WWD.COM Christian Dior Not Seeing Red

By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

CHRISTIAN DIOR DENIED Wednesday that it is planning to make red-soled shoes for next season — a bit of news that may come as a relief to Christian Louboutin, who owns the red-sole trademark and has gone to court to defend it. The denial contradicts published reports that a Dior salesper- son told a Louboutin private investigator that the company would launch a collection of red shoes with red soles. “Christian Dior does not manufacture and sell any shoes with a red sole,” a Dior spokeswoman told WWD Wednesday. The Purposeful Shopper According to court papers fi led Tuesday, Louboutin hired a pri- Value and Quality Drive the New Consumer vate eye in connection with a lawsuit against Yves Saint Laurent over whether its all-red pump infringes upon the red-sole mark. Louboutin’s lawyer, Harley Lewin of McCarter & English, said that he Great Recession took such a toll on the things you really admire.” a report by the New York Post “implied” that his client would press economy that despite a slower-than-expected Kantar Retail’s Frank Badillo, senior economist, charges against Dior, a notion that is “not accurate and not true.” move toward recovery, it looks like consumers agrees that the recession prompted shoppers to engage Alleged inaccuracies aside, papers fi led on behalf of Lewin seek T a preliminary injunction of the sale of YSL’s red shoe. —even those earning more than $75,000—are in deal seeking and couponing. But as the country is New York Southern District of New York Judge Victor Marrero continuing to refine their shopping habits with an eye coming out of the recession, he sees many returning to will decide whether to grant the injunction on Friday. towards value. spend at the places they previously enjoyed. “If the order is not issued, it would be seen by third parties John Gerzema, executive chairman at Young & “We look at the ShopperScape survey to observe as a sort of win by YSL,” said Lewin, who explained that this Rubicam’s BrandAsset Consulting and author of shopping behaviors, and more upper income shoppers could lead to a “ripple effect,” signaling that other brands could Spend Shift, says this is a tale of a new era. are bouncing back,” he says. “More upper income produce red-soled shoes without the threat of any legal action “Eighty percent of Americans were born after World shoppers benefitted from what recovery there’s been from Louboutin. War II, so this recession was their Great Depression,” in the jobs and stock markets. They feel wealthier, and Gerzema says. “This had a profound that is encouraging them to shop effect on people. It hasn’t put them in the retail stores they pulled back SECTORS IN THIS ISSUE in a ‘panic defensive’ mode, but “Mindful consumption from during the recession.” an ‘offensive pragmatic ‘mode. means going back to The International Council of RETAIL 1,6,7,8 TRADE SHOWS MW1-3 We’ve switched from credit to debit buying smart. Shopping Centers recently reported ACCESSORIES 2 FINANCIAL 6 FASHION 4-5,8 BEAUTY 6 living, making consumers more ” retailers experienced their third MEN’S FASHION MW1,MW4 MEDIA 7 discriminating in how they spend.” Andrew Benett, Arnold Worldwide, consecutive week of positive sales, It could be the thrill of the hunt author of Consumed increasing 5.5% over year ago for a bargain, but consumer interest figures. in apparel shopping has actually increased among Meanwhile, sales at dollar stores have begun to slow, DAILY QUOTE those earning $75,000 or more. From 2008 to 2011, with Dollar General Corp., and Family Dollar Stores the percentage of men who say they love or enjoy Inc., missing their quarterly targets, and Dollar Tree shopping has jumped from 23% to 33%, while the Inc., reporting declines. percentage of women who feel similarly increased from Badillo says ShopperScape numbers show that a year Department stores and 61% to 63%, according to the Cotton Incorporated ago, nearly one-quarter of all dollar store shoppers had Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey. annual incomes of $75,000 or more. the ’Net are the best and Currently, men and women with a household “That’s dropped to 22% this quarter,” he says. “It’s a income above $75,000 shop twice per month in stores sign that as the economy comes out of recession, dollar and once a month online for apparel, a figure that has stores are attracting fewer upper income shoppers and largest possibilities for remained steady since 2008, the Monitor survey finds. their performance is being squeezed.” The amount they spend, though, has changed: Consumers are shopping more “thoughtfully” as a certain price range. Monitor stats show that among men making $75,000 they return to department and specialty stores, Benett — KARL LAGERFELD. PAGE ONE. or more, apparel spending says. Indeed, impulse shop- has averaged $65 per month ping has decreased among Men and Women Making $75K or More in 2011, compared to $89 Who Love or Enjoy Shopping upper-income men, from per month in 2008. Upper- 26% in 2008 to 20% in 2011, TODAY ON WWD.COM income women, meanwhile, MEN WOMEN and from 40% to 37% in ■ averaged $102 per month in the same timeframe among EYESCOOP: 61% 64% 63% 63% See more images from 2008 and $82 in 2011. women making $75,000 or the Miu Miu party in Andrew Benett, global more, Monitor data show. LA and Celebrity Fashion: 33% CEO for Arnold Worldwide 28% 30% “The trend of high-low Maxi-ed Out at 23% and author of Consumed, says fashion is how consumers WWD.com/eyescoop. people have become more are living,” Benett says, ■ MEN’S: Additional mindful consumers. explaining, “They’ll pair an images from the New York “Prior to the recession, 2008 2009 2010 2011 H&M top with a Prada pant. trade shows at WWD.com/ menswear-news. we had a nest egg and home Source: CottonLifestyleMonitor.com I think as everyone’s 401K valuations went up 20% goes from being down 40% ■ BUSINESS: See more fi nancial news every year, and unemployment was at 5%,” Benett to down 10%, we feel better about shopping, but I Camilla JASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES and daily stock movements says. “Post-recession, we became better consumers, and Belle in think we’ve also learned the joys of buying smarter.” at WWD.com/business-news. I don’t think that’s changed. Brands like Gilt and Rue Monitor data reveal 57% of men making $75,000 or Miu Miu. La La are all doing well because they offer high fashion more would pay more for better quality, up from 53% PHOTO BY for a great price.” in 2008. Additionally, the number of men who would TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Interest in shopping sales has remained strong even sacrifice a little quality to get a better price dropped WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. among the wealthier households. The Monitor survey from 43% in 2008 to 36% in 2011. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 202, NO. 14. THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays finds that 6 out of 10 consumers making $75,000 or The picture is more mixed for women. Although and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, November and December, two additional issues in February, March, more per year shop for apparel on sale, which has been more than half (51%) will pay more for better quality, April and August and three additional issues in September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by relatively consistent from 2008 to 2011. those sacrificing a little quality for a better price Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Offi cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; Of course, thrift can mean different things to increased from 2008 to 2011 (from 40% to 45%). John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Offi cer & Chief Financial Offi cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Offi cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian different people. Gerzema says “spend shifting” is a more optimistic Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR “It’s being smart and stylish and it shows you’re trend following a few years of jittery shopping. “Spend DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, a thinking person,” Gerzema says. “It’s a reflection shifting is putting control into the hands of the people. OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: of being someone who’s investing rather than just The crisis evaporated a lot of wealth, but it also really If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected spending. It means you put more careful thought into evaporated people’s esteem. Now, it’s about choosing address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of your consumption, and you spend as a reflection on where you want to indulge.” new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800- 767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. A digital TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. You talking to me? PHOTO BY SCOTT RUDD

TOMMY HILFIGER // INDUSTRY LEADER AND LOYAL READER REACH EVERYBODY WHO’S ANYBODY IN FASHION 4 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2011 SHOW 

TELLREAD& ALL ABOUT IT. A LOOK AT THE NEXT CROP OF FLEDGLING DESIGNERS. — VENESSA LAU

ELIZABETH ANYAA BIO: Raised in Sierra Leone, West Africa, Anyaa studied textile design at Rovaniemi University in Finland. After graduation, she designed textiles and patterns for a local architect there, later moving to Dallas, where she started her own company in 2004. That fi zzled a few years later, but she is now giving it another go with an offi cial relaunch of ready-to-wear and accessories. COLLECTION: Anyaa’s focus is always on the fabrics, most of which she hand-makes, treats and sometimes paints. She felts wool onto silk, cotton and linen, creating alluring patterns and textures — swirling, marblelike motifs on dresses or abstract shapes on scarves. “I think of the wool as an element of embellishment,” she says. STATS: Wholesales from $150 to $1,500; sold at her own studio-store in Dallas, which she opened in 2007. P.S.: Anyaa also crafts housewares, such as pillows and bowls, from her homespun fabrics. Here: Elizabeth Anyaa’s silk chiffon dress and scarf, both with wool felt embellishments. Hue tights.

MORGAN CARPER BIO: Nebraska native Carper, who studied textile design at the University of Kansas, spent three years working for bridal designer Monica Byrne. When Byrne closed her brand in 2008 to work in-house at Vera Wang, Carper began freelance styling for “very unglamorous jobs,” she says. “I did mainly television commercials — Advil and Firestone tires.” COLLECTION: Despite her experience in bridal and eveningwear, Carper has her sights set on the contemporary market. “I’m a casual dresser,” she says. “I want the line to refl ect my lifestyle.” Hers is a life fi lled with wanderlust, so each collection is infl uenced by a different part of the world she’s visited — Mongolia for her fall 2010 debut, Latin America for spring 2011 and Turkey for fall 2011. An abstract print on easy shirts and dresses, for instance, is “a nod to the decaying marble and stone I found in the mosques,” she says. STATS: Wholesales from $138 to $255; sold at Eva and Condor in New York and Traffi c in L.A. P.S.: Before she launched her line, Carper taught in- home cooking lessons in Brooklyn. Here: Morgan Carper’s polyester shirt and wool FASHION EDITOR: MAYTE ALLENDE pants. Stuart Weitzman shoes. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE FOR THREE MORE WWD THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2011 5 NEW DESIGNERS, SEE WWD.COM WWD.com/ fashion-news.

19 4t BIO: Linda Monaskanian is a born and bred Los Angeleno, but despite her new line of easy basics, she’s not exactly the laid-back West Coast type. “The way my mind works is very East Coast, very Europe. I like getting really dressed up — I’m not an L.A. girl whatsoever,” she says, but nevertheless she does not have plans to relocate. Monaskanian studied at Cal State Northridge and Otis College of Art and Design before working at L.A.’s TSS showroom (doing sales for Milly and Tracy Reese) and Magnolia boutique (as an accessories buyer). COLLECTION: Her brand is pronounced “1940,” yet there’s nothing remotely Forties about Monaskanian’s clothes. “I read somewhere that, in the Forties, ‘Linda’ was the most sought-after name,” she says. “So this represented me, but it’s not putting my actual name on the label.” The “t” hits closer to the heart of the collection, which revolves around the casual comfort of the T-shirt, kicked up a stylish notch. “My concept was to have sweatpants and sweatshirts you could wear out,” she says. “They’re not just for running your errands.” Simple terry tops come with sexy cutouts at the shoulder, while sweatpants are cut in dropped-crotch silhouettes. STATS: Wholesales from $60 to $120; sold at Max in Aspen, Colorado; Space 519 and Trillium in Chicago; Satine and Fred Segal Trend in Los Angeles, and Curve in New York, Miami and L.A. P.S.: All of 19 4t’s fabrics are sourced from Japan and feature a well-worn vintagelike feel. Here: 19 4t’s cotton top and sweatpants. Alejandro Ingelmo shoes.

Tucker Serves it Again LAST YEAR, former InStyle fashion market director Toby Tucker launched her own line of golfwear fueled by the stylish shortcomings she saw in the market. Dresses came with pockets to fi t scorecards and shorts had ribbon trims with deliberate gaps to store tees. Now, she’s set her sights on another country- club staple: tennis. “This was a natural second step to the golf collection,” says the Connecticut-based Tucker, adding that while she grew up a golfer, even playing for the University of Pennsylvania’s men’s team, she’s new to the courts. “But living out in Greenwich, the social thing to do is to play tennis, so I started playing more. This started from the same place as my golf line — my girlfriends and I weren’t fi nding things we liked in the market.” According to Tucker, her Toby Tucker Tennis collection targets the middle zone between “boring, white nurse-y outfi ts” and “crazy, Serena Williams fun.” Dresses, including racer-back and tank styles, come in four-way stretch fabrics that wick moisture from the body, and are boldly color-blocked (hot pink and blue or neon yellow and gray), riffi ng on a motif from her days covering the swimwear market. “What I took away was how to use colorblocking to create a slimming effect,” notes Tucker, who worked at Glamour before InStyle. Her shorts feature grosgrain ribbon details and special upside-down mesh NY FOR DIOR BEAUTY/BEAUTYWING LOGVINOV pockets, the latter tailor-made SERGEY to store tennis balls. Prices EMERSON for the lineup, set to make its debut for the resort

REDKEN; BIO: Boston-based Jackie Fraser-Swan attended the city’s School of Fashion Design in 2009 but quit to take care of her four children. She launched Emerson for spring 2011, naming it after poet Ralph season, retail from $95

Waldo Emerson. to $165. AND MAKEUP BY And, yes, Tucker COLLECTION: Fraser-Swan says she loves to mine a nature motif: “I have 80 acres that I live on already has set her with my family. There’s a big forest in my backyard. We have a lake.” Thus, she crafts her knits from sights on her next nubby, textured wool and splices fuzzy mohair pockets onto simple vests and an LBD; there are sports launch, also arty tree prints on silk dresses. But Fraser-Swan is also inspired by New York — “I love the which, naturally, is energy of downtown” — which gives the lineup an urbane appeal, i.e. a leather jacket with a wide swim. “I never let FOR YAMAMOTO/DEFACTO AYUMI fold-over collar. go of that market, even when I became STATS: Wholesales from $73 to $587; sold at Boston’s Matsu and Louis Boston. director,” Tucker says. T/IMG; HAIR MODEL: ALEXANDRA P.S.: Not only does Fraser-Swan have roots in Emerson’s hometown, but the designer says the poet “I’m an absolute sucker is a “distant cousin.” for swimwear.” — VENESSA LAU Here: Emerson’s silk dress. Kushyfoot tights; Alejandro Ingelmo shoes. MITRA; ROBERT Toby Tucker’s Lycra AN NUYEN ASSISTANT: FASHION NY; MAKEUP: JANEIRO FOR DIOR BEAUTY/BEAUTYWING MODEL: MARIANNA/MC2; HAIR:

dress. Keds sneakers. PHOTO BY 6 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2011

Denim Habit Takes Manhattan BEAUTY BEAT Bridgepoint Buys La Gardenia Chain

By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — M&A activity in Italy is not slow- ing down as European private equity fund Bridgepoint said Wednesday it has taken control of perfumery chain La Gardenia from funds L Capital, the private equity arm of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and Ergon Capital. The parties did not disclose financial terms of the transaction. La Gardenia, which has 161 stores and 822 employees, is positioned in the high-end segment of the market. The retailer posted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization of 18 million euros, or $23.7 million at average exchange, and sales of 113 million euros, or $149 million, in 2010. Bridgepoint said La Gardenia doubled its market share in the 2006 to 2011 period, on a like-for-like basis and through the opening of new stores. Italy’s perfumery business ranks third in Europe in terms of sales and is esti- A rendering of Denim Habit, opening mated at about 9 billion euros, or $12.7 bil- in the Meatpacking District. lion at current exchange, annually. La Gardenia chief executive offi cer Silvano Storer said “the company still has large growth margins and the partnership with Shulick expects the unit, at 346 and James, Joie, Dylan Alexa, Missoni Bridgepoint will allow the company to further By SHARON EDELSON West 14th Street, to do $3 million in and Patterson J. Kincaid. grow and strengthen its market positioning.” sales in its fi rst year. Denimhabit.com, Customer service and music are Commenting on the acquisition, NEW YORK — Denim Habit, a an e-commerce site, will also bow next part of the concept, which extends Bridgepoint partner Lucio Ranaudo said, 2,250-square-foot fl agship bowing next month. Other Denim Habits are locat- to customers’ signifi cant others. On “La Gardenia is a sizeable nationwide oper- month in the Meatpacking District ed in Suburban Square, Ardmore, Pa., Denim Habit’s lower level, Shulick ator in Italy in a large and highly fragment- here, refl ects its owner’s belief that and The Promenade in Marlton, N.J. has designed a 500-square-foot man ed market that is ripe for consolidation.” women don’t buy premium jeans the AG, Current/Elliott, J Brand, cave, replete with sofas, a big-screen Ranaudo praised La Gardenia’s“reputation same way they used to. Habitual, Joe’s Jeans and Vintage T V, pool table, PlayStation and Wii. for excellent customer service,” and said Wayne Shulick, chief executive offi - Revolution are among the staples at Apparel and jewelry will be priced the chain, which was “well positioned to cer of Denim Habit, has been studying Denim Habit, but because jeans have from $25 to $300. “Cotton prices haven’t take market share from independents,” women’s denim shopping habits since a shorter shelf life now, Shulick is fi ltered down to us yet,” Shulick said, is already a leading force in the shopping opening his fi rst store in 2008. “The stressing new brands with frequent adding that he wants to cap prices at mall segment. days of walking down the street and updates. DL1961, made from four- $300. “We’re not Scoop or Intermix,” he Bridgepoint is not new to the sector as one seeing stores with stacks and stacks way stretch denim so they don’t lose said, referring to Meatpacking District of its funds already controls Italy’s leading of folded jeans, is kind of [obsolete],” their fi t after washes, and Henry & retail neighbors. “We’re a notch and a Limoni perfumery chain. It also developed Shulick said. “Premium denim is sat- Belle, designed for women in their half below. I don’t want to stray too far the Nocibé perfumery chain in France from urated. People now want to be shown 30s and 40s, are two examples. Some away from what we do well.” 2002 to 2005. more outfi ts than before. We started of the lesser-known brands will get Shulick is planing to open two to The fund said it had identified La merchandising sportswear with hang- dedicated space at Denim Habit in three more stores in Manhattan in the Gardenia as an interesting target over two ing denim a few years ago. We’re striv- exchange for exclusive items or wash- fi rst quarter of 2012. “This has been such years ago. “Bridgepoint also believes that ing for a warmer, boutique feeling es. Sportswear will include Halston a big project,” he said. “I haven’t had there is further potential at La Gardenia for than the big denim stores,” he said. Heritage, House of Harlow, Elizabeth time to look anywhere else for space.” best practice operational improvement such as the introduction of private label,” the fund said. Bridgepoint fi rst established operations in France in 1991 and has raised 11 billion euros, or $15.5 billion, of capital to date. In Cotton Concerns Hit Hanesbrands addition to La Gardenia, its investments in 2011 include the acquisition of French resi- Citing competitive considerations, from $1.08 billion a year ago. Gross mar- dential property management services busi- By ARNOLD J. KARR Noll declined to discuss the compa- gin expanded to 34.9 percent of sales ness Foncia, and German specialty chemicals ny’s pricing strategies or its approach from 34.8 percent a year ago. company CABB, among others. INVESTOR DISAPPOINTMENT with to the volatile cotton market, where Year-to-date net income increased third-quarter projections overshad- prices have contracted in recent 10.6 percent to $134.9 million, or $1.36 owed a strong second-quarter perfor- weeks after a long upward trajectory. a diluted share, while sales were up mance by Hanesbrands Inc. Wednesday, Prices for 2012 cotton deliveries are 12.9 percent to $2.26 billion. sending shares down more than 9 per- considerably lower — down to $1 a Shares fi nished the day at $30.24, G-III Taps Kathy Glynn cent amid uncertainty about the future pound in some cases from as high as down $3.02, or 9.1 percent, as the S&P of cotton prices. $2 this year, according to Noll. Retail Index slipped 0.7 percent to For Andrew Marc Post The Winston-Salem, N.C.-based “In fact, we’re already starting to 545.61, and the Dow Jones Industrial owner of trademarks including Hanes, talk to retailers about how to make sure Average was down 0.1 percent to NEW YORK — Kathy Glynn has been named Champion and Playtex stuck by its full- that lower cotton prices president of the Andrew Marc division of year guidance but said third-quarter don’t adversely affect G-III Apparel Group Ltd. earnings “could increase as much as 30 them from a negative She reports to Jeanette Nostra, president percent over last year’s 63 cents” a share. [comparable sales] of G-III. Nostra has also served as president That would put the low end of EPS ex- perspective and us as of the Andrew Marc division since its acquisi- pectations at 82 cents, 9 cents below the well, and we’re already tion by G-III in 2008. analyst consensus estimate of 91 cents. developing programs to Glynn joined Andrew Marc in 2006 and On the company conference call, make sure we handle has been instrumental in the company’s ex- Richard Noll, chairman and chief ex- this volatility in a suc- $86.8MHanesbrands’ second-quarter net income. pansion into new product categories. Most ecutive offi cer, indicated that price in- cessful manner for both recently, she was executive vice president creases stemming from higher costs for of us,” he said. of sales and marketing. She will oversee all cotton and other infl ationary pressures In the quarter ended July 2, net in- 12,571.91. Of the 169 equities tracked departments, including design, production, haven’t had a meaningful effect on sales. come rose 1.6 percent to $86.8 million, by WWD, Hanesbrands’ decline was creative services, sales and marketing, as “In terms of elasticity, while still or 87 cents a diluted share, 1 cent above the second largest on a percentage well as all licensing partners. In addition early, preliminary results support our consensus estimates, versus profi ts of basis. Citi Trends Inc. was off 12.1 per- to outerwear, Andrew Marc produces such assumption that units fall off less than $85.4 million, also 87 cents, in last year’s cent to $13.97 after reporting it expects classifi cations as handbags, dresses and the rate of price increases,” he said. quarter, which benefi ted from a lower its net loss for the second quarter end- tailored clothing. “Now looking ahead, we have institut- effective tax rate. Paced by growth in ing July 30 to come to 60 cents to 70 Prior to joining Andrew Marc, Glynn ed another price increase in the U.S. the international sector and in its out- cents a diluted share, after its same- was vice president of sales at G.A.V., and retail business for the fourth quar- erwear business, primarily from the store sales contracted 12 percent in earlier was national sales manager of ter, which should cover the increases acquisition last year of Gear for Sports, both May and June and are expected to Giorgio Armani. needed as we head into 2012.” sales rose 13.9 percent to $1.23 billion be down 11 percent for the full quarter. — LISA LOCKWOOD WWD thursday, july 21, 2011 7 WWD.COM

a celebrity since it launched its “Art representing the book. “The soonest campaign. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott of Fashion” spots in 1994 (Jennifer Jason this could come out would probably photographed the models in London. MeMo pad Leigh was the first). “The shoot tells the be a year from now, but it might be Pivovarova, who appears with a story of a star’s transformation and Ms. longer,” she added. “That’s a pretty sleek, platinum blonde hairdo and Barrymore had a strong hand in the quick schedule.” dramatic makeup, last appeared in LEADING THE PACK: The all-important execution, even down to having a point Gevinson will be in town next week the designer’s spring and makeup September ad page numbers are in of view on hair styling,” said Eddie Nunns, to meet with publishers. She is also campaigns in 2009, while Fragoso and there is a clear winner: Vogue. vice president of Neiman Marcus brand working on a coffee-table book with appears in Armani’s ads for the The Condé Nast title is up 9 percent in creative. “She’s a powerful, modern Rizzoli, based on her blog, and gearing first time. The campaign will bow paging, to 584. Publisher Susan Plagemann woman with trans-generational appeal.” up for the launch of her Web site and internationally in September. said the issue will house all the major The multipage campaign breaks magazine collaboration with Jane Pratt. As for the latest Giorgio Armani fashion brands, with American designers in the September issues of Vogue, The details still haven’t been set, but Eyewear campaign, the designer’s increasing their ad commitments by 14 Vanity Fair and W, along with a digital the Web site has been tentatively named customers take center stage by actually percent, French brands up 28 percent version of the campaign for iPads in Rookie.com and is scheduled to launch fronting the ads. At the end of 2010, and Italian houses increased advertising collaboration with Vanity Fair. in September. several bloggers, including Tommy Ton by 19 percent. She declined to name new Her hair dyed a dramatic shade of Meltzer, 34, is the author of two books of Jak & Jil, Jared Eng of Just Jared advertisers. red, Barrymore projects uberconfidence — “How Sassy Changed My Life” (with and Yvan Rodic of Face Hunter, started InStyle comes in second place, up as she reads a script, perches on a Kara Jesella) and “Girl Power” — and photographing people on the streets 5.8 percent to 431 pages. Publisher director’s chair or drapes herself works full-time as a freelancer in New wearing Armani glasses in major Connie Anne Phillips said it’s the largest over a crumpled car wearing an array York. — ZEKE TURNER cities around the world. These images, September on record for the magazine, of designer fashions, from Akris to displayed in black-and-white grids, with luxury paging up 22 percent (Donna Valentino. — MILES SOCHA now form the ad campaign, a project Karan Collection, Tod’s and Reed Sasha dubbed “Frames of Your Life,” which Krakoff will be new to the issue). In the TAVI TEEN SPIRIT: Most teenagers don’t Pivovarova will continue in 2012. retail space, paging is up 40 percent, wake up from slumber parties with a for Armani. — LUISA ZARGANI AND FILIPPO BRACHETTI with new names such as Neiman Marcus book proposal, but that’s exactly what and Nordstrom. happened in May when Tavi Gevinson, the ADDITIONS: Stephanie Trong, deputy Harper’s Bazaar rose 2.2 percent blogger behind Thestylerookie.com and digital editor at Lucky, has signed on to 308 pages. W, which closed its issue a rising high school sophomore, had a at Nymag.com as fashion editor. She a few days ago, will be up 3 percent, sleepover with author Marisa Meltzer in succeeds Ashlea Halpern, who left last to 255 pages. (Last September, the Chicago. Overnight the two cooked up year. Trong will oversee all fashion, issue was up 30 percent, on the arrival the idea for “Diary,” a book about “the beauty and shopping coverage at the of editor in chief Stefano Tonchi). Nina state of being a teenager,” according to site, which includes The Cut blog and Lawrence, publisher, said all fashion the ’zine-style proposal they sent out to all fashion week coverage. Prior to advertisers renewed their commitments publishers on Wednesday morning. joining Lucky, Trong was editorial and the majority will run four pages The proposal suggests a hodge-podge director at Gilt Groupe. or more. Looking ahead, she predicted of material: the book will be one part Meanwhile, it’s been a busy that October could post a double-digit make-your-own scrapbook, one part summer at Departures, with Heather increase in paging. feminist manifesto for girls and one part Halberstadt signing on as features Not every title is up for the month, celebrity memento collage, featuring director. Halberstadt was senior however. Elle will post a 6.8 percent art made by Miranda July or Rodarte’s editor at WSJ and before that, was decline in paging for the month, to 350, Mulleavy sisters when they were young. at Vanity Fair. She’ll be joined by although it will still be third among It will also include plenty of less heady Jessica Flint, the magazine’s new digital the major fashion titles in terms of ad material: instructions on “how to make editor who is leaving Bloomberg pages. — AMY WICKS a friendship bracelet,” entries on “why BusinessWeek. New York design crushes are so essentially teenage” and director Wendy Goodman has officially LIGHTS, CAMERA, FASHION RETAILING: perhaps a page to design your own tote signed on as editor of the new home Neiman Marcus is summoning the bag or “dream pizza.” and design section at Departures and lure of mid-century Hollywood with a “The core audience I do think MODEL CITIZENS: Giorgio Armani has Alexandra Wolfe will become a regular cinematic fall advertising campaign is teens to early twentysomethings, called on models Sasha Pivovarova columnist for the magazine’s New featuring a modern-day actress, but I really do think it will have and Diego Fragoso for his fall ad Think section. — A.W. Drew Barrymore, and a celebrated a significant audience in the photographer of the genre, Norman twenty- or thirtysomething young Jean Roy. It’s only the second time the women demographic in the fashion Dallas-based luxury retailer has tapped world,” said Melissa Flashman, who is

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Daffy’s Taps Vanessa LeFebvre VANESSA LEFEBVRE was named vice buying positions. She became a divi- president and chief merchandising offi- sional merchandise manager for con- cer at Daffy’s, effective July 31. She suc- temporary and modern sportswear in ceeds Chris Friedlander, who held the 2005 and held that title until 2009 when similar position of executive vice presi- she joined TJX. dent and general merchandise manager Caryn Lerner, Daffy’s chief execu- and left the company in April. LeFebvre tive officer, said LeFebvre will play a big since 2009 has been a divisional vice role in bringing on-trend merchandise president and merchandise manager to Daffy’s at affordable prices. “Vanessa for men’s wear at rival The TJX Cos. Inc. will provide a fresh perspective that will Her responsibilities include young help position Daffy’s for future growth men’s, active, team and swim. LeFebvre as we open new retail locations and pre- (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] started her career at Lord & Taylor in pare for 2012 and beyond,” she added. 1999, working her way through various — SHARON EDELSON 8 WWD thursday, july 21, 2011

Sketches from Karl Lagerfeld’s Lagerfeld’s Latest With Macy’s Macy’s line. {Continued from page one} leggings with a rock ’n’ roll edge. The way he designs and the way certain price range.” Regarding “It’s all fashion,” Gennette said. he thinks are just as fast as the Macy’s specifically, “It’s the per- “Some of it customers will get way he talks.” fect department store in the right away — some of it will be a Fischelis described the cre- U.S., where everybody can find reach.” ation of the collection as collab- what they’re looking for without “There’s a contemporary spin orative, where Lagerfeld and his ruining their budget.” on his signature aesthetic, with team and the Macy’s fashion and Last September, Lagerfeld versatile, easy-to-wear pieces buying teams submitted ideas. stopped showing his signature with a modern twist,” added Then Lagerfeld and his team collection on the runway during Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s group came up with an abundance of Paris Fashion Week to prepare vice president and fashion direc- items, leaving Macy’s to the task for the launch of a line based on tor. “I’ve known Karl for a very of culling the assortment. what he calls “mass elitism,” as long time. He is not just about “There really wasn’t a lot reported. On Wednesday, he was fashion. He is all about style. of back and forth,” recalled deep into conducting a fitting for With Karl, it was a very easy pro- Martine Reardon, Macy’s execu- the forthcoming launch of the cess. Yo u could be intimidated, tive vice president of marketing masstige collection under his own but he is so amazing. He is very and advertising. “We had more name to be sold primarily online. reachable, sharp and funny. We problems trying to edit it all. He As for the collection for met with him and he knew who had so many great ideas.” Macy’s, “it’s quintessential we wanted to reach. He gets it. Recently, Macy’s has incorpo- Lagerfeld but done at affordable He understands America very, rated different strategies to try prices,” Jeff Gennette, Macy’s very well. Everything is very to capture greater market share Inc.’s chief merchandising of- easy with him. He is so quick. in contemporary, a sector where ficer, told WWD. store officials acknowledge not “It’s really focused getting their fair share. The store on statement jack- is stronger in traditional miss- ets, tweeds, nov- es, but has been extending the elty fabrics, and Impulse umbrella to additional dresses” that could product categories such as acces- either be soft and sories, men’s wear and beauty. feminine, or in Impulse targets 24- to 30-year- sculptured, tuxedo olds although it does draw shop- silhouettes very fit- pers in their teens to 40s. Key ted to the body, or brands ongoing in Impulse in- with Lagerfeld’s clude Rachel Rachel Roy, BCBG the holiday season, all four de- Herald Square flagship in early signature high col- Max Azria, Free People, Ed signers will again create exclu- September to mingle with cus- lars. Iconic, graphic Hardy, INC, Ralph Lauren RLX, sive products for Macy’s, which tomers and fans. The collection T-shirts, will also be Seven For All Mankind, Kensie, will be gift-oriented. Macy’s de- will be bolstered by magazine standouts. “They’re and Bar III, a private brand sign and buying teams are con- and outdoor advertising, as well the type you can launched last winter. “Each sea- tinuing to work with designers as QR codes in the store which see them from a son we roll out Impulse to a few to create additional one-off col- shoppers can scan with their distance and know more doors,” Reardon said. lections for Impulse next year. cell phones to see videos to they’re Karl’s,” This year, a designer capsule With Lagerfeld, “We are de- learn about Lagerfeld and his Gennette said. collection series for Impulse voting the same square footage Macy’s collection. Also in the col- was kicked off with British de- that we have devoted to other “It’s pretty amazing to be able lection: airy tops; signer Kinder Aggugini and [guest] Impulse designers, but to have the talent and caliber of colors ranging from then followed with another we probably stepped out a little a Karl Lagerfeld working with us soft to ‘‘shocking” one-off collection by Matthew more with a magazine pres- exclusively,” Reardon said. “We pink, and gray to Williamson. After Lagerfeld, ence,” Reardon said, adding are really excited about it. It re- noir; comfortable Macy’s is expected to feature that the project has been nine inforces our fashion credentials jackets with croco- Giambattista Valli, though the months in the making and that and commitment to younger, dile prints, and chic store has not confirmed that. For Lagerfeld will appear at Macy’s contemporary fashion.”

Fashion scoops

MEET THE CEO: Steven Kolb, who has served conserve electricity, Tokyo’s FNO will not Guccissima print, and the classic green- Side, the California artist George Herms as executive director of the Council of stretch into the late night hours, and the red-green web detailing edging the boat’s was about to put the finishing touches on Fashion Designers of America for the past activity — which will likely include a red front line. The boat was created as part a white mannequin dressed in a black five years, has been promoted to chief carpet procession outside Omotesando of Gucci’s 90th anniversary celebration Carhartt jacket. Abstract reflective shapes executive officer. The newly created role Hills mall — will be shifted to earlier in and is available to buy for $750,000. he called his “barbecue moon rocks” recognizes Kolb’s contributions to the the day, from 2 p.m. through 10 p.m. hung around him. There was an ink pad CFDA since joining. The decision was STUDIO PARTY: On Tuesday evening, in at his feet. “The love stamp is what I’ve made by the CFDA executive committee WONDERS NEVER CEASE: Store number a warehouse on Manhattan’s far West been putting on every work of art since last week, and Kolb will continue to report one, a flagship in SoHo, still doesn’t 1960,” Herms said. “It’s like my to CFDA chairman Diane von Furstenberg have a firm opening date, but that’s not imprimatur. It means it’s done.” and the CFDA board. “Steven is a ceo,” stopping Christopher Burch from finding Herms was waiting for Adam von Furstenberg told WWD. “This title is other locations for his C. Wonder rollout. A Kimmel, who had enlisted him to long deserved. Steven is the best.…He is second C. Wonder store, a 5,000-square-foot design the windows at Barneys smart, sensitive to talent and works very, unit, is to open in November at Westfield New York for his collaboration very hard. We started together at CFDA, Garden State Plaza mall in Paramus, N.J. with the workwear brand Carhartt, and I cannot imagine CFDA without him.” That’s about the same size as the flagship to apply the stamp. Kimmel made at 72 Spring Street, which will open in the his way over with his wife, Leelee HEADING TO TOKYO: Tokyoites will have fall. C. Wonder stores will offer women’s Sobieski. Hand-in-hand, Herms and to wait a few months longer than New apparel, shoes, jewelry and accessories, the actress applied a rubber stamp Yorkers to revel in this year’s Fashion’s housewares and home decor, personal letter “L” to the mannequin’s face. Night Out, but the Japanese bash is electronics and some “wow” items. Kimmel helped on the “O.” shaping up to be especially big this Burch, an investor across a range In the next work space over, year. All the Vogue editions’ top editors, of industries, is ceo and founder of J. Kimmel’s other collaborators, the including Anna Wintour, Franca Sozzani, Christopher Capital LLC and co-chairman Portland, Ore.-based art collective Emmanuelle Alt and Alexandra Shulman, will of the board of ex-wife Tor y Burch’s clothing Paintallica, were applying a wood- travel to the city in early November, business. A C. Wonder spokeswoman said burning iron to totem pole-like along with Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of two more store locations will be revealed tree trunk sculptures. One of the

Condé Nast International, to show their in the coming weeks. yc.com group’s members, the painter Dan aN F

support for the country and its fashion b Attoe, took an occasional gulp from industry after the devastating earthquake COMING TO AMERICA: Gucci’s 33-foot a red gasoline container filled with in March. Newhouse and the editors Aquariva boat is docking at the Sag beer. “They’re from the Pacific will host a dinner for fashion executives, Harbor Cove Yacht Club this weekend, al- Rasmus/ Northwest, and it’s not something celebrities and VIPs on Nov. 4, and the lowing guests to view it by appointment. Neil you see every day in New York,” following day the group will take part in Designed by Gucci creative director Frida Kimmel said. “You have a lot of guys Tokyo’s edition of the annual shopping Giannini, it is tailor-made for the brand’s in New York that try to be all rough event. (New York’s FNO will take place followers — with features including seats photo by and tumble, but these guys are the Sept. 8.) In a nod to Japan’s efforts to upholstered with the label’s trademark Dan Attoe, Adam Kimmel and George Herms. real thing.”

MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2011 Men’s Week RETAILERS UPBEAT ABOUT SPRING OFFE RS AT N.Y. TRADE SHOWS

{Continued from page MW1} Plectrum by double-breasted cotton sport coats as potential opportuni- Ben Sherman ties. “I’m looking for something new and different,” he said. “ Yo u can’t just tweak what you did last year and expect the customer to be moved by it.” David Rubenstein said he was steering clear of denim jeans this time, since the category has slowed down. Instead, he was lured by the preppy and retro infl uences that he saw in sportswear. In clothing, he expects the infl ux of color to help boost sales in that category. Tim Ryan, of Harleys in Milwaukee, also pointed to the “stronger presence of color” as an opportunity. “We’re a color store and our customer responds positively to it.” At Project, he liked the expanded denim presentation, and also singled out Victorinox as one of the top vendors at ENKNYC. Bugatchi’s colorful shirts were also eye- catching to him. “We had a very good spring season,” Ryan said, “although we were disappointed with outerwear. The unique, technical pieces were strong, but not the commodity items. Our cloth- ing, dress furnishings and denim were also strong. So we’re looking for more items — things that have unique materials or components. Even if it’s a white shirt, if it has details we can tell a story about, that’s what we’re looking for.” Ken Giddon, of Rothmans in New York City and Westchester, said he liked Btns’s “cool short-sleeve shirts,” along with Descendant of Thieves, which had unusual polos and knits. Other interesting fi nds were Miansai bracelets, sport coats from Cashmere Classics, sport shirts from Rufus, Retro Super Future the Zachary Prell collection and shorts from Paperbacks. Giddon, who is relocating his store on Union Square early next year, said he is “re- assessing all vendors” in order to have an interesting assortment when the new loca- tion opens in January or February. Craig Beecroft, of Beecroft & Bull Ovadia & Sons in Virginia, found “a lot of great soft sport coats” in the market for spring. “There’s good creativity out there Will Leather Goods of- heritage theme, the collection and lots of color, which is good for a fered classic Americana- included denim at $79 to $128, Southern retailer.” Beecroft said the inspired accessories includ- woven shirts at $48 to $68, fl annel company’s sales are “up a little bit, ing bags, belts, wallets and shirts at $98, chunky hand-knit and we’ve had nice steady growth for the cuffs. Bill Adler, founder, sweaters for $268, casual blazers last 12 months, so we feel optimistic.” said stores have respond- starting at $128 and outerwear ed to a line of bags that in the low $300s. The company ENKNYC mix leather with vin- plans to add a full tailored From its more traditional Designers Collective to tage American Indian- clothing program next year. the trend-driven Blue area, retailers had a number blanket prints. Australia’s Shorts and tank tops were of strong brands to choose from at the twice-yearly show. Strong Boalt Zanerobe brought its pre- key sellers at Rogue, according Parajumpers, a high-end Italian brand of outerwear, mium streetwear designs to the show and offered a to president Jon McKinney, which shirts, pants and accessories, features designs patterned tight collection of retro-inspired swimwear in classic board- has branched out into a full col- after the outfi ts worn by parachute rescue squads, with all short lengths for spring. Walk-Over, a shoe manufacturer lection since focusing on leathers the requisite bells and whistles. Its trademark patch, fea- founded in 1758, took full advantage of the heritage trend when it launched. “We don’t have tured on the lightweight nylon or stonewashed cotton jack- with its canvas and leather wingtips and dirty bucks with any bright colors. We’re all muted, ets, is “That Others May Live.” contrasting saddles. In addition to the classics, the brand dusty tones, so even our fl oral print- Arnold Zimberg, who has a long pedigree in men’s wear, of- brought its Vintage collection of military boots and other ed shirts and soft lavenders and fered a featherlight line of Moroccan-inspired sport shirts at distressed styles of footwear. mint colors have a masculine look,” the show. “Men’s shirts are strong, but it’s time for a change,” he he explained. said. The collection, which has a Bohemian sensibility, was in- PROJECT NEW YORK Rogue’s gauzy, lightweight tops, spired by the beaches of Saint-Tropez and Ibiza and will retail The Project New York show doubled in space to two floors and many with scoop necks, are meant for $195 to $225. Scarves in similar patterns were also offered. added 60 percent more brands, according to president Andrew to be layered with blazers and William Rast still had a focus on denim. A variety of wash- Pollard. Apart from the expansion in size, the show added a paired with a best-selling, cropped- es and fi nishes with a clean aesthetic were offered, although host of special features — including a showcase of brands crotch knit sweatpant for a modern William Rast the company also had a tropical weight wool trouser in a five- handcrafting product on-site, a full working Splashlight pho- look, said McKinney. pocket silhouette for stores ready to move beyond denim. tography studio and a nerve center for bloggers to set up shop Military infl uences melded with punk and Carnaby Street and report straight from the show. at Spurr, the denim and sportswear-focused diffusion line “An Englishman in New York” was the theme for from designer Simon Spurr, which was one of the poshest Rodd & Gunn the upscale Plectrum collection by Ben Sherman. brands at the show. Polos ($95 retail) were adorned with “We are taking the brand in a more premium direc- stitched-down epaulettes, and a trench coat with a tra- tion, with better styling and more attention to detail. ditional perforated back was embellished with channel It’s a complete change for us,” said Pan Philippou, stitching. Dress shirts had contrast stripes on sleeves, a chief executive officer of the London-based lightweight cotton peacoat was jazzed up with bright brand, which is now targeting 25- to 45-year- yellow taping on the interior and a slim blazer was olds, versus 18- to 25-year-olds previously. trimmed with grosgrain and silver buttons. “We spent a lot of time chugging along with- The NBA has spawned yet another fashion out changing and looking too much at the designer: John Salmons, shooting guard of the past and not enough at the future. We were Sacramento Kings. His partnership with Sherman a Mod brand when we should have been a Brown, a student of the tailoring trade, culminated in modernist brand,” he added. the launch of Salmons & Brown. The line of reworked The higher-priced Plectrum line fea- classics included a 1940s-inspired naval offi cer’s jack- tured knits made in Scotland; coats lined et in washed linen, a 1950s-style sailor’s stripe T-shirt, with goose down and trimmed with real lightweight summer cashmere sweaters, a suede mo- rabbit fur, and buttons and toggles made torcycle jacket and storm trooper shorts. from leather, horn and wood. There were In accessories, Retro Super Future eyewear Japanese-inspired open weave knit sweat- launched its fi rst ophthalmic range, as well as ers with a drapy attitude, nylon trench sunglass styles printed on the inside with eye- coats and new EC1 chino shorts in nine catching, vintage postcard images. Known for its colors, at $89 retail, an extension of the trendy, acetate frames, the Italian company also brand’s EC1 chino pant. introduced its fi rst metal aviator styles for spring. MITRA AND ROBERT The retailer Onassis explored its first On the denim front, Buffalo was showing boot- wholesale opportunities and showcased its price- cut fi ts again, with Bloomingdale’s recently asking

driven collections to potential accounts. The com- for a boot-cut program, according to the company. JOHN AQUINO

pany opened its fi rst stores in New York Green, khaki and white denim were also key trends BY and Tokyo this year and has design teams Arnold for spring at the brand, which sells at The Buckle,

in both cities. With an updated American Zimberg Macy’s, Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor and Nordstrom. PHOTOS Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JULY 21, 2011 MW3

A spring look RETAILERS UPBEAT ABOUT SPRING OFFE RS AT N.Y. TRADE SHOWS by Lucio Castro.

core product, but we have to evolve and be fresh,” he Onassis said. RNG Clothing’s collection of elegant suits, sport coats and seasonal sportswear was another standout. CAPSULE A slew of new brands launched at the directional Capsule show, ranging from full collections like Ian Velardi, which was picked up by Barneys New York, to Fahlgren ties and Under underwear. Velardi, who earned his stripes in sales for Hickey, launched his collection with low-key, wearable sport coats, denim jackets with multiple pocket details and tennis polos and striped button-down shirts. Brett Fahlgren, whose day job is executive merchan- dising stylist on the publishing side of GQ, introduced his fi rst tie collection under the Fahlgren label. The ties, with clever motifs like sharks, eagles, semaphores or bumblebees, are fashioned from English fabrics and handmade in the Robert Stewart facility in New Jersey. “They’re irreverent but not too over-the-top,” said Fahlgren, who designs the ties out of his home in Brooklyn. “They’re three inches in width, which is nar- row without being too narrow.” Priced to retail for $98, the fi rst order was from Stag in Austin, Tex. There are 20 styles in the fi rst collection, each available in several colors. The ties will fi rst ship to retailers in January. Based in London and manufactured in Portugal, the new Under brand of underwear offered up elegant, mod- ern designs in high-quality cotton waffl e and mercerized jersey, trimmed in woven chambray and twill. The line was founded by Kieron Hurley and includes briefs, boxers, tank tops, T-shirts and Henleys, FOR MORE with luxury details like contrast woven gussets. MITRA SPRING LOOKS, SEE Parajumpers Among the standout collections — and the most high-end — at the ROBERT WWD.com/ show was Ovadia & Sons, which BY menswear-news. will be available in just four retail

stores this fall, including a dedi- PHOTOS MRket cated shop at Bloomingdale’s 59th An updated preppy sensibility perme- Street and the CHCM boutique in ated the aisles at the MRket show at NoHo. The line, which is launch- the Jacob Javits Convention Center. ing with an ambitious range of Lucio Castro’s The show’s Vanguards Gallery fea- tailored clothing, sportswear, for- tured eight brands curated by former malwear, accessories and even Saks Fifth Avenue men’s fashion di- shoes — which are handmade in Simple Elegance rector Michael Macko. Among those Northampton, England — is the chosen was Rodd & Gunn, a New passion project of twin found- Zealand-based outdoors-inspired ers Shimon and Ariel Ovadia. The A|X Armani Exchange alumnus sportswear brand. The company has brothers began working at their fa- 42 freestanding stores in New Zealand ther’s children’s wear company, Magic branches out on his own for spring. and Australia, as well as 30 in-store shops Kids, as teenagers and have long been at Myer, Australia’s largest department obsessed with men’s wear. by DAVID LIPKE store chain. In its debut American collec- “Other kids grew up idolizing rock Lucio tion, the company showed its classic Rodd stars. We grew up idolizing Ralph Castro FOLLOWING SIX YEARS & Gunn shirts, trousers, jeans and sweaters — Lauren,” said Shimon Ovadia, as he at A|X Armani Exchange from New Zealand sheep, of course — as well as its showed off faultless classics like a cashmere/silk as a men’s knit and sweat- more youthful R&G line. The line is also augmented by dinner jacket inspired by Humphrey Bogart ($3,295 er designer, Lucio Castro shoes, bags and other accessories. retail); a tuxedo jacket with dramatically wide lapels is launching his own Rod Williams, of Rodd & Gunn USA, said the com- ($2,500); club collar dress shirts and madras patchwork label for spring. The line pany intends to start with wholesale and expand quick- ties, and seersucker shorts artfully hand-splattered with has been picked up by ly into retail in the States. “We should have one on the paint. “It’s timeless classics but with a modern fi t. There Opening Ceremony, and ground in fall ’12 in either Boston or New York,” he said. are elements of English and American style, with some the infl uential retailer is Other standouts at the show included Barbour’s Steve Italian,” explained Ovadia. also representing Castro McQueen collection, whose sandwashed line of waxed Shorts, a hot ticket for many buyers, were trimmed in the company’s show- cotton jackets and shirts was inspired by the actor’s love with hand-embroidered fl ower appliqués and plaid room, which wholesales of California and the Mojave desert, and Strong Boalt, trim at Gilbert and Lewis, named for the main char- independent designers. a new line of printed boardshorts from Amanda Boalt, acters in the fi lm “Revenge of the Nerds.” With trim The collection’s aesthet- who had worked at Ralph Lauren. “They feel modern sizing, the brand caters to the Asian market, with club ic is spare and sophisti- and a little tough,” Boalt said of the line, which uses pat- collars and an eyeglasses logo highlighting the collec- cated, with clean lines and terns inspired by fi sh, sunsets and other tropical themes. tion’s nerd-chic stance. minimal, subtle details. Miansai’s hook bracelets and necklaces; Isaora’s blend of At Trovata, designer John Whitledge said swim- Fabrics are from Japan, fashion and technology, and Number Lab’s jersey lounge suits were a strong seller, as were loose-weave knit and everything is made pants and shorts with contrast piping were also strong. pullovers and slub cotton polo shirts. “We’ve really using eco-conscious mate- Bills Khakis has moved beyond its roots as a bot- upgraded the quality with Japanese fabrics,” noted rials and techniques in Sri toms resource and offers knits, wovens and outerwear Whitledge. The company also launched an exclusive Lanka. Buttons are made with the brand’s unique take on “iconic classics,” ac- collection with Urban Outfi tters earlier this year from coconut or tagua nut, cording to owner Bill Thomas. “We’ll always have our under the Virgin Poets Society by Trovata label. with oxidized button shanks that give off the patina of age. Fellow California label VBN, or Vicarious By “I like to let the fabric speak for itself,” said Castro, adding that Nature, focused on eco-conscious materials and produc- he is an adherent of Fernand Deligny’s ethos of “elevated simplic- tion processes, using organic fabrics for its stonewashed ity.” Thus, a seemingly neutral charcoal fabric, for example, is actu- corduroy jeans, overdyed shirts with sepia tones and ally speckled with neon fl ecks. bias-stripe pullover sweaters. The company this year Castro originally studied medicine at the University of Buenos tapped John Varvatos veteran Kirk Von Heifner as head Aires and then switched gears to study fi lm. In 1999, he moved to designer; the line is carried in about 100 doors, includ- New York to attend the Parsons School of Design and earned a ing Neiman Marcus, Kitson and Atrium. fashion design degree. He then interned at Marc Jacobs (along with “Retailers have been very price-driven,” said designer Robert Geller), moving on to gigs at DKNY Jeans and then Timothy Heenan, founder of the showroom of the A|X Armani Exchange. same name, which was showing Vanishing Elephant, Highlights from the debut spring collection include a cardigan Velour and Penny Stock. The last was founded by fashioned from woven shirt material and pants made from reversed John Moore, a former creative director at Modern gray denim, with the back of the fabric on the outside of the gar- Amusement, and its beach-inspired sportswear ment — which makes for an interesting effect when the hems are played into retailers’ budgets, with shirts at $58 to rolled up. A short, slim tuxedo jacket features denim lapels, while a Fahlgren $78, pants at $70 to $80 and sweaters at $60. With the mustard yellow leather jacket is lined in chambray. classic penny loafer as inspiration, each style fea- Shirts retail for $185, jackets for $220, knits for $100, bottoms for tured a small pocket encasing an actual penny. $150 and leathers for $400 to $700. MW4 WWD thursday, july 21, 2011 Men’s Week

looks from the palm Beach collection. Massif: On the Front Line of Fashion

When the elite U.S. forces of the CiA, A look from SWAt teams, Coast Guard rescue swimmers, Massif. special ops and backcountry firefighters spring into action, they’re armed with more than just guns and grenades. they’re also protected by flame-retardant, high-perfor- mance apparel created by Massif. in fact, more than 3 million of Massif ’s technical garments have been deployed in the U.S., iraq, Afghanistan and other coun- mitra rt

E tries around the world, and the company’s annual sales are around $100 million. rob For fall 2012, the Ashland, Ore.-based manufacturer is taking the expertise it has

Photo by acquired on the front lines and translating it into a collection of men’s wear that com- bines technical fabrics and features with a HMX Bringing Back contemporary fashion attitude. to achieve that goal, Massif hired Scott Branscum, whose background includes stints at eddie Bauer, Perry ellis and Cutter & Buck, to Palm Beach for Spring spearhead the design. “it’s high-tech fashion,” Branscum said. by JeAn e. PAlMieRi is being manufactured in America in hMX’s All the garments will have moisture man- factories and features canvas construction, a agement and antimicrobial properties as AFteR A tWO-yeAR hiAtUS, Palm soft, washed color palette and sophisticated, well as stretch and 3-D ergonomic shaping. Beach is back. contemporary styling. Jackets have peak la- Seams are naturally shaped to legs, un- SEE

the venerable label, founded in the pels, side vents and ticket pockets. the drop derarms are fully gusseted to provide for chin E early 1900s, has been re-created by its is six-and-a-half to seven inches and the sil- range of motion, there are secure interior owners, hMX Group, and is being re- houette is “lean and very modern,” Abboud and exterior pockets and stealth sleeve org g E

launched for spring. said. Jackets are quarter-lined and relaxed. pockets. Subtle badge epaulets are a sig- by “When i first looked at the company, i “it’s all about attitude,” Abboud said. nature of the line, which has been under S

thought it was an untapped, amazing brand,” “nobody needs another dumb seersucker development since november 2010. Photo said Joseph Abboud, hMX’s creative direc- suit.” Jackets will retail for $695, suits for “this is for the guy tor. “it says everything about the resort, sum- $995, and there will be woven shirts in lin- who stood in line to Branscum said the Scott Branscum, right, mer lifestyle. But in the last 20 or 30 years, it ens and cottons to complement the clothing. buy the first iPhone for Massif Collection will is the head designer. had become just another label.” the first major retailer to sign on is $400 or spends $600 on a include a tailored soft- Abboud said Palm Beach created a neiman Marcus, which has agreed to launch driver,” Branscum said. shell with a suggested lightweight wool summer suit wrapped in the line in 24 doors for spring, Williams said. “he likes good stuff and retail price of $350 to rayon in 1914, and the line then expanded the collection will also be targeted to select wants performance.” $450; a five-button wool into linen, seersucker and khakis — “great high-end specialty stores that can “bring back Massif was founded blazer for $350 to $450; seasonal looks.” the integrity of the brand,” Abboud said. in 1999 by two entrepre- tactical sweaters in But, according to hMX’s chief executive Williams said future opportunities in- neurs whose adventures merino wool and nylon officer, Doug Williams, the brand lost its DnA clude expanding Palm Beach into sports- included rock climbing for $150 to $250; yarn- under the company’s prior management and wear. “Our competitive advantage with our and rescue missions. dyed shirts for $120 to was positioned as a moderate suit label pri- factories is that we can come up with new the company was ac- $180, and stretch wool marily targeted to the big and tall market. “it fabrics and silhouettes and execute them quired by tactical hold- mid-weight trousers for was one of the jewels that we have that had very quickly,” he said. ings and its private equi- $120 to $180. there will gotten dusty, tired and abused,” he said. “So hMX is majority owned by S. Kumars ty partner, Golden Gate also be moisture-wick- we closed it down for a while. A lot of retail- nationwide ltd. (SKnl), a publicly held Capital, in 2009. ing cashmeres, leather ers were angry about that, but we saw it as a indian company, which bought the assets of “A soldier in Afghan- jackets with stretch gus- bigger opportunity. We had a vision to bring it the former hartmarx Corp. out of bankrupt- istan needs to carry sets and a wool-faced back as a luxury collection.” cy in 2009. Since that time, the company has the specific tools of his dress puffy jacket. Under Abboud’s direction, Palm Beach’s revamped and elevated its company-owned trade,” said co-founder in total, there will be new collection has been positioned as a labels, including hickey Freeman, hart Jeff Roberts. “Ammo, 37 styles for the launch high-end seasonal summer suit collection. it Schaffner Marx, Coppley and Bobby Jones. grenades, maps, note collection, including a pad, tactical light, com- single pant silhouette in bat knife, et cetera. he four colors and fabrics, Man of also needs to look professional and stay and one blazer in four fabric choices. the RupeRT MuRdoch: B- comfortable and effective in a wide range of primary colors will be black, dark navy, char- temperatures and environments — on base, coal, shades of gray, eggplant, dark military THE WEEK (Wendi MuRdoch’S ninjA SkillS: A+) in cities and towns, in the desert, in a heli- olive and dusty blue, he said. copter with the doors off. A businessman is the tagline for the collection will be very similar. he needs to carry the tools of “Clothing for Spies,” and it will make its de- The straw hat with his trade: money, credit cards, smartphone, but at Project in las Vegas in February. The embattled the wide brim keys, knife. he also needs to look appropri- Branscum said the target distribution leader of News showcases his ate and feel comfortable during a commute, for the line will be department stores such adventurous side. at his desk, during meetings, on a flight, on as nordstrom and Dillard’s, as well as a date and at home.” specialty stores. — J.E.P. Corp. should The red striped be hacking dress shirt elongates his frame JA Apparel Said to Favor Licensing Model into Salvatore and enhances the leisure attitude by ViCKi M. yOUnG stumbling block was the Boston factory owned by JA, for which interest has been weak. of the look. Ferragamo’s JOSePh ABBOUD just might get his name- hMX has shown interest in JA before. sake brand back after all, even without a sale Back in January, hMX was taking a look at Too long, and they design studio of JA Apparel Corp. JA’s operations, eyeing the license as li & should be rolled up to JA Apparel’s parent, private equity firm Fung became more focused on buying owner- turn the dress shirt for tips on J.W. Childs, has decided not to sell the com- ship of the Abboud brand. into a sport shirt. pany and instead will pursue a licensing busi- the private equity firm has flirted with how to better ness model, sources said. A spokeswoman for selling the company on and off since 2006, ES Red leather belt the private equity firm declined comment. with the key stumbling block every time being mag channel the adds a hint of color. i WWD reported in June that hMX Group what to do about the Boston factory. What has tty was interested in becoming the tailored cloth- changed over the course of five years is the gE French Riviera Single-pleat summer- ing licensee for JA’ s Joseph Abboud brand, asking price, which had dropped to $85 mil- via

weight pants adds the rg and sources say that hasn’t changed. lion from $100 million-plus in 2006. E bon vivant right texture but are too Should a licensing deal be struck, it And while rumblings in the marketplace would reunite Abboud the designer with had hMX making a bid for JA, sources famil- dark for the ensemble. loomb b lifestyle. / S the Abboud brand that he founded and later iar with the discussions said those reports ll

A comfortable driving E sold. Abboud is now president and chief cre- weren’t true and that hMX never made a E shoe or espadrille would ative director at hMX, which is owned by bid for JA. in the meantime, J . W. Childs had SKnl international. hoped to sell the company and use the pro- have been the appropriate Scott finishing touch. Wearing in June, sale discussions were centered on ceeds to create momentum as it raises money sneakers shows his age. brand management firm iconix Brand Group for its next fund. now the private equity firm Photo by inc., with hMX as a possible licensee. A key might have to rethink its fund-raising strategy.