL 42/ 44 UMBILO ROAD. 64 Prince Edward Street, B2 cnr St Georges Street. MUTUAL BUILDING, C29. RYDER COURT, 1940. AG Frolich, 1934, for 330 West Street. 638 Umbilo Road. G19. SAYED’S B10 PE PRorvick. Elsworth, Hennesey & B.Cullinane, 1936. MANSION, 66 Prince C6. WILLERN COURT, Hennesey, Sydney, 1931–33. C30. ARBY COURT, Edward Street. 157 Victoria Embankment. C17. QUADRANT 146 Umbilo Road. G20. PATEL’S G1-34 William Barboure, 1937. HOUSE, William Barboure, 1940. BUILDING, 67 Prince B14 B22 B23 C7. VICTORIA cnr Gardiner Street & C31. 677 UMGENI Edward Street, 1937. B24 B29 25 MANSIONS, Victoria Embankment. ROAD G21. 73 PRINCE B34 B35 B31 B21 Craig Hudson B33 B27 B20 C15 124 Victoria Embankment. W. Street-Wilson, Architect See also Nos. 677 and 687, EDWARD STREET B32 C14 C21 B17 C12 C22 C16 C20 Nelson Secombe, 1935. C18. 25 WINDER which have notable W B Barboure, for the B13 C10 C13 B22. CHELMORE, B19 B16 C11 C19 STREET parapets. Hattia Trust, 1933–4. B18 C9 C23 C25 C24 C19. C32. 374 SYDNEY G22. 94 PRINCE 527 Moore Road B26 B15 C8 C17 C5 C7 550 POINT ROAD ROAD EDWARD STREET A.Holds (?), 1938 C4 C6 C18 B23. C3 C20. METROPOLE, 106 C33. 437 – 447 SYDNEY G23. 95 PRINCE DEO VOLANTE, C26 C2 C27 C1 Smith Street. ROAD EDWARD STREET, 1935 B35 5 Woodburn Place, 1939–40 C29 C28 C21. HERONMERE, cnr C34. ALTHEA COURT G24. ARBEE MANSION, G34. CARLISLE B9. McCORD HOSPITAL, B24. ALDER COURT, B35 C30 Smith and Stanger Streets. 109 Somtseu Road, cnr 102 Prince Edward Street, Snell Parade. 1940 CASTLE, 53 Carlisle Street. 28 McCord Road, Overport. 7 Woodburn Place, 1940. B34 G25. ABAD COURT, W J Cornelius, September B10. LOWRY'S B25. PAVO COURT, GREY STREET 125/127 Prince Edward 1940. CORNER, Corner 15 Woodburn Place, 1940. B28 PRECINCT Street. Similar to Vel-Vet Musgrave and Silverton B26. KINTYRE, G1. BANAIDOO’S W J Cornelius,1930. Mansions. Roads. 152 Clark Road B30 BUILDING, G26. ESSOP MOOSA B11. CARN BREA, B27. MOUNT VERNA, 178 Grey Street, 1937. BUILDING, 129 Prince BEREA NORTH 238 St Thomas' Road, 1939. 400 Clark Road. G2. ABOOBAKER Edward Street, 1935. B1. SURREY B12. JUBILEE COURT, Obel & Frolich, 1939. MANSIONS, G27. HIMAT COURT, MANSIONS, 323 Currie 63-93 Clarence Road. B28. MOUNT ROYAL, cnr Grey & Queen Streets, 134/136 Prince Edward Road. 15 Dunkirk Place 1937. Street. Langton & Barboure BEREA SOUTH B29. MINLEY COURT, G3. VAGASHREE J E Jessel Drawing (William B Barboure), 1937. B13. 125 BEREA ROAD. 138 Manning Road. MANSIONS, Office,1942. B2. ASTRA COURT, B14. BEREA COURT, N M Grant, 1938. 113–115 Victoria Street, G28. AVNI COURT, 138 163 Musgrave Road. 399 Berea Road. B30. ABERCORN, 1927. Prince Edward Street, 1935. Roger Cooke & L T Obel, Langton & Barboure, 1937. 13 Sycamore Road, 1937. C32 G4. MOOSA’S G29. ISMAIL’S 1937. B15. MOORLANDS, B31. CAMBORNE, C33 BUILDINGS, BUILDING, 145 Prince B3. ST AUGUSTINE’S 158 Moore Road. 40 Bulwer Road. cnr Grey Street and Edward Street, 1930. MANSIONS, 440 B16. 162 MOORE Hobbs & Bonieux, 1937. Commercial Road. G30. NM EBRAHIM Musgrave Road. ROAD. B32. ELLAN VANNIN, G5. 222–224 GREY BUILDING, 19 Cross Street, Geoffrey le Seuer, 1929 B17. STANMERE, 62 Bulwer Road STREET 1931 B4. CHEVIOT COURT, 175 Moore Road; H F Sparks. G6. 232 GREY STREET G31. BEREA VIEW, cnr Musgrave Road & B18. CREIGHTON, B33. ALGWEN, 72 Related to 222–224 Grey 43 Carlisle Street. Poynton Place, 1940s 184 Moore Road; & Chelmsford Road Street. G32. MOUNT VIEW, B5. ST AUBYN COURT, B19. SHANNON, 188 William B Barboure, 1938. G7. 9 SHORT STREET 45 Carlisle Street. Musgrave Road, 1940's. Moore Road. B34. HOWARD Backs up G24 with arcade. (Twin of Berea View). B6. AINSLIE COURT, B20. SANTA MARIA, COLLEGE, King George V G8. JEENA‘S CENTRE, G33. VEL-VET Musgrave Road, 1940's 187 Moore Road. Avenue. 162–170 Victoria Street. MANSIONS, B7. CONNISTON Hobbs & Bonieux, 1951 William Hirst, 1930. W J Cornelius, 1927. 51 Carlisle Street.. COURT, 526 Currie Road, B21. RAYLEIGH, B35. MEMORIAL G9. SONI NATHOO 1950. 214 Moore Road TOWER BUILDING, C7 DEVJEE BUILDING, B8. CLYSEN COURT, Robert Mowe, 1950. King George V Avenue. 120 Victoria Street, 1937. 48 Clyde Avenue. Powers & Powers, 1946. 4 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 5

Durban’s Art Deco Architecture Central Durban C11 C12 C13 C14 C16 City centres have long been associated with a a burgeoning affluent society which, through show of both political and economic values, the increase in ocean-liner travel, could C15 and the ostentation that often accompanies indulge in excursions to exotic destinations. C22 this, gave Art Deco, with its abundance of dec- Quadrant House at 115 Victoria Embankment C10 orative detail, an opportunity for expression. is a well-maintained example of Spanish Deco The inception of Art Deco was strongly style, complete with a decorative element that C25 C23

Source: Drawings’ Collection, Biermann Architecture Library C9 influenced by the rapid changes in popular resembles a sea-shell. Formerly a residence for social culture that predominated the ‘jazz-age’ the Merchant Navy’s cadets, it now houses the C8 or the ‘roaring ‘20s’ that followed WW1, with corporate headquarters of a shipping line and the rapid economic changes satirically reflect- its associated companies. C7 ed by novelist F. Scott Fitzgerald. The image of The influence of Miami Art Deco is evident C5 C17 wealth associated with the times and hence in Willern Court at 157–159 Victoria Embank- C4 with the Art Deco movement is evident, for ment, where the tropically themed stained C6 example, in the use of coins as a decorative glass panel is a contextual decorative compan- motif. ion to the adjacent tall palm trees. Victoria C1 Two buildings encapsulate the image of eco- Mansions at 124 Victoria Embankment, with its nomic and political power, Enterprise Building vertical pilasters that rise through an arcuated at 47–53 Aliwal Street, and Colonial Mutual first floor, also draws from its waterfront con- Building at 330 West Street. Both make use of text in its Art Deco decorative elements. This is Gothic and Romanesque derived elements, as evident in the nautical, marine-animal and fan- well as chevrons associated with the jazz-age tastical decorative elements, as well as the popular culture. The reference to historical glazed panel above the entrance that com- styles relies on the fact that Gothic and memorates the Union Castle mail ships. Romanesque buildings are imbued with a Nonetheless, Victoria Mansions does not sense of trust in their longevity as well as the escape the eclecticism within Art Deco, as it strength that they symbolised. Add to this, the has a set of winged lions and eagles that resem- sculpted lions, a political symbol associated ble icons used by the Italian fascists. with the British colonial regimen of old. The The Albany Hotel at 225 Smith Street, is symbolic simulation that occurs between the positioned adjacent to the Playhouse and the inclusion of the culturally entrenched and pop- Prince’s Theatre (incorporated in the ular culture, hints at the notion that the archi- Playhouse) and could have provided a venue tecture of financial buildings had begun to use for the burgeoning café and theatrical society the eclecticism of Art Deco to broaden its of the time, with its ground floor café. The C6 appeal to the public. The Art Deco building architectural representation of the hanging could be seen as an architectural billboard that folds of stage curtains, which was evident in communicated values early American Art Deco buildings, is also The use of the bird motif is widespread in present on the corner façade of the base of the central Durban, for example Victoria Mansions Albany Hotel. This creates a strong architectur- at 124 Victoria Embankment and Broad- al-theatrical dialogue with the adjacent windsor at 7 Broad Street. The sources of this Playhouse building. The café society as theatri- motif are manifold, being adopted by cal event is simulated through the exaggerated C7 Mussolini as a fascist symbol as well as being scale of the drapes and the exotic Mayan- influ- related to exotic tribal cultures. However, the enced vertical elements that frame, and there- abstraction of the Broadwindsor eagles could fore monumentalise this theme. be more akin to the image of prestige of the Courtney Hart, Rakshni Moodley spires of the , through their stylised image of their vertically soaring wings. Due to the setting of Durban’s Esplanade, adjacent the harbour and original beach- front, themes were drawn from both Mediterranean and sub-tropical Deco influ- ences. Art Deco had C16 C16 C16 C17 C25 become associated with 6 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 7

Durban’s Art Deco Architecture

Grey Street Precinct CARLISLE G33 G31 G34 G32 The evolution of the Grey Street precinct or the the economic status of the developers and part- line the parapets of many of the buildings, ‘Indian CBD’ dates back to the early 1870s ly due to the policies at the time whereby large especially those on corner sites. when shop and shack settlements were estab- corporations invested in the white central Grey Street became the prime business and lished on the unoccupied land along the north- Durban, where tall buildings such as Colonial residential area of the Indian sector of the western fringe of central Durban. Mutual began marking the skyline. Durban City center, and also the educational, BEATRICE STREET The area took its name from the main street, ‘Indo-African Deco’ is the phrase we chose cultural and business heart of the Natal Indian G16 G12 G15 Grey Street, after Sir George Grey, the Cape to describe the fusion of Indian and African community. Indian busineses flourished dur- Governor who acting on behalf of a group of details evident in many of the buildings in the ing the period of the Second World War and Natal farmers, initiated the process of recruit- Grey Street precinct, derived from the Indian much of their economic growth took place dur- ing labourers from India. On expiry of their developers freely expressing their economic ing this period. indentures, many of these moved to Durban, as independence. This Deco variant metamor- Subsequent to the passage of the Group did ‘passenger’ Indians who settled in the area, phoses elements of Indian and Islamic archi- Areas Act (no. 41 of 1950), the Grey Street area G7 stretching from Queen Street to Greyville Race tecture, with a rhythmical multiplication of became proclaimed a ‘controlled area’ in 1957, G28 G27 G24 G22 G19 G18 Course bounded by the railway line on the east round or horseshoe arches, single and coupled and declared an Indian business area in 1973. and West Street cemetery on the west. columns, balcony balustrade walls with open- The effect brought a freezing of all develop- The streetscapes are marked by colonnades ings, often resembling Union Jack ments within the area, unless special permis- G29 G26 G25 G23 G21 G20 G14 and arcades which surmount the pavement designs. Detailing is geometric, sion had been obtained from the Minister of G30 and balconies above, many of which have perhaps due to the Moslem Community Development. As a result, build- G8 G9 G10 become enclosed. Traditionally the ground ban on human and ani- ing activity ceased, paradoxically preserving floor was given over to retail facilities with mal representation, the architecture as a Deco district for us to now G11 G3 residential accommodation above. and horizontal enjoy. G1 Behind this front, narrow lanes, bands stream- Charlene Pillay, Gareth Davies courts and light wells gave access to a veritable maze of accom- G2 G13 modation. G4 Building activity peaked between the 1930s and 1945, and many buildings carry on their facades the owner’s names (e.g. Jeena’s Court, Devshi Court, and Valjee Buildings) as well as the year of construction. Most buildings G24 are two or three-storied, corresponding with a characteristic of medieval towns: high density, low rise, mixed -use. The low rise development is partly due to G24 G10 G27

G25 G26

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Durban’s Art Deco Architecture Berea

The rich and varied detailing of Art Deco archi- In South Berea, a unique Art Deco ‘precinct’ the motif of an eagle’s wings are proudly tecture on the Berea is a reflection of the origi- is located in Woodburn Place, tucked away off spread. Further along Umbilo Road, we find nality and complexity which went into the Bulwer Road. Here, four different apartment Geoffrey le Seuer’s Garvock Building, a design of many of these ‘classics’. Buildings buildings were built in a row, all in Art Deco solid looking apartment block, richly deco- which were previously designed in a ‘British’ style. They are less mainstream in their com- rated and noted for its concave coved termi- atmosphere in the neo-Classical tradition, or in plexity of design and are toned down when nation, in essence an Egyptian architectural B12 the Union Style, a blend of Cape Dutch and clas- compared to Surrey Mansions, but as a group element. sical elements, were now embellished with geo- they make this lane a special place in Berea’s The Art Deco examples of Berea are of a B32 metric patterns stylised from Egyptian and architectural heritage. Bearing names Ellan very high standard. They reflect the vibran- Mayan themes as well as motifs of animals – Vannin, Deo Volente, Alder Court and Pavo cy and excitement of the times and the effect with icons of eagles and vultures having been Court, they capture themes such as sunbursts that global trends have had on our culture recently popularised by the opening of and sea shells which were popular in Miami at and city. Tutankhamun’s sarcophagus. Strong verticals the time, and are painted in various pinks, Justin Caramanus were the order of the day, often terminating past blues and yellows. B1 the last horizontal lines of the buildings in some At the highest point on the Berea we splendorous detailing, reaching into the sky. find Memorial Tower Building on the The Berea is roughly divided in two, split by Natal University campus, standing B24 the 1960s freeway canyon which enters and proud and tall and bearing exits town underneath Tollgate bridge, so strong geometrical signs named because people had to pay a toll to found in Mayan ruins. enter town. Astride this is busy Berea Road, Next to this is another running east-west on either side of the freeway, rich Art Deco example the context of Berea Court, a multi-storey – Howard College. B14 apartment building with excellent detailing, The interior of the B25 designed for the Langton family by architects rotunda is in a collec- B24 B23 Langton & Barboure in 1937. A stylised theme tion of different B32 B20 of wings is evident in the design, and lion fig- themes, ranging from B19 B17 ures have been used to much success. a nautical expression B18 In North Berea we find examples such as with ship’s railings to B16 B15 Surrey Mansions, designed by William B the geometric floor Barboure, also in 1937, with rich detailing in pattern, to sea shells various layers of stucco relief, recalling the and other nature- intricacy given the patterns found on Egyptian inspired elements and Mayan tombs. Rounded corners soften found in such fine B35 this multi-storey apartment block and wonder- details as the central B34 ful African lions with wings (griffons) adorn skylight and intricate- the three major elevations at high level. Further ly cast door handles. north, we find Cheviot Court in Musgrave In Umbilo Road we Road, the streamlined form of this building find the Mount Royal, resembling the new forms of ocean liners, an apartment block automobiles and trains of the time. On the cor- with a unique project- ner of Argyle and Musgrave Roads is Ainsdale ing triangular win- Court, with a marvellous entrance drawing on dow feature above the powerful Mayan geometric forms. entrance, above which

B34

B14 Source: Drawings’ Collection, Biermann Architecture Library Berea Court depicted in this colour woodblock print by John Roome.

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Durban’s Art Deco Architecture Durban’s Art Deco Architecture Art Deco Interiors & Accessories Details Regionally Responsive

Typical for Durban were marine motifs, open space that should give the impression of which show the sea with ships or the harbour. a bigger and brighter space than usual in other These images often appeared in stained glass 2 apartments during that time. When stepping of circular windows, resembling the porthole out of the lift one finds oneself standing in the windows of ships. Indian influences abound in foyer that seems higher than it in fact is the decoration of buildings around the Grey because of the roof light. On either side of the Street area due to the high percentage of Indian foyer a stepped and splayed arch leads to the people living there. private rooms of the apartment. The form of Motifs, which were typical in several kinds the arch connotes a bigger space by rising of Art Deco decoration are the sunburst, often upwards. This was a common characteristic in applied to doors and facades as a sign for a Art Deco architecture. Sometimes architects new beginning, and streamlines which are a even designed ‘fake’ storeys to make the build- sign of speed and modernness, and therefore ing appear higher e.g. Surrey Mansions (by Coloured glass motif of sailing boats window in often found in car design or modern artifacts Langton and Barboure) in Currie Rd. This was entrance foyer of Willern Court. such as radios. to impress and to awe the people who looked Art Deco in interior decoration is not only up at the ‘skyscraper’. about the decoration of furniture and acces- It is difficult to say who the designers and sories such as door handles, lamps, windows craftspeople were, but it is established that the etc. It is also about the creation of a different number of people who were working in kind of space in the apartments. There is the Durban in the field of decorative interior crafts B14 B1 example of the very well preserved penthouse increased significantly during the period from in Berea Court that shows the intention of the 1928 until 1945. Durban has a sub-tropical climate, which no precinct, an area organically settled by people architect (William B. Barboure) to create a more Durban is a city that was strongly influenced doubt has contributed to the development of a of Indian descent. This extends our definition robust tradition of construction that mitigates Bottom: Light switch by Art Deco, possibly because it wanted to C7 of Durban Deco to include the vital and, in with stepped cover have an identity of its own alongside the strong in favour of strong, straightforward materials many cases, charming addition of voluptuous surround. influence of the British. Many Art Deco interi- like brick, plaster and reinforced concrete. This forms and eclectic detailing that resulted. Zig- Left; Recess for milk ors can still be found, some in a poor condition is no place for timber filigree, unprotected met- zag and chevron detailing sits happily along- bottles, Berea Court. als or any design that embodies slender sec- side the complex curves of gables that provide Below: Door furniture that await restoration. tions. Nevertheless, the skills developed by composed of backplate Anke Obenland a backdrop to verandas that reach over the of stepped rectangles Ms Obenland is an exchange student from Universität Edwardian artisans were readily applied to the sidewalks, supported by columns bearing Boat in foreground of Durban’s Bluff. Porthole with consistent handle, Stuttgart who is spending 2002/03 at Natal. –Editor. stucco and brick detailing that the Art Deco traces of Classical or Egyptian heritage. Hindu window of penthouse of Berea Court. Ellan Vannin. architects required. and Islamic motifs occur on spandrels whilst 1. The proprietory name for a synthetic resin formed by the Art Deco interior designs differ little condensation of phenols and formaldehyde, used as a sunburst patterns illuminate from above. from the Art Deco architecture. They plastic and for insulating purposes, named after its inven- World War ll put an end to all this and we subscribe to the same background and tor, LH Baekeland (Shorter Oxford Dictionary). C7 have had to wait sixty years to see the revival principles, except for the materials used. 2. Stained glass: Glass-painting is the term commonly used of interest in the Deco movement. for the art by which windows are filled with ‘stained However, there were other factors in the While the architects used conventional Dennis Claude glass’. As a rule such windows are built up of panels not equation. There was the fascination with materials like glass, brick, stone, con- too big for convenience in handling, composed of pieces of African fauna and this stimulated the appear- crete and plaster, the interior designers, glass either dyed in its substance or superficially coloured, ance of a unique range of animal forms that especially the furniture designers (who set together in a framework usually cropped up as stucco enrichment to the Deco were usually also excellent craftsmen) Pendant light fitting in penthouse of Berea of lead, to form decorative or pictori- Court. Note also the roof light above and the al design (Oxford Arts Dictionary). forms on many buildings. Eagles and used rare and expensive materials, like stepped and splayed archway in the back- antelopes maintain a vigil from the heights of Macassar Ebony timbers, mother-of- Fretted frieze on bathroom wall ground right. . and elaborate bath foot on che- Colonial Mutual Building. Lions abound, dor- pearl/abalone, ivory, tortoiseshell, lac- quered tiles, Berea Court. mant at the Cenotaph, alert on Berea Court and quer, sharkskin or snakeskin, to deco- winged aloft on Surrey Mansions, metamor- rate their exclusive and high quality phosing into the griffons* of Enterprise build- designs. Later on, with the beginning of ing or Victoria Mansions that share the facades mass production, the materials also with fantastical fish and other legendary tended to be ‘modern’ eg chromium beasts. Serious vulture-like figures guard the plated or Bakelite 1. entrance to Victoria Mansions whilst Like Art Deco architecture, interior Pendant light fitting of coloured Broadwindsor is crowned with a pair of tower- design was also often based on the glass, Berea Court. ing cranes seeking the sky above. transformation of motifs from past centuries eg Then there was the cultural infusion injected Gothic, Baroque or Medieval into the present. by the rapid development of the Grey Street And it was also able to accommodate orna- mental influences from historic, ethnic or reli- * Mythical animals typically having the head and gious motifs or ancient arts and cultures like wings of an eagle and the body and tail of a lion. Also Egyptian, Aztec, Japanese, Moroccan, Native Visual C16 spelled griffon or gryphon. (Ching, F A American or African. Dictionary of Architecture ) 71 Beatrice Street. 12 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 13

Durban’s Art Deco Architecture 2 6

Sun Coast Casino & Entertainment World 5

8 Since early on, the Natal Command headquar- landscaped parking spaces are provided, with 4 3 ters terminated the northern extent of a secondary entrance from the north. These Durban’s beachfront development. Beyond entrances terminate an L-shaped promenade

1 10 this, the city leased parts e.g. Village Green with the two arms containing the 7000sq m 11 where a masonry proscenium and tented hall casino replete with salon prive and private gam- 8 provided a much used venue; Animal Farm ing rooms. To the south of the promenade are 7 9 and Battery Beach pools (see NPIA Journal the 8 cinemas, the largest of which seats 500, as 1/1989). When the leases expired, this site was well as fast-food outlets. The knuckle of the ‘L’ identified for a casino and these developments accommodates a food court where a series of were demolished. escalators link to the first floor conference facil- Ground Floor Plan Bidding began in 1997 and protracted legal ities; and on the east, a series of restaurants 1 West Entrance battles followed. Finally in December 2001 open to terraces that face the ocean. Here the 2 North Entrance construction commenced and the first phase dunes have been re-established and give direct 3 Gaming Area was opened a year later. The second phase access to the beach. The basement is given over 4 Smokers’ Casino which fronts the beach and includes cinemas, to servicing, administration and parking; the 5 Salon Prive is to open in July 2003, and the final phase is to roof is a series of vaulted metal roofs. 6 Private Gaming Rooms incorporate a 160-bed hotel. Sun Coast Casino The talking point of this development is the 7 Cinemas is thus the biggest single private-sector invest- exterior, an Art Deco ‘decorated shed’. This 8 Restaurants ment ever undertaken on Durban’s beachfront. theme was proposed by the American ‘them- 9 Childrens’ Games Room Any entertainment complex on such a site ing architects’, allegedly to extend Durban’s 10 Food Court should attempt to link the city with the beach, Deco legacy, and thereby to revive interest in 11 Amphitheatre as this concept does, albeit in Phase 2. The this heritage – which fortunately is happening. main entrance is from the west, where 2000 Thus the 45 colours to the Casino exterior and the 2.5 km of neon tubing – two small items in the budget of R1.4 billion! Architects MDS Architecture (Formerly Margoles Dukes & Smith), Johannesburg (Graeme Smith; Sean Pearce) and Langa Makhanya & Associates cc, Durban Concept Architects Creative Kingdom Inc, USA Main Contractors Grinaker-LTA Sivukile Joint Venture View Northward. Snell Parade veers inland (to left) allowing the Casino an uninterrupted link to the beach.

West Elevation Umhlanga Rocks

Sun Coast Casino

North Elevation

Snell Parade

Natal Command 14 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 15

News News Alan Lipman D Arch (honoris causa) (Natal) 2002 Corobrik Student of School of Architecture, Bachelor of Architectural Studies the Year University of Natal Year 1 Barrie Biermann Prize: Marco Riemensberger 148 Burnham Rd, Clare Hills; and the At a function held at Durban’s Royal Hotel on Year 2 Gordon Small Prize: Mrs Erica Coskey Bughwan Family house (1960) at 76 Hartley ■ PROGRAMMES’ DIRECTOR Friday, 7th March, Christiaan van Niekerk of Year 3 Calvert McDonald Prize: Simbareshe Bako Rd, Overport. Mrs Alethea Duncan-Brown has been the University of Pretoria was announced 2002 Bachelor of Architecture (Advanced) In 1948 he had interrupted his Architectural appointed Programmes’ Director for both the Corobrik Architectural Student of the Year. Year 1 (4) Clement Fridjhon Prize: Ms Tiffany Murray studies to serve as a volunteer during Israel’s BAS and BArch degree Programmes for one The jurors for this 16th national Award Year 2 (5) SN Tomkin Prize: Suhail Ballim War of Independence; in 1963 he found himself year beginning 1st March 2003. event, Messrs Jeremy Rose (Mashanbane Rose David Haddon Prize banned in his own country and unable to ■ Architects, Johannesburg), Mpethi Morojele 2003 PRIZE-GIVING CEREMONY The SAIA and Association of SA Quantity teach. Together with his wife, Beate, he went (MMA Architects (formerly Margoles Dukes & At the Prize-Giving ceremony of the Built Surveyors Prize which commemorates the into political exile in the United Kingdom, Smith), Johannesburg) and Dean Jay (Dean Jay Environment Disciplines held on campus on untimely death of the national President of the where he accepted a lectureship in Monday, 31st March, the following KZ-NIA combined organisations, David Haddon House Bughwan, 76 Hartley Road, 1960. Architecture at the University of Wales, & Associates, Durban) cited that Van Niekerk’s Site Plan: So concerned was the young tyros that he prizes for the best students in each Year were (1905–59) – who also held the unique distinc- Cardiff. There he was appointed to a Personal Design Dissertation ‘Extraneous’ had “sur- persuaded the owners to acquire a portion of the neigh- passed in detail of architectural resolution and awarded by the President, Mr Mohideen tion of being elected to that high office on 3 bouring property for reasons of orientation. Architect: Chair, served as Dean of the Faculty for six clarity of presentation” the submissions by the Abdul Gafoor: occasions – is dedicated to the Best Student in Alan Lipman. years, and retired in 1989 as Emeritus Professor. five other Universities. the subject Professional Practice. This year the While in Wales Lipman completed his mas- The prize money for 2002 recipient is BArch student, Ms Lindsay Nunes. ter's degree and doctorate, the latter in amounted to R27 500! Geoffrey Le Sueur Scholarship Sociology at University College, Cardiff, as a Preceding the an- This prestigious travel scholarship could this part-time student. He then launched a ground- breakirig course in ‘Human Studies in nouncement, Don year be awarded two BArch graduates: Ms House Meer, 148 Burnwood Road, Clare Hills, 1960. In Albert, Natal Regional Shannon Roydon-Turner who wishes to Architecture’ at the Welsh School. Together the contemporaneous Brazilian mode, the residence has recipient of 1994, present- explore the Brazilian town of Curitiba; and with colleagues in Sociology and Applied a splayed front to the bedroom wing, suspended on Psychology, the course focused on applying pilotis. Architects: Bernard Janks, Green & Lipman. ed his competition win- David Louis who intends studying the archi- Architect & Builder Section: The mono-pitched roofs of House Meer combine tecture of Eastern Europe. social, cultural, psychological and physiologi- ning Millennium Tower a butterfly section with a split level and a clerestory. on Durban’s Bluff. Brian Bernstein Scholarship cal – or ergonomic – studies to architectural After receiving the bound report from the work. This directed students' attention to both various Editorial Boards and has contributed Left to right: Chairman of the inaugural recipient, Ms Mizan Rambhoros, on societal and individual consequences of build- some 180 published articles. jury, Jeremy Rose; Corobrik behalf of the family, Prof Ted Tollman present- ing design, an innovative concept recognised The practice of Alan Lipman & Henry Paine Architectural Student of the ed the 2nd Bernstein Travel Scholarship to BAS Photo from below: by the Board of Education of the Royal Architects concerns itself with what Lipman Year 2002, Christaan van Prompted by the severe fall of the site the elevational graduate Ms Jodi Davids, who has made the Institute of British Architects. It resulted in par- regards as ‘socially acceptable commissions’. Source–drawings and photographs: Niekerk; and Corobrik photograph automatically became perspectival. allel developments at Schools of Architecture These include a communication suite for the Managing Director, Peter de upliftment of underprivileged youth a person- Trevou. al mission. At the 2003 graduation ceremony of the Faculty of as far afield as Australia, Sri Lanka, Spain and Congress of South African Trade Unions; a pri- Sherwood-Bond Bursary Community & Development Disciplines of the North America, as well as in Britain. mary school in Turnahole, Parys; a neighbour- OBITUARIES ment in his adopted city, the Jessie Birss 1926–2003 Former librarian of the Barrie Biermann University of Natal, an honorary doctorate in Visiting professorships in India, Australasia, hood health clinic in Kagiso, Krugersdorp; a writer of an obituary in a local A graduate in both Architecture Architecture Library, Mrs Hazel Bond, present- Architecture was conferred upon Alan Lipman. the United States, and in Kitwe, Zambia, fol- head office for the National Union of Metal Brian Summerton lowed. More than 35 Masters and PhD theses Workers of South Africa in Newtown, 1941–2002 newspaper* could and Town Planning at ed the 2003 bursary to final Year BAS student The following is extracted from the laudation: While a student at the Univer- conclude: “Our city Natal, Jessie Maya Birss Ms Nandipha Baduza. Architect, designer, academic, writer-critic and were awarded, over three decades, in this field Johannesburg; and the Workers' Museum and sity of Port Elizabeth, Brian needs more Brian worked on the ‘Holford Garth Moyes Prize for Good Fellowship sociologist: Alan Lipman has brought a unique under his supervision. Resource Centre, also in Newtown. The last Plan’ (Durban 1985) Summerton began working with Summertons, commit- This award in memory of Garth Moyes interdisciplinary approach to architecture that On his return to South Africa in 1990 and named earned two coveted architectural ted citizens who before commencing as a the local practice Steenkamp, (1970–94), a 4th Year student who died sud- has had a substantial impact on architectural after taking early retirement at the age of 64, awards: the Conservation Merit Award for serve, self-effacingly Senior Lecturer at her Harris & Partners. Immediately denly, is awarded annually to the student iden- education and on the built environment. Lipman spent nine more active years in uni- 1995 and the Award of Excellence for 1995/96, and without any alma mater from which on graduating in 1975, he was tified by the 4th Year class as having con- After 26 years in exile following his banning versity teaching, first serving as Visiting both conferred by the Institute of South African dispatched as Director of the objective other than to she retired in 1987. tributed most to good fellowship. The Award in terms of the Suppression of Communism Professor of Architecture at the University of Architects. He has been a juror of national and Pietermaritzburg office of that make it better for all; Jessie was the first for the class of 2002 went to Aveshen Pillay. Act, Lipman returned in 1990 to the challenges Natal in Durban. In addition, he continued to international architectural competitions, and practice, which in the meanwhile citizens who are full of hope and woman to be elected to the of a new South Africa. These he engaged con- carry out research and long-term consultancy was called upon to evaluate the Cato Manor had been restyled as Interplan optimism and give support to the Provincial Committee of this ■ 2003 GRADUATION structively, by communicating his pioneering for both official and informal community-ori- project for its European Union sponsors (2000). Architects. Involved first with leadership of the city, even if they Institute, serving two consecutive At the graduation ceremony of the Faculty of entated organisations in South Africa, includ- Lipman currently acts as design mentor for the buildings utilitarian in nature, may not always agree with the terms 1976–77 and 78–79. She concepts of community architecture and advo- Community and Development Disciplines of Brian Summerton left decisions made; citi- loved to travel and explore the cacy planning to a wide audience. He has led ing the Commission on Restitution of Land Africa Centre for Population Studies & the University of Natal, held on Tuesday, 1st his mark in the restora- zens who find the city world of architecture, having a by example, providing senior mentoring, juror Rights where he was Research Consultant to Maternal Health at Somkhele, a rural area in tion of numerous histor- enjoyable as a place of special penchant for the study of April, the following degrees in Architecture and advisory consultancies, many in Kwa- the Regional Land Rights Commissioner of KwaZulu-Natal. ical buildings of Pieter- life and work and are urban settlements in history. were conferred: Zulu-Natal. Gauteng, until January 1998. The University of Natal honours Alan prepared to make a Having gained a reputation maritzburg: Alexandra Bachelor of Architectural Studies Lipman was sent to Durban Lipman writes architectural Lipman for his architectural capabilities as a meaningful contribu- for language punctiliousness, she Road Police Station, Among the 27 graduates, the degrees of Messrs in 1953, as a young architect columns for various journals and designer, academic and writer-critic, for his tion to its welfare”. became for many years proof- Town Hill Hospital, var- Simbarashe Bako and Ross Smyth were con- popular newspapers in a deter- deep integrity; for his excellence in the Brian is sorely reader of this Journal, unfortu- who had completed his BArch ious Voortrekker cot- ferred cum laude. at Witwatersrand University, mined effort to popularise social, enhancement of academic learning; and in pro- tages, the City Hall, missed by his family nately only to learn that in mat- Bachelor of Architecture (Advanced) to open a branch office. spatial and architectural issues, and moting the progress of human society. Main Post Office and the Legisla- and friends, and all at Interplan. ters English, architects were no Linda Norton and Louis Grové better than students! Among the 36 graduates, the degrees of Messrs Buildings that remain today he maintains an annual rate of four tive Assembly. In receiving the degree, Alan Lipman joined the following list of Suhayl Ballim and Naeem Cassim were con- that were designed by him to five serious papers, many on Due to his ability as an archi- *Layman, A City loses an avid sup- Walter Peters, Editor honorary graduates in Architecture of the University of Natal: ferred cum laude and that of Ms Leonie Mervis tect and the community involve- porter. The Mirror, 8th January 2003 include West Walk (1958); the community architecture and advo- Prof Ronald Lewcock, 1998; Revel Fox, 1993; James Walton, 1987; summa cum laude. Meer Family house (1960) at cacy planning. He has served on and Lord William Holford, 1957. –Editor 16 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 KZ-NIA Journal 1/2003 17

here is intimately bound up Silver, Bamboo, Clay and Tin. bus, another by flat bottomed sampan along an with the stuff. Building sites Tube or Tunnel houses, the inland waterway, two hour hike through thick and inter-city roads are literally result of a sensible policy of bamboo forests to the holiest shrine in North raised above the flood plain levying rates and taxes on street Vietnam. A huge cave with an 8m stalactite (or with plinths of stone. Even frontage, can be four or six levels is that mite?) considered a Buddha in it’s own bodies are buried in shrines above the street and only two to right by the faithful. above ground to escape the three meters wide. A hundred We overnight trained to Sapa in the north- ATravel Diary interminable ebb and flow of hotels with spotless, double- west corner of the country, close to both Laos the water table. roomed, airconned, bathroom- and China, and trekked through terraced rice Vietnam Water also features in the city of Hanoi ed, bar-fridged, and satellite TVed for about paddies to hill tribe villages of the Red Dzao which is built around several lakes, the central $10 a night. one being Hoan Kiem (below). We headed for The quarter is ‘Green’ in every sense of the ietnam occupies the eastern strip of the the Old Quarter which hugs the northern half word. Humidity that makes Durban feel like V South East Asian peninsular, about of the lake while the new colonial/modern city the Karoo, familiar flamboyants (Delonix Regia 2500km long and no more than a few hundred has been constructed to the south. au Madagascar) crowd the narrow streets, light kilometres wide in the middle. Ho Chi Min The Old Quarter is a hive of small streets and green fern-like foliage and tell tale crimson Colonial baroque buildings behind heavy wrought iron pickets and green manicured lawns. City/Saigon is the main narrower lanes jam-packed flowers, every conceivable pavement nook and southern city and the home of with traders, coffee shops, ven- balcony ledge sporting massive blue and white and the Black Humong (top right). Vietnam is SOCIALIST – modern, modulated, sun-screen- the American occupation. Hot dors selling almost anything, glazed ceramic pots with plants and bonsai dominated by the Kung tribe – modern ed, sharp-lined, concrete administrative build- most of the year, hectic and buildings and street poles fes- trees of every shape and size, cascading orchids Vietnamese – (85%) who historically occupy ings, schools, and hospitals, gone black with busy. Hanoi, our chosen desti- tooned liberally with the irre- from 2nd and 3rd level balconies, massive the flat, low, wet lands. The hills along the mould and neglect, always offset by the ever- nation, is the more sedentary descent Vietnamese Flag (red strangler-figs announcing the position of the western and Northern borders are home to present flag. northern sister, cultural and with a yellow 5 pointed star). numerous buddist pagodas (Temples are places about 25 minorities, many of whom are POST SOCIALIST – colourful, exuberant, stain- administrative capital and Roads are clogged with the of learning – Pagodas, places of worship). refugees and spill-overs from China, Thailand, less steel balustraded kitch, highly decorated, home of the Vietcong, made ubiquitous Honda that seems Across the lake, the other city, with wide Cambodia and Laos. complex plaster mouldings, rounded lines, famous by Jane Fonda’s visit to have become the vehicle of French streets, treed open pavements, violent A ‘luxury’ over night bus took us south romantic and affluent. and radio announcements at choice for the young in so ochre-orange colonial-baroque buildings through the DMZ, the military Vietnam has fought wars against the height of the Vietnam war. many asian cities. We counted behind heavy wrought iron pickets and green border between North and South, the Chinese, French, Cambodians (the American war according as many as five people on a manicured lawns, cheek by jowl with mod- a 200 kilometers wide band where and Americans and has yet to be to the locals) single motorcycle! Crossing the narrowest ernist austere unadorned gunmetal grey con- nothing grows – a tropical waste- defeated. Emerging only recently From the air the first thing you notice is street becomes a supreme test of faith – look crete edifices memorialising this or that, land thanks to the millions of gal- from years of distrustful, insular water, lots of it – massive meandering rivers, straight ahead and walk, slowly. built no doubt with money from the Soviet lons of Napalm and Agent Orange socialist malaise the economy is countless flooded rice paddies and from the Streets in the quarter are named after the Union in the 60s and 70s. In between and dished out during the war. We booming. Massive infra-structural ground it becomes doubly clear that existence predominant product traded there – Silk, alongside all this, the Vietnamese people, stayed in Hoi An, a delightful, laid projects are underway – four- ever industrious, friendly, overly back fishing village with ancient lane highways replacing two- trusting and open. wooden houses built lane mountain There are few Americans on by Japanese traders, paths, huge resort the street but the US dollar is romantic waterside hotels scarring king and buys anything and pavement cafes and mountainsides – and everything. Counterfeit music at nearby MySon, the it becomes clear from CDs from China for a Dollar, 1200 year old Cham these that the current Woollies quality red ‘T’ shirts dynasty Hindu tem- vision for tourism in with the yellow star for the same, ple ruins built interestingly out the country has been bor- sweet black coffee, cheap draft of brick rowed from southern neigh- beer, meals of charred veggies on Popular building seemed to bour, Thailand. Perhaps the noodles and paper-thin spring fall into three distinct time/ war with the Americans may rolls, silk suits made in under style zones. ultimately be lost on the altar four hours for the price of a pair PRE-SOCIALIST – quaint, ochre of globalism. Good-luck of Diesel boxers, fine bamboo and and turquoise painted vernac- Vietnam! laquerware to feast one’s eyes on. ular houses, unadorned, sim- Derek van Heerden Shop till you drop! ple, with practical emphasis Derek and Sharon van Heerden We day tripped to the Perfume on ventilation, decorative slots visited Vietnam a second time Pagoda (top right), an hour by and vents. around in September 2002. –Editor